Costa Rica - Another Perspective

[dupontcruiser]

Just returned from 7 Day on SD1, was on cruise just after Jim A, thought I'd add my views for comparison purposes.

 

We stayed at InterContinental San Jose before and after, very nicely situated relative to airport and downtown, great property with 4 restaurants and 3 pools.

 

Our itinerary was Costa Rica north to Nicaragua. This is truly a working port and SD 1 was tied up behind a very large container ship with active offloading in progress. Interesting to watch but not so fun to walk around and listen to until the ship departed. We arrived around 1:15 and were allowed to board at 1:45 so getting there early can make a difference sometimes. We were first on board and first to sit at the TOYBar:D. We were in 214 which was fine, really not a big deal to have the port holes instead of window. Antonette took care of us, very friendly and helpful, always kept the place picked up (even if we left it a mess :eek:). Nice local dance group came on board to give us a show on the pool deck and then we were off.

 

We requested the bed up front on deck for the first night (we emailed ahead with the request and were happy to know ship had received and had it all planned for us!). It was a lovely night out, the stars, and a nice breeze since we were moving all night. A recommendation is to select the bed on a night when you know the ship will be leaving port early and arriving late or at sea next day which means you are guaranteed a breeze all night and also won't be disturbed by raising/lowering of anchor). We slept out until sunrise when rain threatened.

 

We took most of our breakfasts up at the TOYBar and Brian was there every day, already knew what we wanted and was very helpful in anticipating anything we could want. In the afternoon of our first day, the captain (newly with SD, Capt Remi, great guy), found a nice spot to anchor and let us do some swimming which was nice. We stayed anchored until after dinner which was also nice (although it was pretty calm the entire trip). We ate dinner outside every night but one and were fine except for the last night which was warm since we were at anchor and there was no breeze. Dinner was superb (no surprise there!).

 

Next day, we arrived at San Juan del Sur and took a full day trip to the Mombacho volcano. We got to stop at Lake Nicaragua, at a coffee plantation, and then a nice walk around the crater with wonderful views. It was foggy at first but it all burned off and was very cool and pleasant. We then went into Granada for a good lunch. Our only complaint was that the drive to Granada, the slow food service at the restaurant, and the very short time in Granada felt like we could have done more on our own (do our own lunch and walk around). As it was, we didn't arrive back to the ship until after 6 PM. Our impression of Nicaragua is much like others description of Costa Rica but worse. Very poor, homes made of boards, sheet metal, etc. People on the streets were very aggressive in trying to sell their trinkets.

The next two days we were anchored off of Playa del Coco and Playa Flamingo and we did not leave the ship at either stop (everything was too perfect on board :) Some friends did grab lunch at Playa del Coco (Lizard Bar??) and enjoyed it very much and others who took various tours also seemed to enjoy. While off of Playa Flamingo, we discovered a water leak coming from the bathroom and reported it. Not sure where it was coming from but lets just say it turned out not to be clean water :eek: and it did smell. Next thing we know, the head of housekeeping (sorry, didn't get her name) was pulling my wife aside at lunch to tell her they were moving us to 305. We told them this wasn't necessary, didn't want to pack up, etc. but they had already done it. And I mean, moved every thing and put it exactly where it was before into the new cabin. Really amazing that they moved every item from every drawer (not the safe though) and knew/remembered where to put it in the new cabin. We were floored!!! Simply amazing. And, our stewardess stayed with us even though we moved up a deck. Had a wonderful massage, probably one of the best in a long time.

 

Thursday we were off of Quepos and we took the tour of Manuel Antonio park. We were glad and lucky that the tour got moved from PM to AM. Much less crowded and much cooler. The guide really makes all the difference, saw sloths, monkey's, lots of different lizards, deer, bugs, etc. (but no toucans or parrots. We did not fully understand that at the end we'd have time to swim at a nice beach so we just hung around and watched the raccoons try to steal people's bags. We had been warned that they are super aggressive and they were right. Not mean or scary, they just walk right up and try to start digging thru your things looking for food. On the way out, we walked thru part of the town and enjoyed some time at another beach.

