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West African Ports


johncb7
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This autumn we will be visiting a number of West African ports including - Dakar, Banjul, Abidjian, Takoradi, Lomo, Sao Tome and Walvis Bay. Whilst we will take a complimentary ships tour in each port there will be time either before or after the tour to have some free time. Can anyone advise me whether it is practical and safe to wander ashore from the ship to local sights or do ships dock too far 'out of town.' Thank you.

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West African Ports

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This autumn we will be visiting a number of West African ports including - Dakar, Banjul, Abidjian, Takoradi, Lomo, Sao Tome and Walvis Bay. Whilst we will take a complimentary ships tour in each port there will be time either before or after the tour to have some free time. Can anyone advise me whether it is practical and safe to wander ashore from the ship to local sights or do ships dock too far 'out of town.' Thank you.

 

Hi Johncb7,

Your cruise sounds wonderful and full of new, exciting and different destinations. I can perhaps help you with some of the ports as we have visited Dakar, Banjul, Sao Tome and Walvis Bay so below are extracts from my diaries concerning these places.

I am sure that you are aware that Dakar, Banjul and Sao Tome are all ‘developing countries’ and, by our standards, very poor so be prepared to have a less sophisticated experience. Namibia is much more prosperous.

 

We visited Dakar and Banjul in 2014 on a Fred Olsen Cruise and here is what I wrote:

 

CURRENCY.

Senegal - Senegal Francs

Gambia - Delasis

Most vendors and some shops will take € and US$. They will accept Euro coins but you may be asked to swap their Euro coins for notes (5€ Is the lowest denomination note) as it is difficult to change coins at the bank.

Many vendors have no real concept of the exchange rates for their local currency so it makes sense to check the rates on board so you know what you are bargaining for. I ask prices in local currency firs before swapping to €s or US$

 

 

DAKAR SENEGAL

docked at 07.30

Ship cleared at 08.25

Guests on board 19.15

Ship departs at 20.00

Ships tours meet in either Neptune or Coral lounges - details in previous evening's 'Daily Times'

1st tour meets at 07.55

City centre is approx 1.5km from dock

Shuttle bus runs from 09.15 to 17.30 on a continuous loop - £5pp tickets from reception. Unlimited use

Huge industrial port

Taxis on dock side near gangway

Small souvenir market on dock side. Need to haggle.

Currency is CFA (Senegalese Franc.) € and US$ are widely accepted in souvenir shops

Language is French.

WARNINGS

Medical, advice is to wear trousers, socks and long sleeved tops + insect repellent and not to buy water from street vendors.

danger of pick pockets so keep valuables well guarded

You will be hassled by beggars and traders.

The Senegal post office had a small stall selling cards and stamps just inside the ship by the gangway. Postcards €1 for 2 cards. Stamps were €2 and the gentleman will post them.

 

MY TOUR -SIGHTSEEING TOUR OF DAKAR (4hrs) £40pp

Met in Neptune Lounge at 13.40

On the bus at 14.00.

Bus was old but had working air conditioning.

Microphone didn't work so guide used a megaphone!

Dakar is a big bustling busy city but relatively poor by Western European standards.

Road surfaces are poor so ride was bumpy.

We were shown the best that Dakar has to offer which, again, is not a lot if compared with some other countries.

There were a couple of photo stops and there were souvenir sellers but they seemed quite respectful.

There was a 40 minute stop at a restaurant where there was the opportunity to watch the 'sand painting' artist and purchase pictures.

The other stops (10 mins each) were at the Presidential Palace and the Monument of the African Renaissance (a huge statue at the top of one of the only 2 hills in Dakar)

A beer/soft drink was included.

There were toilets.

The tour included driving past the palace, through the University grounds, through the street market, past the cathedral and mosque, along past Independence Square and en along the Cornish to see the coastline,

Couldn't go to the market as there was nowhere to park so back to the ship at 17.30.

There was a FO crew member with us throughout.

 

Was it worth it? That's a difficult question to answer but, on reflection, I would say yes because I think many people would find it quite intimidating to walk round the city centre. Don't get me wrong, the people seemed polite and pleasant but the roads were extremely busy and the pavements were really crowded. There didn't appear to be many of the types of shops that we are used to either. I also think you would have needed to have done a lot of research to know the best places to visit. I'm not sure how much English the taxi drivers would speak.

 

MY DH'S TOUR - SALOUM ISLANDS (8hrs)

Met in Neptune Lounge at 07.50

Off ship at 8.20

Bus was air conditioned.

2 guides that took turns to give information. Both spoke good English.

2.5 hour drive to the river through interesting countryside ....... Villages, farm land and forested areas.

10 min toilet stop at petrol station.....squat plate toilets

Bumpy ride once off the main road.

Small canoe type boat which held approx 14 passengers.

Had to climb in and out without aid from the beach....no steps etc .boat ride was approx 45mins

There was a choice of riding to the village by cart or doing a10 min walk.

Lunch was at the Island Eco-lodge.

Spring rolls, fish in light curry sauce, rice, salad and crepes.

