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Live from The Shadow, HK to SNG


CruisinPashmina
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Please take a few moments to post with reports. Thanks.

 

That's my plan. First time on the Muse and boarding with an open mind, recognizing that part of negativity is resistance to change, although I must admit Whisper is a hard act to follow....;)

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We board Muse on Friday -- and I've been told it is a sold out voyage to Dublin. Imagining they are taking on a load of Irish in New York.....:rolleyes:

Dusababy

 

Agreeing with sakaara: why the eye roll?

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Saigon is a crazy place. The motor scooter traffic would terrify the calmest of persons. We were there overnight, and while many passengers took evening excursions and many more had dinner plans off the ship, I collapsed in my cabin. The cause of the collapse was several hours of intense heat, coping with torn up sidewalks, dodging traffic, and about 20 minutes spent in the huge market. A friend and I took the shuttle into the center of the city in hopes of a pleasant afternoon. It is chaotic, and really not in a good way. This was my 4th visit to Saigon. The first visit was a little more than 20 years ago, and the most recent was 2 years ago. There is no way to describe all the huge changes...even in the last two years. More, much more traffic. High rises being built everywhere. And the famous market was a stifling, jammed nightmare filled with cheap “stuff” and (mostly) very aggressive sales ladies yelling and shoving goods in your face. The aisles are barely wide enough for one person to get thru. I remember this place as being lively and actually shopable..even for a mostly indifferent shopper. It was lots better even two years ago. I know my friend was also disappointed.

 

The next day, today, my friend and her seriously mobility challenged husband, offered to treat me to a van, driver and guided private tour. The guide hadn’t been warned that we were not going to get out of the van at any point. He was very frustrated as this was a circumstance he probably had not dealt with before. He kept trying to convince us to get out and tour two museums, walk thru gardens, go to picture galleries/shops and to the ubiquitous lacquer factories. This was not an option so we simply drove around for two hours and took in the street scenes in air conditioned comfort. Now that I didn’t feel threatened by being killed or at least crushed by the wild traffic, I was able to really enjoy things. I even began to notice the much better maintainence of the city’s gardens....most were well planted with flower borders and trimmed shrubs. I was impressed.

 

Another thing I noticed is that there are many huge, very posh shopping malls. Looking around, even in the area of the 5 star hotels, I didn’t see any people who looked like they could afford all the fancy French and Italian brands. And I saw very, very few people carrying labeled shopping bags. Today was a Saturday and if there were rich Asian weekend visitors, they were not obvious. It’s a mystery!

 

 

Back in time for my first SS pizza..so good..and even better with a glass of Malbec. The wines are the best I can remember on any recent cruise. Karolina does a very good job in helping make decisions if one isn’t thrilled with the day’s pour. Actually all the wine stewards are extremely helpful. Great Crew!

 

Day at sea tomorrow!

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Saigon is a crazy place. The motor scooter traffic would terrify the calmest of persons. We were there overnight, and while many passengers took evening excursions and many more had dinner plans off the ship, I collapsed in my cabin. The cause of the collapse was several hours of intense heat, coping with torn up sidewalks, dodging traffic, and about 20 minutes spent in the huge market. A friend and I took the shuttle into the center of the city in hopes of a pleasant afternoon. It is chaotic, and really not in a good way. This was my 4th visit to Saigon. The first visit was a little more than 20 years ago, and the most recent was 2 years ago. There is no way to describe all the huge changes...even in the last two years. More, much more traffic. High rises being built everywhere. And the famous market was a stifling, jammed nightmare filled with cheap “stuff” and (mostly) very aggressive sales ladies yelling and shoving goods in your face. The aisles are barely wide enough for one person to get thru. I remember this place as being lively and actually shopable..even for a mostly indifferent shopper. It was lots better even two years ago. I know my friend was also disappointed.

 

The next day, today, my friend and her seriously mobility challenged husband, offered to treat me to a van, driver and guided private tour. The guide hadn’t been warned that we were not going to get out of the van at any point. He was very frustrated as this was a circumstance he probably had not dealt with before. He kept trying to convince us to get out and tour two museums, walk thru gardens, go to picture galleries/shops and to the ubiquitous lacquer factories. This was not an option so we simply drove around for two hours and took in the street scenes in air conditioned comfort. Now that I didn’t feel threatened by being killed or at least crushed by the wild traffic, I was able to really enjoy things. I even began to notice the much better maintainence of the city’s gardens....most were well planted with flower borders and trimmed shrubs. I was impressed.

 

Another thing I noticed is that there are many huge, very posh shopping malls. Looking around, even in the area of the 5 star hotels, I didn’t see any people who looked like they could afford all the fancy French and Italian brands. And I saw very, very few people carrying labeled shopping bags. Today was a Saturday and if there were rich Asian weekend visitors, they were not obvious. It’s a mystery!

