Barging Burgundy, a chronicle of our lazy adventures

We are Jim and Kathryn of the San Francisco Bay Area embarking on our second canal-barging cruise in France aboard Belmond's Amaryllis in Burgundy from St. Leger to Dijon. As wireless access permits, I'll be posting here updates of our lazy journey through the canals, rivers and vineyards of Burgundy.

Here is the official precis of our week, La Semaine des Grand Crus, http://www.belmond.com/afloat-in-france/holidays/grand_cru

Just now, we are packing up to check out of our fabulous hotel in Paris (http://www.lebristolparis.com/eng/home/) from which we'll be chauffeured to St. Leger for the start of our wine-rich week in Burgundy.

I am looking forward to reading about your barge trip, Octoberkat. We were on a river cruise from Arles to Paris and enjoyed our stops along the way. Especially Beaune, and many vineyard tours. Don't forget the Montrachet..yummy

Also looking forward to reading about your trip. We enjoyed a Lyon to Avignon trip in May but due to high water had to be bused from port to port while the ship sailed to meet us, so I would love to return and actually cruise.

This looks very interesting and I look forward to hearing all about it.

Keith

Yes - most definitely interesting to learn about your second barge cruise. No wonder your experience on a barge with so few people could not compare with luxury lines -- there is definitely no comparison. Please - tell us all about it!

Hello everyone, I fear wireless access and strength of signal (or lack thereof) rendered posting moot along the journey but I'll be making up for it in the days ahead.

Some housekeeping: there were to have been four couples aboard but two cancelled so we were two couples only including us. The other were a physician researcher and his spouse from Birmingham, AL. They were huge wine buffs which, honestly, was a bit tiring as the week wore on but it would be untoward to kavetch over much since, after all, the cruise was focused on the 33 grand crus of Burgundy. Because we were only four guests the barge felt spacious and even more luxurious than promised.

Crew of five: captain, guide/host, chef, housekeeper, matelot.

Our cabin was small but not tiny, the bathroom spacious and well appointed although no stand-alone shower which I prefer.

Salon beautifully furnished, lovely dining room which was used at breakfast as other meals were served on the shaded deck. Coffee at 7:30am and throughout the day, breakfast 8am to 9:30am; lunch 1pm or 2pm depending on excursions; dinner 8pm or later, depending. There was A LOT of wine! Espresso, coffee, cappuccino, canarino available throughout the day as were wine, beer, mineral water, liquor, lemonade, etc.

Small swimming pool on the sun deck, delicious and refreshing as weather was hot!

CD player for music, we enjoyed classical, opera and French Fifties music.

Do they organize the tours for you?

Also have you done a river cruise and if so how does this compare to that in terms of having far less people.

What would you estimate the size of your cabin to be?

Thanks,

Keith

Hello Keith, yes one expedition each day is included and they are fabulous, I'll post more about these in succeeding posts.

Our cabin was the largest at 200 sq.ft. which isn't overly generous but quite good for a 128-foot barge.

Our Amaryllis barge spent a day cruising the Saone River (swans!!!) and the other four days on canals. We've not been on a river-cruise vessel and are not tempted. For us, it's the ocean or canals/rivers on a barge.

12 July 2015, Sunday

At 2:15pm we were fetched from our Paris Hotel (http://www.lebristolparis.com/eng/home/) in a none-too-luxe mini-van and driven to the mooring in St. Leger Sur Dheune in Burgundy to board the Amaryllis, an ultra deluxe barge that lived up to its designation with elan; we arrived at 6pm. Champagne reception with canapés followed by the barge version of muster which consisted of advising life jackets are in the cabin closets, the muster point is the shade deck and canals are mostly shallow enough to walk out although the water is less than salubrious.

Dinner was on deck circa 8pm, hosted by Jackie Morrison of the Drouhin cellars in Beaune. Gracious and brilliant about wine, it was a lively time. Jim and I aren't wine aficionados yet enjoyed Jackie's patter and began to acquire a dangerous modicum of information. Our wines were amazing and plentiful: Corton Charlemagne 2011, Clos de la Roche 2007, Hospice de Beaune Maris-Chambertain 2008, Bonnes Mares 1988, Montrachet Laguiche 2003.

Comestibles:

asparagus and truffle soup

duck breast with braised red cabbage, hazelnut potato croquettes and thyme jus

cheese selection

rhubarb and custard crumble

Then to bed as it was late and we were tired. Next up: Monday in Burgundy!

Correction: upon reviewing barge stats, I learned our cabin was 280sqft.

Your trip sounds lovely OctoberKat. Did you enjoy Beaune? I found it very charming and the wines in Burgundy are very addicting. Your cabin is quite sizable compared to most river cruise lines. We have scheduled a river cruise on Tauck for Sping 2016 (Danube Budapest to Prague) and the suite is 300 sq. ft. (large by river cruise standards.)

I have taken 2 river cruises and except for the itinerary and tours, we prefer Ocean cruising. The dining issue is a real problem and they herd together and it is a very drawn out experience..too long UGH! I believe Tauck is different and hope their reviews hold true.

Enjoy and keep us updated. thank you.

Thank you, October Kat, for taking us along on your Barge. :D

I was in the U.S. Navy Reserve for 20 years, although I was Air, not ships. But, I have never heard of a matelot. What is that? What do they do? :confused:

Donna

Matelot = sailor, deckhand

OctoberKat, enjoying your report.

Would you do this one again? In other words if you could do this one again would you have booked it in the first place?

Also, did the barge company make the arrangements for you to get from hotel to the barge?

Thanks so much.

Keith

OctoberKat, enjoying your report.

 

Would you do this one again? In other words if you could do this one again would you have booked it in the first place?

 

Also, did the barge company make the arrangements for you to get from hotel to the barge?

 

Thanks so much.

 

Keith

Yes, Keith, we'd do it again in a nano second. So quietly peaceful, poshly comfortable, all wants, needs, desires met. The wine focus was delicious fun but we aren't serious aficionados so, having experienced that part of the cruise, would not be motivated to choose the wine program again.

Yes, the barge handled all the transfers, picking up and dropping off in Paris hotel lobby. A well-equipped passenger van accompanies the barge and meets up with it at every moorage and provides transportation for the daily excursions (and crew use it for shopping and schlepping).

Thanks so much OctoberKat. This is something we will look at.

Keith

Keith, we thought the itinerary in the Loire aboard Renaissance (also ultra deluxe and comfortable with larger cabins) more delightful than Burgundy which had a fair amount of industrial sites canal side. The Loire countryside is drop-dead lovely and bucolic. Many chateaux to admire from the canal and also to tour.

http://www.gobarging.com/renaissance-barge

Octoberkat, you have me doing research now on the Bordeaux region. I have been to Alsace and Burgundy and enjoyed immensely. Have you been to Bordeaux or know of anyone who experienced this on a luxury barge? Although, not a wine aficiando, we do enjoy the learning and tasting experience along with the history and architecture of the areas we have been to.

Also, did you feel a bit trapped in close quarters when it came to privacy and having to make small talk with others on board either of your barge cruises? My biggest concern, actually. We enjoy tours but also love our private time and on your own stuff, too.

P.S.....so nice to read your review pros and cons without the regular backlash you receive...HA!

Octoberkat, you have me doing research now on the Bordeaux region. I have been to Alsace and Burgundy and enjoyed immensely. Have you been to Bordeaux or know of anyone who experienced this on a luxury barge? Although, not a wine aficiando, we do enjoy the learning and tasting experience along with the history and architecture of the areas we have been to.

Also, did you feel a bit trapped in close quarters when it came to privacy and having to make small talk with others on board either of your barge cruises? My biggest concern, actually. We enjoy tours but also love our private time and on your own stuff, too.

Hello, portofinoitaly, good to "see" you here. We've not barged Bordeaux yet but we, too, are thinking of it. I think our next barge trip, however, may be Holland / Belgium (including Bruges) aboard La Nouvelle Etoile Which is also in the ultra deluxe class.

A word about ultra deluxe class: a necessity for us as the furnishings and cabins are larger and more luxurious. Pick-up and drop-off are included. Cuisine, wine and cheeses are marvelous. And, passenger capacity usually is eight, sometimes six. Would never want to barge with more than eight passengers. Crew usually is five or six.

