Raina's Blogging again - Rhapsody "Around the Horn" & Antarctica.

Day 28

Buenos Aires

La Boca. Amazing.

A very touristy area of lovely old building, markets and restaurants. But all of the buildings have been painted in bright colours. And models of caricatures on the balconies, from the windows etc. It was a visual feast. Absolutely beautiful. There were models and buskers of Diego Maradona and the Pope everywhere as this is where they both came from.

Day 28

Buenos Aires

More La Boca - because it's so pretty. The light was lovely. Galleries, restaurants, public art, stalls. Wonderful.

These canvas's were amazing. But lucky I didn't. By the time I went home I could barely have fitted a feather into my luggage. And lucky I didn't take a feather as they are a big NO-NO to Australia. LOL.

Day 28

Buenos Aires

More La Boca

Every eating place has multiple Tango shows.

Most places has free Wi-Fi (are as it is called Whiff - ee)

Sadly the kids were at school - not on the court!

La Boca - Pretty stunning. A Buenos Aires Hot Spot!

Day 28

Buenos Aires

Then on around the city. Past all the important places…like the Polo Grounds within the city. The racecourse, two soccer stadiums.

The building are beautiful.

Giant tree.

I walked across, then later travelled on the bus, on the biggest road in the world. “Avenida 9 de Julio”, which means “the 9th of July Avenue”, their Independence day. 20 lanes of traffic, included bus only lanes. Thank goodness for traffic lights.

When we got off the bus we found an amazing delicatessen / wine bar. It was a full on shop, but also had tables. You bought your food and wine then sat there and ate it. Apparently a proper Tapas Bar. This Canberra person has never seen one.

We got a great ‘sparkling’ made by Chandon with Argentinian grapes ---- for $22 and it was great. What a great way to eat.

Another great day.

Tomorrow…..I head off into the country to become a Gaucho on the Pampas! Just like I planned t be when I was 16.

Buenos Aires

Day 29

You get to laugh a me here.......

When I was about 16, I made the decision that I would move to Argentina, live on the Pampas and become a Gaucho - a South American Cowboy. I would live the perfect horse life. (I was a horse rider).

I never did make the move (probably due to a fair bit of guidance from the patents). Dad managed to find me a Gaucho saddle. It was a fibreglass tree covered in sheepskin. Maybe he got it to get the gaucho life out of my system. But I did have fun preparing to be one.

I make a boleadoras - the leather weapon with three stones, that was twirled around the head then flung to tangle the beast. Mine was made of stockings not leather, but good old Brownie (my trusty Brumby horse) did allow me to use it and together we chased and tangled many trees on Mount Ainslie, behind our house.

So coming to Argentina to see the Gauchos was so exciting.

I had a good start to my life as a Gaucho.

I slept the deep sleep of a tourist. I woke up early then went back to sleep. Oh dear. My phone was on very, very quiet so I didn't hear it in my noisy hotel room. I woke up at 9.17. Plenty of time for a 9.30 pickup. Lol.

I made it with heaps of time to sit in the lobby and wait. And now my stomach will have plenty of room for the Argentinian BBQ feast I am expecting.

Saturday's are busy in BA. It seemed that every one of the 12 million people are out being healthy. Running. Or walking. Or at soccer training or games. Or in big groups doing “boot camp" type fitness work. The parks all have a playground and an outdoor gym. Most stations were constantly being used.

We travelled for an hour or so along the big tollway. Each lane had a different speed limit. The left was 130 Ks The right 90. Hard to police, but makes more sense than ‘slow vehicles use right lane’.

The cars are mostly small and the lanes are a good size so there is a lot of lane splitting. Not by motor bikes but by cars. Ouch.

And when changing lanes to pass it is also done differently. They get to within about 1 meter of the car in front before pulling out. Sometimes leaving 300 mm between the bus traveling at 102 ks and the tiny car doing 100. But no scrapes.

We pulled into a HUGE car park. Like a Disneyland sized park. "Oh no. It is a theme park not a real ranch". We sat on the bus for 15 minutes while the guide went off for tickets. Noooo. "Don't be negative. Still enjoy the day" I kept telling myself.

