Long Review: 9/9/13 - Reflection 11 Day Eastern Med plus Rome

[Mel&Ken]

 

 

[Mel&Ken]

Following Sophia we walked across the street to see the underground Cisterns. These were underground reservoirs that were actually forgotten about for decades only to be rediscovered by a farmer. It was unbelievable to see how huge it was and how ornate the columns and arches were. It turns out there were so many destroyed churches, temples, palaces etc. in Istanbul that they just used old parts to build new projects – so everything is recycled which is very interesting.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We stopped at a café for a quick tea and snack – the snack was what we would call a grilled cheese sandwich!

[Mel&Ken]

Next was the Blue Mosque. Sadly we opted to not go inside. The line snaked around the building and we would have waited 1-2 hours just to get in. The one time our guide can’t help us!!! Friday’s are the worst days to be a visitor in Istanbul if this is on your list as tours are planned around the prayers on this day. So as it is normally very busy – Fridays are crazy busy.

 

 

Claire brought us to a different mosque instead and while I don’t recall the name, it had just been fully refurbished and was stunning. I am not sure what I expected but I was surprised to see it was just a big empty room – no benches, pews or chairs as the men kneel on the floor for prayer. The women are in a separate room which was tiny in comparison. We learned that this is because women are not required to attend mosque and therefore rarely do. Weddings and funerals are not held in a mosque so many Muslims go their entire lives without ever being inside one. Fascinating!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Mel&Ken]

We then walked through the grand bazaar and spice market – both of which I was really looking forward to. I had crazy ideas of shopping and bartering but once I was there all I wanted to do was get out. SO pushy and you don’t dare stop to look or the hard sell starts. I didn’t enjoy it all and once Claire advised that very little of it was even made in Turkey I was happy to leave.

 

 

 

 

 

Finally we ended our tour by following Claire home to the Asian side of Istanbul – this is where most of the population lives. They live here and take the ferry to work on the European side. We wanted to come over here as Katie said this is the best spot for spices and dinner and it is much less touristy. She was right – suddenly communication got harder as few people spoke English, tourists were replaced with families returning from work and starting their weekends – it’s a whole different vibe over there and we loved it. We said good night to Claire and then hit some shops where I bought tons of spices and Ken got his pistachios before we stopped to eat at a restaurant called Ciya.

 

[Mel&Ken]

At Ciya we somehow managed to order some bread with cheese and hummus (best I have EVER tasted) and then kebabs. I had lamb and tomato and Ken had beef with pistachio. Both were incredibly flavourful and we were really happy with our choice to come here for dinner. We ended with Turkish tea and our bill was about 32 Lira.

 

 

 

 

 

 

We walked back to the pier to catch the ferry to Europe and back to our ship when things got interesting. There had been some protests the night before so now bus loads of police in riot gear were being shipped to the square. We saw tanks, police dogs and just hundreds of officers all prepping for another protest. Ken was happy to board our ferry and get out of there. From the ferry it was a 15 minute walk along the water to our ship and we felt completely safe the entire time.

 

[Mel&Ken]

 

The sun setting as we crossed on the ferry....

 

 

 

 

 

[Mel&Ken]

Sorry....MORE sunset pictures!

 

 

 

 

 

 

We decided to stay in our room for the rest of the night as it had been a 12 hour day and we were exhausted. We also had an early start to finish Istanbul tomorrow morning.

 

Impressions of Istanbul – historically fascinating, crazy crowds and masses of people and a lovely blend of cultures from all over. We were not disappointed!

[Mel&Ken]

Today I am awakened by the sound of prayers coming from the mosques. They are mesmerizing as they cut through the tail end of darkness. Long ago I had booked a half day excursion with the ship for a river cruise and trip to the spice market which I now regret as we really did both in some sort of way yesterday. It also doesn’t help that we wake up to rain. As the alternative is shopping, Ken is quick to get us on our way!

 

One issue with any excursion is that you never know who you will end up spending the day with. This will be my second encounter with members of the Abraham Hicks group. Due to the rain we sit inside for the river cruise and at the table behind us there is a group of about 6 women. They are laughing and enjoying each other’s company and you can tell that they have just met on this cruise through the AH group and have become instant friends. Well as they talk I begin to hear things I find very disturbing. One pointed out how instead of calling them Turks she just calls them Turds as they are such dirty people. I’ll stop there as you get the idea, but it just got worse and worse and all I kept thinking besides the basic disgust was how can you belong to this group and profess positive energy and then be so blatantly ignorant and rude towards other cultures? It was really a terrible 90 minutes and I couldn’t wait to get away from them and their insults.

