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RHexplorer

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  1. Hi Dreamer75,

    Some examples of the Russian food we tried was the cabbage roll, various soups (including borscht), kvass, pelmeni and others whose names I have forgotten.

     

    Since we have been back at home, we went to the local Russian supermarket and picked up a bottle of kvass and a package of pelmeni's. Pelmeni's are similar to perogies but filled with meat instead. They are closer to a Japaness goyza, Italian tortellini or Chinese xiao long bao.

  2. Hi Dreamer75,

    The staterooms were comfortable. Our room (426) did not not have a pole in the middle of the room but I know many of the other staterooms (30% or more) did have one. The bathrooms on any cruise ship or river boat is small. The bed was firm and everything was in excellent condition. No stains, chips or broken anything.

     

    Food is subjective. I deliberately ordered the items on the menu that were identified as local dishes. It was good, but not "wow". I did not starve and despite all the walking that we did, I still gained 3 pounds on this trip. We live just north of Toronto, one of the most ethnically diverse cities in North America. We are already spoiled by the wide variety of food already available to us.

     

    Excursions were great. Both the included ones and the optional ones.

     

    We would rate both of the Viking rivers cruises higher than our ocean cruises (Norwegian, Carnival, Royal Caribbean, Princess and Celebrity). We will still go on ocean cruises but feel that the level of service and quality of the cruise has become "watered-down" as the industry expands. To us, river cruising was like ocean cruising twenty years ago, better service and quality of product.

  3. Hi Dreamer75,

    Sorry for the delayed response, I have not a chance to check in on the boards lately.

     

    My wife and I enjoyed this trip immensely. It would probably rank a 9 out 10 for us.

    - Weather was perfect (it only rained 1 day).

    - The rivers, canals and lakes were calm.

    - This was our second trip with Viking, and I am sure it will not be the last.

    - The onboard and local guides provided by Viking helped enhance our trip with their in-depth knowledge of the places we visited. It is easier to ask questions with a real person than follow an audio guide in a museum. In our case, the onboard Viking guide was also licenced to conduct local tours in St. Petersburg. So on our visits to the palaces and the Hermitage, she was a wealth of information, from identifying brush strokes and small details on da Vinci and Rembrant paintings.

    - Many excursions are included as part of the cruise package. I would admit that if it were the normal "pay per excursion" plan, we would have skipped a few of these excursions. Yet, this is where our vacation got better. By attending these excursions (since they were already included), it gave us a new perspective of the culture and traditions of the Russian people.

    - The intent of this trip was to travel and experience a different part of the world, not lie on a beach. The trip achieved this goal completely.

    - As with any vacation, go with an open mind, don't let minor inconveniences bother you.

    - On this trip, everything right for us. Flights were on time, no diversions on the river, great conversation with fellow passengers. We did not want to come home.

     

    Hope your trip will be equally enjoyable.

  4. You're welcome. This board has always been a valuable source of information to me.

     

    Other items that came to mind:

    • When you check-in, Viking holds your passport for the first day. Probably to show Russian authorities when everyone has boarded. You can get it back the next day and lock it in your room safe. You don't need your passport to go ashore.

    • When you go ashore, you hand in your room key and reception will hand you a credit card sized ship ashore pass. This has your name and room number on it. It also has the port address in Moscow and St. Petersburg, in Russian on the back. So if you get lost, a taxi can get you back to your ship.

    • When you return to the ship, you hand in your pass for your room key. This enables Viking to keep track on who is ashore and who is onboard.

    • We were warned and reminded about pick pockets in Moscow and St. Petersburg. A couple of passengers that failed attempts happen to them in St. Petersburg. Both occurrences were at the Hermitage, where it was very crowded, with tour groups and people constantly jostling for space.

    • Currency is Roubles. Coins come in 1, 2, 5, 10 roubles. Bills are 50, 100, 500, 1000 and 5000 denominations.

    • Our Viking guides provide advice on each tour whether ATMs are available.

    • Viking advises tips to be in US$, so you only need Roubles for local cash purchases

    • Currency on the ship for shore excursions and on-board charges is in Units, which is equivalent to Euros. Yes, it is a fictitious currency. Viking alluded that is was a work around to meet Russian regulations. It seems they either have to use Roubles or a non-country currency. Hence. The "Unit" currency.

    • The Viking guides also plan for washroom breaks before or after the tour. Most are free, but there were two occasions where we had to pay. Once at the Yaroslavl City Market (15 Roubles per person) and the other time at the Peter and Paul Fortress (20 Roubles pp) in St. Petersburg.