Given a bottle of water at lunch.

This was followed by some free time.

There was a 50 minute ride to the 'shell village' where a local guide explained the history of the area.

Left the village at 16.45

Returned to the ship by a different route for part of the journey.

Back on board at 19.00

My DH said that he thoroughly enjoyed the tour as it gave him an inside into the history and geography of Senegal.

 

 

BANJUL, GAMBIA. GENERAL INFORMATION

docked just after 08.00

Cleared for disembarkation at 08.40

All aboard 17.15

Departure 18.00

Industrial port but nice views across to small beach and local small ferries

Approx 2 km into town centre.

Banjul could be even more of a culture shock than Dakar.

The currency is the Dalasis.....approx 63=£1

Most vendors accept € and US$ but you need to haggle....it's expected.

I didn't see any taxis on the dock side but they may have been hidden by the tour busses. There were a few taxis at the port gate 400m from the ship

There was 1 person holding up a passenger's name so I assume that was for a pre-arranged private tour.

IMHO walking into town would be a real challenge to the senses and sensibilities of someone who is used to more sophisticated urban surroundings.

I spoke to a couple who walked in to town and they were approached by several locals who offered to show them the sights. They said that they should have negotiated a price immediately with one of them which may have prevented the pestering.

There didn't seem to be a lot to see in the town centre.

 

OUR TOUR -'LAZY DAY CRUISE'

Met in Neptune Lounge at 08.30

Coach had air con.

Guide spoke good English and had a sense of humour

Ride was 30 mins

Drove through the centre of Banjul and then through the countryside to the river dock.

Short walk over rough ground to the jetties to board the boats,

A bit tricky to get on but plenty of helping hands.

Approx 20 passengers per boat and 5 crew including the guide.

Top deck is open with some garden chairs and lounging mats. There is a small covered area.

Downstairs has bench seats around the exterior sides of the boat with some cushions.

There is a small kitchen.

The toilet is a proper flushing one and there was toilet paper + a wash basin with soap.

cups of tea/coffee + 1 beer or 1soft drink we're complimentary. There was also a complementary glass of sparkling wine or orange juice at lunch.

Some boats had sets of binoculars and bird books for passenger use (ours didn't which was annoying as we could have brought our own)

Lunch consisted of shepherd’s pie, fish, salad, rice, French bread and fresh fruit ( mango, oranges and bananas)

We sailed in a loose convoy along the river. It was lined with just mangrove trees so the scenery was rather monotonous. There were several species of birds to spot including storks, kingfishers, ibis, bee eaters and rollers but not much else.

Our boat did stop in mid river for 30 mins so people could swim but the ladder was a bit rickety. Some boats pulled onto a beach so people could paddle or walk.

 

We visited Walvis Bay and Sao Tome in May 2015 on a Princess cruise

 

Walvis Bay, Namibia. WALVIS BAY WILD LIFE CRUISE.

A.M. Thick fog and cold early on. Some sunny periods by late morning but cold on the water.

P.M. Sunny but with a cool wind. Warm in sheltered areas.

Sea conditions: millpond calm.

 

Our tour group's meeting time was 08.00 in the Caberet lounge so we were going to have a bit of a lie-in but I woke up at 05.45 and decided to have my shower and go for breakfast early so I could watch the sail-in. Unfortunately, it was too foggy to see anything!

 

THE WALVIS BAY WILD LIFE CRUISE.

We left the ship at 08.15 by coach for the 10-minute drive to the boat dock and this is where my heart sank as it was right in the middle of the fish processing area and so the smell was awful. There were clean toilets and a tiny office area with a seat but that was about it.

The boats were small, semi-covered, fast game fishing style vessels which held 10/15 passengers.

There was no jetty so the tour boat firm had a narrow, extendable walk-way out from the mud flats and there were people to help you move along it.

 

Once on board our pilot and guide, Ruen (he had a great sense of humour) showed us that there was a toilet on board (small but adequate) and explained the safety rules before we set off across the bay.

 

This was where things improved and the fun began. Ruen stopped the boat in several places and we got very 'up close and personal' with pelicans, seals, dolphins and flamingos as well as many other sea birds and the sand dunes along the Namibian coast.

At times, the boat went very fast so it was a bumpy ride and sometimes I had to cling very tightly to the rail to stop myself bouncing off my seat but it was so exciting and exhilarating!

 

Ruen stopped the boat for 30 minutes by a sandbar and served sparkling wine, freshly shucked oysters and a variety of nibbles. Soft drinks and beer were offered throughout the trip.

 

We saw a lot and learned a lot so, despite the unpromising start we all had a great time. Hopefully, in years to come, the company will build a proper floating dock away from the fish processing plant and then the whole experience will be as great as the middle bit!

 

We were very glad that we had our fleeces and waterproof coats as it was very cold when we were moving and the spray was splashing over the sides.

 

It was a wonderful trip and well worth the money although I know a lot of people complained about the dock area.

 

A really great day.

 

WALVIS BAY.

The port is huge and very industrial.

