ethan1171

Returning back to the “rat race” after three weeks in paradise is never an easy challenge, however I finally found a little time to upload some more pictures, videos, and close with some thoughts regarding Ponant and this epic New Guinea Odyssey. After crossing the equator we sailed to Kitikiti Waterfall in the Indonesian province of West Papua, in the Bomberai Peninsula. We were offered an afternoon zodiac tour around the bay and then a swim very close to the majestic waterfall and snorkel surrounded by lush nature where we were able to admire the superb Kitikiti waterfall up close. The easter sunset cocktail at the raised Marina with Ilona - the singer and entertainer on board was spectacular that evening. Next day we stopped at Triton Bay. Triton Bay is one of three regions in Indonesia's West Papua province that comprise the Bird's Head Seascape (the other two are Raja Ampat and Cenderawasih Bay), which is now considered by marine biologists to be the epicenter of the Coral Triangle. It contains more fish and coral species than anywhere else on the planet. Its unparalleled marine biodiversity and endemism, habitat richness, and relatively intact nature of its ecosystems are unique. We spent the morning on a phenomenal zodiac voyage through the spectacular rainforest capped karst islands. And in the afternoon we were given the opportunity to have a wet zodiac landing at Pulai Aiduma where we explored the richness of the underwater realm. Again, breathtaking location and snorkeling, however I must admit we are not used to be snorkeling with so many people. Those locations chosen for snorkeling throughout the cruise were amazing however they can get crowded with all passengers and especially those that are not very experienced snorkelers. We ended up waiting until most of the people returned to the boat and then we really enjoyed the beach and seeing the coral. We were the last to jump on the last Zodiac returning back to Le Laperouse! And our final stop, Kei Islands, blessed with kilometres of stunning, yet almost entirely empty, white-sand beaches. We enjoyed a morning of swimming and snorkeling on an idyllic uninhabited picture postcard tropical island. The morning rain did not bother us, actually it was enjoyable due to the heat. Ponant set up a bar at the beach with drinks, champagne and dance music. Amazing experience. And again we were the last ones on the last zodiac back to the ship. We did not want this to end. Day at sea was uneventful and then finally our odyssey came to an end. Truly trip of a lifetime. We disembarked at Darwin and we had the opportunity to take a day tour before heading to the airport. We organized it on our own with one of the local sightseeing companies. Ian our driver was a veteran guide at Darwin and he was exceptional in giving us an in depth explanation of the history and sights of this beautiful city. We visited the downtown, the botanical gardens, the Defence of Darwin Experience, and the Museum and Art Gallery of the Northern Territory. Very impressed with the city and its history. We would love to return back on day and explore more. Our flights from Darwin to Singapore and on to San Francisco were uneventful, and for sure made for a really long day. It was interesting to see many of the passengers, especially the Europeans and a significant number of the crew in the Darwin to Singapore flight. It was almost like being on the ship again. Final thoughts on the cruise. We are continuing to be very impressed with Ponant and we cannot wait to book our next adventure with them. This itinerary was outstanding - being able to see this very remote corner of the world from the luxury of Le Laperouse. All elements exceeded our expectations - the crew, the food, the organizing of the landings and the locations we visited. The maitre ‘D was outstanding. Every meal - breakfast, lunch, dinner, either a la carte or at the buffet was exceptional, fresh and high quality ingredients and a wide variety of options. They did run out of fresh fruit the last the last couple of days - but it was understandable especially since due to the Australian regulations Ponant would have had to dispose all fresh food. Same with drinks, the sommelier went above and beyond with his recommendations and overall presence, the staff at the bar very friendly and by the second day, almost everyone from the staff knew us by name, and could anticipate our needs. Overall Ponant offered a luxurious experience and exceeded our expectations. A few areas where we felt could be an improvement: Disembarkation was a bit confusing. We were given a green tag the day before since we had our own arrangements to transfer to the airport. During the informational session the day before the cruise director said we could disembark at 9am. The daily program stated that we could disembark between 7:30am and 9am. So, we went with the daily program/newspaper and we were off the ship at 8am however our luggage was not off the ship until 9am. So we had to wait at the pier - which was not too comfortable due to the heat. Seems there was a confusion between the cruise director and staff executing disembarkation and printing the daily newsletter. Interestingly this was not the first time we saw discrepancies between what was posted in the daily program and what was announced at the daily briefing the day before. Many of the timings for the landings per color were changed during the cruise. Frankly we did not mind that much since the difference in time was minor and with a small number of passengers it did not matter really. The disembarkation fiasco though was a little more annoying. Entertainment: during our Antartica cruise, we had a main singer, a local folklore band, and dancers. However on the New Guinea cruise we only had a singer for entertainment (well ok and a DJ). We loved listening to Ilona, the singer, and for sure did not feel like we missed having more entertainment however something to note. Maybe because it was a long expedition cruise, there may not be many entertainment options. Naturalists: All of them were very energetic and provided us insights into the local culture, and traditions, flora and fauna of New Guinea. Some of them struggled with their English especially when they had to explain a few complicated biology or cultural terms, we felt they all were all very enthusiastic and eager to explain what they knew. Especially they kept us safe during landings and navigating the zodiacs during very long days for them in the heat. However, we would have liked a little more in depth, more relevant, frequent, and detailed lectures about what we were seeing during the cruise. English vs. French. Of course the primary language at every Ponant ship is French and then English. Our experience at our previous cruise in Antarctica where the majority of the passengers were French was that French was the dominant language throughout. However at New Guinea the majority of the passengers were English speaking (mostly Australians). So although French was first for announcements, somehow we felt that English was more dominant in conversations with the staff, explanations, lectures, restaurant etc. which sort of made sense, although I overhead a few of the French speakers were not very happy about it. Lastly - there was significant downtime during sea days. Some days we had two landings. Most days we had one landing. Most of the landings would not be longer than 2-3hrs. And there were many sea days in between. We are usually very active and find things to do during sea days, maybe because of the size of the trip and the duration of the cruise we felt the sea days being a bit more subdued during this cruise more than any of our other trips. Especially compared to biggest ships. So we had the opportunity to practice and improve our Scrabble skills. 🙂 Every journey must reach its conclusion. This has been an unforgettable adventure, and the memories we've made will last a lifetime.

