Brilliance in the Med. 22 June-4 July 08 Barcelona/Venice/Barcelona (long) ITINERARY

[Jacques O]

BRILLIANCE OF THE SEAS CRUISE IN THE MEDITERRANEAN SEA

Barcelona/ Venice/ Barcelona.

22 June - 4 July 2008

 

 

Here is a report of our recent cruise on Royal Caribbean’s “Brilliance of the Seas” in the Med.

 

To sum it up, we had a wonderful time!. We enjoyed the ship very much indeed, as well as the itinerary, that included calls at one of the best ports of the Western Mediterranean Sea.

 

The review is two-fold.

 

The first part is about the itinerary (the places we called at, the things we did, monuments we visited, etc….)

The second part is about the ship (food, service, cabin, entertainment, passengers, etc….).

I hope you find this review informative.

As usual… it’s a bit long. But as the text is structured by paragraph, you can just read those that interest you best.

 

 

Enjoy!

 

If you have any question, I'll be pleased to give you answers, when ever possible.

 

 

Jacques O, Paris.

 

FIRST PART: ITINERARY

 

 

Background

 

 

This cruise, early in the summer season, was not programmed. Originally, I had planned a cruise in Norway. We had had such a hot weather on the Royal Princess in the Med last year in the latter part of July, that we had decided to go where the climate is mild!

 

Came across a very good offer on Cunard’s new Queen Victoria, for a 12 day-cruise up to North Cape, departing Southampton on 6th July. But prices of transportation 7 weeks prior to departure from Paris to London was, in my view, too high (specially on the Eurostar, the high speed train linking Paris/ Brussels to London, which tariffs are now rather extortionate). Besides, if prefer travelling by train than by air.

 

Never mind, I had also seen a very good offer on Century's Celebrity, to North Cape, too, for 12 days from Amsterdam, departing 4th July. I had 'pre-booked' a Thalys train ticket from Paris to Amsterdam, for a fair price… and let time go… and when it was time to book the cruise, price per person had gone up by 600 USD or so! Making it beyond our budget! So much for procrastinating.

 

So, in spite of my disappointment, I looked for an alternative. I had to take into account my holiday time at work; late June/ early July was the available slot.

 

After loads of research, and taken into account the cost of travelling to and back from the port, the ‘fitting’ alternative was a 12-day cruise on BOTS (Brilliance of the Seas), out of Barcelona... leaving on 22nd June... Maybe a bit early in the season.... and just two months after our coming back from the MSC Poesia. But I won't complain too much. The price was good for this particular sailing.

 

I was travelling with my mother, who enjoys going on cruises very much! We also intended to stay one day one day prior to the cruise in Barcelona, a great city.

 

 

 

ITINERARY – PORT OF CALLS.

 

 

 

Barcelona – one-day stay prior to the cruise

 

We flew to Barcelona on Saturday 21st June, in morning (9:30 am flight or so). Although we had arrived at the airport on time, we almost missed the flight, because the queue at the counter we were indicated to get in line did not move (it turned out to be the queue for flights to Roma, where there was a strike from the staff handling luggage). In the end, we explained with insistence the situation to a staff member and were led to a desk to be checked in, just a couple of minutes before the flight check-in closing….”Air Chance”, it certainly was!

 

In Barcelona, we went to our hotel by taxi, and the driver did his best not to take the shortest way…. It was a real rip off. But as I don’t speak Spanish or Catalan, and as they don’t speak either French or English, it was a lost cause! And he charged us twice for the ‘pick up’ fee, pretending it was a week-end day! Rubbish!

 

Anyway, our hotel (ABBA hotel, 4-star, very close to San Estaçion) was very luxurious. Compact room, but well appointed, and fitted with proper A/C and a nice large bathroom. Plus nice breakfast (all for 120 euros, a good bargain).