Then she came back with a first full of tickets and (hurray) called the people who were going to the Zoo off the bus. They got off and we left. Yes.

Back on to the tollway for another while.

Suddenly we were in farmland. Flat, open and fairly treeless. I guess I am in the Pampas. My 16 year old dream was happening.

Every now and then we pass through small towns. And I finally saw houses. And they look like little haciendas from the movies. Earthy colours with walled surrounds.

When we turned off the freeway once again the traffic conditions were different. Lots of cars turning off. But no traffic lights. Everyone sorted themselves out as we went under the freeway. Cars weaving through each other. But calmly and gently. When we were behind a small car - 500 mms behind, our driver was looking and chatting to the guide as the bus crept forwards. When our bus gentle ‘kissed’ the car in front it was not even acknowledged. That's what bumper bars are for - to absorbed the bump!

Along the side of the road are food trucks. But they are mobile BBQs. You see them up ahead by the clouds of smoke. And they have the whole hog (hahah). Whole animals on a spit. Lambs on the rack - spread flat and delicious. I wanted to stop the bus!

We arrived at the place, Estancia Santa Susanna and were greeted by gauchos in their amazing costumes bearing wine and empanadas. This was going to be good.

Buenos Aires

Day 29

First thing I did was to go for a horse ride. I was to be a gaucho after all. The horses all stood around in a yard. They picked a horse. Then a rider. No mounting blocks - so it took a good bit of charades to tell them that my two metal knees didn't bend, but with my maybe 30 words and exceptional acting skills finally worked. The man hauled me up onto my horse and it was so worth it.

It was just a mob trail walk but lovely. And these horses really worked off their necks. It was lovely. School horses that bend and listened. One of the Gauchos was riding a spectacular horse.

Again after much baby talk from me and acting, I got out of him that it was "Patacon". I think this is the Argentinian Warmblood Sports horse. This guy was stunning. A really heavy breed about 15hh. There were more of them later in the show.

The saddles were like the one I had, a fibreglass tree with a blanket over it. The girth held the saddle and the surcingle held the blanket. Very comfortable.

There was a carriage ride for the non riders.

It was then in for lunch. Through the gift shop of course. And there were the Boleadoras. Bet you know what I did? I now have my Boleadoras. But I shall hang this lot on the wall – not go hunting trees with it. And they are not made of stockings. They are very thin leather.

I then remembered that I hadn't been to the museum so raced over. It was great!

Buenos Aires

Day 29

On they way back to the dinning area I passed the BBQ. WOW!

Lunch was great. But mucho everything. Chorizo. Unbelievable. I don't think I will ever eat it again. This one was so light and with soooo much taste. And the skin from the open flame was absolutely perfect.

The blood sausage, ……….not so much. I only tasted a piece the size of peanut The taste was fine but the texture......... YUCK!

Huge steaks. Whole scotch fillets cut into slices 6cm thick.

Then chicken, then lamb. And bread and salads. Great salads. And desert. Fantastic fed! And wine. Of course I shocked people when I wanted 'Blanco' wine not Malbec - but it did mean no one shared my bottle.

A bit sad for the three guys from Turkey I sat with. Vegetarian Muslims. Lucky the salads were so good. Must have been torture for them.

The guys just kept coming with more and more meat.

The show was fantastic too. Tango. Singing. Etc. I really love that it was just done in Spanish. That is what we came for. A genuine Argentinian show. Don't pander to the tourists. Give them what they came to see. The MC was the singer. He was great.

The dancing was amazing. Almost every place you go to eat has a Tango show. But this was great. Tango. Flamingo. A gaucho dance with the Boleadoras. Ok. I'll admit it after seeing this, Brownie and I still had a way to go before we were real Gaucho.

Buenos Aires

Day 29

And then it was outside for the horse show.

