Falklands / South Georgia / Antarctic in October - wonderful idea or terrible mistake?

[RyanJCanada]

Hello! You may remember me from such trip reports as Dublin to Reykjavik 2023 and We Didn't Mean to go to Greenland. We're looking at booking a cruise to Antarctica in 2025 / 2026, specifically the 21 day Buenos Aires to Puerto Williams that leaves Oct 15th 2025.

 

We've reached out to all the wonderful friends we met on our last cruises, and got great feedback - the consensus is that October is the ideal time to visit the Falklands and South Georgia, but that we might run into problems with the pack ice in Antarctica. (Which - for our Greenland cruise - proved to be a persistent nemesis, thwarting multiple attempts to enter various sounds and fjords.)

 

Our focus is on the wildlife rather than the natural beauty, and we're okay with minimal landings on the Antarctica peninsula provided we land at least once.

 

So, for those of you who who have traveled these routes before or have simply heard through the rumour mill: 

 

Do you think that October is a reasonable time to visit the Falklands, South Georgia and Antarctica?

 

Thanks so much for your time and feedback!

 

(Bonus question - This cruise originates in Natal, Brazil. Right now, details are thin as to what sort of excursions would be offered. Has anyone traveled this route, and what sort of expedition-type excursions were on offer? Would you recommend it? Due to the various incentives involved we're leaning heavily towards doing only the Buenos Aires to Puerto Williams portion, but thought it best to ask.)

 

 

Edited October 23, 2023 by RyanJCanada

[whirldcruzrs]

I've seen news that this coming winter will have less sea ice than in years past and whether or not you believe in climate change, I would guess that the years to come will be on the same trajectory.

[carefreecruise]

Early in the season will see the following:

1) some passes may still be blocked by ice.

2) Penguins will be nesting and may not be too active.

3) things should look clean and prestine. 

4) may be a tad bit cooler in temperatures. 

Edited October 23, 2023 by carefreecruise

[RyanJCanada]

1 hour ago, whirldcruzrs said:

I've seen news that this coming winter will have less sea ice than in years past and whether or not you believe in climate change, I would guess that the years to come will be on the same trajectory.

This seems likely to us too, unfortunately...

[RyanJCanada]

25 minutes ago, carefreecruise said:

Early in the season will see the following:

1) some passes may still be blocked by ice.

2) Penguins will be nesting and may not be too active.

3) things should look clean and prestine. 

4) may be a tad bit cooler in temperatures. 

Appreciate your thoughts, thank you.

 

We've heard wildlife in S. Georgia can get aggressive in Nov / early Dec as they defend nesting sites and their young, which is another reason why we thought earlier might be better.

 

We don't mind cooler weather - we swam in the Cloud's pool most of the days we were in Greenland.

[drron29]

You will get to see wildlife but the downside you will not see the young animals. Penguins and the other birds of Antarctica who will be nesting at that time. So you will miss the scenes of Skuas taking advantage of a penguins momentary lapse of concentration and taking the chick. Some might find that depressing and a bonus if not having to see it but to me it would be a negative.

 

As to ice the Peninsula sea ice has been getting less for some years whilst the sea ice over on the east coast is still more than it was 13 years ago when we ere able to land in front of Mawson's huts on their 99th anniversary in 2010/11. Similiar to this picture.

 

A year later there was 10 nautical miles of sea ice between a cruise vessel and Mawson's hut but the passengers could see Mawson's huts but didn't get to visit them.

https://www.auroraexpeditions.com.au/blog/aurora-expeditions-reaches-commonwealth-bay-100-years-after-sir-douglas-maw/

 

The only people to get inside Mawson's hut since are members of Scientific teams not tourists. Here is the report of one such expedition in December 2021 when they had to be flown in by helicopter.

https://www.kidsnews.com.au/geography/chill-seeker-david-killick-showcases-his-amazing-antarctic-adventures/news-story/544db012ca1f30a0b6d21d0229794d23

 

Australia's Scenic Eclipse vessels are scheduled to visit Mawson's huts in 2024/25 so could be the first tourists since we were there. b

 

So how come the sea ice is decreasing in West Antarctica but stable or increasing in East Antarctica?

