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Help! Which camera Sony A6300 or A6500?


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I am weighing my options between the A6300 and A6500 and would really appreciate some input. I am just beginning my exploration into the world of photography and would like to start out with a good camera. After much research and several visits to our area camera stores I had decided on the Sony A6300. After further price checking; however, I have found that for $300 more I can get a nice bundle with the A6500. So now, I’m stuck.

 

Both packages include the 18-135 lens, a memory card, camera case, and some other goodies. The biggest difference is that the A6300 also comes with a standard 16-50 lens.

 

My husband and I are taking our taking an Alaskan cruise in September this year and I really want to have some time to practice before we leave. He has more experience than I do with photography but it has been some time.

 

Sorry for the long post. I just need to know from someone who has some experience with these cameras if the added features on the A6500 are worth the $300 extra? Thank you in advance for any input.

 

 

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I recently had to make the same decision, and purchased the a6300. Several years ago, I bought the a6000 and have loved it. This spring I decided to get another Sony body so I could have the a6000 as a backup for traveling. After considering the differences between the a6300 and the a6500, I decided that the added features of the latter (including the touch screen,which I really have little use for) were not worth it to me. I can't recall the price difference at the time, but it was several hundred $$.

 

The 16-50mm kit lens came with my a6000. It's a nice little lens and the camera is incredibly light with that lens mounted on it. Obviously, with the 18-135mm lens you would not "need" the 16-50 (although it does give a bit more width), but you might not always want to be walking around with the bigger lens.

 

Whichever you buy, there are plenty of free resources on the internet to help you with your learning curve.

 

I don't think you can go wrong either way... Enjoy your new camera and your trip!

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I recently had to make the same decision, and purchased the a6300. Several years ago, I bought the a6000 and have loved it. This spring I decided to get another Sony body so I could have the a6000 as a backup for traveling. After considering the differences between the a6300 and the a6500, I decided that the added features of the latter (including the touch screen,which I really have little use for) were not worth it to me. I can't recall the price difference at the time, but it was several hundred $$.

 

 

 

The 16-50mm kit lens came with my a6000. It's a nice little lens and the camera is incredibly light with that lens mounted on it. Obviously, with the 18-135mm lens you would not "need" the 16-50 (although it does give a bit more width), but you might not always want to be walking around with the bigger lens.

 

 

 

Whichever you buy, there are plenty of free resources on the internet to help you with your learning curve.

 

 

 

I don't think you can go wrong either way... Enjoy your new camera and your trip!

 

 

 

Thank you for your quick response. Those were my thoughts initially,and I probably shouldn’t have second guessed myself.I believe you’re absolutely right, either way it’s a win and I can’t wait to get started!

 

If anyone else has more to add, your thoughts are welcome. Thanks!

 

 

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With those packages, I would go with the a6300 to get the smaller pancake lens (for pocket use) and spend the $300 towards a lens with a little more range (at minimum the beercan 55-210). I'd rather have the versatility than the tech functions.

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If anyone else has more to add, your thoughts are welcome.

Here is a comparison of the two cameras.

 

Even more than the touchscreen, the biggest difference seems to be the a6500 has image stabilization, which apparently provides 5 steps of shutter speed advantage. In other words, if you normally could take a particular photo at 1/100 sec. shutter speed without camera shake, the a6500 would allow you to take the same photo at 1/3 sec. shutter speed without camera shake.

 

That would be an enormous difference for photography in low light, or photos taken at longer focal lengths (more zoom).

 

I can't tell you whether that's worth $300 to you. In addition, your lens may (or may not) have image stabilization.

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For $300? Oh absolutely take the 6500. Purely for the image stabilization. ESPECIALLY as beginners. As you get better, you'll be quicker with the settings so you can minimize the need for image stabilization, but if you have it, you know when you can push it to get shots you couldn't before.

 

As a beginner, you won't know quite as well what shots are iffy, but with image stabilization, they'll just show up clean and you'll just be happy without fully knowing which pictures the IS helped out a ton on.

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The benefits of IBIS-stabilization are being a bit exaggerated in this post. Most lenses for the A6300 already had OSS -- optical stabilization. It does the same thing as IBIS.

The benefit of IBIS is for lenses that don't have OSS, like the Sony Zeiss 24mm/1.8. For lenses with OSS, it might provided slightly improved stabilization.