There was a free shuttle to the port gate where there was a small craft market.

There were taxis available on the dock.

The town is larger and seems more prosperous than Luderitz with wide streets and good quality, modern housing.

The town centre is a good 20-minutes’ walk from the port gate.

There are a couple of shopping malls and supermarkets.

The majority of shops are closed on Saturday afternoon and all day on Sunday.

There is a large lagoon just outside the town with a pleasant promenade.

 

SAO TOME. Tender port.

A.M. Sunny, hot and humid.

P.M. Very, very hot and humid with cloudy intervals and quite a strong breeze.

Sea conditions: choppy on the tenders.

 

We got up early and got breakfast at 07.30 after coffee for Jim in bed and me on the balcony. It was a lovely 'sail-in' to São Tomé with lots of tiny fishing boat bobbing about on a turquoise calm sea and the volcanic peaks of the island as a backdrop.

As we got closer we could see some nice looking hotels and lush vegetation.

 

SAO TOMÉ

This was the first time a Princess ship had been to São Tomé and only the 2nd cruise ship ever so it was a bit chaotic to disembark.

It was a tender port so Jim went downstairs 08.30 to get in the queue for tickets. They started letting people into the lounge at 09.00 and we got tickets 29&30 but unfortunately there were over 300 elite passengers who had priority so we were way down the list.

The first tender was called at 09.45 and we left at 10.00 on the third one......not too bad!

The ride took just less than 10 minutes.

The dock was small and industrial.

There were toilet facilities in the terminal building.

Our passports were collected by the authorities to be stamped with the tourist visa and we collected them on the ship the following day.

The visa charge was added to our account........?

 

Once outside the terminal building there were several mini buses that had been pre-booked for private tours. There were several taxis of different sizes for hire.

Very little English was spoken.

Euros were widely accepted, US$ less so. There was no option to use credit/debit cards for purchases.

We negotiated a 5 hour round the island taxi tour for four people (Terry and Kerrie joined us) for €100.

The cab was old and the driver was young but we got round safely......everyone seems to drive like maniacs and the roads are pothole filled so it was quite a hair-raising experience.

The island population is mainly very poor by our standards but there was no hassle to buy souvenirs and sellers were few and far between.

The island really isn't geared up for tourism.

The town of Tomé is small and has a distinct Portuguese colonial feel but the buildings are shabby and in need of repair.

 

Our tour took us through the town where we saw the church and the market. We then drove high into the interior with its lush tropical vegetation and winding, and sometimes unpaved, roads to a small village where there was ‘The Museum of Coffee Bean Production’.

It was €2pp for the entry fee and that included a small cup of very strong but delicious local coffee.

I bought some local ground coffee for €3.70 a packet.

There was a clean toilet here.

From there we continued climbing higher until we reached a pretty waterfall and a view point over the whole island.

After that our driver proceeded down the mountain to another couple of churches and a fort where there was a small beach.

 

By this time, Kerry, Terry and I were feeling as if we had seen enough so the driver dropped us off back at the port and took Jim into town. Jim found a large supermarket and got some packets of nuts for himself and cans of tonic water for me. They would only accept local currency and Euros. There was no credit/debit card facility.

 

 

Another great day with a wonderful experience.

 

I hope you find the information helpful. Have a great time.

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Thank you so much for giving great information on several ports. More than I could have hoped for. I was wondering what time of year you were visiting these areas. We leave Lisbon mid October and arrive in Cape Town mid November. We have organised several trips with RSSC as they are included in the fare. Dakar - Goree Island; Banjul- 4WD adventure to town, Tanji Nature Trail and a fishing village; Sao Tome - Highlights tour to Presidential Palace, National Museum, City Market & Pantufo fishing village; Walvis Bay - Dolphin & Seal skki boat trip from Swakopmund to Walvis Bay Lagoon then to Pelican Point.

We should have sufficient time to 'do our own thing' as well. Thanks for the advice on what to expect in terms of lack of infrastructure but we are used to similar situations in Egypt and when we did an independent 6 week tour of India.

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Your welcome. We visited Dakar and Banjulmin February and São Tomé and Walvis Bay in May.

What are you doing in Cape Town? We stayed there for 5 days pre cruise last year and loved it. I have information if it would be useful to you.

You sound very like us.....we really enjoy visiting places like Egypt and India and seeing such diverse cultures.

Happy travelling. SR

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RSSC are providing a 3 day 'safari' in Eastern Province, flying up to Port Elizabeth then back to Cape Town for 1 night. We have chosen then to stay at the Cape Royale hotel for another 3 nights independently before flying home with Emirates. Our first time with RSSC but we like the smaller ships. We particularly like Azamara except that the cabins are small unless you take an upmarket suite. RSSC are providing us with a trip to Table Mountain. We were considering going to Robben Island then booking a local guide with car to take us to the Cape Peninsula and surrounding area. That should give us about 1/2 day to visit the waterfront and any museums. Any advice would be most welcome.

