The Brahmaputra

We have been to India three times and are investigating a river cruise to avoid the long drives and repeated unpacking we have experienced before.

Someone has suggested The Brahmaputra on the Mahabaahu. I looked at their web site and there is a video that suggests the river is more akin to a delta. Another CC poster has written "The Mekong teems with river traffic and is an important trade route. It is lined by villages, towns and cities. And while it can be very wide, it pales in comparison to the Brahmaputra. The Brahmaputra is brooding and remote, and during the monsoon can expand in width from up to 5 kilometers to more than 20 kilometers. And while it is not lined by villages (they are generally about a 15-30 minute walk from the river banks) one has the chance to see wild animals such as herds - or single bull - elephants, prolific birdlife - while lucky passengers have seen tigers prowling the banks."

I am afraid that puts me off the Brahmaputra as my idea of a river cruise is having two nearby shorelines - and a few waterfront places to explore.

Has anyone around here experience of river cruising in India and/or comments about the Brahmaputra?

Tony

We have been to India three times and are investigating a river cruise to avoid the long drives and repeated unpacking we have experienced before.

 

Someone has suggested The Brahmaputra on the Mahabaahu. I looked at their web site and there is a video that suggests the river is more akin to a delta. Another CC poster has written "The Mekong teems with river traffic and is an important trade route. It is lined by villages, towns and cities. And while it can be very wide, it pales in comparison to the Brahmaputra. The Brahmaputra is brooding and remote, and during the monsoon can expand in width from up to 5 kilometers to more than 20 kilometers. And while it is not lined by villages (they are generally about a 15-30 minute walk from the river banks) one has the chance to see wild animals such as herds - or single bull - elephants, prolific birdlife - while lucky passengers have seen tigers prowling the banks."

 

I am afraid that puts me off the Brahmaputra as my idea of a river cruise is having two nearby shorelines - and a few waterfront places to explore.

 

Has anyone around here experience of river cruising in India and/or comments about the Brahmaputra?

 

Tony

Uniworld is starting an itinerary in India in January. It will be a new ship and the itinerary looks great. I've been to India as well and am looking seriously at this for the same reasons you stated. I have not looked at the Brahmaputra but will now for comparison

Thank you.

Let me know what you think. Particularly about that river.

Tony

Not sure if you have looked on the Fodors/Asia travel forums. If you do a search for Brahmaputra a few reviews appear along with links to blogs. They are several years old - but I assume not much may have changed.

Just returned exceptional cruise! River itinerary is busy but so organized that you see a wide variety of villages, tea plantations and wildlife parks. To be in such a remote area of India with such a luxurious ship made the trip! The scenery except for 1 day was amazing. We had a herd (8) elephants swim across the river in front of the boat and while on elephant safari saw 9 rhino along with other big game (day prior someone saw tiger)

I would strongly recommend!

Wow.

That is pretty positive.

Good to get an up to date reply.

Did you get to see many villages?

Tony

We saw 2 villages that had not seen many westerns which was fun. Along with 3 other stops during the cruise at local food markets that were wonderful. The locals enjoyed us being there!

Strongly recommend the MV MAHAABAHU

Thanks for that.

Off on the SilverSeas Whisper on Tuesday.

Will rejoin the thread in a couple of weeks.

Tony

Completely DISAGREE with Safari111! Just returned from a week on this trip. Ship was awful, way overpriced for the experience. Think floating "Marigold Hotel." (Without the joys and humor of Judi Dench and Maggie Smith.) So disappointing on so many levels. There is a reason why there is not much feedback anywhere on the internet about this cruise. IF you are looking for tiny poorly built and poorly maintained cabins, thin walls so you are serenaded by your neighbor's snoring and toilet flushing, mediocre and overly spicy food, viewing marginal temples, sad villages, and experiencing elephants being abused, then you might want to go. Tigers???? HA!!!! Practically a myth there....

Exorbitant rates and large tips expected, since they don't pay the hard working staff much. The co-owner "manager" has no experience running an operation like this, and oddly doubles as the masseuse and manicurist on board, charging western prices. Strongly suggest you WAIT for a truly professionally managed excursion like you mentioned run by Uniworld.

