Machu Picchu to close for seven weeks!

[marazul]

So far, PeruRail has only been rolling lightweight "autowagons" on the tracks. The reason was to allow the new trackbeds to settle. Today's newspaper says that starting next Monday, April 19, locomotives will run again on the Piscacucho-MP route. This must be the reason for the info I received yesterday about issuing a new train schedule within a couple of days.

 

If you go to the website now, they have one set of timetables in the "Temporary Timetables" link and if you pick a specific date, a different set comes up. So, it's a mess. I would wait and see what they come up with next.

[j2ink]

This certainly is a mess. So far, my train is still listed in the temporary services schedule on the PeruRail website, so that's a good thing. However, it really is getting old searching the websites every day to see if the train has been canceled, and I'm also trying to figure out how I am going to get admission tickets to MP before they sell out on the day I have the train tickets for.

 

I was told that people would be required to have train tickets before they could purchase admission tickets in Cusco. This could be how they are going to limit the number of admissions each day, however, I don't know if it is true.

 

Even if it is true, I still have a problem (although smaller), because I was planning to pass through Cusco very early in the morning on the way to the Sacred Valley, and then take the train from Ollanta to MP a few days later. If the admission tickets are only sold at the INC office in Cusco, I'll need to stay in Cusco until the ticket office opens.

 

I know --- Boo Hoo!

 

I'm lucky MP is even going to be open when I get there.

[marazul]

j2ink,

 

I know. We do have our (new) tickets thanks to our Cusco friends. However, to play it safe, we are leaving MP in the 10:37 train instead of the 15:20 train which seems to come back in and out of the schedule. The 10:37 seems to have a guaranteed slot - or so we sincerely hope.

 

I really think you'll be fine. They are making progress. I know that we like things to be predictable, but that is not the case over there. There is every chance that the admission ticket situation will change again and they will start selling them again as usual. Wait until next week and see what the announcements are with the new schedules.

 

Some of the news I didn't translate were that the residents of MP were planning strikes and demonstrations because of the lack of access to the trains for local passengers and cargo. However, they withdrew the threats when PeruRail announced that the locomotives will start again next Monday. This means many more passengers will be able to travel to MP. Also, the bridge to Pisac will reopen tomorrow, so additional road routes will reopen to the valley. This will save you time driving to the valley so you can spare the time to wait at the INC office if that's still the case in June.

 

The added train capacity starting next week should alleviate the controls they now have on admission tickets. Anyhow, keep cool. You have time.

[marazul]

In today's paper:

 

Admission e-tickets to the MP ruins will be sold in the internet starting in about a month. Tickets will continue to be sold at the INC offices in Cusco and at MP. ("Continue" is a bit puzzling since they have only been selling them at the INC in Cusco - whatever.)

 

If regular trains started running on Monday no one is saying anything about it. And the train schedule has not changed. It still shows the "autowagons."

 

Also, some of the scheduled times keep disappearing from the schedule and mysteriously coming back.

[marazul]

OK, today is 4/21, not 3/22. I clicked on the "title" line and the date of an old post "popped up." Although, if you think this is driving me to confusion, you would be right.

[marazul]

The Perurail website now has the new train schedules for May 1 through June 30. They do include the combined bus/train tickets from both Ollanta and Cusco (Wanchaq station). The train portion still starts in Piscacucho.

 

Actually, there is a discrepancy in the footnotes. The Spanish website says the bus/train schedule (operation of conjuncture) is from April 21 to June 30. The English website says from May 19 to June 30. If you go to the specific dates you are interested in, you should be able to get the right schedule.

 

More trains have been scheduled and it includes two classes of backpacker train: traditional and remodeled.

[j2ink]

It is interesting that the PeruRail prices now include the bus again.

 

However, now my train no longer appears on the PeruRail schedule. Bummer! I went to the webpage to reprint my ticket, thinking that it may indicate that the ticket had been canceled or that they may have put us on another train. However, nothing has changed, and it still indicates we have tickets for the train no longer on the schedule.

 

I think I'll wait a few days to see if things continue to change. If they don't, I'll try to contact PeruRail via email. That should be interesting.

[marazul]

j2ink,

that was the problem I was having since we also had tickets purchased in January - just before the floods. At first I thought they would reschedule us to an available train, but nothing happened, not even a reply to my many emails (in Spanish, to make sure). Our friends in Cusco said that the person in charge of the tickets is totally incompetent and/or totally overwhelmed. Do check your ticket to see if the departure time or the train number corresponds to a train in the current schedule, in which case you are ok. You can still make your own way to Piscacucho, it's just that PeruRail will not guarantee you a seat if you miss the train (that's normal). If your train number is not on the schedule, start emailing now. As a last resort, you may have to buy new tickets and demand a refund for the first set.

 

The tickets our friend exchanged for us are still fine. So we are ok for the moment.

I would not be surprised if there are more changes.

M

[greatam]

Our friends in Cusco said that the person in charge of the tickets is totally incompetent and/or totally overwhelmed.

 

I have to laugh. They probably hired one of the many, many people who just hang out in the Cusco train ticket office. That really wouldn't surprise me.

