HAL in Antarctica

[HAL Sailer]

Considering Antarctica before new regs go in place. Looking at HAL Dec 2020 or Jan 2021. Debating whether better to start in Santiago or Buenos Aires. Opinions, please.

 

Also debating whether I'd regret doing a HAL drive by cruise -v- other companies' step on expeditions.  For those that have done either or both, what else should I consider in addition to whether I value stepping onto the 7th continent, the ship size/amenities, and the cost?

 

How did you decide?

[RuthC]

I've done the HAL cruise in both directions, and believe it is better to pick the date that is more convenient for you, regardless of the direction. 

There was only a 1-hour time zone difference, so either direction isn't hard on the body with the time changes, but Buenos Aires has the one longer night. 
If you sail east to west, Glacier Alley in Chile is a real letdown after Antarctica itself, whereas it is a good buildup going west to east. However, going west to east, Iceberg Alley is a the letdown after Antarctica, and I thought it spectacular on the way over. I prefer east to west primarily for that reason. 

I am physically unable to use the landing craft that the expedition ships use, so don't regret taking them. I absolutely loved seeing (and smelling!) all the sights from the outside decks of the ship, including the bow. I feel I had as good an experience from the cruise ship as anyone on an expedition ship did, just a different one. And for the money I saved taking the larger ship I was able to go three times, instead of one. 

Whatever you decide, just go. There are no wrong ways to take this cruise. 

[Vict0riann]

For our fiftieth anniversary, we took an expedition ship to Antarctica.  When I originally suggested a cruise, I thought it would be Holland America, but DH had other ideas.  It was expensive - about $30,000 for the 19 days, for a small cabin with portholes.  It included  3 stops in the Falkland Islands, 6 or 7 stops on South Georgia, 3 stops on the Antarctic peninsula and stops at Deception Island, Elephant Island and Half Moon Island.  Of course, we didn't make some of them...  Eventually, only one landing (in zodiacs, of course) in Antarctica, but at least I can say we have stood on all 7 continents.  It was, all in all, an amazing voyage.  My big souvenir was a broken wrist, from our first stop on South Georgia, so I couldn't do all the exploring DH did.  Definitely I would say if you do an expedition instead of a cruise, be sure to include South Georgia.  Deception Island was amazing, too.  They were all amazing...

 

We did eventually do a SA trip around Cape Horn, but didn't do the scenic cruising of Antarctica.  We did east to west, and thought the Chilean Fiords were very impressive.   After our expedition, where we stood among the very curious king penguins and elephant seals, I think the scenic cruising of Antarctic waters might be a bit of a let-down - something like Ruth said about Iceberg Alley - but I'd be willing to try it.😀

[HAL Sailer]

RuthC and VictOriann -- Thank you both for your descriptions and advice. You've given me much to consider.  I have been considering doing the drive-by (scenic cruising) before big ships are prohibited and, later, doing an expedition trip which will still be available if I feel I want more immersion. 

[teacherman]

We just returned from an almost perfect HAL Zaandam cruise.  I have written a cruise review today which will be published in a few days.  I recommend west to east and also recommend BOOKING IT NOW.  You can always cancel if you change your mind.  Many people were shut out of the good tours by booking too late.  We booked almost 2 years in advance.

[HAL Sailer]

50 minutes ago, RuthC said:

I've done the HAL cruise in both directions... I was able to go three times...

 

RuthC, may I ask which HAL ships you were on? And, about cabins: depending on itinerary, we usually book a Verandah or an Inside but rarely an OV. I will be solo as DH can't manage this trip healthwise, so I'm considering an Inside as I think it will be too cold for much balcony time and I'd likely want to move port & starboard, forward & aft for viewing. Obviously, the Inside would be more affordable solo, too, but that isn't controlling. Any thoughts?

[HAL Sailer]

Thanks, teacherman, for your advice. I'll look forward to your review.

[*Miss G*]

You might find this thread helpful:

 

 

[BSinPNS]

To get in the mood, you may want to view Jeff Farschman's Blog (http://amazingvoyages2.blogspot.com/2020/) as he is on the Volendam Grand South America and they are on their first day.  The World voyage just left the continent and there are some interesting commentaries and more photos at https://www.theinsidecabin.com/.   We are planning on it next January.  

[RuthC]

1 hour ago, HAL Sailer said:

 

RuthC, may I ask which HAL ships you were on? And, about cabins: depending on itinerary, we usually book a Verandah or an Inside but rarely an OV. I will be solo as DH can't manage this trip healthwise, so I'm considering an Inside as I think it will be too cold for much balcony time and I'd likely want to move port & starboard, forward & aft for viewing. Obviously, the Inside would be more affordable solo, too, but that isn't controlling. Any thoughts?

