MSC Musica - Greek Odyssey - a review

[henleycruiser]

This is a bit long, so if you want to know the bootom line, go straight down to the, er, bottom.

 

This is a review of our 7/8 day cruise aboard MSC Musica, 15-22 August 2010 as seen through the eyes of two couples (Brits/Canadians) totalling almost 200 years in age. We had not booked any excursions in advance, preferring the cheaper and less sheep-like DIY approach wherever possible.

 

Day #1: VENICE – we were met by MSC at the airport and after a bit of hanging about to make up a coach-full, we were on our way to the ship. The cruise terminal was slightly chaotic, but the multilingual MSC folks soon had us separated from our bags and heading upstairs to check in for cabin 12197. We were given our keys, went aboard, quickly found our cabin, and equally quickly realised the keys didn’t work. A few trips to/from reception and it eventually transpired that we had unwittingly been “upgraded” to 9165 - two grades higher (allegedly), but two decks down, amidships with restricted views for’ard and aft, and above a lifeboat. We convinced them to downgrade us back to 12197, which was fine, but by then we’d wasted three hours which could have been spent in Venice. Our bags somehow made it to the right cabin.

 

Departure from Venice is, of course, spectacular, and it takes about an hour before you’re in open water, and ready to explore the ship, eat, drink and be merry. Despite much effort in advance, we were never certain we’d be dining with our chums, or in which sitting, so while we faffed around with upgrades and downgrades, the other two visited the maitre-d’ and made sure we were at a table for four, second sitting - perfect.

 

The Musica is a huge and pleasant vessel, clean and modern. It was going to be home to 3013 passengers, including hundreds of children, for the next seven days, so we usually avoided the buffets. We liked the multi-national thing, but just felt there were too many of everybody (probably 70% Italian, the rest a mixture).

 

The food everywhere onboard was always of a good standard, and if nothing on the menu appealed, pasta bolognese was always available (and very good).

 

The cabin was comfortable, a decent size with a nice balcony. We were aware of being above the engines, and the throbbing was actually quite comforting.

 

The gym was pretty limited for a ship of that size, which MSC try to address by limiting users to 20 mins at a time. A better fix would be to install more machines. This was made worse by three of the machines being out of order within two days of leaving Venice. It must be the only gym in the world without a water fountain.

 

NOTE ABOUT DRINKS: We were dubious of the value of any of the drinks packages – we were probably going to be off the ship much of the time so wouldn’t have time to take advantage of an all-inclusive deal. We did however succumb to the 12 cocktails for 67eu (plus 15%), effectively 12 for the price of 10. Due to the heat, I rediscovered my love of beer at 4.70 (plus 15%) for 400ml, so this package would have been worthwhile too, but this was unavailable after day 2.

 

Day #2: BARI – the approach to Bari isn’t particularly inspiring, but actually its old town was pleasant and well worth a stroll. No need to pay for anything organised, as there is a free bus from the ship to the entrance to the old town. In the not-so-old town, there were lots of shoe and handbag shops, all advertising sales, but being August, all were closed (phew!), leaving plenty of time (and money) for a delicious ice cream, a couple of cold beers, and a bottle or two of limoncello to enjoy as we sailed away. Bari has a full-blown cruise terminal, and several passengers left and joined the ship here. A muster drill was held after departure, providing another business opportunity for the onboard photographer.

 

Day #3: KATAKOLON – this was our most concerning call, as previous research on Google Earth revealed not much in the immediate vicinity, so we’d probably have to go with the flow and see Olympia. Greek railways, especially in the Peloponese, are in a state of flux, so we were relieved to see there were trains running to Olympia, perfectly timed for the ship. This was far more Greek and, at 2.50eu return, much cheaper than the organised tours, and we were treated to highly amusing Greek lessons by a local passenger as we ambled through the countryside. Is Olympia itself worth it? A close call, especially at 40degC, but the cold beer in a shady café afterwards was most welcome. The return train was slightly late, so no time for the touristy shops in Katakolon, although some of the waterside cafes were very inviting. Just enough time to buy some water before the “all aboard” at 1645.

