Baltic Treasures Info for Independents

[roothy123]

I know it's late in the season, and Baltic cruises are winding down. However, I just returned from O's Baltic Treasures on Marina, and know that Marina is now doing a Stockholm to Copenhagen cruise. Nautica was also out there, too. (Boy, was I jealous when I saw her docked right next to the market area in Helsinki - SWEET!)

 

Anyway, I just got back last night, and if anyone has any questions, I'd be glad to try to answer them, especially if they pertain to independent travel. We didn't do the ship's excursions (too expensive, although I hear they were pretty good - and I know there were a couple times I wished I had taken one - almost got lost a couple times!!) We had an absolutely fabulous time.

 

I guess the biggest tip I can give is for the St. Petersburg stop. Practically the whole ship goes off the ship the first morning - most on O excursions, but some on tours like SPB or Alla, etc. (I didn't hear of anyone who had gotten a visa and DIYd it.) If you're to meet your indy tour group at a certain time, especially on 1st day, be sure to leave plenty of time to get through ship's checkout and Russian immigration. We left at 8:00 on the nose and barely made it out of the terminal by 8:30. Some of the tours were being dispatched, plus all the indy people were lined up, and there was a long line of people trying to get off the ship at the same time. Then there is the Russian passport process, which takes 15-20 minutes because there are so many people coming at once. If you're taking an O-arranged excursion, just follow their instructions; if Alla or Denrus, SPB, etc., allow 45 minutes the first day to meet your group and/or line up no later than 7:45. On the second day, things are much better.

 

O will give you great info on the process in SP (yes, it's involved) but you may not be prepared for the long lines that will form at 8AM (or whenever you dock). Also, be prepared for big crowds at Catherine's Palace, and other top places - very crowded (and worse when they open the doors for the public), no AC, etc. - but it's worth it. Just dress lightly and try not to take big camera bags.

 

Oceania just keeps getting better and better - we loved it, and loved each port. It was an exhausting itinerary, however, if you're like me and want to see it all! Whew! I think I changed my watch 5 or 6 times, too, which didn't help. Get ready to take your passport or picture ID with you a lot. O provided a number of shuttles, which was helpful, and always had a tourist rep come on board for the indy guests. You can get euros at the Reception desk for a 5% fee; think they had Swedish and Danish kroner as well. You'll get a sheet with port agent for every port - take that everywhere, and/or take a copy of Currents each day you go out. In Latvia, a bank rep came on board to sell us lats, and he actually took them back at the end of the day, too - coins, included! That was a first for us....

 

Enjoy!

Edited August 22, 2012 by roothy123

[tropicalkerry2002]

Only 3.5 wks till we're on Nautica, Stockholm to Dover. Great to read that she was docked so close to the action in Helsinki!

I have downloaded Discovery Walks tours for Stockholm, Helsinki and Copenhagen, and we'll do it ourselves. Any favourite sights we shouldn't miss?

No tours booked in Riga or Visby-would love to know what you did if you visited these ports.

Tours are booked for St. Petersburg(thanks for the tips!), Tallinn, Gdansk, Berlin, Amsterdam and Brugges.

SO looking forward to this cruise, but I know it will be exhausting. Already looking forward to the Kiel Canal transit day on ship!

[Paulchili]

roothy123,

I know you've put in a lot of work and did a lot of research for your trip and it sounds like it paid of for you.

I am glad it worked out so well.

[roothy123]

Only 3.5 wks till we're on Nautica, Stockholm to Dover. Great to read that she was docked so close to the action in Helsinki!

I have downloaded Discovery Walks tours for Stockholm, Helsinki and Copenhagen, and we'll do it ourselves. Any favourite sights we shouldn't miss?

No tours booked in Riga or Visby-would love to know what you did if you visited these ports.

Tours are booked for St. Petersburg(thanks for the tips!), Tallinn, Gdansk, Berlin, Amsterdam and Brugges.

SO looking forward to this cruise, but I know it will be exhausting. Already looking forward to the Kiel Canal transit day on ship!

 

I was a bit jetlagged and had little time in Copenhagen (only went a day early and had less than 24 hours there), so didn't see all that much there. There is so much to do there that I barely scratched the surface. I went to Nyhavn (very, very crowded, but have to admit, it was a photographer's dream), saw the Mermaid, went to Kastellet (good for a photographer and close to where we docked, Langelinie), took a ride on the cheap city water "bus" instead of a canal tour, and took the train (S-tog I think) to the Botanical Gardens by Rosenberg, where on weekends there are 5 or so weddings a day, I was told. We saw 2 brides there. We went to Tivoli in the evening, and ate at Wagamama near by - Asian, very good, and moderately priced (at least for Copenhagen!) I wanted to go to Rosenberg, the Round Tower, the church with the spiraled tower you can climb, and Christiania, but ran out of time.

 

In Helsinki, I took the shuttle O offered to a place near the market and waterfront. If you dock where Nautica did this week, you can just walk there easily. I took the public ferry down to the Soumenlinna fort, which was wonderful, but combining that with a walk in Helsinki is really too much for one day. I whipped through about 2/3 of the fort, went back to the Market, photographed the Lutheran Church and Uspenski, and went to the train station to look at the art nouveau inside and out. The shuttle didn't run for an hour and 20 mins. during lunch time, so I took tram 9 back to where Marina was docked to eat and pick up my husband. We took the shuttle and just went to the shopping area in town for a little bit, plus around the immediate vicinity, plus a trip to the train station again. We had a fairly short day in Helsinki (8 to 4, with last shuttle at 3) so it was hard to see everything I wanted to see, especially since I went back to the ship for a while. I missed the Rock Church and Sibelius Monument. Some folks on our cruise went to the Rock Church and loved it, particularly since there was a boy's choir there practicing when they visited. That 3T/B tram is very popular and frequent - used it a little bit. Between the compactness of Helsinki's main downtown area and the tram, you can easily see the city on your own.

 

We didn't stay over in Stockholm, so had very, very little time there. I would not miss the subway stations if you're the least bit interested in photography or art. They outshine St. P's subway from what I've seen. I have in my notes which ones looked the most promising, at least from my research, so if you want to know what those are, post again and I'll check my notes. (And yes, Paul, you've no doubt seen my many posts - I planned this trip to death! I didn't get to do all I planned, but loved what I DID see and do!)

 

OK, so on to the cities you really want to know about! Visby was wonderful, at least for a photographer like me. You'll tender into a spot that is about a 10-15 minute walk to the start of the very old, very cute town. You come off of the tender and basically head to the left towards the ferries and town. I found a great map online by Planetware.com that I enlarged and printed. On Marina, this same map was available at the Destinations desk. I went on first tender (with the excursion folks) and headed immediately up north to the "Klinten" area of the city. It was really nice so early when there were few people around. The area is basically around the northwestern part of the city, above the beautiful St. Mary's (I think) church. There are tons of church ruins, a brewery, a cafe, botanical gardens (modest but pretty), Stora Torget market with people selling things, modern library with internet, a beautiful lake with great views of the city, and lots of great shopping if you're a shopper. (I'm not, but I have to admit, there was a lot of quality stuff for sale there!) Visby is definitely a DIY place, although you'd certainly learn more if you took an Oceania walking tour. There's also a very good brochure that a local posted for me in the Ports section on Cruise Critic. When I have more time, maybe tomorrow afternoon, I'll see if I can find notes that would help you find more info on Visby.

 

In Riga, you'll probably dock where most ships do (especially smaller ones), which is about a 10-15 minute walk down (or up?) the river to the Old Town, or a 10-15 min. walk to the art nouveau area. The latter was a "don't miss" for me. It's a little hard to tell you how to get there, but with my notes, I can do that if you want. That would have to be tomorrow as well, though. My husband wasn't able to do as much walking as I was, so we ended up just walking down to the Old Town where we paid 15 euros (or they'll take lats or USD) to take a red hop on hop off bus around the city. Our walk to catch the bus (near the next bridge down) was via a side trip across the overpass very close to the ship, as we wanted to know where the ship's crew were going - turned out to be, not surprisingly, a place to get free wifi! In any case, we ended up at the Central Market, something I knew my husband would enjoy, and spent some time there. We then mostly just took the HOHO bus around with a few stops to see things. A don't miss for photographers is the beautiful Orthodox church. Unlike the similar one in Tallinn, this one had no scaffolding to mar my photography, and I went to the right side to get a great telephoto shot of all the spires merging together. If you're female, you might want to bring a small scarf or hat to wear inside, as that will be appreciated there and in Tallinn. There's no photography allowed inside, but it's amazing - very beautiful. I did see Matilda, and the park there, with the Opera (I think?) and the modern library (distinctive architecture) across the river. Some people weren't impressed with Riga (a little bit rough I suppose) but I thought it had its charms, and for art nouveau, it's amazing. Riga might be a good place to take an Oceania excursion - or you could just do it on your own if you like to walk and aren't exhausted by the time you get there! (This trip was pretty intense - for us, not a single at sea day, with only a half day at sea on the way to Tallinn! Kiel Canal sounds like a good chance to rest up!)

 

Anyway, back to Riga: I'm afraid I missed the other highlights (3 Brothers, Town Hall, etc.) but seeing Alberta iela (street) and the building on Elizabetes 10B with the huge face masks was amazing. If you're looking for the latter, you'll need to look on opposite side of street from where I was, where the numbers did not have an "A" or "B" - just a number! You probably won't buy much in Riga, but if you do, it's not easy, as euros are generally not accepted. We grabbed a quick bite at McD's - absolutely no euros accepted there!

 

Are you using Alla Tours in the "real" St. P? If so, our guide (Alexandra) was great. I heard that the tours in other cities weren't as good, but since the price was right for doing Alla's package, nobody was really complaining.

 

Remind me to post more tomorrow. Also, I hope to have a lot of pictures up on a public site within a week, so you can check those out (if I remember to come back here to post!) so you can see what I did. With guides and tours, you'll probably be able to do more, actually - I'm big on using public transportation, but if I had more money I'd probably do a little less DIYing, as it does tend to slow you down a bit!

Edited August 23, 2012 by roothy123

[Paulchili]

We were in Riga on a land trip and had an excellent guide for just the 2 of us. She was very knowledgeable and reasonable.

Cannot find the name but I am sure I just Googled her. Not only will you get the guide's local expertise and all the explanations that go with that, but she will drive you around in her car thus saving your feet considerably and covering much more ground.

That would be my suggestion for Riga.

[Hunding]

We were in Riga on a land trip and had an excellent guide for just the 2 of us. She was very knowledgeable and reasonable.

Cannot find the name but I am sure I just Googled her. Not only will you get the guide's local expertise and all the explanations that go with that, but she will drive you around in her car thus saving your feet considerably and covering much more ground.

That would be my suggestion for Riga.

 

Paulchili,

 

Could you/Would you please e-mail me at pv1279ataoldotcom? I have a question for you about your experience with Lale Kosagan in Istanbul. Many thanks.

[tropicalkerry2002]

I appreciate your descriptions of things you did in the places I mentioned; I never would have known that the Stockholm subway stations were a highlight, but will try to get to a couple!

I am going to print off what you have written and take it with me.

Thanks again, and good luck with post cruise depression!

O should have a support group for it!

[roothy123]

I appreciate your descriptions of things you did in the places I mentioned; I never would have known that the Stockholm subway stations were a highlight, but will try to get to a couple!

I am going to print off what you have written and take it with me.

Thanks again, and good luck with post cruise depression!

O should have a support group for it!

 

For subway art, there is actually a website that lists the artwork in each station, with some pictures. A lot of the stations have a very cave-like appearance, and artists have decorated the ceilings, keeping a cavish appearance. In others, there are tiles or artwork and so forth. Look at http://www.sl.se. There is also a thread in the "Ports" section of Cruise Critic (see way below on Boards page) in which a Stockholm resident has been answering questions about the city. Here are my notes for Stockholm:

 

Subway (called Tunnelbana) is easiest way to get around. City is divided into three zones, with zone tickets good for several trips within hour. Tickets can be purchased at SL Centers, underground platform barriers, news agent kiosks or via SMS. Can also buy a one day card (though this might apply only to buses - not sure).

 

Part of Central Station (Centralen) is closed for repairs - the part with the blue vines that looks very interesting. One Stockholm person recommends Stadion (rainbow and blue walls - not far from Centralen) & University stations. Solna Centrum looks good (red ceiling, mostly painted). Vasta skogen, close to Centralen, has pretty tiles. Fridhemsplan looks cavish & interesting & isn't far from Centralen. On red line, Morby centrum's not close, but is cavish and pink. Gamla Stan has nice floor and wire design between tracks. On green line, Hotorget has neon ceiling lights.