    • We took mosquito repellent on this trip, but did not need it at any of our stops. However, if you have space I would pack some, in case you need it.

    • We should have take sun screen and a hat, the weather on our trip was warmer than normal.

    • Viking provides umbrellas for your use. Sometimes there is an umbrella cart near the gang plank, when it is obvious that is going to rain. If not, just ask reception and they will get it for you.

     

    We never encountered any open animosity or hostility during our visit. But remember you are a guest in a foreign country. The Russian people have a different perspective on current "hot" world issues. It is best to leave politics behind and enjoy the rich history and culture of the Russian people.

  5. Viking Ingvar – Waterways of the Tsars –July 5 to 17, 2014

     

    Day 1 – Moscow - Embarkation and First Impressions

     

    We booked our cruise, flight and ship transfers with Viking for this trip and landed at Moscow’s Sheremetyevo airport at around 1:30PM local time. After clearing customs and retrieving our luggage, we met the Viking representative and then waited for the other 16 fellow passengers from our flight before boarding our bus for transfer to the Viking Ingvar. Yes, it is true, Moscow traffic is very busy, even on a Saturday afternoon, there were many times when it is bumper to bumper traffic. As usual the coach drivers are very good, while our bus ride from the airport was a little slow, it quite smooth and uneventful. Upon arrival at the river port, we saw that there were 5 Viking ships (Ingvar, Helgi, Akun, Truvor and Rurik) tied up dockside.

     

    As we have come to expect from Viking, there were staff there to greet you with a warm smile and a clean wash cloth, if you needed one. Check-in took less than one minute, then we were lead to our stateroom by a Viking crew member. We had selected a balcony cabin on the fourth deck.

     

    Upon entry into our cabin, I can only say that Viking has done a great job in renovating and maintaining the Viking Ingvar. Our balcony cabin was larger than the balcony cabin on the new Viking longships and everything was clean and in good working order. All drawers and doors worked, there were no stains on the carpet, ceiling or bedding, chips on the furniture, the bed was firm and comfortable, and the bathroom clean with lots of hooks and hanging bars. There were two comfortable metal and mesh deck chairs along with a side table located on our balcony. The balcony was approximately six feet deep by 12 feet wide.

     

    We had dinner aboard then attended the orientation session and afterwards it was off to bed to close out a long (36 hours) travel day.

     

    One more thing, Viking’s standards and training seems consistent across the company. Similar to our experience aboard the Viking Tor, all the crew and officers greeted you personally whenever you passed them in the hall.

     

    Day 2 – Moscow - Morning at your leisure and safety drill. After lunch our tour will take us into Moscow’s Red Square via the subway.

     

    Today was a late start with no tours scheduled until the afternoon. Viking offered two options for their included tour. Take a bus to Red Square or take an escorted subway ride to Red Square. We chose to ride the subway to see some of Moscow’s famous subway stations. The walk from the ship to the subway stop was about 15 minutes because we were berthed further away. The closer berth would have been a 10 minute walk to the subway station. The subway fares were included in the Viking excursion but if you wanted to go into town on your own, the cost would be 40 roubles for one ticket, 80 for 2 and 160 for 5. After visiting 2 stations, we emerged from the underground at Theater Square. This square is right next to Red Square. We were then given 1-1/2 hours to explore Red Square, St. Basil’s Cathedral and the Gum department store. Next we moved onto Christ the Saviour Cathedral, past a monument to Peter the Great, and a walking tour along the bank of the Moscow River, to finally meet up with our bus. On board was a snack box for you to eat on the bus or at a nearby park. Then it was onto to see a Russian Folkloric show. Afterwards, it was back to the ship for a late (9:30pm) dinner.

     

    Day 3 – Moscow - Optional excursions or a day at your leisure plus an evening Moscow canal cruise.

     

    We chose to skip the daytime optional excursions, deciding instead to take the subway back into Moscow to explore a few more subway stations, then headed over to the Arbat Street pedestrian area to find somewhere to eat and to explore. We were specifically looking for a restaurant that served Russian food, so that we could experience the dishes first hand. We eventually decided on the Varenichnaya No 1 restaurant about half-way along our stroll of Arbat Street. After lunch, we continued our walk to the end of Arbat Street. This was where we stumbled onto the Ministry of Foreign Affairs building. After a few photos, it was time to head back to the ship, via subway, to relax for a few hours, have dinner and get ready for the evening canal cruise.

