CJW's Men's Suit Buying Advice...

Hey all!

So there seem to be questions coming up a lot of the time, on buying the best men's suits...

I'm just going to start this thread, as then I can put all of my experience/advice in one place, and then link to this thread for any future questions...

Okay?

Here we go...

#1 When you go to buy a suit, DO NOT let the salesperson jump on you or try to sell you something first. If they do, let them know, "we're just looking, and we'll let you know when we need assistance".

God Bless them, they are working on commission mostly, so will generally just try to sell you anything in their store, whether it's good for you or not.

Politely get them off your back.

#2 Know your sizes...

You really should know your (at least) chest size and waist size (and ideally shoulder size). It doesn't matter if you are thick, hefty, athletic, your bone/skeletal structure makes a difference.

The major thing to know here is your "drop".

This means, what is your chest/shoulder to waist ratio...

Every designer and suit cuts for a certain "drop"....

It does not matter if you are (again) thick, slim, hefty, athletic, muscular, whatever, it totally depends on your "drop".

Any guy who has a 7 inch or higher "drop", meaning that their chest is 7 inches more than their waist, needs to look for designers or lines of those designers that "cut" suits for that (which in general, but not always is called and "athletic cut suit").

#3 Go in there, knowing who you are, what is your personality and profession, and what you are wearing the suit for...

Are you conservative all the way?

More rural?

Wall Street Banker?

Artistic?

Farmer?

Insurance salesman in Indiana?

All of these make a difference on what you should choose.

#4 Choose and keep in mind, what is your personailty...

Vitally important...

#5 Start with a department store...

Like Macy's, Bloomingdales, etc...

Whatever is in your particular area...

If you happen to be in and around a city like Manhattan, Los Angeles, Las Vegas, etc. where there are a lot of the specific designer stores, go there first....

But, look and try on ALL of the different designer's suits in order to find what is the best "cut" for your particular body frame and style...

Do not let a salesman pressure you into buying something that does not fit in size or style for you.

#6 Sizing/Fit

Here's a few rules...

A#1 most important thing, the shoulders MUST fit!!!!

If the shoulders of the suit jacket do not fit without "straining" (can't move your arms comfortably) or they are so wide that you have "space" over the end of your shoulder, then it's the wrong suit and wrong jacket.

Then, chest, no straining, the jacket should button comfortably, but no more than a "fist's worth" of space on the front.

Sleeves, not worried about, they can easily be adjusted.

Again, you've got to find a suit/cut/designer that works for your chest/shoulder to waist ratio.

Shoulders/Chest first, then do the pants/waist match your hips?

If it is not within one inch, then that is NOT the correct suit/designer/label for you...

#7 Buttons, buttons, whose got the buttons?

There are 3 different button choices for a man's suit...

Two button suit...

This is the most general, safe option.

If you don't know what to get, try this first...

Three button suit...

This is something that actually has become a dominant and standard for the past ten years.

If you are young (20s to 30s), or in shape/athletic/slim (at any age), this is the way to go...

Never button the bottom button...

Always button the middle button.

Button the top button, or not, depending on what you are wearing underneath, and your own personal style, and what is comfortable for you....

One button suit...

If you are really sleek, slim, or fashion forward, this could work for you.

Try it on, see if it works...

#8 Vents

Center vent (in the back, obviously) is the safe-est, can't go wrong.

Side vents can work, if you are European, slim, worldly, or just fahionable and "Rico Suave" in general.

#9 Lapels

Either peaked or notched, I don't think it's a big deal...

Whatever works for you, and looks good on your suit...

#10 Wear your shirt (or closest facsimile) and shoes (or closest facsimile) when you go to buy suits.

It's going to make a difference on the fit and tailoring on what is going to work for you.

#11 Tailoring...

Again (repeating a bit, but it can't be stressed enough)...

Shoulders MUST fit first...

If the shoulders don't fit, then it's the wrong size, and wrong suit...

Pants should be close to fit...

Again, if the pants on THAT suit are one inch to take in, or one inch to take out, (and the shoulders of the jacket are fitting), then that is a good choice/option/designer for you.

If the pants don't fit, you must acquit!

If you don't have a suit, where the shoulders fit first, and the pants are one inch either way of fitting, then it's the wrong suit and wrong designer...

Try more until you find what is cut for you!

#12 Coloring/Seasons...

Just my own 2 cents...

I'm a firm believer in the entire Seasonal coloring program.