 

We spent some time in a district of the old town – Barceloneta, where we had lunch in one of those restaurants, alongside a big avenue opposite the marina, close to the Museum of the History of Catalonia. Nice lunch…! With sea food and wine! Visited the aforementioned museum (very interesting), and later, San Maria del Mar, of fine Gothic style, dating back from the late 13th century. Interestingly, this spacious cathedral was built within a 50-year period – a short length in those days! Hence, its homogenous architecture. In the evening, we had dinner in another restaurant of the sea front where we had lunch. Then, we made our way back on foot to the Ramblas, the famous thoroughfare of Barcelona, before heading back by metro to our hotel that we reached after midnight. It had been a long, quite tiring but rewarding day.

 

 

The following day, Sunday 22nd June, we went to Montjuic hill, and revisited the museum of the Catalan arts, visited last year, but we wanted to see again the section dedicated to the roman art – again, an excellent museum. Later, we walked towards the fortress of Montjuic… and took the new telephérique (cable car) (expensive, but so efficient), to get near the foot of the fortress (glad we did it, because it was quite a distance and it was quite hot too!). No time to visit the fortress, unfortunately, but enough time spent looking over the cruise ships in the big ship basins, just at the foot of the hill! The view –towards the city or the harbour- was very impressive. Weather was warm and clear.

 

Then, we came back to the hotel, and picked up our luggage and travelled by taxi to the cruise terminal, where we checked in at about 5:30 pm. Brilliance of the Sea’s departure was scheduled at 7 pm. So, most of the “guests” were already on board. Was great to just turn up at the check-in counter and board straight away! No hassle what ever! Then, at about 6:10 pm, I went ashore to take photos…. But the security staff at the gangway made me understood I had to be back by 6:30 pm!

 

 

Ship’s itinerary

 

 

Weather was excellent throughout… and very hot! I certainly missed the meadows, the forest, and the waterfalls and cascades of Norway! Warm it was, and sometimes at night, it felt quite humid…. There was mist at times…. And the ship’s fog horn had to be used! Quite amusing and peculiar!

 

My mother had been to all the places we called at in the past, whereas for me, there were two calls that I didn’t know: Cannes and Split. It’s always great to sail in the Med and visit wonderful places like Naples, Venice, Rome, and Valetta.

 

We usually do not take excursions from the ships. We visit on our own… We prepare our excursions in advance (after having gathered information through travel guides, internet sites, etc.). And try to stick to our plan. We take the public transport, or just walk (a lot), whenever possible. In Italy, it’s easy and cheap to buy a one-day pass for the public transport, which works rather well.

 

 

In cannes(23 June), whose shore were reached by tender, we travelled by bus to Antibes. Unfortunately, the fortress there, “Fort Vauban” and its park were closed that day, being a Monday. We were in France, after all! Just had a pleasant stroll into town, by the marinas, where there are some fine and expensive yachts…. In the old town, we topped at a café where I drank some absinthe – a drink that has reappeared recently... I sampled its rather pungent but distinctive and quite unusual taste! Very nice! We also visited the old but charming “Church of the Immaculate Conception”, whose actual construction dates back from the mid 18th century. It houses a notable altar-painting "The Madonna with Rosary” from 1515 by Louis Bréa, a noted local artist, as well as two very old wood representations of Christ.

 

Back to Cannes, we walked down the sea front, enjoying the view of the famous hotels, of fine architecture (mainly art deco), like the “Martinez”, “Majestic”, “Carlton”, which echo so much glamour from the past.…

 

 

In Livorno (24 June), we took the train to Pisa, which is quite close.

 

We travelled from the ship to Livorno train station by taxi (fixed price: 20 euros), because the port bus does not drop people off at the station, but into the centre of town instead. Find some fellow passengers with whom to share the taxi (or even the mini vans).

 

Our first visit in Pisa was that of an unusual chapel, now a museum: Santa Maria del Spina (spina = thorn) on the bank of the river Arno. It’s a fine and wonderful example of Gothic architecture dating from 1230. Interestingly, the church was rebuilt on a higher level in the 1870’s because of infiltration of water from the river (and was partially altered in the rebuilding process).

