Review: Alaska Ferry Columbia

This was a seven day round trip "cruise" aboard the Alaska ferry M/V Columbia from Bellingham, WA to Skagway, AK taken in mid-June, 2008. The Columbia is the largest of the Alaska Marine Highway ferries and offers the most amenities, and for those reasons it is generally assigned to the "mainline" route from Bellingham north. Facilities aboard other Alaska ferries may vary from what is described here. See photo links below.

THE BOAT: The Columbia is about 420 feet long (about half the length of a large cruise ship) and can carry up to 500 passengers plus about 130 cars. Top cruising speed is about 17 knots. There are about 100 cabins (booked separately) in 2 and 4 bunk configurations that can accommodate up to 300 passengers. Passengers without cabins are permitted to sleep in the solarium or pitch a tent on the aft decks.

ITINERARY: The ferry makes about 5 stops between Bellingham and Skagway, including the small towns of Wrangell and Petersburg not visited by major cruise lines. Passengers can step off the boat at any port, but since stops are rarely for more than an hour, the opportunities for onshore activities are limited. Some stops are in the middle of the night. Also note that the ferry terminals in Juneau, Haines and Sitka are several miles out of town thereby further limiting onshore exploration. The terminal in Ketchikan is in town, but a few miles away from tourist activities.

On the other hand, the ferry is in constant motion, including DAYLIGHT hours, thereby enhancing the sightseeing opportunities from the boat itself. This (plus the smoking policy) was the major reason why I choose the ferries over traditional cruise lines.

EMBARKATION/DEBARKATION: Because this is "ferry" service, passengers can embark or debark at any port. Therefore, the number and mix of passengers was constantly changing. On this trip (mid June) the boat was relatively full heading north, but much less crowded on the southbound leg. I'd guess the reverse would be true during the late summer.

CABIN: I found my 2-bunk cabin to be perfectly comfortable. Virtually all of the cabins on the Columbia are outside and include private facilities with shower. There is no daily cabin service, but fresh towels are available at the purser's desk.

ENTERTAINMENT: The big entertainment here is the incredible Alaska scenery! A naturalist from the Forest Service gave brief programs throughout the day and maintained a map counter in the forward observation lounge where you could ask questions.

Observed during the trip were at least one bear, several humpback whales, at least one pod of orcas, and a large school of dolphins (I guess) swimming near the surface. Plus numerous fishing boats, barges and cruise ships passed along the way.

If you must have something else to do, there was a TV lounge where recent movies were played. Also, WIFI was available but still somewhat experimental. There was a small gift shop and video arcade for kids.

There was a cocktail lounge where they kept the drapes closed and the music on. That wasn't what I came to Alaska to experience, so I never went in.

DINING: I believe the Columbia is the only Alaska ferry to offer both a sit-down dining room and a cafeteria/snack bar. Most of the other ferries only offer the latter, although the M/V Tustumena (see photo links below) in southwest Alaska has a small dining room with limited menu.

The dining room on the Columbia offered a complete menu including salmon, halibut, cod, NY steak, chicken breast, and a couple of dinner salads. Plus there was usually a nightly special. Prices typically ranged from $18 to $20. Beer and wine were available. They also served traditional bacon-n-eggs style breakfasts for about $10.

On one night when the boat was especially full they suspended regular menu service in favor of a buffet including carved roast beef and baked chicken, plus the usual side and salad accompaniments. This was "OK" but the dining room was really over-crowded that night.

I thought the food was of good quality and reasonably priced under the circumstances. However, the level of service, whether due to inexperienced waitstaff or screw-ups in the kitchen, was sadly lacking (slow service, items delivered out of sequence, etc.). Thus, I felt the overall dining experience fell short of the potential offered by the outstanding views and setting. (See comments below related to tipping.)

The cafeteria/snack bar offered beverages, cold sandwiches and other deli items 24/7. Hamburgers, hotdogs and pizza were available during lunch and dinner hours. Plus, at dinner, they offered one or two cafeteria-style entrees, such as stew or stroganoff. Most items were priced under $10. A burger with fries was $8 bucks as I recall.

TIPPING: Alaska state law prohibits tipping in government facilities, so tipping was "officially" banned. This was stated on the menu and their credit card processing did NOT allow for the addition of tips. However, cash tips were graciously accepted and it appeared that most passengers left same.

The problem with this tipping policy is that I'd guess it discourages EXPERIENCED restaurant personnel from applying for positions aboard the ferries, and this perhaps accounts for the service issues noted above.

DRESS CODE: None stated. Frequently observed fabrics included denim, fleece and goretex. Plus the ubiquitous ball cap. I noticed a couple of older gentlemen wearing dressy slacks, sweaters and polished shoes, and they REALLY looked out of place.

SMOKING POLICY: Smoking was prohibited in cabins and ALL interior areas. The only designated smoking areas were on the AFT portions of outside decks (and away from the tent areas). This is the policy that ALL cruise lines should adopt, in my opinion, and was a major reason why I chose the ferries over traditional cruise lines.

COST: Passengers, cabins and vehicles are booked separately. Meals are not included. Traveling solo (with no vehicle) I paid about $1,500 round trip for passage and cabin. Plus I spent about $200 on meals. A second person could have stayed in my cabin for just the passenger fare of about $700. So, a couple would have paid about $2,600 including meals for this trip. Subtract about $800 if you are willing to travel WITHOUT a cabin.

BOTTOM LINE: I felt this was an excellent, stress-free way to see the scenery of southeast Alaska (my first trip to this area). However, as noted, the opportunity for shore side activities was limited. Cost is probably comparable to the lower-mid range of major cruise ship offerings.

Thanks for the review!! I've been thinking about suggesting this trip to my DH, as a "budget" trip to Alaska. However, given what you spent, I'm sure he'd prefer another "cruise ship" cruise, espcially with the short time you had in ports. But what a wonderful experience for you! Thank you for taking the time to post this.

Thanks for the review!! I've been thinking about suggesting this trip to my DH, as a "budget" trip to Alaska. However, given what you spent, I'm sure he'd prefer another "cruise ship" cruise, espcially with the short time you had in ports. But what a wonderful experience for you! Thank you for taking the time to post this.

with adequate planning, the ferry allows you to step off for a couple of days at a pot and then resume your trip when the next ferry comes through. you will see alaska, other than the tourist/cruise ship ports.

with adequate planning, the ferry allows you to step off for a couple of days at a pot and then resume your trip when the next ferry comes through. you will see alaska, other than the tourist/cruise ship ports.

It looks like that would be easy enough to do if you either:

1) Fly to Ketchikan or Juneau as a starting point, from which most of the destinations can be reached without having to stay overnight on the boat, or

2) You are willing to travel without a cabin.

Otherwise, trying to book a cabin on the 2-night run from Bellingham to Ketchikan is extremely difficult unless you jump on it when summer reservations are first opened in late January or early February.

I haven't sailed on the Columbia, which may be different because it does have dining room service, but the other ferries don't have assigned waiters, but rather, a crew which rotates around doing what needs to be done at a particular time. They work 12 hours on, 12 hours off--which is why my father found the job impossible, by the time he had wound down from working, it was time to go back on shift--for two straight weeks, then have two weeks off.

These are good paying jobs for AK, but you wouldn't know it from the glazed eyes, shuffling feet, and dingy uniforms. I've found service to be generally good, but the annoying bad ones stand out when you're stuck with them all day.

In talking with a gentleman working the gift shop shift, summer is the time when new recruits are tried out, and by fall, most have quit.

Great review! I've taken various Alaska ferries several times, but have not done an Alaska cruise. My mother, who took a Princess cruise a few years after a ferry trip with me, said she actually preferred the ferry because it sailed closer to land than the cruise ship often did, so she saw more scenery and wildlife from the ferry.

My mother and I over-nighted (and then reboarded a different ferry) in Juneau, Sitka and Petersburg. (In Prince Rupert, we switched to a BC ferry and then drove down Vancouver Island.) The trip was a great way to experience Southeast Alaska.

However, anyone interested in the ferry should not expect the same service as a cruise ship, where the crew is working for tips (and there is no requirement to pay minimum wage) and the average passenger pays considerably more (for excursions, photos, etc.). On one ferry, there was a very disgruntled group of travelers who had obviously expected a different experience than the Alaska Marine Highway offers. It's a great experience if you know what to expect.

I haven't sailed on the Columbia, which may be different because it does have dining room service, but the other ferries don't have assigned waiters, but rather, a crew which rotates around doing what needs to be done at a particular time.

Thanks for the additional background. When I was on the Tustumena last summer, the waitstaff did indeed clean rooms and perform other chores around the boat. But on the Columbia I don't recall seeing any of the food service people working outside of the food areas (of course, they might have been doing something else behind the scenes). Between the dining room, snack bar and crew mess, there was always something going on.

