HDR anyone?

[WLHyatt]

I have just started to play with my new Nikon V1. I also have started reading the book "Understanding Exposure" 3rd edition, which has helped me immensely as far as understanding what all the numbers mean. I have also started to switch over to manual mode, which is not near as intimidating after getting a basic understanding of what the camera is telling me.

 

I have gained some interest in HDR photography, and I know my V1 won't be able to bracket photos automatically. I am hopeful that between tripod mounting with still objects and an understanding of how to change the aperture quickly I can get a few, but I have also tried doing it by using Nikon's software to change the exposure values in post after shooting a few RAW images.

 

I went behind the office today just to get an image that has shadows and sky to try my hand at just using the RAW method and I am rather impressed with the result.

 

Here's what I started with:

 

And here's the HDR version (notice the free version of the software?):

 

Any tips or advice for doing these things? I know it isn't specifically cruise related, but there are many opportunities on the cruise to use this that could yield some remarkable images, so I figured I would post here.

[pierces]

I haven't dealt very much with assembled HDR mostly due to the in-camera HDR. Below is a 5-stop, 3 shot in-camera HDR image taken with the hand-held camera pressed up against the Hotel window.

 

Straight out of the camera JPEG:

 

I like what HDR can do but prefer the more realistic examples over the extreme comic-book looking ones. Though, sometimes those work too!

 

High power exposure compensation algorithms like Sony's Dynamic Range Optimizer and Nikon's Active D-Lighting do a pretty amazing job of pulling detail out of the shadows and keeping the highlights.

 

I was a bit surprised that the V1 doesn't have auto-bracketing, but maybe they passed on that feature because the Active D-lighting should be able to give very HDR-like results with the dynamic adjustment of exposure in different areas of the sensor.

 

Dave

Edited November 26, 2013 by pierces

[Turtles06]

Dave, that's a gorgeous image! (What camera were you using? I am totally ignorant about HDR...)

[zackiedawg]

I don't know that it's a 'tip' per se, but just something to think about...that is: what do YOU want your photo to look like? When using HDR, whether in-camera, stacked from multiple shots, or a single RAW processed multiple ways and stacked, what you want from the end result is key. Some like to use HDR to achieve essentially transparent results, ie: they don't look like a post processed shot, they just capture a normal and natural dynamic range that was beyond the camera's ability to capture in a single shot. Some like to use HDR to photograph extreme contrast scenes and achieve detail in both highlights and shadows - they don't mind if the shot flattens out a bit or starts to look a little unnatural, because it's the detail of the entire scene they are going for. Still others like to go for a look that meets their imagination or fantasy - they go for the extreme tone-mapped look, that can look almost like artwork or comic books - very extreme, very unnatural, but fun or cool or dynamic.

 

Your shot in your first example strikes me as option 2 - it goes for max detail in both shadows and highlights, even if it flattens out a bit or looks a tad unnatural. Dave's shot looks more like option 1, trying for a more natural look, but capturing a wider dynamic range than one shot alone could have.

 

I personally use in-camera HDR a lot, but probably 90% of my shots go for that natural or transparent look...where I just want to capture a scene and not lose highlights or crush shadows - I want a natural contrast look, but just capturing a bit more dynamic range than is possible in one frame. On some occasions, I decide to 'play' a little, and I'll push a shot to the slightly unnatural look to see what I get, and on even more rare occasion I'll do a full-bore, comic-book fantasy HDR tone-mapped look, though for me a little of that goes a very long way, and I easily tire of that look if I do it more than once or twice.

 

Here's an example of what I consider my most common HDR style - the mild, natural look that just helps me capture a wider dynamic range - this is a 3 stop HDR blend in-camera of 3 frames:

 

Here's another 3-frame in camera, but this one is pushing it - it's maxed out to 6 stops EV range, and it's been tone mapped in post processing for that not-realistic look - the ship and foreground would have been pure silhouette with that sunset backdrop, and here I just was having fun:

 

HDR output is completely up to personal taste, and there's not really a 'wrong' way to do it. Some people may prefer one style or look to another, so it's just more down to the look you prefer. For my taste, I prefer some natural contrast and generally like a more natural look, but that doesn't mean I stick to it 100% of the time!

[pierces]

Dave, that's a gorgeous image! (What camera were you using? I am totally ignorant about HDR...)

 

That was my old NEX-5. The NEX-7, A77 and the NEX-3N all have this feature and I have found I use it more and more to even out landscapes. These little supercomputers with lenses that we carry around nowadays sure make it easy!:D

 

Dave

[YOW]

Good advice from some excellent photogs here.

 

I am hopeful that between tripod mounting with still objects and an understanding of how to change the aperture quickly I can get a few...

 

Aperture or shutter speed? By changing aperture, you'd also be changing the depth of field in the individual images. Changing shutter speed will keep DOF constant while producing various exposures needed for HDR.

[WLHyatt]

These are the things I am trying to learn. Thanks for the information!

[awboater]

While the V1 does not have exposure bracketing, it does have exposure compensation.

 

However, if you are using manual, exposure compensation is pretty much a moot point.

 

But if you are using shutter priority, aperture priority, or program modes, exposure compensation does work.

 

The dial for doing this is on the multi-selector dial on the back of the V1.

[WLHyatt]

I am pretty happy with shooting in manual, and I haven't even bothered to try exposure compensation yet. Granted all my shooting has been just random stuff while getting used to the camera. I haven't had a need to put it in any of the priority modes yet, but I know I will when it comes time to take pictures on a cruise.

[awboater]

BTW, I have a V1 and use it as a backup for my D7100.

 

And I have the FT-1 adapter so I can use my DSLR lenses on the V1 (which is one of the primary reasons I bought it).

 

With the FT1 adapter and my 70-300mm lens, with the crop factor - it is equivalent to a whopping 810mm.

 

 

Here is the V1 with the stock 10mm lens:

 

 

And with the 70-300mm fully zoomed in (bow of the boat in the center of the first photo):

 

Edited November 27, 2013 by awboater

[WLHyatt]

I have the FT1 on my christmas "wishlist" as well as a 18-55 lens, which I guess comes out somewhere near 150mm equivalent.

Between that and the 30-100mm 1 series lens, I figure I will be set for a while. I am quite impressed with the camera, and even when I read reviews that say "this camera sucks" all they seem to be able to comment on is the looks and the small sensor, while saying that the image quality is simply amazing despite the small sensor. I do not understand reviews that are so focused on looks and factors that don't matter as much. It does most of the things that I need until I decide I want a DSLR, and has most of the features that I see in even the mid-range DSLR cameras so I am happy with it. Not to mention I got it for a pretty good price (NEW!).

[awboater]

I have found that most people that say the V1 sucks don't actually own one...

 

I bought mine about a year ago when Nikon had rebates for $299. At the original $899 price it was way overpriced, but I'd challenge anyone to find a better camera for $299.

 

Yea, the controls, dials, and interface was not as good as it could be - but for $299, I can live with that minor annoyance.

 

And the shutter lag is very short; under 0.1sec, which is in the same range as advanced and professional DSLRs. Which means this camera is better for sports and action than even entry level DSLRs.

 

Funny thing though, the Sony RX100 has the same sized sensor - and there has not been the criticism as with the V1, and at $799 (Rx-100M2), it is not exactly cheap either. I think it might be that the V1 was the first 1" camera.

Edited November 27, 2013 by awboater

[pierces]

Funny thing though, the Sony RX100 has the same sized sensor - and there has not been the criticism as with the V1, and at $799 (Rx-100M2), it is not exactly cheap either. I think it might be that the V1 was the first 1" camera.

 

I think most of the criticism was the price and the size. When I was out shopping for my NEX-7, I took a look at the then new V1 and was surprised that it was quite a bit larger than my NEX 5 and about the same size as the NEX-7, both of which have APS-C sensors. The RX-100 does have the same sized sensor but is half the volume of the smaller J1. It escaped the criticism because it was pitted against pocketable compacts where the 1" sensor and its low-light image quality puts it at the top of that pack. The V1 is actually a pretty cool camera but I think Nikon missed the mark because of the size and the $700+ intro price.

 

Sony's 1" sensor is finding its way into some nice cameras. The RX-10 Superzoom and Nikon's AW-1 are pretty groundbreaking in their respective genres and as you stated, the V1 is a great $299 camera, especially if you have other Nikon lenses you can adapt to it.

 

Dave

[dodger501]

A tripod is recommended but you can get away with hand-held for the most part, if you have software that aligns and de-ghosts.

Set your camera to aperture priority mode because you don't want the depth of field to change. You are going to be taking 3-5 shots.

Set auto ISO to off, you don't want exposure varying all over the place.

On my Nikon, setting bracketing is easy - just the push of a button and the turn of a wheel. I do 5 exposures 2/3 of the time. 3, others.

I also have an infrared remote that goes on the hot shoe where I can trigger the shutter remotely. Otherwise set the camera to a 5-10 second delay to minimize vibration.

Get your focus. Now turn AF off so that the camera doesn't try to refocus each time.

Take your 3-5 exposures. You should end up with EV-2, -1, normal, +1, +2

Now you have the full range of what your eyes saw. A single picture and you get exposure only on one part of the scene. So if you are shooting out a window, it will be blown-out white.

Here is the tricky part. You have to have software to merge these exposures together. I have 3, in order of preference:

 

1. Photomatix Pro 5

2. Nik Efex HDR Efex Pro

3. Photoshop CC

 

Tweak the settings to your liking - strength, exposure, detail, contrast, temperature, and so on. The first 2 products above will align the images.

There's lots more that go into my shots, a lot of times I add the 5 exposures as layers underneath and mask in features from each that I like. I have spent hours on some.

 

Here is an example of my earliest work, how NOT to do it:

 

 

This is more recent:

 

 

[WLHyatt]

Can you post your shot of the miracle serenity deck at normal exposure so I can get a comparison?

 

I have messed with doing it with masks and such in Gimp (I use that because I am a linux-nut-turned-mac-user) and was not quite satisfied with the results, the images always seem to come out grainy and soft.

[zackiedawg]

Here are some HDR and non-HDR versions of essentially the same scene - they were taken at different times but can somewhat show the difference in shadow vs highlight captures...

 

Non HDR:

 

HDR - 3 frames, 4 stops:

 

The main differences are the ability to reign in the bright highlight spots in these night shots, as well as bring up the shadow detail to see more of the stone and brickwork...but still keep the shot as natural looking as possible.

 

Here's an extreme contrast example. The first non-HDR shot had to choose between exposing for the bright light coming from the windows which leaves the entire room in silhouette - or expose the room and have the windows just be completely blown out blobs of white. This is the exposure on the windows to expose for the highlights:

 

And here's a 6-stop, 3-frame HDR of the same scene, after the HDR stacking has brought up the shadow areas of the room: