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Seattle Washington


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http://www.frommers.com/destinations/seattle/0032010001.html

VISITOR INFORMATION: If you still have questions about Seattle after reading this book, contact Seattle's Convention and Visitors Bureau, 701 Pike St., Suite 800, Seattle, WA 98101 (tel. 206/461-5840; www.seeseattle.org), which operates a Citywide Concierge Center inside the Washington State Convention and Trade Center, Eighth Avenue and Pike Street, main level (tel. 206/461-5888).

Imagine yourself sitting in a park on the Seattle waterfront, a double-tall latte and an almond croissant close at hand. The snowy peaks of the Olympic Mountains shimmer on the far side of Puget Sound, while the ferryboats come and go across Elliott Bay. It's a summer day, and the sun is shining. (Hey, as long as we're dreaming, why not dream big?) It just doesn't get much better than this, unless, of course, you swap the latte for a microbrew and catch a 9:30pm summer sunset. No wonder people love this town so much.

Okay, so the waterfront is as touristy as San Francisco's Fisherman's Wharf, but what a view! Seattle is a city of views, and for many visitors, the must-see vista is the panorama from the top of the Space Needle. With the 21st century in full swing, this image of the future may look decidedly 20th-century retro, but still, it's hard to resist an expensive elevator ride in any city. You can even take a monorail straight out of The Jetsons to get there (and, en route, pass right through the Frank Gehry-designed Experience Music Project).

EMP, as the Experience Music Project is known, is yet another of Seattle's handful of architectural oddities. Its swooping, multicolored, metal-skinned bulk rises at the foot of the Space Needle, proof that real 21st-century architecture looks nothing like the vision of the future people dreamed of when the Space Needle was built for the 1962 World's Fair. EMP was the brainchild of Microsoft cofounder Paul Allen, who built this rock 'n' roll cathedral to house his vast collection of Northwest rock memorabilia. After revenues from the rock museum failed to meet expectations, Allen even added a Science Fiction Museum and Hall of Fame (is this town a computer nerd's dream come true, or what?).

Paul Allen's money has also been hard at work changing the architectural face of the south end of downtown Seattle, which is where you'll find the state-of-the-art Qwest Field -- home to Allen's Seattle Seahawks NFL football team. Together with the Seattle Mariners' Safeco Field, Qwest Field has created a massive sports-arena district at the south end of downtown. Next up for Allen is the under-utilized yet very accessible area between downtown Seattle and Lake Union.

Allen projects aside, Seattle is, and has been for many years now, one of the nation's most talked-about and popular cities, and life here recently has undergone dramatic changes. An influx of urban residents has brought a new vibrancy to the downtown area; as the city has grown wealthier and more sophisticated, it has built itself not just a new football stadium and a retractable-roof baseball stadium but also a new opera house, a new and architecturally avant-garde main library, a new symphony hall, glittering new hotels, and countless upscale restaurants and shops. Still in the works are a controversial light-rail system and an extension of Seattle's monorail.

It's clear that Seattle has not grown complacent. Sure, it has traffic congestion to rival that of L.A. And, yes, the weather really is lousy for most of the year. But Seattleites manage to overcome these minor inconveniences, in large part by spilling out into the streets and parks whenever the sun shines. To visit Seattle in the summer is to witness an exodus; follow the lead of the locals and head for the great outdoors. Should you brave a visit in the rainy season, don't despair: There are compensations for such misfortune, including a roof on Pike Place Market and an espresso bar on every block.

Water, Water Everywhere...& Forests & Mountains, Too

Over the years, through Boeing's booms and busts, the rise and fall of grunge, the coming and going of Frazier, and the bursting of the high-tech bubble economy, one thing has stayed the same here in Seattle: the beautiful and wild landscape that surrounds the city. The sparkling waters of Elliott Bay, Lake Union, and Lake Washington wrap around this city of shimmering skyscrapers, and forests of evergreens crowd the city limits. Everywhere you look, another breathtaking vista unfolds. With endless boating opportunities, and beaches and mountains within a few hours' drive, Seattle is ideally situated for the outdoor pursuits that are so important to the fabric of life in the Northwest.

Few other cities in the United States are as immersed in the outdoor aesthetic as Seattle. The Cascade Range lies less than 50 miles to the east of downtown Seattle, and across Puget Sound stand the Olympic Mountains. In the spring, summer, and fall, the forests and mountains attract hikers, mountain bikers, anglers, and campers, while in winter, the ski areas of Snoqualmie Pass, Stephens Pass, and Crystal Mountain draw snowboarders and skiers.

Though impressive mountains line the city's eastern and western horizons, a glance to the southeast on a sunny day will reveal Seattle's most treasured sight -- Mount Rainier, a 14,410-foot-tall dormant volcano that looms large, so unexpected that it demands your attention. When "the Mountain is out," as they say here in Seattle, Seattleites head for the hills.

However, as important as "the Mountain" is to Seattle, it is water that truly defines the city's character. And I don't mean water falling from the sky. To the west lies Elliott Bay, an arm of Puget Sound; to the east is Lake Washington; and right in the middle of the city is Lake Union. With so much water all around, Seattle has become a city of boaters, who take to the water in everything from regally appointed yachts to slender sea kayaks. Consequently, the opening day of boating season has become one of Seattle's most popular annual festivals.

Despite Seattle's affinity for its nearby natural environment, this city is perhaps best known as the coffee capital of America. To understand Seattle's coffee addiction, it is necessary to study the city's geography and climate. Seattle lies at almost 50 degrees north latitude, which means that winter days are short. The sun comes up around 7:30am, goes down as early as 4:30pm, and is frequently hidden behind leaden skies. A strong stimulant is almost a necessity to get people out of bed through the gray days of winter. Seattleites love to argue over which espresso bar or cafe in town serves the best coffee (and the answer isn't always Starbucks, despite the famous coffee company's global expansion from its humble beginnings in Seattle's Pike Place Market).

So, pack your travel mug and your rain jacket, and, just for good measure, don't forget your sunglasses (who knows, you might get lucky). You can leave the suit and the Italian shoes at home; remember, this is a city that has turned casual Fridays into a way of life. Now, for a few more tips on how to get the most out of your visit to Seattle, peruse these listings of some of Seattle's best.

BEST FREE THINGS TO DO:

Taking in the Sunset from the Waterfront. On a clear summer day, the setting sun silhouettes the Olympic Mountains on the far side of Puget Sound and makes the view from the Seattle waterfront truly memorable. Try the rooftop park at the Bell Street Pier, Myrtle Edwards Park at the north end of the waterfront, or the lounge at the Edgewater Hotel.

Riding a Ferry Across Puget Sound. Sure, you could spend $20 or $30 for a narrated tour of the Seattle waterfront, but for a fraction of that, you can take a ferry to Bremerton or Bainbridge Island and see not just Elliott Bay but plenty more of Puget Sound. Keep an eye out for porpoises and bald eagles.

Relaxing Over a Latte. If the rain and gray skies start to get to you, there is no better pick-me-up (short of a ticket to the tropics) than a frothy latte in a cozy cafe. Grab a magazine and just hang out until the rain stops (maybe sometime in July).

Exploring a Waterfront Park. Seattle abounds with waterfront parks where you can gaze at distant shores, wiggle your toes in the sand, or walk through a remnant patch of old-growth forest. Some of my favorites include Discovery Park, Seward Park, Lincoln Park, and Golden Gardens Park.

Museum Hopping on First Thursday. On the first Thursday of each month, almost all of Seattle's museums are open late and most offer free admission for all or part of the day. Get an early start and be sure to check the opening and closing times of the museums. Talk about a great way to save bucks on your vacation!

Taking a Free Boat Ride on Lake Union. For a couple of hours each Sunday afternoon, the Center for Wooden Boats, which is located on Lake Union, offers free boat rides in classic wooden sailboats. You can watch noisy floatplanes landing and taking off as you sail silently across the waves.

The Most Unforgettable Travel Experiences:

Eating Your Way through Pike Place Market. Breakfast at Le Panier, espresso at what was once the only Starbucks in the world, lunch at Café Campagne, a martini at The Pink Door, dinner at Chez Shea, Celtic music at Kells, and a nightcap at Il Bistro -- that's how you could spend a day at Pike Place. Between stops on this rigorous itinerary, you can people-watch, listen to street musicians, and shop for everything from fresh salmon to tropical fruits to magic tricks to art glass.

Joining the Underground: Rome has its catacombs, Paris has its sewers, and Seattle has its underground. Now, some people, including my own brother, think I'm nuts for enjoying the Seattle Underground tour, but corny sewer jokes aside, this tour is fascinating and a great introduction to the seamier side of Seattle's early history.

Spending an Afternoon in the Ballard Neighborhood: Watch the salmon climb the fish ladders and swim past viewing windows at the Hiram M. Chittenden Locks. Have a meal at Ray's Boathouse, keeping an eye out for bald eagles. Finish off this outing with a stroll along the beach at Golden Gardens Park.

Taking a Cruise: Seattle is best seen from a boat, and there are plenty of vessels that will take you out on the water. Personally, I prefer sailboat outings from the waterfront, but for a more informative and diverse excursion, take the Argosy Cruises tour from Lake Union to the waterfront. If you don't mind flaunting the fact that you're a tourist, there's the daffy Seattle Duck Tour.

An Outing to Volunteer Park. Whether the day is sunny or gray, this park on Capitol Hill is a great spot to spend an afternoon. You can relax in the grass, study Chinese snuff bottles in the Seattle Asian Art Museum, marvel at the orchids in the conservatory, or simply enjoy the great view of the city from the top of the park's water tower.

Riding the Water Taxi to Alki Beach. The water taxi that operates between the Seattle waterfront and Alki Beach, on the far side of Elliott Bay, is practically the cheapest boat ride you can take in Seattle. Once you get to Alki Beach, you can dine with a killer view of the Seattle skyline and then go for a walk or bike ride on the beachfront path.

Adding Your Contribution to the Gum Wall. Hey, when your gum has lost its flavor, don't just spit it out on the sidewalk; instead, turn it into al fresco art by adding it to the "Gum Wall," Pike Place Market's self-adhesive display of ABC (already been chewed) art.

