Academy Award Fashion Buzz

[Jane110]

The nominations were announced yesterday and the "who's dressing who" buzz is all over the fashion trades. "Everyone" has agreed to let the nominee's have one day (today) to bask in the glow of their nominations before trying to contact them tomorrow and start the designer feeding frenzy!

 

For those are are interested in some of the buzz I've read so far (too early for anything real yet), here's a bit of it.....

 

The Paris and Italian fashion show dates are creating a problem with timing and the awards ceremony. The haute couture designers have to get ready for their big showings in Paris and Milan and it's hard then also dressing the celebrities who want personal attention. It also takes away time from their best fitters and sewers who do the alterations for both the shows and the celebrities. So, all the designers have their high level marketing people pampering the celebs and the back rooms at the couture houses, where all the work is done, are preparing for a frenzy!

 

American designers, generally represented by Donna, Ralph and Calvin, don't get as big a play at the awards as the European designers and here in NY on 7th Ave, there's alot of resentment about that. But it seems that the Europeans are more persistant in courting our princesses of the big screen than the American designers are.

 

Donna made the Golden Globe gown for the pregnant Rachael Weisz, but she'll be 7 months pregnant at the AA's, so her gown will have to be custom-made and last minute fittings will be necessary. Lots of speculation on who'll she choose this time around.

 

Valentino did Keira Knightley's gown for the Golden Globes and is hoping to be chosen again for her Academy Awards dress. Also he's hoping to dress Reese Witherspoon, who dumped her fashion stylist after the Golden Globes Chloe embarrassment. Valentino knows her new styling team and hopes to get to her through them.

 

Charlize Theron has had a contract with Dior which recently ended, so there's lots of speculation on which designer she'll wear, but we know it'll be haute couture. She'll never wear an unknown. She's worn Gucci in the past so they're vying for her attention again now that she's out from under Dior.

 

The actresses (and actors) get the clothes for free which then, of course, gives publicity to the designers. Now, many actresses are committing to wearing the European designer originals, have signed contracts and are being paid to wear the clothes as well as appearing in ad campaigns.

 

The clothing designers and Hollywood stylists are not the only ones fighting over who's dressing whom. The accessory people are now in the game in a big way - with handbag, footwear, jewelers and watchmakers also begging the stars to wear their stuff and remember to tell us all what/who they're wearing.

 

The smaller, independant couture designers are having a more difficult time getting through to the actresses as the business of getting the stars into gowns grows into a larger business and creates yet another layer to filter though. So, their best hope is to hitch their wagon to a rising star, who's yet in the spotlight and hope she makes it to the top and remembers their name when the emcee on the Red Carpet asks, "Who are you wearing?"

 

 

Jane

[BlueHerons]

Jane, these are my observations and I'd love to hear your feedback!

 

I think both Lanvin (I just LOVE that quirky Elber Albaz) and Rochas (how do you pronounce it? RO-shaz? Roaches?) are on the move and are coming out from the shadows.

 

Did the Reese Witherspoon dress debaucle hurt Chanel?

 

Thanks for the behind the scenes scoop! I also heard you really have to be an A lister to get a good designer/dress during the Oscars because of the shows!

[Jane110]

Jane, these are my observations and I'd love to hear your feedback!

 

I think both Lanvin (I just LOVE that quirky Elber Albaz) and Rochas (how do you pronounce it? RO-shaz? Roaches?) are on the move and are coming out from the shadows.

 

Absolutely on the move, you're right!

Easiest pronounciation is RO-Haas. But if you want to be really correct, then add a little throat gutter...a bit of a hard 'C'... on the "H"......as in the first sound of Channukah

 

Did the Reese Witherspoon dress debaucle hurt Chanel?

 

Yes and no. It's not going to hurt their sales at the consumer level. But I can't imagine any actress wearing them again at an awards gala anytime soon. It'll be a while before the wounds heal. Can you imagine wearing a Chanel gown, walking on the Red Carpet and having the emcee comment behind your back something like, "Gee, I wonder who wore that gown last week?". Who would let themslves be open for that kind of comment? Also, Reese fired her stylist over this incident. What stylist wants to go to them again for their Hollywood clients?