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RSSC are providing a 3 day 'safari' in Eastern Province, flying up to Port Elizabeth then back to Cape Town for 1 night. We have chosen then to stay at the Cape Royale hotel for another 3 nights independently before flying home with Emirates. RSSC are providing us with a trip to Table Mountain. We were considering going to Robben Island then booking a local guide with car to take us to the Cape Peninsula and surrounding area. That should give us about 1/2 day to visit the waterfront and any museums. Any advice would be most welcome.

 

I would definitely recommend visiting Drakensberg Island, Cape Point, and Boulder Beach. The scenery is stunning.

 

If you like history, a good read is "A Rainbow in the Night" by Dominique LaPierre about the history of SA. If you then visit Robben Island and/or Groot Drakenstein Prison (where Mandela was released from) it will have even more impact. You will be in wine country so enjoy the vineyards and have lunch at Le Petit Ferme in Franschhoek which is near the prison. Also Stellenbosch is a nice town to walk around in.

 

Off the beaten path perhaps in Cape Town, I liked visiting the BoKaap Malay Quarter with the brightly painted houses and lunch at Bokaap Kombuis Malay restaurant. Also, a visit to the Company Garden near the Taj Hotel is nice with views of Table Mountain too.

 

Sounds like you have a great itinerary! Have a wonderful trip:)

 

Soccerref--what excellent notes and quite the experience on your trips....

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Hi!

Many thanks for this additional information. I am sure that there will be too many places to visit on this short stay in Cape Town but as we will be away for around 5 weeks feel certain that we will return for a longer visit in the future. From what I have read the Garden Route would seem to be popular possibly going as far as Durban. If we enjoy the short safari experience that RSSC are providing perhaps a longer safari might be on the cards. If anyone can recommend a safari operation in South Africa, we would prefer the luxury end of the market, I would welcome suggestions.

Thank you.

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Hi!

Many thanks for this additional information. I am sure that there will be too many places to visit on this short stay in Cape Town but as we will be away for around 5 weeks feel certain that we will return for a longer visit in the future. From what I have read the Garden Route would seem to be popular possibly going as far as Durban. If we enjoy the short safari experience that RSSC are providing perhaps a longer safari might be on the cards. If anyone can recommend a safari operation in South Africa, we would prefer the luxury end of the market, I would welcome suggestions.

Thank you.

 

Oh....your making me want to go back to SA:D

Thorny bush Lodge.....we loved it and it is adjacent to Kruger Park. Combine it with a trip to Zambia to see Victoria Falls and stay at the Royal Livingstone

 

http://www.thornybush.co.za/

 

http://royal-livingstone.anantara.com/

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Thank you for the suggestions and for the links. Both resorts look great and certainly something for us to consider in the future. For our booked trip RSSC are providing, in their words, luxury tented accommodation. I hope that they gave not misrepresented the word luxury!!!

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Hi again Johncb7,

My DH and I did a comprehensive land tour of South Africa before cruising back to the UK last April and May. We did the Archers Direct 14 day ‘South African Explorer’ tour which was fabulous. I’m not sure whether you would count it as a luxury tour but we stayed in very good quality hotels, our guides were superb, the coaches were comfortable with only 21 in the tour group and we had so many great experiences. We saw so much of this vast and fascinating country and would love to go back and see more.

We also stayed independently in Cape Town for 5 days and hired a car. We found the driving easy as the roads are good and they drive on the left.

Below is my diary. I’ve been trying to upload some photos but I'm a bit technically challenged and not having much success. I'll keep trying!

 

 

Day 14. Friday 1st May.

Cape Town - Archer's tour finishes today.

A.M. Cool and overcast but clear at the top of Table Mountain

P.M. Much warmer and sunnier.

We left the hotel at 08.30 for our last part of the tour......the Cape Town orientation......so we are then 'on our own' for the rest of our stay.

 

The Cape Town orientation

The tour started with a trip to the top of Table Mountain. It was a 20 minute drive to the cable car station and, fortunately, the queue moved fairly quickly so we were on the car by 09.15. It was R220pp return = £13 and worth every penny!

 

The cable car had a revolving floor which gave great views if it's not misty but a bit disconcerting to say the least.

 

We had 75 minutes at the top and the views were amazing. I think we were really lucky to have the mist and cloud below us for a while and then to get the views as the cloud lifted.

There are paved walkways, viewing points, free binocular stands, seats, information labels, a shop, tea shop and toilets.

I was glad that I had my fleece on as it was quite chilly out of the sun.

We returned to the coach at 10.45 and the tour continued with a visit to the old 'slave houses' which are now multi-coloured and an attractive asset to the city. From there we travelled through the city centre (not overly impressive in my opinion) to the oldest building in South Africa - the fort. The best bit was the re-enactment of the 'ceremony of the keys' at noon. The rest of the building was a bit run down but there is an extensive restoration programme taking place so it should be better presented in a couple of years.

 

The tour ended at 12.30 back at the hotel. We then tried to do the Robben Island trip but that

was fully booked until Monday so we walked down to the Waterfront and had a leisurely walk round.

