ruins in belize or cozumel

[kittiecat61]

we will be leaving for belize and cozumel on feb 23 ... does belize or cozumel have the best ruins excursion? We debated the altun ha and old belize river tour or the tulum mayan ruins..Any info would be great. thanks

[clackey]

we will be leaving for belize and cozumel on feb 23 ... does belize or cozumel have the best ruins excursion? We debated the altun ha and old belize river tour or the tulum mayan ruins..Any info would be great. thanks

Belize would be my pick for a ruins tour. I've seen good reviews of Altun Ha. Tulum is a good tour but it is not my pick from Cozumel. You have to take the ferry to Playa Del Carman and bus from there, so you have several hours wasted on travel. If you want to see Tulum, book a cruise to Calica next time.;)

 

P.S. You are sailing on my birthday so please read the next line.

[Toyz711]

make sure you check out lamanai and the river safari..it's a long day..but you get a lot of scenery, birds, some wildlife, plus the mayan ruins.

photos are in my webshot link under belize. also, others have reviews on this board.

[kenito799]

Belize has three excellent ruins sites, Xunatunich, Lamanai and Altun-Ha, it would be my pick for Mayan ruins. I have not been to Tulum but I have heard it is nice, especially for its location by the sea, but I don't think it is as extensive as the sites in Belize. Also the ferry to Playa del Carmen made one friend seasick.

[driftwood]

Cozumel is the more difficult port from which to visit significant Mayan ruins. Essentially the significant ruins for a cruise-tour day are Cobá, Tulum, and Muyil. Any of these requires a two-way ferry ride from Cozumel to the mainland, about 45 minutes each way, and then fairly hefty busrides to the sites. Tulum is probably the most scenic of all the sites, as it is the only site actually on the Caribbean coast, and perhaps not long before cascading into it. But it is small, contained, and can be seen from end to end in less than an hour and a half. The structures are not very imposing and do not lend themselves to climbing; and I don't think it is permitted anyway. Cobá has the tallest structure [Nohoch Mul] in the Yucatan, but it requires a good hike through the woods. Cobá also has a very attractive Ball Court: the ball courts at the sites in Belize are much smaller and less dramatic. Muyil's structures are very vertical and essentially they cannot be climbed by ordinary efforts, although they are very impressive to see. Prohibitive architecture.

 

From Belize City all Mayan sites are inland. Altun Ha, "a small, but surprisingly rich, major ceremonial centre occupied during the Classic period," is the closest to the cruiseship terminal, 30 miles north, half of which is over a pretty neglected highway. Have your dentist check your fillings before you go. It is a very majestic and beautiful site, and it is considered a "well-manicured park" by the Belize Tourism Board. Usually visits to Altun Ha are considered "half-day" trips.

 

Lamanai, which has "the longest known history of occupation in the Maya area" [900 B.C.--A.D. 1640] is a long day trip, including a 49-mile bus trip (twice), a boat trip down the New River (1.5 hours down, one hour back to the buses), and some hefty hiking. But the variety of temples there is pretty amazing, and for most people who are pretty energetic, this is the site of choice, as it offers quite a bit of wildlife--from birds and crocodiles to howler monkeys--and a "High Temple," a Jaguar Temple, a Mask Temple and a Temple of the Stela--the first two may be climbed, with some provision made for steps and, on the High Temple, a rope to hang on; as well as an attractive but undramatic ballcourt.

 

Xunantunich is the farthest inland, almost on the border of Guatemala. It is a late site which "rose to prominence and declined between AD 700 to 1000." So here we find the roof comb, the elaborate (replicated) stucco frieze, the rounded corners on the pyramids. Getting there requires a long bus trip past Belmopan and San Ignacio Town. Xunantunich more nearly approaches the massiveness which is so astonishing at Tikal and at Caracol, so if it is "big" you want this might be what you want. But all three sites prepared for cruise ship shore excursions in Belize are very impressive, and all are very different.

 

All quotations and dates above are from the excellent paperback by Dr. Jaime Awe, Maya Cities and Sacred Caves: A Guide to the Maya Sites of Belize (2nd ed., 2007). All the generalizations are my own, from having visited all of the sites between 2003-2008, each on at least one occasion (Cobá on three occasions; and all of the Belizean sites during a two-week period in January 2008).

