GeneBK

I am on the Ryndam for 21 days in June. Reading the recent thread on the new internet service on several ships, I'm nervous. The internet is very important to my peace-of-mind and enjoyment of the cruise.

Was the switch to the new provider fleet-wide?? Is it on the Ryndam? If so, how is it working?? I'm not as much concerned about cost as performance.

I'm considering upping my cellular data roaming package...at least I can use that in ports.

Thanks

Yes, two landings and one Zodiac tour were included in the South Georgia portion of our Dec. cruise.

We didn't prefer to be away for the holidays, so we had chosen the Christmas cruise with some reluctance. But, now we are SO glad we did!!!

First, we enjoyed being "early" in the season in Antarctic....more snow at our landing sites gave it the real Antarctic adventure feel.

And the South Georgia portion was excellent (we had previously been to the Falklands, so missing that was not an okay trade). The Salisbury Plain on South Georgia was the highlight....truly one of those very special and most memorable experiences.

HotRoot---

Outside comfort is totally a function of wind. Temperatures were pretty steady in the 30-38 range. When the wind swirls, and perhaps it's snowing, it's chilling. If it's calm and the sun catches you, it feels warm.

The parka, with it's insulated jacket beneath, is fine for the outer layer. We just adjusted the inner layers, from as little as a light shirt, to as much as three warmer layers, depending. A good quantity of light and medium layers gives lots of options.

We stayed comfortable throughout....but we never changed clothes so many times in our lives!

Hope you have a wonderful time...we certainly have.

Dec 24---Day #4 Antarctica

Another good day. The ship was positioned in Paradise Harbor, off Waterboat Point, where Chile’s Gonzalez Videla Station is located (small summer-only research center manned by 12 members of the Chilean military). Weather was overcast, light winds, calm harbor, temperatures mid 30’s. First color group called per schedule at 8:00am, with the other four groups following at 75 minute intervals. The site is a bit cramped, but once on shore there was a short walk past several penguin groups, and the glorious Paradise Harbor was a perfect photo backdrop in all directions. At present, most of the site is still snow covered, slippery in narrow high-traffic paths, mushy where the snow was deeper and less disturbed. We could also look into most of the buildings, as well as a museum/“souvenir shop”. The site itself did not provide a sense of Antarctic adventure, but it was interesting, the scenery in all directions was spectacular. The Zodiac rides in and out were highlighted by some wonderful iceberg “sculptures” which the Zodiacs would weave through slowly.

Dec 25---Day #5 Antarctica

At the evening briefing after Day #4, Robin West mentioned high wind forecast for this day…..and there were worries that we wouldn’t be able do landings. But, Mother Nature gave us a real Christmas present. Light winds, high clouds with the sun trying hard to break through, and calm waters next to Cuverville Island. This, for me, was by far the best of the landings. There was a marked path, at beach level, in both directions to view penguin rookeries, but there was also a vast uphill area which we were free to explore. We hiked upwards for nearly a mile, and reached an elevation of 400’….doesn’t sound like much, but satisfying work in knee deep snow for part of the way. The expedition team had created a footstep ladder which helped on the early steep stretch, and later the snow was more wind packed and one could walk on top. Many guests didn’t go up the hill, some went partway, some higher. Again, independent options. The views in all directions were breathtaking. Our color group was the last in rotation, so there was no way to stretch on shore time a bit….the last Zodiac was the last Zodiac! This was the one time I felt a bit frustrated to not have more time ashore, but the day was glorious and I could only be thankful for what we had. The final piece of fun was sliding down the steeper part of the hill, toboggan style (but without a toboggan). Snow made it into several layer of clothes, but it was lots of fun.

Keep in mind—our experiences are based on Dec 20-25 conditions. As the “summer” progresses, conditions will undoubtedly change, in many ways……less snow, many penguin chicks (we still mostly see nest-sitting), etc.

Dec 26---

On the original itinerary, this was to be our fifth day of Antarctica, but as previously posted we got here early and had the good fortune of making an unscheduled landing on “Day #0”. Going into the evening wrap-up/briefing Dec 25, we still expected that we were heading back to the South Shetlands for one more landing or Zodiac tour. And, that had indeed been the plan throughout the day. However, at the meeting, Robin announced that he and the captain had come up with a last minute change in plan. Having had five successful days in Antarctic, we would bypass the South Shetlands and speed onward to arrive at South Georgia Island a day early. This will give us three days in South Georgia, rather than the two scheduled. (Our itinerary is the only one this winter making the South Georgia call.) They strongly believe this change provides better variety.