 

Day 15. Saturday 2nd May,

Cape Town, car hire, Cape Point

A.M. So disappointing.......very overcast with low cloud, frequent showers and a few short sunny intervals. Fairly warm.

P.M. Much better with longer sunny intervals and clear skies by evening. It reached 26*c then.

 

The concierge ordered a taxi to the Avis depot (R38) where, after much hassle with Jim's Nationwide PIN number, we finally got the car (a white Hyundai 4 door economy) and got back to the hotel at 09.00. We will have ended up paying about £100 with the extra insurance and sat-nav but it seems worth it at the moment.

 

Peter and Christine joined us for the day and we set off for Cape Point at 09.20. It was such a shame that the weather was so gloomy as there would have been really spectacular views along the coast. We stopped at several 'viewing points' and visited, Hout Bay, Camps Bay, Llandudno (gorgeous beach), Scarborough and drove along the cliff edge road to Chapman's Point before finally reaching the

‘Cape Point’ part of the National Park. Part of the cliff drive was along a toll road with a fee of R38 per car.

 

Cape Point.

It was R110pp (£5 approx) entrance fee which was collected at the entrance. It was then a 4km drive through rugged countryside to the Visitors' Centre just below the lighthouse. There was ample parking, toilets, gift shops and food outlets along with seating and viewing area.

There is a pathway with a lot of steps which led up to the lighthouse viewing platform. Less fit people were finding it quite challenging.

There was a funicular railway which went up to the top for R55. I wish I'd found it earlier as I would have gone up.

 

When the others came down from the lighthouse we drove back towards the entrance but turned off to go to the Cape of Good Hope which is a different feature to Cape Point. At this time the sun came out and we were able to enjoy the sight of the huge crashing waves, white sand and towering cliffs in even more detail.

 

Our little group finally left the Point behind a d travelled to Simon's Town, once again on a

road that hugged the coast and provided amazing viewing places.

 

In Simon's Town we stopped at the 'penguin colony viewing bay' to have a very late lunch at a restaurant right on the beach. Before we sat down we went for a walk along the beach and saw several penguins....so cute.

Lunch on the terrace was a memorable experience but more for the view and the ambiance rather than the food (Thai fish cakes for Jim and a Piri-piri chicken wrap for me....ok but not spectacular).

There were toilets at the car park and a few stalls selling local crafts and souvenirs.

 

We carried on along the coast road for a while before joining the M3 back into Cape Town. It was here that my navigating went to pot so we took the wrong turn-off and ended up lost. I managed to set up the 'satnav' only to find that it was programmed in 'Africaan'!! It got us back on the right road though and Pete managed to change the language to English....phew!

 

Day 16. Sunday 3rd May.

Cape Town - Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens and World of Birds.

A.M. Sunny and warm with short cloudy intervals.

P.M. Longer cloudy period with temperatures around 21*c.

 

We left the apartment at just after 09.00 and used the ‘satnav’, which now speaks English, to direct us to the Botanical Gardens - an easy 20 minute drive once we had worked out how to set the darn thing.

 

The Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens.

We got to the gardens before the rush and, having paid our R50pp entrance fee, we went our separate ways for a couple of hours. The gardens were magnificent and I had a happy 75

minutes (so great to be able to do more walking) wandering along the paths and taking flower photos.

There was a gift shop with a comprehensive range of books and souvenirs of all kinds. There was a cafe, restaurant, visitors' centre, toilets and seating. There were guided walks and a motorised tour for a fee.

 

We left the Garden at noon and headed to the Zandvlei Bird Sanctuary near Muizenberg.

Zandvlei Bird Sanctuary

It was part of a large recreation area with picnic sites and water sports.

There were not many birds so we decided to go the 'World of Birds' Sanctuary near Hout Bay.

The 'World of Birds' Sanctuary near Hout Bay

It took 20 minutes and we were there by 2.30. We got the 'pensioner rate' of R55pp!

The first thing we did was have a pot of tea and a cheese and tomato toasty between us and then Jim went for a walk round but didn't like the set-up. The cages were small and it looked unkempt.

Plan C was next so we drove up to the Silvermines Nature Reserve which also turned out to be a wasted journey as the area had been destroyed by forest fire!...oh, well......

 

Day 18. Tuesday 5th May.

Embarkation day and Robben Island trip.

A.M. Overcast and misty early on and heavy drizzle by noon.

P.M. Thick grey cloud which eventually broke up by late afternoon so we got hazy sunshine. Quite warm in sheltered spots.

 

We took the car back to Avis at 11.15 and got a taxi down to the Robben Island Ferry Terminal where we needed to be for the 12.30 boarding.

 

Robben Island.

It was a good job that we took the car back when we did because we had a long wait for a taxi. The taxi (R40) took us to the 'lighthouse' entrance to the V&A which was next to where the ferry departs.....a 5 minute direct walk from the ship dock.

The ferry terminal had ticket offices, a small museum, toilets and a shop. There were a few seats in the 'holding area'. People were advised to have warm clothes as it is chilly on the ferry, even in summer!