Completely DISAGREE with Safari111! Just returned from a week on this trip. Ship was awful, way overpriced for the experience. Think floating "Marigold Hotel." (Without the joys and humor of Judi Dench and Maggie Smith.) So disappointing on so many levels. There is a reason why there is not much feedback anywhere on the internet about this cruise. IF you are looking for tiny poorly built and poorly maintained cabins, thin walls so you are serenaded by your neighbor's snoring and toilet flushing, mediocre and overly spicy food, viewing marginal temples, sad villages, and experiencing elephants being abused, then you might want to go. Tigers???? HA!!!! Practically a myth there....

Exorbitant rates and large tips expected, since they don't pay the hard working staff much. The co-owner "manager" has no experience running an operation like this, and oddly doubles as the masseuse and manicurist on board, charging western prices. Strongly suggest you WAIT for a truly professionally managed excursion like you mentioned run by Uniworld.

Wow, thanks for the feedback. I wouldn't want to visit anywhere that abused elephants. That sucks it was so horrible.

We saw 2 villages that had not seen many westerns which was fun. Along with 3 other stops during the cruise at local food markets that were wonderful. The locals enjoyed us being there!

Strongly recommend the MV MAHAABAHU

For comparison, on what other cruises and ships have you sailed?

For comparison, on what other cruises and ships have you sailed?

According to his profile, Safari111 has sailed on upscale and luxury ocean lines.

Ciciabella has a similar cruise background. That assessment of a river ship is the widest discrepancy I have ever seen between cruisers of similar experience. I hope they will come back to this thread.

Looks like I may have started a fire storm! Wow. This trip is billed as a "luxury cruise' so my expectations were high, considering the price of the experience. I think it is mis-labeled as such, and would not have been as disappointed if it were called a "nature experience" or "eco-tour" though I doubt I would have wanted to go if I thought that. My husband was (-surprisingly!-) not as critical about the trip as I was, since he is highly cost conscious. I would not be AS disappointed if we had paid half as much, though I cannot recommend the trip as anything resembling "luxury." Yes, they provided a "pool", as usual too small to swim in and too noisy/smelly with the engine to sit by, an exercise bike and a couple sets of hand weights were the "gym", a "spa" (NOT!), a lounge, cocktail hours. A superb naturalist who gave informative talks. And a very pleasant rooftop viewing area, where tea was served some afternoons. Perhaps if you were much younger and far less experienced, you might be more accepting. The guests on our cruise were all over 60, from different countries, all well traveled. None were "ecstatic" about the experience, though some liked it "more" than others. My standards must be too high, or I have just seen too much.

To be fair, Assam is REMOTE and has rather basic infrastructure. Tourism is just beginning there; few Western style hotels though a few comfortable "resorts" near the Kazaringa Park, bad roads made worse by rain so traveling by car is a challenge. Other than the Park, there were a few excursions to very poor villages as mentioned. Pretty weavings by the locals were a highlight, as well as several dance performances. Were the temples "particularly" interesting? Not compared with many others in Asia. There wasn't much that was that great. There are SO many places that are MUCH better!

Having traveled extensively in India as well as other developing Asian countries I expect to see dirt, garbage, few Western style toilets, impoverished children, malnourished animals. Assam is no exception. There isn't much happening here, very quiet life on the river. Occasional fishing boat goes by. Days of the same landscape get a bit monotonous.

I keep coming back to the question "was it worth it?" We met some nice people. Had a relaxing time. Not terribly interesting culture, if you have seen much of Asia and India. It is a LONG way to go, from Calcutta or from Delhi. Many places that are better, many ships so MUCH nicer.

Thank you very much for your explanation. I can see the reasons for your assessment.

For comparison, on what other cruises and ships have you sailed?

River-4AMA, 1 Uniworld, 1 Pandaw plus Silverseas, Seabourn, Azamara, Oceania, Windstar on the ocean

I feel my review was impugned and wanted to amplify: 1) cost was $200 usd p/day p/p +usuals i.e.: gratuities $10 p/p p/day for the crew and $5 p/p/day for the naturalist guide (similar to AMA)...Dec. is off season 2) I like Indian food and thought the Indian dishes served were wonderful 3) Kamakhya temple was wonderful..unfortunately Ciaciabella's Air India flt was late so they missed out seeing it on the 1st day 4) yes Assam region is remote but I knew that from the being and wasn't expecting the Brahmaputra cruise to be anything like the Rhine or Danube. 5) Tiger sightings are very rare but I saw eles,rhino, buffalo, otter, dolphin and lots of cool birds including eagles.

The crew was excellent and I felt that they were always looking out for the pax safety and comfort! Like most reviews, many things are subjective....ie AMA Mekong was 120 pax, Pandaw was 8 pax, and MV Mahaabahu was 12 pax. The other 2 ships (saw one) aren't even close to the MV's category, so if you want an India rivr trip I still strongly recommend the MV Mahaabahu!

I've been looking at this one so thanks for the varied input from both perspectives.

I think on balance it is best to view this as an expedition type holiday rather than a 'luxury cruise'.

Having viewed the video available it is clear the ship is perfectly adequate, but by no means luxurious.

I would be interested in more feedback on the 'abuse' of the elephants...

I am always conscious when traveling that we have to be careful in how we interpret what we see. Working animals are not going to look like the well fed zoo examples we are more used to seeing and so I would wish to avoid supporting cruelty of course, but I'm not going to be holding the locals to the same standards as we would at home, so any further input to help define the abuse would be helpful...

This is getting "interesting":confused::rolleyes: Safari111 assumes to know my identity, which is rather unsettling. (Or perhaps they work for the cruise company?) I frankly don't think my opinion would have changed with the viewing of the first "wonderful" temple as mentioned. Clearly everyone sees their own side of the "elephant."

At the price point Safari111 quoted of $200 US pp, that was INDEED a "bargain" and I would not be as harsh if I had paid that. If you look at the MV Mahabaahu website you will see that the prices listed for December are NOW recently discounted by 40%. (Too bad we hadn't seen that offer when we booked, months in advance.) There are also considerably lower rates for residents of India. However the regular prices start at $375pp.

We (foolishly, I admit) paid up for a "suite" which wasn't much bigger than the tiny cabins, with or without balcony. Not worth the additional cost, considering the shoddy workmanship, very basic furnishings and "worn" fixtures and linens. Based on the price WE paid for this category, I do not feel the experience was worth it.

My contention, and debate, is that this is not a "luxury cruise." I think it is mis-labeled and would be perfectly acceptable as an "adventure cruise" for $200pp. As a comparison, the Oberoi Kerala backwater cruise is currently quoted at $350pp per night, though only for 3 nights max. THAT is a true 5-star luxury experience and impeccable in every way. Both are small ships, both Indian made and owned. Granted this is comparing apples and oranges, but with the Oberoi ship definitely we received high value and deluxe amenities for the price.

ALSO there is the new Haimark "Ganges Explorer." (Wish we had done that instead! Top price for that is approx $525pp/per day.) Having traveled in India and Asia extensively, I have experienced exquisite luxury, far beyond what is available in most destinations in the world. All I am saying is that this cruise was NOT "luxury."

In response to Mark T, you are fair in pointing out local habits and conditions regarding "service animals." Still, it is ignorance, desperation and greed that promote this miserable type of attraction in very poor countries.

Prior to booking this trip, I witnessed elephants being beaten and chained at a "sanctuary" in Sri Lanka. The local guide there apologized for bringing us, and expressed his dismay that tourism continues to support the place.

Thus sensitized, I inquired to the Far Horizons tour agency about the "elephant safari" at Kazaringa. I specifically wanted to know how the elephants are treated. The agency obviously turns a blind eye to please their guests. This is BIG business.

I should have known better. These domesticated animals are beaten for tourists' naive pleasure and entertainment, forced to carry 600-700 lbs at a time with a metal contraption that digs into their backs, to hold the riders. The "mahout" who led our elephant repeatedly hit her with a hooked iron prod. Babies followed their mothers on each excursion into the brush at dawn, trying to keep up. When we returned to the loading area, there was another large group waiting to board. I don't know how many times they do this each day, but it is a huge attraction there.

The whole excursion made me sick to my stomach with shame. Our naturalist later confessed to me privately that the animals are horribly mistreated, and he suggested I speak to the owners of the company. (Damn little good that would do.) If you would like to know more, try googling "mistreatment of elephants in Asia."