 

There are mosquitoes at all sites. I don't care what anybody else tells you. I have heard them and seen them myself. Deep Woods Off! (25% DEET) proved adequate to discourage them in January 2008, but of course I may not be so delicious as you. All sites can be plenty hot; you need plenty of water and a good sun block before you dab or spray on your insect repellent. ;)

[texas poker]

Thanks for that in-depth review...just the info I was looking for.

[driftwood]

Thanks for your response, texas poker! Wherever you choose to visit, I do not think you will be disappointed. I know I'm hooked!

 

On our cruises we never went so far south as Belize, so until I started doing a lot of research on the Maya I never realized how massive the Mayan presence in Belize is, and all of our visits to Mayan sites were in the Yucatan and (rather more disappointingly) on Cozumel. When we visited Belize, my wife spurred us on across the Guatemala border to visit Tikal as well (much as she had spurred us over to Chichén Itzá when we were staying on the Mayan Riviera). But Tikal is a trip and a half, and probably shouldn't even be attempted by those planning on spending less than a month on site. It is so vast in extent and huge structurally that I don't even want to think about it. Caracol, nearly inaccessible in Belize, is alleged to be similar in size, and El Mirador somewhere to the west is said to dwarf both of these. My brain hurts to imagine El Mirador. Our next cruise is scheduled to be "snorkel only!" I need a rest!

 

So be glad that the sites which have been readied for shore excursions are somewhat more manageable! :D --And that at the end of a day however long and exhausting, you will be transported back to dine--and perhaps visit the spa--on your cruise ship. Belize does not yet enjoy restaurants of the quality available (with luck) on Cozumel, and rice'n'beans is an acquired taste--acquired at the rate of three meals a day if you actually stay in Belize. . . . (Unless they do have restaurants, as alleged, on Ambergris Caye, which we heard one woman to say was "now just like Miami Beach," where we did not visit).

[Lard Greystoke]

we will be leaving for belize and cozumel on feb 23 ... does belize or cozumel have the best ruins excursion? We debated the altun ha and old belize river tour or the tulum mayan ruins..Any info would be great. thanks

 

I visited Lamanai in Belize last year, definitely spectacular. I think you have several prospects in Belize. There's nothing to compare on the island of Cozumel itself, you would have to take the ferry to the mainland.

[obxer]

Xunantunich is the farthest inland, almost on the border of Guatemala. It is a late site which "rose to prominence and declined between AD 700 to 1000." So here we find the roof comb, the elaborate (replicated) stucco frieze, the rounded corners on the pyramids. Getting there requires a long bus trip past Belmopan and San Ignacio Town. Xunantunich more nearly approaches the massiveness which is so astonishing at Tikal and at Caracol, so if it is "big" you want this might be what you want. But all three sites prepared for cruise ship shore excursions in Belize are very impressive, and all are very different.

 

. ;)

To driftwood or anyone?

How long is the bus ride to Xunantunich ? Does it have any "sightseeing" qualities or is it a boring bus ride. WE were thinking of going to Xunantunich on our Belize port of call stop, but are a little apprehensive of that long bus ride, Or is it not that long.

[Toyz711]

i just know that our ship had cancelled it, due to lenght of tour and it being late getting back. i used this site to compare the ruins and learn more about it. the thing i liked about lamanai, it wasn't just a bus ride or a boat ride...it was both. gave us time to stretch our legs and keeps the joints from aching.

http://www.belizeexplorer.com/cgi-local/explorer.cgi?db=explorer&uid=default&Category=Mayan+Sites&view_records=1&nh=1

 

http://www.belizeexplorer.com/cgi-local/explorer.cgi?db=explorer&uid=default&Category=Mayan+Sites&view_records=1&nh=6&mh=1

 

they have a small map that shows the locations of each site.

