Daily Itinerary, Amadante Budapest-amsterdam

[Trash Queen]

Tired of crowded airplanes, we’d opted for business class for the 19 hour trip so we were able to wait in airport VIP lounges, which have comfortable chairs, WiFi, snacks and drinks to while away time.

The plane was so new that the interior was still “out-gassing”. Seat Guru said Air France’s business seats weren’t comfortable, but their idea of comfort is different from ours. We thought our pods were wonderful! And the food was delicious! We had champagne over Vegas, foie gras over Utah, the main course over South Dakota, coffee and port over Manitoba, and French wines with every course. Not a bad way to enjoy dinner! Then we pushed buttons till our seats laid flat and settled down for a long nap. About 7 am they served breakfast; shortly after that we crossed English Channel with a good view of the D-Day beaches before flying over Paris and landing at Charles DeGaulle.

The walk between Terminals was more eventful than we expected. The passageway was like a tunnel in the air. As hundreds of us hustled along, the walk slowed, and finally the crowd stopped altogether. We waited in the heat, thankful that we had stopped where there were some cutouts in the concrete for air. Suddenly, a single shot rang out. Nobody panicked. I was the sole soul who dropped to my knees. Mike thought some “left luggage” had been found and blown up, but we never found out what happened. A few minutes later we were allowed into another tunnel before going through security again and on to the Air France lounge to wait for our flight to Budapest.

A taxi whizzed us to the Castle District Hilton. I’d found a great internet special; they still put us in a king room with a great view of the Danube and Parliament. We were impressed! Lewis and Terri arrived a bit later.

Thursday morning our exploration of the Castle District began in the Palace, which was re-built after World War II and now houses Hungarian art. After lunch we crept through the Buda Castle Labyrinth, caves under Castle Hill. Not much to see, but we cooled off during the afternoon heat. That night we ate at Matyas Pince restaurant (Matthew’s Cellar); folk dancers and musicians entertained.

Friday morning we boarded a train to Roman ruins in Obuda. Most people know that Budapest was formed from the cities of Buda and Pest, but many don’t know about the third city, Obuda, which the Romans settled about 700 AD. The ruins are called Aquinicum, and are quite good. Lewis found a charming restaurant for lunch. Then we walked to the Zsinagoga (Synogogue), with its cemetery and museum. Terri said it’s more ornate than any synagogue she’d seen. The cemetery is in a courtyard and is a mass grave of the remains of Jews from the city who were slain by the ****s. The garden has an aluminum weeping willow tree with names of Jews who were killed by the ****s engraved on leaves.

The following day Mike and I roamed through a huge park, Vajdahunyad Castle and then took refuge in the transportation museum during a rain storm. What a wonderful museum! It covered trains, planes, ships and automobiles, all in one place. We loved it, and the food in the café wasn’t bad, either. Cheapest we found in Budapest, which is a pretty expensive place to visit. That afternoon we went to St. Steven’s Bazillca, and later explored Vaci Utica, main shopping area. For dinner we met Lewis and Terri, plus Ron and Gloria, who arrived sans bags.

Shortly after noon on Sunday we boarded the Amadante. The Captain, himself, lugged our bags up the gangplank to be stowed until the rooms were ready at 3. We then walked to the Chain Bridge Festival; the entire bridge was closed and draped with flowers; food & craft booths stretched end to end. Mike and I shared a spicy sausage, fried potatoes, and local beer, which was cooling in the heat of the day. Grearease doesn’t count if you eat it on a bridge, does it? We then shopped our way across the bridge before settling into our cabins for the 14 day cruise to Amsterdam.

Monday we toured the opera and then strolled the length of Margrit Island (a large park in the Danube) with Ron and Gloria. That night local folk dancers and musicians entertained onboard.

After lunch on Tuesday we arrived in Bratislava, Slovakia. When Mike and I were there in 2000, we decided the “Velvet Divorce” was better for the Czech Republic than Slovakia, and that Bratislava wasn’t yet ready for tourists. What a change 8 years made! The city is all decked out for company and they embrace visitors with open arms. Buildings have been restored and painted in pastel colors, old statues restored, new statues erected, and trees all trimmed. We enjoyed our afternoon walking tour and time on our own. After dinner, Slovakian violinists entertained us in the lounge.

