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Belize review: Lamanai/ new river tour/long


BobbieSu

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Before I start I will share a bit about others’ experiences. We were on the Explorer of the Seas. Another ship, I believe a Carnival was anchored as well. Some friends of ours had done the cave tubing and loved it, though the water was a bit shallow. Other friends went snorkeling with Belize rays. They had to wait about two hours to get enough signed up to go, but they said the snorkeling was wonderful. Our table mates went to the tourist village, shopped a little, hired a cab,,,,$10 a person, and they were gone for 3 hours. The cabbie drove them around town and took them shopping to where the “poor people shop”. Good prices. They were not too impressed with the city though.

 

Belize was my favorite day. I loved it. We took the ship’s tour of Lamanai mayan ruins and the new river boat ride. It was a combination cultural enlightenment, wildlife sanctuary and ancient Mayan history.

 

We anchored at 8:55, at 9am we were loading onto the tender. That took 15 min. The tenders were large and fast. There are apparently other tenders which are not so large and take twice as long. Our tender ride was 15 minutes. The Xunantunich tour got on the same tender, and one other, I believe the cave tubing. We went right through the tourist village and loaded onto buses. There were private tours looking for customers all along the way. There were apparently enough people who signed up for this tour for two buses. We were lucky enough to get on the second one. Those 38 of us on the bus stayed together for the rest of the day. We had four or five children under age 10. I said we were lucky because our guide was Javier and he was great!. We also had an intern, Delighta, and our bus driver Godfrey and our boat driver Orlando. Each of them made a special effort to make sure that we had a good time.

 

Javier told us a little about Belize as we drove. I loved the houses. Some were on stilts, the colors were bright- blue, yellow, orange, pink, green, it was simple and beautiful. Javier was eager to point out that they are not a third world country but a developing country....Not sure the difference, it is for sure Belize is less developed, but I loved that. The teachers were on strike, but we did pass one school where the children were out surrounding the flag pole. They were dressed in pink and magenta. Each school has its own colors. Javier says that education is a high priority and literacy rate is about 78 percent. He himself was very knowledgable and took his job seriously and yet at the same time was having a good time, and kept a smile on his face and ours with his jokes.

 

One hour and 15 minutes later we arrived at the boat landing. The bus ride was comfortable, air conditioned and new. We were stopped by the police because we were going fast. A speeding ticket is $100. Javier talked his way out of it and shared some of our ice cold water with the police. We had about 15 minutes at the boat landing for a bathroom break. I didn’t go in, but it looked modern. There were 3-4 vendors there with wood carved articles, bowls, boats, dolphins, masks. We looked but were told not to buy now. The vendors assured us they would be there when we got back.

 

Our boat had an awning cover, was fast and comfortable. They handed out cold bottles of water. We sat on benches two or three to a bench. I felt a little bit like Katherine Hepburn in the African Queen. This jungle river was wonderful. We hadn’t even left the dock area before they were pointing out herons and egrets. We went slowly as they looked for wildlife to show us. We saw two different types of herons, insect bats, spiny backed iguanas, a darling baby marmot crocodile, niger birds, Jesus Christ birds (they walk on water), beautiful lilies, various raptors/ vultures, a diving bird looking much like the stick on which it was standing, all as we wound down this mangrove-lined river. We passed a Mennonite town where a young boy was out on the dock waving to us.

 

About an hour and 15 wonderful minutes later we arrived at the lagoon and landed at Lamanai. They had lunch ready for us. It was very tasty chicken, saffron rice, rice and beans, coleslaw, a coconut tart and soda pop for drinks. Very enjoyable. We ate under a covering on picnic tables by the side of the river. It was warm, the people happy. There were the cutest little Mennonite children there selling peanuts and cookies for $1. Very darling! Their father was there as well but stayed out of sight till we were gone. I bought some cookies and ate them later on the bus ride back, they were very good though we couldn’t figure out what kind they were.

 

We began our tour of the ruins in the museum there. We then wandered along jungle paths that led to various sites. The ruins were all around us. You could tell where other structures lay buried beneath the dirt and jungle vegatation. Javier explained about some of the vegetation, the water vine and the palms, the give and take tree, the gumbo limbo. We kept up with him in order to hear everything. Others did not, but Delighta was bringing up the rear and made sure noone got left behind. Every once in awhile he would stop and wait for everyone to catch up to share some information.

 

We stopped first at the Mask temple. The mask was beautiful and large. After a brief explanation he allowed us to climb to the top, from the side. This has not been completely restored, so we were basically climbing a hill. From there we could see the lagoon and over the jungle. It wasn’t too tall and many of the children and less agile of us were able to handle it just fine. The steps going down the front were very narrow (3-4 inches) and steep, and would have been difficult to manage. I think this also is where he showed us the Yin-yang symbol carved in the platform. It is interesting to speculate as to where that came from.

 

Next we went to the High Temple. This is the tallest structure there (over 100ft). He didn’t tell us to climb this one, (liability?) but he didn’t tell us not to and allowed those of us who wanted the time to do so. This one we climbed from the front on the steps. They were not as narrow, (about 10 inches), but steep (18inches?). I only stopped twice, once to see how much further, and once at the first platform to rest, my 18 year old son basically ran up. There was a rope to hold onto, but I didn’t need it going up. It was an incredible view from the top. We decided that the priests lived at the top because going up and down those stairs would be just too much to do very often. Coming down was more difficult until my son told me to go sideways. That made it very easy. I held onto the rope for insurance, but didn’t really need it. The next day my one leg was very sore. I’m sure I missed out on some good information because I wasn’t there to hear it, but climbing a Mayan pryamid has been a dream of mine for a long time. I was in heaven.

 

Next we went through the ball court. This was a small one, but had bleachers still on both sides. It was in the middle under the center stone that they uncovered a vial of mercury. They don’t know why it was placed there. Next we went to the jaguar temple. This one has the carvings of two jaguars on each side. There is a large grassy area in front of the temple, a plaza. On all sides are the remains of residences. Some of us went to look at the one directly across from the temple. It was very large, and surrounded a courtyard of its own. Several rooms had raised stone platforms, were they the beds?

Javier said the society was strictly segregated into “elites”, and two lower classes. The elites received better food and so lived longer and had better health. Even so, they were short. These raised platforms were tall. It made us wonder how they got on top.

 

And then we were done....Oh I forgot the howler monkeys. We saw and heard them and there is nothing quite like listening to what sound like lions roaring when you are deep in a jungle setting. Javier says they roar to establish territory. There were two bands and they were roaring at each other. One side of the path would roar and then in answer the other side would roar. Once it sounded like a dog barking, but mostly it was a deep, loud, long howl.

 

We loaded back on the boats having been there about two hours. I was very satisfied with the tour of the ruins. I would love to have stayed longer, but we saw enough to give us a good feel for it and climbed two ruins. We think the first ship tour only climbed one, and a friend of ours on a private tour only saw two structures, rather than our five.

 

The boat ride back was very! fast. It took us half the time it did going out. Some people saw crocodiles on the edges of the river, but we didn’t stop. At the boat landing we had about 15 minutes for a bathroom break. I bought a beautiful rosewood platter from one vendor who I talked down from $50 to the twenty I had, and then from another a covered zircote bowl for which they were asking $20. Since all I had was a twenty and I thought it should be worth more than the platter I didn’t bother trying to reduce the price, I just had to decide which one to get. You had to have cash but $US was readily accepted.

 

On the bus ride back our intern Delighta proudly showed us her home (“the orange one”) as we drove through the village where she lived. It was about 45 minutes from Belize city. She takes a bus in every day. To drive her car would be too expensive, gas being about $4.50 a gallon. She said she likes to shop across the border in Chetumal, about the same distance north.

 

We arrived back at the Fort Street tourist village with about 1/2 hour to spare before the last tender. While we would have had time to shop there a little I was too worried about catching that tender, and so we just got in line and onboard the second to last tender.