We don't find the barge cramped, nor do we feel as if we are sitting in others' laps. There are three areas onboard for hanging out: sun deck, shade deck and lounge which offers generous seating options. Easy to find a quiet nook. In addition, people are mostly considerate, respectfully friendly. I advise avoiding conversations about politics (which can kill a fine ambiance faster than a cyanide pill).

http://www.lanouvelleetoile.com

http://www.gobarging.com/la-nouvelle-etoile-classic-1-itinerary

Thanks for responding Octoberkat..Yikes! Politics or religion and free pouring wine..LOL!

You have piqued my interest on this type of travel because I did not think I could get DH back on a river cruise (although we are trying Tauck for Danube and I told him it was supposed to be so much better ;-) Hope so!

I will be looking into 2017 trips because 2016 is already full for us. We have Scotland and Wales left to see and possibly the Arctic because I do not do 3rd world countries (no India and Africa or shots). Time to rethink different itineraries and style of travel and Bordeaux by barge is quite appealing. Enjoying your review, thank you.

Keith, we thought the itinerary in the Loire aboard Renaissance (also ultra deluxe and comfortable with larger cabins) more delightful than Burgundy which had a fair amount of industrial sites canal side. The Loire countryside is drop-dead lovely and bucolic. Many chateaux to admire from the canal and also to tour.

 

http://www.gobarging.com/renaissance-barge

OctoberKat, thank you so very much for this information.

Keith

13th July, Monday

Many, many locks today. Richard the captain and Paul the matelot worked themselves even skinnier. Lunch was a generous spread of charcuterie, breads, cheeses and green salads. The day's expedition was a drive through the countryside to the Chateau de Chamirey for a personal vine tour followed by a tasting of the domaine's wines. Dinner back onboard hosted by Pascal Wagner, a delightful and expressive wine raconteur and expert in Burgundies.

Canal sides were largely tree shaded with sycamore (some pollarded) and willows, both weeping and silver-leaved. Beautiful, peaceful, i swear we slipped out of time.

Dinner:

Cannelloni of crab and cucumber with gazpacho jelly and avocado puree

Loin of lamb with French-style peas, potato puree, mint hollandaise and rosemary jus

Cheeses

Dark chocolate fondant with raspberry sorbet

Wines:

Chevalier-Montrachet 2011 Domain Bouchard Pere et Fils

Criots-Batard Montrachet 2013 Domaine Fontaine Gahnard

Clos des Lambrays 2011 Domaine des Lambrays

Clos St. Denis 2011 Domaine Coquard Loison Flerot

Grands Echereaux 2009 Domaine Georges Noellat

Echereaux 2012 Domaine Francois Confuron Gindre

P.S.....so nice to read your review pros and cons without the regular backlash you receive...HA!

What backlash are you referring to? It's so nice to hear about the type of cruising that a person likes - especially after hearing what they find disappointing about luxury cruising. This type of cruising sounds more luxurious than being on a ship with hundreds of people, however, one must enjoy being with a very small group of passengers.

Keith, if you and Anne Marie try barge cruising, hope you will do a review. It certainly would be different that the cruising on Crystal! Have a great time on your Bonny Isles Cruise:)

14th July, Tuesday, Bastille Day

Moored all day at the village of Fragnes; locks closed for the Bastille holiday. Much fireworks noise last night! Tied up next to a lovely little country church which, sadly, was locked but the surrounding churchyard was open providing an interesting ramble through graves and gardens.

Lunch was taken in Puligny Montrachet at the Table d'Olivier, the only restaurant open in that village. Scenic restaurant located on the town square, it offers a set lunch menu together with a tasting of 6 (SIX!) wines, hic. Gorgeous village, would have liked more time to walk about. Instead we hied ourselves off to the vinyards of Montrachet where the inestimable Pascal Wagner joined us again for a brief talk about climat and terroir.

Dinner:

Have lost menu but to the best of my recollection the entre was rabbit. Accompanying Grand Crus were Corton, La Grande Rue, La Romanee, Charmes-Chambertin, and Griotte-Chambertin.

All quiet on the canal tonight since the locals trooped over to the fair-sized town of Charlon-sur-Saone for the community fireworks show.