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Hi Doug - The menu at Le Grill was the second one offered on that cruise (they switch menus in both La Veranda and the Grill halfway through the cruise); L'Etoile is different every night. The menu had 3 seafood appetizers (tuna poke, crab cakes, coconut prawns) all were excellent (my husband ordered them all, lol) and I had the fish for the main course, a local Papio fish. BH had scallops; both fantastic dishes. The Papio was also offered at L'Etoile one night (just said local fish on menu but asked and it was Papio); I think this fish rivals moonfish which, we LOVE. I think they also offered a beef dish and a vegetarian our night at the grill but cannot remember what they were.

You will not want for red meat, always have something on offer in L'Etoile but we so love the seafood. A couple at a neighboring table commented that their steak (at L'Etoile) was better than the one at LaVeranda. In the past we have always loved LaVeranda so maybe they were having an off night. Passengers were raving about the lamb on the ship (all venues). At L'Etoile, in addition to the featured dishes, you may always order a sirloin steak or medallions of beef with any of the featured sauces, (and also New Zealand salmon which was fantastic.) Saw people ordering lamb chops and small steaks to go with their eggs at breakfast.

Just a note about wine. If you're not crazy about the selection that night and enjoyed a previous night's wine, let them know and they will chase down a prior bottle for you. There were a couple of French whites which we thought were very good.

Fingers crossed you make it ashore on both Cook islands!

As the Tahiti crew of our Air France flight was on strike, AF chartered a HiFly flight (Nigerian aircraft, Portuguese cabin crew, Russian pilot) which surprisingly resulted in a decent flight though not the premium economy paid for. Grateful to just get to FP without issue, (strike settled by the time we flew back home.)

Pre-cruise 4 days at Sofitel Moorea was fantastic (thanks Emdee for the luxury beach bungalow recommendation, perfect!). Gorgeous property, nice FP feel, booking between TG and Xmas makes for low occupancy and easy time getting into Moorea restaurants last minute as well. Had a spectacular meal at Le Mahogany and went to Snack Mahana a couple of times - best poisson cru we've ever had.

This was our 9th cruise on the PG (cronic flu sufferers) and happy to report all is well. The staff is unfailingly warm, friendly, helpful, accommodating. Have not before been to the Cooks and was lovely (though the dive outfit contracted thru the ship apparently got a better offer and we could not dive in Aitutaki). Several staff members told us that on over half of the cruises they could not tender to one or both the the islands so can understand why a diveshop would want to go with a sure thing. The tender to Aitutaki was a roller coaster ride and getting on and off the tender not for the faint of heart but the tender crew is diligent in ensuring safety of the guests.

As we have taken most of the excursions over the years and are divers, we limited excursions to Cooks were we snorkled on Aitutaki (out by honeymoon island, average snorkeling in beautiful setting) and a conservation tour on Rarotonga (we're not birders but enjoyed the hike through the rainforest and contributing to the cause).

In Huahine, there is a lovely public beach just 5 minute walk from where the ship's transport into Fare drops you off (north of pier). This beach is separated from the beach in front of the Maitai Lapita by a few homes. Seemed comparable to the hotel beach. Not sure why someone would pay for the beach day unless wanted to lunch at the hotel and be at the pool. We have never before gone into the supermarket in Fare and that place is huge, (especially given only 6000 inhabitants on island). Hard to tell from the outside but inside it just keeps going and going. Fun to see unusual (for us) products in the store (taro flavored ice cream anyone?)

Dove in Bora bora and Moorea. Marina crew is still top notch and the coral here looks like it is starting to recover from the crown of thorns devestation we saw four years ago.

The snorkeling at Motu Mahana was very good this trip (near the reef) but noted many juvenile crown of thorns there so concerned for the future. Also frustrated at people standing up on the coral heads.

The ship may be old for the industry but still very fine. Food we thought was very good, especially proteins and bread/baked goods. Dinner at Le Grill was a standout; really spectacular. La Veranda, not so much (other than the fois gras which was very good.) L'Etoile did not disappoint; plenty of tasty dishes to choose from and no issue with getting a table to ourselves most nights. Waitstaff in all three restaurants could not be more attentive/friendly.

Ricardo has taken the helm as bar supervisor and is doing an exceptional job. He had some pretty big shoes to fill and is a star in his own right.

The Gauiguines/Gauiguins are always a highlight and the ensemble this cruise was the best in recent memory, particularly in the singing. On Polynesian Night, outside of the piano bar, they performed a set of Tahitian folk songs which was truly charming.

Don't think we caught a single show in the Grand Salon... but didn't miss a FP sunrise; unfailingly magical.

We left the ship 5:30am to catch our 8:30 AF flight. Kind of liked this option other than missing the last lunch onboard, (breakfast was room service sandwiches.) The rest of the day has always felt like a slow, aching withdrawal from the outstanding customer service offered by the PG. Liked being home before the ATN flights even left FP. We used to enjoy the savoring the last few hours in FP but not anymore. Also, the airport was not the typical zoo as with those night departures. BTW, the renovated Salon Manuhiri ounge in Faa'a was very nice and a big improvement over the prior, except for the wifi which was still slow.

We've seen a lot of changes over the past 15 years cruising the PG, but for us, the product still tops any other tropical vacation. We're already making plans for #10.

Hi TKB, regarding the following

'Typically if you purchased a day room from PG and you do not wish to take the tour you will stay on-board until after you have eaten lunch.'

On our 12/2 cruise, the debarkation paperwork said everyone off by 10am. Wondered if that was just for our cruise or ? as in the past could stay until after lunch.