     

    Upon our return to our cabin, there was a note from Viking (2 days after boarding) that there wasn’t enough space for us to go on the next day’s Moscow Armoury tour. This was disappointing because we wanted to see the Faberge eggs. We had signed up when we arrived on the board the Ingvar but noticed in Viking’s on board cruise summary that this tour was noted as a “pre-cruise booking”. Nowhere in any of our travel documents did we ever see any opportunities to book excursions prior to our cruise. Had we been informed earlier in the morning, we could have adjusted our “free” day from subway stations to going to the Armoury on our own. This was what some other passengers did on their “free” day.

     

    The evening canal cruise was just okay. Because of Moscow’s location in the northern hemisphere, it does not get completely dark. Therefore, some of the buildings that we sailed by did not have their lights turned on yet. Also, we felt Paris and Budapest have a better “wow” factor along the banks of the Seine and Danube, respectively.

     

    Day 4 – Moscow - Kremlin visit and sail away from Moscow.

     

    Our visit to the Kremlin required you to pass through a security check and we were given a set of rules to follow: stay on the sidewalks and only cross the street at the designated crossings. This is because the Kremlin is a tourist site and the actual location of the Russian president and the government. Our tour consisted of a walking tour of the grounds of the Kremlin and a visit to a few cathedrals and a walk through the Kremlin gardens.

     

    Day 5 – Uglich

     

    This is a half day stop in the afternoon. Uglich is a small town north of Moscow that was settled over 1,000 years ago. We visited their version of the Kremlin where Dmitry, the 8 year old son of Ivan the Terrible was murdered. Our next stop took us to a home hosted visit to talk to a local family. It was interesting to see and hear about the way of life of a local Russian family. We also sampled sole local moonshine.

     

    Day 6 – Yaroslavl – City tour and market visit

    This was another half day stop and it rained on our cruise for the first time. We still went out on the Viking tour to see the town, hear about Yaroslav the Wise (must be a relative of Gandalf :)) and visit the city market.

     

    Day 7 – Kuzino

    The sun came back out but the temperature was still a little cool. We visited a local school and then went to see the Krillo-Belozersky Monastery. Afterwards, we returned to the dock where Viking put on a Viking Show for us.

     

    Day 8 – Kizhi

    This morning we were given a bridge tour where learned some things about the Viking Ingvar (more on this at the end of this write up) from the first officer. We arrived at Kizhi Island after lunched and went ashore for our tour. The Transfiguration Church is being renovated so you could not go inside. However the smaller Intersession Church is open to visitors.

     

    Day 9 – Mandrogi

    This was a half-day morning stop at an artists' colony on an island. This is the place to try the Russian Banya experience or hand paint a Matryoshka doll. I thought this was going to be one of the weaker stops of our cruise but it turned out to be the opposite. We could have used another 2-3 hours at this stop. According to our on board local tour escort, this is the place to get your Matryoshka nesting doll. The local artisans spend days and weeks painting these dolls. We learned that 5 is the minimum with the maximum being 60. There was a set of 49 dolls on display in Mandrogi. The level of details painted on these dolls is simply amazing. The smallest doll is the size of your fingernail. I need my reading glasses to see details on this tiny doll.

     

    Day 10 – St. Petersburg - Catherine Palace and City tour

    We arrived at our final destination early this morning. After breakfast we boarded our bus to visit the Catherine Palace. We returned to the ship for lunch, then it was back onto the bus to start our city tour of St. Petersburg. We drove down Nevsky Prospekt, visited the Peter & Paul Fortress, the Church of the Spilled Blood and St. Isaac’s Cathedral. This sampling left us with the feeling that we would like to come back and spend a week or two in St. Petersburg alone. After dinner, we went to the optional Cossack folkloric performance

     

    Day 11 - St. Petersburg - The Hermitage and Russian ballet

    Today we went to the Hermitage and then chose to stay in town for the afternoon before attending the ballet performance of Swan Lake. The Hermitage is like the Louvre, you are only going to see a sampling of artwork on display. You could spend days exploring this museum. However, in July it is very crowded. It would be better to come back in the fall or if you want the place to yourself, visit it in the winter. After our tour we had five hours before the ballet, instead of going back to the ship, we stayed at the Hermitage for a few more hours, then explored some of the city as we walked over the theater.

     

    Day 12 - St. Petersburg - Peterhof Palace and Canal cruise

    We boarded our bus after breakfast to drive over the see the Peterhof Palace. When we arrived we were the first group there and had to palace to ourselves. Our guide told us that this was only the second time in 13 years that she has experienced this. Compared to the crowds at the Hermitage, this was heaven. The tour of the palace follows a guided path so we were always the only people in the room, since we were the first group. Our tour ended at 10:45am so that we could go outside (and join the crowds) to see the fountains start up at 11:00am. After some free time to explore the gardens it time head back to the ship for lunch. We signed up for the afternoon canal cruise of St. Petersburg. This was much better than the Moscow canal cruise. Afterwards it back to the ship to pack and get ready to go home.