 

Day #4: THYRA/SANTORINI – they don’t tell you in advance (“information is power”), but the ship tenders twice here. Tenders drop you off in one place and pick you up from another, and there’s probably not much you can do to avoid an organised tour (apart from stay onboard, of course). We opted for a trip to Oia, a wine-tasting, and Thyra town - a good day out, but 54eu each was extortionate to say the least. This included a trip on the cablecar back down to the port, for which the queue was somewhat longer than it would have taken to walk, but you know what women are like. There were two ships in that day, and the town was totally overwhelmed - I dread to think what it would be like with five ships in (not uncommon apparently).

 

Day #4: MYKONOS – this call, also by tender, was scheduled to be 2200-0200, but everything was pulled forward two hours, which suited us fine. Just time for a tasty meze starter and a hefty slab of moussaka on the harbour front, and a walk around this very pretty, but touristy town dotted with lovely restaurants and bars, and the inevitable jewellery shops.

 

Day #5: PIRAEUS/ATHENS – it would be rude to come here and not go to the Akropolis, so that’s what we did. Again, we avoided anything organised, and ended up walking to the metro station (It’s miles! We would bus it back). The metro station doesn’t look very station-like from outside (look out for the footbridge). We had read some notes on here telling you how to battle your way to Akropolis station, but looking at the Google Earth, Monasterakis was just as close and needs no change of trains. Just as well as the metro is under construction and trains currently terminate at Monasterakis anyway (I have since read that the previous stop is even more convenient). From the metro, the Akropolis is clearly visible about a mile above your head. In 40deg heat, it’s quite a climb, but if you only want to clamber over one Greek ruin, it has to be this one. Along with your 12euro entrance ticket, you can also buy an iced drink for 5 euros. Back down the hill again, for a cold beer, and a wander around the fleamarket down the alleyways on the other side of the metro station. We didn’t really know where we were compared to city centre, shops, etc., so headed slowly back. After you buy and validate your metro ticket, it’s good for 90 mins, so when you get to Piraeus, the bus back to the ship (number 843 amongst others) is also covered (you need to go over the footbridge to reach the bus stops). Tonight was a formal “gala night”, so it must be time for….

 

NOTE ABOUT DRESS CODES: there is little obvious enforcement, and shorts, jeans and trainers, almost anything is acceptable, although most folks move up a notch or two for the formal gala night, but not many tuxes were apparent, and probably only half the men wore ties.

 

Day #6: KERKYRA/CORFU – I had low expectations of this call, and was extremely pleasantly surprised. Don’t pay MSC 7eu for the transfer into town, there’s a perfectly adequate local bus (number 16 I think) running every few minutes from the port terminal for 1 euro. (The port authority provides a free bus from the ship to the terminal before you go anywhere). The old town is delightful, and while it has far too many jewellery shops for my liking, was well worth a leisurely stroll, followed of course by a hefty slab of moussaka washed down by a jug or two of not very cold house wine. We were the only ship in port that day, so the town was not too overwhelmed by cruisers.

 

Day #7: DUBROVNIK – none of us had been to Croatia before, so this was going to be the wild card. MSC kindly laid on a transfer to the old town for 10eu each, but we changed a few notes and paid 8 kuna (1.10 euro) each way to take the orange and white “Libertas” bus for the15-minute run to the old town. The bus terminates at the information centre by the entrance to the old town. This is a pleasant place, somewhat over-touristy, but attractive with plenty of shops (which seemed expensive) and restaurants. An ice cream at the old harbour then back to the bus stop. The buses back to Porto Gruz (1A/1B, 3 or 8) are overwhelmed by cruisers, and the journey back was quite animated. We got a number 8, and there was a near riot when we got within 400m of the ship and suddenly turned off the main road, leaving a bit of a walk.

 

PREPARING FOR FINAL DISEMBARKATION: You can access your account at any time using the interactive TV, and this avoids any surprises when your bill is slid under your door this evening. If you have pre-registered your credit card and agree with your bill, just sign it and drop it in the box at reception – easy. Expect to see 7 euros per person per night added for service (this is NOT negotiable following a change of policy), and 1 euro donation to Unicef. If you don’t agree with your bill, or if you want to pay by some other method, you’ll need to go to the accounts desk, which has limited hours (and probably long queues).