Most of the Columbia employees I talked to (food service, pursers and stewards) mentioned that they were on one week rotations out of either Ketchikan or Juneau. And, indeed, by the end of my 7 day trip it did appear that there had been a 100% turnover. Apparently two week rotations could be requested if you, your counterpart and management agreed. I didn't speak to any of the merchant marine crew, so I'm not sure what their arrangements were.

I should mention that all of the crew I talked to were friendly and helpful. And with respect to the service issues I mentioned in the dining room, it's not that people did try to do their best. Rather, it appeared that their skill levels and the organizational structure just weren't up to the task.

This was a seven day round trip "cruise" aboard the Alaska ferry M/V Columbia from Bellingham, WA to Skagway, AK taken in mid-June, 2008. The Columbia is the largest of the Alaska Marine Highway ferries and offers the most amenities, and for those reasons it is generally assigned to the "mainline" route from Bellingham north. Facilities aboard other Alaska ferries may vary from what is described here. See photo links below.

 

THE BOAT: The Columbia is about 420 feet long (about half the length of a large cruise ship) and can carry up to 500 passengers plus about 130 cars. Top cruising speed is about 17 knots. There are about 100 cabins (booked separately) in 2 and 4 bunk configurations that can accommodate up to 300 passengers. Passengers without cabins are permitted to sleep in the solarium or pitch a tent on the aft decks.

 

ITINERARY: The ferry makes about 5 stops between Bellingham and Skagway, including the small towns of Wrangell and Petersburg not visited by major cruise lines. Passengers can step off the boat at any port, but since stops are rarely for more than an hour, the opportunities for onshore activities are limited. Some stops are in the middle of the night. Also note that the ferry terminals in Juneau, Haines and Sitka are several miles out of town thereby further limiting onshore exploration. The terminal in Ketchikan is in town, but a few miles away from tourist activities.

 

On the other hand, the ferry is in constant motion, including DAYLIGHT hours, thereby enhancing the sightseeing opportunities from the boat itself. This (plus the smoking policy) was the major reason why I choose the ferries over traditional cruise lines.

 

EMBARKATION/DEBARKATION: Because this is "ferry" service, passengers can embark or debark at any port. Therefore, the number and mix of passengers was constantly changing. On this trip (mid June) the boat was relatively full heading north, but much less crowded on the southbound leg. I'd guess the reverse would be true during the late summer.

 

CABIN: I found my 2-bunk cabin to be perfectly comfortable. Virtually all of the cabins on the Columbia are outside and include private facilities with shower. There is no daily cabin service, but fresh towels are available at the purser's desk.

 

ENTERTAINMENT: The big entertainment here is the incredible Alaska scenery! A naturalist from the Forest Service gave brief programs throughout the day and maintained a map counter in the forward observation lounge where you could ask questions.

 

Observed during the trip were at least one bear, several humpback whales, at least one pod of orcas, and a large school of dolphins (I guess) swimming near the surface. Plus numerous fishing boats, barges and cruise ships passed along the way.

 

If you must have something else to do, there was a TV lounge where recent movies were played. Also, WIFI was available but still somewhat experimental. There was a small gift shop and video arcade for kids.

 

There was a cocktail lounge where they kept the drapes closed and the music on. That wasn't what I came to Alaska to experience, so I never went in.

 

DINING: I believe the Columbia is the only Alaska ferry to offer both a sit-down dining room and a cafeteria/snack bar. Most of the other ferries only offer the latter, although the M/V Tustumena (see photo links below) in southwest Alaska has a small dining room with limited menu.

 

The dining room on the Columbia offered a complete menu including salmon, halibut, cod, NY steak, chicken breast, and a couple of dinner salads. Plus there was usually a nightly special. Prices typically ranged from $18 to $20. Beer and wine were available. They also served traditional bacon-n-eggs style breakfasts for about $10.

 

On one night when the boat was especially full they suspended regular menu service in favor of a buffet including carved roast beef and baked chicken, plus the usual side and salad accompaniments. This was "OK" but the dining room was really over-crowded that night.

 

I thought the food was of good quality and reasonably priced under the circumstances. However, the level of service, whether due to inexperienced waitstaff or screw-ups in the kitchen, was sadly lacking (slow service, items delivered out of sequence, etc.). Thus, I felt the overall dining experience fell short of the potential offered by the outstanding views and setting. (See comments below related to tipping.)

