This autumn we will be visiting a number of West African ports including - Dakar, Banjul, Abidjian, Takoradi, Lomo, Sao Tome and Walvis Bay. Whilst we will take a complimentary ships tour in each port there will be time either before or after the tour to have some free time. Can anyone advise me whether it is practical and safe to wander ashore from the ship to local sights or do ships dock too far 'out of town.' Thank you.
Hi Johncb7,
Your cruise sounds wonderful and full of new, exciting and different destinations. I can perhaps help you with some of the ports as we have visited Dakar, Banjul, Sao Tome and Walvis Bay so below are extracts from my diaries concerning these places.
I am sure that you are aware that Dakar, Banjul and Sao Tome are all ‘developing countries’ and, by our standards, very poor so be prepared to have a less sophisticated experience. Namibia is much more prosperous.
We visited Dakar and Banjul in 2014 on a Fred Olsen Cruise and here is what I wrote:
CURRENCY.
Senegal - Senegal Francs
Gambia - Delasis
Most vendors and some shops will take € and US$. They will accept Euro coins but you may be asked to swap their Euro coins for notes (5€ Is the lowest denomination note) as it is difficult to change coins at the bank.
Many vendors have no real concept of the exchange rates for their local currency so it makes sense to check the rates on board so you know what you are bargaining for. I ask prices in local currency firs before swapping to €s or US$
DAKAR SENEGAL
docked at 07.30
Ship cleared at 08.25
Guests on board 19.15
Ship departs at 20.00
Ships tours meet in either Neptune or Coral lounges - details in previous evening's 'Daily Times'
1st tour meets at 07.55
City centre is approx 1.5km from dock
Shuttle bus runs from 09.15 to 17.30 on a continuous loop - £5pp tickets from reception. Unlimited use
Huge industrial port
Taxis on dock side near gangway
Small souvenir market on dock side. Need to haggle.
Currency is CFA (Senegalese Franc.) € and US$ are widely accepted in souvenir shops
Language is French.
WARNINGS
Medical, advice is to wear trousers, socks and long sleeved tops + insect repellent and not to buy water from street vendors.
danger of pick pockets so keep valuables well guarded
You will be hassled by beggars and traders.
The Senegal post office had a small stall selling cards and stamps just inside the ship by the gangway. Postcards €1 for 2 cards. Stamps were €2 and the gentleman will post them.
MY TOUR -SIGHTSEEING TOUR OF DAKAR (4hrs) £40pp
Met in Neptune Lounge at 13.40
On the bus at 14.00.
Bus was old but had working air conditioning.
Microphone didn't work so guide used a megaphone!
Dakar is a big bustling busy city but relatively poor by Western European standards.
Road surfaces are poor so ride was bumpy.
We were shown the best that Dakar has to offer which, again, is not a lot if compared with some other countries.
There were a couple of photo stops and there were souvenir sellers but they seemed quite respectful.
There was a 40 minute stop at a restaurant where there was the opportunity to watch the 'sand painting' artist and purchase pictures.
The other stops (10 mins each) were at the Presidential Palace and the Monument of the African Renaissance (a huge statue at the top of one of the only 2 hills in Dakar)
A beer/soft drink was included.
There were toilets.
The tour included driving past the palace, through the University grounds, through the street market, past the cathedral and mosque, along past Independence Square and en along the Cornish to see the coastline,
Couldn't go to the market as there was nowhere to park so back to the ship at 17.30.
There was a FO crew member with us throughout.
Was it worth it? That's a difficult question to answer but, on reflection, I would say yes because I think many people would find it quite intimidating to walk round the city centre. Don't get me wrong, the people seemed polite and pleasant but the roads were extremely busy and the pavements were really crowded. There didn't appear to be many of the types of shops that we are used to either. I also think you would have needed to have done a lot of research to know the best places to visit. I'm not sure how much English the taxi drivers would speak.
MY DH'S TOUR - SALOUM ISLANDS (8hrs)
Met in Neptune Lounge at 07.50
Off ship at 8.20
Bus was air conditioned.
2 guides that took turns to give information. Both spoke good English.
2.5 hour drive to the river through interesting countryside ....... Villages, farm land and forested areas.
10 min toilet stop at petrol station.....squat plate toilets
Bumpy ride once off the main road.