First part was one gaucho with a lead horse wearing a bell, a mob of horses followed the lead horse. His team of 8 horses worked at Liberty like invisible lead ropes. And there were three different groups. Cantering around the paddock, stopping, starting. When they can up to the fence people rushed forward to pat them. The coloured horses with wall eyes (bluish) sent people into a frenzy. It is so funny to see the reaction of the non-horse people.

Then they did a tent pegging like activity. (Tent Pegging is an Australia equestrian sport based on the "Charge of the Light Brigade" in the Bore War, where solders cut down tent ropes with swords to trap the Bores and then charged with lances).

Gauchos used a thing like a pen and tried to capture the metal loop. Then they gave them to people in the crowd. Very skilful with a tiny tool but not a patch on tent pegging. Entertaining though. Then people could go jump up behind a gaucho and go for a canter. The old guy charged them a kiss.

I was happy. What a great day. And I don't think it was the 3/4 of a bottle of ‘Blanco’ wine that did it.

In reflection I do believe that I made a good decision not a Gaucho on the Pampas. I do think that teaching was the far superior career choice. I may have made an excellent Gaucho and maybe even would have become a 'five goal' Polo player. We shall never know. But I would have missed out on a few other things! I made a good choice.

But I did live my day on the pampas being a gaucho.

When I left my hotel in the morning, they were setting up tents for an event Yay a food festival straight out my door.

When I got back the tent were up….so was the huge stage. It’s a music festival not a food festival. And remember I said my room was noisy with street noise…….

And tomorrow I board the Rhapsody of the Seas. In my JUNIOR SUITE - cause I got a free upgrade! YAYAYAYAYAY. When I checked my email there was the new room notification! The UPGRADE FAIRY had been! I went from an O/V on deck 3 to a Junior Suite on Deck 8.

I was in shock! Had never had an upgrade and then I got one on the Sea Spirit and one on Rhapsody. It must be because I ate that shrivelled kidney in Ushuaia! What a spoilt brat I am! (For those that want to know - I booked directly on line with RCCL.)

Oh my goodness!! All this wonderful adventure and now a cruise to finish it off with a free upgrade!!! You are living a charmed life!! :D

Raina,

Repeating what so many have said here, thanks a million for taking the time to put together the memories of your trip. Your photos are truly astounding. You certainly captured some amazing moments!

I am booked on a 14-day 'drive by' with Celebrity in February. Antarctica has been a dream trip of mine for a long time, and after much research and review I just feel that the non-expeditionary version is a better fit for DW and myself. Undoubtedly we will miss out on some great experiences, but hopefully I'll have the chance to see alot of penguins, some of those amazing ice shapes, and other wildlife. My greatest fear, of course, is the potential to encounter "Drake Rake" instead of the lake..since I'm not a great fan of excessive ship motion (another reason I chose a larger ship).

Having been to so many places down there, perhaps you could offer any suggestions or thoughts....we leave out of BA and then are scheduled to visit Ushuaia, Schollart Channel, Paradise Bay, Gerlache Strait, Elephant Island, Port Stanley, and then on the way back up to BA stops at Puerto Madryn and Montevideo.

I have the following excursions booked:

Ushuaia - Beagle Channel and Tierra Del Fuego National Park

Port Stanley - Sparrow Cove Penguin Adventure (primarily Gentoos); Another option in Port Stanley is the Punta Tombo Rookery which is supposed to have a large number of Magellans. I'll be more than disappointed if conditions are such that the ship does not get to call at Port Stanley, which I understand does happen sometimes. There are no King penguins in any of my excursions. The one that does see Kings goes to Volunteer Point - which appears to be rather well known and is supposed to provide the chance to see Kings, Gentoos, and Magellanic. Would you suggest this over the Sparrow Cove trip?

Puerto Madryn - Estancia San Lorenzo Penguin Reserve and Punta (Magellan colony, also a Patagonian barbecue lunch and Punta Norte to see elephant seal and sea lion colony). Another option here, though, is the Punta Tombo Penguin Rookery which it stated as having 2,000,000 Magellans in the colony. Might this be a better bet? I just thought Estancia sounded nice since besides the penguins it offers the chance to see the seals and sea lions. Any thoughts on which might be better? Most involve like 5 hours of travel time out of a total 7-8 hour excursion.