 

You also get your colour coded luggage labels tonight, and a pep-talk about disembarkation procedures from your language-specific host. Ours was a frustrated comedian, and imparted only limited hard information interspersed by embarrassing attempts to be funny - with a bit of preparation, he could have delivered twice the info in half the time, and let us all out again to enjoy what was left of our last day onboard. Mini-bars closed at 1800, and luggage had to be outside your cabin by 0200, remembering to keep some clothes and a toothbrush for the morning.

 

Day #8: VENICE - Arrival in Venice is, of course, spectacular, and all too quickly we berthed at the terminal. Passengers were disembarked by baggage label colour, and it seemed very quick and efficient - although our companions were called ashore well in advance of their onward transport being available, so had to stand around for ages in the heat. We got off late in the process and had a few hours to kill, just enough to take the free (yes, free!) MSC shuttle bus to Piazzale Roma, and walk the tourist trail to Rialto bridge and Piazza San Marco, tick the box, and head back, with a couple of stops for shopping and a light lunch. Information on getting the MSC coach out to the airport was difficult to get, contradictory, and never in writing, but somehow everything fell into place, and before we knew it we were back in a rainy Gatwick airport.

 

THE VERDICT: Having only cruised once before, we can only compare this cruise with our NYC/Caribbean experience on Cunard’s QM2. Different it certainly was – we liked the ship, and the European style and food, but not the crowds. On the QM2 we had four days “at sea”, which we thoroughly enjoyed – there were none on the MSC cruise, and that was probably just as well. We enjoyed all the ports of call, and while things were mostly well organised, better advance information in writing would have been welcome (but information is power, remember?). We would recommend MSC, but don’t expect it to be Cunard-like. It’s not better or worse, just different. Oh, and avoid the school summer holidays.

[AmoMondo]

Thanks Henleycruiser for taking the time to write an account of your experience on the Musica. I'll be spending almost 3 weeks on her in November, so found your account both informative and interesting to read. Hopefully it won't be so crowded on my cruise.

[snapshot33]

NOTE ABOUT DRINKS: We were dubious of the value of any of the drinks packages – we were probably going to be off the ship much of the time so wouldn’t have time to take advantage of an all-inclusive deal. We did however succumb to the 12 cocktails for 67eu (plus 15%), effectively 12 for the price of 10. Due to the heat, I rediscovered my love of beer at 4.70 (plus 15%) for 400ml, so this package would have been worthwhile too, but this was unavailable after day 2.

 

Day #3: KATAKOLON – this was our most concerning call, as previous research on Google Earth revealed not much in the immediate vicinity, so we’d probably have to go with the flow and see Olympia. Greek railways, especially in the Peloponese, are in a state of flux, so we were relieved to see there were trains running to Olympia, perfectly timed for the ship. This was far more Greek and, at 2.50eu return, much cheaper than the organised tours, and we were treated to highly amusing Greek lessons by a local passenger as we ambled through the countryside. Is Olympia itself worth it? A close call, especially at 40degC, but the cold beer in a shady café afterwards was most welcome. The return train was slightly late, so no time for the touristy shops in Katakolon, although some of the waterside cafes were very inviting. Just enough time to buy some water before the “all aboard” at 1645.

 

 

Day #5: PIRAEUS/ATHENS – it would be rude to come here and not go to the Akropolis, so that’s what we did. Again, we avoided anything organised, and ended up walking to the metro station (It’s miles! We would bus it back). The metro station doesn’t look very station-like from outside (look out for the footbridge). We had read some notes on here telling you how to battle your way to Akropolis station, but looking at the Google Earth, Monasterakis was just as close and needs no change of trains. Just as well as the metro is under construction and trains currently terminate at Monasterakis anyway (I have since read that the previous stop is even more convenient). From the metro, the Akropolis is clearly visible about a mile above your head. In 40deg heat, it’s quite a climb, but if you only want to clamber over one Greek ruin, it has to be this one. Along with your 12euro entrance ticket, you can also buy an iced drink for 5 euros. Back down the hill again, for a cold beer, and a wander around the fleamarket down the alleyways on the other side of the metro station. We didn’t really know where we were compared to city centre, shops, etc., so headed slowly back. After you buy and validate your metro ticket, it’s good for 90 mins, so when you get to Piraeus, the bus back to the ship (number 843 amongst others) is also covered (you need to go over the footbridge to reach the bus stops). Tonight was a formal “gala night”, so it must be time for….