I'll add some more on this afterwards, but makes a HUGE difference on getting the correct suit for the correct coloring.

Nuff said for now.

Curt Jerome Wild;)

Wow .. that is huge help .. thanks :)

Sleeves, not worried about, they can easily be adjusted.

I always think that DH's sleeves look too short. How long should they be, how do you measure / fit?

CJW- What a wealth of information.Thank-you. But I have a question. Somebody posted a link-a while back- by a designer, which states what your first suit should be, your second suit, so on and so forth. He mentions accessories-never put an iron on a tie. Hold it an inch above. But I believe he said don't wear a button down shirt with a suit. Why is that. Is a button down to casual? Are there rules for shirts? Would you wear them with sportscoats?

Thanks,

Pat.

Great advise.

When we bought hubby's suit (at a department store) we had an excellent salesman. He does not need a suit for work only for special occasions. We weren't sure of size so he measured and showed us the suits in his size for us to look at. Once we found something hubby tried on and even though the jacket fit perfect the pants were too small and unfortunately they couldn't be let out. So he showed us the suits that are sold as seperates. This was a lifesaver. Found an almost identical suit and was able to buy with having no alterations.

If hubby is not going to be wearing a suit a lot buying a suit as seperates can save a lot of fustration(not all men are great at wanting to try on a lot of items) . Plus doing it this way a lot of the pants are sold in waist and length so it can save money if the store does charge for alterations.

[i'll add some more on this afterwards, but makes a HUGE difference on getting the correct suit for the correct coloring.[/color]

Nuff said for now.

Curt Jerome Wild;)

Thank you Curt. About seasons, it will be very helpful to get all the info here on this same thread. Thanks again!!!

Curt,

Thanks a heap!!

A lot of this I knew... in pieces... but you make a ton of great points all together.

I think I will print this to refererence.

DH does NOT have to wear a suit to work, but is a suit man... does that even make sense?:o

Also, agree.. post the seasons thing.

I know mine, but what about his? Figure the same way I presume?

Well, anyhow, thanks for taking the time!!

Sooo many questions!!!:eek: :D

Wow, Curt you are really quite the help.

My DH looks great in suits and always gets my heart thumping when he wears one...every man should own a well fitted suit!

I did not know about the 'drop' though, that is really good to know. So many times you walk into the department store and those salesmen just sort of throw things at you...so it is good to have this information beforehand.

The seasons thing would be great if you have the time;) ....I am a bit confused about that still!!

Curt,

WONDERFUL advice and I agree 100%. Thanks for writing it so well.

I'll add to your comments if you don't mind.

At the back of the neck, the suit collar and the shirt collar must be flush, IOW, the inside of the suit collar and the outside of the shirt collar should be kissing. The suit collar should NEVER stand away from the shirt! This is always a sign of a poorly fitted suit and too often rented tuxedo's look this way and always cheapen the whole look. A decent tailor can correct this fitting faux pas easily.

Shop in a good store, like Sak's, Neiman's, Nordstroms and ask one of the seasoned salespeople who is the best tailor in the store. Then ask the tailor who has the best fit for your (or SO's) body. Even though we have a relationship w/ a terrific salesman at Sak's, I'll often go to the dept by myself (when a great sale is on) and find a few suits I like and then bring them to our favorite tailor and ask his advice. He know's DH's body and can tell me if that particular cut and drop is the right one for my husband. (then we put them aside and I bring DH in to see them) As Curt says, the drop and front button placement is extremely important.

Sleeve buttons:

Cheap suit sleeves are simply "tubes" at the wrist and then they sew buttons on then and make no attempt to make it look like they even might be fuctional.

Moderate suits will have a little extra fold of fabric and the buttons sewn on top of that to mildly create the illusion of the buttons actually buttoning something, though there are no button holes.

A fine suit actually has finished button holes at the end of the sleeve.

Lapels should never be pressed down or have a crease. They should be rolled over with no crease line.

Whatever your price point, don't buy a blend*. Buy 100% wool. Of course, depending on your budget you'll get varying qualities of wool, but even the least expensive suits can be found in 100% wool. A 100% wool suit will look better, last longer, wrinkle less and be cooler in hot weather than a polyester or rayon blend.

*exceptions - I'm leaving out of the discussion very high end silk/wool blends, summer cotton seersucker or canvas, or the very funky, trendy off-beat designer stuff in synthetic fabrics.

Pant length - should "break" in the front over your shoe and then cover the back of your shoe right where the leather and heel meet each other.