 

The cafeteria/snack bar offered beverages, cold sandwiches and other deli items 24/7. Hamburgers, hotdogs and pizza were available during lunch and dinner hours. Plus, at dinner, they offered one or two cafeteria-style entrees, such as stew or stroganoff. Most items were priced under $10. A burger with fries was $8 bucks as I recall.

 

TIPPING: Alaska state law prohibits tipping in government facilities, so tipping was "officially" banned. This was stated on the menu and their credit card processing did NOT allow for the addition of tips. However, cash tips were graciously accepted and it appeared that most passengers left same.

 

The problem with this tipping policy is that I'd guess it discourages EXPERIENCED restaurant personnel from applying for positions aboard the ferries, and this perhaps accounts for the service issues noted above.

 

DRESS CODE: None stated. Frequently observed fabrics included denim, fleece and goretex. Plus the ubiquitous ball cap. I noticed a couple of older gentlemen wearing dressy slacks, sweaters and polished shoes, and they REALLY looked out of place.

 

SMOKING POLICY: Smoking was prohibited in cabins and ALL interior areas. The only designated smoking areas were on the AFT portions of outside decks (and away from the tent areas). This is the policy that ALL cruise lines should adopt, in my opinion, and was a major reason why I chose the ferries over traditional cruise lines.

 

COST: Passengers, cabins and vehicles are booked separately. Meals are not included. Traveling solo (with no vehicle) I paid about $1,500 round trip for passage and cabin. Plus I spent about $200 on meals. A second person could have stayed in my cabin for just the passenger fare of about $700. So, a couple would have paid about $2,600 including meals for this trip. Subtract about $800 if you are willing to travel WITHOUT a cabin.

 

BOTTOM LINE: I felt this was an excellent, stress-free way to see the scenery of southeast Alaska (my first trip to this area). However, as noted, the opportunity for shore side activities was limited. Cost is probably comparable to the lower-mid range of major cruise ship offerings.

I did the same trip in 2002. Round trip from Bellingham. On the Skagway to Bellingham portion there were under 100 people on board. I was cruising in early June.

In a few of the ports there were people offering short tours. I did a tour in Ketchkan,Hanies, and Juneua. In Skita, a close friend of mine daughter lives there and she picked me up for lunch. I know that we stop to Petersburg in the middle of the night. In Skagway I just wander about on my own.

I purchased soft drinks and snacks that I kept in my room to eat on. I ate on board in the dining room sometimes and also in the snack bar.

The second time to Ketchkan I misestimated the distance to the main area and walked. I took a taxi back!

In several of the ports, we were there with a RCCL and Celebrity ship. One lady asked me why wasn't I at dinner the night before. I was like what ship are you on (she thought I was on RCCL)??

I had a cabin to myself and it was enough space for me.

I enjoy just sitting and watching! It amazed me that people live in places where it's only reached by boat or air.

I want to take the ferry again in 2010. I want to fly to Dutch Harbor and take that leg.

It was a higher cost than a cruiseship, but I had a wonderful time!!

Happy sailing!!

Thanks for the review...we are seriously considering flying to Juneau or Sitka and using the ferry system next time....spending a few days in each port to give us a little more time for excursions and exploration. I have friends who have taken the Dutch Harbor ferry (because of the unique bird watching opportunities it offers) and that sounds like a real adventure as well.

Think I will stay with the cruise lines.

GERTZ

Princess Elite

Next Tahitian 9/19 Vancouver to Honolulu

Coral FLL to LA

Island 8/17/09 Alaska 4th time w/ grandson

I want to take the ferry again in 2010. I want to fly to Dutch Harbor and take that leg.

The Dutch Harbor trip is even more interesting in my opinion because of the treeless Aleutian scenery and the spartan lifestyle of the people who live and work there. And the only way to see most of it is on the Alaska Ferry. The major cruise lines rarely go there and even the smaller lines don't make nearly as many stops.

If you've got some frequent flyer miles available, the flight to Dutch Harbor would probably be an excellent opportunity to use them! :-)

The Dutch Harbor trip is even more interesting in my opinion because of the treeless Aleutian scenery and the spartan lifestyle of the people who live and work there. And the only way to see most of it is on the Alaska Ferry. The major cruise lines rarely go there and even the smaller lines don't make nearly as many stops.

 

If you've got some frequent flyer miles available, the flight to Dutch Harbor would probably be an excellent opportunity to use them! :-)

Thanks! I work for an airline and will try standby!!