 

This was our first time on the ground in Costa Rica and unlike another post, I really did not see any issues with poverty, crime, or risk. Unlike with Nicaragua, places here were more substantial, there were way less/no homeless looking people about and those who were selling items were much more polite about asking but not pushing things on us.

 

A word about the marina - it was down almost every day of the trip which was wonderful. Only at Quepos were the swells too much to allow it to be lowered. This was also the only real warm day and with only a slight breeze, the ship tended to be turned side on to the swells which would either rock you to sleep like a baby (in my case) or upset some stomachs of those who were not as accustomed to the movement. Almost every day we had an AM swim, PM watercraft, and then late PM swim so was really enjoyable to stay on board and take advantage.

 

The last day was the obligatory champagne splash at Tortuga Island. It was a very picturesque location but it was public and thus was shared with others. Never felt overcrowded but didn't feel like we had the place as much to our own as in the Caribbean. The surf was a little rougher and certainly the sand was not as soft but the idea was the same and still very enjoyable. Many of us took advantage of the banana boat which, unfortunately, took advantage of us (bruises, cracked ribs, etc.) - I guess you really do have to pay attention to that part about drinking and using these things.

 

Disembarkation was so much more relaxed that in St. Thomas and elsewhere. Luggage was offloaded soon after docking at 8 and we were welcome to depart any time between 8:30 and 10 AM! How nice to be able to enjoy one last breakfast and morning before leaving. We had arranged a tour after we left, heading thru coffee country and on to Poas Volcano. Again, we went thru many towns, all were fine looking to us, and the roads seemed fine or better than expected. I will note that the vehicle we were in for this trip was nicer with better shocks than the one that took us to the port. I believe some of the rough rides experienced may be based on the type of vehicle used. Of course, as we got farther into the mountains, things did get a little rougher but in the main towns and major roads around Costa Rica, we were very pleasantly surprised at how smooth things are. The homes do have high metal fencing (I believe and our guide confirmed that some of this is due to spanish design influence, some is to provide some privacy and safety for family as homes are right up against the road, and some is for security) and some do have barbed wire but it was nothing like the poverty we had seen north of the border or in third world countries such as the Philippines (I was there last month for 2 weeks so have very fresh memory of that visit). It was raining heavily when we arrived at the volcano so we skipped the 30 minute hike from the parking lot and went with post cards instead (if you take a pic of them just right, you can make it look like you were really there:D

 

We also visited the town of Sarchi, very nice. This is where they make the famous ox carts and the shop and store was a great place to visit and buy some unique souvenirs. Then, it was back to the IC for cocktails and dinner and a flight out the next day.

 

My DW and I were very happy to have taken this trip since it's a part of the world we had always wanted to see. No regrets at all. This was a great way to see some things, get a taste of several different areas, but not get overloaded or stuck in one particular area. I doubt we'd return, there are other places to explore and nicer beaches but definitely glad the itinerary was offered. BTW - we had 95 passengers and 94 crew (and still operating on one engine:eek:

 

A final word about SeaDream. We had made the decision to switch to Seabourn a few years back, sailed twice on the Legend (one of the smaller triplets). The ships and the staterooms are slightly bigger but the service is nowhere close. We had forgotten how much the service makes up for a ship that is slightly on the aging side of things (SD 1 will be 30 years old in 2014). There were so many wonderful crew members that it is hard to remember them all but here are a few in no particular order: Pierre, Doramus, Brian, Eugene, Ann, Brenda, Francisco, Capt Remi, Antonette, Joe, Enes. We are sold on small ships and after this trip, are back with SD for good.

[knotheadusc]

Thanks for the excellent, detailed review! Sounds like you had a wonderful time! :D

 

Now I want to book again!