I also liked this itinerary for the chance to see a bit in South America, having never been there.

Thanks again for sharing your incredible journey!!

Keith

I just went in to the Celebrity website and saw that there is now an excursion that goes to Bluff Cove Lagoon, which has both Kings and Gentoos, so I booked this and cancelled the Sparrow Cove trip. I would have been disappointed not to get to see Kings. NOW all I need is good weather to be able to get to Port Stanley!! Forgot to mention that we also go to Montevideo, Uruguay on the way back up.

Regards,

Keith

Your review is soooo fantastic! I wanted to be a tango dancer. I dragged my husband to a lot of tango shows in Buenos Aires. Like you probably best I was a teacher. But we will go back to Buenos Aires to see more Tango. And We will definitely do a tour to see the Gauchos after reading your story.

Raina,

 

Repeating what so many have said here, thanks a million for taking the time to put together the memories of your trip. Your photos are truly astounding. You certainly captured some amazing moments!

 

I am booked on a 14-day 'drive by' with Celebrity in February. Antarctica has been a dream trip of mine for a long time, and after much research and review I just feel that the non-expeditionary version is a better fit for DW and myself. Undoubtedly we will miss out on some great experiences, but hopefully I'll have the chance to see alot of penguins, some of those amazing ice shapes, and other wildlife. My greatest fear, of course, is the potential to encounter "Drake Rake" instead of the lake..since I'm not a great fan of excessive ship motion (another reason I chose a larger ship).

 

Having been to so many places down there, perhaps you could offer any suggestions or thoughts....we leave out of BA and then are scheduled to visit Ushuaia, Schollart Channel, Paradise Bay, Gerlache Strait, Elephant Island, Port Stanley, and then on the way back up to BA stops at Puerto Madryn and Montevideo.

 

I have the following excursions booked:

 

Ushuaia - Beagle Channel and Tierra Del Fuego National Park

 

Port Stanley - Sparrow Cove Penguin Adventure (primarily Gentoos); Another option in Port Stanley is the Punta Tombo Rookery which is supposed to have a large number of Magellans. I'll be more than disappointed if conditions are such that the ship does not get to call at Port Stanley, which I understand does happen sometimes. There are no King penguins in any of my excursions. The one that does see Kings goes to Volunteer Point - which appears to be rather well known and is supposed to provide the chance to see Kings, Gentoos, and Magellanic. Would you suggest this over the Sparrow Cove trip?

 

Puerto Madryn - Estancia San Lorenzo Penguin Reserve and Punta (Magellan colony, also a Patagonian barbecue lunch and Punta Norte to see elephant seal and sea lion colony). Another option here, though, is the Punta Tombo Penguin Rookery which it stated as having 2,000,000 Magellans in the colony. Might this be a better bet? I just thought Estancia sounded nice since besides the penguins it offers the chance to see the seals and sea lions. Any thoughts on which might be better? Most involve like 5 hours of travel time out of a total 7-8 hour excursion.

 

I also liked this itinerary for the chance to see a bit in South America, having never been there.

 

Thanks again for sharing your incredible journey!!

 

Keith

How exciting!!!!

I have a 2 sets of friends that have done the Celebrity trip. They loved it and their photos were fantastic. You will have a ball. It is definitely a great trip. And those ports will show you so much.

Schollart Channel, Paradise Bay, Gerlache Strait, are all the places I mentioned in the Antarctic section. And Madryn and Montevideo I will get to soon. Bluff Cove Lagoon will be lovely. It's just around from Gypsy Cove.

Port Stanley must be a tricky harbour mouth as I cannot see how weather would stop ships getting in.

Just check the time of year before you spend too much on penguin trips. They were all gone in March. So check dates. But the Kings are amazing!

How exciting.

Raina

Your review is soooo fantastic! I wanted to be a tango dancer. I dragged my husband to a lot of tango shows in Buenos Aires. Like you probably best I was a teacher. But we will go back to Buenos Aires to see more Tango. And We will definitely do a tour to see the Gauchos after reading your story.

