Carnival Breeze - 8/14/12 Trip Report with Photos!

[Alan M]

Thanks for the nice comments. The camera is a Nikon D5000 which I bought about 3 years ago. The D5000 is no longer made, it has been superceded by the D5100. The lens is a Nikkor AFS 18-200mm which is the best thing I could have done for the D5000. The camera, while allowing a LOT of control over pictures if you need it, has several automatic modes which do a great job and make it easy to concentrate on your subject rather than the technicalities of the camera.

 

Re: Steakhouse. The bill included the $35pp charge so if you keep the drinks bill down it is a very good deal for what you get.

[Alan M]

Day Six - Rome (part 1)

 

Up bright and early on Day Six, a Sunday, for our trip to Rome. I had heard all sorts of horror stories about pickpockets, the heat, the crowds, the scams and the traffic that I have to admit to a certain trepidation about going to the city. Need not have worried, we were expertly guided around the sights by Mike from Rome In Limo who not only kept us well-informed about everything we could see but also kept us fascinated by some of his “historical” tales and in stitches with his anecdotes and gags.

 

A quick continental breakfast at the Lido (it was good but why do they put the milk BEFORE the cereal in the buffet?) then down to Deck 0 to disembark and meet our new friends form London again along with Mike from RIL. The day did not get off to a good start when I realised I had forgotten our passports. Yes, Mr. Oh-So-Organised had committed the cardinal sin of leaving the family’s ID on board and kept everybody waiting while he legged it back up to Deck 7. Nobody seemed to mind too much and we were on our way in no time.

The roads were quiet and we found ourselves in Rome much quicker than anticipated. Before we knew it we were walking through some cobbled streets to the Pantheon. “Pantheon” in Greek roughly translates to “All Gods” and the building was originally made as a temple to all the old Roman gods. Later it was used as a church dedicated to St. Mary and the Martyrs, an identity it retains today. It’s an impressive building although it’s a bit confused in its architectural styles due to all the bits and pieces that have been added, modified and rebuilt over the centuries.

 

Pantheon

Tip

:

We could hardly believe how quiet the roads were going to and from Rome and discovered the two reasons: 1) It was Sunday and, 2) It was August when many Romans go on vacation. If you can stand the heat (and it is

really

hot) a weekend in late August seems to be quite a good time to visit, at least from a crowding perspective.

Outside the Pantheon there are a few stalls selling the usual selection of souvenirs and cold drinks. There was also a group of people in theatrical Roman costume who were trying to trick people into posing for photos with them.

 

Photo-op Romans

Tip

:

According to our driver Mike, these photo-op centurions work in gangs at various tourist spots around the city and have a number of scams at work. The most obvious is when they grab you and put you in a photo pose. Before you know it you have been snapped and then there is a demand for an outrageous fee, 100 euro or more. They can be quite aggressive about making you pay up, threatening even. Then the second scam kicks in: while you argue about the fee one of the centurions gets quite pushy and while you are distracted by him someone else picks your pocket or makes off with your camera or whatever. The key is to stay well clear, avoid eye contact and ignore their entreaties. We saw them at the Pantheon, the Forum and the Colosseum. I overheard one tourist say that was the most expensive photo he’d ever had taken. The police seemed to not see them so go figure.

Fontana del Pantheon

Tip

:

In the piazza opposite the temple is a fountain, the Fontana del Pantheon in the Piazza Della Rotunda. Romans pride themselves on the quality of their water supply and all of the public fountains in Rome are a source of safe, free drinking water. Just take the water from the piped flow, not from the pool which may contain coins, birds, litter or whatever.

Filling up from the fountain

 

Moving on from the Pantheon we quickly visited the Spanish Steps then the Piazza Venezia where the largely unpopular National Monument to Vittorio Emanuele II is located. Known to tourists as “The Wedding Cake” and to some Romans as “The Typewriter” it is a controversial structure which contains the tomb to the unknown soldier complete with eternal flame. Regardless of its like/dislike status it is worth a visit for the pomp and grandeur alone. The Piazza Venezia is also home to the house where Michelangelo lived while painting the Sistine Chapel ceiling and the Palazzo Venezia where Mussolini had his office and the balcony from where he delivered many of his speeches.

 

The Wedding Cake

 

The Spanish Steps

 

I am going to have to split this part because I am only allowed six photos per post and there is so much more of Rome to see.

 

Next .... Rome part 2, The Colosseum and St. Peters

[Alan M]

Day Six - Rome (part 2)

 

After leaving the Piazza Venezia we made our way to the Capitoline Hill with its famous Equestrian Statue of Marcus Aurelius, massive sculptures of Castor and Pollux, stylish Renaissance Piazza del Campiglio by Michelangelo and behind the civic palazzos, a terrace from where we could look out on the ancient ruins of the Roman Forum with the Colosseum in the distance.

Tip

:

Walk up the cordonata (steps) from the Via del Teatro di Marcelo (we parked near there) past the giant statues to the

Piazza del Campidoglio then bear right past the wedding registry. A narrow road takes you to a terrace where the forum opens up before you – breathtaking!

The Forum

 

Next stop was the Colosseum (more costumed photo-muggers) which was extremely hot (115 deg. F / 46 deg. C) and had what we estimated to be a two–hour line for tickets. Once again we had booked ahead online (ticketclic.it) and walked straight to the front, picked up our tickets then walked straight in. The Colosseum is amazing, awe-inspiring and terrifying all at once. We felt very uncomfortable about all of the innovation and technology that went into its inception and operation purely for the purpose of gratifying the masses’ blood lust through the slaughter of thousands of humans and animals. But don’t let that put you off, it is really worth seeing.

 

The Colosseum

Tip

: W

ear the best walking shoes you can afford for this cruise. You will certainly need them for Rome where the streets are cobbled and uneven and where you have to climb and descend a lot of steps. Your feet are going to be hot and sore so treat them well. I invested in a pair of Ecco walking shoes and I am glad that I did.

We spent about an hour and a half at the Colosseum and were extremely hot and tired by the time we left. Plenty of stalls outside where you gladly pay whatever they ask for a cold drink. Time for a break and Mike took us to a restaurant for lunch which we thought was off the beaten track but actually found it to be full of tourists. All the same the food was good, the service was quick and it was reasonably priced.

 

After lunch we embarked on the final part of our visit to Rome, the Vatican City and St. Peter’s Basilica. The Vatican Museum was closed because it was Sunday so we were unable to see the Sistine Chapel. This was disappointing but not surprising as we knew in advance what the opening hours were. I think on balance we were so fortunate to have no crowds or traffic on our August Sunday that it compensated a lot for not being able to see Michelangelo’s ceiling.

St. Peters’ square had only a few dozen people milling around and after a quick photo stop (had to shoot all those statues of saints and popes) we wound our way through the empty crowd control barriers to the security check where our bags were x-rayed and our dress code checked.

 

St. Peter’s Square almost empty!

Tip

:

Modest dress is a must for most religious sites in Italy and it is considered most disrespectful to try and visit unsuitably attired. This means no bare shoulders for men or women and no shorts above the knee. Some say no shorts at all but we did not experience this. While it is only right and proper to respect holy places, it is difficult to spend a day tramping around in the heat with clothes that cover you from head to foot. The solution we found that was quite acceptable to every church we visited was for the ladies to carry a beach wrap for their legs and a pashmina or light shawl for their shoulders. These items can be bundled up really small and light and fit easily in a handbag (purse). For men, DS and I both wore polo shirts and tailored shorts when we visited churches and caused no offence. Guys, it is not polite to wear a hat indoors in Europe! This is a fading tradition but believe me, it’s not cool to wear a baseball cap in a cathedral.

The Basilica, like the rest of the Vatican City, is protected by the Swiss Guard. Their colourful Renaissance-style uniforms are often said to have been designed by Michelangelo but in fact the current outfits were designed by one of the guard commanders in 1914. The pikes they carry look as if they could do some damage!

 

Swiss Guard

 

I was not prepared for the splendour of the interior of St Peter’s Basilica. The sheer beauty and scale of the main cathedral and side chapels takes your breath away and the way the light filters down in rays just contributes further to the spiritual wonder of the building. I have been in St Paul’s in London which I thought was the most impressive place of worship I had ever seen but St. Peter’s tops it. We spent a long time in the Basilica and noted that some of the visitors were invited to attend Mass in one of the chapels. I thought that was a pretty neat thing to allow them to do but we are not Roman Catholic so we passed. Everywhere we looked we were astounded by the craftsmanship and effort that went into the huge frescoes, gilt carvings and intricately detailed domes and cupolae. I could fill a whole photo site with the pictures I took but I had had to whittle it down to these two:

 

Basilica interior

 

Dome and Cupola

 

By the time we finished in St Peters we were quite exhausted and several of us slept on the way back to Civitavecchia where the ship was moored. We got back just after 5:00pm and could conceivably have stayed a little longer in Rome as the ship did not sail until 9:00pm but I honestly don’t think we had the energy to do any more. Full marks once again to Rome In Limo. Mike was entertaining, knowledgeable and thoroughly professional. On both the Florence trip and in Rome we had a current model Mercedes van with leather seats and AC. It comfortably accommodated our group of five adults and three teenagers. Eight adults plus the driver might have been a bit of a squeeze but we were in neither vehicle for any longer than an hour (between the coast and the destination city) and often it was just a few minutes.

 

Made it to the Blush MDR that evening in a spirit of forgiveness and dinner was actually not bad.

 

I am going to add another page of pictures before going on to the next port.

 

Next .... Angels & Demons

[Alan M]

Day Six - Rome (Part 3)

 

I wanted to share just a handful of the statues we came across in Rome. I don't know why because I normally don't give statues a second look but I really found some of them fascinating. The first one was used in the promotional material for the Tom Hanks movie "Angels & Demons". The rest .... well, the rest weren't.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The last one is The Pietà by the young Michelangelo. It is located near the entrance to St. Peters Basilica but is kept behind a glass screen on account of some deranged person who attacked and damaged it back in the 70s.

 

Next .... Naples for Pompeii, Sorrento and Capri

[NYHartChapp]

Terrific review.

[Gail & Marty sailing away]

Great pictures ..

[GRAMMYTAN]

I am enjoying your review and love the picture of the Pieta. This was one of my favorites on our tour. We were told at the beginning of our tour to turn off the flash on our cameras and my pictures of the Pieta are quite dark due to the area and the glass. Did you use a flash here? I have a new camera now (Nikon Cool Pix P510 with a 42X zoom) and am looking forward to some great pictures on my upcoming Med cruise.

[Alan M]

@GRAMMYTAN

 

I did not use flash at all inside the Basilica. Had to try and hold the camera very steady but most of the pix came out ok.

 

Good luck with your new one.

[Sugaraynh]

Thanks for the nice comments. The camera is a Nikon D5000 which I bought about 3 years ago. The D5000 is no longer made, it has been superceded by the D5100. The lens is a Nikkor AFS 18-200mm which is the best thing I could have done for the D5000. The camera, while allowing a LOT of control over pictures if you need it, has several automatic modes which do a great job and make it easy to concentrate on your subject rather than the technicalities of the camera.

 

Re: Steakhouse. The bill included the $35pp charge so if you keep the drinks bill down it is a very good deal for what you get.

 

Thank you so much for the answers to both questions!

[GRAMMYTAN]

Thanks Alan. I have resorted at times to using my husband's shoulder as a brace to stabilize my night shots LOL. I had considered taking a small expandable tripod but with the weight restrictions on the flights, you have to watch every "little" item as they really tend to add pounds to the luggage. It also makes for extra weight to lug around all day on 9 hour tours.

Note to others: be sure to know how to disable your flash on your camera before going. I didn't know how to do this the first time we went and it took a bit of trial and error as we got ready to enter.

[brunoh55]

Thanks Alan. I have resorted at times to using my husband's shoulder as a brace to stabilize my night shots LOL. I had considered taking a small expandable tripod but with the weight restrictions on the flights, you have to watch every "little" item as they really tend to add pounds to the luggage. It also makes for extra weight to lug around all day on 9 hour tours.

 

Note to others: be sure to know how to disable your flash on your camera before going. I didn't know how to do this the first time we went and it took a bit of trial and error as we got ready to enter.

 

I purchased a mono-pod, very lightweight with a case and strap from Amazon, haven't tried it yet, we are cruising on the Breeze Oct 1st. I saw the Pieta at the NY Worlds Fair, when I was 9.

 

 

Sam

 

Sam

[Alan M]

@brunoh55

 

The Pieta is really something, isn't it? Hope you enjoy your cruise as much as we did.

 

@GRAMMYTAN

 

I took a mini-tripod with me, one of these. Its a useful tool in some situations but for me it was a waste of effort this time, used it only once the whole trip. I learned a lot about my camera from Ken Rockwell. His website has a lot of camera reviews but he also offers great practical advice on photography too.

 

Just realised that I have broken the links to photos in my first couple of posts, hopefully a moderator will help me get them fixed, if not I will re-post the photos.

[DEBnGAB]

Great review and pictures!!

[Alan M]

Fixed the photo links in my first couple of posts.

[Alan M]

Day Seven – Naples (part 1) – Pompeii

 

Today we made last-minute changes to an excursion plan that had been changed several times already and as things it turned out we were very, very happy with the final version.

 

Original Plan: Take a Rome In Limo trip to Sorrento and Positano, go for a pizza-making lesson. This one fell through because no-one else signed up on the website and we felt that 550 euro was a bit steep for just the three of us.

 

Revision One: Pay the Carnival price to go to Pompeii and the Amalfi Coast. Nope, DW didn’t fancy the cliffside bus trip.

 

Revision Two: Although most people advise against trying to do it we decided, after a GREAT deal of consultation with Rick Steves' book to visit Pompeii early in the morning to avoid the heat then head down to Sorrento for lunch and visit the Isle of Capri in the afternoon. This tour requires travel by bus, train and ferry therefore demands strict adherence to schedule. Ahem!

Tip

:

Rick Steves’ guide tells you how to do this starting with a bus trip from the pier to the train station followed by an often-unreliable (and possibly thief-ridden) train journey to Pompeii, a very quick wander round the ruins then further by train to Sorrento, a walk down the cliff to catch a ferry to Capri then a funicular ride to Capri town before returning directly to Naples by ferry. It is do-able but you would spend most of your time in transit so on reflection my advice is to take an excursion less time-sensitive and reliant on public transport. This is in fact what we did, same itinerary but by private transport.

The Reality: We overslept and were running about 30 minutes late. I got really twitchy about our schedule but thankfully the Voice of Reason (DW) intervened and insisted first of all that we have a decent breakfast. Duly complied with in the Lido, nice fresh fruit and croissants. We got off the ship and started to walk to the end of the pier following Rick’s instructions to find first of all a Tabachi to buy bus tickets and then the bus stop to take us to the railway station. The Voice of Reason intervened once again and started negotiating with a taxi driver to take us to Pompeii.

 

There was a bunch of drivers just outside the terminal building all touting for business and DW started talking to a decidedly shifty-looking guy who I was convinced was going to rip us off or worse, take us somewhere quiet and rob us. Sorry Massimo, I was so wrong about you to begin with but by the time we parted company we were the best of friends.

Tip

:

The taxi drivers are quite vocal in trying to win your business and this can be quite off-putting. If you can get over that (thankfully DW could) pick one who speaks good English (unless you speak good Italian of course) and agree a price before you go anywhere. Ask to see his credentials (taxi, permit, insurance etc.) and inspect the vehicle before you go. Most we saw were in very good condition. Taxis have meters but agreeing a fixed price for a long journey is usually more economical for you, it also helps ensure that you are taken directly where you want to go.

DW was, of course, right and Massimo turned out to be a fully-licensed and insured driver with a new, clean taxi, a mischievous sense of humour and a love of cheesy Rat Pack songs about Italy. We agreed on a price of 200 euro for him to take us to Pompeii, wait while we toured the ruins then take us to Sorrento for the ferry to Capri. The price would have been the same if we had decided to end the excursion in Sorrento and have him drive us back to Naples. Could we have bargained the price down? Probably, but Rick Steves reckons a trip to Sorrento is worth 170 euro and with a 2-hour stop in Pompeii included I thought 200 was fair especially since we were running late. This was still way less than the $200-$300 per person Carnival wanted for this kind of excursion so we agreed and off we went.

