Cruise Critic heads to Progreso!

[Cruise Critic Chris]

I'm the (relatively new) Destinations editor for Cruise Critic. I'll be heading down to Progreso in mid-September to visit the port and check out the activities and excursions that cruise passengers can find on shore. It's my first time in Merida, although I've traveled all over Mexico. Got any specifics that you'd like me to look into? Let me know!

[tkportersat]

Trying to decide between kayaking, dune buggies or ATV (Carnival); so any feedback on any of those would be appreciated!! This is usually a port I stay on the ship, would like to get more out of the stop this time. Thanks!!

 

I'm the (relatively new) Destinations editor for Cruise Critic. I'll be heading down to Progreso in mid-September to visit the port and check out the activities and excursions that cruise passengers can find on shore. It's my first time in Merida, although I've traveled all over Mexico. Got any specifics that you'd like me to look into? Let me know!

[PSkinner]

My sister and I are taking our Mom in November and she now must use a walker. Any activities that would be accessible yet still give her a feel for the City would be nice. Wondering about tours thru ships if they use vans, buses, etc.

[Cruise Critic Chris]

Hi everyone -

 

I arrived in Merida last night. The city is preparing for Mexican Independence Day, and so the streets and plazas are very festive, lit up with lights and spotlights on the bell at the Governor's Palace that will ring in celebration.

 

The architecture in Merida is gorgeous, at least in the historic center. It has a very colonial feel, and most of the historic buildings and theaters have been renovated. I noticed several shops, both high-end and touristy. Hammocks are the big tourist items in Yucatan, but I have my eye on a few folk art masks at a shop on Calle 60 that seem reasonably priced. Will keep you posted on what's good to buy!

 

Last night, I had some tasty guacamole and tacos at Los Trompos, a restaurant that's right across from Santa Lucia. A large serving, plus a Negra Modelo light, cost about $10. This would be a nice place to stop for lunch, if you were touring the city.

 

Today, I'm heading out on an excursion with William Lawson, to Mayapan and a "hidden cenote." I'm a big fan of Mexico's cenotes, and this area of Yucatan has some of the best. I'll be on the lookout to see how safe it is to swim, and how accessible the water is. This tour company also has a Taste of Merida tour, and I'll be asking questions about that too.

[Cruise Critic Chris]

I just returned from about seven hours spent with William Lawson and his Lawsons Original Yucatan tours. Even though there are no ships in Progreso today, I asked him to give me as close an experience as I could get. I chose the company because it seemed that many people on this board were curious about him, and what he had to offer.

 

A caveat about this company: They specialize in private, small group tours. They don't believe in mixing strangers together, although Ralf (the owner, originally from Canada) says that he does get groups who came together from CC roll calls. This is the company to call if you have a specialized interest, want to go somewhere off the beaten path or want to make sure you can do things at your own pace. He uses air-conditioned vans that seat a dozen to 16 people, although he can get a larger bus if the group is big enough.

 

I love swimming in cenotes, and know that Yucatan has some of the best. So Ralf suggested that I take his Mayapan and Cenote tour that caters to cruise tourists. It gives you a little bit of everything, and still gets you back to the ship by 2:30.

 

Mayapan is not as grand as Chichen Itza or Uxmal. What it is, however, is unspoiled. You won't find vendors or crowds, and you could even have the site to yourself. While I was underwhelmed with the lack of stelae or details that you see at some sites (apparently hacienda owners and thieves carted off the more intricate stones), I did appreciate the peacefulness. You can still see pottery shards on the ground.

 

What's also great about Mayapan is that you can climb the 90-foot main pyramid, if you aren't afraid of heights (there is no railing and some of the rocks are uneven, so I wouldn't recommend this if you're the nervous type). I'm not the fittest chick in the world, but I didn't have problems climbing at all. The view from the top gives you a good look at the surrounding jungle. Ralf had a driver with us who is Mayan in ancestry, and we had an interesting discussion about the Mayan calendar and hoopla surrounding last year's alleged "end of the world." On my visit, it was cloudy; normally, you'll want to pack plenty of sunscreen and a hat as there's no shade at all. Some bug spray would be also be appropriate.

 

After checking out Mayapan, we drove a short distance to the tiny town of Pixyah. A crowd of children greeted our van, most of them speaking Mayan (which you don't see in Merida; most people in Yucatan's cities speak Spanish, at least in public). We visited a small grocery store, where Ralf picked up a bag of sweet and savory pastries known as hojaldra. I found them addictive.

 

From the town, we followed a local guide down an unmarked road (bumpy but not obnoxiously so) to what Ralf calls the "hidden cenote." I promised that I wouldn't tell anyone exactly where it was, as tour guides have been known to poach other peoples' routes. Suffice it to say that you're pretty deep in the woods by the time you get there.

 

The cenote itself looked in great shape. On my visit, the skies were gray because of Hurricane Ingrid, but when the sun is shining, the light makes the cenote water turn blue. You take some steep wooden steps down to a platform, where you can leave your clothes and towel for a swim. If you aren't a strong swimmer, Ralf provides life vests, as the water gets deep pretty quickly (I didn't have any problems). I spent about 30 minutes happily paddling around the clear water, which had a temperature of 75 degrees or so. It felt good on a cloudy day; on a typical steamy Yucatan afternoon, it would feel like bliss.

 

Some logistics: I wore a swimsuit under my clothes and closed toe water shoes around Mayapan (which does have a modern, clean bathroom). After the cenote dip, I changed into my underwear in the van; Ralf and the driver stayed a respectable distance away (and the windows were tinted dark). Towels were provided, as were drinks and some snacks.

 

If there's time before the ship leaves, Ralf will take visitors to a second cenote. I had wanted to do part of his "taste of Merida" tour instead (I'll write that up in a separate post). He's very open about tailoring the tour to your group's needs, and welcomes suggestions. In short, if you're the type of cruise passenger who really wants to experience something different in Yucatan and have an adventurous streak, this tour would be a great choice.

[Cruise Critic Chris]

I had also asked Ralf at Lawson Yucatan Excursions about the Taste of Merida tours that he runs. I'm a huge foodie, and discovering local food is one of my favorite parts about traveling.

 

The foodie tours start in Merida with a tour of the Grande Plaza, including the cathedral and Governor's Palace. It also includes a stop at Sorbeteria Colon, which has been around since 1907. While they have traditional flavors, Ralf recommends that you try coconut, guanabana and other tastes that are more exotic (I'm plotting a stop here later tonight).

 

We went to the traditional Yucatan restaurant where Ralf brings guests who take the tour. He explained the dishes on the menu, and did the ordering. You can create your own salsa, based on what kind of peppers you like (smoky, spicy, sharp). You can also watch a woman at the restaurant make the corn tortillas by hand. So fresh and yummy when they are done that way.

 

Contrary to what many people think, Yucatan food itself isn't spicy. The salsas and condiments that they bring adds the spice. The food in this region also has European influences that you don't see elsewhere in Mexico, primarily because the Yucatan Peninsula was cut off from the rest of the country. In colonial times, people took their culinary cues from Cuba, the Caribbean and New Orleans instead of Mexico City.

 

Ralf persuaded me to try Michelada - beer spiced with Worcester sauce, served in a glass rimmed with salt and chilis. Think of it as a Mexican Bloody Mary (and it's tastier than it sounds). Other dishes we tried included sopa de lima (lime soup), empanada de cazon (shark!), longaniza - a smoked sausage similar to chorizo that you eat in a homemade tortilla - and queso relleno (stuffed cheese). I liked all of it except the last, which seemed a little rich to me.

 

By the end, I was stuffed. But if you're a sweets lover, ask Ralf about his wife's cookies. She's the Mrs. Field's of Merida, with a baking business that encompasses several stores (and supplies restaurants too). The company is called Kukis. He gave me a box of sweets to bring home. The office will appreciate them, I'm sure.

 

In my last post, I didn't mention the prices. For a family of six, the Mayapan/cenote tour is $87 per person. The Taste of Merida tour is $111. All tours include entry fees, tours of sites with qualified guide, food and drinks, tips to local "helpers", towels, lifejackets etc. Prices go up with more people, down with fewer.

 

I'm the type of person who splurges on excursions when I travel (in Europe, Context Travel is my go-to service), and I often hire personal guides, particularly in countries where I don't speak the language. I tend to ask A LOT of questions (and so does my husband), which can annoy people when we're on a larger tour. I also hate trips where you end up stopping at a cameo factory or papyrus museum that you have absolutely no interest in, just because the guide or tour company is receiving a kickback. So for someone like us, a personal trip like this, tailored to our interests, is a good value. I always walk away from these type of experiences feeling like I met a friend.

 

Tomorrow I'll be on a more typical cruise excursion with Autoprogreso, another company also mentioned on this board. We'll be going to Uxmal. I'll also have a chance to check out Progreso and some of the beach bars near the pier. Stay tuned, and if you have any questions, feel free to ask.

Edited September 16, 2013 by Cruise Critic Chris

[JerseyshoreBruce]

Thanks i just contacted Lawson's about2 possible excursions and he already got back to me

[Cruise Critic Chris]

@JerseyshoreBruce, great! I'm glad I gave you some ideas.

 

Today proved that not everything goes as planned. I showed up at Autoprogreso, and they told me that not enough people had signed up for the Uxmal excursion. I could hop on the Chichen Itza trip instead for $49. While I had been to Chichen Itza before, it had been 20 or so years. So I figured, why not.

 

Nine of us were placed in an air-conditioned van. Six people had come from Carnival Triumph and there was also a Mexican couple, taking a vacation (it's a long weekend here in Mexico because of Independence Day). Our guide, Manual, told us that it would be about a 90 minute drive out there. I'd say it was more like 2 hours.

 

When we arrived at the site, our guide took care of the admission tickets; we were told to buy our own water and snacks. The bus with the ship's excursion pulled up after us, so we beat them there, even though we left later (around 8:50 a.m.) Chichen Itza is the Yucatan's most famous Mayan site, so it was crowded with groups. Our guide kept us close and spent about an hour explaining the pyramids, the ball court, the Mayan Gods and such.

 

Is Chichen Itza worth all that time in a van or bus to get there? I'd say yes, especially if you haven't seen Mayan ruins before. I had forgotten how much of the original sculpture remains. Unlike Mayapan (where I had been the day before), you can make out the jaguars, eagles, serpents, skulls and such. You can't climb the pyramid anymore (like I did 20 years ago), but it's still impressive and photo worthy.

 

One thing: Our guide tried to steer us toward going to a cenote for an extra cost. I didn't say anything, but I'm glad my group opted to spend more time at the site instead. Manual was adamant that we needed to leave by 1 p.m. to make it back to the ship (embarkment was at 3:30). If the group would have added the cenote, we would have been extremely rushed.

 

As it was, everyone had about 45 minutes on their own to walk around at their own speed, take photos and check out the vendors. On the way back, everyone seemed pleased with their experience. In particular, passengers were happy that they had been placed in a smaller group where they could get all their questions answered.

 

They also appreciated the price: The Autoprogreso tour cost a little more than half of what the ship charged (one man showed me the list of Carnival excursions and Chichen Itza was listed as $79.95 per person). The company has the contract to drive cruise passengers along the pier, and I'm sure it's very rare that they miss the ship.

 

If you do take this tour, don't expect a lot of time in Progreso itself. I bid the group goodbye at the bus terminal and walked up to the Melacon. Some of the women who give massages were packing up, but one told me that she'd do 30 minutes for $10. Sold! I'm a spa addict, and thought this one was well worth that little amount of money.

 

I ended my day in Progreso with a late lunch/early dinner at Eladio's, which is right there next to Corona beach. I had coachinita pibel, two Modelo lights and chips for about $10. Another bargain meal.

 

From the same terminal where the tours depart, I took the regular bus back into Merida. It cost 16 pesos - about $1.50 - and dropped me off about two blocks from Plaza Grande. If you're the type of traveler who doesn't need handholding, this is an easy and efficient way to get into Merida on your own.

 

My few days in this area made me realize that there are a lot of things to do near Progreso, if you are open minded and enjoy history/archaeology. It's not the picture-perfect white sand beach that you'd find in Cozumel. So if that's what you're expecting, you'll be disappointed. If excursions aren't your thing, make a point to go into Merida for lunch and check out the gorgeous colonial architecture. You don't see that on other areas of the Yucatan (Campeche excepted), and it's a lovely side of Mexico.

 

Tomorrow I head down to Costa Maya, and I'll be posting in that forum. Please let me know if you have any questions.

[Cruise Critic Chris]

My sister and I are taking our Mom in November and she now must use a walker. Any activities that would be accessible yet still give her a feel for the City would be nice. Wondering about tours thru ships if they use vans, buses, etc.

 

@PSkinner, I've been thinking of your situation the last few days. The streets in Merida are slightly uneven, with steep sidewalks. So if you came into the city, your mother would have to watch out where she is walking. One option is to take one of the horse-drawn carriage tours to look at the architecture. Besides being quite picturesque, the animals appear to look healthy, too.

 

I'm sure that most ship excursions use larger buses, especially if it's one of the more popular ones like Chichen Itza. While that site has a nice visitors center, you still have to walk out on the grass to see the pyramids and tour around. Not sure if that would be too much for your mum. I'd ask the concierage on the ship for their recommendations.