 

Speaking personally, I'm a big fan of guerilla marketing tactics and my spin would be to get a very self effacing person - someone like a Sandra Bernhardt or other in-your-face comedian - to wear wear a Chanel gown and beat the emcee's at their own game and make all kinds of jokes about almost not getting it back in time to get it cleaned, altered etc. But then, maybe that's why Chanel doesn't hire me to do their marketing! LOL!!!

 

Thanks for the behind the scenes scoop! I also heard you really have to be an A lister to get a good designer/dress during the Oscars because of the shows!

 

Well, anyone that's up for an Academy Award is an A lister. Someone who's merely invited to accompany a star, or sit in the audience, still gets to wear a pricey designer gown for free. Not too shabby. But it's only fair that those who'll be on stage get pick of the litter.

 

The designer's set up salons for about a week in Hollywood hotels where people go and "shop" for their gowns.

[MrsMoose2001]

Jane,thank you I find it all very interesting, but I have to ask what is perhaps a silly question.

 

Since the "mass market" will never buy a haute couture gown, why do the designers feel it so important to get their name out there via the AA?

 

I'm not flameing or disputing anything that you say since I know it's all true, I perhaps just don't get the point, not yours, but the designers?

 

Is it because the knock off companies do a "right away" knock off on the gowns? Because if Chanel, Armani, et al how many of the people watching actually will be able to buy one of their gowns? And the ones who do and can, already are customers for the most part no?

 

Please understand I'm not questioning anything that you wrote, I appreciate all the "upadate" as I would not have even known all that much, my question is why do they go through all that trouble for "mass market" publicity? Accessories, maybe I can see, but the houte couture gowns? Perhaps a silly/stupid question, but if you can explain I would really be interested in knowing since it's a question that's been in the back of my mind for a while now.

 

Thanks much

[Cruise Arizona]

Jane,

 

What is the demographic of poeple who buy couture fashion? Or whom the fashion houses are targeting?

 

 

 

And does a company like Chanel or Valentino have a couture line and a less expensive off the rack line??? For example does Chanel make $5000 dress and $500 dresses?

[BlueHerons]

Jane,

 

What is the demographic of poeple who buy couture fashion? Or whom the fashion houses are targeting?

 

 

 

And does a company like Chanel or Valentino have a couture line and a less expensive off the rack line??? For example does Chanel make $5000 dress and $500 dresses?

 

The Haute Courture industry is a very small one catering to a very few women. I'm sure Jane (and forgive me for jumping in) will correct me but I've never considered the runway fashions or the red carpet to be true haute couture because haute couture is one of a kind, hand made, for a particular person.

 

The red carpet fuels the mass market lines. It is the best advertising in the world. While you may never buy an Escada gown, you would maybe buy a pair of their jeans.

 

Hundreds of thousands of women all over the world can afford Chanel and the top lines and so buy these.

 

I've never seen a $500 Chanel dress only $5,000 Chanel jackets.

[Jane110]

Jane,thank you I find it all very interesting, but I have to ask what is perhaps a silly question. Since the "mass market" will never buy a haute couture gown why do the designers feel it so important to get their name out there via the AA?

 

Not a silly question at all!

 

The reason the designers want their haute couture on the celebs is for a few reasons:

 

Yes, of course they want to sell clothes. You can walk into any Sak's, Neiman's, Bloomingdales, Jeffrey's, etc and buy couture from Chanel, Dior, Jil Sander, Calvin, Donna and Ralph. A Chanel suit costs about $5000., but for a woman who makes over $250,000. a year, buying one or two of these suits is a good investment and separates her from the secretary's big time! Fahsionista's crave Dior and you can buy a pair of pants for $2000. or a blouse for $800. Sure, expensive, but you don't need to be a millionaire to splurge on a piece. So of course seeing your favorite designer in the spotlight of the AA's keeps them in the forefront.

 

And designers like Donna, Calvin and Ralph are very affordable for upscale people who make over $200,000. a year. I guess your income determines how much you can buy. <g> But with statistics showing that the "average" income in Manhattan (below 96th Street) is $188,000. a year, splurging on an Armani investment suit for $2000. really won't break the bank for many. My friend and her husband are public school teachers and make over $150,000. year, so it's really not a stretch. A friend of mine, who makes less than $80,000. a year buys herself a new Prada dress every year. (daytime dress which is under $1000., not an evening gown)

(and please folks, I really don't care to argue the point whether it's worth it or not or what you feel people should or shouldn't spend their money on. I'm answering a question with facts, not creating a debate)

 

Now for the "mass market".

The designers want to be on the front pages and have the stars wear their clothes because of all the licensed products. For example, if you wanted to buy a gift for someone you didn't know well (maybe a client) Which would you buy ....perfume from eau Dior or eau de Freeda's Frocks? Would you buy them a scarf from Valentino/Lanvin/Armani or from Joe Schmoe's fashions? Which one tells the recipient that you want to give them a special gift and that you're a person with taste? A product from a designer, whether it's licensed or in-house, carry's the cache of design, fashion and quality.

 

I have gifts from friends that are gorgous books on Chanel, Dior and Judith Lieber with stunning pictures of their designs, some history and nice quotes. The designers make a lot of money on those "coffee table" books. But if you're not famous, you're not going to sell many of those books.

 

Haute couture designers make more money from their licensed products than they do from their actual clothing, because so few buy the gowns and it costs so much of their marketing dollars to keep those gowns in front of our faces. Oleg Cassini designed for many celebrities, but his licensed products made him the big bucks. Same for Givenchy.

 

 

 

Is it because the knock off companies do a "right away" knock off on the gowns? Because if Chanel, Armani, et al how many of the people watching actually will be able to buy one of their gowns? And the ones who do and can, already are customers for the most part no?

 

No, the designers make no money from companies that knock them off. I know that ABS has look-alike dresses in the stores a week after the Acadamy Awards copy what the winners wore. The designers don't make much of a fuss about it in the same way they do about the handbag knock-offs, because they know that no one who see's one of the $89.98 frocks is going to mistake it for a $5000. designer original. And no one who's buying an original, is going to settle for the quality of a dress like that. So it's flattery and everyone ignores each other in this regard.

 

 

Jane

[Jane110]

Jane,

 

What is the demographic of poeple who buy couture fashion? Or whom the fashion houses are targeting?

 

See my answer to MrsMoose regarding this. I think that will answer it.

 

And does a company like Chanel or Valentino have a couture line and a less expensive off the rack line??? For example does Chanel make $5000 dress and $500 dresses?

 

Chanel does not, but some do.

However, you can buy a pair of Chanel shoes in the $400. range - same as Manolo and Choo. Valentino also has gorgeous evening shoes in that price range too.

Donna Karan has DKNY. Armani has black label, blue label, white label and Armani x/s (jeans). Ralph Lauren has Polo and Ralph.

 

Oscar de la Renta has an haute couture line where he makes gowns for women like Bush, a designer line of gowns that retail for anywhere from $3000 - $8000. and then he licenses his name out to a company that has a line of rtw (ready to wear) that sell in stores like Bloomingdales, Sak's, Nordstrom's, for typical working women prices - ie, jackets for $400, pants for $200. (compare with lines like Ellen Tracey or Tahari).

 

Jane

[Jane110]

The Haute Courture industry is a very small one catering to a very few women. I'm sure Jane (and forgive me for jumping in) will correct me but I've never considered the runway fashions or the red carpet to be true haute couture because haute couture is one of a kind, hand made, for a particular person.

 

Well the division lines are narrowing. When wealthy clientele are invited to the fashion shows, they'll order something from off the runway, but then it's altered to suit her more personally. And yes, they can go up to the designer's studio and have something made just for them too.

 

The red carpet fuels the mass market lines. It is the best advertising in the world. While you may never buy an Escada gown, you would maybe buy a pair of their jeans.

 

Exactly! Or their perfume, cosmetics, scarves, etc. Chanel makes more money from perfume and cosmetic sales than anything else.

[mrsred]

I just love watching how the fashion industry works and how it is all connected to other industries like Hollywood.

 

Thanks for the info Jane.

 

Really looking forward to seeing who Reese will wear.

 

Do you think Scarlett will go with another designer? She got such raves in her GG dress.

 

Do designers court the males A-listers as much as they do with the women?

 

~e

[Jane110]

Do designers court the males A-listers as much as they do with the women?

 

~e

 

YES! They all want Johnny Depp, George Clooney, etc wearing their tuxes.

[MrsMoose2001]

Thank you for the answer, I'm not disputing anything you write, but I have another question as I would really appreciate the clarification. Another silly question(s)

 

I personally always thought that the Chanel, Armani, Karen, Calvin, et al that I could by at Saks, et al was considered ready to wear.

 

I bought an Armani black label in the early 90's and considered it ready to wear. Same when I bought Karen in the mid 80's I thought it ready to wear and the same with Calvin. DH's mom loved the Chanel suits and I considered hers to be ready to wear also.

 

To me haute couture was the dresses one ordered from a runway show, had it tailor made to fit them and was not available in stores in various sizes.

 

I understand what you are saying about the scarves and perfume etc, I just read an article about something to that effect, that the "masses" could buy a piece of "luxury" in sunglasses or a scarf etc. I always just asumed that there were two lines, haute couture and ready to wear (black label)

I assumed that the Armani, A/X and Collectionzi (sp) were bridge or secondary lines.

 

I never really thought that Donna Karen was haute couture I always thought that her "main line" was ready to wear and the DKNY was the secondary line same with Calvin and Ralph et al.

 

I wasn't even thinking of it from a price point as to the price of the clothing. I'm trying to explain, it's not that a Chanel suit cost $5,000, I thought that suite was considered ready to wear and the couture started much higher.

 

I always thought that the designers like Dior, St. Laurent, Chanel, et al had the haute couture and the ready to wear and never even considered any secondary or bridge lines, talking just clothing here.

 

Again, I'm not disputing anything you wrote, I just am trying to understand as I love to discuss fashion. I'm really clueless as to the way the clothing is classified and I'm learning something here.

 

I guess that's why I could see the "accessories" people scrambling more, because I figured the shoes/bags, etc was more easily attainable "en masse" than couture. I always assumed even if one could afford a couture item it would not be accessable or I should say my idea of couture vs the ready to wear.

 

Honestly, I wonder though if people really remember and if it does that much for them with the "mass population" even if someone spends the bucks on the Chanel, Armani etc, in a sense that, does the average person remember in 2 months what say Resse, or Felicity wore and choose that way or do they just know the "expensive" brands and choose that way. I agree about the "name gift thing", but do they choose that name because it's out there in the mags and just known to "have class/status" or are they remembering that "celb X" wore it at the AA?

 

A bag would be a good example. Vouge says, this is the "IT" bag of the season and it's sold out or on a wait list etc. And how does it become the "IT" bag/shoe etc. Is it because of the AA or any award show? I mean the Chloe Paddington bag was an "It" bag this past fall. I saw 5 women fighting for the last one in Saks, how does it become so popular?

 

I hope what I'm trying to ask is coming across well, it's not a dispute, or disagreement in any way I hope you understand that, just questions that have been in the back of my mind and trying to figure it out and get it right so to speak.

[Jane110]

MrsMoose,

 

You're right. Technically, a $5000. Chanel suit is RTW (ready to wear) because it's not custom made. However it is couture, even though not Haute Couture.

 

My Mother has some custom made evening wear made for her and she pays about $400. for a skirt. It isn't haute couture or couture - but it is custom.

 

Donna Karan, Calvin Klein, Ralph Lauren are considered "Designer" level and yes, affordable by many. Donna and Calvin can make couture pieces for people because they are true designers - they can cut, sew and drape fabric. However, Ralph can't - he's a merchandiser and a stylist who needs designers to execute his ideas.

 

As far as what makes something an "IT" item, I'm not quite sure as I think for different things it can be ignited from different places. But I think that once someone that famous for their style is seen wearing it, others in the small circle will follow and it then becomes like a "secret handshake" then it get big enough to get noticed and everyone wants it. But that's just my speculation.

[MrsMoose2001]

Hi Jane,

 

Thank you for takeing the time to discuss this, I'm really learning something here. I didn't realize that there was a seperation between haute couture and coutre. But now it all seems to make sense.

Let's see if I got it right.

 

Couture would be the ready to wear Chanel suit. Haute Couture would be the custom made Chanel suit as an example.

 

Didn't know that Ralph was not a true designer, that is very interesting to learn, I thought he was just like Calvin and Donna, very interesting to learn this.

 

The custom thing I got as DH has to have his dress shirts/suits made to measure as they don't sell his size here because of his height, it's almost an impossiblity for him to buy a suit of the rack now because the jackets and pants would all be too short, shirts don't come in his sleeve length at all that will fit. It's simpler and about the same price if he went in and bought a good suit so he gets them made but by no means is it couture, it's just what the tailor calls made to measure, and because of the price the guy charges actually has a large client base, he has respresentatives come in from Hong Kong 2x a year and you choose fabric and they measure and then it gets shipped, his client base is growing so much that it now takes up to 4 months to get the items. They have a deal with a local tailor for minor alterterations here.

Actually a very good deal and set up.

 

I would think you are right about the "It" items, my guess would be also that when there is a limited # available and more people want it, it becomes an "IT" bag. Like the colored LV bags. They were hard to come by in the beginning so it became "IT" and now it's no longer difficult, it's not "IT" anymore, the LV still has status but that particular one(s) are no longer "IT". How does that sound? I've always wondered how something like a shoe or bag became the "It" item of the season.

 

Thanks for the explanation. most appreciated. learned somethng about fashion :)

[bobby'sgirl]

Thank you Jane and Mrs. M for the interesting discussion. Fashion and taste occur on many levels. It is how it is presented I believe. Thanks again to each of you for providing background information.:)

[BlueHerons]

Thank you for takeing the time to discuss this, I'm really learning something here. I didn't realize that there was a seperation between haute couture and coutre. But now it all seems to make sense.

 

:)

 

Fascinating Jane and thank you very much for the insight!

[Jane110]

 

Didn't know that Ralph was not a true designer, that is very interesting to learn, I thought he was just like Calvin and Donna, very interesting to learn this.

 

 

Not even in the same league. And Ralph would be the first to admit it. He started his career as a tie salesman and because he has such an incredible eye for style, color and pattern, he started working with designers and fabric companies to create gorgeous and elegant ties. I don't recall exactly how he got into womenswear, but he's always considered himeself a merchdiser/stylist with a great vision. He creates concepts - English To the Manner Born, Preppy, etc - and hires the right designers to create his vision of style. Ralph likes to create images and no one does it better. But who knows if he could sew a button! LOL!

(Trivia: Ralph's real name is Ralph Lipschitz - certainly not as "romantic" as Lauren. And it's pronounced LAUren, he's american, not french so don't pronounce it LauREN)

 

Donna Karan and Calvin Klein are master craftspeople. They don't create stories. They create pieces that fit women's bodies who then work the clothes into the images they create for themselves. Perhaps that's why their clothes are so monochromatic. Perhaps that's why so many individualistic women love them? Neither of them tells you how you should wear their things - Ralph does. Donna started her career right after graduating from FIT and was an assistant to Anne Klein. She worked there for years and took over the line w/ her creative partner Louis Dell'Ollio (spelling?) when Anne died. They carried on the AK collection for many years until Donna was approached by backers who encouraged her to go out on her own. The rest, as they say, is history.

Calvin started in his own business and spent years struggling to get the stores to buy his simple, clean cut but beautifully tailored clothes. His business partner, Barry Schwartz, and he have been pals since high school and after years of struggling, his designs finally took off and Barry has always run the business side.

[MrsMoose2001]

Thanks Jane, I remember when Donna worked for Anne Klein and then with Louis, I remember when her line came out.

 

I'm personally not a fan of Calvin, I used to like his stuff in the 80's had a few pieces but not anymore.

 

I have another question, where does D&G fit in? What would you classify them as?

 

thank you so much for all the info, this is really facinating for me!