Making Music Even if You Can't Carry a Tune in a Bucket. Even the musically challenged can make beautiful music (well, sort of) at a couple of unusual Seattle attractions. At the Experience Music Project, you can let your inner rock 'n' roller go wild on simulated musical instruments, while at the Soundbridge Seattle Symphony Music Discovery Center, fans of classical music can play a cello or conduct an orchestra.

Counting Salmon at Ballard's Chittenden Locks. If you find yourself sleepless in Seattle, forget about counting sheep. Try counting salmon. In fact, even if you aren't suffering from insomnia, during the summer, the fish ladder and underwater viewing windows at the Hiram M. Chittenden Locks are great places to count salmon.

Believing It or Not at Ye Olde Curiosity Shop. Two-headed calves, the Lord's Prayer on a grain of rice, a human mummy. These are just some of the unbelievable items on display at Ye Olde Curiosity Shop, Seattle's waterfront temple of the bizarre.

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June 16, DH, mom, dad and I were in Seattle.

Walked along the waterfront...rode the ferry to Bainbridge Island (didn't even get off, just enjoyed the harbor views), then walked from the ferry dock (Pier 52) to/through Pike's Place Market (and the park at the waterfront). Mom has back trouble, and that's about as much as she could take. We still walked back to our starting point... ate at Ivar's (the walk-up counter) and watched the Golden Princess sail by. We then walked back to our hotel.

We should have used the bus. The downtown area has a free ride Metro bus system until 7 pm.

 

On June 24, we purchased a tour through the ship to help get our luggage to the airport. The tour took us to the Space Needle and Pike's Place Market. On this day, we saw even more of the Market than we saw the first time.

 

Lots to do! Enjoy your visit. There are several helpful locals who frequent this board as well.

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Aaauuck! - Someone rode the ferry to our beautiful island and didn't get off. They missed the little grocery in the middle of town that makes my Atlanta based brother drool.... 15+ mustards, a wide assortment of basalmic vinegars, custom made sandwiches. They missed the island made ice creams - my favorite is wine and walnut... when my chocolate yen doesn't take me to one of the many choices.... in a gluten-free cone, thank you very much.

 

They missed the fudge, the Thai restaurant that we call home and a lazy stroll along our waterfront. On Saturdays they miss our Farmer's Market - no goat cheese

 

Worst of all, if you are in Seattle on the 6th or 7th of July and fail to stop at Bainbridge, you would miss the HUGE Rotary Auctions and Rummage Sale. We fill a school and run over into two parking lots. Folks come every year from Boston and South Carolina for this event. People who see it for the first time are speechless (they are too busy shopping).:)

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The ferry was our first stop because our walk from our hotel led straight to that pier, but we didn't know what we wanted to do. A State Trooper was walking down the walkway and passed us. My father got to talking with him a little, and he suggested the ferry ride over to Bainbridge. (The Bremerton Ferry had just pulled out.) He didn't tell us what was over there! He said, "You can just ride over and back if you want." Since we didn't know where we were going, really, we just enjoyed the ferry ride...

 

Sorry, cruznut1111. I'll do my best to do better next time!

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Aaauuck! - Someone rode the ferry to our beautiful island and didn't get off. They missed the little grocery in the middle of town that makes my Atlanta based brother drool.... 15+ mustards, a wide assortment of basalmic vinegars, custom made sandwiches. They missed the island made ice creams - my favorite is wine and walnut... when my chocolate yen doesn't take me to one of the many choices.... in a gluten-free cone, thank you very much.

 

They missed the fudge, the Thai restaurant that we call home and a lazy stroll along our waterfront. On Saturdays they miss our Farmer's Market - no goat cheese

 

Worst of all, if you are in Seattle on the 6th or 7th of July and fail to stop at Bainbridge, you would miss the HUGE Rotary Auctions and Rummage Sale. We fill a school and run over into two parking lots. Folks come every year from Boston and South Carolina for this event. People who see it for the first time are speechless (they are too busy shopping).:)

 

I live in downtown Seattle and I ride the ferry to Bainbridge every so often just for the ferry ride and do not get off on your beautiful island.:) As I always say...cheapest boat ride of puget sound in the city:) I will wave at you next time:)

 

Shelley

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I live in Seattle. There is a nice tour on a WWII amphibious craft called the Duck. It does a land and water tour of Seattle. They give you this cute yellow duck callers to blow when you are on the tour. Everyone I see when driving down the road seems to be having a great time.

 

here is their website.

 

http://www.ridetheducksofseattle.com

 

Shelley

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I live in Seattle. There is a nice tour on a WWII amphibious craft called the Duck. It does a land and water tour of Seattle. They give you this cute yellow duck callers to blow when you are on the tour. Everyone I see when driving down the road seems to be having a great time.

 

here is their website.

 

http://www.ridetheducksofseattle.com

 

Shelley

 

Most of the people that I have talked to who have "Rode the Ducks" really enjoyed it. I have never done it myself either but it does always look like they are having a great time.:D

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