Almost Live from the Shadow: 22 Feb - 8 Mar, Singapore to Hong Kong

[Unibok]

Okay, the cruise hasn't started yet, but I've arrived in Singapore! Holiday has officially begun!

 

Changi Airport is as quiet and clean and easy as everyone said it would be. Signage is clear and plentiful, everyone seems to want to be helpful (even the other passengers!), and English is widely spoken. Immigration took very little time to clear, and in no time at all I was finding my way through the MRT system. Knowing I would have excess energy after a 3.5 hour flight and a 2.5 hour time difference, I decided to use my arrival to begin learning the public transportation system. Seriously, it was easy. I would have enjoyed it more with only 1 bag instead of 2, but even that was quite do-able and felt enough like a workout by the time I got where I was headed.

 

Shortly after immigration clearance, there were several ATMs for getting Singapore dollars -- which feel a bit like very thin plastic, not paper. Spotting the tourist pass kiosk, I purchased a 3-day pass for tomorrow, Wednesday, and Thursday (S$30 includes unlimited train and bus), and an EZ Link for today and Friday (airport-to-hotel, then hotel-to-pier). Easy peasy, and so inexpensive. I'll have loads of luxury onboard starting on Friday, so I relished expending the extra effort today.

 

Other cities could take some lessons from Singapore's MRT in terms of user experience and clarity. Signs over the door illuminate not only what stop you've just left, but also the entire route yet to come. You can easily see if you are headed in the wrong direction -- what a concept! Stops are also numbered and not just named, so you know if your stop is a higher number or a lower number, and can choose your track accordingly. So simple, and so effective, but unheard of in the cities where I've lived or visited. 

 

Cars are clean and uncrowded, trains come with great frequency, the doors stay open an appropriately long amount of time, so people don't push and shove. Also, there is this charming etiquette lesson, courtesy of Stand Up Stacey: 

 

Stand Up Stacey seems like the perfect mascot for the constructed and controlled space that is Singapore. I'm so glad to be here, and I look forward to exploring it for the next few days.

 

[Unibok]

Having mastered the MRT with too much luggage (I've already been traveling for 7 weeks), I made it to my hotel. I really wanted to stay in the Little India section, and in spite of mixed reviews, I opted to hoard more Hilton points. Turns out it is right next to the gorgeous Hindu temple, which was in the midst of preparations for a late-night full moon celebration this evening. Here's how close it is:

 

The rooms are fine, actually. On the small side, but very clean and loaded with all the amenities I want and need. As I said, I'll have all the luxury I want starting on Friday. For now, this is a perfect place from which to explore. 

 

By the time I arrived, the hawker centers were closing down for the night, so I wandered the streets of Little India to see what looked tempting. Everything looked tempting. Everything smelled tempting. In fact, based on my very limited experience of 2.5 hours, Singapore streets are permeated with the aromas of delicious and painstakingly prepared food. Of all the senses, Singapore has activated my sense of smell most of all. 

 

Of the many options, I chose Nepali. The clay-baked eggplant and garlic naan were so good I moaned audibly after every bite. Luckily, the music was just loud enough to cover it. 

 

 

Who knows what tomorrow will bring? More exploration, more delights for the senses, more anticipation for what is yet to come.

[Emtbsam]

Can't wait to hear more about your time in Singapore!

[jpalbny]

Looking forward to more as well! Haven't been anywhere near here yet but it's getting closer.

[les37b]

Glad you arrived safe and sound and enjoying your first moments in Singapore. I certainly agree with you about the MRT efficiency and cleanliness. Cost is good too, though I have to admit for shorter journeys it’s not much difference to get a taxi. 

 

What places have you lined up to visit?