Maybe we could start up a Tango and Gaucho Experience together.:D

Raina

Day 31

Buenos Aires

I spent the morning catching up with an ex student who was on exchange in 1994, now 43. I was teaching Outdoor Education and took him on some fun trips like snorkelling and skiing so he remembered me fondly! He lives in Buenos Aires and is a university lecturer. It was great to see the city with a local and hear so much about it.

After lunch he dropped me at the ship. Check in was amazing. It was the first time I had even checked in so late - about 3pm. Straight through. Not a single person in front of me in any of the stops. It was back at the working port - so check in then onto a shuttle bus for the 10 minute twisty ride through the port. Onto the ship then down to me lovely room.

Spoilt. It was the last room Starboard Aft, deck 8 and was wonderful.

We had an overnight in Buenos Aires tonight so no Muster Drill yet. We would sail the next evening.

Rhapsody is a lovely ship. True it is older and smaller - but wonderful. No bells and whistles but you don't need them on port intensive trips like this. The staff are great. I really do miss not having a Giovanni's Table though.

My room was great, fantastic room steward and the balcony was great. Room 8594. The balcony (being the last one) was half enclosed. So if you are a sun worshipper you may not like it, but I loved it. Sheltered, always a place out of the sun and great views.

Buenos Aires – Tigre Delta

Day 32

Today's adventure was a trip to the Tigre Delta. The Tigre River is one of the main rivers in the district flowing down from the inland jungles. It flows into the Parana Delta. The water is coffee coloured and apparently very rich in iron. It gets it’s name from the many ’tigres’ or jaguars that were hunted in the area. It’s a popular weekend spot for Buenos Aires people.

I was doing a trip on my own. I walked about 5 blocks to the train station and eventually found the correct part.

I caught a commuter train, the 'Linea Mitre', up to Tigre. The trip was an hour long. It could have been any commute train anywhere in the world. Clean and busy. But much more exciting. There were buskers, and people selling things, walking up and down waving their items at you – ear phones, selfie sticks, phone cases, drinks, chocolates.

Two guys had a little amplifier. They moved through each carriage and sang a few songs. Everyone clapped and cheered, then the bucket came around. Very happy to contribute.

The train travel parallel to one of the main roads I have travelled a few times. But was further back so I got to see the racecourse and of course many other things.

The railway bridges are really pretty. Red brick with lovely patterns. The rail system was built by the Brits so is efficient and lovely. The government is closing lots of it off. Especially the long haul trips. They are not making enough money.

No wonder! My one hour trip cost me a whole 6 pesos. That would be 60 Australian cents.

Further out of town I finally got to see the burbs. Terrace house with little yards. Inner Sydney types. And later again, bigger houses with larger blocks. But still there were many large blocks of flats popping up.

I arrived in Tigre and found the boat rides (10 minute walk). The area is full of wild swamps and of expensive houses. Not fancy houses (although there were a few) but expensive houses.

Buenos Aires – Tigre Delta

Day 32

There are no roads into the area. Just boats.

Buenos Aires – Tigre Delta

Day 32

All on at least 1/4 acre blocks with many bigger. And all with jetties.

The river is huge with many islands and branches. I spent a very pleasant hour cruising along on a boat munching empanadas. Two empanadas and a drink - $5.

After the boat trip I saw some lovely building so walked in the opposite direction for about 15 minutes to see them. It was the Buenos Aires Rowing Club.

Buenos Aires – Tigre Delta

Day 32

Then back to the train station. I was traveling back on the scenic train. 'Tren de la Costa'. It runs down the coast. It was really pretty and really expensive. 20 pesos! $2!!!!!!

But.... It was at a different train station. I was almost half way there in my last walk. Oh well it was pretty. Back I went. I did get to go and see the “Puerto de Frutos” which was indeed not a fruit market - It was now a craft market.

Then onto the train.

I went past a polo fiend with men in suits setting up linen table clothes and ice buckets of wine.

