Dominica Update

[jbuch02]

Recently visitied this port of call on MV GalaxyTuesday, March 13th, 2007. Pronounced dough-ma-NEEK-a, I learned, so as to prevent confusion with the Dominican Republic. I was asked by other Cruise Critic members aboard MV Galaxy to join the board and report on my experience in Dominica - I've been a "lurker' for years. Apparently, there's little that is reported about Dominica experiences using other than cruise ship arranged tours. This report is oriented to folks who want to arrange their own tours. This way you save a little money, get a little more personal attention and, generally, I have found, a better tour that is designed around what you want to see not what someone has pre-arranged. Of course you take the risk of a break down and the ship leaving without you (its never happened to me but I have heard tales of near denied boarding). This is just me. I'm not knocking the ships' tours. Everyone I talked to in our group who participated in one of these found them to be very well done. This is my 10th Caribbean cruise .... "been there, done that" so I like to experiment but its not for everyone. If your relatively new to cruising, its really easier and less stressfull to start out using the ship tours and then learn from what others do outside of these unless you are naturally adventerous and ready to plunge right in.

 

I had a tour arranged with Beno who has an email address but no web site benox265@hotmail.com . For reasons that I am uncertain of, we could not locate him pier side. I emailed him today and will likely get a response as he was responsive to my initial inquiries and is reported to be very reliable from other posters here. Beno quotes a price of $160.00 for a 4-5 hour tour with 2 sites costing $2 each to enter (Botanical Gardens in Roseau and the Emerald Pool). We had planned on splitting this tour with another couple from Carnival Destiny that also was in communication with Beno via email. Destiny arrived 2 hours after our ship - at another pier and this may have been why we didn't find Beno; 80 bucks a couple was planned. I wouldn't try to do this next time between ships. If Beno should indicate he wants to do this, tell him you're only interested if he arranges a tour with passengers from your ship or one that's arriving and debarking passengers at the same time. If we had ended up with Beno, we would have lost about 2 hours waiting for Destiny and gotten back pretty late or not been able to do what we did do without him. Dominica is a big Island compared to St. Lucia, Barbados and the rest. You need 3 or more days to see it properly. You just get the highlights in a 4-5 hour tour.

 

There are two piers in Roseau about 2 miles apart. Celebrity docks at the Bay Street Dock (there is NO TOWN that you want to walk around in - not because its unsafe but because there is nothing there but industrial sites). Walking off the ship, you make your way through a small security terminal straight ahead of you. You can get local maps here on your left and there is someone who will show you what to see in 2 hours, 4, 5 or 6 hours. After leaving this booth, on your left is a large open market with 50 or so vendors with the usual stuff (save that for last). Security officers in brown uniforms are abundant and very helpful. You proceed through a second security booth on your right. Once outside the fenced in pier area, you will be approached by many drivers offering tours. Beno had sent me a picture of him with specific instructions not to ask anyone else except the security guards to direct myself and Ann to him; I now know why. No one was pushy at all just a lot of drivers looking for a fare. When it was reported by a security guard via another driver that Beno had left the area (??? reliable), another couple from our ship approached us and said they had a car and driver and wanted to know if we would split the fare. The fare started out at $40 a couple but this was a pretty limited tour of one site. The other couple wanted to go to the Caribe Territories, the Emerald pool and the gardens; that added another $20 per couple ($120 or $60 bucks a couple). You'll find that most drivers get somewhere between $120 and $160 per 4 passenger car (more for a van) throughout the Carribean; you can find them for less but you'll be taking a risk. Before you accept an offer for a tour, ask to see the drivers car. Tread-bear tires should stop you cold as should a beat up car. The cars are older but the good drivers drive reliable, well maintained cars. Ask the driver when the last time it was that he had the brakes changed. If you know how to do this yourself, you can check to see that the front disc pads have some wear left. You really don't need AC as once you get up in the hills above 1500', its very pleasant and the drivers don't like to run the AC because it uses more gas and puts too much of a load on the engine going up the hills. Roads in Dominica have lots of deep pot holes at the switch backs and the driver we had negotiated these very carefully telling us that if you hit one, you'll lose a wheel - I believed that. The driver we hired was named "Erroll, but not Flynn." An older man probably in his 50s, he was very nice and the other couple had approached him because he wasn't in their faces looking for a fare but rather standing quietly back from the fracas. His tour price was fair and at the low end of the expected range. Erroll drove a mid 90's, 4 door Nissan that was well kept up (but he needed new CV joints as you could hear them click on sharp turns) ... oh well. I'd recommend him. Just ask the security guards and they'll direct you to him.

 

Off to the Caribe territories. The "territories" are an hour and 20 minutes one way from the pier so its a ways but worth it. You go past the Emerald Pool coming and going and can see this on the way up or the way back (I'll get to that). Erroll pointed out the many varieties of trees and flowers along the way stopping to let us have a look when one was available. The foliage and different, brightly colored flowers on the trees and elsewhere is typical if not more lush than on the tropical portions of the other islands. There is evidence of housing developments with a spattering of very expensive looking, big houses under construction (the future Costa Rica for foreign expatriates???). Land is reportedly inexpensive, the vistas spectacular and the government somewhat receptive to this kind of development. There are no "big chain" resorts as these companies (e.g., Sandals) have apparently been discouraged from building and there are no "white sand" beaches. This island has a very different feel to it - a nice one, actually. Erroll pointed out several pieces of prime land, previously owned by Brits and managed as producing plantations that had been deeded back to locals who now own and operate them. There was also a very nice looking resort owned and operated by another Britton - don't remember the name but I would have not hesitated to stay there by the looks of it and my wife, Ann, is very picky. The legacy of colonial Britain is very much a part of Dominica as I sensed Erroll, a man in his late 50s that likely remembers the era of British "develpment" in the West Indies in the 50s and 60s, was fond of those times.

 

The Caribe territories are very rural and the land was deeded to the Caribes by the Dominican government. No one can buy land there except Caribes and the Caribes are working to preserve their long cultural and social history in the Carribean (except, Cannibalism, of course). We stopped and took pictures of a group of Caribe men hueing out a dugout canoe. One spoke english and we gave them $3.50 EC (they were ecstatic). The views are spectacular and there are plenty of interesting soveneirs for sale on the road side for next to nothing (the prices of the same stuff in the market were 3 times what we paid in the territories). The Caribe vendors will tell you the price in EC dollars - make sure which one your negotiating in. The EC is about 40-50% of a dollar (one EC equalls about 40-50 cents US). Bargain. This is part of the nature of the locals - its expected. I usually select several items, get their prices individually, then offer for the lot. They love US currency (don't need to exchange). After settling up, I tip in US (my custom and not expected).

 

The Emerald Pool. This is in a state maintained park. The park is very nice and costs $2 p/p to get in. Clean restrooms. Bottled water avilable. You can spend 3 hours or more in this park alone hiking. The pool and falls is a 15 minute hike in and is not something that a person who is not sure footed can negotiate. There are steep areas on the path which is very well maintatined and has some steps. But its not an easy walk and persons in wheel chairs or with canes shouldn't attempt this. The pool is at the bottom of a 60 foot falls in a beautiful grotto. The sun comes through the jungle canopy in such a way that it strikes the pool causing its green color. You can walk or swim in the crystal clear pool. The water is cool pool temp (about 70 degrees). Unless you like riding in a wet swim suit, just stick your toes in the pool. Marvelous photo op. You can get no-kidding, fresh coconut milk out of the nut from local vendors in the park after having the top clipped off with a machettee and a straw inserted .... "very good for the liver, the bladder, the heart and erectile dysfunction." according to the vendor. I wasn't too keen on it.

 

On the way back to the ship, I asked Erroll to find a fresh mango off a tree from the numerous vendors who have small fruit and vegetable stands along the road way. We pulled off the road and I paid $1 US for 4 exquisitely ripe ones. If you've never tried one of these straight off the tree, you are misssing one of the world's great pleasures (forget mango juice in a can). The mango has a large seed. With a sharp knife, you pare down the fruit into small slices and eat the fruit out of the skin. Its a delicious mess. My wife and our fellow travelers were appalled that I ate two of these tasty things using Erroll's "dirty" knife but I was none the worse off the rest of the cruise. Fruit that grows on trees is very safe (no pesticides or e-coli containing fertilizers here); that is not the case with leafy vegetables like lettuce that are frequently fertilized with cow and pig dung - be careful here.

 

The Botanical Gardens is just around the corner from the pier and our diver, Erroll, was certainly willing to take us with about 90 minutes left until boarding deadline .... well, we opted out of this as riding in a car for 4-5 hours can get surprisingly fatiguing. Ann and I both love open markets and we wanted some time for this. Once we opted out, the other couple did too and we paid our fares and went our separate ways. I typically tip tour guides 15% to 20% and laid out $70 on this $60 fare. Its me but I think this is the right thing to do.

 

Nice but fairly typical market. If you like to haggle, and I do, this is the place to hone your skills and increase your negotiating confidence. Dominicians are very friendly people, proud of their country and welcome the money that tourism is bringing to it. One of the best parts of this self arranged excursion was striking up a conversation over products and sales with the vendors in the market - they're good business women (just a few men there). They understand price points and sensitivity of gross sales to the art of making a good deal with a customer. They'd just light up with joy when they found somebody actually wanted to talk, bargain and buy and not just pass by with noses in the air.

 

So that's my Dominica tale. I'm sure I missed a ton of stuff as this is a big island requiring days not hours to fully explore and appreciate. Hope this helps out future visitors. Jeff and Ann B.