 

Funny you mentioning Changi. On my last visit there (apart from the actual departure) the airport had virtually zero people there. I’d taken several photos showing the huge expanse of check in desks and not a single soul in sight. I doubt that’s happened before or since during daylight hours. (All courtesy of our unplanned week stay in Singapore following an 11 hour flight to nowhere, when our Singapore air A380 returned to base following the captains announcement “due to Volcanic activity in London we are returning to Singapore”. We had just about reached Pakistan airspace when that happened! Yes it was the pesky Icelandindic volcano no one can pronounce! The rest as they say is History.

 

ive posted the photos you’d requested in Stumblefoot’s live thread... before I saw this. I won’t clutter by posting again.

 

Have a great time.... look forward to sailing along with you and reading your blog.

 

 

 

 

[Stumblefoot]

2 hours ago, les37b said:

I’ve posted the photos you’d requested in Stumblefoot’s live thread... before I saw this. I won’t clutter by posting again.

Thx for those photos Les!

[Unibok]

Thank you for the good wishes, Emtbsam, JP, and Les. JP, how interesting that you've never been near here, when you have been so many other amazing places! I'm grateful to have seen them through your eyes and lenses, and will try to do the same for you. Les, great memory of the Icelandic volcano. My mother and daughter were traveling to Ireland that day, and somehow sneaked in through a clear window, their trip undisturbed. It was such a lucky break for them.

 

As for my plans in Singapore, they are subject to whim and happenstance. I have an overly long list of things I would love to do, but I will run myself ragged if I do them all. My non-plan, then, is to look over the list and begin the day with whatever appeals the most, and see where that takes me. Today, that took me to some interesting and unexpected places.

 

More than anything, I wanted to walk, walk, walk, and then walk some more. That put the Southern Ridges at the top of this morning's list. Singapore has a network of paths that connect many (if not all) of their parks and green spaces, making it possible to walk in nature from park to park throughout the entire city. The Southern Ridges portion holds many of the most famous sites, and a slew of elevated walkways in the tree canopy, so I grabbed some fresh fruit from a market stand and set out to find them.

 

Singapore seems to be very good at publicizing wonderful things you can do here; Singapore is less good at telling you exactly how to get to those wonderful things. Think of it as a hiking guide minus section on how to get to the trailhead. I knew about Southern Ridges, and I knew which MRT stop to use, but then I ran into the gaping hole of my own ignorance. None of the Singaporeans I asked (and there were many) knew what I was talking about, either. Eventually a team coalesced around somebody's cell phone, and we figured it where to begin. 

 

Once in the connected trail systems, the signs are frequent and very clear. The issue is finding where to join the network; once in, you are fine. All a part of the adventure, and the morning was still young. I started at Kent Ridge park, enjoying their ponds and the canopy walk, which at one point led to a unexpected view of the harbor shipping port hard at work (see pic). There's something about the lines and symmetries and colors of a shipping port that pleases my eye.

 

The trail next traversed through their Horticultural Park, which had some extraordinary theme gardens and very impressive climbing orchids. From there, another forest canopy, until the famous Henderson Waves bridge, which through an optical illusion looks to be made of undulating rods. Pictures of it are better from afar, so I don't have a good one. However, this interesting cluster of buildings was off in the distance (see pic).

 

At the 10K mark, I reached the top of Faber Peak, where the cable cars were taking passengers over to Sentosa Island. By that time, I had been on the paths for several hours, ambling from park to park to park. It was a lovely introduction to Singapore -- walking through trees while ever aware of the urban presence just beyond. Although I hadn't seen the big sites, I felt as though I had connected with the city in my own way, and I had more of a sense of it. Finishing my fruit, I looked over the pier where the Nautica was docked, knowing that Silver Shadow will be right there in just a few days. For today, it was enough to watch the cable cars make their way to and from Sentosa Island (see final pic).

 

 

 

[Unibok]

Odd ... duplicate post. Never mind.