Did not matter to us as we debarked at 5:30a to catch our AF flight.

Cool, just wanted to mention it in case Muri beach was primary consideration in car rental. We did not find the Tifaifai shop in Huahine mentioned in the other thread, but then we were there on Sunday so perhaps closed. In Rarotonga we only found machine made quilts. Happy hunting!

Just a couple of quick notes on some of your items Doug52. In Rarotonga, the ship posted in the daily newsletter that transport to and from Muri beach was available between 10am and 4pm for $20 round trip (pp); provided by 'local authorities', whomever that is. Just mentioning as you mentioned planning on spending most of your time there, (and I would consider driving on the opposite side of the road anything but fun :o)

They do sell Tifaifais on the ship (on our Cooks cruise it was the last day,Moorea) during a discussion by the Gauguines regarding their history/custom. They were machine made and, I thought, a bit high in comparison to some others I have bought. There was a lovely orange/white one which was twin sized and I thought would make a nice wall hanging. It was about $300. They did have some nice designs and a variety of sizes, colors including bedspreads, pillow cases.

Just a quick comment on paying $15 to have ship reserve taxi, if you are leaving early or late, the service is invaluable as taxis are not plentiful at this time (even at the taxi stand across from dock) PG provides a person to monitor and you sit on benches at the foot of the gangway until that person confirms it has arrived , then a very short walk to the beginning of dock.

Just returned from a fantastic Cooks cruise, will post some thoughts once have had a chance to adapt to life off board

Previously with the old pier they still used the smaller tenders, I believed due to shallow entry needed over coral heads

I believe Bora Bora is the unrefurbished ATN plane.

It's beautiful! Where in Rarotonga did you find it?

Wondering if Altamira was successful in the Tifaifai quest? Or has anyone bought one recently in Huahine or Rarotonga?

Sounds as though you're taking it in stride! Good for you.

How were the crepes?

I'm with FlightMedic re questionable practice of riding rays... also the stingers are broken off, done to avoid injury but leaves them defenseless.

The refresher course takes a couple of hours; not a whole day. I believe it is in the afternoon with plenty of time to take an excursion in the am (Huahine), have lunch and refresh. You will be looked after by the PG marina staff so also recommend sticking to their dives rather than outside operator. After refresh, recommend taking the BoraBora Toopua dive, easy dive, inside the reef, still lots to see, kind of an aquarium, really. If you like it/feel comfortable then could take Tapu the next day. Very good dive outside the reef, large napolean wrasse, turtles, large lemon sharks, etc. Any of the dives on Moorea also good, all located in close proximity to the others, sharks and turtles. Good strategy to sign up in advance for all dives, you may always cancel later (not sure as to exact policy now, used to be 24 hours)

thanks Kiwirick!

Hi MJ, would appreciate your sharing the results of your independent plans in Huahine when you return. We're also interested in some beach time there but the ship's excursion is not what we're looking for. Many independent online sources indicate there is a public, white sand beach within walking distance of the quay in Fare but unsure where that would be. Cheers!

My two cents is that missing the BB motu would be a shame. In multiple trips we always try to go on BOTH days; it is heaven on earth particularly if you love the water. In contrast, never have made it to Bloody Marys but Notion/Brandon's pics from their pier have us considering in December. Happy planning!

Hi Brandon - Thoroughly enjoyed your travelogue and appreciate the work put into your audio/visual links. Especially enjoyed the sunrises each day and the way you captured the local people in your photos. Thank you. You mentioned a few times that you were not sure when you would/could return. I can tell from your review that the flu may have claimed another. The first time my husband and I visited we thought it was a trip of a lifetime... thankfully we are returning soon for our ninth cruise aboard the PG. It's funny how your priorities shift after experiencing heaven on earth. Mauruuru Roa

thank you both!

Hi Brandon, really enjoying your trip report/photos/videos. I believe you said that the Huahine anchor location was in Maroe Bay. That differs from previous times we have been there so wanted to make sure; also which side of the bay was the pier on (Huanhine or Huahini-Iti?); Many thanks!

In researching public beaches available within walking distance of our tendering location in Huahine, I read multiple descriptions of Fare Beach / Fare Town Beach. It appears to be the same beach for the shipboard excursion Day At The Beach in front of Maitai Lapita. Not to detract from the ship offerings, but we are no interested in lunching (or spending 6 hours) there. Nor does it appear we will need transport. Does anyone know if this is a private beach?

If so, any public beach recommendations within walking distance? Thanks!

Super; thanks!

Hello - we have enjoyed the view from the Belvedere on each visit to Moorea but have never made it to the spot called Magic Mountain. We are doing a precruise next trip and would like to try to do this. We will have a car. I understand that it is a hike to this viewing area. Does anyone have specifics like where to acess the trail and how long the hike is? Māuruuru!

the ship runs tenders there; about one per hour

takes about 30 minutes to tender so plan accordingly

When you get your snorkel equipment at the marina at the beginning of your cruise they put all in a mesh water bag... I think there is enough room in their for a few other odds and ends but not your beach towels as it is a water bag, also they will attach a tag with your cabin number

Seabunny I encourage you strongly not to miss the bora bora motu. Heaven on earth. There is a shack with drinks (nor a full bar but beer, soda, water and punch) plus chips. There will be kayaks, SUP boards and volley ball. Maybe some boule. It is located on same motu as the BB Pearl resort so you may get an idea if the incredible view from their trip advisor pics.

We have been on many PG cruises and always try to go on both days, even if only for a short time.

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