 

 

Back in time for my first SS pizza..so good..and even better with a glass of Malbec. The wines are the best I can remember on any recent cruise. Karolina does a very good job in helping make decisions if one isn’t thrilled with the day’s pour. Actually all the wine stewards are extremely helpful. Great Crew!

 

Day at sea tomorrow!

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Wow, what a rich post, CP (if I may call you that). It sounds like you more than earned a relaxing sea day -- I hope you enjoy it!

 

Your impressions of HCMC are especially helpful because of your familiarity from past visits, and your experience with chaotic traffic practices in other Asian cities. After all, it's not like this was your first time. As I am not a fan of cities in general, and we will also have an overnight in HCMC, your post gave me pause in the midst of my exuberant planning. I had been looking at possible HCMC excursions just yesterday, in fact.

 

Did you meet (or overhear) anyone who did the Saigon Twilight excursion? It begins with a sail on a junk, then ventures into the city for dinner. Seems like viewing the city by junk might keep the craziness at bay (pun not quite intended). It seems that anyone who has issues with sensory overload (myself included) might need to have some strategies for managing the city's intensity. I'm so glad that you and your friends got to explore the next day at a more comfortable remove.

 

One other question: was Shadow able to dock in the city, rather than down where the larger ships are?

 

Looking forward to hearing more, and to following in your footsteps next year,

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Unibok, The Shadow docks right in town...very convenient starting point for all the excursions including the evening one. The best I can report on this one is that a lot of people participated and I have heard nothing negative. I’ll try to ask around.

Beautiful, sunny sea day with a calm ocean. Perfect!

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Hello again CP from an about to dock Silver Discoverer in Kumamoto, Japan.

 

I first visited Saigon in 1996 and my last was in 2011. Your evocative description of city life was therefore fascinating and very sad. Although unfortunately HCMC is not the only city to deteriorate due to mass tourism. You and I are fortunate to have had the best of times there.

 

Looking forward to more news

 

Kindest regards

 

Master Echo

 

PS Sir and Madame send their regards, and Edgardo also wishes to be remembered to you. They are hoping to see his daughter in Manila.

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I recall from a visit to HCMC several years ago that the sales ladies in the market adopted a different technique to get your attention. They would pinch you on the arm. That got my attention momentarily but certainly not a sale! I had bruises after a visit. The market is my definition of a hell hole.

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One other question: was Shadow able to dock in the city, rather than down where the larger ships are?

 

Yes as CP has said, its one of the big advantages of cruising on a small ship. On the day I was there last month (and the Shadows last visit) we were joined by Silver Whisper and Seabourn Sojourn - and Queen Mary was out on the coast on the same day too.)

 

I was a little disappointed in HCMC as well, (my first time) but mostly because the tours I took werent very good. I actually quite enjoyed walking around the market - and the intimidating traffic after a while wasnt a problem it felt like in the beginning. I intend to try to get back next year.

 

Ive started going through my videos... and just uploaded this one which will show you not only where she docks, but the journey as well

 

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Yes as CP has said, its one of the big advantages of cruising on a small ship. On the day I was there last month (and the Shadows last visit) we were joined by Silver Whisper and Seabourn Sojourn - and Queen Mary was out on the coast on the same day too.)

 

I was a little disappointed in HCMC as well, (my first time) but mostly because the tours I took werent very good. I actually quite enjoyed walking around the market - and the intimidating traffic after a while wasnt a problem it felt like in the beginning. I intend to try to get back next year.

 

Ive started going through my videos... and just uploaded this one which will show you not only where she docks, but the journey as well

 

 

Hi Les, I love the video, and look forward to more! I remember seeing your photographs last month, but the video really gives a sense of how far up the river we will be, and where the smaller ships are in relation to the river cruises.

 

Thanks, too, for sharing your impressions of the city. I was the person who asked you about the FITO traditional medicine museum, and if I remember right, you said the whole foodie excursion was not well organized. Good to know. I may follow CP's lead and book a private jaunt. Of course, things may change in the next 10 months :)

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I recall from a visit to HCMC several years ago that the sales ladies in the market adopted a different technique to get your attention. They would pinch you on the arm. That got my attention momentarily but certainly not a sale! I had bruises after a visit. The market is my definition of a hell hole.

 

:o OUCH!

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  • 4 weeks later...

A month after the cruise, after rereading my day to day, almost, reporting, I realized that I hadn’t summed up. I also left out Hoi Ann Vietnam. So, maybe a little stale...but, here I recap.

 

First Hoi Ann. I took a cooking class in the most amazing cafe, retail space, restaurant on two floors and a full floor of separate classrooms. Our assigned room was large with long tables and two gas fired burner cookers on each table. My table had three of us eager students. We learned to make rice paper rolls, a chicken course, and a green mango salad. It was great fun, but I felt that I wouldn’t be able to recreate what I learned as the spices, and the herbs were much too different from what we grow here in America.

 

After the class, we were led around this lovely historic town. Half way thru the walk around, while sitting in the entrance reception area of an extremely old merchants’ house, I realized that my late husband and I had been there about 20 plus years before. The place was almost unrecognisable. It was pretty rough when he and I visited, but now it was gorgeously restored. As I said..unrecognizable...almost. The original family is still there.. I actually think I remembered the ancient brother and sister who, now are one almost, and the other,over 100 years old. My friends wonder why I go back to so many places I have visited before...this is why! The comparisons are fascinating. That I had completely forgotten visiting Hoi Ann, was a little disconcerting, but somewhat understandable considering the really big changes.

 

Everyone was given about 30 minutes to wander on their own. A lovely Australian lady, also alone, asked me if i’d Like to join her. It was so hot, and neither of us felt like shopping, so we found a nice cafe and had a beer and a chat. A serendipity!

 

The ride back, along the Coast/China Beach was amazing and in a very surprising way. Marriott, Four Seasons, Ritz Carlton and lesser players were all there on the beach..the beautiful beach...cheek to jowl. This was a good time to have a thoughtful moment. I was thinking all these international resort companies were spoiling the coast. But, for the Vietnamese, these luxurious fantasies meant jobs, progress and definitely a way around communism. Our guide, a darling, very knowledgeable young woman was up front about how the people, even those who wanted Communism, were looking for concessions. As she quietly said; “ We found it was not what we had been led to believe it would be”.

 

To try to sum up the three plus weeks I spent:

It was a wonderful cruise. Of course I had a marvelous time with my daughter and niece on segment one. The second segment, now sailing without my “kids”, but with dear English friends was HOT, but very, very interesting. The Shadow looked great and the crew was spectacular! Hard to explain but this was an especially very “happy ship”.

 

Next up will be a little over three weeks on The Wind at the very end of August, sailing in the Baltics, and winding up at Tower Bridge. See you all then!

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A month after the cruise, after rereading my day to day, almost, reporting, I realized that I hadn’t summed up. I also left out Hoi Ann Vietnam. So, maybe a little stale...but, here I recap.

 

It is amazing to see how Vietnam has changed sides for the better in the last half dozen years. We wish the Vietnamese people well. On the other hand, China's new (and perhaps last) emperor has become ever more belligerent in trade and in the South Sea, building tiny tidal coral reefs into artificial military structures against the world court rulings, claiming an entire sea just because a trade expedition has been sent there six hundred years ago in the Ming dynasty is a blatant offence to international law. Hopefully our President Trump will have the determination to deal with this, with force when necessary.

.

Edited by meow!
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Crusing Pashmina-

 

I went to the same cooking class and really enjoyed it. I have tried a few things at home, but as you say, coming up with the correct ingredients is a bit of a challenge. Did you also walk through the market dodging motor scooters on the sidewalks?

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I also left out Hoi Ann Vietnam. After the class, we were led around this lovely historic town. Half way thru the walk around, while sitting in the entrance reception area of an extremely old merchants’ house, I realized that my late husband and I had been there about 20 plus years before. The place was almost unrecognisable. The ride back, along the Coast/China Beach was amazing and in a very surprising way. Marriott, Four Seasons, Ritz Carlton and lesser players were all there on the beach..the beautiful beach...cheek to jowl.!

 

Appreciate your mention of Hoi Ann and the other details from this thread. In February, we super enjoyed Hoi Ann as detailed on my live/blog below. Very interesting history there and it is so amazingly photogenic. Super enjoyed this part of Vietnam, especially as we were there in the time period leading up to their fun and colorful Lunar New Years holiday.

 

THANKS! Enjoy! Terry in Ohio

 

SE Asia/Mekong River, Etc.! Just completed a Jan. 21-Feb. 20, 2018, first adventure through Southeast Asia with stops in Hong Kong and Bangkok, before traveling all over Vietnam and Cambodia. This includes seven days sailing on the Mekong River. Lots of fun, interesting pictures!! See more at:

www.boards.cruisecritic.com/showthread.php?t=2591474

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  • 2 weeks later...
I don’t think I would return to Saigon. The traffic, the smell, the heat and humidity... I’d go back to Bangkok or Singapore, though.

IMG_0369-M.jpg

Could not agree more! We failed to find the charm of Saigon unless you like rats in the market. The tour to the Mekong Delta was sad due to the amount of litter that went on for miles. Bangkok was wonderful, by comparison, and I would love to return. We have changed our flights to give ourselves an extra day in Singapore next year.

 

Aren't we fortunate to have these choices!

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