I was on the former Ryndam, Rotterdam, and Veendam, in that order. Two of them were 55,000 ton ships, and the Rotterdam was a bit larger at about 65, 000 tons. 
I was in inside cabins every time, currently they are now I-category on Lower Promenade, between the atrium and mid-ship. 

I did spend a lot of time outside on the promenade, either in places sheltered from the wind, when that was a consideration, or just sitting on a lounger, with a few blankets, when the wind wasn't blowing hard on me. The cabin was close to that nice, fresh air, and great for getting outside quickly, or coming back in to warm up. 
The Ryndam and Rotterdam (the aft hadn't been butchered yet) were also great for sitting outside in a somewhat sheltered area, with expansive views. 
I didn't feel I missed anything not having a window or balcony. I'm sure either would have been nice. 

[rkacruiser]

Due to stability issues as well as the very high cost of sailing on an expedition type ship with landings on the continent, I chose a Holiday sailing on Zaandam from Santiago (San Antonio) to Buenos Aires.  An excellent cruise with 3.5 days of good cruising in Antarctic waters.  I would do it again.  Southbound, I think the scenery becomes more interesting as one prepares for the beauty and majesty of Antarctica.  Northbound from Antarctica, the scenery would become anti-climatic in my opinion.

[TN Fem]

We did Santiago to Buenos Aires. As previous poster noted seeing the Chilean Fjords before Antarctica was a good build up and probably would have been a let down after. 

 

We chose HAL because we our kids were too young for the expedition cruises (ages 8-11 at time-- but really was a great age to enjoy it and learned a lot going to the lectures and in the kids club. 

 

We had an ocean view cabin and didn't feel the need for a veranda. We spent a lot of time on deck watching glaciers and penguins.  

 

Our favorite stop was probably Stanley. 

[zelker]

 We originally booked the drive-by on HAL because of the cost difference but DH knows me well enough to know that I wouldn't be happy unless I could get off the ship and really experience this likely once-in-a-lifetime trip … so we switched to Seabourn and never looked back.  Most epic vacation we've ever done, neither of us regret spending the extra bucks to do it that way, and our advice to everyone we talk to about going is to do it on a smaller ship where you can get out on zodiacs and be one with nature. 

 

We booked an Oceanview and really didn't miss the verandah (and we book verandahs on HAL 100% of the time) - it was a great way to keep the cost down.  As for direction, recommend going west to east - save the best for last! 

 

Whatever you decide, enjoy!  It truly IS magical and unlike anywhere else you'll ever go! 🐧

[Jazmyn49]

Highly recommend Seabourn as well, Buenos Aires to Santiago or the reverse,  just not only to Ushuaia and return.  Doing a drive-by is like looking at the fancy plates in a restaurant and not getting to eat the food.  Being up close and personal with nature is the experience of a lifetime and worth every penny.  If you are mobility impaired, the drive-by is the way to go.  If not, get out there and enjoy the remote beauty.  However, we had 2 ladies in wheelchairs aboard.  They were taken out in the Zodiacs to tour the icebergs and wildlife which was lovely for them.

[gophercruiser]

If actually putting your "feet" on your seventh continent is an item, there is a shore excursion that you can take from your Hal ship that will give you a few actual hours on the continent. It's a long day and is not inexpensive , but unless you want to use the " Rubber Rafts" on an expedition cruise , the " cruise by" on Hal is an excellent viewing .

[doublebzz]

We were very happy that we chose a veranda cabin on Zaandam.  Throughout the day, there will be announcements of wildlife sightings which are often short lived.  Having immediate access to the outside via the veranda was a definite plus.  We sailed the January cruise and found the weather in Antarctica to be picture perfect.  December is early summer and I would guess the weather may be more problematic so, in my opinion,  month selection trumps from which direction to sail.  Chances are whatever month you sail, the transit through the Drake Passage and up to the Falklands will be rough.  Because my wife is prone to seasickness, doing Antarctica on small expeditionary ships was not an option.  A number of the land excursions in Chile, Argentina and Falklands provide the opportunity to get close up to wildlife in their native habitat and are highly recommended.

[bcummin]

I agree that December might be too early to go.

January would give more time for ice to melt in the water.  You want to be able to gt to the most scenic areas possible. 

We were on ms Prinsendam in February 2009.  Magnificent memories.

Barbara 

[zelker]

Impossible to guess what the weather or water or ice conditions will be.  We sailed over Christmas and New Years and the weather was great and our crossing was blue skies and the Drake Lake.  The worst seas we had were coming down the coast of Chile.  As for ice, they work around it, same as they do for the weather.

[scubacruiserx2]

When we went to Antarctica we were on the Zaandam in 2019 . As  a photographer we wanted to see the best light on the Glaciers and to see Penguin chicks at 3 locations . Thus we choose a departure from Chile on the Port side in a Neptune suite . We liked having food and drink and warmth and a bathroom just a door away . We spent a lot of time on the balcony and saw a lot of wildlife while others were inside dining . MDR meals were delivered to our room when we requested them . We did a pre cruise stay with a week in Patagonia with scenery that was much better than a lot that we saw in Antarctica .

 

 

 

 

 

We did a glacier cruise that took us close to 3 glaciers and large icebergs

 

 

 

Torres del Paine day trip

 

 

 

 

All of this was before our cruise . The best places to see penguins in order was The Falklands , Punta Tombo ( Puerto Madryn ) , Punta Arenas Penguin Island and lastly Antarctica . The January 10th trip eliminates Puerto Madryn . The December 19th cruise is opposite of what we would suggest and means that you will be away for Christmas and New Years . We have cruised SA in November once and December twice and based on our experience we would recommend the November 27th cruise Port side veranda or Neptune Suite . You can see our entire photo review on the Zaandam and South America here

 

 

This was our favorite trip and stay so far and we hope that you go while you can and enjoy it . 😊

Edited February 7, 2020 by scubacruiserx2

[WisRiver]

We did a drive by  in the Veendam several years ago.  It was nice, but only whetted our appetite for actual landings.    In 2017 we did a Hurtigruten cruise on the Fram.  We went from Ushuiha, across the Drake Passage, five days in Antarctica with six landings, on to the South Georgia Islands, Falklands for four days and back to Buenos Aires.  The Fram excursion was extraordinary.  The captain had a choice of landing areas, so it you were unable to land in one place you could go on to another.  There was no problem with the landings from the small boats.    The Fram was pricey, but the stops in the South Georgia Islands and Falklands made a great trip even better.  If you can afford the extra cost, take an expedition cruise.  The Hurtigruten Line is putting more ships in Antarctica.  They seem to be at a price point between the smaller ships and the upscale companies like Seaborne and Ponant.

[bcummin]

Actually ice rules, as does weather.  We always hope for the best.

Last week it was ice that prevented ms Amsterdam's World Cruise from entering Lamaire Channel / Kodak Gap and seeing probably the most majestic Antarctic views.

And it was thick fog that caused cancellation of scenic cruising day #4.  They headed north early.

Any visit to Antarctica is a glorious gift.

Barbara

Edited February 7, 2020 by bcummin

[rkacruiser]

6 hours ago, bcummin said:

Last week it was ice that prevented ms Amsterdam's World Cruise from entering Lamaire Channel / Kodak Gap and seeing probably the most majestic Antarctic views.

 

I had that same experience on my Zaandam cruise.  We were able to get close enough to the Channel that some of my pictures were of making a wall hanging picture of them.  I can't imagine what actually going through the Channel would have been like!

[Mike B Landlubber]

Three years ago I did an expedition cruise on Hurtigruten’s ship Midnatsol. It was the greatest trip of my life! For me, setting foot in Antarctica, and especially interacting with the wildlife, was essential. I realize not everyone will feel that way. I do think a drive by cruise would be worth doing if unable or unwilling to do the cruises with landings. If you go, the earlier in the season you go, the more spectacular the icebergs will be, though as someone earlier pointed out, the more chance that ice pack will keep you from getting in as close as you might like. If you choose to do an expedition cruise, going later In the season will mean penguin chicks will be hatched, but landing sites will also be more trampled by tourists.

i went in December and don’t regret it, but I admit I’d love to have seen those penguin chicks!

 

We had several whale and seal sightings from our ship while underway, and a few sightings of penguins on icebergs. I’m going to attach some photos I took while the ship was underway, but be warned these were with a fairly long telephoto lens.

 

If you pine for the expedition trip, I’d encourage you to do it, but if you don’t, drive by may be a better use of cruise dollars!

 

 

[TriumphGuy]

Off topic a bit but can someone briefly explain what the "new regulations" are and how they affect HAL sailings beyond 2020? We would love to do an Antarctic cruise, but it would be something we'd have to do in 2021 or 2022.

Thank you.

[rkacruiser]

1 hour ago, TriumphGuy said:

Off topic a bit but can someone briefly explain what the "new regulations" are and how they affect HAL sailings beyond 2020? We would love to do an Antarctic cruise, but it would be something we'd have to do in 2021 or 2022.

Thank you.

 

Your question in a good one.  The target date for ships the size of HAL's vessels not allowed in the Antarctic waters has changed over the years.   The most recently announced dates seem more firm than those in the past.  But, who knows?