Make sure your tailor doesn't get lazy and only mark one pant leg and hem both the same length - many people often have a slight difference in leg length. Even an eighth of an inch will show up as an uneven hem.

Also, the wearer will ask if he prefers to "dress left" or "dress right" and he'll tailor the pants accordingly, so don't wear your jockey brief's if your normally wear boxers under your suits.

When you pick up your suit, arrange to do it when the tailor is in - not on his day off. Try it on again and have him go over everything and correct anything that's not right immediately.

I always ask the tailor to save any extra fabric he cuts off from the pant leg and stick it in a pocket for me. That way, I can take it with me if I'm shopping for shirts and/or ties on another shopping trip.

BTW, most men, including my DH, always tips the tailor after taking measurements and before doing the alterations.

Curt,

I love that you mention the drop. Long waisted men with very short legs are really hard to find a nice suit for. We gave up with my husband. He does not do formal nights. He does have a funeral suit that looks alright. Very dark with pin stripes. No tails.

For non formal nights he wears a nice sport/suit coat with a contrasting pant color. No pant cuffs, lets make him look even shorter. His inseam on pants is 28 inches.

Rich is not an off the rack kind of guy. You have to accomodate the long torso, long arms, and broad shoulders. Harder to dress than a woman. The best look on him is a dark turtle neck, a nice what we call dark houndstooth jacket with light pants.

Jane, could you explain what you mean by 'dress left'-'dress right'? How does it effect the pants?

Pat.

Jane, could you explain what you mean by 'dress left'-'dress right'? How does it effect the pants?

:eek: :o :D

I knew that we would have to explain this as soon as Jane110 mentioned it...

Ahem...

If a man is wearing boxers (no support) and not briefs (support)...

Then he will "hang" usually to one side or the other.:o

So, the tailor will "adjust" the tailoring in order to allow for the ummm, extra "packaging" on the right or left...

Am I politely making sense here?

CJW;)

lol - I two was waiting for that question to be asked!

Thanks to both of you for the information, I'm going to copy it and keep it for future use. Jan

I knew that we would have to explain this as soon as Jane110 mentioned it...

Ahem...

If a man is wearing boxers (no support) and not briefs (support)...

Then he will "hang" usually to one side or the other.:o

So, the tailor will "adjust" the tailoring in order to allow for the ummm, extra "packaging" on the right or left...

Am I politely making sense here?

CJW;)

Oh. Makes perfect sense. ;)

CJW Thank-you for the information. It was very nicely put.

Pat.

Curt,

WONDERFUL advice and I agree 100%. Thanks for writing it so well.

I'll add to your comments if you don't mind.

Don't mind at all...

And I agree 100% with your additions to this "list"...

We make a good team Jane110!

Hey all, I have to run for the weekend, but I'll add the seasons and other info next week...

MmmKay?

CJW

I knew that we would have to explain this as soon as Jane110 mentioned it...

Ahem...

If a man is wearing boxers (no support) and not briefs (support)...

Then he will "hang" usually to one side or the other.:o

So, the tailor will "adjust" the tailoring in order to allow for the ummm, extra "packaging" on the right or left...

Am I politely making sense here?

CJW;)

Yes, very good and "polite" explaination. Thanks.

The way the women here talk about having to adjust garments for their "girls" it's only appropriate they understand that good men's tailoring makes adjustments for the "boys". It can make the difference between elegance and too much information! LOL!!

I didn't realize that Las Vegas was a good place to buy suits. Thanks for that tip!

We'd make a wonderful shopping team Curt! :)

Thank you Curt (and Jane) for the informative posts. I'm bookmarking in case I should ever need this information ;) .

Curt,

I love that you mention the drop. Long waisted men with very short legs are really hard to find a nice suit for. We gave up with my husband. He does not do formal nights. He does have a funeral suit that looks alright. Very dark with pin stripes. No tails.

For non formal nights he wears a nice sport/suit coat with a contrasting pant color. No pant cuffs, lets make him look even shorter. His inseam on pants is 28 inches.

Rich is not an off the rack kind of guy. You have to accomodate the long torso, long arms, and broad shoulders. Harder to dress than a woman. The best look on him is a dark turtle neck, a nice what we call dark houndstooth jacket with light pants.

Why don't you have the suit custom made? Even a tux can be custom made as well as dress shirts. Just a thought?:)

MrsMoose2001,

That would be the ideal. But getting Mr Richard to do that would be an event. I am still chuckling just thinking about it. My grandfather who was a small man and wore a suit every day always had his custom made. Even his last years in a wheel chair he had his suits.