 

Then we walked to the site of the “Campo dei Miracoli”, also called “piazza del Duomo”, so well known for it famous buildings standing on green fields (making a wonderful sight). The place was very busy, but as it large, there is room for every one. We visited the church (Duomo), the baptistery, the Campo Santo (the old cemetery), as well as the Museo del Opera. Indeed, the most interesting buildings are the Duomo and the baptistery, elegant and well proportioned buildings – specially the Baptistery- made with marble stones, dating back from the 12th century. There is a combined ticket (10 Euros for these four buildings). We did not visit the famous leaning tower (for which there is a specific entrance fee of 15 E.). I had walked up to its top two years before, during a cruise on Pullmantur’s Oceanic. Not that I fancied doing it again, because it is quite a steep rise, and when it’s hot, you might feel giddy!…

 

I had managed to get a list of two recommended traditional restaurants/ trattoria, but they were closed! Pitty! So, we had an ice cream and caffé latté at a shop close to the station. I got to like caffé latté very much during our calls in Italy!

 

Some people from the cruise ships go to Firenze. I don’t really fancy that idea, because the distance from Livorno is great and it takes a while by train… and there is so much to visit there, that one day is certainly not sufficient. Pisa is perfect, because you can do the whole town within the day - on foot.

 

 

Roma (25 June)was easilyreached by train (we took the 8h41 one at Civitavecchia arriving at Roma Termini at 9h50). We first visited the church of Santa Maria degli Angeli e dei Martiri (English: St. Mary of the Angels and the Martyrs); close to Termini Station. It is quite an amazing construction, since it is built within the remains of the Terms of Diocletian. It has therefore not the dimension or the plan of a ‘standard’ church. The “construction” took place in the 15th century, and was later revamped in 17th century.

 

Later, we made our way to San Pietro in Vincoli (Saint Peter in Chains), the basilica, well know for being the home of Michelangelo's magnificent large statue of Moses (dated from 1515).

Next we took the bus for the “Via Appia Antica”, one of the Roman “via” –access road- connecting the centre of Rome to major commercial cities of Italy. We stopped at one of the Catacombs sites (which are almost in the country side, and only 20 mn or so from Roma!). We visited the Catacombs of San Sebastian (a vast underground cemetery organized on several levels for the Christians of Roma dating back to the mid 3rd century AD), as well as the basilica dedicated to this saint.

 

That day, some people who stopped at St Pietro (St Peter), and visited the site of the basilica had the chance to spot the Pope in St Peter’s square, since that day was a Wednesday, which is when the pope addresses the public. I missed that moment.

 

Two important points about your visit in Roma now. You have to be lucky or organized when visiting monuments –my remark applies mainly to churches- because they are usually closed at round lunch time. So, be prepared for some inconvenience or change of itinerary. In addition, there is little information about buses. You can’t get a map, unless you buy it a new agent (street map and buses routes guide for about 5 euros – really worth the money, as might avoid stress and waste of time), because bus-stops don’t display a map of the network. Not too practical, is it?

 

 

In Naples(26 June), which was a full day call, we first visited “San Carlo Theatre”. It is located within 20 mn walking distance from the Maritime station, in the vicinity of the Castel Nuevo, the massive fortress you see from the ship, just across the sea front boulevard. Visits are organised on certain days, and I had made enquiries prior to the cruise and on that day, tours were organized. It’s a very interesting building. Its one of the largest theatres of its kind in Europe, seating theoretically 2900 people. The original construction dates from 1737, but was destroyed by fire in 1818 and rebuilt as identical. Apart from a few changes (change of draperies with new colours, installation of electricity), it’s very much as it was 2 centuries ago. Today’s regulations allow seating for only 1500 people. On the orchestra level and six levels of boxes!