 

I should have known better. These domesticated animals are beaten for tourists' naive pleasure and entertainment, forced to carry 600-700 lbs at a time with a metal contraption that digs into their backs, to hold the riders. The "mahout" who led our elephant repeatedly hit her with a hooked iron prod. Babies followed their mothers on each excursion into the brush at dawn, trying to keep up. When we returned to the loading area, there was another large group waiting to board. I don't know how many times they do this each day, but it is a huge attraction there.

This paragraph alone will prevent me from EVER going to India! Not that I had current plans to go, but now it's forever deleted from my bucket list. :mad:

This paragraph alone will prevent me from EVER going to India! Not that I had current plans to go, but now it's forever deleted from my bucket list. :mad:

I wouldn't write off the entire country on the back of this particular incident of mistreatment.

It would be like refusing to go to the USA due to the rodeos or Austria due to the methods used by the Spanish Riding School...

Fresh home from our two week cruise on the SilverSeas Whisper. Now that is luxury!

I had my doubts about the vessel being used for the Brahmaputra - and they have not been eased by some of the posts made whilst we were away.

I'll see what I can dig out with regard to that Ganges cruise mentioned a few posts ago. It seems to have more potential.

Thanks for all the comments and advice.

With regard to elephants we have been to several locations in India where they are used and never seen any of the cruelty mentioned. But clearly I cannot claim that it never happens simply because I have not see it.

It is easy to write off countries on hearsay about one situation. On the Whisper I met an American couple who will never go to Europe now 'because of the shooting in Paris'. I tried to reassure them but my words fell on stony ground.

Tony

Fresh home from our two week cruise on the SilverSeas Whisper. Now that is luxury!

 

I had my doubts about the vessel being used for the Brahmaputra - and they have not been eased by some of the posts made whilst we were away.

 

I'll see what I can dig out with regard to that Ganges cruise mentioned a few posts ago. It seems to have more potential.

 

Thanks for all the comments and advice.

 

With regard to elephants we have been to several locations in India where they are used and never seen any of the cruelty mentioned. But clearly I cannot claim that it never happens simply because I have not see it.

 

It is easy to write off countries on hearsay about one situation. On the Whisper I met an American couple who will never go to Europe now 'because of the shooting in Paris'. I tried to reassure them but my words fell on stony ground.

 

Tony

Good point....I'm the one who won't go due to the elephants...in all fairness, when we did Black Sea one of our excursions was to see the puzsta horse show, which I almost cancelled (excursion) but I wanted to see the area so we went. While the horse show was fair at best, there was no sign of the animals being mistreated and in fact the barn was open for us to visit at will, which I think was done to show that not ALL the horses are poorly cared for. I'd love to see some pictures, Tony. :)

Hi, I went on the MV Mahabaahu in Feb 2015..

It was a 7 night cruise combined with a 6 night golden Triangle land trip..We had never been to India before and were abit tentative but it was a fantastic trip , with the cruise being the absolute Highlight..

This is a small boat that only had 26 passengers when we went ,and was a newish venture for the company.. It had quite a few travel writers in board which was interesting.

We opted for a balcony room (110) and this one was configured differently from the other balcony rooms and seemed much roomier.. It had a bigger balcony and was just great..

The food was mostly indian with enough to satisfy those who wanted western food..but as we had not experienced Indian food much before, we loved it..

We saw both sides of the river all the time , and it was a true wonder to watch the few people working along side the rivers as we passed and it obviously was a new thing to them as you could see people running for hundreds of metres along the river just to see us and wave.

We could only sail during the day and tethered just to the sandbank every night. So we would just all wander off and check out the surrounds while the staff would set up a bar/BBQ on the sand.. I can't tell you how great this was..

We stopped every day at villages, jute factories, animal sanctuaries, silk weaving villages, schools, etc.. very diverse.. We had local concerts and little plays..

The highlight was the elephant rides to see the rhino's and tigers ( who were close but we couldn't see) , deer, birds etc..

Once of twice at night , locals would glide in on their tiny boats to sell fish to the chef and just to see the strange people ( us)

The staff were amazing..Anything you wanted!

So thoughtful ..We had a full time conservationalist , historian aboard and he was brimming with enthusiasm about the country , animals and history..

There were talks given during the day if you were interested.. A small spa downstairs and a couple of bars..

I would thoroughly recommend this trip to all..

K