 

 

 

Edited February 19, 2019 by Unibok
tried to delete

[Unibok]

After returning to my room for a much needed shower, I headed to the nearest hawker center (Tekka) for a late lunch. I had a list of 5 or 6 things I would have been happy to find, and eventually settled on this roasted meat and rice dish with a side of bok choi and soup for S$5. It was absolutely delicious, and just what I needed to refuel after a long morning of walking. 

 

From there, I explored Little India's shopping arcade, thinking I might pick up something new to wear onboard. The colors of a stalls are a feast to the eyes, especially the Hindu shops selling flowers and other offerings for temple visits.

 

Here's where my lack of a plan made things interesting ... or perhaps foolhardy. As I was browsing for something to supplement the ship clothes I packed months ago, a shop owner gestured me inside. You need to know that I am not a shopper or a clothes horse. I don't particularly enjoy shopping of any kind, which might explain my wardrobe. I had heard that Singapore is a great place to have tailor-made clothes, but I had no idea what on earth I would want made, or where I would find the right tailor. With suspicion and a bit of trepidation, I followed the guy inside.

 

I know just what you are looking for, he said. Well, given that I certainly didn't know what I was looking for, I was skeptical. In fact, it turns out he did know exactly what I needed. First, he brought out some comfortable exploring around clothes that fit me well and look better than anything currently in my suitcase. Then he showed me something that could work on formal night (we have 3!). With a little bit of alteration, it would fit perfectly. Did I have 10 minutes? Very good, madame, I will alter the sleeves while you wait here.

 

Oh, and while you wait, would you like a Tiger beer to celebrate your new clothes? I will go get you one. 

 

Um, ok.

 

Here, while you wait with your Tiger beer, talk to our tailor. He makes beautiful suits. He will make you a suit. You are here how many days? No problem. He will make you a suit. Would you like some nice vegetable samosas? I will go get you some. 

 

No thank you, really, I just ate.

 

More to the point, I wasn't aware I wanted or needed a suit. In fact, I was quite sure I neither wanted nor needed a suit.

 

But then the tailor pulled out rolls of raw silk. Wow. Speechless. Maybe I did need some after all.

 

Three hours later, I left with 1 bag full of casual wear, an altered outfit for one of the formal nights, and many measurements taken for a jacket, slacks, and and skirt from the raw silk, plus two tops to go with them -- which will be ready on Thursday. That's two days from now. Plenty of time, they said. 

 

Never in a million years would I have predicted that I would spend an afternoon like this. If I tell my family, they will want to know what alien abducted their child and left me in her place. Clearly, none of this was planned. It was a great lesson on being in the moment, and to follow where life seemed to want to take me today. 

 

And this evening? I'm thinking about a warm soak for my feet, a good book, leftovers from last night's Nepali feast, and early to bed. Tomorrow is bound to hold more surprises.

 

 

[mysty]

Enjoy your sail Unibok!  Beautiful pics and wonderful colour commentary!

[UKCruiseJeff]

Unibok,

 

It's a real delight to follow your discovery of Singapore as it progresses.  I fear that most that discover Singapore do so almost by accident as it has become a place to pass through rather than a place to linger.  And as a result most have yet to allow Singapore to lure them in.  For many years Wifey and I would make our way down to Sydney passing through Bangkok at first and then Singapore on our way.  Being fortunate enough not to be short of time we'd have stopovers on our way for a couple of days and then normally four weeks in Sydney where we went simply to be able to walk in January and February for a month or so when the UK was so cold and wet and drab ..... taking the ferries out for walks from Circular Quay around the bay.  The stopevers got a bit longer and eventually we allowed Singapore to wrap itself around us and did as you have done and that is simply let it take you in and allow you to discover it through aimless wanderings.  In the end we questioned why were we going on to Sydney when Singapore seemed to offer to our needs so much more.  And that started two or three visits each year that were up to four weeks or so most years ...

 

It seems to me to be a perfect version of Asia for Europeans and Americans.  It is safe and clean and well ordered and offers experiences that we might not otherwise encounter.   When you experience Singapore you question ones own thoughts about the things you have highlighted.  Everything is so well thought through and seemingly civilised.

