Live Blogging from Veendam in Alaska May 30 - June 7

[mamadot]

We were on the Veendam for 17 days before you boarded and I think I had all 50 of the salmon recipes! Lucious! The entertainment was fabulous and we really enjoy the beautiful strings in the Explorer Lounge every evening!! Enjoy!!

[Erica@cruisecritic]

Here are three photos from today:

 

1. Veendam's new aft balconies

2. A sunny day in Ketchikan (note the float plane)

3. And for anyone whoever complained about cruise ship bathrooms, here's a photo of the men's bathroom in Dolly's House

[Erica@cruisecritic]

When I returned to my cabin today at noon, I found a note from the Greenhouse Spa, advertising a Ladies' Night package. For $119, I could have a back massage, scalp massage, aromatherapy facial and foot and ankle massage for an hour and 15 minutes, plus receive a spa gift. Now originally I had booked a 50-minute massage for today for the same price, but this new offer sounded a lot more interesting and a better deal, to boot. I called the spa and asked what the penalty would be to switch my treatment, and they said that as long as I wasn't canceling altogether, I could switch free of charge. So spa night will be tomorrow at 8:45 p.m.

Instead of my massage, I tried out the Thermal Suite instead. The suite features a Turkish steam room, an aromatherapy steam room, a hot tub, two showers and five tiled, heated lounge beds. I'm not a Thermal Suite connoisseur, so I started with the steam rooms because I wanted a view when the ship departed in half an hour or so. I couldn't really tell the difference between the Turkish and aromatherapy steam rooms except the Turkish one was bigger (I could lie down) and the aromatherapy one was smaller (two people could sit comfortably, four might be a squeeze). In between, I experimented with the showers. The regular shower head didn't seem to have cold water, but there was a button to press that released a lovely cold mist. There was also a hose with cold water, but I had no idea what to do with that other than start a water fight with the person in the next shower.

Next stop, hot tub, which was warm and bubbling. I gazed at the mountains looming over Ketchikan and watched apprehensively as more people started claiming the heated beds. I snagged the last one. The beds don’t seem that special at first, except that they're contoured to keep your knees nicely bent, but after a while the heap starts to seep through the towels and your body gets all relaxed and mellow. I was definitely dozing off when I realized the ship had started moving.

My only real complaint about the Thermal Suite is that there's a deck located right outside it. So not only do the walls of the deck block most of your view when you're lying on a sunbed or soaking in the hot tub, but there are people milling about right outside, which is a bit discomfiting. The glass is tinted so it's difficult to see in, and everyone in the suite is clothed, but it just feels a little bit like you're in a fish bowl. Also, a sign says to only use the beds for 30 minutes at a time when people are waiting; I'm not sure how well that's enforced as the other spa guests dozed off for longer than a half hour.

By the way, if you're looking for a Finnish dry sauna, you'll find them in the locker rooms. (I may have said steam room earlier, but apparently there's a difference.) The rules posted outside the sauna seemed quite strict: Don’t go in alone. Shower first. Don’t stay longer than 15 minutes. So I may try that later when I'm with a friend.

[Erica@cruisecritic]

So there is BJ, Roulette and craps. If you have a chance, could you report back what my other options will be to donate to the Veendam table games? I am just thinking of how much I have saved already by not having LIR to donate to.

Thanks for all the great info on the Veendam.

 

Um, are there are any other table games? I'm not a casino person so I don't know the ins and outs, but I saw poker, blackjack and roulette and a lot of slot machines.

[lovebug33]

We are going the opposite way as you (Seward to Vancouver). Can you find out when the formal nights are on that sailing, if that's not too much to ask?

[Loves to dance]

Hi Erica,

 

Is there a naturalist on board the Veendam? If so, is he/she any good?

 

Are announcements being made about wildlife sightings?

 

We have heard that the doors to the lanai rooms are hosed down at 5:30AM. Has that been your experience?

 

I am so glad to hear that you are having a good time, and that things seem to be much improved aboard the Veendam, as compared to a month ago.

 

Thanks!

[Host Walt]

This thread was just copied over to the HAL board. All posts that appear on this board prior to this post were copied over to HAL; the posts after this post will be unique to the Alaska board.

[HinesL]

Hay, Tommy Girl, we are on a Veendam cruise in August. Ours leave August 9 and not August 8. At least I hope I have that right:D. Better go check. I also drink caffeine coffee!!

 

We are so excited about this trip!!;)

 

Elaine

[Erica@cruisecritic]

Sometimes it pays to listen to the captain's announcements over the ship's P.A. system. As we were departing Ketchikan, Captain P.J. told everyone that starting at 7 p.m. we'd be sailing through an area where whales were active. So I requested a table in the Rotterdam dining room with a view out the window so I could look for wildlife as I dined on tofu and rice.

Lo and behold, the captain knows what he's talking about! At about 7:30 p.m., as if on cue, we saw the first spout. That was followed by a back and a tail, and a lot of finger pointing and excited yammering in the dining room. Minutes later, another whale appeared, this one doing belly rolls because we saw first one fin and then the other, over and over again as if the whale were rolling down a hill. We also spotted a pair of bald eagles chasing each other by the shoreline.

Now if only we could spot a bear…

[Erica@cruisecritic]

Holland America, as many of you know, offers both assigned and open-seating dining. I'm on the anytime dining plan, but actually had dinner reservations the first two nights. So last night, it was time to test out how well Veendam's walk-in system works. A man in the Crow's Nest the night before was telling horror stories about a 7:30 p.m. rush during our day at sea, where everyone showed up for dinner at the same time causing hourlong waits. He said people were turned away from the dining room.

My experience wasn't nearly that bad. I showed up at 6:30 p.m. and requested a table for two, preferably near a window. The maitre d' responded that only four tables were available and all of those were 10-tops. My dinner companion and I would have to share a table with others, but luckily there were some seats with views, even if the tables themselves weren't right by the windows. At least we got a seat, but I could see how if you don't show up right at the beginning of dinner service, it's a gamble as to what type of table you can get.

Only one other couple was seated at our table, so at least we didn't have to wait for eight other people to order and be served, which can slow down the meal. Dinner took an hour and a half, shaving an hour off the Pinnacle Grill's time. Food again was quite good -- we only chose two courses, a starter (salad with mandarins and pecans for me, Caesar for my friend) and a main (tofu and rice for me, one of the special salmon dishes for her). It was great to have a substantial vegetarian dish with protein, vegetables, flavor and an interesting presentation (bizarre bubbly noodles on top of the dish gave it a fancier look) -- onboard chefs often create dishes that look nice but aren't very filling. The salmon dishes continue to be excellent, and it sets the right atmosphere to be eating local fish in Alaska.

I also appreciated that the waiter took our dessert orders while the other couple was slowly finishing their main courses, so our dinner wouldn't be extended because of strangers.

Ultimately, open seating dining is closer to walking into a popular restaurant on a Saturday night without reservations than it is to eating at the time and table of your choice. With open seating, you will get a seat, usually close to the time you want, but there's no guarantee you'll get the table size you want or that you won't have to wait a little bit. If that's a problem, you can always make a reservation the day of -- or request assigned seating dining.

[Erica@cruisecritic]

Nightlife on ships often depends on two key factors: the crowd and the destination. On Caribbean cruises, the nightlife spots swing until the wee hours; in Europe, everyone is in bed by 10 p.m. I wasn't sure how Alaska would be, especially with Holland America's more mature crowd.

Based on the past two evenings, I'd say that Veendam's bars are hopping from pre-dinner cocktail hour until about 10:30 or 11 p.m. Then things start to slow down until midnight when Deck 8 (featuring the Mix and the casino) is completely empty. The Crow's Nest will have a few stragglers into the early hours.

On the sea day, I enjoyed listening to the Neptunes playing oldies but goodies in the Ocean Bar. Although I was sitting in the atrium talking with friends, my toes kept tapping, and when I peeked in, several couples were showing off their moves on the dance floor. The Crow's Nest was dominated by the under-40s, and the DJ was playing today's dance favorites. Thank goodness, he wasn't playing the bad 70's hits that were so prevalent on my last trip.

Last night was round one of Veendam's American Idol competition. Seven contestants competed for six spots in round two by singing karaoke tunes of their choice. The judges included Joy, the party planner, and Jimmy, the cruise director who was channeling Simon Cowell. The singers were so-so, but their pre- and post-performance comments were often hilarious (after several song dedications, one contestant dedicated her performance to alcohol, since her tipsy rendition of a country song the previous night had won her a spot in today's show). The judges' comments tended to be about the singers' fashion (one judge gave extra points to anyone wearing glasses) and song choice (Jimmy chastised everyone who chose a country song), and kindly avoided a discussion of musical ability. I think I might skip round two and wait for the finals.

But the most fun part of the evening was chilling in Mix with a girly martini, listening to Piano Man Dave at the piano bar. He went through the typical piano bar classics ("Brown-Eyed Girl," "Joy to the World," "Italian Restaurant"), but without the annoying calls for "socials" (where everyone must drink together) and soliciting for tips that make some cruise-ship piano bars less fun for the mostly sober. He had a great voice and did poor yet comical imitations of famous singers. He doesn’t have a song list, so come prepared with requests; he gamely met our challenges of Queen's "Bohemian Rhapsody" and Johnny Cash's "Ring of Fire."

And now I can proudly say that I partied until 1 a.m. on a Holland America ship. How many people can say that?!

[Erica@cruisecritic]

Today I'm paddling around Mendenhall Lake in a 12-person native canoe to see glaciers. We're in port until 10 p.m. and hopefully there will be time to explore more of Juneau before it's time for dinner and the spa! I'll update you all when I can.

 

BTW, from the ship's promenade, I can already see a whole line of tour operator booths, and I'll go see what's on sale. A shuttle to the glacier is $7, city tour $20 and city tour with glacier viewing $27.

 

And it's still warm and sunny!

[Bryan&Roger]

Eica. Bryan and Roger here. If you recall, we were discussing Azamara last week. We leave the UK on Sunday for NYC then Alaska on Tuesday. We're doing land first then the cruise south on Island Princess. We have enjoyed reading your blog. Thanks for this. It will be our first Alaska and you're making it even better for us.

 

Now if only we could spot a bear…

 

That is the main reason I am on this cruise. Bears. Being from NYC, the only animals we see are two legged. ha.

Thanks again,

Bryan and Roger :D

[Bryan&Roger]

Eica. Bryan and Roger here. If you recall, we were discussing Azamara last week. We leave the UK on Sunday for NYC then Alaska on Tuesday. We're doing land first then the cruise south on Island Princess. We have enjoyed reading your blog. Thanks for this. It will be our first Alaska and you're making it even better for us.

 

Now if only we could spot a bear…

 

That is the main reason I am on this cruise. Bears. Being from NYC, the only animals we see are two legged. ha.

Thanks again,

Bryan and Roger :D

 

 

Sorry. ERICA

[Largotraveler]

I have enjoyed reading this post. My husband and I returned from Holland America's Statendam Cruisetour last week and it was exhilirating! Erica, you're being very through, and if I have any recommendations it would be to check out the Suite Cabins and its amenities. We splurged and felt the added space in our cabin (hubby is in wheelchair), the double balcony, and the extras for suite guests (Neptune Lounge on Statendam) were well worth the additional price. Have a wonderful time.

 

P.S. Saw a black bear, and all kinds of whales and wildlife on the Kenai Fjords boat tour in Seward. I'm attaching my photo of Mt. McKinley taken 5/15 on the McKinley Explorer train ride from Denali to Anchorage. We were so blessed with great weather!

[tommygirl1]

Hay, Tommy Girl, we are on a Veendam cruise in August. Ours leave August 9 and not August 8. At least I hope I have that right:D. Better go check. I also drink caffeine coffee!!

 

We are so excited about this trip!!;)

 

Elaine

 

I am so excited that I am trying to get on the ship a day early! :D

I can't figure out how to go back and edit the date on my signature.:o

[HinesL]

I am so excited that I am trying to get on the ship a day early! :D

I can't figure out how to go back and edit the date on my signature.:o

 

 

Well I meant I drink caffiene free coffee:confused::D

[rox1234]

I've heard from many people who have done Alaskan cruies that it is a good idea to buy water proof (gortex) jackets and shoes. We went to Bass Pro tonight and spent $400 for 2 jackets and 2 pairs of shoes for our cruise in July! Is this really necessary?

[lovebug33]

I'm not Erica, but I wouldn't pay 400 bucks for all of that. Are you ever going to use it again? We are going into it with the knowledge that our 40 dollar shoes might be ruined and are buying the dollar ponchos that are throwawayable.

[judynorth]

The Gortex jackets that we bought have come in very handy here at home. I used mine tonight. They also made the second and third trips to AK much more enjoyable than the first. We never got wet even in heavy rain. Also since Gortex is breathable we didn't sweat under the jacket. Much more pleasant than minyl or plastic which makes you just as wet under the jacket/poncho as outiside. As for the waterproof shoes, I bought them for the last trip and never put them on my feet. Still haven't. I'm not sure why I bought them since I didn't need them on the first 2 trips. :confused: If you plan to do a lot of serious hiking on your own you might want them but for most excursions (glacier treks, rafting, etc.) boots are provided if needed.

[kimba45]

As it seems you are solo on this voyage Erica; please hawk the family/children status on this excursion and let us know (as I will be bringing ours with us in July - our first crusie ever) the places that allow children to enjoy the views and evening time. Obviously children are not allowed in the bars but are they allowed in the Crow's Nest to have hot chocolate, watch the views, and hang with older family members?.....any other places for evening relaxing for children and family? Thanks for your energy and time to do this blog...it really is helpful....The Wrights

[Erica@cruisecritic]

Juneau's waterfront is dotted with kiosks hawking tours, everything from city tours to glacier visits, flightseeing, fishing trips and salmon bakes. I spoke with one of the reps and picked up some interesting tidbits.

--Tour operators man those booths well into the afternoon, so if you're thinking of arranging an excursion day of, you don't have to worry too much about your tour of choice selling out. However ,it's best to go in the morning to have the greatest selection of trips and departure times.

--Purchasing tours off the ship can save you at least 10 percent, if not more. The man I spoke with could sell me a helicopter trip that included a glacier landing and dogsled ride for $450 per person (and mentioned it could be negotiated as low as $410). The same tour on our cruise ship sells for $569. So not only is it OK to wait to book your tour, but go ahead and haggle. If that rep won't meet your price, see if the other five sitting next to him will accept your bid.

--Juneau has so many cruise ship berths that tour kiosks can be found in several locations. The visitor information center by Berth D also sells tickets for certain day trips, so include it in your price comparison.

[Erica@cruisecritic]

My first and only shore excursion this week was today's canoeing trip on Mendenhall Lake. I'd hiked by Mendenhall Glacier on a previous cruise and now wanted to see Juneau's main attraction from a different vantage point.

Once again, Alaska weather was sunny and hot, which led to an interesting dilemma -- what to wear. The tour description says to dress warmly and bring extra socks, but how much colder could it possibly be by the glacier? I opted for hiking pants, a long-sleeved shirt, baseball hat and a fleece jacket and gloves thrown into my backpack. Turns out, I didn't need them.

The guide piled the eight canoeists in a van and drove us about 25 minutes to the lake. The "native-style" canoe (as it was called on Holland America's Web site) looked like a regular fiberglass canoe to me. After a safety briefing (brief was the operative word here), we donned life jackets, grabbed oars and climbed aboard. Note to future canoeists -- if you're right handed, sit on the right side of the boat if you can (left side for south paws). It makes paddling so much easier, especially if you're not used to it.