[Jim Avery]

Dupontcruiser, thanks for the review. We wanted to do your itinerary as well so just flipped a coin and the Southern route won.:eek: Like Yall we had Costa Rica on the list for years and are glad we went. The roads we took were a bit different than yours I think. We went through Heredia on the outskirts of SJ, Alajuela, then lots of small villages on the way up to Poas and back down to meet the road to Caldera. I love your idea of taking pictures of the postcards.:D We took one of the big picture in the visitors center but I don't think I could pass it off as real. Our guide said (after we had paid for the tour) that the volcano is socked in more days than not. For anyone reading this with the idea of seeing the Poas volcano, be warned, you are just as likely to see nothing but clouds. Quepos just seems to be an exposed anchorage that will produce the rolling of the ship. When we were there it was just as you described it. Captain Eriksen described it as "surge" from the Pacific rather than swells. I was wondering why the relatively small swells visible were producing such rolling. And we also were beam to the seas. Rocked me to sleep too. In the sun.:eek: Still peeling. Great info on booking the Bali Beds. Never gave it much thought but being underway would make all the difference up forward. Most people complain of being hot up there. Next year SeaDream will have both ships back in the Caribbean. They really do that best. Hope that engine issue gets resolved. It will create some issues on future trips and the transatlantic if not fixed by then. Thanks again for taking the time to post. It always makes me feel a bit like I am still there on board.:D

Edited December 17, 2013 by Jim Avery

[dupontcruiser]

Hi Jim,

Interesting info about Quepos. Agree about Poas although another group a few hours behind us had great views - they just had all the luck!

 

BTW - met a shuttle friend of yours - Maxine - on the 2nd half of her B2B, believe you rode together to Caldera? She was fantastic! Also had James Cabello with us and were lucky enough to have him at the piano bar one night. He packed the place!

 

Agree about the engine (I've read it's the crankshaft), they will need to fix before they get back to any longer runs.

 

Hope to see you in the future on an SD trip!

[Jim Avery]

Hi Jim,

Interesting info about Quepos. Agree about Poas although another group a few hours behind us had great views - they just had all the luck!

 

BTW - met a shuttle friend of yours - Maxine - on the 2nd half of her B2B, believe you rode together to Caldera? She was fantastic! Also had James Cabello with us and were lucky enough to have him at the piano bar one night. He packed the place!

 

Agree about the engine (I've read it's the crankshaft), they will need to fix before they get back to any longer runs.

 

Hope to see you in the future on an SD trip!

 

Hope to see you too. Maxine and Dave were great. What interesting stories and lots of fun to travel with. You had Commodore Cabello. What luck. I was hoping he would be on ours. He is the best CAD they ever had and can he put on a show. Darn that coin flip.:eek: We could have been there.:D

[zeronine]

Dupontcruiser, thanks for a great review. I appreciate the info and recommendations that you and JimAvery have shared. A couple of questions:

Would they have let you leave the group in Grenada to have lunch and explore on your own? How many hours of actual drive time on the excursion?

How were the bugs in Manuel Antonio? any biters?

[vandrefalk]

Thanks for such a great review! We were in 211 and also had Antonette -- she is a sweetie! We always request the front bed for when we are underway -- sometimes it can be a bit TOO breezy, but we love it!

 

Sounds as though the temps were a bit cooler on your cruise than on ours!

 

And how lucky to have the Commodore with you! He is a treasure!

 

Vandrefalk

[Zimmy]

zeronine: When we were in Manuel Antonio the only insects we encountered were a group of ants that were biters. They were very near the end of the trail near the beach and the guide pointed them out so we were able to step around them. Its a good idea to wear a shoe that gives you some traction since the dirt trails can get slippery when wet. There was a point at the end where we had to step on rocks to cross some water. I found it easier to just walk through the water, which was only maybe 4 inches deep.

Zimmy's DH

[ctbjr1309]

We are sold on small ships and after this trip, are back with SD for good.

 

About time!

[zeronine]

Thanks for the update zimmys dh. We are finally on the way to San Jose (isn't that a song?)

Will be on the last CR trip before SD 1 returns to the Caribbean.