In other words.... take the 24mm focal length.... With a non-stabilized lens, you could successfully shoot it at 1/30 to 1/50.... With OSS, Call it 1/6 to 1/12... with IBIS+OSS, call it 1/4 to 1/8. (These are rough estimates based on my own experience).

 

So first question -- would you benefit from IBIS. Look at the lenses you would likely get immediately and in the future. Do they already have OSS or would you benefit significantly from IBIS.

 

If you are using OSS lenses anyway, the other notable differences are:

-- Much deeper buffer. You can take a 44 image burst with the A6300 -- hold down the shutter button for 4 solid seconds, which is plenty for most people. But if you want to shoot continuously for 10 seconds or more, then the A6500 has value.

-- Touch screen, which some people definitely like to have

-- Improved menu system, though still pretty bad.

 

Personally, I wouldn't pay $300 extra for the A6500 unless I was planning on using non-OSS lenses.

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When Dave, Justin and/or Adam speaks, listen!

 

 

I truly appreciate everyone’s input, thank you! I know who Dave is (Pierces) because he always signs his posts, but I’m not sure who Justin or Adam are. I’m not even sure if that information is in their profile somewhere? I’m assuming maybe havoc and gambit? But you know what they say about assuming... ;)

 

 

 

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Havoc is Adam. I'm Justin. Along with Dave, we all have long experience with Sony bodies, especially mirrorless...so we throw out our opinions all the time, when asked and sometimes when not. ;)

 

I would agree and emphasize what Adam said - IBIS is a good thing to have, but some have overstated a little bit how much more valuable it would be when comparing these two cameras and kits. All of the lenses you're looking at have in-lens stabilization, so the in-body stabilization might work with it and gain you an extra stop, maybe - you will already have 3-5 stops of stabilization from the lens. So the $300 difference to the A6500 buys you in-body stabilization which will add somewhat, a touch-screen, and a larger buffer (meaning if you hold the shutter button down and take a bunch of frames at a fast frames-per-second rate, it can keep going for longer before it hits the limit and slows down). Otherwise, there is very little difference between the two cameras. If the larger buffer doesn't really matter to you (ie: you don't take 200 photos in 18 seconds at 11fps), if you don't really feel the need for a limited-use touch screen, and since you already are going to have stabilized lenses either way, saving the $300 might be worthwhile...and the extra 16-50mm kit lens while not necessary and a bit superfluous when the 18-135mm will cover almost all needs, could still be useful when you want to make the camera as discreet and small as possible. And you could always sell that compact kit lens for $25-50 or so and use it to buy an extra battery, or something else useful. That additional $300 savings could buy you a nice fast prime lens.

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Havoc is Adam. I'm Justin. Along with Dave, we all have long experience with Sony bodies, especially mirrorless...so we throw out our opinions all the time, when asked and sometimes when not. ;)

 

I would agree and emphasize what Adam said - IBIS is a good thing to have, but some have overstated a little bit how much more valuable it would be when comparing these two cameras and kits. All of the lenses you're looking at have in-lens stabilization, so the in-body stabilization might work with it and gain you an extra stop, maybe - you will already have 3-5 stops of stabilization from the lens. So the $300 difference to the A6500 buys you in-body stabilization which will add somewhat, a touch-screen, and a larger buffer (meaning if you hold the shutter button down and take a bunch of frames at a fast frames-per-second rate, it can keep going for longer before it hits the limit and slows down). Otherwise, there is very little difference between the two cameras. If the larger buffer doesn't really matter to you (ie: you don't take 200 photos in 18 seconds at 11fps), if you don't really feel the need for a limited-use touch screen, and since you already are going to have stabilized lenses either way, saving the $300 might be worthwhile...and the extra 16-50mm kit lens while not necessary and a bit superfluous when the 18-135mm will cover almost all needs, could still be useful when you want to make the camera as discreet and small as possible. And you could always sell that compact kit lens for $25-50 or so and use it to buy an extra battery, or something else useful. That additional $300 savings could buy you a nice fast prime lens.

 

 

 

Thanks Justin and Adam, and everyone else for your guidance. I went ahead and ordered the 6500. I know both cameras would have been great. It should be here Friday so I’ll have all weekend to play. Maybe I’ll even post one of my attempts!

 

Kelli

 

 

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It should be here Friday so I’ll have all weekend to play.

Practice is hugely important. I leave on vacation soon, and I've been practicing since December (and practicing with my older camera during the same period).

 

For any function that interests you, try to at least test it before your vacation. If possible, practice with it. (I tested the Live Composite function on my camera by setting it up and doing a few test shots in my living room. I practiced with the smartphone app/remote trigger by using it to take a head shot of me to post on LinkedIn.)

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I leave in 50 days for Alaska and intend to practice as much as possible, as well as read as much material that I can (including these forums) .

 

While I want to capture as many memories as possible on the cruise, the camera will hopefully be more than that. I hope it becomes a great hobby. I’ve gardened for years, but as I get older it is SO much work and not as enjoyable as it once was. I’m super excited to start and while I say “play” I’ll be “practicing” and learning every chance I get; and who knows, maybe I’ll get some nice photos of all those gardens to commemorate all that hard work.

 

 

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The Sony's require a LOT of practice. Even if you know what you're doing as a photographer. The menus and stuff aren't the most... intuitive. Our friends bought an a6000 and a7rII respectively right before our last trip together. Didn't practice at all or read the manual. Many shots unusable because she couldn't find the right settings in time.

 

We've had the a7III for a little while now and have the presets how we want it. Still find the camera's behavior... funky. Need lots more practice.

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For new users I strongly recommend leaving it in on intelligent+ and at most use scene modes...

 

The Sony's require a LOT of practice. Even if you know what you're doing as a photographer. The menus and stuff aren't the most... intuitive. Our friends bought an a6000 and a7rII respectively right before our last trip together. Didn't practice at all or read the manual. Many shots unusable because she couldn't find the right settings in time.

 

We've had the a7III for a little while now and have the presets how we want it. Still find the camera's behavior... funky. Need lots more practice.

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Practice means PRACTICE!

 

 

It does not mean finding a beautiful scene/place/person/object and fire away.

 

 

It could be just adjusting speed and lens opening and ISO on whatever in various times and light - even at high noon!

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For new users, I recommend taking a photography class.

 

 

 

I live in a small town of 1200 people, so there aren’t any photography classes offered locally. I work for the local newspaper who publishes the community papers for three area towns. Our owner/publisher has offered to give me lessons and since he takes all of the sports photos for the area high schools and most of the other pictures used in the papers, I know he’s very knowledgeable. He did, however suggest the Olympus *****-D E-M10 Mark II, or the Mark III, or he said he was especially partial to the Fujifilm X-T20. I’m hoping when he sees my Sony he’s still up for helping me!

 

I’ve actually take quite a few pictures for the paper but they’re usually just photos of people making area donations, ribbon cuttings for the local Chamber, or kids at the summer reading program at the area library; those type of community events. I use one of the paper’s Pentax cameras but seldom do more than get everyone in the picture. They are however good enough for print, so I must be doing something right!

 

 

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Until you have time to train, the intelligent mode works very well. Also learn how to use the the different scene modes (especially low light), and that will get you through most shots setting wise and you can focus on well, focusing (and composition). If it comes down to it, you can easily fix minor exposure issues etc with a program like lightroom, but you can't fix blur or chopped off heads.

 

I live in a small town of 1200 people, so there aren’t any photography classes offered locally. I work for the local newspaper who publishes the community papers for three area towns. Our owner/publisher has offered to give me lessons and since he takes all of the sports photos for the area high schools and most of the other pictures used in the papers, I know he’s very knowledgeable. He did, however suggest the Olympus *****-D E-M10 Mark II, or the Mark III, or he said he was especially partial to the Fujifilm X-T20. I’m hoping when he sees my Sony he’s still up for helping me!

 

I’ve actually take quite a few pictures for the paper but they’re usually just photos of people making area donations, ribbon cuttings for the local Chamber, or kids at the summer reading program at the area library; those type of community events. I use one of the paper’s Pentax cameras but seldom do more than get everyone in the picture. They are however good enough for print, so I must be doing something right!

 

 

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Practice means PRACTICE!

 

 

It does not mean finding a beautiful scene/place/person/object and fire away.

 

 

It could be just adjusting speed and lens opening and ISO on whatever in various times and light - even at high noon!

 

Well said. That's what I mean by practice. As many different settings and situations as you can.

 

Bizarrely, a lot of Sony users in the wild seem to make full use of the high frames per second. They're in beautiful locations... and they just fire away. You'll be in, say, Antelope Canyon, in the dark, looking to shoot sun beams, everyone is on 30 second shutter speed or higher, and the Sony user will be shooting away like a machine gun (personal story). I've seen it in a lot of places.