With the exception of one canoe of Westerdam passengers behind us and two kayakers in front of us, we were the only people on the lake. It was peaceful and absurdly beautiful with the glacier ahead of us, chunks of glacial ice floating past us and the ever-present snow-capped mountains rising behind us. Glacial ice is a bright hue of blue because it's packed more tightly than the typical ice cube. When glaciers calve, chunks of ice fall into the water and float away, melting into odd shapes and becoming temporary hangouts for seabirds. According to our guide, even the biggest ones last only a few weeks.

Paddling is an arm workout, for sure, but the pace of the trip was leisurely with plenty of stops to take photos and listen to our guide talk about the area. We canoed across the glacier to within 100 feet of the glacier (the maximum allowed for safety reasons), and while we were watching saw a piece of glacier break off, revealing the bright blue, pristine ice beneath. It's a rare site, and we felt quite privileged. For a mid-trip break, we beached our canoe on, well, a beach and enjoyed apple cider, cheese and crackers, and salmon pate set out by our guide. The weather was so warm that people were swimming in the creek-fed lake across the beach! I wished I had worn my swimsuit so I could float in the water looking out a miles-long field of ice.

By the way, if you're hoping to spot a bear or moose, this isn't your trip. Glacial silt makes the lake waters murky, which prevents anything from growing in the water, so there's no fish in the lake, and hence no mammals coming to eat the fish.

The wind changed directions for our return trip and picked up, so going back was a bit rockier and harder on the arms than the way out. We joked good-naturedly about our white water canoe trip, and which side of the canoe needed to paddle harder. I spotted "an animal" on the beach that turned out to be two humans. It really is hard to get out of wildlife-spotting mode on this trip.

I'd definitely recommend this trip for fit cruisers who want to see the glacier and get out in nature to do it. Our guide says the views are better looking up at the glacier from a canoe than down at the ice from a helicopter landing…but maybe he's just paid to say that.

[Erica@cruisecritic]

Mt. Roberts is one of the many mountains surrounding Juneau, and visitors can take a tram up its slopes for fabulous views of the area. The tram costs a hefty $27 per person, but is valid all day. A nature center (essentially a gift shop with a few little exhibits and salespeople-cum-rangers), a movie on Tlingit native culture and a raptor exhibit are all free of charge. At the top, you'll also find a restaurant and bar, gift shop and hiking trails.

The views alone are worth $27, and you can see mountain ranges in every direction. From up there, I could see just how small Veendam looks next to its larger sister, Westerdam, and watched Diamond Princess sailing away down the Gastineau Channel. I thought about doing a short hike, but most of the trails were closed … due to snow! It might be warm in town, but up here on the mountain, the snow is still in the process of melting. I walked a short path up to some viewing platforms, but to either side, the loop trail was blocked by either snowy slopes or muddy pathways. If you're planning a hike here, definitely find out beforehand when the trails are expected to open.

[Erica@cruisecritic]

I've heard from many people who have done Alaskan cruies that it is a good idea to buy water proof (gortex) jackets and shoes. We went to Bass Pro tonight and spent $400 for 2 jackets and 2 pairs of shoes for our cruise in July! Is this really necessary?

 

A couple of folks have asked about weather. It has been unseasonably warm and sunny here, so I can't really speak to what clothing you need -- other than you should probably be prepared for anything.

 

I can say, being an avid hiker, that what kind of all-weather gear you need depends on what you're going to do. If you plan on doing a lot of outdoor tours, I'd definitely bring a rain jacket and perhaps waterproof shoes (or at least good socks and multiple shoes). Gortex sounds a bit extreme -- you'll most likely be fine wearing warm layers of whatever you already own and a waterproof cover, like a poncho or rain jacket. I certainly wouldn't spend $400 on something I never planned on using again.

 

If you're just going on a float plane tour and a salmon bake and a train ride, you definitely don't need to splurge on top-level waterproof wear.

 

And don't forget those shorts, T-shirts and swimsuits! I could have used a pair of capris on this trip.