Every night Petar played the piano in the lounge. Gloria and Ron teach dance so they were stars on the dance floor. One night we were talking some and dancing some when Terri spied a bug on Gloria’s blouse. Gloria brushed it and thought she’d gotten rid of the critter, but it actually scooted under her blouse. A while later Lewis said that the bug had resurfaced. I saw it on her midriff and started hitting her, but it clung like glue. Gloria went crazy; she stood up, put her arms straight out, and, just as Petar started playing “Good Golly, Miss Molly”, started shaking all over. It finally fell to the floor; I beat it with my shoe and Lewis stamped out its final lights, but we couldn’t stop laughing. Every night we had something new to laugh at, and when things slowed, we’d ask Petar to play “Good Golly, Miss Molly” just to get Gloria all shook up.

The next morning we were docked in Vienna, Austria, by the time we awoke. We previously were there, so Mike and I hopped a tram to Modeling, then boarded a bus for Laxenberg to see the Castle. The grounds cover more than 400 acres; the three castles of various ages were summer retreats for Emperor Franz Josef and other Hapsburgs. After lunch, we wandered the streets of Laxenburg town till time to return to the boat. What a great day!

About 9 am Thursday we docked at Durnstein, Austria, the pastel blue and white chapel visible from our cabin. It’s a delicious little place! The old castle sits atop a hill, with the medieval town at the base and the chapel in the forefront. This was the first place we rued the crowds from four riverboats. After the walking tour we re-traced our steps and were able to snap pics without hoards of people filling the streets. Oh, how we wished we’d had more time in Durnstein, but the boat left at 11 am for Melk.

At 2:30 we tied up at Melk. A bus took us to the Abby for a walking tour. This was our introduction to TMI (Too Much Information) from a guide. Melk Abby is perched atop a huge rock. The windows were closed and it was really hot so I made a game of finding air conditioning vents to cool off. After the tour we wound our way down to the medieval town to marvel at the old buildings, but had to be back onboard by 6. On the path to the river we saw metal strips on a building, high water marks and years for flood levels during the past three centuries. Darn! Another place where we’d loved to have had more time.

We passed through many locks on Friday, tying up in Passau, Germany, at 4 pm. We ditched the tour to amble in the rain with Ron and Gloria through this neat city. Lots of murals from medieval times on the buildings. What we thought was a church turned out to be a building full of ancient graves, both subterranean and surface level. Then it was back to the boat for departure at 6:30.

On Saturday we docked at Regensberg after lunch. We six followed a blue wooden lollipop for the walking tour of this city that is intact--it wasn’t bombed much during World War II. After ABC (Another Bloody Cathedral) we spied a sidewalk café across the platz, the perfect place to sample local brew. Shortly after settling at a table, truck horns blared and a big bus delivered guests to Claudia and Markus’ wedding. We knew it was their wedding because it was written on the bus. When Claudia was assisted from an Albatross Express semi cab, our interest was sparked. A procession of semis followed, each bearing the names of members of the wedding party whom the truck delivered. Even the flower girl arrived by truck. We wondered if the marriage also united two trucking companies? One guy asked if the couple was “registered” at Goodyear. After dinner a quartet of men who had once been part of St. Peter’s Dom choir entertained us in the lounge with chants and other vocal music.

That night we moved from the Danube to the Main (pronounced Mine) river. We heard an interesting story about the Danube, which is not blue. The story is that when the French invaded Austria, Hapsburg soldiers drove the French into the river. The French wore blue uniforms that bled, the river became blue, and it’s been called the Blue Danube ever since.

The “Staff Show” was a real ho-hummer until our cabin girl, Gabriella, sang three Hungarian folk songs--with no accompaniment and no microphone. What a voice! She should be singing, instead of making beds and cleaning toilets. The conga line was variant; the guy behind Gloria clamped his hands on her boobs, instead of her hips.

Between Budapest and Amsterdam we passed through 101 locks. When we’d reach a lock, the boat slowed and bumped its way in. At the beginning of the trip, which was on the western slope of Europe, we’d wait for the lock to lower and allow another boat to leave before we could enter while the lock was at its lowest level. Then we would enter the lock, wait for water to be pumped in, and depart while the lock was at its highest level. Saturday morning we crossed the European Continental Divide (1332 ft), and after that we entered locks while they were at the highest level, waited with the gates closed and water was pumped out, and then left the locks at the lowest level.

During the five days from Regensberg to Koblenz we were not allowed up on the Sun Deck; they lowered the rails and chained off the stairs because of all the low bridges. One morning, though, people were allowed on a small mid level below the wheelhouse as we passed from one lock to another. Mike went up and almost bumped his head on a bridge! He snapped a great picture of the captain peering through a hole in the top of the lowered wheelhouse.

After lunch on Sunday we boarded buses in Roth and drove to Nuremberg where we met the boat after a tour. We split into two groups: some saw the courtroom where the trials of **** criminals were held. Others toured the medieval castle. Mike went for World War II history, while I climbed castle hill; together we gained a good idea of Nuremberg’s history, but four hours in this interesting city wasn’t enough. That evening Mike and I were invited to sit at the Captain’s table. I sat next to Captain Jan de Bruijn, who is Dutch and a very interesting fellow for conversation. Later a trio of yodelers entertained us. Gosh, it’s been a week since we boarded in Budapest! (NOTE: CC adds the ****to protect Adolf and friends, I guess.)

Monday morning buses took us to Bamberg, a gem of a medieval town. Our walking tour guide knew just how much information we wanted, and didn’t delve into details that nobody cared about and even fewer would remember. We walked past the farmer’s market in Maxplatz, and through the middle of the Altes Rathaus, Old City Hall, which is built in the center of a river. The story goes that all the land was owned by merchants and farmers, none of whom wanted to give any up for a city hall. So it was built in the center of the river, which didn’t require a land donation. The guide told us they now use the strong water current to generate electricity. A pedestrian bridge forms a tunnel through city hall to cross the river. We climbed up to the castle and cathedral, but the guide knew all about ABC so we didn’t go in. Before noon the buses returned us to the boat for lunch and an afternoon of cruising up the river.

On Tuesday we arrived in Wurzburg. I’d had non-stop coughing fits all night, along with a very sore throat and a right eye that was swollen shut so before breakfast I asked the Purser to get me an appointment with a doctor. My tour of Wurzburg was by taxi from the dock to a clinic in the old city, where a doctor prescribed Cipro twice daily for five days, as well as some other stuff. We dubbed this ailment the Newcastle Bug because the woman who brought it aboard was from Newcastle, Australia; by the time we reached Amsterdam about 75% of the passengers were coughing, sneezing and feeling miserable. Mike did the walking tour and saw the Residenz Palace of the former Prince Bishop. By noon we were all aboard for an afternoon and evening of cruising.

Wednesday we tied up in Wertheim early. I felt pretty good so we gulped down breakfast and struck out early. How delightful! No crowds. No wooden lollipops. Just a few of us who wanted to be away from it all. We climbed up to the old castle. We descended stairs to the old city. We walked all over before meeting up with the first tour group about 9 am. We’d loved to have roamed around more, but had to be back onboard by 10:15 to be on our way to Miltenberg.

A glassblower came on from Wertheim to demonstrate his skills. Lewis volunteered to help and took home a small bottle of spirits and a Christmas ornament that he helped blow. Just what he needed; a Christmas ornament!

At 2 pm we arrived at Miltenberg. Ron, Gloria, Mike and I again ditched the walking tour. It’s pretty small so we could hardly get lost. Another wonderful river village--one long Kodak moment, and we had just enough time to stride up and down the main street and be back by 4:45 to leave for Mainz.

Every afternoon or evening we all met in the lounge so the Cruise Director could tell us about the next day’s activities. This day I was running late so Mike went ahead to grab seats; I followed after freshening up for dinner. Not wanting to interrupt the talk by walking in late, I leaned against a door frame. All of a sudden I felt somebody’s hand grab my butt and give it a good squeeze. I was totally shocked! I kind of hollered and turned around. An Aussie said, “You aren’t my wife,” whereupon the woman ahead of me turned around and said, “You didn’t!” All I can say is, the guy had some mighty big hands, and if it ever happens again, I’ll do more than holler.

On Thursday we tied up at Mainz early. I was better, but Mike’s eye was unbelievably red and he coughed nonstop so the Purser found a doctor and Mike toured Mainz in a taxi, while the rest of us joined the walking tour so we could get into the Gutenberg Museum. It was quick; we had to be back on board by 1 to depart on the Rhine River. That afternoon we passed so many castles the batteries in our cameras ran down. Mike slept, but the rest of us found spots at the bow and snapped away. This section of the river is called the Rhine Gorge; the adjacent drive is called the Romantic Road. The castles had been homes of robber barons who laid chains across the river to stop traffic, then collected tolls from passersby, who then had the right to go as far as the next robber baron’s chain. After dinner we arrived in Koblenz.