[Jeep61]

We arrived at LAX about five hours ago so please forgive any typos. As I noted on the "Anybody Back" thread the Celebrity Xpedition experience was wonderful - the staff, the ship and the wildlife were exceptional. We stayed in Quito for an extra day (11 day package from Celebrity) to rest and take the cable car up to 13,000 feet - also a great experience.

 

All of our arrangements for Peru were made through Martha at South American Vacations based in Florida - the arrangements were flawless: met at the Lima airport, escorted to the terminal for the flight to Cusco, private driver/guide met us and drove us to Urubamba (Hotel Sol Y Luna) for a two night stay. It was a long travel day but we stopped many times along the drive and began learning about Peru's history. The hotel was beautiful and the restaurant was top-notch! Both Cusco and Urubamba showed signs of the recent floods - large blue tarps and piles of rubble, but all services seemed to be functioning. On our first full day we visited the ruins at Pisac and Ollantaytambo - my husband began calling himself a "mountain goat" after the climbing at both sites - I was not as adventuresome! The countryside was awesome and the information we learned from our guide, Lucio, was excellent.

 

The following day we were off to Machu Picchu by 5:30am - the drive to Piscachucho was over an hour - half of which on a very bumpy dirt road - really bumpy! During the ride we saw how extensive the damage to the railbed was - - huge gap a few miles before Piscachucho. Looked like it was far from repaired in that particular area. We boarded the Inca Rail train at 7:00 for the 80 minute ride to Aguas Calientes. Along the tracks we saw many spots where the railbed had been repaired - at these spots the train slowed to a crawl. Upon arrival in AC (where we also saw the impact of the floods) we were again met by a private guide who accompanied us to the bus to MP. We were staying at the Sanctuary Lodge for one night. The hotel staff were very helpful and we rested for about an hour before starting our private tour of MP - words cannot describe the impact of seeing the site for the first time. Everyone we asked said the tourism was in full swing even though the train capacity was not at normal levels. We toured for about three hours, rested for a few hours and returned in the late afternoon for sunset. The next day we rose early to watch the sunrise over MP - another awesome experience. At no time was the site crowded - there were group tours and many young people who were doing some serious hiking! We returned to the lodge for breakfast, re-entered MP for another few hours and then had lunch at the lodge before a couple of hours of relaxing on the terrace of the lodge. In total we spent ten hours within the MP site and enjoyed flawless weather. We returned to AC at about 3:30 and wandered about until the Peru Rail 5:50pm train. Yes, were on the train when it was dark and we endured the bumpy dirt road at night! It was a 2.5 hour drive to Cusco - - not the most enjoyable aspect of the experience. Machu Picchu was indescribable to say the least!

 

We arrived at our hotel in Cusco (Casa Andina Caterdral) which was around the corner from the main square. We spent a full day on a private tour with Lucio of the old town highlights and then about four Inca sites in the hills surrounding Cusco. Another great, yet tiring day! The next morning we were picked up and driven to the airport for a noontime flight back to Lima. We were met by a private driver/guide for a city tour of Lima and Miraflores - yes, another interesting and information day before returning to the international terminal for the long journey back to California. That was our experience following the Xpedition cruise. It was a perfectly executed six day/five night visit to Peru. Tourism is bouncing back after the floods we are pleased to report. BTW - on April 22 and 23 the trains were the "autowagon" variety.

[marazul]

Great report! Can't wait to get there. Thanks.

[janmcn]

Jeep61: VERY interesting report since next month my husband and son are doing almost the exact same itinerary as you and we were worried about what the trip would be like now. They, too, are being driven to Sol y Luna where they'll stay 2 nights (and have a private tour to Urumbamba, etc.) and then take the train/bus, etc. to MP and stay one night at Sanctuary Lodge, then back to Cuzco for one night...nice to have your take of what is happening there now. How many soles did you find you needed to have "on hand" for your trip all in all (tips, entrance fees, etc.)?

[Bobocasey]

Jeeps, thank for the report. We are also using SAVACATION in Sept. but we are doing MP first and then the Xpedition. We can't wait!!!

[Coolcruise02]

Thanks for the current info!

[dileep]

[Jeep61]

How many soles did you find you needed to have "on hand" for your trip all in all (tips, entrance fees, etc.)?

 

We really only needed soles for tips for the wonderful guides/drivers which averaged to the equivalent of about $15 to $25 per day. Everything else was pre-paid or included. We used credit cards for our dinners at Sol Y Luna and Cusco. We did buy bottled water and soda every day but that did not amount to much. If you are an avid shopper and might buy significant quantity of gifts than you would need soles for that - we bought only trinket-type stuff and spent in cash only about 300 soles for t-shirts, hats, a book on the region, a bit of jewelry, etc. The bargaining was fun and nothing we bought cost more than 50 or 60 soles. I hope this helps but everyone will have different spending patterns.

[janmcn]

Thanks, Jeeps...it was helpful to know your spending since it parallels what my son and hubby will do...and also to know that the hotel took CCs....