 

THE VERDICT: Having only cruised once before, we can only compare this cruise with our NYC/Caribbean experience on Cunard’s QM2. Different it certainly was – we liked the ship, and the European style and food, but not the crowds. On the QM2 we had four days “at sea”, which we thoroughly enjoyed – there were none on the MSC cruise, and that was probably just as well. We enjoyed all the ports of call, and while things were mostly well organised, better advance information in writing would have been welcome (but information is power, remember?). We would recommend MSC, but don’t expect it to be Cunard-like. It’s not better or worse, just different. Oh, and avoid the school summer holidays.

 

 

A couple questions for you:

You are able to buy drink packages on board but up to a certain time?

 

At Olympia, what time did you arrive? We don't get there until 10:00, so I don't know if we will make any of the available trains by the time we disembark. Or meet any of the trains by the time we leave at 1700. So we were thinking of renting a car instead and visiting Olympia and the Winery.

 

In Athens, you recommend taking the bus from the port to the metro? Or a taxi?

 

Thank you for your help!

[Gelbel]

I am pretty sure the only drinks packages you can buy on board are the book vouchers - something like pay for 10 but get 12 drinks - for large/small beers/water/cocktails/soft drinks. You can get these from any bar at any time.

 

Re Athens - you can get a bus into central Athens to see the sites. We did this rather than long walk to the Metro and we did not fancy gettign a cab as the drivers really wanted to have you book them for a tour. Also, coming back we did not know if we could get a cab back from the Metro.

 

The bus stop is about a 10 minute stroll from the ship. Walk out of the port, cross the very busy road and go straight up the hill in front of you. At the main road at the top, cross over the road and find the bus stop - it'll be by a newspaper style kiosk on the street; buy your tickets from the kiosk. Validate your ticket on the bus - there's a machine by the doors. It's only a few Euros.

 

If I remember, the journey is about 45 mins and goes through all the side streets!

 

The bus will take you to the Parliament Square area and it's easy to walk around to reach the other sites and everything is sign-posted.

 

Re Katakolon for Olympia there is a car hire place just outside the port terminal and this would, probably be, your only option if you don't take an organised tour.

[mbeginner]

A couple questions for you:

You are able to buy drink packages on board but up to a certain time?

 

At Olympia, what time did you arrive? We don't get there until 10:00, so I don't know if we will make any of the available trains by the time we disembark. Or meet any of the trains by the time we leave at 1700. So we were thinking of renting a car instead and visiting Olympia and the Winery.

 

In Athens, you recommend taking the bus from the port to the metro? Or a taxi?

 

Thank you for your help!

 

 

Trains from Katakolon to Olympia (updated for 2010)

 

Train Number Departs Katakolon Arrives Olympia

Ε382 – Express 08:36 09:18

1386 11:11 12:01

3388 12.53 13.47

3390 14.47 15.38

 

Trains from Olympia to Katakolon

 

Train Number Departs Olympia Arrives Katakolon

Ε387 – Express 12.05 12.48

1389 13.51 14:42

3391 15.42 16.34

 

 

taxi (outside the port) to the Acropolis costs about 20 euros

[Satincruz]

Trains from Katakolon to Olympia (updated for 2010)

 

Train Number Departs Katakolon Arrives Olympia

Ε382 – Express 08:36 09:18

1386 11:11 12:01

3388 12.53 13.47

3390 14.47 15.38

 

Trains from Olympia to Katakolon

 

Train Number Departs Olympia Arrives Katakolon

Ε387 – Express 12.05 12.48

1389 13.51 14:42

3391 15.42 16.34

 

 

taxi (outside the port) to the Acropolis costs about 20 euros

 

Thank you mbeginner, for the very helpful post :)

 

Specific details about busses are some of the hardest things to figure out in advance (usually very difficult to find anywhere on the internet).

[mbeginner]

Thank you mbeginner, for the very helpful post :)

 

Specific details about busses are some of the hardest things to figure out in advance (usually very difficult to find anywhere on the internet).

 

 

 

http://istopoli.com/cruise/athens.php

 

http://istopoli.com/cruise/acropolis/cruisers.html

 

http://www.istopoli.com/cruise/athens-map-thision.html

[pctravler]

I am arriving 1 day early. Where did they take you to board? Did you have to tender to the ship?