 

You can find Katarina Elevator right near Slussen metro. It whisks people to heights of Sodermalm for sweeping view of city. Open daily 7:30 to 10 & far up will only cost SEK 10. Address: Ostra Slussgaten.

 

I'll try to post info on Visby in a few minutes, and maybe some Riga stuff tomorrow. I have been asleep at least a third of the day today - you're right, O needs a support group! I also wish there was a magic pill you could take to reverse the effects of jet lag/trip exhaustion!

[roothy123]

Only ship in town per visbyport.com. Arrival is nice, seeing island appear. Tender to Skeppsborn or Soderstrand near wall. Sounds like there’s a good amount of rain in Visby, & all of Baltic, so be prepared! Tonight we eat solo at 6:30 at Polo.

 

1 Krone=15 cents; 10 kronor (SEK) = about $1.50, 50=$7.40, 660=$102

There are only three ATMs in old town: one at Donners Plats, one on Adelsgatan (near Sodorport) & one on Stora Torget. Along Östercentrum there are several others, plus banks. There’s also bank on Adelsgatan which is not far from Soderport. These last 2 might be outside gates.

 

TI is at Donners Plats in Donnerska Huset, yellow house.

 

Jungfrutornet (along sea): If you walk through Kärleksporten at same time as another person you have to kiss her/him.

 

South of St. Nicholas among houses are remains of St. Clement church, built in mid-13th century. To right is old weapon house, where people left weapons before entering church. There is red marble (font) plus ebony & walnut inside intact St. Mary’s church.

 

Wall where you can climb: Väktargången (see #9 on small map) [Ask TI if this is same as Dalmansporten] at city wall is reconstruction of what it was like 700 years ago when ring wall was used as protection. Väktargången opened in May 2009. It has unobstructed views of Norder Graves (shown on TI map), ocean to west & inner city buildings.

 

One ram looks to be outside wall up north; apparently another is at Osterport. Be sure to take photos of ship from high ground above church.

 

Dalman Tower (Dalmansporten) is defensive tower built around original port of Ring Wall. Via stairs inside tower you can climb up several stories & look at view from tower openings. There is also a small screen display which tells of tower & Ring Wall history. Tower is often locked, but key that goes to Dalman Tower & six church ruins & tower can be rented at Gotlands Fornsal (Museum) for a fee. (Do I want to go here first?) Small charge to enter museum, but it has rune stones that look interesting (see book p-o).

Fiskergrand: If you go through big gate (just before Kärleksporten) you’ll find Fishermen's lane. In medieval times fishermen had their businesses here. A rather smelly lane, to improve the smell roses were planted.

 

Norderport: This gate is a favorite, due to seaside views near it & views looking back from inside, with cottages lining the way.

 

Klinten is now a popular spot to take in view over lower town. It’s an attractive maze of small, rose covered homes. A tiny square in hilly part of town, this is where Visby's poor lived. These days the houses cost a fortune & are mainly summer houses. You reach square by walking inside walls to north from Österport gate. Besides nice cottages you will find Visby's tiny old fire station (see pic). Firehouse is on Klinttorget, very close to Österport. When you walk through Österport just take a left & after about 100 meters you will be on Klinttorget (see TI brochure). With wooden cottages & houses painted with tar to keep them sound, there were probably quite a few fires. The old city whipping post is also in square since it was suitable with the "rabble" living there. Can walk on to cathedral hill from here. (Take a pic of ship!) Visby's smallest house (14 square meters) is on sale for 1.5 million. It’s on Norra Murgatan & is white. "Klinten" is all houses between Norra Murgatan & limestone edge. You have Nygatan & Trappgatan included in "Klinten.” Visit Trappgatan (see small map, 7 blue, see eye) near Österport If you want a good view over Visby.

 

St. George (Goran) ruins, near St. Goran’s Gate) & outside walls (see TI brochure). Spa & (I believe pool): http://www.suderhalsan.com; windmill can be seen in distance.

 

Hogklint: try not to miss this wonderful viewpoint five kms south. You can climb it, but personally I love staying on beach at Fridhem below. Hög(e)klint is not even 100 metres high but looking at it from beach it looks higher & setting makes it spectacular. Can climb it from houses below to the north where there are steps & footpath to take you through a nature reserve. On top are stairs to base of cliff.

 

Visby Golfklubb (web cam – see below). Email said golf carts are available for 250 kronor or with doctor’s note 150. 9-hole play is possible on 9-hole course (250-300 kr depending on date) & also on 18-hole course (325-340 kr for 9, depending on date) if booking situation allows it. Rates include tax. Average would be 650 KR, or $108, and think 18 would be about same. Voted #5 Swedish golf club by Golf Digest. Considered one of most challenging. Book tee time via website or e-mail at: info@visbygk.com or telephone +46 498 200930. Club has limited number of motor carts on "as available" basis; reserve when booking tee times. You must have driver's license to rent carts. Club is just south of walls. Info at visbygk.com. Västergarn Kronholmen 415, 622 30 Gotlands Tofta.

 

Food: All day, cheap food is available at Saluhallen, the market opposite old harbor. You buy food & eat at tables by water. Gotlanders have unique license from state to brew beer, but it’s never for sale. There’s small supermarket at Stora Torget. Saffron pancake with berries & cream (saffranspankaka) is specialty. Have ice cream in harbor. There are 2 places beside each other. One makes all ice cream in store; other has 120 flavors, some made themselves. Brewery (Gotlands Bryggeri) is at Hansgatan 47. Think it’s free.

 

Internet: Gotlands Fornsal (museum) has free WiFi in lobby, plus Tidsfördriv, Hästgatan 12, Café Amalia, Hästgatan 3 & Almedalsbiblioteket, Cramérgatan 5 near Almedalen, close to TI. One source said there were terminals in TI office, but another implied there weren’t.

 

Look at http://www.gotland.se.

http://www.webbkameror.se/webbkameror/visbystoratorget/webkamera_visby_10_1280.php shows market place & church ruins

 

Language: Tak means “thanks” See other words in this section or Stockholm section.

Tonight: Check to see if there are maps at Destination Desk! Change clocks ahead 1 hr.

Emergency: Can fly to Visby from Stockholm’s Bromma airport on Flying Enterprise or from Arlanda on Skyways. Ferries are packed in summer, but available near Stockholm at Nynhashamn or Oskarshamn. Trains go to these places. There’s ferry from Timmernabben to Borgholm. Within Sweden just call AC/number if calling long distance within Sweden. To call U.S. dial 00, then 1, then AC/number.

-------------------------

Those were my notes; I didn't see absolutely everything, but sure saw a lot. I think I liked my early morning sojourn to the Klinten area above the main area of town. I'll try to dig up the URL for the map I used, plus the brochure that a local resident found for me. Basically, once you tender to Visby, just walk to the left as I believe I mentioned above. Wear good shoes, as there are cobblestones and some hilly places (though not steep ones) in many parts. For Hogklint you'll need to take an O excursion; golf club a cab (husband likes golf) but the rest is walkable. I used wifi in museum courtyard; didn't use ATMs. Went back to the ship briefly for lunch and to check to see if my husband wanted to go back out with me, so can't report on any restaurants. Didn't spend any money there (another reason to like the place, as I'm a bit cheap!) Weather turned out great; did not seek out rental of keys, and totally forgot and didn't see where you could walk on wall. Don't miss Almadalen Park - great view of city. Tiny, white Klinten house that's reportedly for sale is, I believe, one that only has 2 windows. There's a tiny "house" visible in one of the windows. I don't know the address but it wasn't hard to find.

Edited August 24, 2012 by roothy123

[roothy123]

http://www.planetware.com/map/visby-gotland-map-s-visby.htm

 

See link for map I used. It turned out to be the one that Oceania's destinations folks had available for us, but in a larger version! There is also a lot of info on the planetware site on Visby.

[tropicalkerry2002]

to post all this info! Thanks SO much! I appreciate all your time to post.

People think I research a lot, but you put me to shame.

The 2 of us could plan one HECK of a trip together!

 

Marian

[roothy123]

Yep, it's funny. I used to think I was the only person in the world who planned so much, and did it all on my own. However, I'm finding out that's just not so!

 

Going to try to work on some pictures before I fall asleep (which has been frequent today - ugh) but will copy my Riga stuff tomorrow in case it gives you ideas!

[Miata6]

Roothy- Your excursion descriptions have me already exhausted! We're going next July, will miss Riga and Visby, but will have 3 full days in StPet. We're researching tour companies in StPet and would like to do the others on our own. Will spend the Spring walking to get into shape. Thanks for the postings. Miata6 from Phoenix, Maryland.

[101043XX]

Just back from the same cruise as Ruthy, In StP we used TJ tours Xenia was our guide and fabulous. Had a Hydrofoil ride as well as the subway. Two lunches at Russian restaurants. Reasonably priced. Beware STP is very crowded at the tourist spots be prepared fro long waits:)

[thunderbird56]

Roothy- Your excursion descriptions have me already exhausted! We're going next July, will miss Riga and Visby, but will have 3 full days in StPet. We're researching tour companies in StPet and would like to do the others on our own. Will spend the Spring walking to get into shape. Thanks for the postings. Miata6 from Phoenix, Maryland.

 

Miata;

 

We were there at the end of May and used Alla Tours. Our guide was Elena and the tour was excellent. They offer a 2-day or 3-day Grand Tour for $300 or $420 (much less than the ship excusions). Groups are limited to 16 people max which is a blessing, especially in the very crowded venues. We did a subway ride, a canal boat tour and the hydrofoil to Peterhof (in bad weather - not their fault) plus all the standard stops plus a few extras. Detailed itineraries are on their site. Lunch included on both days. You'll have a great time. You can check them at alla-tour.com.

 

Dennis

[Miata6]

Miata;

 

We were there at the end of May and used Alla Tours. Our guide was Elena and the tour was excellent. They offer a 2-day or 3-day Grand Tour for $300 or $420 (much less than the ship excusions). Groups are limited to 16 people max which is a blessing, especially in the very crowded venues. We did a subway ride, a canal boat tour and the hydrofoil to Peterhof (in bad weather - not their fault) plus all the standard stops plus a few extras. Detailed itineraries are on their site. Lunch included on both days. You'll have a great time. You can check them at alla-tour.com.

 

Dennis

Thank you, Dennis, for the recommendation. We will check Alla out. Regards, Jon

[roothy123]

We also used Alla, comfort tour, Alexandra as tour guide, and were very pleased.

 

Attached are my notes for Riga - a bit disorderly, but hopefully helpful to anyone visiting Riga. Almost all cruise ships dock where we docked so you can probably use the info I've given for where to walk if you are doing this on your own. I cannot guarantee accuracy or timeliness, however. I put some post trip notes in there in italics.

 

 

RIGA: Thurs. Aug. 16, 10 – 5 Port of Riga site http://www.rop.lv/en/ferries-and-cruise/cruising/cruise-vessel-schedule.html shows us as only ship there. One person said exchange rate so-so but no handling fee. Post trip note: In August on Marina, a rep from Latvian bank came on board Marina to exchange money. He also was there in afternoon to buy it back. He also had roubles and euros. We got a small amount of lats but used few. HOHO bus accepted euros; McDonalds did not. For our cruise, there was no shuttle to town offered, but walk was fairly easy. Riga’s an hour later than Visby (7 hrs. later than DC). Be on deck as approach land to see lighthouse.

 

Ask captain if any chance of seeing Sorve lighthouse (iskysulus = lighthouse?) at tip of land in Estonia we pass a ways out of Riga as we’re leaving Gulf of Riga (I’m guessing 60-70 miles using GE). Lighthouse is tall black/white. Sõrve lighthouse Region: island of Saaremaa: dark, all year around, 52m, http://195.50.203.61:8010/TORNID?Lan=935

Riga has east & west mole lighthouses (one white, one red).

 

Latvian lats (LVL) -5=about $8.85; 10=$17.70; multiply lats by 2 & you’ll be close (but a little high. $1=57 cents per buy price). There are ATMs (need PIN & maybe chip) & exchange kiosks in passenger terminal & ATMs widely available around town, including Central Market. Exchange rates vary, but banks are usually good. In 2008 the shop Latvijas Balzams at Valnue 21, behind Riga Hotel (by Opera and Park), consistently offered good rates; opened at 10. Don’t use Valutas Maina. Try to carry small cash as entrance/PT costs are low. When changing money, ask for coins & smaller bills. Post trip note: Some O cruises had shuttle that went to park near House of Blackheads & St. Peter’s Church, by Akman’s Tilts (bridge), but ours did not. Can easily walk, however. There’s sign directing you there. If there was a terminal where we docked, I did not see it – but the ferries come in very close to the dock location, so perhaps there is one there.