 

THE ROBBEN ISLAND FERRY. (Thandi's Ferries)

It was tiny!! Much smaller than I expected and held about 50 people. There was open air seating on the top deck and indoor seating below. You definitely needed something warm to wear. There was a toilet but no food on sale. The trip across the bay was 35 minutes with 25 minutes being in open water.

Our crossing was quite rough even though there wasn't much wind.

 

THE ROBBEN ISLAND TOUR.

Once on the island there was a walk to the compulsory tour busses.

There were toilets along the jetty.

The tours were guided by ex-prisoners so the information was all from first-hand experience.

The bus tour lasted about 40 minutes with several stops where the guide explained the significance of the area.

There was a 15 stop at a small cafe where there were clean toilets.

The island had a very bleak and eerie atmosphere and the landscape was rugged and depressing.

The bus tour finished at the prison where another guide explained the conditions and experiences in different parts of the buildings. We saw Nelson Mandela's cell (tiny and sparse) before the group walked back to the jetty for the ride back to Cape Town.

Jim was excited to see a colony of terns which, although very noisy, had babies that were very cute.

 

The ride back to Cape Town was very rough and a few passengers were sick. The weather had improved and the sun had come out so we got great views of the city and Table Mountain.

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Many thanks for so much useful information which I will add to my file for future trips. Some great ideas on places to visit and not to visit. I had not come across Archers Direct but will check them out. I guess the word 'luxury' can be used in many ways, utmost luxury or affordable luxury. The later would fit the bill. Once again thanks for your input.

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You are very welcome.

We have done several trips with Archers....China, Southern India, Portugal, Tunisia and South Africa.... and wouldn't hesitate to use them again. We have also done land tours with Voyage Jules Verne and found them to be excellent too.

Best wishes SR

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Many thanks. The pictures were great. We have tended to 'do our own thing' for land tours. You mentioned India where we have used a Delhi travel agent. The 6 week trip was just perfect and apart from a 20% deposit upfront he did not want paying until we arrived. Even then we had to chase him to pay him to get rid of the cash!! Having covered north and central India, Southern India will hopefully be a future trip. So many places to go, hope we have enough time!!

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  • 1 year later...
West African Ports

________________________________________

This autumn we will be visiting a number of West African ports including - Dakar, Banjul, Abidjian, Takoradi, Lomo, Sao Tome and Walvis Bay. Whilst we will take a complimentary ships tour in each port there will be time either before or after the tour to have some free time. Can anyone advise me whether it is practical and safe to wander ashore from the ship to local sights or do ships dock too far 'out of town.' Thank you.

 

Hi Johncb7,

Your cruise sounds wonderful and full of new, exciting and different destinations. I can perhaps help you with some of the ports as we have visited Dakar, Banjul, Sao Tome and Walvis Bay so below are extracts from my diaries concerning these places.

I am sure that you are aware that Dakar, Banjul and Sao Tome are all ‘developing countries’ and, by our standards, very poor so be prepared to have a less sophisticated experience. Namibia is much more prosperous.

 

We visited Dakar and Banjul in 2014 on a Fred Olsen Cruise and here is what I wrote:

 

CURRENCY.

Senegal - Senegal Francs

Gambia - Delasis

Most vendors and some shops will take € and US$. They will accept Euro coins but you may be asked to swap their Euro coins for notes (5€ Is the lowest denomination note) as it is difficult to change coins at the bank.

Many vendors have no real concept of the exchange rates for their local currency so it makes sense to check the rates on board so you know what you are bargaining for. I ask prices in local currency firs before swapping to €s or US$

 

 

DAKAR SENEGAL

docked at 07.30

Ship cleared at 08.25

Guests on board 19.15

Ship departs at 20.00

Ships tours meet in either Neptune or Coral lounges - details in previous evening's 'Daily Times'

1st tour meets at 07.55

City centre is approx 1.5km from dock

Shuttle bus runs from 09.15 to 17.30 on a continuous loop - £5pp tickets from reception. Unlimited use

Huge industrial port

Taxis on dock side near gangway

Small souvenir market on dock side. Need to haggle.

Currency is CFA (Senegalese Franc.) € and US$ are widely accepted in souvenir shops

Language is French.

WARNINGS

Medical, advice is to wear trousers, socks and long sleeved tops + insect repellent and not to buy water from street vendors.

danger of pick pockets so keep valuables well guarded

You will be hassled by beggars and traders.

The Senegal post office had a small stall selling cards and stamps just inside the ship by the gangway. Postcards €1 for 2 cards. Stamps were €2 and the gentleman will post them.

 

MY TOUR -SIGHTSEEING TOUR OF DAKAR (4hrs) £40pp

Met in Neptune Lounge at 13.40

On the bus at 14.00.

Bus was old but had working air conditioning.

Microphone didn't work so guide used a megaphone!

Dakar is a big bustling busy city but relatively poor by Western European standards.

Road surfaces are poor so ride was bumpy.

We were shown the best that Dakar has to offer which, again, is not a lot if compared with some other countries.

