Rhine water levels 2021 and similar topics

[w8ing2cruz]

Notamermaid - thank you for all the information you provide on this site! So glad to see the rebound from the flooding earlier this summer! 

 

We are embarking on our first river cruise in a few days and have  been researching for the last year and a half (like most recent cruisers we couldn't sail in 2020).  To your knowledge, might we encounter some early Octoberfest type celebrations while cruising down the Rhine next week?  

[notamermaid]

@w8ting2cruz @w8ing2cruzThank you. The Rhine is a pleasant river to be at - and on it - right now and soon we will see more of those early morning autumn mists (there have been a couple already) that envelop the landscape. I hope though that your sailing through the Rhine Gorge is not shrouded too much in fog, then the castles could be hidden from view a bit. Trees are still green, they turn yellow and orange with some red in October. Dark red is not a hue that is present much around here.

 

But to your question. In Rhineland-Palatinate the restrictions prevent large uncontrolled crowds, so many village fêtes, old town festivals and wine festivals have been cancelled. Likewise, Oktoberfest celebrations are not happening, but I do not know about the individual cancellations enough. One thing is definitely cancelled - the Oktoberfest in Koblenz.

 

Not sure what the other states do, but expect things to be relatively quiet in terms of festivities. The Oktoberfest in Cologne has also been cancelled, but there may be small indoor celebrations in pubs. Switzerland also has put a cap on crowds, so there will also be cancellations I expect.

 

I will roam around a bit to see what other towns do, but as I expect you to have quite a bit of time in Cologne, perhaps you would like to have a look yourself at what the city offers: https://www.cologne-tourism.com/

 

The dreaded word is "abgesagt", so when you read that anywhere, also on posters in the street, you know something has been cancelled.

 

All in all life is kind of pleasant and as a tourist that is fully vaccinated you can go and see places at your leisure without encountering problems, generally speaking. Things are a bit more complicated in everyday life for the people living along the river.

 

I can tell you from my perspective as a local that I am happy to see tourists again, so hopefully you will experience this with all the people you meet, too.

 

The other week I went to this restaurant and heard British voices at a  patio table nearby. In this mad world right now, I was as happy as a child that has just been handed a big bowl of ice-cream. But that story is for another post ...

 

notamermaid

 

Edited September 15, 2021 by notamermaid
Sorry, wrong name

[notamermaid]

Added info to above: Mannheim Oktoberfest and Mainz Oktoberfest have been cancelled.

 

notamermaid

 

[w8ing2cruz]

Thank you so much for all of this information!  I'm a bit sad that there are so many cancellations of festivals etc but I totally understand.  I'm happy that the residents are excited to see tourism get back on track.  We are so, so happy to be cruising!

[Loreto]

Thank you, notamermaid!  We leave very soon for Switzerland and the start of our Avalon 13 day Rhine/Moselle cruise.  I don't think there will be more than 30 people on the ship...just 15 cabins are booked.  We hope to see some fall colors and places where we used to live.  We plan to have a wonderful time!

karen  

[notamermaid]

On 9/16/2021 at 2:32 AM, Loreto said:

Thank you, notamermaid!  We leave very soon for Switzerland and the start of our Avalon 13 day Rhine/Moselle cruise.  I don't think there will be more than 30 people on the ship...just 15 cabins are booked.  We hope to see some fall colors and places where we used to live.  We plan to have a wonderful time!

karen  

Sounds like you will really get pampered .

 

It is a little early for autumn colours now, but by the time you are on the Moselle the colours may start a little. But the Moselle is a delight in any season I find. I know your itinerary goes as far as Remich, I really like that. If you still have the choice for Trier I recommend the Roman town walk rather than the standard town walk. I went to see the Roman baths and the amphitheatre many years ago, really interesting. But I am sure you will enjoy either.

 

Here is a webcam of the area at Drachenfels castle at Königswinter, North of Koblenz, still very green: https://www.feratel.com/webcams/deutschland/koenigswinter.html

That area is often sailed through at night, so many do not see it. Now that the sun sets earlier it is often also missed in daylight when the ships set sail from Cologne to go upstream.