So we are presently at sea for two days, and our Antarctic Experience common to all itineraries, is concluded. It is an absurd understatement to say----we have been most fortunate….the experience has been wonderful....more than we dared hope for.

Re: life on board. The usual mix of standard activities....dance lessons, bridge, trivia, etc. etc. In all honesty, we've never done much of this sort of thing, so I don't know the level of participation. Fitness room has been well utilized, but there has always been at least a machine or two available when I've gone there. There are three to four lectures from the expedition team throughout the day.....photography, wildlife, science/geology, etc. Add the constant camera grab to go outside at Seabourn Square or the Observation Bar. I certainly haven't heard any complaints of boredom!

Dec 23---Day #3 Antarctica

At last evening’s Recap/Briefing, we were told we were leaving the South Shetlands, heading for the Antarctic Sound, where we would arrive by midnight. The Captain and team would then evaluate the ice condition to determine our options for Day #3. It was hoped that we would make landing at Brown Bluff. Weather forecast was for clear skies, early calm, with winds likely to develop in the later morning. Thus, an early schedule was announced---first color group to assemble at 5:30am, second at 6:45, etc.

We were also told that the ice in the Antarctic sound and the prospect for clear skies meant a memorable sunrise would be worth getting up early. Early indeed…..sunrise would be about 2:30am. (I can’t report on the beauty of this…..the days have been delightfully long and active, and we chose to sleep until 6:00am).

Upon arising, we were greeted by a beautiful blue sky, brilliant sunshine, calm winds, and gorgeous views. However, we learned that there was too much ice in the Sound to permit safe landing at Brown Bluff, and the ship had relocated to Hope Bay. We would not have a landing today, but were instead being given Zodiac tours around the ice formations, on the same schedule of rotation. The first three color groups accomplished this, but shortly after the fourth group had begun, it was announced that the winds had increased, and the ice was closing in on the ship. All Zodiacs were called back and passengers boarded the ship as quickly and safely as possible. We were in the fourth color group, and were awaiting our Zodiac when the announcement came, so we did not make it off the ship. Those in the earlier groups reported it was an enjoyable experience.

Once the passengers were on board, the loading platform and the Marina (where most Zodiacs are stored) were raised, and we quickly moved away from the rapidly approaching ice. The Zodiacs were still in the water, and moved beside the ship in a small flotilla as we relocated. Once safely relocated, the Marina was again lowered, and the Zodiacs came on board.

We then proceed across the Sound to come close to a huge tabular iceberg….an opportunity for excellent pictures.

We then left the Sound and re-entered the Bransfield Strait, heading southwest along the Peninsula towards a position where the team could assess our options for Day #4. The afternoon provided distant views of the Peninsula, along with innumerable passing icebergs.

LoveBora---shore activity is entirely independent, not a group thing. Once we exit the Zodiac in the "wet landing", an expedition team leader explains the area that is available to explore, and there are flags marking paths and expedition team members distributed over the flagged paths and area, mostly to answer questions and tell you where you can't go. One can walk a little or a lot....linger long for particular pictures (like at a penguin rookery), or snap a couple and move on. Once you've had enough, you return to the Zodiac landing point, and wait for the next available Zodiac back to the ship (usually only a 5-10 minute wait). Some passengers have returned after only 20-30 minutes....others remain for the full 75 minutes (or maybe a little more :)) Some have covered a lot of ground, others just a short stroll.

Antarctica Day #2---December 22---

As said in my earlier post, our first landing was yesterday at Half Moon Island. As I now understand it, after Robin West’s evening recap and briefing yesterday, it was an unexpected bonus landing for us. We had been assigned five landings, the first of which was scheduled for today. Half Moon Island was assigned yesterday to the Lindblad/National Geographic Explorer, which was in Ushuaia when we were. However, their departure from Ushuaia was delayed when 33 passengers had delayed luggage…..so they were unable to make their schedule and they offered us the landing “reservation”. A bonus for us.