There were a couple of photo stops and there were souvenir sellers but they seemed quite respectful.

There was a 40 minute stop at a restaurant where there was the opportunity to watch the 'sand painting' artist and purchase pictures.

The other stops (10 mins each) were at the Presidential Palace and the Monument of the African Renaissance (a huge statue at the top of one of the only 2 hills in Dakar)

A beer/soft drink was included.

There were toilets.

The tour included driving past the palace, through the University grounds, through the street market, past the cathedral and mosque, along past Independence Square and en along the Cornish to see the coastline,

Couldn't go to the market as there was nowhere to park so back to the ship at 17.30.

There was a FO crew member with us throughout.

 

Was it worth it? That's a difficult question to answer but, on reflection, I would say yes because I think many people would find it quite intimidating to walk round the city centre. Don't get me wrong, the people seemed polite and pleasant but the roads were extremely busy and the pavements were really crowded. There didn't appear to be many of the types of shops that we are used to either. I also think you would have needed to have done a lot of research to know the best places to visit. I'm not sure how much English the taxi drivers would speak.

 

MY DH'S TOUR - SALOUM ISLANDS (8hrs)

Met in Neptune Lounge at 07.50

Off ship at 8.20

Bus was air conditioned.

2 guides that took turns to give information. Both spoke good English.

2.5 hour drive to the river through interesting countryside ....... Villages, farm land and forested areas.

10 min toilet stop at petrol station.....squat plate toilets

Bumpy ride once off the main road.

Small canoe type boat which held approx 14 passengers.

Had to climb in and out without aid from the beach....no steps etc .boat ride was approx 45mins

There was a choice of riding to the village by cart or doing a10 min walk.

Lunch was at the Island Eco-lodge.

Spring rolls, fish in light curry sauce, rice, salad and crepes.

Given a bottle of water at lunch.

This was followed by some free time.

There was a 50 minute ride to the 'shell village' where a local guide explained the history of the area.

Left the village at 16.45

Returned to the ship by a different route for part of the journey.

Back on board at 19.00

My DH said that he thoroughly enjoyed the tour as it gave him an inside into the history and geography of Senegal.

 

 

BANJUL, GAMBIA. GENERAL INFORMATION

docked just after 08.00

Cleared for disembarkation at 08.40

All aboard 17.15

Departure 18.00

Industrial port but nice views across to small beach and local small ferries

Approx 2 km into town centre.

Banjul could be even more of a culture shock than Dakar.

The currency is the Dalasis.....approx 63=£1

Most vendors accept € and US$ but you need to haggle....it's expected.

I didn't see any taxis on the dock side but they may have been hidden by the tour busses. There were a few taxis at the port gate 400m from the ship

There was 1 person holding up a passenger's name so I assume that was for a pre-arranged private tour.

IMHO walking into town would be a real challenge to the senses and sensibilities of someone who is used to more sophisticated urban surroundings.

I spoke to a couple who walked in to town and they were approached by several locals who offered to show them the sights. They said that they should have negotiated a price immediately with one of them which may have prevented the pestering.

There didn't seem to be a lot to see in the town centre.

 

OUR TOUR -'LAZY DAY CRUISE'

Met in Neptune Lounge at 08.30

Coach had air con.

Guide spoke good English and had a sense of humour

Ride was 30 mins

Drove through the centre of Banjul and then through the countryside to the river dock.

Short walk over rough ground to the jetties to board the boats,

A bit tricky to get on but plenty of helping hands.

Approx 20 passengers per boat and 5 crew including the guide.

Top deck is open with some garden chairs and lounging mats. There is a small covered area.

Downstairs has bench seats around the exterior sides of the boat with some cushions.

There is a small kitchen.

The toilet is a proper flushing one and there was toilet paper + a wash basin with soap.

cups of tea/coffee + 1 beer or 1soft drink we're complimentary. There was also a complementary glass of sparkling wine or orange juice at lunch.

Some boats had sets of binoculars and bird books for passenger use (ours didn't which was annoying as we could have brought our own)

Lunch consisted of shepherd’s pie, fish, salad, rice, French bread and fresh fruit ( mango, oranges and bananas)

We sailed in a loose convoy along the river. It was lined with just mangrove trees so the scenery was rather monotonous. There were several species of birds to spot including storks, kingfishers, ibis, bee eaters and rollers but not much else.

Our boat did stop in mid river for 30 mins so people could swim but the ladder was a bit rickety. Some boats pulled onto a beach so people could paddle or walk.

 

We visited Walvis Bay and Sao Tome in May 2015 on a Princess cruise

 

Walvis Bay, Namibia. WALVIS BAY WILD LIFE CRUISE.

A.M. Thick fog and cold early on. Some sunny periods by late morning but cold on the water.

P.M. Sunny but with a cool wind. Warm in sheltered areas.

Sea conditions: millpond calm.

 

Our tour group's meeting time was 08.00 in the Caberet lounge so we were going to have a bit of a lie-in but I woke up at 05.45 and decided to have my shower and go for breakfast early so I could watch the sail-in. Unfortunately, it was too foggy to see anything!

