Live Blogging from Veendam in Alaska May 30 - June 7

[cantw8togo]

My 8yr old DS would love to do the gold mine tour when we are in Juneau. Do you recall seeing that tour available from vendors off the ship? I have read that it is only available through the cruise lines, but the timeslot that it is offered conflicts with other plans that we have, and we are only in port for the afternoon and evening.

 

Thanks for any insights,

 

N.

[DisneyKidsDad]

Erica,

 

What a great report. My family and I are thinking about an Alaska cruise.

I know I should have asked this question sooner but, have you seen any

tours that would be wheelchair accessable? Meaning transportation with

a wheelchair lift?

[nanc847]

Hi Erica,

 

I am enjoying your daily blogs from each port. We are excited about our cruise tour that begins 9 July sailing on Celebrity Millenium. You are adding so much info about the tours and the area.

 

How about a mosquito report. Other posters that travelled there in May have said those buggers were really bad. Thanks in advance.

[writerhenn]

Erica...

 

This is some great stuff. We are taking a cruise (Whittier to Van) Aug. 24, and guessing the weather then will be close to what your are experiencing. Is that a correct observation to your knowledge? Any help on shore excursions you consider not to missed (along with $$) will be of great help.

[WestCan]

Hard to believe but true. We were in I 222 and the air conditioner kept running. The thermostat had no power(no light indicater). The couple in next cabin also had this problem. These cabins were part of the new deck extension and were probably not completed in the drydock refit. When you opened the door, you were hit by a cold blast of air. 7 days to fix theromostat; 10 days to get telephone working in the room,and someone came in and hooked up the cd/dvd player after that(not that we needed it). It was a bad experience. 73 days with HAL and first problems.

[jz6982]

Hi Erica. Now having experienced Mendenhall by land and sea, which did you prefer? I am crusing to Alaska at the end of Aug and a kayaking excursion had peaked my interest. Would it be possible to do both if time permitted?

[GiantEeyore]

Erica,

 

We are booked for Alaska Sept 2, 09, also taking a wheelchair. Any port or excusion information reguarding wheelchair access would be most appriciated.

 

Thanks

[hornpeddler]

Erica, we are cruising on the same ship and cruise in July. I really appreciate the information you are providing.

[simon95]

will you try the famous train ride and the whale watching ? And comment.

[lancelady]

Can you please tell me if HAL allows smoking in cabins on this ship also

where are the no smoking areas.

We are thinking of a cruise on this ship and the smoking is my problem

get very ill and cannot swallow. Hoping HAL has changed their smoking

policy. Thank you.

[Erica@cruisecritic]

Sometimes you just need to escape the crowds and get back to nature. Instead of joining countless others on the White Pass Summit Scenic Railway -- which I hear is beautiful -- my travel companion Zoe and I decided to go hiking on one of the many trails easily accessed from downtown Skagway. I mention Zoe because I'm a firm believer in not hiking alone. I'm also a firm believer in hiking in proper shoes, taking plenty of water and snacks, getting a trail map, and bringing a rain jacket just in case. This public service message goes out to the woman starting up the trail in cute little ballet flats.

Skagway's town center is a two-minute walk from the cruise ship (there are three different berth areas, so it might be as long as five from yours). We stopped at the Trail Center to get a map and ask which trail was the best option because this early in the season, trails may be muddy or snow-covered. The ranger recommended a seven-mile hike along Dewey Lake and down to Sturgill's Landing. If you want a shorter but still scenic hike, it's less than a mile to the lake and back and 3.6 miles if you want to circumnavigate the lake.

The trailhead is accessed by walking down Second Street, crossing the railroad tracks and looking for the sign for the Dewey Lake Trail System. The hike up to the lake is the steepest; it's relatively flat around the lake but there's a lot of scrambling over rocks. The spur off to Sturgill's Landing hits a few steep descents, the last one over rocky terrain. We cut our hike short when we realized we could stop for a snack on a flat rock with a fabulous view, rather than working our way down the slope of loose rocks.

And the views throughout the hike were worth the effort. Skagway is surrounded by snowy peaks emerging from the forests, and we could see them encircling us from all angles. The forest is lovely, with moss-covered trees forming green wonderlands in some spots and rushing waters flowing in and out of the lake. We didn't see any wildlife but a couple we passed saw an otter, and it is bear country so do keep an eye out as you walk.