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"Sing Sing"

@AussieBoyTX has done an excellent and very detailed review of this truly phenomenal cruise so far. Day at sea today and a good opportunity to add a few more thoughts and perspectives to this trip. Prior to boarding we spent three wonderful days in Singapore getting over our jet lag and acclimatizing to the tropical weather. Our flights on Singapore Airlines from SFO to SIN and then on to Cairns were uneventful and as always impressed with the quality of service on SQ both soft and hard product in their ultra long range and regional business class. We stayed at the Pullman Reef Hotel which is just around the corner from the Cairns cruise terminal and an easy 5-10 min walk. However on embarkation day the rain which started in the early morning and intensified as the day progressed, got us totally soaked walking to the pier since we decided it would be silly to take a taxi for that short distance. Pullman Reef is a great choice in Cairns - breakfast was exceptional and the view to the harbor from the sea view suites is especially pretty. Although the rooms are starting to show their age. The hotel staff told us that there are on-going renovations though that might improve things. After a day at sea, Alotau was our entry point to Papua New Guinea. We left civilization behind and got welcomed by the local warriors dancing in a hypnotic rhythm. The heat and humidity added an additional layer of intensity to the experience. But of course we are on a French boat - so after the maddening heat of the tropics we could enjoy a glass of champagne and delectable French cuisine. The food and drinks have been exceptional every single day so far. Variety of choices and everything has been very delicious. Next stop was at the spectacular Tufi "fiords" which plunge over 90 meters deep and rise over 150 meters vertically above the water making for a spectacular backdrop. The traditional way of life plays an important role amongst the villagers with many living in isolated areas along the coast of Cape Nelson and on the slopes of Mount Trafalgar. The area is known for its production of tapa cloth, made from the bark of the paper mulberry tree and skillfully decorated. We traveled by traditional canoes at the ancient mangrove forests of the Fiords to witness one of the most colorful traditional performances in all of Papua New Guinea. After Tufi we landed at the Tami Islands. Kalal, Wanam & Idjan are a small group of uplifted coral atolls, with two main villages on the two larger islands and many smaller reefs and cays. In the center is a beautiful, crystal clear blue lagoon with abundant marine life and stunning coral formations. The islands, located in Morobe Province not far from the town of Finschaffen are seldom-visited. Tami Islanders are renowned artisans and are most famous for their intricately decorated bowls. Madang was our next port of call. During the morning of our landing we were treated to a number of cultural performances showcasing the local customs, costume and dance of the coastal, midland and highland communities. People of the highlands engage in colorful local rituals that are called "sing sings." They paint themselves and dress up with feathers, pearls and animal skins to represent birds, trees or mountain spirits. Sometimes an important event, such as a legendary battle, is enacted at such a musical festival. Madang which was once known as the "prettiest town in the South Pacific". Its peninsula setting is full of parks, waterways, luxuriant shade trees and sparkling tropical islands. The diverse geographical nature of Madang province is reflected in the 170 different languages that are spoken. As we were progressing into the trip and were experiencing more of this remote corner of the world, getting familiar with the local people and culture, also becoming more aware of the difficult circumstances of this beautiful country. Papua New Guinea, a Pacific island nation home to a population of around 10 million, is rich in resources, but its economic growth has long trailed its neighbors and it has one of the highest crime rates in the world. Although a resource-rich country, almost 40 percent of Papua New Guinea’s (PNG) population lives in poverty. The Covid-19 pandemic highlighted ongoing challenges with government inaction, economic mismanagement, and a severely under-resourced health care system. Before Covid-19 started spreading, PNG was already struggling with outbreaks of measles, drug-resistant tuberculosis, and polio with poor vaccination rates. Weak implementation of laws on violence against women and children foster a culture of impunity. As we were watching the last few “sing sing” at Madang, after most of the people left and before returning back to the luxury of Le Lapérouse, I paused so I can reflect that we have been privileged and honored to be given the opportunity to be travelers in this country. And to experience the wonders of its culture. Kopar was our last stop at Papua New Guinea. Before crossing to the Indonesian side - at west Papua. The people of the Sepik region speak more than 250 languages and are knitted together in systems of trade and cultural interaction. Kopar village's location at the mouth of