     

    Day 13 - St. Petersburg - Disembarkation

    We had almost perfect weather for this cruise and today was no exception. Temperatures were a few degrees warmer than normal with each day being sunny and 25 to 29 degrees. The only blemish was on our visit to Yaroslavl, where it rained during our visit. It also rained during the Cossack performance and the ballet performance, but by time the shows had ended, so had the rain. So we were not affected by the rain.

     

    Today was travel day for everyone with the first group leaving at 3:00am and the last at 1:30pm. Our flight was at 10:00am, so we disembarked at 7:15am. True to Viking standards, they supplied a full size coach to take 12 of us to the airport, which was a 15 minute drive.

     

    Musings and Random thoughts

    • We learned that the Viking Ingvar was built in 1990 and its’ displacement is 3,800 tons.

    • The ship docks in St. Petersburg during the winter and is frozen in by ice.

    • From our observations when walking past open cabin doors on the fourth deck, the following cabins have a pole in the middle of the stateroom near the bed: 412, 413, 414, 415, 416, 417, 422, and 423. Cabins 418 and 419 have a double poles (about a foot apart) in their rooms. You will notice similar poles in the public spaces of the ship so they are probably there for structural reasons. Thus the cabins on the lower floors (3 and 2) may also have poles in their rooms. When comparing cabins on different decks, note that 312 is not below 412, instead it is 302, so 302 may have a pole in their room as well. Perhaps other travellers can verify this.

    • From my research online, most of the cruise companies have to use Dmitriy Furmanov class of cruise ships when operating in Russia. Viking promotes that they actually own their ships instead of leasing them. Thus, Viking has made some modifications to their vessels. Some of these changes are noticeable when passing a sister ship from another cruise company.

    • Viking has removed the windows of the passenger cabins on decks 3 and 4, and replaced them with sliding doors and balconies. It seems that they made extensive renovations to the interior of the ship as well. The passenger cabins were expanded from the original sizes, thus reducing the passenger capacity. This is noticeable when I was on my balcony. You could see the welds where the windows used to be, as they do no line up with sliding doors that replaced the windows. From every other passenger ship that we passed on the river, the Viking ships were the only ones with a balcony. All the other ships had operable windows with a promenade deck going around the perimeter of the ship. So if you want a balcony, you will have to book with Viking.

    • Part of the sundeck on deck 5 is sheltered, whereas on other cruise lines, their sun deck is completely exposed.

    • In both, Moscow and St. Petersburg, the ships dock 2 to 3 abreast. This means that from your balcony, you will be looking into another cabin a few feet away. While you can close your drapes (or choose not to), if you sit out on your balcony, you will not have any privacy. This would be okay for a day or two but since you spend 7 out of 12 nights in Moscow or St. Petersburg, which means your balcony view is impeded on more than 50% of your cruise.

    • The coffee/expresso/hot chocolate machine outside the restaurant uses syrup for your drink. It would nice to get a cup of coffee from real beans.

    • There are now two places to see the Faberge eggs, the Moscow Armoury and the Faberge Museum in St. Petersburg. Viking offers an optional excursion to the Moscow Armoury but not the Faberge Museum.

    • There were two optional tours (Moscow Armoury and Privileged Access to the Hermitage) from Viking that was noted on their onboard tour list as "pre-cruise booking". However, no one that we talked to (other passengers and the program director) knew anything about this. Both tours had limited space and seems some passengers were given an opportunity to sign up for these tours prior to boarding the ship. Nowhere in any of our travel documents or online at the Viking website did I see the opportunity to sign up for these tours prior to the cruise. While we were not interested in the Privileged Access to the Hermitage tour, we did want to go to the Moscow Armoury. During the orientation talk on the first day of our cruise, the Program Director told everyone that as long as you signed up for each tour before the deadline, there would be no confirmation provided. You should just assume you are going on the tour and show up at the designated meeting time. Thus it was disappointing to receive a note from Viking at the end of our "free" day and the night before the morning tour ( two days after the submittal deadline), that we would not be going on the Moscow Armoury tour. Had we been told one day earlier, we could have tried to go to the Armoury on our own, as other passengers had done.

    • When talking to another passenger who went on the tour, they were proactive and went to the reception desk the day before to confirm whether they were going on the Armoury tour. At first, reception said they could not confirm, but after some persistence, they were able to get confirmation that they were included on the Armoury tour. So, lesson learned, if a certain tour is important to you be proactive and follow up.