Koblenz is another gem of a town; Mike was well enough to walk around at a slow pace, ahead of the walking tours. We stood outside a chapel, listening to a choir rehearse. Then we sat on the platz, watched all the walking tours pass and listened to the cathedral bells. Nice evening. The next morning I dashed out before breakfast to snap some pics, and at 10:45 we were off to Bonn.

So Friday was another split day: early in Koblenz, lunch onboard, with arrival in Bonn at 2. Buses took us to Cologne, where we met the boat. The bus tour was not a highlight, nor was the ABC in Cologne. It’s the largest cathedral in Europe, but dark and dank. Ron, Gloria, Mike and I ducked out and wandered back to the boat in the rain. Boy, did it rain! It’s a good thing Amadeus places umbrellas in the closet. Glor said the red flag with the white cross on our boat meant we were a hospital ship. After dinner a group entertained with classical music as we sailed for the Netherlands.

Saturday we glided along the Rhine in the rain, arriving in Amsterdam after lunch. We docked behind Centraal Station, but all the construction in that area makes it difficult to walk to town. They bused some of us to a canal boat tour of the city; our group opted for the Van Gogh Museum. Amsterdam has more bikes than people, and we saw thousands of bicycles parked by the docks and station; commuter parking, I guess. We over-nighted onboard, and the next morning took a taxi to the Renaissance Hotel, a short distance away. We all wanted to see different things, planning to meet for dinner at Haesje Claes, a charming restaurant that serves Dutch food and is popular with locals and tourists, alike.

Mike and I bumped into Ron and Gloria, and we all took off for the Dutch Resistance Museum. What a wonderful place! It tells the story of Dutch resistance to **** occupation in World War II by presenting individual stories of people who did some pretty interesting and amazing things, each in his or her own way fighting the controlling ways of the ****s. I highly recommend it. Before leaving the boat Terri asked the Purser to make the restaurant reservation and what luck that was! When we arrived, the “full for the evening” sign was up, but our table was ready. Our “last supper” was as much fun as other meals with this group. I can’t remember when we laughed so much. After dinner we did a quick tour of the Red Light District (prostitution is legal in the Netherlands; “that way we can control it and, more important, tax it” a guide told us.) On Monday morning we took a cab to the airport and discovered that, in spite of all those bikes, rush hour in Amsterdam is every bit as bad as it is in LA.

 

Charlotte

[sanny]

thanks Charlotte for your very informative post - it's very much appreciated by those of us who are yet to experience river cruising on the Rhine/Main/Danube.:)

[tarredon]

Charlotte, sounds like you and Mike had some very memorable experiences -- thanks for sharing them with us so vividly! I can't wait for my first cruise, which is coming up in May 2009 on the Danube (Amacello). I know that I will also likely be frustrated by not having enough time to really enjoy some places, but I hope to at least make a list of places for an eventual return trip by train (I love traveling by train in Europe also).

 

I think one of our biggest challenges will be to try to guess which organized tours to skip in order to stroll through the towns on our own, and which ones will be worth sticking with the crowd (following the lollipop!)

 

By the way, you mentioned not being able to use the sun deck from Regensburg to Koblenz -- how much did you use it up to Regensburg? My cruise departs Nuremberg (heading toward Budapest) in early May, so the weather will be chilly, but I am hoping to spend significant time up on top taking in the sights. Where did you find the best location for sightseeing while on the boat -- the lounge? sun deck? dining room?

 

Thanks again for your informative post!

 

Tina

[emel]

Charlotte, Thank you for posting your daily itinery. We'll be taking a similar route but on the Scenic Tours Sapphire. We'll only be visiting 14 cities and towns according to the brochure, so it looks like we might have a little more time to explore them. Just hope the're the interesting ones you mentioned. Your details will certainly aid us in deciding how to spend out time in some of the locations. This kind of information and experience that you and a couple of others on this forum have provided is why I keep coming back here. Thank you again, Mary Lou

[jdblakeslee]

Many thanks, Charlotte, for posting your trip report. I'll use it as a guide to plan which ports to grab bikes for meeting the boat at the next stop.

 

You really have no idea how much you've helped those of us who are planning our first river cruise.

 

Jennifer