It was really incredible to motor out to the two large ships anchored off the shore and then to cozy up to them to get off. We looked back at Belize City, a few miles of human settlement along a very flat shore. It had been an totally awesome day.

 

Su

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Great review, BobbieSu!

 

Just out of curiosity, how hot/humid was it? Also, did you get any reviews from the folks who went to Xunantunich -- we're still trying to decide for sure which one we want to go to. We're going to have our 21 & 19 year old kids with us, and are trying to make sure it's something they will enjoy.

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Gramsof7; Well, I tell you, the whole thing was absolutely enthralling to me. My senses were on super high alert, but yes, I did later write down some of the specifics so I would remember.

 

Ute Fan; They told us it was about 80F degrees. While we were in the bus, we were comfortable, on the boat we had the breeze, in the jungle it was shady, but if we stood for too long in the sun you could feel that moist heat. On top of the pyramids it was breezy. A very nice weather day for us. I never put on any insect repellant, though my husband did (but it was the middle of the dry season).

 

Sorry, I knew no one who went to Xunantunich. It looked like there were about the same amount of people. I chose Lamanai because it has had the longest occupation, it was still occupied when the spanish came, it was in the jungle, we had the jungle river safari as well. I felt like I got two for one.

 

I looked at Xunantunich because that pyramid was taller, it was a more significant site, it was closer to Tikal, (where I would love to go some day), that ferry boat ride across the river looked very quaint (but I can't believe they still do that), the marimba lunch sounded good. My sister who had seen both said Xunantunich has had more restoration, it is more easily accessible and so has had more visitors, the jungle has been cut back and the site is more open. She said from the top of El Castillo you could see forever. I think the bus ride is a little longer. I get the feeling the whole trip would have been more "comfortable", less "strenuous". (Not that ours wasn't comfortable, nor was it strenuous --unless you climbed the pyramid) Just my thoughts.

 

I don't know how your kids are, but our 18 y/o son though he ignored us, was right there listening to Javier, I think he enjoyed himself. I truly don't think you can go wrong, just getting out into the country and get a taste of the mayans...they said Belize had more ruins per square mile than any other country...I'm still just so glad I went and know I want to spend more time there someday.

 

Su

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Su,

 

Thanks so much for the great review. I felt like I was along for the trip! Hope I get the chance to go some day, although I know it won't be this trip. We are taking our 13 & 9 DD's and they definitely want to go cave tubing.

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We just got back the 19th Feb and did this tour for the second time. We actually had the same guide that we had in 2000. They have cleared out more ruins and have built new areas for lunch and now have a very nice display area for the artifacts and historical info. Also better restrooms. I enjoyed this tour just as much as the first time. Also the first time you could not climb the second pyramid for it was still under renivation. Gary o. I really enjoyed this time much more, it was not as hot as August. Emile was our guide. Very knowlegable.

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Before I start I will share a bit about others’ experiences. We were on the Explorer of the Seas. Another ship, I believe a Carnival was anchored as well. Some friends of ours had done the cave tubing and loved it, though the water was a bit shallow. Other friends went snorkeling with Belize rays. They had to wait about two hours to get enough signed up to go, but they said the snorkeling was wonderful. Our table mates went to the tourist village, shopped a little, hired a cab,,,,$10 a person, and they were gone for 3 hours. The cabbie drove them around town and took them shopping to where the “poor people shop”. Good prices. They were not too impressed with the city though.

 

Belize was my favorite day. I loved it. We took the ship’s tour of Lamanai mayan ruins and the new river boat ride. It was a combination cultural enlightenment, wildlife sanctuary and ancient Mayan history.

 

We anchored at 8:55, at 9am we were loading onto the tender. That took 15 min. The tenders were large and fast. There are apparently other tenders which are not so large and take twice as long. Our tender ride was 15 minutes. The Xunantunich tour got on the same tender, and one other, I believe the cave tubing. We went right through the tourist village and loaded onto buses. There were private tours looking for customers all along the way. There were apparently enough people who signed up for this tour for two buses. We were lucky enough to get on the second one. Those 38 of us on the bus stayed together for the rest of the day. We had four or five children under age 10. I said we were lucky because our guide was Javier and he was great!. We also had an intern, Delighta, and our bus driver Godfrey and our boat driver Orlando. Each of them made a special effort to make sure that we had a good time.