 

Massimo (Max) spoke good English and we laughed as I tried to practice my terrible Italian on him. All the time we were driving he was calling ahead to other drivers for traffic reports as the whole region is famous for snarl-ups and he didn’t want us to spend the day stuck in jams. Apart from a couple of miles of road works and a small bottleneck near one of the beaches it was quite painless. The journey to Pompeii took about 40 minutes and when we got there Max gave us very precise instructions about what to do and where to go. The one piece of advice he gave us that I wish we had followed was to buy a guide book. Nothing wrong with Rick Steves, in fact we followed his “quick” tour as best we could but it was hot, really hot and the sun was so bright with very little shade to be found. Trying to read an iPad on the move in those conditions was frustrating and inefficient.

Tip

: Depending on how long you plan to spend there, buy a proper guide book, there are loads for sale at stalls on the way in but none that I could see at the ticket office although I wasn't really looking at that point. Alternatively, rent a headset for an audio tour or best of all, acquire the services of a licensed guide.

If I got the chance to see Pompeii again I would definitely, definitely take a guide. It need not be expensive as the guides seemed happy to wait for other walk-ups to join the group and keep the individual cost down. Rick’s self-guided tour was interesting but could not come close to the depth of knowledge a licensed guide can offer.

 

Pompeii Theatre

 

Vesuvius looms large over the Temple of Jupiter

 

We loved Pompeii, we loved the frisson generated by being overlooked by the still-active Vesuvius everywhere we went. We were continually amazed at the ingenuity and resourcefulness of the original citizens as well as the tragedy folowing the eruption. Because Pompeii was not on our original plan we had not pre-booked tickets and had to stand in line for about 25 minutes to gain admission. Tickets were 11 euro each for DW and me, DS was admitted free of charge.

Tip

: I really likethe way the Italian authorities encourage visits by young people to cultural and historical locations. I don’t recall paying an entry fee for DS in any of the cities we visited. Anyone planning to buy tickets should check this closely; it was my understanding that only EU passport holders under 18 or over 65 were allowed free entry however young persons of any nationality under the age of 25 with valid student ID were usually offered a discount or free entry (it varied).

Pompeii is big, much bigger than most people think and to do it full justice could easily take several days. We tried to fast-track it in an hour and a half which was clearly not the ideal way to see it but we did manage some of the major features such as the Forum, City Courts, Temple of Jupiter, House of the Faun , Public Baths and several villas, apartments and shops. The Lupanar section was closed on the day we visited so no naughty bits!

 

Pompeii Forum

 

Bakery - Oven on the left, flour grinders on the right

 

Ancient fountain with modern plumbing

 

Again, if I got the chance I would try to spend the best part of a day in Pompeii but with one caveat: not in summer. There really is very little shade and it became almost unbearably hot.

Tip

: I’m sure this appears in plenty of tour guides but for me it can’t be driven home enough. Wear plenty of sunscreen and a hat when visiting Pompeii. Also bring plenty of water, once you are inside the ruins there are some refreshment opportunities but few and far between.

We saw some people keeping the sun off with parasols. I don’t think parasols are a good idea in places where crowds occur or where narrow paths and doorways push people together. They have a habit of striking other people in the face and can cause eye injuries. Most of the ladies we saw using them seemed completely oblivious to this.

 

Pompei street

 

Even though it was just a short visit, Pompeii left a lasting impression on all three of us. It made us think about its history in terms of real people in real lives in tragic circumstances. Well worth the visit and I highly recommend it.

We met up with Max at the agreed time outside the gate and bought some cold drinks and souvenirs. Freshly-squeezed OJ looked yummy but we kept our sensible hats on and drank only water so as not to risk upset stomachs on the jetboat later.

 

Next .... Part 2 - Sorrento

[Alan M]

Day Seven – Naples (part 2) – Sorrento

 

The drive from Pompeii to Sorrento would have taken probably only 20 minutes or so were it not for the number of photo stops we made. Every time we turned a corner there was another spectacular view that we just had to take a picture of. Max was very patient and gave us a fabulous journey to remember. No sooner were we out of Pompeii and starting to climb the road up the Sorrentine Peninsula than we saw a fire-fighting helicopter tackling a forest fire. Fires are very common here in the summer especially after an extended period without rainfall. We watched the helicopter head down to the Bay of Naples and take on water in a giant bag whereupon it flew back up the hillside to dump the water on the burning trees and scrub. It is always great to watch professionals at work and this was no exception. No pictures I’m sorry to say, DS took some video but it’s too distant for a decent frame grab.