 

TIs are in House of Blackheads (small) & Pragus iela 1 at bus station (near Market).

Sometimes House has singing/dancing folks outside in native dress. Exterior is great!

 

Outside Maskavas Centraltirgus (Central Market) are people selling junk. In/around market, watch wallet! Fish market was fascinating to one person (in last hangar).

 

Find Nativity Church with 5 distinctive domes surrounded by crosses. T-4 from station, trolleybus 14 & B-17 go there. Post-trip note: This church was fabulous, including inside. You can take pictures outside (I went to right to get several cupolas together) but not inside. There is a similar one in Tallinn but it had scaffolding on it and was less interesting inside. Opposite is large government building. Alexander Nevsky Church is not far, near Hotel Latvijas, but isn’t special. There’s also an Orthodox church in “Moscow District, Maskavas area” not far from Central Market. Church is called Russian Orthodox Church of St. John the Baptist & it’s at edge of Ivan Cemetery (Ivani Kapi).

 

Kronvalda Park (close to dock) looks beautiful, with tiny white lighthouse by canal and modern white building of Modern Art Museum, pretty much in middle of park by canal.

 

Art Nouveau: (See p-outs, plus this info). Brivibas Street 47, 58, & 62 & at Skuna 2 there are interesting details. Attractive Flower House is at corner of Maza Monetu & Maza Juanava, not far from Ratslaukems. Others: Strelinka 4a (women with wreaths) & outside city center there’s Kaleju 23 (colorful). Smilsu iela between Jekaba & Maza Smilsu iela looks like it has great stuff.

 

If you are looking for faces on facades, these are best examples:

http://www.jugendstils.riga.lv/eng/J.../strelnieku4a/

http://www.jugendstils.riga.lv/eng/J...efels/skunu10/

 

Atlas & Globe: Teatra Iela, 9– street that runs into Opera House, built 1903. This building is decorated with images of mythological gods - Athena & Hermes. Crowned by Atlas, holding on his shoulders a globe of glass & zinc.

 

Near 3 Brothers (#9 on best map), walk down Klostera iela – winding, small & scenic.

 

In summer you can take boat trips on Daugava departing from 11 Novembra krastmala, close to Akmens Tilts. Departures per Bradt (’08) are 11, 1, 3, etc. & each trip lasts an hour. No web site at time of writing. If you’re looking for quick tour of Old Riga you can take advantage of electric passenger train/cars that depart from H-1, Doma laukums in front of cathedral every day for 3Ls. [Did not see this, but may have existed!] It’s good way to see main sights without tripping over cobblestones/amber vendors & it stops at all the best places to take a quick snapshot. If you’re looking for something more extreme you can take ride a bicycle rickshaw on H-2, Līvu Square.

 

Large monument of 2 or 3 men is Latvian Riflemen behind Occupation Museum, near Akmens Tilts. Post note: This is where you can take Hop On Hop Off buses. We took red one; it costs 15 euros or $20 or you can pay with lats. Comes only once an hour to each stop, though. Walk across bridge to get good view of castle. Across bridge is Latvian National Library (pyramid).

 

View from St. Peter’s Church (19 Skarnu – see #4 best map) looks worthwhile. Buy ticket in church entrance (1.5L in 2008, maybe $3) and take elevator up for 360 view. Also there’s Riga from the balcony of 17th floor of Latvian Academy of Sciences, 65 meters up. 8-10. Akademijas laukems 1. 2 lats. Web site is panoramariga.lv

 

Brivibas piemineklis (Freedom Monument - #14) has changing of guard every hour on hour between 9 & 6. It’s at Brivibas & Raina in park.

 

Olympic Casino C-4, Brīvības 31 (entrance from Dzirnavu), http://www.olympic-casino.com. Located in Radisson Blu Hotel, Latvija, supposedly biggest casino (chain?) in Baltics. There are other Olympic casinos in Tallinn. Ones in Tallinn are open 24hrs; not sure of Riga.