Today, we again had excellent weather, and a smooth succession of all color groups going ashore in rotation. Sunny and warm (40 degrees)….layers were quickly removed and most ended up with bare hands and no hat. The site was Yankee Harbor on Greenwich Island. A flat site surrounded by mountains, the walking area was partly snow (crusty top which sometimes broke through, the foot sinking into the snow to the knee), and partly small stones and rocks. Covering the full circuit proved to be 2.3 miles of walking (some more difficult than yesterday), total time about one and half hours. Gentoo penguins and elephant seals were the attractions, as well as the sunshine and fresh air. The weather made the day very enjoyable, but for me the site had a bit less of the drama and feel of Antarctic character in the terrain.

Re: specific questions---parkas are comfortable, not bulky, and warm enough for the weather we've had so far. If we get a colder, windy day, extra layer beneath should do the job. (Although I say “not bulky”, I must admit that once fully clothed, hat on, hood up, and Zodiac life jacket on, I feel about as graceful as a penguin.)

We have a total of 434 passengers including the expedition team. It has not felt crowded, although many linger at breakfast and lunch, and table hunting for empty tables is sometime a challenge. This has eased on landing days, since the Zodiac rotation alters everyone’s schedule.

Before we left for our Dec 11 Valparaiso-Buenos Aires cruise, I read with interest every morsel of information about the prior cruise. The following is offered in the assumption that others on later cruises may be watching for information as well. I may error in the direction of unnecessary detail…..if so, apologies.

The first nine days of this excursion have been nearly perfect.

We have been very fortunate with weather….sunny days for our stops in Ponte Montt, Castro, Chacabuca, Punta Arenas, and Ushuaia. The first day at sea out of Valparaiso was quite choppy/rough, but the seas of course calmed in the fjords. The “sight-seeing” days in the fjords were mostly cloudy with occasional showers, but pleasant viewing…..including the Amalia Glacier.

We were independent in Ponte Montt and Castro, but went on the kayak trip from Chacabuco (very good), the speedboat to Magdalena Island (excellent), and the catamaran at Ushuaia (very good).

Shortly after leaving Valparaiso we were informed that the itinerary had been changed—one less day sight-seeing in the fjords so that we would be in Ushuaia one day early, and therefore depart for Antarctica a day early as well.

We had wonderful smooth (by Drake Passage standards) seas yesterday and made better than expected time down, catching sight of the South Shetlands at about 4:00am this morning, the second morning out of Ushuaia, much earlier than expected. We had been told that today would be at sea, but shortly after 6:00am announcement was made in suites that the decision had been made to do our first landing immediately, while conditions were good. The landing site was Half Moon Island, a tiny island next to Livingston Island in the South Shetlands.

All passengers are assigned to one of five color groups….and it was announced that Purple would report at 7:30am, Green at 8:45, Red at 10:00, etc. Zodiac procedures were very smooth; and although the schedule was moved back a bit as the day progressed, announcements were frequent and kept everyone well informed. When our color was announced, we left the room fully clothed for shore. In the Club, we were helped into our lifejackets, and then went into the boot storage area on the back deck to put boots on. Twenty minutes from leaving the room, we were in the Zodiac, and ten minutes later we were on shore. Very smooth process.

The areas we could explore were clearly marked on shore, and members of the expedition team were positioned throughout to answer questions, direct us across penguin “highways”, etc. Chinstrap penguins were abundant, and very entertaining. Three Weddell Seals were lounging on the “beach”….not as entertaining. We were on shore for an hour and fifteen minutes; our GPS indicated our roundtrip walk totaled a bit over 2 miles. Skies overcast, some snow, light winds, 33 degrees. We were not cold, except for hands which too often had outer gloves off to take pictures. The entire walk was on packed snow, icy in spots. Walking sticks were helpful. (I would guess that a considerable part of the walk might be on rock or gravel later in the season, after some snow has melted or been worn off by visitors.)

The process of lifejackets, Zodiac, and return to ship was similarly smooth. We were back in our suite two hours and 30 minutes after we had left it.

Bottom line: Day #1 Antarctic experience was wonderful!

GeneBK, I hope you'll return here to post some specifics on your cruise. I'm particularly interested in the scheduling for the Antarctica days. I'm a less adventurous traveler, much to the dismay of my husband, so the Quest seems like it would be a good fit for me. We're booked for 2015, so I'm hopeful Seabourn will be able to work out the kinks.

I intend to do exactly that....hopefully as the Antarctic experience unfolds, but, if not then, certainly upon our return.

I totally understand your curiosity!

I am currently on the Quest and feel I should answer a few questions.

First of all, this is not an expedition ship - never has been, never will be, so if you want the full experience of several ice landings and zodiac trips a day choose a different ship. It is, however, a great hybrid cruise - part luxury part expedition which suits me and most on board. Some had expected more but I'm not sure how they thought the Quest could suddenly become something it clearly is not. The crew have been great and Robin West and his team are very experienced and have handled changes of itinerary very well. The landings have always been weather permitting so I really don't understand why people are so upset. Getting people on and off the zodiacs has been very smooth and well organised but there will only be one landing a day - weather permitting. You are on the ice for about 1 hour, but you can come back sooner if you want.

It is true, we lost about 36 hours due to a medical problem. I can not believe people have complained about having to back track to get the patient to the nearest airstrip. Be warned. This is not like cruising the Med. There are no hospitals nearby so if there is a medical incident it will mean time will be lost and in fact, could mean the trip is over!

This has been everything I wanted and more. For people who are packing for this trip, be warned, there a lot more resort casual evenings than usual. I am wishing I had not brought so many dressy tops. Can you believe that is another thing people are complaining about? Guess you just can't please some people, but for me, this is great!

Thank you!! Thank you!! Thank you!!

I know how busy days can be in the midst of a cruise, so special thanks for giving us some first-hand account. We will be boarding in Valparaiso the day you disembark, so every extra detail of anticipation gets focused attention.

We share your attitude in general....from the understanding acceptance of things like medical emergencies to increased frequency of resort casual.:)

If you happen to be posting again, a couple questions:

***In general, has the weather been warmer than you expected? (We spend A LOT of time on deck when the ship is moving).

***In the past we have often walked U-shaped "laps" on Deck 5....is that still possible or do the storage lockers etc make it impractical?

***Was there any possibility to stay on shore longer than an hour during a landing?

No worry if time does not allow for a response; the information already posted is greatly appreciated!!

Cruzer9---Nice summary of what sounds like a great experience.

A year ago, we were also booked on a Silver Explorer Antarctica cruise. When we became aware of the Quest option we decided to change.

The Silver Explorer sounded excellent, and based on Cruise Critic reading we were quite sure it would have more serious information sessions, and a more extensive range of landing experiences. Maybe more serious, and more extensive, then we wanted?

We love a good cruise on a well-appointed ship with a range of dining, entertainment, and activity options....but we also like to explore.

We didn't want a "drive-by" cruise that would take pictures and never land (perfect option for some)....nor were we sure we wanted to go an "school field trip" vacation (perfect option for others).

We leave for Santiago in four days and will be on the Quest in a week. We'll see if it's the perfect option, for us . Who knows, we may get hooked and return on the Explorer in the future.....or we may be content with our Quest memories.

I should add a summary of the posts themselves---

The one person's negative comments felt that safety decisions were overly cautious and were made on the assumption that all passengers are "elderly and infirmed". No way for us to judge from words on a page.

In a few weeks, I'll make my own judgement.

Most or all of the negative comments came from one passenger. Based on what I’ve read in various places, and what I remember of the comments, my best understanding of what’s transpired (caution----this is not a first hand report….it’s wellintentioned, but it may not be fully accurate)---

Day #1 apparently went well, although they had to go to an alternate landing site (wind and waves at scheduled site)….the sight was "limited" and the change may have shortened the day a bit.

Day #2 they were unable to land because of too much ice along the shoreline. (Perhaps an early season problem, since November is early “summer” there.) They did ride along the shore in the zodiacs, and the pictures looked good to me.

Day #3 they unexpectedly had to abandon the program and go north due to a medical emergency. One passenger had to fly out to Chile, so they had to return to the South Shetlands to reach the airstrip there. Unfortunate, to be sure (especially for that poor passenger!!!) Once that was accomplished, they returned south and did some “sightseeing cruising” in the evening.

Based on the Seabourn blog, Day #4 was the highlight of the trip….wonderful on-land experience, glorious weather, entertaining wildlife. (In fairness---the passenger who posted negatively, put some smiling pictures on his Facebook timeline and he did say in his Seabourn post that this day was everything he hoped the whole trip would be.)

Day #5, the final day, some passengers were able to land early, but then they had to return to the ship and further landings were cancelled, again safety concerns due to wind and waves.

The medical emergency is always a slight possibility. The problems of condition and safety are always possible; I’m wondering if perhaps a bit more common this early in the season there. I’m hoping that is somewhat the case, since we leave Sunday for Santiago and then will embark on the next Quest cruise a week from tomorrow!