 

As we drove higher we entered the first of several tunnels one of which was 2km long! We saw more tunnels under construction which will ease traffic flow in the future. Our first photo stop was for a panoramic view of the Bay of Naples and Mount Vesuvius. According to Max, on a clear winter day you can easily see Naples and your cruise ship in the port but today it was a little hazy and we had to make do with a rather fuzzy look at one of the most famous coastal views in the world.

 

Bay of Naples

 

As we drove up we passed a number of villages and every now and then the road would drop down near a tiny lido packed full of sunseekers. As we got closer to Sorrento the road wound more and more with the view round each corner more spectacular than the last.

 

Coast near Sorrento

 

Church and Monastery

 

Beach/Lido

 

Sorrento itself is a pretty little resort town which has been a popular tourist destination for many years. There are many elegant hotels and villas which attracted the rich and famous for most of the 20th century. We spent a pleasant half hour drinking coffee at a cafe near the main square and enjoyed watching the cool motor scooters buzzing back and forth. Sorrento’s streets are so narrow that Vespas and the like are the most practical form of transport and everybody rides them, young and old, rich and not-so-rich. We had planned to do some shopping in Sorrento but Max convinced us to wait until we got to Capri.

 

Sorrento

 

Lido

 

While Sorrento itself is quietly elegant, its harbour and adjoining lido are brash, busy and fun. This was where we parted company with Max who would not let us go before giving us once again very precise instructions on how to get to Capri, what to do when we got there and how to get back to Naples again. Max left us with a bright smile and a warm handshake asking only for the agreed fare. We returned the smile and handshake along with the fare and a generous tip which started off a whole new round of smiles and handshakes and declarations of undying friendship. Thanks Max, you made our day.

 

At the harbour we stood in line for about 10 minutes to buy tickets for the jetfoil boat to Capri, 50 euro for all three of us for the one-way journey, I’m not sure what the fare breakdown was but there was a child reduction for DS. The ticket office accepted credit cards which was just as well because I was running low on Euros. Found an ATM on Capri and we were cash-solvent again.

 

We were directed by the ticket seller to Dock number 9 and of course the boat left from Dock 8 but the deckhands at the boat seemed used to this and went round the nearby docks shepherding their passengers on board the correct one. The boat left exactly on time and the ride was smooth as well as very fast.

 

Next .... Part 3 - Capri

[Eqty]

I purchased a mono-pod, very lightweight with a case and strap from Amazon, haven't tried it yet, we are cruising on the Breeze Oct 1st. I saw the Pieta at the NY Worlds Fair, when I was 9.

 

 

Sam

 

Sam

 

Sam - we are on the same Oct 1st cruise and, coincidentally, also saw the Pieta at the NY Worlds fair when I was 9.

[Eqty]

Alan - fabulous review and breathtaking pictures! 27 days can't pass fast enough.

-Bob & Gay

[Alan M]

Day Seven – Naples (part 3) – Capri

 

On the Jetboat? Jetfoil? Hydrofoil? .... what’s it called? On the fast boat to Capri we experienced the one and only instance of out and out rudeness from a vendor during our whole cruise. Max had advised us to take a taxi tour of Capri as this was the easiest and most efficient way to see the highlights given the time we had. On the fast boat we were solicited by a man who was clearly having a bad day. He was selling minibus trips around the island. We listened to his pitch but declined his offer when he belaboured the time he planned to spend at the Blue Grotto. We have seen that sort of thing before in Thailand and really were not interested. All the same he put his company’s stickers on our shirts and became really agitated when we took them off. He started shouting at us and only stopped when I stood up. After that he left us alone but started muttering under his breath at DW as we got off the boat. We soon put the incident out of our minds as we got to grips with Capri. We passed a rather splendid-looking modern tall ship on our way in, wonder if those sails are ever used?

 

Just outside Marina Grande

Tip

:

Following Max’s advice we went straight to the Biglieterria (ticket office) after coming ashore to buy our tickets to Naples. Sometimes the boats get crowded and you can’t get back so we made sure by buying our tickets when we arrived. This, we were assured, guaranteed us a place on the boat on the way back

Marina Grande

 

We bought our tickets for the return journey to Naples, 55 euro for the three of us. There are at least three lines operating and they advertise different departure times. Journey times and prices vary between lines and the type of boat used. Faster=more expensive so you have to pick your line and your time carefully. We chose a fast boat leaving at 5:10pm which would have us back in port by 6pm.