 

Next we visited the Certosa di San Martino (Charterhouse in English / Chartreuse in French), built atop a hill just in front of the harbour, in the district of Vomero. It’s a vast monastery (now a museum), originally opened in the mid 14th century. It was expanded in the first part of the 17th century, and closed during the Napoleonic occupation in the early 19th century. The view from its location – and above all from that from the San Elmo fortress just above it on the hill- over the town, the bay and the harbour is breathtaking. Surely one of the best sights of the cruise I remember! I like Naples very much! The bay, with the Vesuvio (if it’s kind enough to make an appearance!) is awesome, magnificent and so welcoming.

 

Later, we pottered around into the old town, entering into a couple of churches. The most significant one was “San Severo”, famous for its sculptural artworks in marble, that include one of a resting Christ, covered by a veil (Christo Velato / veiled Christ) – a most stunning piece by San Martino from 1753.

 

Finally, we managed to pay just a quick visit to the Duomo, the city’s cathedral, because time was running out…. And we had to rush to get back to the cruise terminal!

 

Sailing took place slightly before 7:30 pm…. The navigation out of the bay of Naples, southwards, close to Capri and the Amalfi coast was splendid.

 

 

In Venice(28 & 29 June), we were extremely lucky as we docked ‘downtown’, and not at the Maritime station, which apparently was too busy. We arrived there in late morning, so nobody had any excuse for missing the sailing toward this famous lacustre city. It took about two hours from the passage of the breakwaters to the sailing up to the Guideca canal to the stazione maritima to swing in order to sail the canal down to get positioned for departure the next day – the bow in direction of the Adriatic sea. The sailing into Venice is wonderful, magical. A “must-be-done” in one’s life time!

 

We docked in the “Canal de San Marco”, almost opposite the maritime museum, close to the waterbus stop ‘arsenal’ (that’s about 800 meters St Marcus Square, on your way down from St Marcus in direction to say, the Lido). It would be a lie to pretend that the spot was not perfect! The view from where ever you were outdoor on the ship was just fantastic! Matched that of the most expensive hotels there, like the famous ‘Danielli’! Our cabin view was over the canal.

 

The call lasted almost one day and a half (a point that helped me decide choose this particular cruise). As we got off the ship, we made our way to the maritime museum…. I was very disappointed indeed, because it was “chusio” (closed). It’s open only in the morning, and it is closed on Sundays and Mondays… and we arrived at about noon on Saturday! We went to the Lido, from where there are great vantage points towards the city…. And the departing cruise ships! We spotted Splendour of the Seas on her way out. Later, we “sailed” to Murano, famous for its glass-making. It was then late afternoon, and the place was deserted, making it a rather unusual let alone unexpected atmosphere. Still, it would have been nice to visit a workshop….

 

In the evening, back to our “Venetian floating residence”, after eating some food at the after terrace of the Windjammer café, overlooking the city and the canal (yes, there are worse views…..), we strolled towards San Marco Square. There we enjoyed watching the small orchestras of the famous upscale caffés (Lavena and Florian) and listening to their music

 

The following day, our main visit was that of the big church (which we didn’t visit properly during out previous stay during our stay once the cruise on the MSC Poesia completed in April), “Basilica dei Frari” (Chiesa di Santa Maria Gloriosa Dei Frari). It is the biggest church of Venice, a Fransciscan church of fine Italian gothic style, built in bricks and completed in 1338.

 

The visit was helped by the use of audio phone. Among its treasures, it boasts famous paint works by masters like Tiziano (Titien), Donatello or Bellini. Interestingly, it also hosts the mausoleums of Canova and Tiziano, both large and impressible monuments of rather stern appearance!

 

We did not visit the Palazzo Ducale (Doge’s Palace), nor the Basilica San Marco, because there usually is too long a queue. I believe you can pre-book via internet. Next time, we’ll do that perhaps! Honestly, apart from these two sites, there is so much to do in Venice!