The probable reason is volcanoes. West Antarctica is close to being the most concentrated system of volcanoes in the world. So it is likely to be the West Antarctic ice is being melted from below not from above.

https://www.theguardian.com/world/2017/aug/12/scientists-discover-91-volcanos-antarctica

 

So likely you will be able to land on the peninsula.

Edited October 24, 2023 by drron29

[RyanJCanada]

13 hours ago, drron29 said:

You will get to see wildlife but the downside you will not see the young animals. Penguins and the other birds of Antarctica who will be nesting at that time. So you will miss the scenes of Skuas taking advantage of a penguins momentary lapse of concentration and taking the chick. Some might find that depressing and a bonus if not having to see it but to me it would be a negative.

 

As to ice the Peninsula sea ice has been getting less for some years whilst the sea ice over on the east coast is still more than it was 13 years ago when we ere able to land in front of Mawson's huts on their 99th anniversary in 2010/11. Similiar to this picture.

 

A year later there was 10 nautical miles of sea ice between a cruise vessel and Mawson's hut but the passengers could see Mawson's huts but didn't get to visit them.

https://www.auroraexpeditions.com.au/blog/aurora-expeditions-reaches-commonwealth-bay-100-years-after-sir-douglas-maw/

 

The only people to get inside Mawson's hut since are members of Scientific teams not tourists. Here is the report of one such expedition in December 2021 when they had to be flown in by helicopter.

https://www.kidsnews.com.au/geography/chill-seeker-david-killick-showcases-his-amazing-antarctic-adventures/news-story/544db012ca1f30a0b6d21d0229794d23

 

Australia's Scenic Eclipse vessels are scheduled to visit Mawson's huts in 2024/25 so could be the first tourists since we were there. b

 

So how come the sea ice is decreasing in West Antarctica but stable or increasing in East Antarctica?

The probable reason is volcanoes. West Antarctica is close to being the most concentrated system of volcanoes in the world. So it is likely to be the West Antarctic ice is being melted from below not from above.

https://www.theguardian.com/world/2017/aug/12/scientists-discover-91-volcanos-antarctica

 

So likely you will be able to land on the peninsula.

Thanks, @drron29! Appreciate you weighing in while you're on a cruise of your own... the pictures are great, and are making us wish we'd already confirmed. Hoping we can get that done today.

 

We'll be going to Galapagos this summer, so I'm hopeful that our kids will be able to see some young penguins then. I think they'd find it a bit distressing to watch the young getting snatched up by Skuas, so I'm not too disappointed that we'd be missing that.

 

Interesting to hear that it may well be volcanoes increasing the loss of sea ice in the west - if so, then it would seem likely that we'd have good access to the peninsula early in the season.

 

Seems unlikely that we'd be able to get to visit Mawson's huts, but we're excited by the prospect of visiting Elephant Island. Just finished "Endurance" by Alfred Lansing, and we're eager to retrace the footsteps of the Shackleton expedition. Such an incredible story.

 

Anyway, it's always tough to make these decisions but it helps to be informed, first, and I definitely feel like we're getting the full range of opinions here.

 

(Also, I'm glad of the excuse to go back and re-read yours and others' trip reports.)

[highplanesdrifters]

17 hours ago, RyanJCanada said:

we might run into problems with the pack ice in Antarctica. (Which - for our Greenland cruise - proved to be a persistent nemesis, thwarting multiple attempts to enter various sounds and fjords.)

We were just talking about the pushing of shoulder season in Antarctica. As you have experienced in Greenland, pack ice is volatile and does not read the newspapers. You can find recent records for both more and less pack ice. Get your dice out.

@drron29 Great article.

As for the aggressive seal pups, yes we experienced that in early January.  It was pretty darn cute. Some hissing but mostly puppy dog eyes.  Nothing I'd be concerned about.

[drron29]

When we visited the Falklands late in the season on the Explorer the young seals just wouldn't stop charging. But I had a protector that stopped them charging me. He looked me over first and then I just followed. Magic.

.

 

.

 

And here he is in action.

 

Not to mention albino seals.