 

I'm not going to suggest anything you do because your approach is the right one.   Simply wander.  You found Tekka - your only error was not having a biryani from one of the famous hawkers there.  🙂

 

Enjoy the remainder of your stay.  And thanks for the delightful account of your discovery of Singapore. 🙂

[jpalbny]

Unibok - fantastic! Between Jeff's love of Singapore, and your enthusiasm on this thread, we may have to get there sooner than later. Really enjoying your recap!

[Stumblefoot]

What an incredible adventure you had!  What’s the name of your shop keeper and tailor?  I want to be sure we don’t walk down that street! 😄

[spinnaker2]

Terrific read and great photos!

Thanks much!

[Unibok]

11 hours ago, Stumblefoot said:

What an incredible adventure you had!  What’s the name of your shop keeper and tailor?  I want to be sure we don’t walk down that street! 😄

 

Haha, that's hilarious. The shop is Lotusmantra in the Little India arcade (#01-21 and #01-27), and his name is Ram. You or Amy might be in the market for a new suit -- you never know!

[Unibok]

Thanks for the positive feedback, everyone! You can tell that I am truly enjoying myself here. Jeff, I think you are right that Singapore is "easier" for Westerners to encounter than other Asian cities. Before coming here, I was actually afraid it might be too sanitized and overly controlled -- like a larger version of Epcot Center. Happily, there is still enough grit to make it feel real; people do jaywalk, and I've even seen a bit of litter. 

 

Ok, on to today's recap. The morning was all about Chinatown. Well, first it was about breakfast in the hawker center (prawn noodles -- see pic), and then it was all about Chinatown. Much of Singapore is still decked out to celebrate the Lunar New Year, and this is especially true in Chinatown. I especially enjoyed the endless strings of lanterns adorning the streets.

 

In a fairly short stretch along South Bridge Road, you can visit the Jamae Chulia Mosque (which does allow you to go inside), the Sri Mariamman Hindu Temple (which also has shrines for various other gods including Kali and Durga -- pictured), and the Buddhist Temple of the Tooth Relic (entrance pictured). Knowing I would be visiting sacred sites today, I wore white clothes with ample coverage for modesty. That was a fine choice, except that a) white isn't as big a deal here in Singapore as it is in other countries I've been to, and b) the Hindu blessing resulted in red powder all over my crisp white top. For the rest of the morning, I think my appearance screamed "earnest tourist who is trying too hard." 

 

This Tooth Relic Temple is the second I've visited in the world (two down, thirty to go????), and it was interesting to see how it functioned as more of a museum and cultural center than a place of religious practice. It felt new, like a statement, rather than something that has been there for centuries -- as the Hindu and Muslim sites had been. Most fascinating, an entire room of various relics that have been collected, including relics of the Buddha's blood, brain, skin, and heart. It is the most vast assortment of relics I've ever seen in one place ... and I think that's the point.

 

Although I was near the Maxwell Food Centre at this point, I wasn't anywhere close to hungry yet, so I settled for a lime juice and egg custard tart (not pictured, but quite delicious and still warm). Heading up the rather steep and lovely Ann Siang Road, I made my way to the Thein Hock Keng Temple to pay homage to the Sea Goddess before setting sail. As I approached, a volunteer asked if I would like a tour, I said sure, he said great let's go ... so it was an immediate, private 1-to-1 tour. The temple serves many functions, but prime among them is preserving cultural stories and heritages from Chinese immigrants from many regions and traditions. This means you have Taoism right next to Confucianism right next to Chinese Buddhism, set up both for prayer and for education. 

 

After a brief stop for a fresh mango juice, I headed back to the hotel to rest a bit and change before the afternoon's adventure.