 

Javier told us a little about Belize as we drove. I loved the houses. Some were on stilts, the colors were bright- blue, yellow, orange, pink, green, it was simple and beautiful. Javier was eager to point out that they are not a third world country but a developing country....Not sure the difference, it is for sure Belize is less developed, but I loved that. The teachers were on strike, but we did pass one school where the children were out surrounding the flag pole. They were dressed in pink and magenta. Each school has its own colors. Javier says that education is a high priority and literacy rate is about 78 percent. He himself was very knowledgable and took his job seriously and yet at the same time was having a good time, and kept a smile on his face and ours with his jokes.

 

One hour and 15 minutes later we arrived at the boat landing. The bus ride was comfortable, air conditioned and new. We were stopped by the police because we were going fast. A speeding ticket is $100. Javier talked his way out of it and shared some of our ice cold water with the police. We had about 15 minutes at the boat landing for a bathroom break. I didn’t go in, but it looked modern. There were 3-4 vendors there with wood carved articles, bowls, boats, dolphins, masks. We looked but were told not to buy now. The vendors assured us they would be there when we got back.

 

Our boat had an awning cover, was fast and comfortable. They handed out cold bottles of water. We sat on benches two or three to a bench. I felt a little bit like Katherine Hepburn in the African Queen. This jungle river was wonderful. We hadn’t even left the dock area before they were pointing out herons and egrets. We went slowly as they looked for wildlife to show us. We saw two different types of herons, insect bats, spiny backed iguanas, a darling baby marmot crocodile, niger birds, Jesus Christ birds (they walk on water), beautiful lilies, various raptors/ vultures, a diving bird looking much like the stick on which it was standing, all as we wound down this mangrove-lined river. We passed a Mennonite town where a young boy was out on the dock waving to us.

 

About an hour and 15 wonderful minutes later we arrived at the lagoon and landed at Lamanai. They had lunch ready for us. It was very tasty chicken, saffron rice, rice and beans, coleslaw, a coconut tart and soda pop for drinks. Very enjoyable. We ate under a covering on picnic tables by the side of the river. It was warm, the people happy. There were the cutest little Mennonite children there selling peanuts and cookies for $1. Very darling! Their father was there as well but stayed out of sight till we were gone. I bought some cookies and ate them later on the bus ride back, they were very good though we couldn’t figure out what kind they were.

 

We began our tour of the ruins in the museum there. We then wandered along jungle paths that led to various sites. The ruins were all around us. You could tell where other structures lay buried beneath the dirt and jungle vegatation. Javier explained about some of the vegetation, the water vine and the palms, the give and take tree, the gumbo limbo. We kept up with him in order to hear everything. Others did not, but Delighta was bringing up the rear and made sure noone got left behind. Every once in awhile he would stop and wait for everyone to catch up to share some information.

 

We stopped first at the Mask temple. The mask was beautiful and large. After a brief explanation he allowed us to climb to the top, from the side. This has not been completely restored, so we were basically climbing a hill. From there we could see the lagoon and over the jungle. It wasn’t too tall and many of the children and less agile of us were able to handle it just fine. The steps going down the front were very narrow (3-4 inches) and steep, and would have been difficult to manage. I think this also is where he showed us the Yin-yang symbol carved in the platform. It is interesting to speculate as to where that came from.