Rich has his funeral suit, which thinking back is now old enough to get a drivers license and his separates. I do formal night and he stays in the room.

Ah I understand. My DH has is made, he can choose the fabric, and it's going to be a "pefect fit" so to speak and it's simpler than him having to shop around, not to mention at 6'4-1/2 there aren't many that come in his "sleeve length" especially here. He has all his business shirts custom made as well. He is not fat, not thin, average build, just tall and besides this way he knows he gets a "perfect fit". Same people have been makeing his shirts and suits for as long as I can remember. They remeasure him every time to make sure he has not gained or lost or weight shifted, but aside from that, he is done quickly once he has chosen the fabric, they know his style and the shirts, it's the same all the time, just a matter of selecting color/fabric (always pure cotton).

He has to wear a suit everyday and it's a very conservative company. His dad also had his suits made to measure and his shirts made to measure and he wasn't as tall as his dad was also not a "shopper". Since he is not into "shopping" unless it's for camera equipment, lol, this is perfect for him.

There is a tailor here, he will come to you if you don't want to go to him. He will bring the samples, take the measurements, do all of it at your home or office if you can't or don't want to go to him. Maybe you could find someone like that for your DH.?

I got a good chuckle out of that "suit so old it can get a driver's license". I love it, really I needed that chuckle, thank you. :)))))

MrsMoose2001

Honestly when it comes to formal wear women have an easier time off the rack then men. Just think of buying pants for women I am a 10/12. No other thing thought about. Men you stand in front of racks looking at waist and and length. Rich right now is as 32X28. He likes 34X28. Finding 28 is not easy.

Only in the mens department does a person show up with a tape measure saying we do alterations. Us women we just try on a dress, it fits or it does not.

Custom really is the way to go for some men. They are very diverse in size. Mine does not have a calling for suits. He does maintenance for the school district, and his most favored hobby is drawing his own graph paper and hand building and desiging mission style furniture. Some guys go to bars after work, mine is in the garage.

MrsMoose2001

Honestly when it comes to formal wear women have an easier time off the rack then men. Just think of buying pants for women I am a 10/12. No other thing thought about. Men you stand in front of racks looking at waist and and length. Rich right now is as 32X28. He likes 34X28. Finding 28 is not easy.

Only in the mens department does a person show up with a tape measure saying we do alterations. Us women we just try on a dress, it fits or it does not.

Custom really is the way to go for some men. They are very diverse in size. Mine does not have a calling for suits. He does maintenance for the school district, and his most favored hobby is drawing his own graph paper and hand building and desiging mission style furniture. Some guys go to bars after work, mine is in the garage.

Yes and no, I'm not sure, in some ways I think the guys have it easier. They can go have their suits custom made and it's over and done.

I always have to have my pants hemed unless they are capris. Some jacket sleeves fit some don't and need hemming. I hate formal wear, my idea of a formal attire for a woman is a female tux a la YSL "Le Smokeing". I never wear heals. I've done enough formal (non-cruise) to last me forever. Same with DH we never care if we see a formal event again.

But just in general I think men have it easier. I actually like some of the mens casual wear better than the woman's. Less accessories, and I do love my bling, but I sometimes envy the men and how simple they have it basically. No makeup (I hate makeup as does my DH in general he prefers women without it so I'm lucky).

Mine is into photography. He doesn't go to bars unless I'm with him, lol.

I can understand your DH. Mine prefers his casual clothing, his suits are for work (required), otherwise, he perfers his casual photography clothing with his camera as his accessory, lol.

Not to mention, if I go to a formal affair I can wear the dress once, and that's it. If I wear it again, it'll be the talk of the town that I "repeated" and it will be frowned upon and make my DH look bad also and unscussful. Can never wear the same thing twice. I'm out $1000 - $2000 just for a one shot deal. No thank you. I think men have it easier they can wear the same tux more than once.:)

I always think that DH's sleeves look too short. How long should they be, how do you measure / fit?

Okay ideally...

When your arms are hanging down at your side...

The suit sleeve should end where your wristbone ends...

Then the shirt sleeve should be about 1/2 inch longer...

(Some tailors say 1/4, but I think 1/2 always looks and fits better)...

And a really good tailor should measure each sleeve separately from the thumb...

Also the collar of the shirt should be about 1/2 inch more than the collar of the jacket...

I'll add more as I think of things...

CJW