 

 

[Unibok]

After a late lunch of a disappointingly average Hokkein Mee (egg noodles with prawn and cuttlefish), it was time for Gardens by the Bay. If I've been missing that Epcot vibe elsewhere in Singapore, it certainly was here in full force. I'm convinced that the Flower Dome and the Cloud Forest are basically massive human cooling stations that also happen to house a range of artfully curated plants. 

 

To usher in the Year of the Pig, whimsical pigs in many materials were scattered throughout the Chinese section of the Flower Dome. This guy was my favorite.

 

 

The gardens are truly beautiful, but I found that I enjoyed the human-made art scattered throughout just as much as the botanical art. This one, of a family arriving through Changi, was especially striking. 

 

In some ways, the whole place seems carefully designed as a series of instagram-worthy spots for social media opportunities. Indeed, that's what people come here to do: take pictures. Group pictures, couple pictures, solo selfies, family selfies, you name it. One of the most popular "Insta-ready" sections glows with lanterns; even I found it irresistible.

 

 

Also irresistible: beef and mutton satay for dinner (not pictured, but perfectly cooked, tender and flavorful).

Edited February 20, 2019 by Unibok
rearranging photos

[Unibok]

Gardens by the Bay's culminating event of the evening is their free sound and light show at the Supertree Grove. Families gather, quickly filling the benches and setting up blankets on the pavement to wait for the 7:45 show (there will be another at 8:45). Walking on the Supertree elevated skywalk requires a two-part process: first, you purchase a ticket, and then you need a time stamp. When I purchased my ticket, the time stamp was for the 7:40 line to take an elevator up to the skywalk -- the second to last entry for the evening. Dusk fell, the trees becoming even more magical.

 

As the 7:40 group was queued up under one of the trees, the show began -- lights synchronized to a series of songs about the moon (Blue Moon, Paper Moon, Fly Me to the Moon, Moon River, you get the point). The crowd grew silent at first, and then couples started dancing and families laughing. I just stood there, taking in the carefully choreographed visual and auditory sensations. It was stunning. The show ended at 8:00, just as my group entered the elevator. The timing (and the experience) could not have been any more perfect. 

 

Once on top, the skyline opened up again, with all the excitement and laughter and wonder of this fascinating place. 

 

 

 

[Stumblefoot]

3 hours ago, Unibok said:

You or Amy might be in the market for a new suit -- you never know!

That’s what scares me! 😉

[jpalbny]

4 hours ago, Unibok said:

Haha, that's hilarious. The shop is Lotusmantra in the Little India arcade (#01-21 and #01-27), and his name is Ram. You or Amy might be in the market for a new suit -- you never know!

 

I bet they couldn't stop at just one... Afterwards, they would be in the market for a new suitCASE, to hold those new clothes!

 

1 hour ago, Stumblefoot said:

That’s what scares me! 😉

 

Be afraid. Sounds like a dangerous place for you. The connoisseur's list might be cheaper.

[TLCOhio]

4 hours ago, Unibok said:

Thanks for the positive feedback, everyone! You can tell that I am truly enjoying myself here.

 

 

Appreciate your wonderful postings, pictures, comments and follow-ups.  With this above visual, it specifically brings back excellent memories from just one year ago when we were in Southeast Asia during their festive Lunar New Year period.  Those street, building, etc., decorations are so much fun and building up the excitement for exploring this region at this time of the year.  Keep it coming!!  Great sharing. 

 

 

THANKS!  Enjoy!  Terry in Ohio

 

SE Asia/Mekong River, Etc.!  Live/blog from early 2018, first adventure through SE Asia, stops in Hong Kong and Bangkok, before exploring all over Vietnam and Cambodia, seven days sailing on the Mekong River. Now at 43,770 views.

www.boards.cruisecritic.com/showthread.php?t=2591474

[RachelG]

Love, love your report.  I love Singapore.  Everything about it—the food, the cleanliness, the organization.  You are bringing back good memories.