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Well said. That's what I mean by practice. As many different settings and situations as you can.

 

Bizarrely, a lot of Sony users in the wild seem to make full use of the high frames per second. They're in beautiful locations... and they just fire away. You'll be in, say, Antelope Canyon, in the dark, looking to shoot sun beams, everyone is on 30 second shutter speed or higher, and the Sony user will be shooting away like a machine gun (personal story). I've seen it in a lot of places.

 

Not to defend any particular Sony users as I'm sure as with any camera brand there are lots of newbies and amateurs who don't understand concepts like long exposures, BUT...

A rare few times when you hear multiple shutters going off with a Sony camera, it doesn't mean they're cluelessly standing at night using a burst mode...sometimes, they may actually be using the camera's multiple-exposure-stacking modes. In low light situations especially, where you may not have a tripod available, it allows one to shoot night scenes with high ISOs and through stacking images, virtually eliminate noise while also rebuilding detail in the scene. Most Sony models have either a 6-frame stack mode, or newer ones offer a 4-frame stack OR an 11-frame stack.

Sometimes, even the complete newb who is just shooting in 'intelligent auto' will even end up in these modes without knowing what they are - Sony's Intelligent Auto is different from standard 'auto' mode because it will analyze the scene and use the 'scene' modes if it deems it to be appropriate. Since HHT (Hand Held Twilight) and AMB (Anti-Motion Blur) scene modes both use multiple-frame stacking, iAuto shooters may actually end up using those modes and you'll hear their cameras rattling off 6-frame bursts.

Even as a long-time photographer, who does a LOT of night shooting with tripod and long exposures, I regularly use MFNR ISO mode (multi-frame noise reduction) when traveling and walking around at night, where I didn't feel like bringing my tripod - I can still take scenic night landscapes using ISO6400, but taking 6 MFNR frames which stack into one, and deliver noise-free night scapes similar to using a tripod at ISO200. Quite convenient, especially places like Disney in the summer when it's 88 degrees at night and humid, and I just don't want to stand there for 4 minutes setting up a tripod and firing off 30 second exposures!

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Not to defend any particular Sony users as I'm sure as with any camera brand there are lots of newbies and amateurs who don't understand concepts like long exposures, BUT...

A rare few times when you hear multiple shutters going off with a Sony camera, it doesn't mean they're cluelessly standing at night using a burst mode...sometimes, they may actually be using the camera's multiple-exposure-stacking modes. In low light situations especially, where you may not have a tripod available, it allows one to shoot night scenes with high ISOs and through stacking images, virtually eliminate noise while also rebuilding detail in the scene. Most Sony models have either a 6-frame stack mode, or newer ones offer a 4-frame stack OR an 11-frame stack.

Sometimes, even the complete newb who is just shooting in 'intelligent auto' will even end up in these modes without knowing what they are - Sony's Intelligent Auto is different from standard 'auto' mode because it will analyze the scene and use the 'scene' modes if it deems it to be appropriate. Since HHT (Hand Held Twilight) and AMB (Anti-Motion Blur) scene modes both use multiple-frame stacking, iAuto shooters may actually end up using those modes and you'll hear their cameras rattling off 6-frame bursts.

Even as a long-time photographer, who does a LOT of night shooting with tripod and long exposures, I regularly use MFNR ISO mode (multi-frame noise reduction) when traveling and walking around at night, where I didn't feel like bringing my tripod - I can still take scenic night landscapes using ISO6400, but taking 6 MFNR frames which stack into one, and deliver noise-free night scapes similar to using a tripod at ISO200. Quite convenient, especially places like Disney in the summer when it's 88 degrees at night and humid, and I just don't want to stand there for 4 minutes setting up a tripod and firing off 30 second exposures!

 

 

I can see that.

 

But the Antelope Canyon one was a photography tour where a tripod was required and it was full speed shots until the buffer filled, pause for the buffer to dump, and then full speed until filled again. The other situations I've seen didn't always have tripods (mountains, national parks, etc), but it was the same thing. Highest speed shots until buffer filled and repeat.

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There's always some in the crowds for sure. Sort of like all the people shooting a distant landscape from an overlook at night with their flash firing away. Though the most guilty parties for that nowadays seems to be the phone shooters!

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