 

I guess if I was in your situation, I'd talk to an independent operator and ask them what kind of day they could plan for me, given your mum's needs. Yes, it might be a little more expensive than a ship tour (although the Carnival tours aren't cheap!). But at least you wouldn't have to worry about what your mum can and can't do. Sorry I can't be more help.

[Cruise Critic Chris]

Trying to decide between kayaking, dune buggies or ATV (Carnival); so any feedback on any of those would be appreciated!! This is usually a port I stay on the ship, would like to get more out of the stop this time. Thanks!!

 

@tkportersat - My ruin excursions took up more of my time, so I didn't get to do any of the activities that you mentioned (although I will be doing them down in Costa Maya). I do know that Progreso isn't as white-sand-perfect as the beaches on the Caribbean coast, such as Cozumel. So if you're looking for that, you might be disappointed.

 

That being said, this could be a great place to kayak, with all the mangrove forests. I found a blog post from someone who went there that might help you make a decision: http://chelseabancroft.wordpress.com/2013/02/20/progreso-mx-cruising-the-mangroves/. Sorry I can't give you more information.

[tkportersat]

That's ok, thanks. We are going to try the Jaguar truck where we can bicycle, see ruins, paddle board, beach and lunch. Sounds fun :)

 

 

[quote name=Cruise Critic

 

Chris]@tkportersat - My ruin excursions took up more of my time, so I didn't get to do any of the activities that you mentioned (although I will be doing them down in Costa Maya). I do know that Progreso isn't as white-sand-perfect as the beaches on the Caribbean coast, such as Cozumel. So if you're looking for that, you might be disappointed.

 

That being said, this could be a great place to kayak, with all the mangrove forests. I found a blog post from someone who went there that might help you make a decision: http://chelseabancroft.wordpress.com/2013/02/20/progreso-mx-cruising-the-mangroves/. Sorry I can't give you more information.

[Cruise Critic Chris]

That's ok, thanks. We are going to try the Jaguar truck where we can bicycle, see ruins, paddle board, beach and lunch. Sounds fun :)

 

That definitely sounds fun! I think that's a newer excursion too. Someone else on this board was asking about it. Be sure to report back once you take your trip!

[NautiDremz]

Me and my three adult daughters booked a private tour with Lawson's and had a great day!!! We came by way of Carnival Triumph to Porte Progreso. The tour guide met us at the Auto Progreso Bus Station. We drove through Merida to view and take photos at Yaxcopoil Hacienda, took taxi rides in Uman, explored the ruins of Uxmal and cooled off with a nice swim in Peba cenote. We toped the day off by eating at Flamingos on the beach in Progreso. I got to try all the Yucatan dishes I had looked forward to-sopa de lima or lime and chicken soup was my favorite. Our guide was passionate about his Mayan heritage and acted as a buffer against some of the people who may have taken advantage of us had we been alone. The cost of the excursion was $114 each but included everything but our meal. The meal was kind of expensive as we tried everything we wanted to and I was a little shocked to get a bill for $903 (pesos). Which was about $65 American. I highly recommend looking into taking an excursion with Lawson's Yucatan.

Read more on our excursion on my public FB notes.

https://www.facebook.com/teresa.whitten.7

Edited September 17, 2013 by NautiDremz

[tkportersat]

Will do :) Yes it is fairly new, everything I have seen about it so far looks good. Enjoyed your review on the cenotes, would definitely like to check that out if we go back to Progreso at a later date.

 

That definitely sounds fun! I think that's a newer excursion too. Someone else on this board was asking about it. Be sure to report back once you take your trip!

[JerseyshoreBruce]

i just booked with autoprogreso cause of the possible bad weather next week scared me to spend much more.....it was a good price....will try William Lawson next year.

[Cruise Critic Chris]

Makes perfect sense to me. I found our Autoprogreso guide to be pretty good, and people on my tour were satisfied. Report back and let us know how it went! Hopefully the weather will change....a little too much rain here in Mexico.

 

i just booked with autoprogreso cause of the possible bad weather next week scared me to spend much more.....it was a good price....will try William Lawson next year.

[JerseyshoreBruce]

Makes perfect sense to me. I found our Autoprogreso guide to be pretty good, and people on my tour were satisfied. Report back and let us know how it went! Hopefully the weather will change....a little too much rain here in Mexico.