The train ended at Mitre station and with a change onto another train to the ship. This leg cost 10pesos. $1AU

Well I suppose it is OK to call it a “stunning coastal train ride”. It did follow the coast down. But well inland so at only one place did I get to see the ocean. And the view across the bay to Buenos Aires. A very "filtered view" but a view.

At Mitre I spent about half an hour at the antique markets. And I nearly cried. Such nice gear for so little money.

I don't think my luggage will even fit a teaspoon, so I bought nothing.

They also sold modern pine furniture at one shop. Ugly and more then twice the price. Whyyyyyyy?

The weather turned today. Back to that hot Buenos Aires I experienced a month ago. Hot and sweaty. I think I shall move on to a cooled clime.

I MISS THE ANTARCTIC WEATHER.

My day out cost me

6 pesos train,150 pesos boat, 20 Costal train, 10 other train, 60 empanadas and drink and 20 for another water.

About $25 AU. And I conquered the public transport. The ship tour on the bus was $80US and it was only 4 hours.

I did about 6 hours and was still back 2 hours before all aboard.

Such an easy trip to do on your own.

I was back in time to have a shower and a cool down (and to do some washing) before muster drill.

It was then lounge time and chatting. Then sail away. We have a huge journey tonight. Its almost 200 ks across to Uruguay. We may need to travel backwards.

See Industrial ports can be pretty.

Yay - I was back on a ship.

Thanks again. I know there are people on CC that are already booking private excursions that apparently sell out literally 2 years ahead of time, which is why I wanted to nail down the ship excursions that I like and get them booked. I appreciate your taking the time to comment on the ports and places that my cruise is going to. Looking forward to it. Once again, enjoyed seeing your pictures so much. Do you do any photo enhancement after taking the pics, or is the way we're seeing them the same as what the camera saw? Just wondering since I always do auto enhance with an OLD version of mac picture project to improve on color, sharpness, etc. Yours certainly don't need anything. They are fantastic.

BTW...Australia and NZ is another of my dream trips. My problem is that the one I like - with Collette - is close to 30 days - a bit long for me especially with the pets going into a kennel whenever we are away. And to fly all the way from PA down there twice - to split the trip into one for AUS and one for NZ seems a bit crazy. I do want to get there though. I have ancestry from Warrnambool and so have always been intrigued to go down that way (although probably won't actually get to Warrnambool anyway!)

As you said...a bucket is too small to contain the list of places I want to see. I notice you did a Baltic trip...how did you enjoy that? We did that last summer on the Serenade and loved it although found it to be a very busy and sometimes hectic trip - with so many excursions it sort of felt more like a land tour that took place while being on a ship. It was great being in port 2 nights at St. Petersburg. We went with Alla Tours and had a fantastic local guide. The craziest part of the trip was the frantic quest to buy rubles onboard ship. Everybody wanted them and the guest services desk kept running out every day. Then there were the people who had their passports stolen in SPB - husband had to go back on the ship, pack all the luggage (wife was not allowed back on board since she was the one who lost the passport). Then, once they got off, since they were from South Africa and SPB has no African embassy, they had to fly to Moscow at their own expense and wait there until they got a new passport or whatever. No idea what happened after that. Felt so bad for them since it was an anniversary trip. I did hear the lady say that they will never cruise again nor ever leave South Africa. Hope things improved and that they decided to keep traveling. AND, the same people had their passports / purse taken by mistake one day as they were coming back on board through ship security, but then got it back the same day I think. Talk about some bad luck....

Regards,

Keith

Thanks again. I know there are people on CC that are already booking private excursions that apparently sell out literally 2 years ahead of time, which is why I wanted to nail down the ship excursions that I like and get them booked. I appreciate your taking the time to comment on the ports and places that my cruise is going to. Looking forward to it. Once again, enjoyed seeing your pictures so much. Do you do any photo enhancement after taking the pics, or is the way we're seeing them the same as what the camera saw? Just wondering since I always do auto enhance with an OLD version of mac picture project to improve on color, sharpness, etc. Yours certainly don't need anything. They are fantastic.