 

 

 

 

[Mel&Ken]

 

 

[DianeCcruiser]

Really enjoying your review and beautiful pictures. We will be on the same cruise next May as a b2b after our transatlantic cruise.

Very informative and interesting, thank you.

Diane

[parisbully]

Loving this. Thank you so much for sharing. Hope you are also writing this in a sort of blog form. So to access wouldn't need to go on cc. Are you a professional writer? We travel a lot and if only I could write like you.

[lovestx]

Thanks for continuing this great trip report. You certainly crammed a lot in to your first day in Istanbul.

 

For others planning their future trips to Istanbul, I would take great care in selecting a private tour guide that will time your visits to different spots with an eye towards avoiding as many lines as possible. And take advantage of your two days in Istanbul to get early starts to the places that notoriously have the longest lines (Blue Mosque and Topkapi Palace, I believe).

 

While I would have liked to have taken a boat tour between the European and Asian side, I am glad that we save the Topkapi Palace for our second morning so that we could get there early before the crowds and visit the Treasury there (amazing!) before the lines got big.

 

Thanks, too, Mel for sharing your impressions of the bazaars and the hard sell that you find there. I concluded after our trip that I am just not that comfortable with haggling (also had to do it when buying jewelry in Ephesus). I am glad that we visited Istanbul as it is just so different and interesting from our world in North America. But I don't feel a great need to go back on a land-based tour (though I'd love to see Cappodocia someday!).

[Mel&Ken]

Thanks for continuing this great trip report. You certainly crammed a lot in to your first day in Istanbul.

 

For others planning their future trips to Istanbul, I would take great care in selecting a private tour guide that will time your visits to different spots with an eye towards avoiding as many lines as possible. And take advantage of your two days in Istanbul to get early starts to the places that notoriously have the longest lines (Blue Mosque and Topkapi Palace, I believe).

 

While I would have liked to have taken a boat tour between the European and Asian side, I am glad that we save the Topkapi Palace for our second morning so that we could get there early before the crowds and visit the Treasury there (amazing!) before the lines got big.

 

Thanks, too, Mel for sharing your impressions of the bazaars and the hard sell that you find there. I concluded after our trip that I am just not that comfortable with haggling (also had to do it when buying jewelry in Ephesus). I am glad that we visited Istanbul as it is just so different and interesting from our world in North America. But I don't feel a great need to go back on a land-based tour (though I'd love to see Cappodocia someday!).

 

In the interest of being fair to our guide - it was our decision to put the Blue Mosque lower on our priority list, not a result of her poor timing. As you said there are so many things to do and each person has things that are more important to see than others. We chose to plan the day in the most convenient and time friendly geographic pattern. So literally we'd leave one site and be within steps of the next. Having zigzag'd through our share of cities we didn't want to spend our time travelling back and forth to sites. This is also why the Chora Church didn't make the cut which was sad.

 

We were at the Palace by 10am and as I mentioned, with a guide you skip the lines to get in the palace itself and the individual buildings such as the treasury etc. I'd say we were there a total of two hours and it was pretty much just busy all the time - all of Istanbul is! One thing about this city - you feel the volume of people unlike most cities I have been to.

 

Haggling at the bazaar.....I don't mind that part as much but I can't even decide what to haggle for. If I even glance at a scarf the next thing you know its wrapped around my neck and they want to know what I am looking for, what colour I want etc. Very annoying to me. It really got to a point where I avoided looking at stuff I was truly interested in becasue I didn't feel like fighting the sales person off. Glad to hear it's not just me. ;)

 

For those planning now, LOVESTX and I are perfect examples of how different things are are priorities to different people. My advice is to look through books or on sites and literally write down everything that sounds or looks good to you. Then put them in a list of what is a MUST see and what is a HOPE to see. Start planning like that. There is a good chance you won't see it all. Some things may be too far or take too long for your plan or the day/time may not work well. Then you or your guide can take your list and work into your time in Istanbul. Asia was high on our list - we were just fascinated by a city on two continents and we were glad we went.

[lovestx]

Couldn't agree more, Mel, with the importance of pre-planning so that you have a list of Must See's. And then be ready to be flexible. I regret that we didn't get to the Spice Bazaar.

 

And we all need to factor in our groups. Mine included my two teens so pacing and not overloading were also important factors to consider.