Small canoe type boat which held approx 14 passengers.
Had to climb in and out without aid from the beach....no steps etc .boat ride was approx 45mins
There was a choice of riding to the village by cart or doing a10 min walk.
Lunch was at the Island Eco-lodge.
Spring rolls, fish in light curry sauce, rice, salad and crepes.
Given a bottle of water at lunch.
This was followed by some free time.
There was a 50 minute ride to the 'shell village' where a local guide explained the history of the area.
Left the village at 16.45
Returned to the ship by a different route for part of the journey.
Back on board at 19.00
My DH said that he thoroughly enjoyed the tour as it gave him an inside into the history and geography of Senegal.
BANJUL, GAMBIA. GENERAL INFORMATION
docked just after 08.00
Cleared for disembarkation at 08.40
All aboard 17.15
Departure 18.00
Industrial port but nice views across to small beach and local small ferries
Approx 2 km into town centre.
Banjul could be even more of a culture shock than Dakar.
The currency is the Dalasis.....approx 63=£1
Most vendors accept € and US$ but you need to haggle....it's expected.
I didn't see any taxis on the dock side but they may have been hidden by the tour busses. There were a few taxis at the port gate 400m from the ship
There was 1 person holding up a passenger's name so I assume that was for a pre-arranged private tour.
IMHO walking into town would be a real challenge to the senses and sensibilities of someone who is used to more sophisticated urban surroundings.
I spoke to a couple who walked in to town and they were approached by several locals who offered to show them the sights. They said that they should have negotiated a price immediately with one of them which may have prevented the pestering.
There didn't seem to be a lot to see in the town centre.
OUR TOUR -'LAZY DAY CRUISE'
Met in Neptune Lounge at 08.30
Coach had air con.
Guide spoke good English and had a sense of humour
Ride was 30 mins
Drove through the centre of Banjul and then through the countryside to the river dock.
Short walk over rough ground to the jetties to board the boats,
A bit tricky to get on but plenty of helping hands.
Approx 20 passengers per boat and 5 crew including the guide.
Top deck is open with some garden chairs and lounging mats. There is a small covered area.
Downstairs has bench seats around the exterior sides of the boat with some cushions.
There is a small kitchen.
The toilet is a proper flushing one and there was toilet paper + a wash basin with soap.
cups of tea/coffee + 1 beer or 1soft drink we're complimentary. There was also a complementary glass of sparkling wine or orange juice at lunch.
Some boats had sets of binoculars and bird books for passenger use (ours didn't which was annoying as we could have brought our own)
Lunch consisted of shepherd’s pie, fish, salad, rice, French bread and fresh fruit ( mango, oranges and bananas)
We sailed in a loose convoy along the river. It was lined with just mangrove trees so the scenery was rather monotonous. There were several species of birds to spot including storks, kingfishers, ibis, bee eaters and rollers but not much else.
Our boat did stop in mid river for 30 mins so people could swim but the ladder was a bit rickety. Some boats pulled onto a beach so people could paddle or walk.
We visited Walvis Bay and Sao Tome in May 2015 on a Princess cruise
Walvis Bay, Namibia. WALVIS BAY WILD LIFE CRUISE.
A.M. Thick fog and cold early on. Some sunny periods by late morning but cold on the water.
P.M. Sunny but with a cool wind. Warm in sheltered areas.
Sea conditions: millpond calm.
Our tour group's meeting time was 08.00 in the Caberet lounge so we were going to have a bit of a lie-in but I woke up at 05.45 and decided to have my shower and go for breakfast early so I could watch the sail-in. Unfortunately, it was too foggy to see anything!
THE WALVIS BAY WILD LIFE CRUISE.
We left the ship at 08.15 by coach for the 10-minute drive to the boat dock and this is where my heart sank as it was right in the middle of the fish processing area and so the smell was awful. There were clean toilets and a tiny office area with a seat but that was about it.
The boats were small, semi-covered, fast game fishing style vessels which held 10/15 passengers.
There was no jetty so the tour boat firm had a narrow, extendable walk-way out from the mud flats and there were people to help you move along it.
Once on board our pilot and guide, Ruen (he had a great sense of humour) showed us that there was a toilet on board (small but adequate) and explained the safety rules before we set off across the bay.
This was where things improved and the fun began. Ruen stopped the boat in several places and we got very 'up close and personal' with pelicans, seals, dolphins and flamingos as well as many other sea birds and the sand dunes along the Namibian coast.
At times, the boat went very fast so it was a bumpy ride and sometimes I had to cling very tightly to the rail to stop myself bouncing off my seat but it was so exciting and exhilarating!
Ruen stopped the boat for 30 minutes by a sandbar and served sparkling wine, freshly shucked oysters and a variety of nibbles. Soft drinks and beer were offered throughout the trip.
We saw a lot and learned a lot so, despite the unpromising start we all had a great time. Hopefully, in years to come, the company will build a proper floating dock away from the fish processing plant and then the whole experience will be as great as the middle bit!
We were very glad that we had our fleeces and waterproof coats as it was very cold when we were moving and the spray was splashing over the sides.
It was a wonderful trip and well worth the money although I know a lot of people complained about the dock area.
A really great day.
WALVIS BAY.
The port is huge and very industrial.
There was a free shuttle to the port gate where there was a small craft market.
There were taxis available on the dock.
The town is larger and seems more prosperous than Luderitz with wide streets and good quality, modern housing.
The town centre is a good 20-minutes’ walk from the port gate.
There are a couple of shopping malls and supermarkets.
The majority of shops are closed on Saturday afternoon and all day on Sunday.
There is a large lagoon just outside the town with a pleasant promenade.
SAO TOME. Tender port.
A.M. Sunny, hot and humid.
P.M. Very, very hot and humid with cloudy intervals and quite a strong breeze.
Sea conditions: choppy on the tenders.
We got up early and got breakfast at 07.30 after coffee for Jim in bed and me on the balcony. It was a lovely 'sail-in' to São Tomé with lots of tiny fishing boat bobbing about on a turquoise calm sea and the volcanic peaks of the island as a backdrop.
As we got closer we could see some nice looking hotels and lush vegetation.
SAO TOMÉ
This was the first time a Princess ship had been to São Tomé and only the 2nd cruise ship ever so it was a bit chaotic to disembark.
It was a tender port so Jim went downstairs 08.30 to get in the queue for tickets. They started letting people into the lounge at 09.00 and we got tickets 29&30 but unfortunately there were over 300 elite passengers who had priority so we were way down the list.
The first tender was called at 09.45 and we left at 10.00 on the third one......not too bad!
The ride took just less than 10 minutes.
The dock was small and industrial.
There were toilet facilities in the terminal building.
Our passports were collected by the authorities to be stamped with the tourist visa and we collected them on the ship the following day.
The visa charge was added to our account........?
Once outside the terminal building there were several mini buses that had been pre-booked for private tours. There were several taxis of different sizes for hire.
Very little English was spoken.
Euros were widely accepted, US$ less so. There was no option to use credit/debit cards for purchases.
We negotiated a 5 hour round the island taxi tour for four people (Terry and Kerrie joined us) for €100.
The cab was old and the driver was young but we got round safely......everyone seems to drive like maniacs and the roads are pothole filled so it was quite a hair-raising experience.
The island population is mainly very poor by our standards but there was no hassle to buy souvenirs and sellers were few and far between.
The island really isn't geared up for tourism.
The town of Tomé is small and has a distinct Portuguese colonial feel but the buildings are shabby and in need of repair.
Our tour took us through the town where we saw the church and the market. We then drove high into the interior with its lush tropical vegetation and winding, and sometimes unpaved, roads to a small village where there was ‘The Museum of Coffee Bean Production’.
It was €2pp for the entry fee and that included a small cup of very strong but delicious local coffee.
I bought some local ground coffee for €3.70 a packet.
There was a clean toilet here.
From there we continued climbing higher until we reached a pretty waterfall and a view point over the whole island.
After that our driver proceeded down the mountain to another couple of churches and a fort where there was a small beach.
By this time, Kerry, Terry and I were feeling as if we had seen enough so the driver dropped us off back at the port and took Jim into town. Jim found a large supermarket and got some packets of nuts for himself and cans of tonic water for me. They would only accept local currency and Euros. There was no credit/debit card facility.
Another great day with a wonderful experience.
I hope you find the information helpful. Have a great time.
West African Ports
in Africa & Middle East
Posted
What a fantastic summary - clear and informative!