Filters for Alaska

I need some advice from some seasoned Alaska cruisers/photographers.

I currently have CPL and ND filters for my 24-70 f2.8 and use them occasionally.

We are taking a late season Tracy Arm cruise and I'm planning to bring my 28-300 walk around, my 150-600 long along with the 24-70 lens.

I don't have CPL filters for the longer lenses and wonder if they would come in handy with the reflected light and whites and blues?

Along with the Fjord cruising I'm planning to walk around Mendenhall Glacier in Tongass National Forest on the Juneau stop. At Skagway we are planning a road trip up the Klondike Highway to Emerald Lake.

Can I get close enough to use my 24-70 for waterfall shots or will I need to use my longer lenses? (and need ND filters)

I've also just fallen in love with a couple of Rokinon wide lenses. 14mm and a 12mm fisheye. Super sharp and fun to shoot with.

The drawback is neither of these will accept filters. (Bulging front elements)

Will I find a need for some sort of polarizer on these?

If so, what?

Thanks

Mark

You likely will want polarizers for each lens that has conventional filter mounts. Its one of the few effects difficult to match in post processing [e.g. Photoshop].

On the other hand, ultra wide angle lenses and polarizers can be troublesome - some portions of the scene can be at radically different angles from the light source, so the polarizer's darkening effect is not constant across the captured image.

I normally hate filters but for Alaska I would have a CPL and ND for pretty much every one that can take them (as noted, except the ultrawides)

CPL's IMHO are over used. If the light coming from the wrong angle they rob you of light. Yes, they can help in some cases but hurt you in others. ND are great to allow slower shutter speed and show the motion of the water but you're on a boat also moving which hurts that idea. Now a graduated ND can be useful but you really need several types. Having the CPL's for you normal zoom really should cover 99.99% of your needs. Your 150-600, I'm guessing, is a f/5.6 at the long end so a CPL would keep it from focusing well if at all with light lost. Also a CPL for those long lenses can be pricey.

So in my opinion you should be fine. FWIW I've had a great FF fisheye for 30+ years. It gets used very little; however, my use of UW is all the time.

framer

Skip ultrawides - Check

Light loss on long zoom - Check

A must for the 24-70 (CPL & ND) - Check

Everyone has covered about everything on the list, so I'll just add that I really like the Hoya Moose Petersen Warm CPL for foliage and scenes where blues tend to overwhelm.

As I remember, there is a trail at Mendenhall that can be followed around to the Nugget Creek waterfall (about a mile each way). It starts right at the visitor's center.

Dave

If you will be taking photographs through windows (bus, train, plane, helicopter, etc.), then a polarizer will be good to have to cut down of glare and reflections.

Tip from BH Photo: Purchase a good polarizer for your largest lens and then adapters down to your other lenses. Of course lens hoods will not fit over the larger polarizer but you don't need them with a polarizer. This use of adapters is also a big cost savings if you choose to use an expensive Variable ND filter.

In Tracy Arm, you should be close enough to several waterfalls to enable using wide angle lenses. It must be noted that the lack of snow melting late in the season may lesson some of the water flows.

As I remember, there is a trail at Mendenhall that can be followed around to the Nugget Creek waterfall (about a mile each way). It starts right at the visitor's center.

 

Dave

That trail is one of the few now that doesn't cost the $10 fee to access.

If you will be taking photographs through windows (bus, train, plane, helicopter, etc.), then a polarizer will be good to have to cut down of glare and reflections.

Note that unless the plane or helicopter has been equipped with special optical glass windows they are likely made of polycarbonate or acrylic plastic. The nature of plastic makes it partially polarize light and shooting through it with a polarizer on your lens can result in bands of darkness and color shifting in your image.

Dave

A must for the 24-70 (CPL & ND) - Check

 

Dave

When did you pick up a 24-70mm? I assume it is a Sony. And what is your opinion of that lens?

Best wishes

When did you pick up a 24-70mm? I assume it is a Sony. And what is your opinion of that lens?

 

Best wishes

A general statement for that zoom range. Still loving the 18-105 G!

Dave