the Sepik river makes it an important trading point for surrounding villages. Here the crocodile is worshiped as the water spirit. As is custom in all Sepik societies, the men's house is the place where important decisions regarding the village are made, where boys are initiated and become men and ceremonies to please the spirits are performed. We were welcomed ashore with a ceremony and cultural performance, which included the famous "dragon dance." Interestingly, a few miles away from Kopar there was an earthquake the day before we visited magnitude 6.9 and just over 40 kilometers deep. Three deaths have been reported by local media. Next stop was Jayapura City which is the provincial capital of Papua province, Indonesia. It is a modern industrial city contrasting markedly with the surrounding hinterland where Papuan tribes live a subsistence lifestyle. The vast majority of Jayapurans are transmigrants from western Indonesia who control most of the industry and economics of the region. Leaving the city behind we traveled to the traditional village of Asai on Lake Sentani. It was an interesting one hour bus ride and then about 20 minutes a boat ride to the island in the middle of the lake. The bus ride was ridiculously hot and when we arrived at the lake the wind had picked up which made for a hair raising and very wet boat crossing. However we enjoyed a cultural performance in a traditional Papuan village. Asai- one of the islands in lake Sentani, is famous for its production of Tapa cloth. The return at four of clock in the afternoon was better since it was a bit cooler and it felt quicker coming back. We sailed away as the Jayapura city was breaking fast during Ramadan. As the sun dipped below the horizon, the port was enveloped in the haunting calls to prayer emanating from nearby mosques. A symphony of fragrant food wafted through the air, mingling with the salty humidity of the bay, creating an enchanting atmosphere for our cruise experience. On Thursday, March 28th, we anchored at Kwatisore, Cenderwasih Bay, Indonesia. Kwatisore is located in Cenderawasih Bay (which means "Bird of Paradise Bay") at the northern point of Indonesia. Cenderawasih Bay is located at the western end of New Guinea Island, south-east of the Bird's Head Peninsula. The marine park of Cenderawasih Bay, declared a national park in 2002, is home to a variety of cohabiting coastal and mangrove ecosystems, coral reefs and insular jungles and tropical forests. The fauna and flora, often unique and endemic, are abundant and hypnotic here. Covering more than 1.4 million hectares the bay is home to an abundant array of uninhabited islands, pristine coral reefs and the world's largest fish, the Whale Shark. Over the years the whale sharks have learnt the habits of local fishermen who catch bait fish at night in nets lowered from fishing vessels known as "Bagans'. The Whale Sharks are now regular visitors feeding on the bait fish that spill from the nets at the surface. Cenderawasih Bay is part of the Bird's Head seascape, the center of marine biodiversity at the heart of the coral triangle. During the last few days the expedition crew gave us the chance to snorkel multiple times and discover these multicolored reefs and extraordinary marine fauna. And especially we had the privilege to swim with the whale sharks. An exhilarating experience of a life time that left us in awe. The whale shark is a slow-moving, filter-feeding carpet shark and the largest known extant fish species. The largest confirmed individual had a length of 18.8 m The whale shark holds many records for size in the animal kingdom, most notably being by far the most massive living non-cetacean animal. This morning we crossed the equator - and we participated in the line-crossing ceremony which is an initiation rite that commemorates a person's first crossing of the Equator. The tradition may have originated with ceremonies when passing headlands, and become a "folly" sanctioned as a boost to morale, or have been created as a test for seasoned sailors to ensure their new shipmates were capable of handling long, rough voyages. We decided to join about 20 of the crew in the initiation. We were hosed down with cold water, faces lathered, and “shaved” with a big plastic sword, then dunked in a bucket of filthy brown soup of organic miasma containing chili oil and other disgusting fishy material and then forced to jump in the swimming pool containing a dead octopus and other large dead and smelly fish - with another 30-40 people including the captain. We were told by other passengers that this was one of the largest and more elaborate line crossing ceremonies they have experienced. When we got back to our cabin to clean up a wonderful certificate of our crossing of the equator line was waiting for us at the door. I must say this was one of the most "disgustingly" memorable cruising experiences for me. Five more days to go. We are looking forward to Kitikiti Waterfall, Triton Bay and Key Islands. We have been truly blessed to be on this cruise and experiencing all the miracles of Papua. Photos included in the next post. Also I will include a lot of videos but although the internet speed on this ship is not bad, I will wait to upload them next week when we get home.