[marazul]

Things must be getting back to normal. Today's paper only reports the latest political brouhaha over MP - the instalation of portapotties in the middle of the sanctuary where they may show up in tourist photos.

 

And I wish you all happy travels (and good luck j2ink). We are leaving for South America and will return at the end of May.

[j2ink]

Marazul,

 

Thanks for all the great information, and have a wonderful trip. We will be anxious to hear how your trip went.

[xcountry]

I think you mentioned that you were traveling with just carry-on -- how did that go? What happens to your carry-on when you get to Baltra? Do you have to carry it on with you on the zodiac?

 

Also, when you toured the Urubamba Valley, were there specific sites that you would highly recommend seeing? Thanks for posting your report here and on the monster thread -- glad to hear you had a great trip!

[Jeep61]

I think you mentioned that you were traveling with just carry-on -- how did that go? What happens to your carry-on when you get to Baltra? Do you have to carry it on with you on the zodiac?

 

Also, when you toured the Urubamba Valley, were there specific sites that you would highly recommend seeing? Thanks for posting your report here and on the monster thread -- glad to hear you had a great trip!

 

We gave up on carry-ons! We used two 22" rollers which we checked through to Quito. Our carry-ons were two back packs which contained the camera gear and a very small laptop - plus meds and essentials. We had packed two duffels inside the rollers. We left one suitcase at the hotel in Quito with the "warmer" clothes for Quito and Peru. We moved all the Galapagos stuff to the two duffles and also left and empty 22" roller at the hotel. The backpacks were with us all the time. The duffels became our checked bags for the Galapagos portion of the trip and we never handled them since Xpedition took care of all checked bags. I think the duffels were easier for them to handle since they were certainly lighter in weight than any roller bag. When we got back to the hotel in Quito we moved everything from the duffels to the roller bags - one contained what we would use in Peru and the other one was to be checked in luggage storage at the Lima airport. The one bag for six days in Peru was sufficient considering that we still had the two backpacks. When we were back at the airport for our return flights to LAX we checked both rollers all the way through. MIA was a very long walk from gate to immigration to baggage claim to customs so we were very happy not to be coping with more than the backpacks.

 

That's a long answer but it worked very well for us - - every time we re-packed we eliminated some "one way tripper items" like underwear, shoes and t-shirts! The bottom line is to pack light!!!

 

As for the "must -sees" - we loved the ruins in Pisac and Ollantaytambo, the churches in Cusco were amazing, but the overall general scenery and coming upon an Inca ruin along the way was wonderful. The towns them selves were pretty dusty and drab but the people were happy and the historic sites were wonderful. I should add that our guide, Lucio, from savacations.com was perfect!

[xcountry]

Thanks for the low-down -- we are still planning on using carry-ons (or at least attempt to... time will tell once departure day comes around!). If we do use carry-ons, will we be taking them off the plane in Baltra ourselves and carrying them onto the pangas ourselves? Just want an idea of what to expect.

 

We are traveling with small kids, so will certainly put Ollantaytambo and Pisac on the list. Don't want to overdose them on "another site". How did you find the food? Also, did you stay at the Sanctuary Lodge? How do the meals work?

 

Thanks for information!

[j2ink]

Today's Cusco newspaper indicates that June 30 is still the expected date that rail service will resume between Cusco and MP. Most of the track is ready to go, but the section from Chilca (kilometer 77) to Piscacucho (kilometer 82), has four points remaining to be repaired, with the most critical at kilometer 79.

 

The newspaper also has an article about the intended implementation of an on-line system to purchase tickets to MP. Although the article was fairly long, I don't believe it gave any projected date for the implementation of this system.

 

The train schedule on the PeruRail website seems to have stabilized, so I sent PeruRail an email requesting that my June 28th reservation be changed, because the train I have a reservation on is no longer on the schedule. I received the following reply:

 

We have installed an extra button in our webpage now. It says reprint e-ticket. Just enter your e-ticket number and the system will say if you’ve had any change of schedule to the new services.

 

I tried this, but the system did not indicate there was any change in my reservation. I informed PeruRail of this, and received the following response:

 

Do not worry. The reason that your train ticket has not been changed is because the modification has to be done [within] 30 days before the departure date. That means on May 28th. If by May 29th your ticket has not been changed, please contact us again in order for us to help you with the modification.

 

Well, I am somewhat worried, and now I just have to hope that there will be space available on a train close to the time I want to go when they get around to changing my ticket.

[xcountry]

Thanks for the update. Hope Marazul is making her way through Peru and to Machu Picchu okay. We "had" a reservation as well for the train, so I suppose it is time to start figuring out if our reservation will be in place or if we have to make different arrangements!

[Jeep61]

Sounds like they are making good progress in repairing a huge chunk of missing rail bed that we saw on the drive to Piscacucho - believe me, it was a big repair job with heavy machinery and trucks hauling rocks to fill in the gaps. I'm impressed that it may be done so soon! You will be lucky to avoid the road to Piscacucho - really, really bumpy but we were happy it was in service! (We went to MP on April 22 and returned on April 23 - that's progress for only three weeks!)