 

THE WALVIS BAY WILD LIFE CRUISE.

We left the ship at 08.15 by coach for the 10-minute drive to the boat dock and this is where my heart sank as it was right in the middle of the fish processing area and so the smell was awful. There were clean toilets and a tiny office area with a seat but that was about it.

The boats were small, semi-covered, fast game fishing style vessels which held 10/15 passengers.

There was no jetty so the tour boat firm had a narrow, extendable walk-way out from the mud flats and there were people to help you move along it.

 

Once on board our pilot and guide, Ruen (he had a great sense of humour) showed us that there was a toilet on board (small but adequate) and explained the safety rules before we set off across the bay.

 

This was where things improved and the fun began. Ruen stopped the boat in several places and we got very 'up close and personal' with pelicans, seals, dolphins and flamingos as well as many other sea birds and the sand dunes along the Namibian coast.

At times, the boat went very fast so it was a bumpy ride and sometimes I had to cling very tightly to the rail to stop myself bouncing off my seat but it was so exciting and exhilarating!

 

Ruen stopped the boat for 30 minutes by a sandbar and served sparkling wine, freshly shucked oysters and a variety of nibbles. Soft drinks and beer were offered throughout the trip.

 

We saw a lot and learned a lot so, despite the unpromising start we all had a great time. Hopefully, in years to come, the company will build a proper floating dock away from the fish processing plant and then the whole experience will be as great as the middle bit!

 

We were very glad that we had our fleeces and waterproof coats as it was very cold when we were moving and the spray was splashing over the sides.

 

It was a wonderful trip and well worth the money although I know a lot of people complained about the dock area.

 

A really great day.

 

WALVIS BAY.

The port is huge and very industrial.

There was a free shuttle to the port gate where there was a small craft market.

There were taxis available on the dock.

The town is larger and seems more prosperous than Luderitz with wide streets and good quality, modern housing.

The town centre is a good 20-minutes’ walk from the port gate.

There are a couple of shopping malls and supermarkets.

The majority of shops are closed on Saturday afternoon and all day on Sunday.

There is a large lagoon just outside the town with a pleasant promenade.

 

SAO TOME. Tender port.

A.M. Sunny, hot and humid.

P.M. Very, very hot and humid with cloudy intervals and quite a strong breeze.

Sea conditions: choppy on the tenders.

 

We got up early and got breakfast at 07.30 after coffee for Jim in bed and me on the balcony. It was a lovely 'sail-in' to São Tomé with lots of tiny fishing boat bobbing about on a turquoise calm sea and the volcanic peaks of the island as a backdrop.

As we got closer we could see some nice looking hotels and lush vegetation.

 

SAO TOMÉ

This was the first time a Princess ship had been to São Tomé and only the 2nd cruise ship ever so it was a bit chaotic to disembark.

It was a tender port so Jim went downstairs 08.30 to get in the queue for tickets. They started letting people into the lounge at 09.00 and we got tickets 29&30 but unfortunately there were over 300 elite passengers who had priority so we were way down the list.

The first tender was called at 09.45 and we left at 10.00 on the third one......not too bad!

The ride took just less than 10 minutes.

The dock was small and industrial.

There were toilet facilities in the terminal building.

Our passports were collected by the authorities to be stamped with the tourist visa and we collected them on the ship the following day.

The visa charge was added to our account........?

 

Once outside the terminal building there were several mini buses that had been pre-booked for private tours. There were several taxis of different sizes for hire.

Very little English was spoken.

Euros were widely accepted, US$ less so. There was no option to use credit/debit cards for purchases.

We negotiated a 5 hour round the island taxi tour for four people (Terry and Kerrie joined us) for €100.

The cab was old and the driver was young but we got round safely......everyone seems to drive like maniacs and the roads are pothole filled so it was quite a hair-raising experience.

The island population is mainly very poor by our standards but there was no hassle to buy souvenirs and sellers were few and far between.

The island really isn't geared up for tourism.

The town of Tomé is small and has a distinct Portuguese colonial feel but the buildings are shabby and in need of repair.

 

Our tour took us through the town where we saw the church and the market. We then drove high into the interior with its lush tropical vegetation and winding, and sometimes unpaved, roads to a small village where there was ‘The Museum of Coffee Bean Production’.

It was €2pp for the entry fee and that included a small cup of very strong but delicious local coffee.

I bought some local ground coffee for €3.70 a packet.

There was a clean toilet here.

From there we continued climbing higher until we reached a pretty waterfall and a view point over the whole island.

After that our driver proceeded down the mountain to another couple of churches and a fort where there was a small beach.

 

By this time, Kerry, Terry and I were feeling as if we had seen enough so the driver dropped us off back at the port and took Jim into town. Jim found a large supermarket and got some packets of nuts for himself and cans of tonic water for me. They would only accept local currency and Euros. There was no credit/debit card facility.

 

 

Another great day with a wonderful experience.

 

I hope you find the information helpful. Have a great time.

What a fantastic summary - clear and informative!

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