 

 

[Tothesunset]

This is a true story:

 

On the West Coast of West Falkland my Cpl and I decided we'd had enough of being cooped up in our temporary lodgings (essentially a muddy hole covered with canvas) and would have a stroll to the nearby beach. There was plenty of Air cover and naval patrolling going on and no known mines so I thought, "Sod it, let's go find some penguins". 

 

The CO said OK as long as we were armed and in radio contact and confirmed the location of other "blue" forces. Not being short of ammunition, but being bereft of common sense, we thought it a great idea to lay down a good few rounds in the direction of the sea - just because. Well, my Browning 9mm jammed on the first round so we blatted away with the SMG for a while. 

 

Took my weapon back to the armoury and gingerly handed it to the armourer explaining that there was a live round jammed and 12 rounds in the mag (which was also jammed). He took it from me, looked me up and down as if I was something unpleasant he'd just stepped in and said "Mmm, been playing have we, Sir?" I felt about 2 ft tall! 

 

Never did see the penguins. 

[mancunian]

The Falklands we loved.  If however you worry about port cancellations it is risky.   Cruiselines reckon and advise you there is only a fifty per cent chance of landing.

Apparently on some occasions the weather changes so rapidly the ship horn blows and you have to hurry back.

 

Wewere very lucky and had sunny though windy weather.   It is an interesting place and I loved it.

[Tothesunset]

They say in Scotland you can experience all 4 seasons in one day. In the Falklands it's half an hour. 

[RyanJCanada]

3 hours ago, highplanesdrifters said:

We were just talking about the pushing of shoulder season in Antarctica. As you have experienced in Greenland, pack ice is volatile and does not read the newspapers. You can find recent records for both more and less pack ice. Get your dice out.

@drron29 Great article.

As for the aggressive seal pups, yes we experienced that in early January.  It was pretty darn cute. Some hissing but mostly puppy dog eyes.  Nothing I'd be concerned about.

Fair point - despite whatever climate trends there might've been in recent years, we are still very much rolling the dice.

 

In terms of the aggressive animals, it was more the time around mid-November to late December we were warned against, as that was the time the adults would be protecting their newborns.

 

Early January was said to be another great time to go, and hissing seals with puppy dog eyes do sound adorable...

[RyanJCanada]

2 hours ago, mancunian said:

The Falklands we loved.  If however you worry about port cancellations it is risky.   Cruiselines reckon and advise you there is only a fifty per cent chance of landing.

Apparently on some occasions the weather changes so rapidly the ship horn blows and you have to hurry back.

 

Wewere very lucky and had sunny though windy weather.   It is an interesting place and I loved it.

Good to know... the itinerary does call for us to be there for 3 days, so I don't mind an impromptu at-sea day so long as we do get to land at some point or another.

 

Heard fantastic things about both Falklands and South Georgia, which is why they're must-haves for this itinerary.

[RyanJCanada]

2 hours ago, Tothesunset said:

This is a true story:

 

On the West Coast of West Falkland my Cpl and I decided we'd had enough of being cooped up in our temporary lodgings (essentially a muddy hole covered with canvas) and would have a stroll to the nearby beach. There was plenty of Air cover and naval patrolling going on and no known mines so I thought, "Sod it, let's go find some penguins". 

 

The CO said OK as long as we were armed and in radio contact and confirmed the location of other "blue" forces. Not being short of ammunition, but being bereft of common sense, we thought it a great idea to lay down a good few rounds in the direction of the sea - just because. Well, my Browning 9mm jammed on the first round so we blatted away with the SMG for a while. 

 

Took my weapon back to the armoury and gingerly handed it to the armourer explaining that there was a live round jammed and 12 rounds in the mag (which was also jammed). He took it from me, looked me up and down as if I was something unpleasant he'd just stepped in and said "Mmm, been playing have we, Sir?" I felt about 2 ft tall! 

 

Never did see the penguins. 

Great story. NCOs do have a way with words, don't they?

 

I think that same generation of 9mm Browning might still be in service with the Canadian Forces... nothing inspires like a pistol that rattles like a tambourine as you draw it from its holster.

[labrasett]

40 minutes ago, RyanJCanada said:

Good to know... the itinerary does call for us to be there for 3 days, so I don't mind an impromptu at-sea day so long as we do get to land at some point or another.

 

Heard fantastic things about both Falklands and South Georgia, which is why they're must-haves for this itinerary.

I have been three times with Silversea and always got into Stanley plus several landings on other islands.  It is an absolutely magical place, very unusual lifestyle, delightful people, amazing wildlife but very desolate.  If you love wild places and birds and animals it will be perfect.

[jpalbny]

4 hours ago, RyanJCanada said:

we're excited by the prospect of visiting Elephant Island.

 

Hope you get good enough weather to see it. If you're lucky, you will be able to launch the zodiacs and see it from a closer perspective. It is EXCEEDINGLY uncommon to actually land there because almost no part is flat enough to land (even with zodiacs) and almost any flat part is covered with nesting chinstrap penguins. Don't count on it.

 

Most of our expedition staff had never landed there (or so they said), and they say it's 50/50 about even launching zodiacs. We got a nice zodiac ride, close enough to Point Wild to see the plaque honoring the ship that rescued Shackleton's crew, and then later in the morning the fog lifted so we could see the snowy peaks from the ship. Magical.

 

1 hour ago, RyanJCanada said:

Early January was said to be another great time to go, and hissing seals with puppy dog eyes do sound adorable...

 

Yes - that's when we were there. We did a 15-day South Georgia to Antarctica loop so SG was first (early January). Fur seal pups all over the place. And tons of adolescent king penguins with their ugly brown feathers morphing to adult plumage. 

 

***

 

Agree with Ron and carefreecruise - the earlier you go, the cleaner/more pristine the scenery because the penguins haven't been sitting on their nests for so long, ejecting guano in every direction. Nobody cleans up after them... The later you go, the more likely you are to see chicks. Go too late though and it's "dead chick" season (from what I've heard).

 

We went once mid-December and saw 95% eggs, and only a few tiny Adelie chicks in one stop. Second trip was mid-January by the time we made it to the peninsula, and there were Chinstrap, Gentoo, and Adelie chicks everywhere. Many nests had two each. However if the hunting is poor one will likely starve, so that's what they refer to later (too late) in the season.

 

It's an amazing destination no matter when you go. I probably preferred the chicks over the eggs, but both were wonderful trips and I'd go again tomorrow if I could.

[machotspur]

23 hours ago, RyanJCanada said:

Do you think that October is a reasonable time to visit the Falklands, South Georgia and Antarctica?

 

Hi RyanJCanada

There are some truly awesome accounts that have been posted already, from experienced Antarctic cruisers in response to your enquiry, so I will not attempt to augment them.

 

Mrs machotspur and I embark Silver Endeavour this time next week, commencing the Falklands/South Georgia/Antarctic Peninsula itinerary you are looking at.

 

In truth when considering 'when to go' we went round in circles.

Like you Falklands & South Georgia were more important to us than several landings on the Antarctic Peninsula (although like you we must have at least one Antarctic landing). I am a 'Shackleton fanatic' so would be devastated if we didn't get to at least see Elephant Island and to raise a glass at his graveside in South Georgia.

In the end - and I know it sounds shallow - but the thing that swung it for us was that a quite new ship - Silver Endeavour - was to be our home for 18 days, rather than more dated ships.

We felt that with the whole ecosystem being far less predictable than a couple of decades ago, we should just make a decision and go for it. 

 

I will let you know how we are feeling in 4 weeks time 😉  

 

Edited October 24, 2023 by machotspur

[machotspur]

5 hours ago, RyanJCanada said:

Seems unlikely that we'd be able to get to visit Mawson's huts, but we're excited by the prospect of visiting Elephant Island. Just finished "Endurance" by Alfred Lansing, and we're eager to retrace the footsteps of the Shackleton expedition. Such an incredible story.

 

Ryan - Alfred Lansing's "Endurance" is the classic account of Shackleton's adventure but may I recommend a couple of other excellent books - both of which I have experienced (twice) on audio.

 

Ranulph Fiennes (the preeminent living British explorer) released a biography of Shackleton in 2021 and it is truly outstanding !! Hearing the perspective from someone who has first hand experience of the challenges of Antarctic exploration really brings the book to life.

 

By way of variation Michael Smith also released in the same year a book named "An Unsung Hero". The subject was a chap name Tom Crean, who was on Shackleton's Endurance expedition and also one of the crew of 8 of the James Caird that managed to 'sail' from Elephant Island to South Georgia. He was also on previous expeditions with Shackleton and Scott.

He is - IMHO - a truly awesome man who deserves far more exposure than he has been given.

 

Enjoy - whatever you decide.   

 

[machotspur]

4 minutes ago, machotspur said:

 

 

Edited October 24, 2023 by machotspur

[highplanesdrifters]

3 hours ago, RyanJCanada said:

 

In terms of the aggressive animals, it was more the time around mid-November to late December we were warned against, as that was the time the adults would be protecting their newborns.

Gotcha!

Here's a few if the thousands if cuties.

 

 

[highplanesdrifters]

Opps didn't load on last post.

 

 

 

 

 

[RyanJCanada]

5 hours ago, drron29 said:

When we visited the Falklands late in the season on the Explorer the young seals just wouldn't stop charging. But I had a protector that stopped them charging me. He looked me over first and then I just followed. Magic.

.

 

.

 

And here he is in action.

 

Not to mention albino seals.

 

 

Such incredible pictures... we're going to have a hard time waiting for our departure date to arrive.

[RyanJCanada]

1 hour ago, jpalbny said:

 

Hope you get good enough weather to see it. If you're lucky, you will be able to launch the zodiacs and see it from a closer perspective. It is EXCEEDINGLY uncommon to actually land there because almost no part is flat enough to land (even with zodiacs) and almost any flat part is covered with nesting chinstrap penguins. Don't count on it.

 

Most of our expedition staff had never landed there (or so they said), and they say it's 50/50 about even launching zodiacs. We got a nice zodiac ride, close enough to Point Wild to see the plaque honoring the ship that rescued Shackleton's crew, and then later in the morning the fog lifted so we could see the snowy peaks from the ship. Magical.

 

 

Yes - that's when we were there. We did a 15-day South Georgia to Antarctica loop so SG was first (early January). Fur seal pups all over the place. And tons of adolescent king penguins with their ugly brown feathers morphing to adult plumage. 

 

***

 

Agree with Ron and carefreecruise - the earlier you go, the cleaner/more pristine the scenery because the penguins haven't been sitting on their nests for so long, ejecting guano in every direction. Nobody cleans up after them... The later you go, the more likely you are to see chicks. Go too late though and it's "dead chick" season (from what I've heard).

 

We went once mid-December and saw 95% eggs, and only a few tiny Adelie chicks in one stop. Second trip was mid-January by the time we made it to the peninsula, and there were Chinstrap, Gentoo, and Adelie chicks everywhere. Many nests had two each. However if the hunting is poor one will likely starve, so that's what they refer to later (too late) in the season.

 

It's an amazing destination no matter when you go. I probably preferred the chicks over the eggs, but both were wonderful trips and I'd go again tomorrow if I could.

Good to know regarding Elephant Island - though a Zodiac ride would be great, should we be that lucky. And great to hear that it'll be an amazing destination regardless. Clearly the solution will be to make a second trip later on...

[RyanJCanada]

38 minutes ago, machotspur said:

 

Ryan - Alfred Lansing's "Endurance" is the classic account of Shackleton's adventure but may I recommend a couple of other excellent books - both of which I have experienced (twice) on audio.

 

Ranulph Fiennes (the preeminent living British explorer) released a biography of Shackleton in 2021 and it is truly outstanding !! Hearing the perspective from someone who has first hand experience of the challenges of Antarctic exploration really brings the book to life.

 

By way of variation Michael Smith also released in the same year a book named "An Unsung Hero". The subject was a chap name Tom Crean, who was on Shackleton's Endurance expedition and also one of the crew of 8 of the James Caird that managed to 'sail' from Elephant Island to South Georgia. He was also on previous expeditions with Shackleton and Scott.

He is - IMHO - a truly awesome man who deserves far more exposure than he has been given.

 

Enjoy - whatever you decide.   

 

Thanks for the book recommendations! Yes, I'm also amazed that the Shackleton Expedition isn't more widely known - I think the first time I heard about it was in one of @drron29's cruise reports.

 

Very glad that we're able to share these kinds of books with our kids. These stories feel so much more real when you see the actual destinations involved.