 

 

Indeed, we travelled a lot by Vaporetto –the ubiquitous water bus! It’s such a perfect way to move around the place (and the small islands), to discover the wonders of the city. You can buy a 24-hour pass for 16 Euros. Well worth the money, I can tell you. It also was fun to sail past BOTS to take dramatic photos of her starboard side.

 

We also enjoyed walking in the small streets, across small squares (called ‘campi’) free of any automobile traffic, walking above bridges or alongside canals, looking at the windows shops (they do have nice items to sell – no tacky stuff - and usually, the windows are very attractively displayed), “soaking up” the atmosphere of this unique and marvellous colourful city.

 

BOTS set sail slightly after 5 pm…. Of course, the sailing down the “laguna” to the Adriatic sea was yet another delightful moment.

 

 

Split (30 June), the next stop, was the second and last call by tender. Like in Cannes, tendering was no problem at all. We had to take a boat ticket and wait. When our number was called, we would go down to the tender station on deck 2 to board a shuttle. There was no queue, no jam. But we were not the first ‘independent’ passengers to go ashore.

 

We stayed in town… whose old part is built within the once palace of Diocletian, the Roman Emperor who made built his residence and fortified camp in the 4th century. Today, what remains are narrow cobble streets, pre-Romanesque churches that live alongside Gothic chapels and old buildings filled with history. This said, the well preserved peristyle square leads to the cathedral of St Duje (San Domnius), the Saint Patron of the city, built inside what used to be the mausoleum (shrine) of Emperor Diocletian. Next to it is a bell tower, from which top you get a great view over the old and recent town, the harbour. We visited both places, which are really worth it…. Specially the church bell tower…. Watch out if you are scared of height!

 

Next we dropped into the small but charming Temple of Jupiter and two good museums (all the better as there was hardly any visitor): the Ethnological and City ones, retracing the history of the area, its customs, the city’s evolution, etc. The most interesting was the City museum, housed in an old Gothic palace dating from the late 15th century.

 

Later, we visited the substructures of the ancient palace, which are very well preserved. They are basement chambers of impressive proportions. You can just feel how vast the whole place (Diocletian once palace) must have been. Besides, it was a relaxing visit as it was rather cool in those basements….

 

Have the local currency (the Kuna) at hand, for they do not accept euros. I had some Kuna, but hot enough. I found a bureau de change and changed 10 euros to get money to pay for the basement entrance fee.

 

Departure took place in 5 pm. First, at a slow pace along the shore for every one to enjoy the lovely scenery along the Croatian coast.

 

 

In Valetta (2 July), I made the effort to get up early, at about 6:30 am, to be present for the navigation to Malta and in particular, for the arrival into the “grand harbour”. I had missed it last year, during our cruise on the Royal Princess. The arrival into Malta’s harbour is not to be missed. Specially because in the morning the sun is shedding its light from the back of the ship towards the harbour, whereas in the evening, the sun is just in front of Valetta. Consequently, as far as photo opportunities and sightseeing are concerned, the best time is in the morning… So make the effort to get up. You will be rewarded! I enjoyed the arrival in the harbour, which is always a wonderful scenic moment.

 

We stayed in Valetta, which we reached on foot (not that it’s far away, but the road goes up… and when it’s hot…).

 

We first visited the Great Master’s Palace together with the Armoury. It was built about 500 years ago as the abode of the Grand Master of the Order of St John. Its fine and spacious interiors contain a series of paintings depicting the great siege of 1565, painted by a pupil of Michelangelo, and a group of tapestries originally designed for Louis XIV. The palace also houses an armoury which has one of the best collections in existence, featuring about 6000 pieces of various kinds!