[Satincruz]

http://istopoli.com/cruise/athens.php

 

http://istopoli.com/cruise/acropolis/cruisers.html

 

http://www.istopoli.com/cruise/athens-map-thision.html

Again--very helpful!

 

These should help many people to make their sight-seeing plans ;)

[amslyb.c]

dear henleycruiser. Thank you so much for your great review of the MSC Musica. We just returned from the Eastern Med. cruise and thouroughly enjoyed it. I had read some really bad things about it so was a bit nervous at first. I took a copy of your detailed review with me and we go so much good info from it. I would suggest going after the school holidays if you don't want lots of kids around. We had a few but nothing to complain about. We were impressed with the info on local buses and used them instead of the MSC transfers. We ordered the red house wine with dinner for 7 euro half a carafe and it was good. we bought water on shore as needed. Shows were very entertaining. The trains were on strike the day we got to Katacolon so we shared a taxi with another couple to go to Olympia - still cheaper than MSC charged. All in all we really enjoyed it and would sail with them again. Thanks again for all you info and help.

[AmoMondo]

dear henleycruiser. Thank you so much for your great review of the MSC Musica. We just returned from the Eastern Med. cruise and thouroughly enjoyed it. I had read some really bad things about it so was a bit nervous at first. I took a copy of your detailed review with me and we go so much good info from it. I would suggest going after the school holidays if you don't want lots of kids around. We had a few but nothing to complain about. We were impressed with the info on local buses and used them instead of the MSC transfers. We ordered the red house wine with dinner for 7 euro half a carafe and it was good. we bought water on shore as needed. Shows were very entertaining. The trains were on strike the day we got to Katacolon so we shared a taxi with another couple to go to Olympia - still cheaper than MSC charged. All in all we really enjoyed it and would sail with them again. Thanks again for all you info and help.

 

Glad to hear you had a good time.

 

I'll be sailing on the Musica in less than 3 weeks (yippee!) and am looking forward to it as it wll be my first experience of this class of ship and also Brazil.

 

On the other ships that I've been on, they usually have a piano/martini bar. Does the Musica have one too and if so what is it called?

 

I alos liek to use the spa/thermal area onboard and there seems to be huge differences from ship to ship. Did you use the thermal area at all on the Musica? If so what was it like - did it have a turkish bath and conventional steam room?

 

Thanks

[amslyb.c]

to henleycruiser, thank you, thank you for your great review of the MSC Musical eastern med cruise. I took it along with me and referred to your comments often, especially about using the local transport instead of the offered, rather pricey transfers. We enjoyed our time on the Musica and the ports of call, but your helpful hints were really valuable.

[level42]

Henley cruiser....please could you give me information as to your trip into Venice on disembarkation day? Did MSC look after your luggage whilst you went into Venice via the shuttle?.......how did you then arrange your coach transfer to the airport? Our flight home is at 7,30pm.........please could you also confirm the sitting times for meals?

 

Much appreciated!

[amslyb.c]

Thank you so much for your very informative review of this cruise from Venice down to Greece and back. We used so much of your helpful info on the cruise and it sure made things easier for us. We enjoyed it very much, the Musica is a beautiful ship without a doubt. We found the staff good, service good, food plentiful and always fresh. No complaints at all.

Thanks again and happy crusin'.....

[CruiseGalDiane]

Great write up Henley! Do you happen to recall what time they started letting passengers off the ship in Venice when you returned? I am taking a group in September of over 70 passengers and the majority of us are taking a 12:40pm departure flight out of Venice even though MSC recommends flights much later. This is the latest flight that works for our group so we have hired a private transfer company to assist everyone with the passengers with their luggage and get them to the airport. This way we won't have to wait for other MSC passengers to fill up the bus which can take up to an hour sometimes. I am praying that we can get off the ship quickly in Venice.

[PC168]

Hi Diane,

 

I am not Henley.

 

We were off the ship by 8:30, wasn't late and we were taking it easy. I think by 9:30, everyone must be off the ship. Flight at 12:40 is perfect. You will have lots of time.

[cakeordeath]

thank you for this great review...we are taking this trip June 2011 and can't wait! It will be our third with MSC. :-)

[eyore]

Thanks so much, Henley, for all of the helpful info. I am 1st time cruiser to some of the same ports in March and will take your advice with me.

Thanks a million!

[KirkNC]

Thanks for posting your review!

 

Kirk