The hike took us about four hours, perhaps a little longer since we stopped several times for photo taking and snacking. We made a point of getting up early and starting the hike before 9 a.m. to avoid both the crowds and the heat of the day. We only passed a few other hikers on the way in, but on the way back, the trail was more crowded with group after group coming up. We felt like salmon swimming against the current as we walked in the opposite direction to everyone else. If you visit Skagway on a cool day, you may want to wait for the weather to warm up before venturing out, but while it's still hot (and today was yet another warm, sunny day) you'll definitely be happier starting early.

Plus, an early hike means more time to shop -- or otherwise explore Skagway. Hidden between all the diamond and T-shirt stores are some locally owned shops. I bought my niece a birthday gift at Alaskan Fairytales, which has some Alaska-themed baby clothes and toys made specially for the store. The ranger station leads free historic walking tours if you'd like to learn about Gold Rush times in Skagway. And I didn't investigate, but actresses dressed as "good time girls" were perched in the second-story windows of one of the buildings on the main drag, calling out to the pedestrians and encouraging them to attend their show. Perhaps you'll check it out when you come to Alaska -- it might very well be a good time.

[Erica@cruisecritic]

Forgot to post these above!

[Erica@cruisecritic]

When the sun is bearing down on you in the heat of the day and your legs are tired from hiking seven miles, it's quite convenient to be staying on a cruise ship with a newly redone pool deck! Exchanging sweaty hiking clothes for a bathing suit and cover-up, I was up on the Lido Deck within minutes of arriving back onboard.

The plan was to cool off in the pool, then head to the Retreat to use the hot tubs while staring out at the mountains. But for some unknown reason, the pool water was incredibly hot -- almost at hot tub temperatures. I guess it was therapeutic for my aching calves, but I couldn't even bear to dunk my head, the water was so warm.

So back to the Retreat I went -- which is tricky when you don't want to get dressed just to walk through the Lido Restaurant. It turns out you can go up to Deck 12, cut through the basketball court, and then take the stairs down to Deck 11 aft, but it's a bit roundabout. The water in the resort pool was like ice but I braved it to take a photo of me in a swimsuit with snow-capped Alaskan mountains rising up behind me. When the water is slightly warmer, it must be lovely to read on one of the lounge chairs, occasionally dipping your toes into the cooling waters. Instead, I went to the hot tub, which was not as hot as the main pool, but the bubbles felt really good on my tired limbs. And the view was incredible.

Two odd things about the Retreat: Black soot or dirt speckled the lounge chairs and decking, which was unappetizing. I don't know if it's soot from Veendam's smokestack (or one of the other ships nearby), but you might want to take an extra towel to cover up the chair before sitting down. Also, Veendam has a new movie screen above the Retreat, but so far it's been playing Holland America propaganda films (video of ships sailing through Alaska, salmon jumping in slow motion and glaciers calving). As we've all already booked passage on an Alaska cruise, it would be nice to have a nature film that doesn't seem like one big ad.

 

[Photo is me in the Retreat. Only because I like you all am I posting a public picture of me in a swimsuit!]

[Erica@cruisecritic]

This year, Cruise Critic has seen some ridiculously cheap deals on Alaska cruises, with inside cabins starting as low as $299. Now is clearly the time to get a bargain, and Alaska trips may be luring more travelers with very strict vacation budget. If you want to see Alaska but can't spend a lot of money, here are a couple of things to think about before you buy:

--Shore excursions in Alaska are expensive. Many tours are over $100 per person, including kayaking, whale watching and riding the White Pass Railway. Anything involving a plane will cost over $200 per person.

--In order to really see what's special in Alaska, you really must get out of town. Ketchikan and Juneau have minimal attractions within walking distance of the ship. You can visit the totem parks near Ketchikan and Juneau's Mendenhall Glacier for cheap, but for a more memorable trip, you'll want to delve deeper into wilderness areas. After spending a few hours wandering around Ketchikan, I was really wishing I had booked a tour. Skagway has slightly more to do in town, especially if you like hiking or history.

--If you can afford shore excursions (and remember to price compare the ship's tours with independent operators), you can save money with low cruise fares and spend the savings on more spectacular tours. However, if you're looking for the best cheap vacation money can buy, I'd recommend a Caribbean cruise where you can walk off the ship, spend the day at the beach and feel like you've made the most of your day in port.

[Erica@cruisecritic]

Hi Erica. Now having experienced Mendenhall by land and sea, which did you prefer? I am crusing to Alaska at the end of Aug and a kayaking excursion had peaked my interest. Would it be possible to do both if time permitted?

 

I preferred sea. The hike is mostly a hike through the woods with a view of the glacier at the end. With the canoe trip, we had views of the glacier for hours and got really close to both it and the glacial ice floating in the lake. You won't get much different views of the glacier from the hike than you do from a canoe. Only a helicopter or float plane trip will bring a new perspective.

 

If you like hiking and are coming to Alaska more in the summer, I'd recommend the canoe trip followed by a hike on top of Mt. Roberts.

[Erica@cruisecritic]

We are going the opposite way as you (Seward to Vancouver). Can you find out when the formal nights are on that sailing, if that's not too much to ask?

 

Yes, they're in College Fjord and Juneau on the next cruise (Seward to Vancouver), but I can't guarantee that will definitely be the case on your cruise.

[lovebug33]

Thanks! We are on the next cruise. I will miss reading your last couple of entries!

[avesmawmaw]

We are booked on the June 21st SB I would like to have our vow renewal then for our 30th Is there anyway you could find out if there is as set night for that. I was hoping for a formal night.

Thanks

[pat-n-eil]

...

The joke of the evening was why waiters on cruise ships always ask you if you want fresh pepper on every dish you order -- including chilled fruit soups. Does anyone know? ...

 

My wife is a fruit pepperer. I've noticed when she has cantaloup or musk melon, she always puts pepper on it. I would assume that she'd want pepper on her chilled fruit soup. I personally don't go for it - but then I prefer fruit or sugar on my cottage cheese and she also uses the pepper.

 

So, in summary, some folks are fruit pepperers :)

[beachluxury4me]

To Kimba45 we are bringing our children (four daughters) on a cruise to Alaska in July too. We are thinking hard about good family excursion in Juneau and Skagway. Have you decided on any outings while in port for your gang?

[kimba45]

We are still in the planning stages for excursions......my seven year old boy wants to see whales, bears, zipline and fish so the excursions for Ketchikan and Juneau are centered around those adventures...we are doing a land tour after our cruise thus we have 14 days in Alaska to plan.....we will be on the Veendam July 12th Let us know how we can meet you if your on our ship.....

[judynorth]

To Kimba45 we are bringing our children (four daughters) on a cruise to Alaska in July too. We are thinking hard about good family excursion in Juneau and Skagway. Have you decided on any outings while in port for your gang?

 

You might consider Harv and Marv for whale watching in Juneau. They have smaller boats that would just fit your family. In Skagway you could rent a van and drive into the Yukon. It is a beautiful drive.

[pat-n-eil]

My family have been to Alaska 4 times. Family trip, family & friend's trip and twice just as a couple. One of the very best experiences we've had in Juneau was on a whale watching trip to Auke Bay which we've taken 3 times and was both different and wonderful each time.

 

The company we used (found by accident the first time) was Orca Enterprises with Captain Larry. He's the guy the other whale watching boats follow! On our first trip, the whale watching was so-so, but on the way back we had the best Bald Eagle experience ever. Dozens of Eagles flying around us, diving for fish right next to our whale watching jet boat.. it was great and what we talk about most from our first cruise.

 

Orca Enterprises

http://www.orcaenterprises.com/

 

As far as Ketchikan goes - we've had hit and miss excursions from there, but we highly reccommend the Great Alaskan Lumberjack Show which was offered as an excursion on every Alaskan cruise we've been on. Great for the whole family.

http://www.lumberjackshows.com/alaska/

 

PT

[Erica@cruisecritic]

Sorry for the radio silence -- I spent all morning positioned at the bow of the ship, watching Veendam sail through Glacier Bay. We entered the national park around 7 a.m., and by 7:30 a.m. I was up on deck. The highlight of Glacier Bay is the Marguerite Glacier, which is quite large and calves quite frequently (calving is when chunks of ice fall from the glacier into the water -- the loud sound this makes is aptly named "White Thunder"). Not every Alaska itinerary includes Glacier Bay because permits are limited by the National Park Service. But it's truly a highlight.

Here are my tips for a Glacier Bay trip:

--Dress in layers. You'll want to pack a hat, gloves, windbreaker or rain jacket, and warm layers such as a fleece jacket, sweater, sweatshirt, etc. As you know it's been unusually hot on this cruise, and today's weather was sunny and clear. And when the ship stopped by the glacier, it was quite warm in the sun. But on the journey in, I was bundled up in a long-sleeve T-shirt, fleece jacket, rain jacket, hat and gloves. And that's during good weather!

--Bring binoculars. Several members have asked about binoculars, and I say bring 'em. From Glacier Bay, I saw seals, otters, eagles and puffins, and it's possible to see whales, mountain goats and bears. However, to get a clear view you need to have binoculars (a very good zoom lens on your camera can be a reasonable substitute). You can buy binoculars onboard, but it's probably best to bring your own or borrow a friend's for the trip. If you like wildlife, it's well worth schlepping the pair.

-- Get up early. The cruise into Glacier Bay is stunningly beautiful, and in the morning hours, the atmosphere is quite calm and serene as you glide by mountain ranges in the soft light. Plus, there are fewer people out on deck so you can really have the views to yourself. A member of the park service team was stationed at the bow to record how marine mammals interact with the ship, and he pointed out birds and animals that we never would have noticed on our own.

--Get out on deck. It's tempting to stay inside the warm cruise ship when it's colder out on deck, but you really have to hear the White Thunder to get the full glacier experience. If you must, stay in the warmth of the Crow's Nest or indoor lounges until the ship reaches Marguerite Glacier and then head outdoors.

--Don't encourage the cruise lines! Starting early in the morning, waiters circulated the outer decks offering coffee and hot chocolate in souvenir mugs, and the ship's photographers kept asking if we wanted our photo taken. It's really easy to bring your own coffee mug and fill it for free in the Lido before heading outdoors (or taking five minutes to run upstairs when you get thirsty), and any friendly cruiser will take your picture if you just ask politely. I find it annoying to be constantly approached to buy something, and if no one takes the sellers up on the offers, perhaps the ship's staff will stop doing it. I do commend Holland America for offering hot pea soup -- for free -- to guests standing outside in the cold to view the glacier.

[Erica@cruisecritic]

I'm still researching answers to a bunch of questions, especially the ones on wheelchair accessibility, smoking and kids. If I haven't answered your question and you posted it early, please re-post it in case I forgot to jot it down.

Here are some answers to questions asked on this thread:

Naturalist -- There is not a naturalist on Veendam. Cindy, the ship's Travel Guide, is a native Alaskan and gives talks about Alaska and Alaskan culture. And in Glacier Bay, members of the park service come onboard to narrate the trip and to answer guests' questions. Also in that group is a representative from the Tlingit culture who gives a presentation on his people.

Weather -- May/June and late August/September tend to have the best weather, both warm and dry. July and August can be rainy. Also by late July or August, the mountain snows have melted, and the scenery is not quite as stunning. However, if you're interested in fishing, the salmon begin running in the summer; I haven't seen any fish on my cruise because they're not around. Late-season guests may be able to see the Northern Lights, but the trade-off is that days are shorter (you need darkness to see the Aurora Borealis). September cruisers can also find the best deals on Alaska souvenirs as shops onboard and in port sell off the current season's merchandise before the ships reposition to warmer regions.

Best Excursions -- I've heard rave reviews about many excursions. Cruisers on the whale watching tours saw a ton of wildlife, including multiple types of whales, so those excursions sounded like excellent options. The Best of Juneau tour combines a whale watch, trip to Mendenhall Glacier and a salmon bake for a good all-in-one trip. The White Pass Railway is always popular; not only is the scenery beautiful, but guests on my cruise saw a bear from the train. If you're willing to splurge, helicopter and float plane tours offer spectacular views, but I heard reports that turbulence had many participants green around the gills. I'd recommend kayak tours for the adventurous because you really feel the awesomeness of your surroundings. However, for any option, evaluate the price of the trip against what you get. My canoe trip in Juneau was quite fun, but at $136 a pop, it didn't seem like such great value. Remember, tours will be more expensive in Alaska than in the Caribbean because in general prices are more expensive in this remote location.

Mosquitos -- I haven't seen a single mosquito, and I've been playing in the woods and by lakes. I don't know if they're not a problem this far south in Alaska or if it's simply too early in the season. I'd recommend consulting a guidebook or the Internet about the nasty biters.

Gold mine tour -- I didn't note seeing gold mine tours or gold panning expeditions on sale at the tour kiosks in Juneau, but I wouldn't be surprised if those tours are available. Instead of chancing it, look up providers on the Internet or call Juneau's tourism office to inquire about tour availability and times. I did see dog sledding, flightseeing, whale watching, fishing and glacier viewing tours on sale, as well as salmon bakes. But I didn't check every kiosk.

Noisy lanai cabins -- After five nights in my lanai cabin, I'd say that, yes, they're somewhat noisier than other cabins. The 5:30 a.m. window washing has awakened me on several mornings, and there just seems to be a lot more activity outside our window, between early morning walkers and deck maintenance. It doesn't help that the self-service launderette is directly opposite my cabin door, so I've got noise on both sides.