 

Next was St John’s Cathedral. The Knights of St John who combined the careers of monk and soldier, were responsible for most of Valetta’s churches, the greatest being John's Co-Cathedral. It is described as the first complete example of the high baroque anywhere. The austere façade contrasts with the exuberant and lavish baroque interior, with its intricate carved stone walls, painted vaulted ceiling, colourful elaborated marble flooring, or elegant tapestries. It shows the Knights’ deep appreciation and patronage of culture and the arts The Cathedral houses also one of Europe’s most impressive and famous art works, Caravaggio’s Beheading of St John the Baptist (apparently the only work signed by the artist).

 

For both sites, you have to allow plenty of time, especially for the Cathedral, a gem!

 

Later in the afternoon, we walked in town, discovering areas where we had not been before. This was not our first call at Malta – I wish we had had time to visit the fine arts and the Archaeological museum.

 

It’s hot in Valetta – and Malta in general. There is hardly any greenery, and very few trees. It’s very dry, and heat can be really intense.

 

Last but not least, I managed to get a replica of the famous bird, the famous “falcon”, from the 1941 movie by John Huston “the Maltese falcon” featuring Humphrey Bogart and Sidney Greenstreet, from the eponymous detective story by Dashiel Hammet. I was so glad…. Actually, I bought two falcons, from two different shops. Last year, I did not manage to get one, and was gutted. This time, the aim of the call at Malta mainly was to get a falcon. The objective was met! What a relief! I’m pleased with myself!

 

 

The three full at sea during the cruise were uneventful. Nothing much to report. No ‘scenic’ navigation, for instance. Just a quiet navigation on a smooth sea….. It was indeed good to have a full day at see before reaching Barcelona, to help recuperate from the port intensive cruise (specially the first leg which was only excursion days!).

 

 

Barcelona (4 July):

The ship arrived very early (5 am or so).

 

We had breakfast at the cafeteria, on the after terrace. From there, I had the opportunity of watching the arrival and berthing of (large) cruise ships! It was amazing to see these behemoths evolve in the basin! It was fun to spot MSC Orchestra, the brand new Carnival Splendor on its positioning voyage from the Fincantieri shipyard near Genoa to Dover, Coast Magica, Additionally, the tiny but sleek Coral from Luis cruise sailed past to dock into the city harbour, providing such a contrast!

 

 

As we were independent travellers, we took our time, but we disembark shortly before 9 am. We easily picked up our luggage into the functional and almost brand new cruise terminal. Outside, we waited a bit for the taxi to the airport… took a while to get there, as the traffic was terrible! At the air France counter, things went well, and although our luggage was quite heavy – well above the limit! – we did not get a penalty! Our flight was not until 1pm, so we waited patiently – it was OK because the airport is not too large, clean and well organised. The flight back to Paris was uneventful. From the airport there, to get to my place it took a while by taxi; the traffic was terrible, because of traffic jams, accidents, road works, etc. Welcome home!

 

 

We spotted quite a lot of cruise ships. Biggest or interesting ones :

 

Barcelona : 2 Navigators series + Norwegian gem + Ocean Dream + Musica + Carnival Splendor (on her maiden repositioning to Dover from Italy), Coral.

Livorno :Noordam, Crystal serenity (?)

Naples : Legend of the Seas + Bleu de France (new ship for the French market – former Pullmantur’s Holiday Dream).

Civitavecchia : Oriana + Grand Celebration (former Carnival Celebration) + Noordam + Pacific Princess + Tahitian Princess (?) (a sister ship of Pacific Princess anyway).

Venize : Costa Serena + Emeral Princess + Msc Musica + Msc Poesia + Splendour of the seas + Seabourn Spirit + Sea Dream I

Valetta : Ocean Dream (Pullmantur) + MSC Rapsody.

Split : Belle de l’Adriatique

 

*****

To be continued with the seconde part, on the ship itself.

[nellydean]

Sacre bleu! if you are French then your English is fantastique! :)

 

Great review of the port destinations, look forward to reading about the ship, especially as we will be sailing her next summer on a fairly similar itinerary (except Dubrovnik and Corfu)

[marci22]

Lovely review. Congratulations on no luggage penalty! Looking forward to the ship review.