[pholter]

I'm so sorry that Beno let you down and caused you delay with no notice, but I know he's usually very dependable from reports here. I haven't used him personally though as we used Reyno Tours. Now, it seems we'll need to add Erroll to our list of good guys :)

 

Your report on Dominica was wonderful and I loved all your details. So glad you didn't let your first disappointment put a damper on your day! What a great island and now I have a few more places to visit thanks to your report.

[jbuch02]

I received an email from him tonight profusely appologizing for missing Ann and I at the pier. Exactly what I suspected happened, did, in fact, happen. He told me Destiny had arrived a 1/2 hour early and he was worried he would miss his passengers there. So he had to leave about 5 minutes early. We missed him by that much but it was probably better for all of us since we still got a full 5 hour tour. Destiny, meanwhile, was not scheduled to depart until 8 PM so, those passengers got plenty of time with Beno. Worked out. Can't say Beno "let me down." He had to make a choice and it seems he made a good one.

[pholter]

That is a great attitude to have and not everyone would have been so understanding. I'm so glad that you and Beno touched base and worked things out. I've heard great great things about him and his tours.

 

Thanks again for your very detailed island review as I'm enjoying reading it over again this morning! :)

[Ms.Bee]

Thanks again jbuch02 for your great report on Dominica!! I have printed it and will take it with us on our cruise. It sounds like a lovely island and we can't wait to see it. Thank you for the review, nicely done! Ms. Bee;)

[jbuch02]

The postivie comments on my Dominica Update post are appreciated. Here's a link to the Curise Review of the entire Celebrity Galaxy experience 03/5- 03/17/07 out of San Juan, PR. This is a good ship.

 

http://www.cruisecritic.com/memberreviews/memberreview.cfm?EntryID=26753

[rianvi]

Can you tell me where the market is that you went to?

 

Thank you

 

Anna:)

[Ms.Bee]

Hi jbuch02......I did see that you went to the Carib Indian Territory, and I intend to do so also. I have posted on these boards and no response so far, but I wondered if you had noticed a school while you were in the Indian Territories? I have many school supplies I bought and intend to get them to the teachers while I am there. Thanks again......Ms. Bee:rolleyes:

[jbuch02]

On the question of where's the market?

 

Its to your left as you leave the pier. A large open but covered area there are plenty of vendors and lots of stuff to see. Its very close to the pier that Galaxy docked at but there is another pier about 2 miles away and I've not been there. You don't have to deal with taxis or pushy locals to get there.

 

On a school in the Caribe territories .... I didn't see one but I will guarantee if you ask any of the Caribes living there, they'll tell you. I'd also not be surprised if you asked any of the tour guides that have been mentioned in the Dominca thread, they'll be able to take you three.

[elsje]

The postivie comments on my Dominica Update post are appreciated. Here's a link to the Curise Review of the entire Celebrity Galaxy experience 03/5- 03/17/07 out of San Juan, PR. This is a good ship.

 

http://www.cruisecritic.com/memberreviews/memberreview.cfm?EntryID=26753

 

 

So glad to read you enjoyed the Galaxy ~ I was on her last year from Galveston to Rome and I loved the ship. We just did our southern caribbean cruise in February on the Destiny. Dominica was our favorite island and we toured with Reyno Tours..the best tour we had from all islands we visited. We would like to go back to Dominica and spend more time exploring this beautoful island. ~ Els :o)

[elsje]

Hi jbuch02......I did see that you went to the Carib Indian Territory, and I intend to do so also. I have posted on these boards and no response so far, but I wondered if you had noticed a school while you were in the Indian Territories? I have many school supplies I bought and intend to get them to the teachers while I am there. Thanks again......Ms. Bee:rolleyes:

 

 

Hello Ms. Bee ~ we visited Dominica in February and we passed several schools on our tour with Reyno Tours. The public schools are very poor. There are several church run schools and they are private ones. We bought lots and lots of crayons, colored pencils, construction paper, scissors and markers. We handed it to Reyno and Rosalyn, his tour guide, to be distributed to the children of the people that work for them.

 

It is a very poor island, but yet so beautiful with friendly people.

 

Ask your driver to stop at one of the schools that you will pass on the way to the Caribe territory so you can deliver your supplies yourselves and your driver will also know if there is a school in the Caribe territory ~ I would think there would be one.

 

Have a great cruise ~ Els

[Ms.Bee]

Thanks Els and jbuch for the tips on the school searching, I do have lots and lots of supplies to get to the teachers and children, I am on a mission and will find a school. There is another woman on our ship who is collecting supplies to take to another school too, hopefully we can spread some goodwill from the Americans who visit their lovely island!!

Our curise sails this Friday, the 30th, we on on the Pearl and we on on the Ship of Fools (April Fools).........we are all soooo excited!!

Thanks again, Ms. Bee:rolleyes: