Like a Harvester with cabins during an earthquake - Island Escape voyage report

[Mattsudds]

Once upon a time, converted Scandinavian ferries were a mainstay of the cruise industry. They arguably helped start NCL, Star Cruises, the Miami cruise business and introduced European masses to the previously elitist concept of a cruise via the 'minicruise'. As the industry built more and more vessels dedicated to cruising so these car ferry pioneers are dying away. It was experience of operating luxurious (for the time) car ferries, ambition and arrogance that led Danish company DFDS to believe it could spark a revolution in coastal travel in the US by bringing a specially designed brand new ship into service to carry passengers and most importantly their cars from New York to Florida. That ship was the Scandinavia and she is still, just about, going today as cruise ship Island Escape. There are many rumours of her imminent demise as a big birthday approaches and so I decided to give her a try before the chance is lost forever.

 

Scandinavia has had an interesting career, and been adapted from her ferry beginnings along the way. The New York - Florida car ferry service quickly failed once the restrictive practices of US passenger shipping meant that direct travel was impossible and so transshipment of cars to feeder vessels in the Bahamas was necessary. By 1983, after just over a year of service the Scandinavia was moved to DFDS' flagship Copenhagen - Oslo route where she did a short stint until sold for further service to Sundance cruises who saw her potential for carrying car loving americans on their cruise vacations to Alaska and the Mexican Riviera. As their Stardancer, the brochures show her public spaces to have been largely unaltered with the exception of inserting a library into the former children's room and an extension of the healthclub to the side of the ship on the upper most deck. Stardancer was advertised as bringing space to bring your RV to Alaska aboard a luxury cruise ship at sensible prices. In 1987 Sundance cruises was sold to Admiral Cruises, who in turn were bought by Royal Caribbean in 1990. The ship was renamed Viking Serenade and underwent a far more substantial conversion into a fully-fledged cruise ship.

 

The Scandinavia was built in the vertical separation of accommodation design that was fashionable up until the Monarch and Majesty of the Seas. The conversion thus required changes throughout the ship but most visibly noticeable was the build up of the stern. A Viking Crown lounge, always a signature feature of Royal Caribbean ships, was added. The previously open upper passenger deck was enclosed full width and made into a Lido restaurant. Down next to the pursers office on Deck 5, the starboard aft section of cabins were removed and new windows cut to create space for a new restaurant. The main change though was the conversion of the car decks into passenger and crew cabin decks. In addition, behind the scenes, many technical changes were made which moved her from a ship for very short voyages to be a ship capable of self-sustaining operation for 2 weeks, including fuel capacity, bakery, laundry and other facilities. Crew cabins were installed generally in the inside spaces, and when disembarking in ports via deck 3, passengers glancing into the crew areas can still see the tell tale DFDS blue car deck with 'elephants feet' for lashing down the trucks, this is what passes for corridor floors. A much larger Casino and the Serenade shops were installed on decks 7 & 8 respectively. The former disco was eliminated as the disco function moved up to the Viking Crown lounge. In its place came cabins.

 

After a decade with Royal Caribbean, the ship was moved to start a joint brand with First Choice, Island Cruises. A relaxed, informal cruising style (all buffet) was adopted and the ship was further altered accordingly. The main nightclub received perhaps the least thought through alteration with the portion aft by the windows becoming Cafe Brazil coffee shop, internet centre and Library, without any form of sound or visual screening. In a further refit, clip on balconies were added on the upper most cabin deck at the stern. At some point in her Island Escape career, the roof from the Magradrome was removed too. As Island escape, the ship now caters to entry level fly-cruise market from Britain. Although part of the Thomson operation, Island cruises is marketed very separately from the Thomson operation to differentiate the onboard standards.

 

Looking at the decor and comparing the corporate styles of her owners, the biggest influence is probably her RCI refit as Viking Serenade. Many things like the pub, decor in the A la carte, stairway and atrium murals, all appear to date from that era. However a brochure I have for her as Scanvinavia shows that some things are still original, most notably the glass bubble light fittings in the main restaurant, which back then illustrated plush red velvet seats in the 'Windows of the World' dining saloon, rather than the conservatory furniture and buffet fayre of today. The old brochure also shows how some shipboard design trends come back into fashion. A couple are shown walking into what one assumes is the disco through a mirrored and side lit tunnel, just like today's large Tallink and Aida ships have. Plus ca change!

 

With all this in mind, I set out for Palma to board the Island Escape for her first 'Spirit of the Mediterannean' cruise of what may (or may not) be her last season. Cabins are allocated upon arrival an I was given an outside aft on deck 4, one of the cabins added in the conversion from a ferry. Like typical ferry cabins it was compact but had all the basics there. An ancient TV spluttered into life showing a few British channels and a bridge cam, a compact but dated pink hued bathroom and wardrobes designed with serious ship shape closing mechanisms, together with 2 narrow beds, completed the scene. Up in the passenger spaces, one is immediately transported back in parts to the 1980s Baltic with smoked glass and brass, and elsewhere to the 90s cruise ships with marble (and more brass). There was a true ferry feel to the layout of the main night club with semi-circular seating around an offset stage leaving wondows on 3 sides, including looking down over the wake. From a similar era seem to be the atrium and the restaurant. Also the public bathrooms had something in their layout which screamed ferry - perhaps it was the odd shape, or the large windows?

 

We set sail from Palma for Ajaccio and after a day plodding at Sea, got to experience the 'Island Escape' brand of fun. The entertainment staff really work very hard in a working mens club at sea style, constantly amusing, sometimes involving, frequently energetic and almost universally camp. Many of the passengers benefited from the All Inclusive drinks package and so a general air of merriment abounded. The overwhelming majority of the passengers were from Northern Britain and there was the typical brusque, slightly nosey humourous interaction to be had all day. In the whole cruise I only saw 2-3 people obviously the worse for wear on the drink and both were 70+. One was being escorted back to his cabin to sleep it off and another lady was being helped down the stairs amongst much giggling of her friends.

 

Food on the escape is all buffet. And its plentiful but this is not a line with a high food budget. There is seemingly Pork available for almost every meal, rarely beef and never steak. US cruising this is not. Whilst the quality is overall not bad, it reminds me of a land based restaurant chain called 'Harvester'. Not bad but perhaps not somewhere one would go every day.

 

Passengers wanting something fancier can opt for the Oasis restaurant down next to the Purser's square. At £14.99 it offers an a la carte waiter service option for 'special occasions'. In truth the quality of the food here was just about the same as in the main waiter service restaurant on other Thomson ships, decent pub grub well presented, but not really any better.

 

I had been on deck for departure and upon returning to my cabin there was the not unexpected level of the throb of the ships engines. The ventilation system also needs some attention as whenever the kitchen is in operation, its aromas spread throughout certain spaces on the ship making the theatre the 'chip fat' lounge etc. I was alseep in my cabin for arrival at Ajaccio next day and then I really got a special wake up call, as the ships propellor pitch changes or manoeuvering begins so the vibration becomes intense, rather like a lasting lowish strength earthquake.

 

Our subsequent ports of call were Civitavecchia, Livorno, Toulon and Barcelona. In each port, the Escape showed her age and relative unmanouverability by requiring tugs even in wind still weather, and even then taking upto 45 mins to spin around. By Livorno the wind had picked up to 40 knots and for the first time in a long time I was on a ship which was taken out to Sea by the tugs, taken all the way (usually they drop off once the sharp turns are done). The pilot certainly earned his money that evening as our old tub provided only some shelter. Fortunately for the night from Livorno to Toulon we were heading straight into the wind and sea. My Cabin stewardess had made my cabin become an inside by closing the deadlights and I knew we were in for a bouncy one. And sure enough we pitched away creating great plumes of spray up at least as far as deck 8 as we ploughed on. I was glad then not to have one of the original forward passenger cabins and the next morning tales abounded or 'brave survival' and first time cruises who had been thrown out of bed and slept in their lifejackets. A stroll round the more sheltered parts of the deck that evening brought be across a very frightened looking lady at the forward stairwell who was petrified by a hollow metallic banging which was coming from within the ship. We quickly tracked this down to an empty lift carriage banging against its shaft when we hit bit waves and creating the most tremendous reverberations. I'd like to think that the lady was reassured by knowing what the noise was but reception staff just shrugged and said 'its a normal noise'.

 

For our day in Toulon we had arrived only a little behind schedule due to the headwind, but it stayed windy all day and many ferries in the area were diverted or delayed. We left 1hr later than scheduled and the Captain announced we were to take a different route to hug the coast and try to stay out of the worst of the weather. Hug the coast we did but as we turned from Toulon we took the wind on our side, made a large roll and with the strength of the wind basically stayed at that angle for the next few hours, only increasing with particularly large waves. Like many slab sided car ferries with the public spaces high up aft, the Escape couldn't really be described as comfortable in such weather. Next day some crew were joking (I hope they were joking) that they had lost months wages in that one turn when lots of glasses, plates and bottles had smashed, and even in my cabin the shelves all emptied themselves on the floor.

 

During the night, the ship turned south for Barcelona and with a following wind we even managed to arrive ahead of schedule into a wind still Barcelona, which was as beautiful as ever. As is normal with Barcelona, passenger ship and ferries came and went, and the excellently conceived dual use Cruise/ Ferry terminals were in good use. Their idea is that cruise ships generally stay until 5-6pm and the ferries being night ships only need the berths from 8-12. Thus quaysides bustle all day with cruise passengers and supplies until the same spaces are then used to accommodate the waiting ferry traffic.

 

Back in Palma at the end of the trip I reflected on what a magnificent ferry Scandinavia must have been back in 1982. And despite never being quite right, she has operated for 30years successfully when many other better regarded ships have not. Would I cruise Island Escape again? No, whilst Island Escape is very friendly has a loyal staff and following amongst her passengers, there are too many ships out there to try to limit myself just to one - but I don't regret a moment spent in that Harvester with Cabins even if some of it felt like it was during an earthquake.

 

Thanks for reading and if you are interested, there are a few photos here

[jengef]

Interesting read and photos although seems like you managed to shoot the photos on very quiet days. You did seem to go with a negative mind to start with and we all know that there are newer bigger and some would say better ships out there depending on you personal style and wallet.

As for a very frightened lady. You get that on airplanes as well where some people ( me included) are terrified by every noise you here and if you ask the flight attendant they just tell you it's normal.

My house was built inthe early 80's and although has gone through a few alterations you can still tell what year it was built so it's the same for ships.

Thankyou for posting though as its always good to read other peoples views. I shall be going on the good ship in June and again in October but both times I'm going with an open mind and not comparing it to our princess cruises. A holiday is what you make it when all said and you can't grumble about weather or things that can't be helped you just have to get on with it and enjoy the experience.

Jen

[Mattsudds]

Hello JEn,

I'm sorry if you got the impression I went with a negative mindset. It must have been something I wrote, because its not what I meant. I enjoyed the Island Escape for all her faults, and I went precisely because I was interested in the ship with her history and what she would be like today. Island Cruises manage expectations well and I wasn't expecting luxury or newness and the ship met those expectations. One can't help the weather but it is a characteristic of the ship that compared to some others she is not particularly comfortable in rough weather. That said we arrived safe and sound so all was fine really.

 

The ship is an old ship, and the food is particularly basic, repetitive and cheap stuff. The shows would benefit from live music (rather than canned), but it would be difficult not to have a good time on the ship because the atmosphere is warm and friendly, made that way by passengers and staff. Like I said at the end, I wouldn't go again just because I will only limit myself to one ship when I've tried them all, but I did enjoy it and it does what it says on the tin.

 

Matt

[Rebel Rouser]

Nice report Matt, very well thought out and put together, Thanks.

 

 

Good photo's by the way ;)

 

 

Ps If I had done a report like that ..would have took me a month of Sundays :D

[jengef]

Hi Matt It could have been the way I read your heading. It is a very good report and very well written.

Just 1 thing about the entertainment being better live rather than canned( and I know I'm biased here ) they do sing live but also have the pre recorded as well due to the fact that trying to dance and sing and get the sound across to the whole audience is quite difficult.

thanks for the report though as always good to read other peoples experiences

Jen :)

[Mattsudds]

Thanks Jengef. When I mentioned canned music, I meant the music itself. The singers are clearly quite talented and much appreciated by the audience. I can't help think how they would be even more appreciated if they were accompanying a live orchestra - it makes such a difference. Unfortunately that would be really tough for the Escape to fit into the available space. The only bit of entertainment I really didn't appreciate was the chap who played in the pub. He sang and played the guitar but the sound set up was so loud that conversation was impossible and he sang so close to the mic that the guitar didn't come through. Another performer who's talent deserved a better set up really to be able to shine.

 

One final thing I forgot to mention about the Escape. The end of cruise questionnaire was the most intrusive I have ever seen, asking for way more details about home, income,newspaper read, family and contact details etc than I have ever seen on any other feedback questionnaire.

[Rebel Rouser]

Matt, who was the singer in the "Bar" :)

[Mattsudds]

Sorry Rebel Rouser - I can't remember his name and didn't keep my Island Chatter's. He was a youngish chap, probably in his 20/30s.

[Rebel Rouser]

The guy last year was .Hassan (sp)

[EssexOldGirl]

Well Mattsuds - I didn't expect a history lesson this Sunday evening, but that's certainly what I got. Very very interesting. It will take further reading to absorb all the info and your explanation relating to Cafe Brasil certainly rang a bell as it seems to be superfluous. That said "clothes don't maketh the man" comes to mind, both relating to man and ships. I choose cruises that suit me - I don't like dressing to impress others but I do like to be clean and dressed appropriately for enjoying a buffet meal and good entertainment. All this I find on IE. We have always chosen "freestyle" cuising (NCL, Ocean Village, Island Cruises, and to some extent Thomsons) but I am always very impressed with these great floating cities when docked next to them in our little homely ship. We decided to give Celebrity Eclipse a go three months after being on IE. We found a new ship with what seemed to be a full grown live tree in the atrium stretching upwards to the top deck. The twelve or so decks were open plan and we found the whole set up totally pretentious. A small band played at a lower deck in the atrium and passengers danced in what to my mind was a public area. The small cinema smelled of drains and the final straw for me was coming out of the "cinema" at 1am wanting a cup of tea and snack - and finding the buffet closed. They said I could have room service but with a husband asleep in the cabin - sorry - state room - I wanted to eat in the buffet restaurant.

 

All this said the Passengers on that ship seemed to love it and certainly the ship was brand new and the cabin with its large flat screened TV couldn't be faulted. Those same passengers probably enjoyed dressing up and taking 3 hours over their dinner; and probably enjoyed the fully grown tree and, almost forgot, probably enjoyed the lawn on the top deck. The following month I had a week on Thomson Dream and the entertainment suited me 100% more than the cirque du soleil type of shows and the Celebrity Eclipse entertainments manager was not a patch on the IE or Thomson managers.

 

Given the choice I like luxurious new ships, but given the choice I choose a friendly ship whose food I enjoy and whose entertainment and quizzes have no pretentiousness just a genuine aim to please their guests.

 

I also tell myself too that the car ferry that is the Island Escape, that has been sailing for 30 years and has proven itself, will continue hopefully to do so. I do wonder about the magnificent new vessels and hope they manage to emulate IE's record.

 

Thanks Matt for your impressive review which I'm now going to re-read to absorb IE's history. I just hope we have a smooth cruise next week - I too get frightened on bumpy planes and rocking/rolling ships!:D:D

[Nix111]

Thanks for such a detailed and informative review, we are off on IE tomorrow and looking forward to it, I think we know what to expect and I' sure we'll have a great time. Hoping for smoother seas though!