Maybe this is why it was sold out almost immediately after it was offered....! I am so looking forward to it. I am very much enjoying your reports on Tasmania Circumnavigation. Le Laperouse and her crew look amazing.

what cabin / category were you on and can you please post pictures of the cabin any advice regarding the restaurant experience? were tables for two available by the window or only sharing with a large group? thank you

From my last cruise:

From the Ponant web site:

Such lovely report Jim! Wonderful to follow through your adventures. We used to be almost your neighbors - we used to live in Mountain View in the late '90s and 20 years ago moved at the coast in Half Moon Bay. Truly amazing Bay Area 🙂 My husband and I took our first Ponant cruise when we went to Antarctica last year and we were super impressed and can not wait for our next voyage with them in Papua New Guinea. I have posted our experience in Antarctica here - https://boards.cruisecritic.com/topic/2832398-on-lyrial-feb-20-emblematic-antarctica/ but definitely less detailed than yours. Maybe I can learn and do better on our next one with Le Lapérouse We have cruised extensively with Princess - (30+ cruises) and after just coming back from one in the Western Mediterranean (Barcelona- Gibraltar - Marseilles - Genoa - Florence - Rome), with Enchanted Princess, one of those mega cruise ships, and reading your report, I could for sure appreciate what Ponant offers in a smaller and much more intimate cruise experience. We love Princess for what they offer - their product is actually pretty good, we usually get a mini-suite for a great price and tons of benefits due to our status, and their itineraries are great so I am sure we will continue with them. Especially we love the no-fuss/no-having-to-fly-the-other-side-of-the-world sailings out of San Francisco to Alaska or Mexico or Hawaii - just a quick 1hr drive from our home to the cruise pier and we are on and can relax for the next 10 days ! It is difficult to compare with Ponant though - it is like apples and oranges. Ponant's itineraries are unique, and also the scale, intimacy and French inspired culture on board make it a very different cruise experience in my mind. It is a different world. I agree about the culture of the fellow passengers with Ponant and how civilized, orderly, less stressful and polite everything feels - embarkation / disembarkation / on board experience. Meal service etc. Also in way at Ponant after a few days you get to know both the crew and your fellow passengers and develop friendships. The barman at the Panoramic lounge knew and brought our preferred cocktails before dinner before we even asked... And in a way - especially now after the last few years (....) - we truly appreciate the European and French first approach. The usual Ponant cabin - although much smaller than other cruise lines - is very tasteful and functional and as coffee addicts we appreciate the nespresso machine and top of line tea - and nicely stocked fridge. For sure one of the areas where we appreciate a larger cruise ship is the wider selection of options for dinner and entertainment - especially at our last cruise we truly enjoyed Catch by Rudy, Crown Grill, Sabatini's, Gigi's pizzeria etc. And since both Michael and I like to walk a lot - we have a lot of options at the decks and stairs 🙂 to walk up and down to burn those calories. I remember at our Antarctica cruise after 10 days sailing we were ready for a change of our dinner venue. Actually let's see how our next 16 day cruise would be 🙂 Ponant is amazing and can't wait for our next trip with them.... --e

We just came back from our western Mediterranean cruise - in one of those mega ships 😉 ...and it is amazing to have this cruise next. Ready for it - but we have to wait for a few more months. I am not surprised it is fully booked. We have secured our flights and a few days in Singapore prior to the start of the cruise. This one will be epic.