 

The feratel website has many interesting places, this is the view of Cologne:

https://www.feratel.com/webcams/deutschland/koeln-hyatt-regency-hotel.html

 

notamermaid

 

 

[notamermaid]

Miscellaneous good news from the Middle Rhine valley or nearby.

 

I wrote on June 29th: "A mishap that may cost up to half a million euros: a tanker hit the landing stage of the Namedy Geyser boat a few days ago. Nobody harmed, tanker in harbour for inspection and landing stage sunk. No access to geyser for visitors for several weeks probably. Much annoyance in Andernach as the attraction only reopened about three weeks ago."

Good news is that the geyser attraction has reopened and you can get to the fountain itself by ship again. If you are interested: https://www.geysir-andernach.de/en/geyser-visit/river-cruise/

 

Around three months ago, something unusual happened near Mainz. On the other side of the river is Wiesbaden which lies in the Salzbach valley. Part of the huge network of roads in the area is the Salzbachtalbrücke, which has both in Rhineland-Palatinate and parts of Hesse become quite infamous as the bridge structure was completely overwhelmed by mass commuter traffic (it was never designed for so much heavy traffic) and was supposed to be renewed. Construction work surrounding the plans were already under way when parts of the bridge moved and collapsed unto its pillar construction, completely destabilizing it. Result: immediate danger of collapsing entirely with closure of roads and railway underneath it. The weird bit: A truck to evaluate the damage could not be moved from the bridge and stood there for three months on the closed bridge. I saw it in real life and can tell you that it looked eerie. I hope somebody took a photo of it in early morning mists as it is now history. The good news: No, the bridge has not collapsed and the truck is fine. This is how the builders, authorities and owner of the truck have finally been able to get the vehicle off the bridge: https://www.swr.de/swraktuell/snacks/salzbachtal-bruecke-lkw-geborgen-100.html

The bridge will be demolished using explosives in November. River cruisers should not be affected by this unless they need to get to Wiesbaden (a short detour needed) but commuter traffic will be disrupted for many more months.

 

And finally, the good news from Neuwied. After around seven years of planning and building the embankment is completely redone and finished. At least the part that is most used by the locals and in future by river cruise ships. Looks quite modern and sort of inviting (the problem they always have is the massive wall, the flood protection dyke, which I would call only attractive for hydrology engineers and real architecture enthusiasts). But more on that when I can find out when they will actually have the landing stage ready, there seems to be a structure missing still. Will post this in the thread "Beyond the standard ports". Here is the part with the steps for enjoying an ice-cream from the beer garden and the sunset:

 

 

More importantly of course, the river levels still look good and with the temperatures getting cooler we can in all likelihood look forward to weeks with little to no disruption from low water.

 

notamermaid

 

 

 

[notamermaid]

They wanted to build a school annex - and found a Roman road!

 

They have been digging in Cologne again to prepare the ground for the foundations of a building and found part of a Roman road, as well as a canal/pipe. This is not any road but the long distance road Cologne - Trier - Lyon. Quite a sensation is not the Roman road as its whereabouts had been known, but the previously unknown canal. The article is only in German, perhaps you can send it through a translation program. If not, just the photo is good enough to give you an idea of what is happening: https://www.wz.de/nrw/burscheid-und-region/koeln_leverkusen/roemerstrasse-nach-trier-liegt-unter-schulbaustelle-in-der-innenstadt_aid-62936077

 

If you happen to be in the area and are keen to try and see it in the next few days, it is within the city centre, not sure how well they will shield and protect this from the elements and humans.

 

notamermaid

 

 

[Canal archive]

Very interesting Notamermaid it looks like typical ancient middle Europe water course. I wonder if they’ll enclose it after noting it all or maybe even stop the intended building. Archaeologists can be notoriously stubborn. 

[notamermaid]

As it is under a planned school annex, I reckon it will be documented - possibly partly removed - and then covered up. But who knows, they may make it accessible, all depends on value of the find and what is doable with building regulations these days. Would be cool if they kept it visible for the pupils, a nice way of teaching history: "Today, children, we will talk about the Romans. Let's go into the cellar". Would be real on site teaching if not hands-on learning.

 

The level at Kaub is now at 139cm. It will fall further, but a fall below 100cm will not happen by 6 October and a fall below 110cm on that day is highly unlikely. On 5 October the level at Maxau is predicted to rise so we may will see a rise at Kaub again by 7 October. Looking very good for sailings in October.

 

notamermaid

 

[notamermaid]

The German public regional broadcaster based in Cologne, in short "WDR", has some lovely videos on YouTube from the series "WDR Reisen", a travel programme. The one they did on the Rhine fortunately has English subtitles. Those are not perfect, but very helpful with some facts about the places the presenters visit. I really want to recommend you this although it is long. It starts in Wiesbaden and covers more things than purely the IMO "overdocumented" Rüdesheim to Koblenz section, then ends in Cologne.

 

Here it is: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M27QGN_PJIQ

 

 

notamermaid

 

P.S.: Kaub now at 135cm, little change till 4 October most likely, then a slow, steady rise, perhaps to 170cm.

 

Edited September 29, 2021 by notamermaid
added info

[notamermaid]

Well, the weather changed for the better (more sun, less rain) and the river level for the worse. So Kaub gauge has dropped to 110cm, the lower end of the prediction as of last Wednesday. But it should rise again to 140cm by 9 October. Whether or not this happens, the level is good to see river cruise ships sailing comfortably through the first half of October most likely.

 

We have had the first autumn storms in my area and the leaves are slowly changing colour.

 

notamermaid

 

[notamermaid]

On 9/24/2021 at 6:38 PM, notamermaid said:

They have been digging in Cologne again to prepare the ground for the foundations of a building and found part of a Roman road, as well as a canal/pipe. This is not any road but the long distance road Cologne - Trier - Lyon. Quite a sensation is not the Roman road as its whereabouts had been known, but the previously unknown canal.

We know that the Romans were very good at water management and the related infrastructure, from small pipes, to canals, to bath houses, to supplying small places and huge cities like Cologne with drinking water via aqueducts. If you happen to plan a land trip or river cruise along the Rhone in France I highly recommend seeing the Pont du Gard. But we are on the Rhine in this thread so let us look at an aqueduct closer to home, i.e. my home. Another short trip took me to the left bank of the Rhine and into the hills above the small town of Brey.

 

Brey is in itself not a village that stands out much from the others in the area, but hidden in the hills above is a Roman construction that stands out from the many small remnants of Roman life along the Rhine (huge towers and other buildings in the major cities excluded). Reaching Brey you will see brown tourist signs taking you to "Römische Wasserleitung", this is the logo on the path in the hills:

 

It was a small road that we took to get near it (you are supposed to walk from a town car park which we missed as we had taken a wrong turn) and parked at the local sports ground which is a really quiet, nature picturesque setting. The cows were not disturbed by our presence:

 

This "culture path" in part follows the same route as a so-called "Traumpfad", one of many themed circular hiking paths in that part of the valley and the surrounding hills. This is the sign post:

 

You can also see a sign for RheinBurgenWeg which follows the Rhine more closely to see the castles and views over the valley. But we will get to that another time. Yup, hiking has always been a popular pastime in Germany, but for some years now these themed paths have been all the rage...

 

This is the village on the map:

 

Look to the right across the river, there is Braubach with the Marksburg. Yes, from atop the hill on the "Traumpfad" you are supposed to have a good view of the famous castle.

 

But we wanted to see the hidden aqueduct in the hills, so from the small car park at the sports ground we followed the sign into the woods and up a steep path.

 

notamermaid

 

 

 

[notamermaid]

This was quite an incline on slightly uneven ground, but it took us quickly up and out of the narrow valley of the small stream "Breyer Bach". It flows somewhere down there, through the trees you can already make out the ridge of the hills on the other side:

 

We reached the top of the path where a hiking path continues upwards but we continued straight ahead. Looking backwards:

 

And where we were headed (an information panel slowly being "reclaimed" by nature):

 

Here it is:

 

Looking inside:

 

There are helpful information panels in German:

 

For a builder or engineer this must be quite fascinating, but for the layman it will more come to life with a guide. They have in normal times a regular tour at weekends, but you can book a group visit. When we were there in late May it was in a state of neglect - or in nicer words, nature was working hard at growing over human achievements - so this is what the emergency staircase looked like:

 

Can you imagine the creepy crawlies in that hole. Eek!

 

So what makes it special? First history: nobody has been able to determine where the aqueduct starts or what the water served, but they think it was a largish estate close to the village (Brey is very old) that may have served as supplying a halfway house as well, being between Boppard and Koblenz. Residents sheltering from bomb attacks in WWII found the tunnel by accident.

 

Special is the fact that it is an aqueduct, i.e. a conduit for water, but it is underground and hewn into the rock. The system is not originally Roman, but was invented in Persia, called "quanat": https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Qanat

And on top of that it still carries water!

 

There is not much English info but if you are now eager to find out more, here is the German wikipedia page: https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Römische_Wasserleitung_(Brey)

It calls the aqueduct an  "archeological gem".

 

There is funding coming from institutions, mainly the EU, to help with making the tunnel wider known (tourism):

 

As this is so deep in the forest I do not think there will ever be a lot of visitors but it is an intriguing, pleasant little place, so perhaps next year I will try and find some time to pay it a guided visit.

 

It was time for us to leave the aqueduct at 129m above sea level

and head back down to the main road in the valley to return home, this time taking us past the church Saint Lambert from 1900, in the village next to Brey called Spay:

 

notamermaid

 

[jpalbny]

That looks like a fun hike. Chris and I would sign up for a guided tour with you! 

[notamermaid]

A quick look at Kaub. We have had some rain so the level in the Rhine Gorge has stayed pleasant for sailing but there has been a slight downward trend. The next few days will see little rain but it is cold and drizzly enough to keep the level over 100cm for the next three days most likely.

 

Brief info for those new to the subject: a level at Kaub gauge of 90cm on a downward trend is not good and at 78cm the navigation channel is only 190cm deep which can cause problems for the ships with a deep draft. It affects the 135m ships first.

 

notamermaid

 

[notamermaid]

On 10/6/2021 at 5:30 PM, jpalbny said:

That looks like a fun hike. Chris and I would sign up for a guided tour with you! 

Thanks, jp. Happy to meet in the village and then walk up to the aqueduct with you. We could join the guide there (if needs be I will do some translating) and I would probably show you the path which will take you to a splendid hotel and later the view over the valley. You could continue while I take the more comfortable option of heading straight back to the village. I am just not good at long distances these days. The whole "Traumpfad" is four hours: https://www.traumpfade.info/pfad/traumpfad/rheingoldbogen/?lang=en

 

Or we break our journey at said hotel and lazily take a taxi back to the valley: https://www.jakobsberg.de/en/

 

Come to think of it: this hotel and hilly location above Boppard would be ideal for a luxury tour offer by Crystal. I think it would fit well into their portfolio of excursions.

 

The makers of "Traumpfade" must have realized a few years ago that not everyone can walk 3 to 6 hours up and down hill, so they have created the shorter "Traumpfädchen". As the grammatical diminutive "-chen" suggests, these are shorter walks of up to two hours. In fact, they have a suggestions which appears to incorporate the view of the Traumpfad from an easier angle. Description only in German unfortunately: https://www.traumpfade.info/pfad/traumpfaedchen/spayer-blickinstal/

 

For the serious hikers there are two paths that loosely follow the river in the Middle Rhine valley through the hills on both sides, on the left bank the "RheinBurgenWeg" (see the signpost and my mention above) and on the right bank the "Rheinsteig". Both challenging in parts, but very rewarding. I have been up a short stretch of the Rheinsteig, that was in 2019 when I went to Hammerstein castle ruin (I posted about it at the time).

 

On a river cruise, I think it is a bit impractical to offer hiking stretches, an excursion up to the Vierseenblick, four lakes' view, in Boppard is a great offer instead. Or the view from Marksburg castle is splendid. The Rüdesheim to Assmannshausen walk is also a nice thing to do, seems to work, I think AvalonWaterways offers that. But I will get back to the hiking paths again nevertheless in another post.

