Ruby Princess Alaska RT Seattle (7/29) from an (almost) new cruiser

The next day was Skagway:

Chilkoot Charters: Yukon Rail and Bus excursion

We elected to take the early morning train up and the bustour back. Our Chilkoot guide, Mike, met us at the dock, and gave us a brief introduction to Skagway on our short trip to the train station. We were assigned the last car, and chose to sit on the left side of the train for the best views going up. Given my much-discussed acrophobia, I chose to look in the distance, rather than straight down. Frankly, after riding in the helicopter, the train felt quite tame! The train ride was very scenic (clear weather!), with an interesting narration about the rich history of the Klondike trail. Many people chose to stand either on the front of back of the train car in order to take pictures, however, they did miss the narration outside. The seats were moderately comfortable, and each car had a restroom, heater, and supply of bottled drinking water. This tour is highly recommended for train enthusiasts, as well as people who want to enjoy beautiful scenery while learning about history.

The front of the train as viewed from the last car.

An old trestle. Luckily this is no longer in use!

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After showing our passports (or passport cards) to the customs officials who boarded the train, we got off in Fraser, where Mike had driven to meet us. He had already cautioned us to use the restrooms on board the train about ½ hr beforethe end of the ride, at which time they are locked, so we were quickly able to hop in the mini bus and take off ahead of the larger tour buses. He drove us into the Yukon with many stops for pictures along the way, including beautiful Emerald Lake. Lunch at Carcross was a BBQ chicken/cole slaw lunch with homemade donuts for dessert. Afterwards, we were given time to visit the taxidermy museum. Although not my personal cup of tea, the exhibits were incredibly well done and included animals not native to the region. For those who are more interested in live animals (!), there is a small petting zoo. There were sled dog rides on wheeled carts, and it was fun to watch the excitement of the dogs as they were harnessed and finally released to start their journey. We had already done the wonderful sled dog excursion on a glacier in Juneau, so this was not a highlight for us, but it would be a less expensive way to experience a sled dog ride.

Beautiful Emerald Lake

Dog carts on wheels. It was interesting to see what a ruckus the dogs made when they were being harnessed. All of the dogs wanted to get picked to run, but some had to stay behind. As soon as the cart took off, the remaining dogs immediately quieted down, laying low until their next opportunity.

Lunch served in a large dining room. Donuts not pictured!

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We spent the next couple of hours in the mini-bus with Mike, as he guided us on our journey back to Skagway, stopping for pictures along the way. Mike has to be the best tour guide I have ever experienced. He was extremely knowledgeable and gave us a tremendous amount of information, not just about the history, and geography of the area, but about living in Skagway. The way he wove together factual information, stories, and jokes was masterful. And although he was a wealth of information, Mike was cognizant of not talking too much, so he would put on music play lists (which I think he matches to his listeners!) at just the right times so we could relax.

Speaking of time, Mike was so in tuned with the train schedule, he was able to schedule a few of our rest stops at the exact time the train would cross a nearby bridge so that we could have the perfect photo op! This while playing Johnny Cash's "I Hear That Train A Comin'" no less! The journey back to Skagway could have been a little sleep-inducing after lunch, but Mike was so entertaining, we were mesmerized!

The scenery was varied and beautiful...

There was even a "desert"!

Mike had the trains timed perfectly for photos!

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If you decide to take this tour, one suggestion is to get off the bus at every stop, unless it’s pouring down rain. The fresh air was invigorating,and Mike (who majored in photography) took fantastic pictures upon request. He even provided cell phone chargers (for all different brands of phones), and binoculars on his bus for spotting wildlife. We actually saw two bears on our journey, thanks to the sharp eyes of our fellow passengers.

I thought the train ride/bus tour was a perfect combination, as a round-trip train ride might get monotonous. You definitely see different things on the road than you do on the train.

Unless having a bathroom on board a large 50+ passenger bus is essential for you, I highly recommend booking a smaller tour with a company like Chilkoot. (I learned on these boards that there are other great companies like Dyea Dave as well.) With only 11 people, we felt like we were having a private, custom tour. We were able to make so many more stops than the larger tour buses, and weren’t waiting forever for people to get on and off the bus.

I asked Mike what the minimum number for running a tour was, since our little bus was nowhere near capacity, and he said “one”. Chilkoot will run a tour with one person, as they don’t believe in canceling tours

due to low numbers. Now that's customer service!

Bear sightings!

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Found Chilkoot Tours - was that the White Pass Train & Bus??

Found Chilkoot Tours - was that the White Pass Train & Bus??

It was the "Yukon Rail and Bus", the 7.5 hour trip including lunch. You can either do the train or bus first. We chose to do the train first, which had a meeting time of 7:30 a.m. I believe, if you do the bus first, it starts at 8:30.

We were glad we chose this order, because it gave us more flexibility with the bus part, since we didn't have to worry about ending our bus tour at an exact time to catch the train. Also, we were able to get out of the bus frequently, which helped keep me awake and attentive. If we had done the train after lunch, I'm afraid I would gave fallen asleep on the way back! Just my personal preference, but some people might prefer the later start.

https://chilkootcharters.com/package/yukon-rail-bus/

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Wow that Juneau excursion looked amazing! We also LOVED Chillkoot and our guide. We chose to do the bus up and the train back, as we just wanted to relax on the way back (yes, you do get sleepy!), plus we wanted the later 8:30 start time. However, you make a great point about the timing as we had some latecomers and dawdlers, plus we had a long wait at the border. Our guide did a great job of making sure we saw everything, however, he was very cognizant of getting us to the train in time for its departure. I am sure they factor things like that into the time however as we never really felt rushed.

You got some shots very similar to mine, however, you had a sunnier day so your pictures are better! Those bear shots are amazing!

Wow that Juneau excursion looked amazing! We also LOVED Chillkoot and our guide. We chose to do the bus up and the train back, as we just wanted to relax on the way back (yes, you do get sleepy!), plus we wanted the later 8:30 start time. However, you make a great point about the timing as we had some latecomers and dawdlers, plus we had a long wait at the border. Our guide did a great job of making sure we saw everything, however, he was very cognizant of getting us to the train in time for its departure. I am sure they factor things like that into the time however as we never really felt rushed.

 

You got some shots very similar to mine, however, you had a sunnier day so your pictures are better! Those bear shots are amazing!

We were so fortunate to have a sunny day, and the scenery was gorgeous! It was really Mike that kept me awake on the way back, where he would alternate between historical information and tidbits about the cost of living in Skagway, for example.

The bear sightings were complete luck, of course, but we had a couple on our bus I nicknamed "the bear whisperers", because they were the ones who spotted both bears and shouted "bear"! In both cases Mike had to do a careful u-turn to go back. When larger tour buses spotted his min-bus, they, too, pulled over, because they knew he had spotted something. He joked that they were going to have to buy him some ice cream at Carcross, as they really do look out for each other.

This reminds me of a story he told me and my husband during our lunch stop. He said he used to drive one of the big buses, and that they all help each other out. One day, they were doing some construction work on one of the roads (bridges?) near our Carcross stop, and only lighter vehicles were allowed to pass. There was a big bus that was stuck on the other side, and it looked like it was going to have to turn around, with its bus full of disappointed (and hungry) passengers. Mike contacted the other driver, and spent his lunch break ferrying passengers across the bridge in his mini-bus. With construction delays, it took 1/2 hour for each trip, and he had to be careful to keep to his time schedule with his own passengers.

The pictures were taken on my iPhone7 Plus, and they actually turned out better than the ones my husband took with his regular camera with a medium-zoom lens. (You can tell I don't know anything about cameras, and neither does he, so he was at the mercy of the automatic settings! His camera took better pictures on the glacier, however.)

I'm afraid I definitely would have dozed off on the train ride back! Wasn't the trip (both ways) beautiful, though?

Glacier Bay

We were up on the Promenade deck a little after 6 a.m., equipped with cameras and binoculars, and stayed there until almost noon! It was definitely cold early in the morning. It was the first time I wore my light-weight down jacket and gloves, but warmed up as the morning went on. The national park ranger said they only get around 12 sunny days like that a year, so, once again, we were quite fortunate.

Before arriving at Glacier Bay, I couldn't have imagined standing out on a deck for almost 6 hours, but we were mesmerized by the sounds of calving and the majesty of our surroundings. It was so calm and beautiful, the captain actually did two 360 degree turns of the ship, so we could enjoy everything twice! At some point in the morning, the park ranger got on the loudspeaker, and gave an interesting narration. (Throughout the cruise, whenever we were in our cabin in daylight hours, we would have our television on the ship's camera station, as this is where any narrations would be broadcast.)

One wildlife highlight was a brown bear that was swimming right next to our boat. He passed by so quickly in the current, that it would have been easy to miss him. We, personally, did not see any whales in Glacier Bay, but talked to someone who said that just as he was returning to his aft balcony cabin as we were leaving Glacier Bay, a whale breeched right outside of his balcony window!

At noon we went up to the Horizon Court Buffet for the first time, and really enjoyed their seafood buffet. (Picture posted earlier in this review under dining.) The views were magnificent from our table, and we even got some good pictures through the windows.

In the afternoon we went back to our port-side balcony cabin to enjoy the view and take more pictures.

As I mentioned earlier, no disposable products were allowed while we were in Glacier Bay. We were so glad that we had purchased a thermal Princess coffee mug earlier in the week, as the store wouldn't open until much later in the morning. (I'm hoping that Princess considers my suggestion to have the mugs available for sale right at the International Cafe, especially on Glacier Bay day.) I realize we could have brought one from home, but honestly, don't think we could have fit it in our suitcase!

What a wonderful review and beautiful pictures! Thank you so much for taking the time to do this.

I am very interested in the $99 photo package. I have asked my TA to keep a look out for it but also am looking myself. I believe someone posted that the special is usually made available in February. Do you mind telling me how you became aware of it?

Glacier Bay

 

We were up on the Promenade deck a little after 6 a.m., equipped with cameras and binoculars, and stayed there until almost noon! It was definitely cold early in the morning. It was the first time I wore my light-weight down jacket and gloves, but warmed up as the morning went on. The national park ranger said they only get around 12 sunny days like that a year, so, once again, we were quite fortunate.

 

Before arriving at Glacier Bay, I couldn't have imagined standing out on a deck for almost 6 hours, but we were mesmerized by the sounds of calving and the majesty of our surroundings. It was so calm and beautiful, the captain actually did two 360 degree turns of the ship, so we could enjoy everything twice! At some point in the morning, the park ranger got on the loudspeaker, and gave an interesting narration. (Throughout the cruise, whenever we were in our cabin in daylight hours, we would have our television on the ship's camera station, as this is where any narrations would be broadcast.)

 

One wildlife highlight was a brown bear that was swimming right next to our boat. He passed by so quickly in the current, that it would have been easy to miss him. We, personally, did not see any whales in Glacier Bay, but talked to someone who said that just as he was returning to his aft balcony cabin as we were leaving Glacier Bay, a whale breeched right outside of his balcony window!

 

At noon we went up to the Horizon Court Buffet for the first time, and really enjoyed their seafood buffet. (Picture posted earlier in this review under dining.) The views were magnificent from our table, and we even got some good pictures through the windows.

 

In the afternoon we went back to our port-side balcony cabin to enjoy the view and take more pictures.

 

As I mentioned earlier, no disposable products were allowed while we were in Glacier Bay. We were so glad that we had purchased a thermal Princess coffee mug earlier in the week, as the store wouldn't open until much later in the morning. (I'm hoping that Princess considers my suggestion to have the mugs available for sale right at the International Cafe, especially on Glacier Bay day.) I realize we could have brought one from home, but honestly, don't think we could have fit it in our suitcase!

Thank you for all the wonderful details...we are going on the same cruise next month.

Trying to plan our Glacier Bay day...would you say the Promenade is the best viewing deck? 6 a.m. seems a little early for us lol but I do want to try to beat the crowds.

We will definitely bring some coffee to go cups from home...what did you do about breakfast? I assume we cannot take a plate with us on the deck?

Did you head back to the Promenade after lunch? Thank you

Thank you so much for the fabulous, very informative review!

Thank you for all the wonderful details...we are going on the same cruise next month.

 

Trying to plan our Glacier Bay day...would you say the Promenade is the best viewing deck? 6 a.m. seems a little early for us lol but I do want to try to beat the crowds.

 

We will definitely bring some coffee to go cups from home...what did you do about breakfast? I assume we cannot take a plate with us on the deck?

 

Did you head back to the Promenade after lunch? Thank you

I am not the OP, but we also preferred the Promenade deck for Glacier Bay. I had read that tip here on CC and thought it was a good one. On our ship (Coral) it was partially covered which made it great when it got a little misty and also sheltered us from the wind. I think we got out around 7:30 or 8:00 and it was not crowded at all.

OP, I agree you are providing great details!

While I loved our trip and the weather wasn't too bad, I do lament that I didn't get any of the pictures where you could see reflections of the scenery in any lakes or other water like a mirror. We just didn't have enough sun for that. But on GB day, I could see the reflections of the glaciers in the water since the lack of sun made the glaciers very blue.

Thank you for all the wonderful details...we are going on the same cruise next month.

 

Trying to plan our Glacier Bay day...would you say the Promenade is the best viewing deck? 6 a.m. seems a little early for us lol but I do want to try to beat the crowds.

 

We will definitely bring some coffee to go cups from home...what did you do about breakfast? I assume we cannot take a plate with us on the deck?

 

Did you head back to the Promenade after lunch? Thank you

I read somewhere on the boards that Promenade all the way forward was a good viewing deck, and less crowded, and it was, indeed! You can easily go from one side of the ship to the other on Promenade. I don't think it's necessary to be up there by 6, but we were awake anyway. It never seemed to get very crowded as most people seemed to be all the way up on top of the ship.

You can bring a plate on the deck, but I think I just put some pastries and egg sandwiches from the International Cafe in small Zip-lock bags that I always take with me on every trip. You could even put the mixed fruit salad in a Zip-lock bag, and bring a fork from the IC. The IC was very busy that morning, and the line was that much slower with people asking about the no-disposables policy. (The people I overheard weren't questioning it, but apparently had a hard time reading the sign that was prominently displayed, I think because they hadn't yet had their first cup of coffee! ;))

We (or rather, I) absolutely stuffed myself on the lunch-time seafood buffet in the Horizon Court. Don't miss it if you like shellfish, and try to go as soon as it opens, as it gets very crowded. You can still watch the scenery through the huge windows.

After lunch we were pretty full and tired from our long morning, so decided to enjoy the view from our balcony. If the narrator (on the bridge TV channel) mentioned something on the starboard side, it was a quick trip back to Promenade (we were on Caribe on Deck 10, and I think Promenade was on 7), especially if you take the stairs.

One thing I'll mention, is that occasionally, late on in the morning, there was a very strong smell of cigarette smoke. I think there was a smoking area somewhere on the starboard side of Promenade. When that happened, we would shift more towards the port side.

I envy you having the trip still ahead of you. You'll have a great time!

Thank you so much for the fabulous, very informative review!

My pleasure! I'm afraid it is turning out to be a lot longer than I planned. (I'm writing this based on notes I dictated to myself on my iPhone each day. It was the easiest way to keep a journal that I could think of, and then I just copied and pasted my notes to a Word document when I got home. Otherwise, it all would have been a blur!)

What a wonderful review and beautiful pictures! Thank you so much for taking the time to do this.

 

I am very interested in the $99 photo package. I have asked my TA to keep a look out for it but also am looking myself. I believe someone posted that the special is usually made available in February. Do you mind telling me how you became aware of it?

Thank you! I found out about it (probably in February) on..drumroll...Cruise Critic! And up until mid-way on the trip, I was still having buyer's remorse as there were just the two of us. What was nice was that it made us go take pictures, a few of which turned out really great. I even managed to convince my husband to stop and take a picture with the "lumber jacks" at the gangway in Ketchikan, just before getting off the ship. "But it's included!" was my line of persuasion. He drew the line at posing with some of the "wildlife" (moose?) photo opportunities, however.

I hope there's another special before you cruise. I'm sure someone will post on these boards it if becomes available again. I don't know how much it is on the Princess website now, but it was $249 on the ship.

This is a part of a small map given to us the night before we entered Glacier Bay. It was at Marjorie Glacier that the Commodore rotated the ship slowly in two full circles.

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Notice the cloud cover and the down jacket. This was probably taken around 7:00 a.m., which would explain why my eyes are closed!

This is later in the morning. Sunny skies, and down to my bottom layers. (I think these were Costco 32 Degrees shirts I got last winter for around $10.)

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This is the Grand Pacific Glacier, which is adjacent to Marjorie Glacier, if you look on the map. When I first saw this, I was stunned. Where is all the snow and ice? Quite simply, Grand Pacific is a receding glacier. According to the National Park Service, parts of it are receding at a rate of between 10 to 30 feet per year. It merged with Marjerie Glacier in 1992, but is no longer joined, and has been receding ever since. To go back a little further in history, in 1879, John Muir discovered that the ice had retreated more than 30 miles since it was first surveyed in 1794. (This according to Glacierbay.org)

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Marjerie Glacier, on the other hand, is an advancing glacier, at a rate of about 30 feet per year. To give a sense of perspective, it is about 1-mile wide with an ice face abut 250 ft. above the waterline, but with a base 100 feet below sea level.

Marjerie is truly majestic, and we were fortunate to see and hear calving during our morning session. It's hard to describe thundering roar that rips across the water as the ice crashes into the bay, but it is a thing of beauty.

More views of Marjerie Glacier.

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