[driftwood]

Sixty miles one way is sixty miles. The first half is flatland savannah, which if you have not seen before may be very interesting--you will probably see a number of different swampland birds and hawks, and a sprinkling of mangrove swamps among the grasslands. During this period your guide will probably be very active 1). looking for something interesting to point out to you and 2). giving you a short history of Belize and whatever else he can think of. The second half, however, will speak for itself: you come into the foothills of the Maya Mountains, and great upheavals shoot up out of the flat land in a very strange and dramatic fashion. Then you begin to pass into a much more vegetated zone (just past Belmopan), with some really beautiful scenery--you might even see parrots flying by--hills, valleys, rivers--until you reach the ferry to Xunantunich, which crosses the BEAUTIFUL Mopán River at a point that looks about as wide as three lengths of the ferry itself. Have your camera out--if you have not had it out during the rest of the trip--as this may be the most beautiful river you have ever seen, in both directions, and the ferry itself is pretty droll and photo-worthy. You might want to get your wallet out, too, as while you are waiting for the ferry to cross with your vehicle (you can't stay in it while it is going across--only the driver), a mass of very polite but very needy vendors will descend on your party to sell you slate carvings (a traditional Maya occupation, although the carvings themselves have become rather formulaic and unfortunately no longer original), and I think carvings of mahogany. (DW dealt with the cheerful natives while I was dealing with the cameras, so I know little of the commercial details except that everyone was delighted in the end, even DW). So if that is the sort of thing you like, it is a good sort of place to like them, as you will DEFINITELY be putting rice'n'beans on somebody's plate that evening. ;)

 

Once across the Mopán you are on the site of Xunantunich, and that will keep you busy for some while. Even if you are NOT the designated photographer!

 

Perhaps the best news is that the entire trip is a straight run down the Western Highway (from Belize City to Xunantunich), which is one of three first-rate highways in Belize, so there is never any discomfort of any kind unless crossing a few speed bumps very gingerly bothers you unduly.

 

The return trip is the opposite of the trip out, although the morning birds may have changed to the afternoon birds, and the shadows will be running in the opposite direction. I would keep my camera out for the whole trip, because much that happens may come unexpectedly, and usually if it is interesting your driver will stop and let you get a good picture. If your camera is stowed away, you won't get a picture, and your driver will not know you are interested and may just drive straight there without stopping. :D

[obxer]

Thanks Drift, that was great info, sounds like a worthy expenditure of our time.

[kenito799]

Great info, driftwood...

 

We loved Lamanai. You sound like you need a vacation to Chiapas to see the Mayan sites in Mexico...we had a wonderful two weeks there. From the gorgeous highland colonial city of San Cristobal de las casas (sort of like a mini-Cuzco) you descend to the hot jungle plain where the Maya had their cities. Palenque is huge and amazing, and the riverside location of Yaxchilan is similar to Lamanai (if even more remote). The small site of Bonampak has incredibly impressive and well-preserved multicolored murals. I will definitely get to Tikal one day...

[driftwood]

Unfortunately I need a beach to lure my DW along on these little forays. We may never get to one during our actual visit--as we almost didn't in Belize--but the illusion has to be created. So far I can't even figure out a persuasive scenario for Uxmal!

 

Take your aspirin BEFORE you go to Tikal--once you have seen it, it will be too late . . . . :rolleyes: And if you want to photograph much, you will need a VERY wide angle lens! It wouldn't hurt to be half mountain goat, for that matter . . . .

[OttoCal]

Did you put any of your Belize pics up online yet? Would love to see them if you did. Shoot me an e-mail or post a link if available please. :o

 

I'd be happy to share my Mariner pics if you are looking for an additional way to fritter away 10-5 minutes of a your day anytime soon.

 

OttoCal/Lisa

[driftwood]

. . . are rather large files (about 3 MB each), which I am happy to share with those whose email addresses can accommodate files that large--and of course there are ways to reduce the size in particular situations. I have not yet grown so wizard at Internet that I have a site or use one,--I keep pretty busy just going through what I have taken on my own computer--but I have uploaded a number of pictures to Panoramio for consideration for Google Earth (ten of my earlier pictures, in Mexico and in St. Maarten, can be seen on Google Earth under "Douglas W. Reynolds, Jr.")

 

Drop me an email at dreynolds@aol.com and let me know what you would like to see--if you have a preference--and how many of them--and I will try to keep you amused for a while! Got some nice fish pictures out at the reef when we visited Caye Caulker, too! :rolleyes: