Teleconverters for nikon D5000, any suggestions from users/owners?

[ion-man]

Hi folks, I'm considering getting Teleconvertor as an alternative to buying a full fledged zoom or macro lens. Any users have any suggestions for my D5000? Worthwhile alternative?

[chipmaster]

What lense? Is what you want really a teleconverter or extension tubes.

 

Kenko would be my generic suggestions for both as the Nikon specific TCE's only work with very specific lens.

 

Hi folks, I'm considering getting Teleconvertor as an alternative to buying a full fledged zoom or macro lens. Any users have any suggestions for my D5000? Worthwhile alternative?

[Coracii]

It really depends on which lens you intend to use the teleconvertor on and how you intend to use it (telephoto is different than macro). Most of the entry level lenses really don't work well with the TC's. More info is needed for a thorough answer.

[SeattleCruiselover]

My honest suggesion is don't get one. If you have a 55-200 lens (which are on sale now for about $150) with the 1.5 multiplication factor, you have the same effective shooting range as a 300,, and a 2X teleconverter would only boost it to 400. The picture quality with a teleconverter is not all that great, and they don't add anything to the focus, that's for sure. I have a D-5000 and I find that I get perfectly good shots without the teleconverter (I tried one and just did not like it).

[ion-man]

My mistake for omitting the lens info, Seattlercruiselover is correct;I did mean with reference to the 55-200mm. I do appreciate the feedback as I really needed first-hand experience so I could have an idea of whether to bother with it.

[Coracii]

The 55-200 does not work well with TC's at all. You'll lose autofocus ability and the quality of the photo will be significantly affected. I'd recommend not spending the money on a TC, instead if you need a little more reach then the 200 provides save up a bit more and go for either the 55-300VR or 70-300VR.

[SeattleCruiselover]

The 55-200 does not work well with TC's at all. You'll lose autofocus ability and the quality of the photo will be significantly affected. I'd recommend not spending the money on a TC, instead if you need a little more reach then the 200 provides save up a bit more and go for either the 55-300VR or 70-300VR.

 

Unless I'm mistaken, those two lenses have to be manual focused on the D5000 (unlike the D90), so you have to be super quick with your manual dexterity if you're trying to catch something on the fly. I know that I had to manual focus the 18-200 that I rented for my trip this year and I probably missed some things that I would have gotten with the good ole 55-200 kit lens. (But I still wouldn't get the TC, regardless). As a note, though, Nikon is doing a $100 instant rebate on the 55-300 this weekend.....

[Coracii]

Unless I'm mistaken, those two lenses have to be manual focused on the D5000 (unlike the D90), so you have to be super quick with your manual dexterity if you're trying to catch something on the fly. I know that I had to manual focus the 18-200 that I rented for my trip this year and I probably missed some things that I would have gotten with the good ole 55-200 kit lens. (But I still wouldn't get the TC, regardless). As a note, though, Nikon is doing a $100 instant rebate on the 55-300 this weekend.....

 

Both the 70-300VR and the 55-300VR have built in motors (Silent Wave Motor in Nikon terminology) and therefore will autofocus on any body, including the D5000. The original 70-300 versions did not have built-in motors and would be manual focus only. If your 18-200 was a Nikon both the VRI and VRII have the built in motor and should have been autofocus on your camera. Sigma also makes an 18-200 and it has the HSM built-in. Other brands have their own terminology for the motor (Canon is Ultra-Sonic Motor, Sigma is HSM, Tamron is BIM, Tokina is Silent DC). As long as they have a built-in motor they will autofocus on any Nikon body. The screw-drive lenses without built-in motors will be manual focus only.

[SeattleCruiselover]

Both the 70-300VR and the 55-300VR have built in motors (Silent Wave Motor in Nikon terminology) and therefore will autofocus on any body, including the D5000. The original 70-300 versions did not have built-in motors and would be manual focus only. If your 18-200 was a Nikon both the VRI and VRII have the built in motor and should have been autofocus on your camera. Sigma also makes an 18-200 and it has the HSM built-in. Other brands have their own terminology for the motor (Canon is Ultra-Sonic Motor, Sigma is HSM, Tamron is BIM, Tokina is Silent DC). As long as they have a built-in motor they will autofocus on any Nikon body. The screw-drive lenses without built-in motors will be manual focus only.

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It was a Nikon VRII and it did NOT autofocus, ever. Could be the motor was non-functional, but I had to manually focus every shot, no matter what the settings (i.e auto vs M, P, S, A, et cetera).

[Coracii]

.

 

It was a Nikon VRII and it did NOT autofocus, ever. Could be the motor was non-functional, but I had to manually focus every shot, no matter what the settings (i.e auto vs M, P, S, A, et cetera).

 

I'd say you're right, either the lens motor was malfunctioning or there was a problem in the connection between the lens and the camera. The 18-200 VRII (if working properly) will autofocus on every Nikon D-SLR.

[awboater]

I have never liked teleconverters, and agree with the above comments. But also a teleconverter will reduce the light available to the photo sensor on your camera.

 

And with an inexpensive telephoto lens, you might be starting out at f5.6 at it's maximum zoom anyway (and probably should be at f8 or f11 for the sharpest photo), and adding a teleconverter will reduce the light into the camera.

 

And with a longer lens, since you want a higher shutter speed to minimize shake, well, reducing the available light with a teleconverter just makes the problem worse.

 

I have always been of the opinion that if you use a teleconverter, you should use the same brand as the lens. And Nikon's teleconverters are not exactly cheap (and only work properly on a few lenses). Due to their expense, I'd save the money and put it towards the lens you want.

 

An extension tube - one that converts a lens to macro, that is a different story, and can be an effective alternative to purchasing a macro lens.

 

Just my opinion.

[ion-man]

Update: nixed the teleconverter idea for now... but came across this Reversing Ring and was wondering if any of you guys had experience with reversing rings. For the price, its also a very cheap alternative for macro work. Seems it will work with both manual and auto focus lenses.

[awboater]

I used a reversing ring years ago. Worked well enough. While it will work with an AF lens, you won't be able to focus with it. And most (if not all) newer lenses have no control for aperture (Nikon G lenses for instance), so you may be limited in what the lens will do.

 

However, DSLRs may not fire the shutter if it doesn't think there is a lens on it. You might be able to force it if you put it in manual mode, etc.

 

If you are looking for extreme macro use, consider a bellows. Some (but not all) of those retain the AF and aperture functions of the lens. Ebay usually has a few off-brand bellows that are relatively inexpensive.

[ion-man]

^^^ Wow, I appreciate the prompt response to my query. I was not aware of the focusing issue nor the fact that it may affect the shutter. I'll take a look the 'bellows' you suggested, as the ring isn't looking too bad right now for a $15 investment.

[awboater]

I should have said you can still manually focus the lens. Auto focus won't work.

 

And you can test it to see if you can fire the shutter by simply removing the lens and trying the shutter, which should tell you if the reversing ring will work with your camera.

[Leukoi]

Update: nixed the teleconverter idea for now... but came across this Reversing Ring and was wondering if any of you guys had experience with reversing rings. For the price, its also a very cheap alternative for macro work. Seems it will work with both manual and auto focus lenses.

 

Like serious macro? If you have the 18-55 kit lens, you can get a coupling ring and put two lenses together. This picture came from a D3000, kit 18-55 attached to the camera, the coupling ring, and a 50 1.8 with the manual aperture opened all the way. The autofocus will work with the kit lens, but you can see the heavy vignetting, and the very shallow depth of field.

 

 

If you want a true macro lens, I'd say get some sort of zoom with a macro feature. If you don't use a lens on the end with a manual aperture ring, you'll have to hold it open with your finger while you are shooting.

[glojo]

Agree with what folks are saying about teleconverters and you will be loosing at least one 'f' stop and maybe two.

 

Coupling rings are in my opinion okay for macro work but will you very quickly be disillusioned by the lack of any depth of field?

 

I really enjoy using my macro lens but I try my hardest to get as much of my subject as possible in focus, but that is me.

 

My experience of taking short cuts has always been expensive. I see an advertised cheap product that tells the whole world how good it is, but after buying it, I end up cursing myself for being so gullible and end of buying something better. Plus I then end up having to throw away the first item :o

 

Most decent photographic shops usually have a decent selection of second-hand lens and this might be a better option?

 

Going back to teleconverters I have a Nikon TC-20EII but the focussing speed is awful so here I go again and will shortly be replacing it with the Mk III :mad:;)

[nmg222]

Keep in mind that if you are thinking of making a purchase for one specific trip, you might want to rent instead of buying. Also, you might want to rent just to try out the equipment first and insure you get the results you are looking for. You can rent lenses, converters, bodies, etc.

 

I've used Borrow Lenses a few times and am quite pleased with their service. http://www.borrowlenses.com/