 

notamermaid

 

 

[notamermaid]

It's been three days so a brief look at Kaub is a good idea. The gauge now reads 102cm. It has been a dry day in the valley, Sunday's and Monday's forecasts show no rain in the valley either, so the figures in the river level prediction show a slow but steady decline. Current estimate for Tuesday is 91cm. As of now, rain is coming in on that same day, with substantially more on Wednesday. If this happens, the downward trend should be halted.

 

By the way, Kaub gauge is at Rhine kilometre 546.3.

 

notamermaid

 

[notamermaid]

On the left bank of the Middle Rhine valley, i.e. in the hills along the river is the RheinBurgenWeg which runs from Bingen to Remagen (Rolandseck). It does not actually connect the castles as such but takes in villages, castles and vistas that include castles. This is the website: https://www.rheinburgenweg.com/en/rheinburgenweg-1

I find the website a bit lacking in info, I prefer the format of the Traumpfade website, where they even have a form of drone flight on a map over the routes.

As I do not have representative photos, I have looked around and found this nice video with impressions of section no. 10 from Bad Salzig to St. Goar:

As I said, challenging. I prefer to stay a bit more in the valley...

 

Occasionally, like in Brey, I do venture into the hills, usually aided by four wheels.

 

More on that in another post on the other side of the river where the Rheinsteig trail challenges hikers.

 

notamermaid

 

[notamermaid]

Short update: Kaub gauge stands at 94cm. Rain coming tomorrow, increasing Wednesday, further increasing Thursday. Also on Thursday storms in the hills in gusts reaching 9 on the scale, valley reaching 8.

 

notamermaid

 

[SCBarker]

4 hours ago, notamermaid said:

Short update: Kaub gauge stands at 94cm. Rain coming tomorrow, increasing Wednesday, further increasing Thursday. Also on Thursday storms in the hills in gusts reaching 9 on the scale, valley reaching 8.

 

notamermaid

 

Not what I'm wanting to hear as we head south from Köln tonight.

[notamermaid]

1 hour ago, SCBarker said:

Not what I'm wanting to hear as we head south from Köln tonight.

You are in Cologne, that is nice. I really like the bridge, Cathedral and embankment lit up at night. So you will be travelling through the Seven Mountains range overnight. Koblenz next stop? I cannot see any problems there occuring yet, if you sail through the Gorge during the afternoon there should also be little to no mist. Wind will probably increase the day after. I am sure the crew is well aware of the weather forecast and will take perfect care of you, no doubt about that.

 

If you want to check weather warnings you can look at DWD, where you can put in an individual town or area, for flooding, storm, etc.: https://www.dwd.de/DE/wetter/warnungen_landkreise/warnWetter_node.html?ort=Mainz

Easy to figure out the colour codes. I have put in Mainz for you.

 

Enjoy Koblenz and the Rhine Gorge and all other ports, too. ☺️

 

notamermaid

 

 

[SCBarker]

We leave Cologne now (10pm), and the next stop is Rüdesheim around 1:30pm tomorrow.

[notamermaid]

15 hours ago, SCBarker said:

We leave Cologne now (10pm), and the next stop is Rüdesheim around 1:30pm tomorrow.

It is nearly 1:30pm and I reckon you will soon be in Rüdesheim. A bit drizzly today unfortunately. I hope you have nevertheless had a fascinating morning in the Rhine Gorge.

 

Interesting itinerary that leaves out Koblenz. But Mainz is a great alternative I find.

 

notamermaid

 

[notamermaid]

It has turned misty out there, just like the warning says right now (see my link above). I am not in Mainz but my weather is similar. Storm brewing, starting tomorrow, worse in the hills than in the valley.

 

Kaub is now at 92cm. The rain tomorrow and mainly Thursday should be enough to keep the level low (which it is officially) but still manageable and from falling further.

 

Looks as if the weather could be a bit rough in the Black Forest around Freiburg starting Wednesday evening, but mainly in the high hills.

 

notamermaid