[Unibok]

Thank you, Terry and Rachel. I can see why so many of you love Singapore so much, and I am happy to join that fan club. I've only barely scratched the surface of this infinitely explorable city!

 

I woke today with 2 modest goals for the day: return to Maxwell Food Centre hungry, and travel above ground to see more of the city. Anything else that happened would be icing on the cake.

 

Still not hungry when I woke up, I waited until a reasonable brunch time to make my way back to Chinatown for Hainanese Chicken Rice. Armed with a list of several excellent places, I had plans B, C, and D ready in case the famous Michelin-starred Tien Tien had too long a line. Well, it turns out that a reasonable brunch time means almost no line anywhere. In fact, only Tien Tien had a line, and even that was only 3 people long -- all locals. I joined the line, and sat down to relish my chicken rice.

 

As advertised, it was flavorful and succulent and tender. A few drops of chili sauce created a perfectly balanced flavor burst that was pretty close to transcendent. Goal #1 achieved.

 

For goal #2, I would take a bus, any bus, to somewhere I'd not been before to see what I could see. My choice involved 3 semi-ridiculous criteria: the bus needed to be a fun color, the bus needed to be one of those double deckers, and the bus needed to end at a place I had at least heard of. All of the double deckers are fun colors, so two of my criteria collapsed into just one. 

 

The first double-decker to come by (neon green) was headed for Harbourfront. Hey, I've heard of that! I got on, and went upstairs where nobody was sitting in the expansive front row of seats. Giddy with childlike glee, I perched on my seat and began to see how the parts of the city actually fit together. We ended at Vivo City, where I ducked in the mall to pick up some sunglasses to replace the ones I lost somewhere in the Indian Ocean a few weeks ago.

 

New sunnies purchased, I used the same logic to get from Vivo City to ... well, anywhere else. A few double-deckers came by with terminal points unfamiliar to me, so I waited a bit. Eventually a (purple) double-decker arrived, headed for SunTec. Thus, I ventured into the heart of the business district, again perched solo in the front row of the upper deck. We circled around downtown, along MBS, through the banking district, across several bridges, by the still-not-flying Singapore Flyer, and eventually over to SunTec. There, I picked up a pair of shoes that will work better than what I packed for formal night. For a non-shopper, I certainly have bought a lot :-0

 

Oh, Singapore, what are you doing to me?

 

[UKCruiseJeff]

Hi Uni,

 

I fear you might have run out of time and I'm enjoying your adventure.  Tian Tian was made famous by the late Bourdain and that accounts for much of it's popularity.  There is another Chicken Rice place at Maxwell started the Tian Tian's brother who many locals feel does a better broth ..... and has shorter queues.  There is some rivalry.

 

For what it's worth, wifey and I feel the very best of Singapore is undoubtedly Botanic Gardens and if you are up very early tommorow morning and have an hour or two take a taxi to Tanglin Gate at Botanic and walk the gardens.  It is the opposite to the Disneyesque Gardens By the Bay and it would be a great shame not to visit Botanic.  We go nearly every morning for our early morning walk.  If you have the time have a look at the Orchid Garden in Botanic and if you are over 60 take a copy of your passport to get admission for S$1 rather than S$5.  

 

And if you have a lust for some late night munchies tonight do not forget Satay Street at Lau Pa Sat for a dozen or two mixed satay with a jug of tiger ..... Just saying ....

 

Enjoy your last day.

Edited February 21, 2019 by UKCruiseJeff

[Elginjock]

Thank you Unionk loving your daily adventures. We have only previously had short visits to Singapore but just used a BA companion voucher to book a week in Singapore in January. We love the food and always go where the locals eat.  Last year we managed to find the famous Michelin star Soy chicken hawker stalI in China Town que 20 mins but delicious and so cheap.Will have the time to get a silk jacket made!! any recommendations please . Made a note of Uniboks tailor. Have a wonderful cruise.