 

These sites are so incredibly helpful for planning either cruises or land-based trips. We have toured/vacation so much more pleasantly and efficiently thanks to CC and Tripadvisor!

[Mel&Ken]

Once we disembarked the river cruise we walked back over to our bus. We passed a park and there were a few families there with what looked to be all their belongings and they were huddled in the light rain around a fire. Our tour guide was quick to let us know that these are not homeless Turkish people but in fact families that have just escaped Syria with what ever they could carry. The children were laughing and playing and it was sad to know that this would be their home for who knows how long.

 

Now begins the bus ride from hell!!! We literally travelled only blocks to the spice market but it was one inch at a time and painfully slow. The bus was very warm and all I wanted to do was get off and walk there. Our guide said walking would involve crossing the street which was too dangerous. Not sure how she though we navigated the city the day before.

 

Finally we got to the market which I had not enjoyed the day before. Today was a bit better. To start I had already bought all the items on my wish list over in Asia so I felt no pressure today. Also I dare say it seems to be less crowded today. So I did find a stall with helpful (not pushy) staff and I bought a few types of tea, some more spices and a set of the tea glasses. Then I haggled for 4 ceramic trivets which are all lost now I am sad to say. :(

 

We spent about an hour here before meeting outside at the designated area. We had to wait and wait while the guide kept trying to do a head count. Well it turns out people from our group could see us so they grabbed food and went over to eat on benches which threw the guide off as she couldn't see them. So we headed back to the bus later than expected.

 

We walked quite a ways back to the bus and miraculously crossed the street without being killed! :p Once on board we were told as it's taken so long in traffic today we won't have time to stop at the jewelery store now, oh darn! :rolleyes:

 

Istanbul had just found out the day before they lost out on hosting the Olympics. Our guide told us that it's because of all this traffic. I found that funny - its not the nightly protests with police in riot gear or the fact that Syria is threatening to bomb Turkey - it's traffic.

 

We inched our way back to the ship and boarded after noon which was cutting it close as we pulled away at 1pm. We grabbed a plate of food from the grill and enjoyed the sailaway from our balcony.

 

I think at some point we'll see this city again. I feel like we saw a lot and it's not like when we first went to Paris or Rome and urgently felt the need to go back. This is a city that I know has so much more to see and do and who knows - it may just happen some day on another cruise in the area.

[Mel&Ken]

Loving this. Thank you so much for sharing. Hope you are also writing this in a sort of blog form. So to access wouldn't need to go on cc. Are you a professional writer? We travel a lot and if only I could write like you.

 

I am so glad you're enjoying this review. It's funny you should ask about a blog as I don't currently have one but one of my staff just asked when she would get to see pictures from our dining experiences in Vegas this weekend and she suggested a blog as well.

 

Up until now we have only used a Shutterfly Share Site for family/friends on our two trips to Europe. We end up with a pretty good following and we love having it as a diary of sorts. So I think after this review I will look at setting up a blog to chronicle our trips, dining experiences, cooking (we both love to cook), golf trips etc. At least then it will be all in one place.

 

I doubt we'll have many followers aside from family/friends but that's certainly not why we'd do it.

[BABA 7]

Thanks for the great pics...will be heading there next year and doing a land tour for three weeks!:D

[Mel&Ken]

Today is the ancient Roman ruins at Ephesus in Turkey. Interestingly enough, another port city of the Roman Empire that died off as the coastline changed and the sea no longer reached the port. There was also an earthquake and a tsunami involved in the destruction of this city.

 

We opted for a short ship’s tour today - just 4 hours with a historian to tour the site and that's it - no lunch or full day - just the highlights and then back on board. In our planning we thought today we’d be getting tired and run down a bit and we were right!

 

Our day didn’t start well. We needed to be ready for 10:30 and we actually set an alarm for 9am just in case we slept in. I woke up first and I was happy that I felt rested and not rushed. Ken woke up and we were just lounging in bed talking about the day and what our plan was. I looked over at my phone to see how much extra time we had and it was 9:45!!! Not only had we slept late, the alarm did not go off and we now have 45 minutes to get ready, eat breakfast and be out at the meeting place.

 

A crazy morning ensued and we made it on time. Now for issue number two. I should mention that for the last 2-3 days Ken has had this sexy, husky voice going on. He claimed that he did not have a sore throat like a cold but just a scratchy throat. Well last night he finally admitted it was like a cold but just not progressing. I was upset as we've been sharing water and the last thing we (read I) need is to be is sick.

 

As we board the bus my nose begins to run. First with a small sniffle and finally a full blown runny nose to the point I have to keep a tissue there almost constantly. What a terrible way to see ruins. I spend the day looking around with a Kleenex to my face, my eyes watering and just feeling like a mess.

 

We start with the outdoor areas and I almost wipe out on marble twice which makes me nervous. It’s hot and crowded but just fascinating. I know some people get overloaded on ruins but they really never fail to amaze me.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Can you see the Nike symbol in this last pic???

 

 

[Mel&Ken]

 

 

 

 

[Mel&Ken]

Next we reach the terrace houses which thankfully are covered and we tour them with an archeologist who actually worked on digging up the site which should have been fascinating. However just as we started our tour we had an “incident” within our group. An older woman in her 70s pretty much fainted and had to be helped to the ground. So here she is sitting on the ground, people are rushing to her aid and the historian just keeps on talking. Even to the point where he walks to the next room and the majority of the group follows while a few of us stay back to see what we can do. Personally I think this was very unprofessional – we had just started and our bus guide is sitting outside. He could have easily walked this woman out to her to be given attention or least put back on the bus and then resumed the tour. Instead, the woman forced herself to keep going and I was really worried and kept watching back for her to see if she was ok. It must have been so incredible to hear his stories of what he found and how he found it but I found myself very distracted on the tour as I was more concerned about the woman. Take away that and my nose which is a mess and it would have been the perfect day, If we make it back to Ephesus I will for sure do the Terrace Houses again as I know I missed a ton of information.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Mel&Ken]

 

 

 

 

 

[Mel&Ken]

We exit the terrace houses to see the library which is the main attraction I would say. Sadly by now my eyes and my nose are watering and I can barely see. I hide in the shade with the cats while Ken takes all the photos. We then head down the marble road to the theatre before getting back on the bus.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Mel&Ken]

 

 

 

 

 

[Mel&Ken]

Our bus drops us at a carpet weaving store which was actually pretty cool but all I want is to get back to the ship and take an antihistamine. I am feeling worse by the minute.

 

We look a few stalls on the way to the ship. My souvenir shopping is not going well. I now refuse to buy stuff that is not locally made which actually makes it VERY hard. Things I would have bought before are not even made in Turkey so why bother.

 

We get back on board and I head straight to the medical lab for a pill and then we grabbed a late lunch at the grill and laid down for the nap. My pill kicks in and by dinner my nose has finally stopped running. I feel about 75% and I hope we both are not going to be sick. We are at the busiest part of our cruise with a port every day so we need to feel our best.

 

Dinner in the MDR:

 

Tuna Tartar

 

 

 

 

 

Yummy Gumbo! Asked our server to save me a bowl for the next night - didn't happen!

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Mel&Ken]

Today is our second island of Greece - Mykonos. This is the day Ken requested to be a beach day. No tours, no ruins, NO shopping, just a relaxing beach. Now you don’t know this about me but this is about the worst kind of day for me. I hate being in a bathing suit, I despise sand anywhere on my body including my feet and I can’t be in the sun more than ten minutes without burning. But…..as Ken is the most accommodating and easy going person I know – this is the least I can do for him.

 

Now begins the search for which beach. The more I read the more I was uncomfortable. Some were described as party beaches with loud music, tons of drinking and really a club like feeling – not for us. Then there were the family beaches with little kids running around – no thank you. I even came across one that was described as a fashion show with full hair/makeup as people strutted their stuff – pass! Finally I read about St.John’s resort on the island and they offered day passes to cruise guests. It wasn’t cheap at 70 Euros but I can say now that we would do it again in a second.

 

The resort picked us up at the ship at 9am and drove us to the resort. Mykonos really has nothing - they do not grow anything, there are no big sights to see - this island is known for the beaches and the night clubs. This is where people come to party.

 

The resort was about 15 minutes from the ship and it was spectacular. We walked in the lobby and immediately extended our stay by an hour. Our package included breakfast and lunch but we ate on the ship so we just went and found our lounge chairs by the infinity pool - largest on the island so they said.

 

For anyone booking this day pass feel free to sleep in for at least an hour as we were the only ones there....then the guests began to wake up and come down for breakfast. Most saved a chair while they went to eat - no different than every other resort.

 

And that is it....we lounged all day. We swam and napped and people watched. The original plan was part of the day at the pool and part down at the private beach area but we enjoyed the pool so much we stayed put. I think Ken walked down to at least say his toes were in the Med but that was it.