Croatia: Split . . . Jadrolinija Timeliness

[GTJ]

I am planning for consecutive ocean cruises in April 2023, with about one week in Italy between the two cruises. I considering travel on the MF Marko Polo, operated by Jadrolinija, the Croatian state-owned shipping line, from Ancona, Italy, to Split, Croatia. The off-season schedule has the vessel departing from Ancona on Tuesday and Friday evenings at 7:45 p.m., and arriving at Split the next morning at 7:00 a.m. Off-season, Hrvatske željeznice (Croatian Railways) operates a single daily train to Zagreb, the ICN "Marjan" train, which departs Split at 8:31 a.m. (except on Sundays when the train departs at 2:25 p.m.). Otherwise, there is regular bus service from Split to Zagreb. I question the timeliness of Jadrolinija sailings. Can I expect it to arrive in Split on schedule? If so, how long might I anticipate for immigration and customs inspection? The railway station is right across the street from the port (and adjacent to the bus terminal), so if I can be off the vessel and through immigration and customs by 8:10 a.m. or so, I should be in good position for boarding the 8:31 a.m. railway departure. It that likely to happen? Or is is more likely that "Plan B," travel by bus, will be required? Any prior experience or guidance on navigating the port in Split would be welcomed.

 

Secondarily, can anyone opine on the quality of service provided by Jadrolinija and the conditions on the vessel MF Marko Polo? What about alternative vessels? I have read a number of largely negative reviews, but since negative reviews are more frequently than positive reviews, I am not certain that the posted reviews are entirely representative of the service. Are there any other services across the Adriatic Sea that might be operating at the start of the last week of April (assume April 25, 2023)? I had hoped that SNAV would be operating at that time, but it seems as though their season on the Ancona-Split route does not typically begin until the last weekend of April, too late for this journey. Similarly, the service between Bari, Italy, and Bar, Montenegro, connecting with the railroad to Belgrade, also would not be operating at this time. (The services across the Adriatic Sea to Dubrovnik, Croatia, and Durrës, Albania, would not be attractive alternatives to Split, as neither have railroad services.)

[iancal]

We have traveled between Ancona and Split.  As I recall there were a few different ferries to choose from.  It is not a very long trip.

 

I would caution you that may be a little too early to lock down on ferry timetables on this route.  Our experience is that they can change a month or two or so prior to the travel date.  If you do make a reservation you should reconfirm.  

 

As I recall we booked on the directferries web site. There are a few web based firms that book ferries.   

 

We checked our reservation a month prior and were surprised to see that our ferry was not running on that day.  Changed our reservation.

[GTJ]

3 hours ago, iancal said:

I would caution you that may be a little too early to lock down on ferry timetables on this route.  Our experience is that they can change a month or two or so prior to the travel date.

Many thanks for the information. On your travel between Anacona and Split, do you recall if the arrival in Split was on time? Also, do you recall the amount of time it required to clear immigration and customs inspection upon arrival at Split? My reading of various reviews was that (1) vessels often departed late, sometimes by hours, but the schedule is so padded that arrivals are on time, and (2) there is a chaotic boarding process with huge queues but not much commentary on disembarkation.

 

The schedule is one of the elements that is a bit of a challenge here, particularly in light of the substantial deviations from normal operations that have been implemented on account of the pandemic. I have looked at prior year schedules to get a sense of what is likely to be the case for 2023, but no schedules have yet been published for the year 2023. In the case of Jadrolinija, the present schedule goes to the end of 2022, and has been relatively stable, so I expect to be roughly the same in 2023. Moreover, given its regularity, being stated-owned, and likely transporting other persons (particularly Coatian nationals) who are not specifically destined for Split but points beyond, I have some degree of confidence that connections are intended and will be maintained. Of course, that does not prevent the company from changing the schedule to, say, two hours later and a 9:00 a.m. arrival, thereby destroying the connection (unless the railroad to make the same two hour change).

 

Yes, it is just an overnight trip, less than 12 hours, so not especially enduring . . . unless the conditions on the vessel are truly horrible. Do you recall the vessel you traveled upon and its conditions? And in season there are several choices, but late April is still off-season, and other operators of service across the Adriatic Sea seem to have relatively late starting dates for their summer season. There appear to be very few year-round crossings of the sea upon which one might plan for late April, with Ancona to Split being one of those few. SNAV does appear to start their summer season early, historically the last weekend in April. But I would be more concerned with taking a chance on SNAV having service at that time when we would need to rely upon it. I remember one several years ago planning for a trip in Newfoundland, Canada, relying on a ferry within Gros Morne National Park to have resumed service for the season, and had even communicated by e-mail in advance with the relatively small ferry operator, Bon Tours. It turned out that the ferry company had changed its plans and moved back the start-up date. But since the company had other operations there, and had communicated with me before, it made a special crossing, and return, for the two of us alone.

 

Here, our decision to go ahead (or not) and book the larger cruise vessel itineraries, one with Holland America Line from the United States to Europe and the other with MSC Cruises from Europe back to the Untied States, is somewhat dependent on being able to make travel arrangements within Europe between those two larger itineraries, including service across the Adriatic Sea with Jadrolinija or otherwise. Without a workable schedule across the sea, we might travel overland, by railroad, between Italy and Croatia, but that would influence whether we decide whether to travel overseas in 2023 or not.

[iancal]

We were on an extended trip.  We dropped our rental in Ancona, we were foot passengers.  It was in Sept.  The weather was good.  The ferry was essentially on time.  This was pre covid. I do not recall any particular issue/delay with customs and immigration.  We have travelled a fair amount by ferry in Croatia, Greece, Turkey, Italy, etc. by ferry.  Our recollection is that the boarding process was fine.   Our schedule was not tight.  We planned to stay in Split for a day or two, then go ferry down the coast.  I cannot tell you if the ferry was late.  If it was, then not by much.

 

 

The ferry was in reasonable shape.  I forget the company.  But keep in mind, the most important part of the ship, ferry or cruise ship, is NOT what the passengers see.  It is the superstructure, the electronics, computers, engine etc.    We used Jadrolinja ferries to tour the coast, stopping in several places, to Dubrovnik.  Then ferry to Bari.

 

I would no even consider trying to hone my schedule down to the last 30 minutes.  And certainly not a year in advance.   Ferry scheds will probably not be determined until  after the new year for April.  No doubt they will be the same or very similar from year to year.   In our experience they are always subject to change.  Bottom line is that things can change.  Go with the flow and have a plan B to spend more time in Split or less whatever the case may be.

 

Our advice...chill out.  Wait until the early 2023 when you have reliable info about what firms are operating routes and their respective timetables.   

Edited August 9, 2022 by iancal

[iancal]

Not certain if you are taking a car on the ferry.  We never do. 

 

When we travel in Europe for weeks at a time we typically keep an eye out for late booking cruises.  Especially Med cruises. 

 

Keep in mind that  there is a great deal of regional air service in Europe.  Skyscanner is a reasonably good website for reviewing those options. 

 

We have changed our plans on short notice a number of times and grabbed regional flights to the embarkation port.   Understand those backup options, rail and/or air,  prior to leaving home.

 

If you are book ending land travel with two firm cruise reservations my advice would be to build into your schedule at least one or two days of flux.  The worst that will happen is might have an extra two days in and around your return  pre cruise city   We did seven months of travel just like this and it worked out just fine.