 

Next we went to the High Temple. This is the tallest structure there (over 100ft). He didn’t tell us to climb this one, (liability?) but he didn’t tell us not to and allowed those of us who wanted the time to do so. This one we climbed from the front on the steps. They were not as narrow, (about 10 inches), but steep (18inches?). I only stopped twice, once to see how much further, and once at the first platform to rest, my 18 year old son basically ran up. There was a rope to hold onto, but I didn’t need it going up. It was an incredible view from the top. We decided that the priests lived at the top because going up and down those stairs would be just too much to do very often. Coming down was more difficult until my son told me to go sideways. That made it very easy. I held onto the rope for insurance, but didn’t really need it. The next day my one leg was very sore. I’m sure I missed out on some good information because I wasn’t there to hear it, but climbing a Mayan pryamid has been a dream of mine for a long time. I was in heaven.

 

Next we went through the ball court. This was a small one, but had bleachers still on both sides. It was in the middle under the center stone that they uncovered a vial of mercury. They don’t know why it was placed there. Next we went to the jaguar temple. This one has the carvings of two jaguars on each side. There is a large grassy area in front of the temple, a plaza. On all sides are the remains of residences. Some of us went to look at the one directly across from the temple. It was very large, and surrounded a courtyard of its own. Several rooms had raised stone platforms, were they the beds?

Javier said the society was strictly segregated into “elites”, and two lower classes. The elites received better food and so lived longer and had better health. Even so, they were short. These raised platforms were tall. It made us wonder how they got on top.

 

And then we were done....Oh I forgot the howler monkeys. We saw and heard them and there is nothing quite like listening to what sound like lions roaring when you are deep in a jungle setting. Javier says they roar to establish territory. There were two bands and they were roaring at each other. One side of the path would roar and then in answer the other side would roar. Once it sounded like a dog barking, but mostly it was a deep, loud, long howl.

 

We loaded back on the boats having been there about two hours. I was very satisfied with the tour of the ruins. I would love to have stayed longer, but we saw enough to give us a good feel for it and climbed two ruins. We think the first ship tour only climbed one, and a friend of ours on a private tour only saw two structures, rather than our five.

 

The boat ride back was very! fast. It took us half the time it did going out. Some people saw crocodiles on the edges of the river, but we didn’t stop. At the boat landing we had about 15 minutes for a bathroom break. I bought a beautiful rosewood platter from one vendor who I talked down from $50 to the twenty I had, and then from another a covered zircote bowl for which they were asking $20. Since all I had was a twenty and I thought it should be worth more than the platter I didn’t bother trying to reduce the price, I just had to decide which one to get. You had to have cash but $US was readily accepted.

 

On the bus ride back our intern Delighta proudly showed us her home (“the orange one”) as we drove through the village where she lived. It was about 45 minutes from Belize city. She takes a bus in every day. To drive her car would be too expensive, gas being about $4.50 a gallon. She said she likes to shop across the border in Chetumal, about the same distance north.

 

We arrived back at the Fort Street tourist village with about 1/2 hour to spare before the last tender. While we would have had time to shop there a little I was too worried about catching that tender, and so we just got in line and onboard the second to last tender.

It was really incredible to motor out to the two large ships anchored off the shore and then to cozy up to them to get off. We looked back at Belize City, a few miles of human settlement along a very flat shore. It had been an totally awesome day.

 

Su

 

Do they still own Lamanai Outpost Lodge??:confused:

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They who?

 

We went with a ship excursion, did not see Lamanai Outpost Lodge. There is still lodging available in the area, but obviously we did not need it.

 

Su

 

Mark and Monique Howells used to (or maybe still) own the Lamanai Outpost Lodge (probably where you had lunch). It's right next to the ruins and right on the New River. Just curious as we have stayed there 4 times from the time it originally opened. BTW isn't Belikin beer great??;)

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The outpost lodge sounds like somewhere I'd like to go back to, I'll keep it in mind. However we had lunch in an open bowery picnic area, I have no idea who provided it, but I enjoyed it thoroughly. Right by it there was an very small open museum. Other than those two facilities we saw no other buildings. Couldn't tell you about the beer, they gave us soda.

 

Hey Gofeo, Were you bothered by mosquitos in August? I'm glad to hear about the differences you saw, thanks for sharing them. It's good to know they are working to make it a nicer place.

 

Su

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