 

BTW...Australia and NZ is another of my dream trips. My problem is that the one I like - with Collette - is close to 30 days - a bit long for me especially with the pets going into a kennel whenever we are away. And to fly all the way from PA down there twice - to split the trip into one for AUS and one for NZ seems a bit crazy. I do want to get there though. I have ancestry from Warrnambool and so have always been intrigued to go down that way (although probably won't actually get to Warrnambool anyway!)

 

As you said...a bucket is too small to contain the list of places I want to see. I notice you did a Baltic trip...how did you enjoy that? We did that last summer on the Serenade and loved it although found it to be a very busy and sometimes hectic trip - with so many excursions it sort of felt more like a land tour that took place while being on a ship. It was great being in port 2 nights at St. Petersburg. We went with Alla Tours and had a fantastic local guide. The craziest part of the trip was the frantic quest to buy rubles onboard ship. Everybody wanted them and the guest services desk kept running out every day. Then there were the people who had their passports stolen in SPB - husband had to go back on the ship, pack all the luggage (wife was not allowed back on board since she was the one who lost the passport). Then, once they got off, since they were from South Africa and SPB has no African embassy, they had to fly to Moscow at their own expense and wait there until they got a new passport or whatever. No idea what happened after that. Felt so bad for them since it was an anniversary trip. I did hear the lady say that they will never cruise again nor ever leave South Africa. Hope things improved and that they decided to keep traveling. AND, the same people had their passports / purse taken by mistake one day as they were coming back on board through ship security, but then got it back the same day I think. Talk about some bad luck....

 

Regards,

Keith

The Circumnavigation b2b around Aust /NZ is brilliant. I did it a few years ago and am doing in again in 2017.

I loved the Baltic cruise - fantastic area.But as you say - exhausting. like all European trips it was SO busy. And so much for the brain to take in. Loved it.

Sad story about the SA people.

Raina

Raina, Hubby and I have been following your journey and loving it! We were on Rhapsody around the Horn last month and ended in Buenos Aires. I could have spent hours at Recoleta Cemetery. We thought that your view of the cemetery from your hotel room was amazing. Do you sell your images? I would love to be able to present him with a high-res copy of that picture and can promise that we aren't interested in publishing it.

I think you will love Rhapsody. The Chef's table was outstanding and suprisingly intimate.

Jean

Day 28 Buenos Aires

 

Disembarkation was very civilised and really well done.

 

Bags didn't have to be out until out by 6.00 am!

We then collected passports, and a thumb drive with photos, contact lists etc.

 

Breakfast and good byes and of course a quick trip up to the 'Owners Suite' for a look. Pretty impressive. It had a big deck above the bridge, and was similar (a bit smaller and no grand piano to a Royal Suite). Definitely not worth the money (in my thinking) as deck access was so good everywhere and more so then on a normal cruise you are not in your room very much.

 

 

Buenos Aires is a working port so onto shuttle buses to the front for luggage collection. Immigration must have been done on the ship as there was nothing. Then we got onto buses (supplied by Poseidon for free) by 9.30 and were taken to various places – International airport, domestic airport and a few hotel locations.

 

I dropped my gear and went to La Recolenta Cemetery. This was built by the Monks in the early 1800’s. It was on the outskirts of town – but is now a tourist hot spot in the middle of town. It contains the graves of people like Eva Peron, many Presidents, Nobel prize winners and a grand daughter of Napoleon.

 

 

It is nothing like I expected. Not like any cemetery I have ever seen. Inside the magnificent, huge red brick wall (which was worth visiting on it's own) – was a crowded built up area. It’s 14 acres and has 4691 vaults.

 

I was expecting a fancy cemetery like you see in the movies. Green grass with lovely headstones and a few fancy crypts.

Note about my research - I like to research what is in an area, how to get there, etc. But I don't like to know too much about the place. I want to be amazed when I get there not go "Oh yer, I saw that on the internet". I don't mind seeing a few photos before hand like on blogs etc but don't spend hours pouring over facts and photos.

 

So my first view out a hotel window was gobsmacking!