    • The busy schedule in St. Petersburg and the limited operating hours of the Faberge Museum did not permit us an opportunity to attempt a visit the museum.

     

    I did take some photos during the cruise (1,391 to be exact) with some of them of the interior and exterior of the Viking Ingvar. I will try and post them later or you can send me your email and I will send them to you.

  6. We traveled on the Viking Tor from Nov 24 to Dec 1, 2013 on their Danube Waltz itinerary. This was our first experience on a river cruise and it was a memorable one. Even though the temperature on our cruise was colder than the average temperature for the season, as long as you dressed for warmth, it was okay. We were able to experience Christmas markets at almost every stop on our cruise. Our sailing direction was from Budapest to Passau. When researching online, I found that most Christmas markets usually open between the last week of November and the first of December. A December sail date would assure you of being able to visit the Christmas markets.

     

    Budapest – In 2013, the opening of the Christmas market was delayed, so while the stalls/huts were being assembled while we were there (Nov 24-25), we did not get to experience it. However, this is a beautiful city, we will come back.

     

    Bratislava – This was our favourite market(s). There were two Christmas markets setup in Bratislava. One was in the old town and the second (larger market) was on the outside of the old town. The second market was a 5 minute walk from the first market. The second market was also a less than 10 minute walk back to the ship. The second market had an outdoor skating rink surrounding the Christmas tree. There were rentals available if you wanted to go skating. We walked through both markets and preferred the slightly smaller market in the old town. This market was located in the town square that was surrounded on three sides by buildings. We loved this market because it was packed, shoulder to shoulder with locals, even though it was a Tuesday. You could feel the festive energy all around you. We even skipped dinner on the ship, choosing instead to eat and drink at the market. We simply went to the stall with the longest line and eat with the locals. Later, when we wanted to sit and warm up a little, at the open end of the square, there was the café Maximilian that served very good hot chocolate and pastries.

     

    Vienna – Vienna had six Christmas markets that you could go to. Viking provided you with a map of the city showing the locations of these markets. During our tour of downtown Vienna, we walked past the downtown market, but it does not open until late afternoon. We had purchased the optional afternoon tour for Schonbrunn Palace and there was a market on the palace grounds. After our tour of the palace and walking the grounds, we spent 1 to 1-1/2 hours walking the market. This market had a mixture of 20% food and 80% goods for sale. I couldn’t resist, so I purchased a pretzel at one of the stalls.

     

    Melk – There was no market in Melk.

     

    Linz & Salzburg – The shipped docked in Linz, but we did not tour the town. Linz is used as a docking place to board a bus to go to Salzburg. Our walking tour of Salzburg included stops about Mozart and the Von Trapp family. There was a market in old Salzburg in front of the cathedral, but we did not have a lot of free time after our tour, so we were only able to walk through the market but not linger.

     

    Passau – We overnighted in Passau and our cruise ended here also. Passau is a small German town at the confluence of the Danube, Inn and Ilz rivers. Of course, there was a market in front of St. Stephen’s Cathedral. This market was split 50/50 between food and Christmas goods for sale. In keeping with our previous stops, we sampled the local food.

     

    In conclusion, all of the Christmas markets were pretty and festive, plus they definitely helped make our cruise memorable. While all of the cities and towns that we visited had places to see and visit throughout the year, the presence of the Christmas markets only made our visit more special. Most of the items for sale in the markets was in keeping with the holiday season, but we really enjoyed sampling the local food even though the food on board the Viking Tor was tasty as well.

     

    The Viking longships are beautiful sailing vessels and the officers and crew seem happy. Any time you passed someone on board or in town, they smiled and said hello to you. There was a discussion one evening about tips by the program director. It was meant to emphasize that tips are strictly voluntary and you are under no obligation to pay them out. However, based on the performance of the Viking staff, we happily put more than the recommended amount into an envelope and deposited it at the front desk.

     

    Other things that Viking did to make our cruise comfortable were:

    • The use of head sets to conduct their tours.

    • Bottled water was given to you as you departed the ship for your tour.

    • They were waiting with warm face towels for you on your return from the tour.

    • The organ concert in Passau was not on our itinerary but Viking purchased tickets for everyone to attend and enjoy.

    • Munich airport is 2 hours drive from Passau, yet Viking transferred passengers to the airport in 45 minute intervals. Our group consisted of 10 people and they drove us to the airport in a full sized motor coach. They could have made our group go with the earlier group and wait at the airport 3 hours before our flight. Instead they were considerate of us and let us sleep in an extra 45 minutes.

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