 

Loved the pictures, it's the detailed shots I want and I was pleasantly surprised by the decor / standards in your shots.

 

By the way we ate at a Harvester for the first time last week and I was very surprised to find I really enjoyed it and the food quality was good so your post title really made me smile!

 

Thanks again, I'll post a review when we return and depending on wifi speeds my even do a live update from the boat.

[WoolyBully]

We went on the Dream for the first time last year and Ive been on all the other ships in the Thomosn fleet and have never felt as sick as I did on the Dream, even slept on the floor becasue I just couldnt move! So a rough sea is a rough sea!!! :)

[Grez]

Great review Matt. Like you i am keen to go on IE whist it is still there. Its a bit of cruising history. However not sure my other half would be keen on it, so may have to see if my brother is interested.

[Simples]

Thank you for one of the best reviews that I have read re the Island Escape. It reminded me of my own trip in similar weather, and having to put the pillow at the other end of the bed because my feet were higher than my head. The crossing from Toulon to Barcelona cuts across the Gulf of Lyon, which although not as infamous as the Bay of Biscay can be just as rough.Thanks again for the memories. Regards Terry

[Simples]

I agree that the Escape is not comfortable in heavy conditions, I took this video clip going from Madeira to Morroco on the Island Escape. We had cabin number 8526 at the bow.

 

http://youtu.be/x6IViM0bVlY

[gingernick]

Great review Matt. Was going to do one myself but you have done it better than I ever could.

The food was like eating at a carvery but we thought that there was something for everyone (13 in our group) and ok it wasn't like eating in a restaurant every night but we didn't feel we had to pay £15 to eat in the Oasis every night so I wouldn't worry about the food too much.

Our cabins (4047 & 4049 for me, my partner, my son & daughter) were a little like a Haven Caravan but more spacious than I expected with plenty of hanging space in a double wardrobe with about 12 hangers and 4 small drawers. The bathroom was fine as was the shower but yes it does have the dredded shower curtain. Andrew who looked after our cabin worked hard as did all the staff. Again the entertainment is a little Haven in parts but we enjoyed all we saw. The guitarist in the Sundowner Pub was Joe Edwards and whilst I thought like Matt he sounded a little rough everyone enjoyed his set. There was also a pianist that took turns with Joe called Frankie de Soto who we called Chas n Dave even if he was on his own.

I think 99% of people will enjoy it on Island Escape I would go again but as it was my 1st cruise I have nothing to compare it with. I will have to compare prices on the "fancier" ships 1st to see if I would jump ship. My only complaint would be when getting a drink you have to show your card then sign a chitty keep your copy then give the bar person their copy. It can be a pain in the backside when ordering 13 drinks!

If anyone has any questions please feel free to ask

[Rebel Rouser]

Is Frankie De Soto..the guy with a husky Irish accen?

[moto9]

Hi Matt! :)

Thanks for your review. I'm glad I read it to the end as my first reaction was like Jen, I thought it was going to be negative. It was really good to read the history of IE and your comments were very comprehensive and interesting.

I am looking forward to our cruise in 4 weeks time but really hope we do not get the weather conditions you described!! :eek:

Regards. Mo. :)

[gingernick]

Yes Frankies got a husky voice alright. I thought he was great and we spent most of our free time in the pub. The band in the Bounty Lounge were called Rock the boat and I and my daughter thought they were really good.

[Rebel Rouser]

Thats good about Frankie....loved his voice and blues piano :D

[jengef]

I've just realised that you meant a harvester pub.... :o I thought you were referring to a farm machine. Now I understand ..... Must have been living in Norfolk for too long:D

If anyone going soon can take a jar of marmite for Danni she would appreciate it. Although think as its food its not allowed.

[Rebel Rouser]

The Island Escape is like marmite..you either love it or hate it :D