 

 

All like super fancy sheds with elaborate stone work and statues.

 

 

 

But also very creepy. You could peek into them…and there were coffins just inside the dusty and cracked glass doors. And staircase leading down to the other levels full of dead relatives. Some of them had ten or more coffins on shelves. Others were a bit like little glass houses with a plinth with a coffin on in. Then a red velvet chair to sit on by the coffin….in the Argentinian heat………with a dead relative. I don’t think body bags were that good at keeping the smell in.

 

 

And so many tiny coffins.

 

 

Some of the family must have died out as the vaults are in really bad shape with pieces crumbling, doors falling off and glass breaking. These plots are resold and a fancy new crypt is built.

The Circumnavigation b2b around Aust /NZ is brilliant. I did it a few years ago and am doing in again in 2017.

 

I loved the Baltic cruise - fantastic area.But as you say - exhausting. like all European trips it was SO busy. And so much for the brain to take in. Loved it.

Sad story about the SA people.

 

Raina

I don't think I'm interested in doing a cruise for visiting AUS and NZ. It would seem that doing it that way would not explore much of the interior. I'm thinking a land tour for down there, although I appreciate the suggestion! I guess with some lengthy excursions the circumnavigation might work for me, but I'm wondering if it could turn into something like people who decided to visit Moscow while the ship was in SPB - talk about a LONG day! Or the 13-hour excursion to Iguazu Falls from BA...think I'll pass on that too.

I don't think I'm interested in doing a cruise for visiting AUS and NZ. It would seem that doing it that way would not explore much of the interior. I'm thinking a land tour for down there, although I appreciate the suggestion! I guess with some lengthy excursions the circumnavigation might work for me, but I'm wondering if it could turn into something like people who decided to visit Moscow while the ship was in SPB - talk about a LONG day! Or the 13-hour excursion to Iguazu Falls from BA...think I'll pass on that too.

I agree with you. I've only ever been to Australia once, back in 2010 and I did a land tour. I'm going again in a couple years on a cruise but think I made the right decision doing a land trip for the first visit. I spent five days in Sydney, five in Melbourne, Four in Cairns, and three in Brisbane and saw so much more than I could have ever done in a one day port visit for each. It is still the best vacation I've ever taken. I can't wait to go back. Next time I'm going early for the cruise and will visit Adelaide for a few days. :)

............... We thought that your view of the cemetery from your hotel room was amazing. Do you sell your images? I would love to be able to present him with a high-res copy of that picture and can promise that we aren't interested in publishing it.

 

Jean

Hi Jean,

That would be lovely to give him a print. Help yourself. What a lovely compliment!

If the quality you get from here is not high enough send me an email and I'll send you a copy.

rainaburke dot oz at gmail dot com.

Cheers

Montevideo, Uruguay.

Day 33

So off we headed 'Around the Horn".

Montevideo is the capital of Uruguay and sits on the northern bank of the Rio de la Plata, across from Buenos Aires. The country has around four million people with 1.3mill living here.

The city was established in 1724, by a Spanish Soldier Bruno de Zabala.

It was the host of the first ever FIFA World Cup in 1930. They got it as they had won the Olympic Gold at the last games.

It's a modern city with many similarities to Australia.

I went on a tour with a CC group. It was great and saw many of the hot spots. We started with a walking tour of Old Town. It’s set on a peninsular and was walled on the one side at the end of the tongue of land. The wall and the fort are now long gone but a road commemorates it.

After a burst of development in the 70’s, Historical Orders were placed on the old buildings and much was saved. Around Plaza Independencia, Independence Square, there are so many lovely buildings and monuments, then a huge ugly 70’s apartment block. Many stunning building were demolished to build it.

The area is now known as Ciudad Vieja. In it is Peatonal Sarandi, a pedestrian plaza, and is incredibly pretty and of course full of cafes, artist and galleries and nightclubs. Lots of people out eating and shopping, markets everywhere and of course dog walkers. Argentina and Uruguay love their dog walkers.

This guy had 5 large dogs. All perfectly behaved.