 

Tip

:

There is an electronic board near the ticket office which displays what boat is leaving, what line it belongs to and which dock it will depart from as well as the departure time of course. Do not believe the dock number for one second. Ask at the desk, the dock and anyone else who looks like they might know. It is a little chaotic but everybody seems to end up where they are supposed to.

Before doing anything we had to have lunch. We were ravenous after a very busy morning and by this time (approx. 1:45pm) we were ready to eat anything. We chose a busy restaurant on the main street near the harbour in Marina Grande, pizzas for DW and DS, local fish with salad for me. Jolly good it was too and for dessert I indulged myself with a delicious Affogato. Affogato literally means “drowned”, it’s a scoop of vanilla gelato topped with hot espresso and a shot of amaretto. I was first introduced to it by my brother at an Italian restaurant in Edinburgh. I was blown away by it then and when we made it for friends at home they said it was the best dessert they had ever had. Anyway, the Affogato Caprese did not disappoint and I could have stayed there happily all afternoon.

It was a slight mistake staying in Marina Grande because as we ate lunch several boats arrived, disgorged their tourist hordes and all of a sudden there were no taxis to be had! We joined the taxi queue which was near the lower station of Capri’s funicular railway. A lot of people abandoned the taxi queue intending to take the funicular not realising that there was a long line at the funicular ticket office round the corner. We stayed put and only had to wait about 10 minutes.

Tip

: If you plan to use the funicular railway to get from Marina Grande to Capri Town you cannot buy tickets at the station. You have to go to the ticket office which is round the corner on the right as you leave the dock, next to the hydrofoil ticket offices. The station itself is easy to find, straight across the road from the dock.

Max told us that a one-hour quick tour of the island would cost 70-80 euro by taxi. Our driver, Franco asked for 100 euro for an hour and a half so we jumped into his Capriolet and were off. Most of the taxis in Capri are stretched small saloons which are open at the back although most have a removable awning to keep the sun off. Franco took us up the switchback roads above the harbour stopping now and again for jaw-dropping views over the harbour, the sea and the mainland.

 

Capri's main habour from the slopes of Monte Capello

 

Franco took us first to Anacapri, Capri’s second town where we briefly strolled the shops and bought ceramics and limoncello. Limoncello is a lemon-based liqueur (who’d have thought?) made locally in the Naples/Sorrento/Amalfi region. Apart from being quite delicious on its own it is great for flavouring cakes, desserts and sorbets. We bought a litre for 10 euro along with some ceramics.

 

Limoncello shop

 

DW could have spent hours and a lot of money in Anacapri’s shops. Clothes, art, ceramics, limoncello, leather, shoes. She was like a child in a candy store. My wallet was lucky and got away with some limoncello and some hand-painted number tiles for our garden wall.

 

Tip

:

We had been warned that Capri was expensive but we found prices there pretty much the same as the touristy places on the mainland. Don’t be afraid to ask for a discount, it is usually expected and granted but equally don’t expect a bazaar-style bargaining session. On Capri a polite request will be met with a polite offer and that’s the end of it. That was our experience at least.

Franco took us to a viewpoint on the south side of the island where we saw the yachts of the seriously rich moored in the bay outside Marina Piccola in the shadow of the Faraglioni. DW was swooning by now and declared Capri the most beautiful and romantic place she had ever seen.

 

Faraglioni

 

We passed Belvedere Tragara and ogled the fabulous villas there before stopping for a stroll and a little window shopping in Capri Town. Franco deposited us back in Marina Grande in plenty of time for the fast boat back to Naples. Once again we were directed to the wrong dock and once again the deckhands came to our (and others’) rescue by redirecting us to the correct boat.

Capri Town

 

The trip back to Naples took about 40 minutes. We sat on the open deck and had cold drinks as we were treated to yet more spectacular views of Vesuvius as the boat approached Naples. It docked at the pier right next to the Breeze so we only had to walk a few yards to get back on board. Had a passable dinner in Blush and DW was quite melancholy as we sailed past Capri leaving the Bay of Naples behind.

 

Next .... Messina (Sicily)

[Alan M]

@eqty

 

Thanks Bob & Gay. Hope you enjoy it as much as we did. We can't decide whether to follow the Breeze to Miami for our next cruise or go back to the Med. on the Sunshine

Edited September 4, 2012 by Alan M

[spacepotatoes]

Fantastic review and gorgeous photos! Thanks for taking the time to do it :)

[Alan M]

Day Eight – Messina (Sicily)

 

Messina is a working port which holds little of interest to the cruiser looking for a full day ashore. There were a number of trips available from Carnival and local firms to places like Mount Etna or Taormina which I heard good reports about but we had already decided not to make it an excursion day because it was the fifth port day in a row and we thought another long outing would be a bit much.

 

Breakfast in the Blush DR

 

Instead we had a leisurely breakfast in the Blush Dining room. The choice was the same as on the Lido but it was quite nice to have it served and eat off a tablecloth with silverware and napkins. I had Eggs Benedict which were horrible and Corned Beef Hash which was superb.

 

The ship docks very close to town and it is just a short stroll past a bunch of guys selling fake handbags and sunglasses to the main road through the city. Cross the main road and there is an impromptu sales office in a churchyard selling “Discover Messina” tours. We booked up for a walking tour of Messina. At only 8 euro per head we did not expect much and we were right. Our guide could barely speak English, seemed extremely nervous and mumbled into his chest so much that only one of us at a time could hear him. After a while we convinced him that it wasn’t working for us and we all agreed that we should ask him questions, one at a time, and then share the answer between us. That kind of worked but overall it was a poor experience which I wouldn’t recommend to anyone else. Felt sorry for the tour guide, he was a really nice guy but clearly not cut out for the job. I learned from him at the end that he had just graduated from college in Political Science and this was just a fill-in job to help him earn some cash.

 

Messina Cathedral's Astronomical Clock

 

Messina has an interesting astronomical clock in the main square. We were told that the mid-day display from the clock was worth seeing. Nope. Standing for 20 minutes in the noon sun watching a few clunky mechanical figures waltz around to a digital backing track was not good. I likened it to watching an oversized cuckoo clock.

 

Cristo Re

 

We walked a long way up hill to Cristo Re and were rewarded with spectacular views of Messina’s sickle-shaped harbour, the straits and Calabria beyond. We also had a great view of the Breeze in the harbour. Close to the ship we found a street full of cafes where we stopped for coffee and free internet, also visiting a pastry shop selling fantastic authentic Sicilian cannoli.

 

Messina Harbour

 

The Breeze in Messina

 

Sailaway was earlier than usual, 4:00pm as I remember so we had to get back on board in the early afternoon. That evening we had booked our second outing to one of the Breeze’s speciality restaurants, the Cucina Del Capitano. The service was a little disorganised to begin with and the waitress “lost” our order but after an awful lot of apologising (too much, we weren’t mad) things got back on track and we enjoyed an excellent meal. Portions were huge though, way too much. It was a good deal for $12 a head and their cannoli, while not the real Sicilian deal, were quite good too.

 

Cucina Del Capitano

 

Took a stroll on deck then tried the Red Frog Pub but it was pretty quiet and we didn’t stay. Went to bed early and after five port days in a row we slept very soundly.

 

Next .... At Sea

Edited September 4, 2012 by Alan M

[cruisenanny]

Thanks Alan! This is a great review that I am enjoying very much!

[GRAMMYTAN]

Alan thanks for the link on the mini-tripod -I have actually looked at these and may pick one up before we leave. Your review is wonderful and yes the Pieta is really something - something amazing.

 

 

 

@brunoh55

 

The Pieta is really something, isn't it? Hope you enjoy your cruise as much as we did.

 

@GRAMMYTAN

 

I took a mini-tripod with me, one of these. Its a useful tool in some situations but for me it was a waste of effort this time, used it only once the whole trip. I learned a lot about my camera from Ken Rockwell. His website has a lot of camera reviews but he also offers great practical advice on photography too.

 

Just realised that I have broken the links to photos in my first couple of posts, hopefully a moderator will help me get them fixed, if not I will re-post the photos.

[gelo7]

Wonderful review and pics!!