 

I will definitely report back! Thanks for your help by doing what you do :)

[Magic City Cruiser]

Chris, Autoprogresso and Carnival have similar "Hop on and Hop off" bus tours to Merida. Of course, Carnival is less expensive. The only reason I would use Carnival in Progreso/Merida is a fear of not getting back to the ship on time. I haven't talked to Carnival yet but since it's a self guided tour as such, I don't know what they would do if we're late to the ship because a bus broke down or such. All that said, it seems you feel pretty comfortable taking the local bus into Merida and back? I have a passport and after several years of sailing to this location, I've pretty much decided if I miss the boat, I'll just have an extended vacation...;)...however, my husband who will not be on this trip isn't happy about me going to Merida on the bus. Can you comment?

[Cruise Critic Chris]

it seems you feel pretty comfortable taking the local bus into Merida and back? I have a passport and after several years of sailing to this location, I've pretty much decided if I miss the boat, I'll just have an extended vacation...;)...however, my husband who will not be on this trip isn't happy about me going to Merida on the bus. Can you comment?

 

I did feel very comfortable on the regular, local bus. It costs 16 pesos (about $1.50), takes about 30 minutes and leaves Progreso from the same AutoProgreso terminal that their tour buses use. The drop off point in Merida is about 1-2 blocks off the Plaza Grande. I only took it one way, from Progreso to Merida, because I was staying in town.

 

That being said, I'm a fairly adventurous traveler and usually have no trouble getting around, even when I don't speak the language. I also don't have problems traveling by myself (I was a newspaper reporter for 15 years before coming to CC). Everyone has their own perception of what feels safe and what doesn't. I learned a long time ago not to lecture people about that!

[Cruise Critic Chris]

My "official" wrap-up on the Lido Deck blog:

 

http://www.cruisecritic.com/blog/index.php/2013/09/19/pondering-progreso-5-things-to-love/

[Magic City Cruiser]

That being said, I'm a fairly adventurous traveler and usually have no trouble getting around, even when I don't speak the language. I also don't have problems traveling by myself (I was a newspaper reporter for 15 years before coming to CC). Everyone has their own perception of what feels safe and what doesn't. I learned a long time ago not to lecture people about that!

 

Thanks, Chris. While I'm a cautious traveler ( I don't get out much :D) by "safe" in this instance I mean "Will the bus break down and we'll sit on the side of the road for two hours"? My main concern is that I get back on the ship on time!

[Cruise Critic Chris]

Thanks, Chris. While I'm a cautious traveler ( I don't get out much :D) by "safe" in this instance I mean "Will the bus break down and we'll sit on the side of the road for two hours"? My main concern is that I get back on the ship on time!

 

Ah, gotcha! In that case, you are good to go. The route between Progreso and Merida runs through "civilization" - in fact, you'll pass American companies such as Walmart and the new Mayan museum. In the odd case that the bus would break down, Autoprogreso is a major provider and would be able to send a new vehicle, stat. Or you would be able to catch a cab. HTH!

[Magic City Cruiser]

Ah, gotcha! In that case, you are good to go. The route between Progreso and Merida runs through "civilization" - in fact, you'll pass American companies such as Walmart and the new Mayan museum. In the odd case that the bus would break down, Autoprogreso is a major provider and would be able to send a new vehicle, stat. Or you would be able to catch a cab. HTH!

 

Many thanks, Chris! Definitely gonna save the $ and take the Autoprogreso tour! We're looking forward to kicking back and exploring a bit in Merida!

[JerseyshoreBruce]

Hi Chris......reporting back as i stated i would.....Autoprogreso Tour to Xcambo Ruins and Technotel was great.......they even stopped at Technotel first and dropped people off that didn't want to see the ruins. Great company and our tour guide was Mario Lopez.....excellent guy. They had us back in plenty of time to still shop at the port....Technotel chefs...cooks...and foodservers all wore surgical mask and gloves so no germs would be spread. Food was ok and only a few type beers offered in included price but still a good bargain for the price paid. Water in Progreso is not great in my opinion but never has been in previous trips. All around i highly recommend Autoprogreso and Mario Lopez of course!

[3dogsrule]

Chris (or others),

 

I know the US dollar is accepted everywhere in Progreso, but what about in Merida? I'm planning to go there in December and do some shopping and have lunch, but didn't know if I should come equipped with pesos, if nothing else to make transactions easier (only Spanish I know will get me a beer and a bathroom, that's about it).

 

Also, any tips on safe/good places for lunch in the main areas are welcomed! I'll be travelling alone so I probably won't go too far off the beaten path. Is much/any English spoken in Merida?

 

Thanks for any tips!