 

Public toilets are few; use hotels & restaurants & men's are marked with a V, K, or upside-down triangle, women's with S, D, or point-side-up triangle. Post cruise info: Central Market had one; paid a small amount of money to attendant to use; grabbed toilet paper from dispenser on wall before entering toilet stalls! By the way, Central Market was fun, but not a “must do” unless you want to do some shopping (food, clothes, shoes, etc.)

 

Riga in Your Pocket is great online guide to Tallinn, Riga, etc.

 

Sand sculptures: http://www.makeart.lv/en/how-find-us Just walk across bridge (takes about 20 mins. from House of Blackheads). Sculptures are located on jetty between both sides of river, but must enter on left side.

 

Lighthouses: Daugavgrīva (Bolderāja) 1957 (station established at least by 1721). Active; focal plane 37 m (121 ft); white flash every 2.5 s. 35 m (115 ft) round cylindrical concrete tower with lantern/gallery, painted with black & white horizontal bands; lantern painted black with red roof. Pretty. Located on west side of entrance to Daugava River/Rīga harbor. Should see on way in/out. Also there are red and white canister type molle lighthouses, plus tiny lighthouse in Kronvalda Park (see above).

 

Authorized cabs are orange/black, metered & more expensive from port than in town. If use taxi to old town, ask price & pay not more than 5-7 LVL from port.

 

Bus routes: http://saraksti.rigassatiksme.lv/index.html#riga/map,page/en

 

Post trip notes: We ended up just walking down river towards next bridge; took red HOHO bus from Rifleman statue (15 euros, $20 or equivalent in Latvian lats; buses come only once an hour to intermediate stops. Not sure if worth it, but at least it didn’t cost a lot. You’ll still need to get off and walk a bit to see things, as is customary with this kind of HOHO bus.) If want to take a tram instead to Old Town, there is a tram (#9; maybe others) in the park near the dock location but I don’t know where it goes. It’s a little bit tricky to find it, but just head up Eksporta iela (road right near dock location) in direction going away from Old Town, toward ferries. When get to 3 very bright red (in August, anyway) sculpted bushes, cross over to park. If want to see art nouveau on Elizabetes & Alberta, might as well walk from dock location. Cross over to park (as above), find Elizabetes iela (street, which starts there) and walk to almost the end to find 10B on right-hand side. I found out that the “B” attached to the 10 means that it is on the other side of the street – so don’t go by numbering on other side of street! Once you’ve seen the huge faces on blue façade at 10B, use map to get to Alberta iela – not far but probably need a good map. When I came back from Elizabetes, the gate to the port area near the 3 red bushes was open (with a guard), making it quicker to approach the ship from the back rather than walking around to the gate at the front of the ship (closer to Old Town). When you get off ship, to go to Old Town keep river on your right; for art nouveau, your left. Either walk takes about 10-15 minutes. If you want wifi, go over overpass you’ll come to very soon after leaving dock – look for crew members sitting in back of a gas station right over the overpass! You can also get to Old Town this way – just a little bit harder!

 

F’s says trams 6 & 11 connect Old Town with the Esplanade area. Buy tix at outlets & validate on board. Can buy tram tix on board for little more than at kiosks.

 

Cafés: Pulvertonis at Valnu 3 is cheap in Old Town. Pauze at Brivibas 3 is cheap & canteen-like, overlooking busy Brivibas. Senais Fredis on Audeju, Kolanade, Café Nation, Monte Kristo, Rama & Zen are also mentioned by LP. For pastries, dumplings, etc. head to Pelmeni XL (Kalku 7) or Pelmeni at A Caka 38a, entrance on Gertrudes). The mother in law bakes best piragi at Sievasmates piradzini (Kalku 10). Sweet & savory topping pancakes are why there’s a line on street for Setpavars Vilhelms, a cafeteria style place in Old Town (Chef William, Skunu 6). F’s recommends Staburags at Caka 55 (Latvian, inexpensive, cash only). Also see Bradt printout (restaurants marked).

 

Restaurants recommended by a local:

Melnie Muki (Black munks) (old town), Bergs (in Berga Bazars, outside old town) Fellini (in Berga Bazars), Vincents (in Elizabete iela, on the way to andrejsala) (see description in p-o), Del popolo (Italian place in old town, great lunch place.)

 

Internet: Port terminal has internet access. Most cafes in Old Town offer Wifi, so do hotels. Arenas in red-brick cellar on Gertrudes iela 45; Dual Net Café on Peldu17 & Poligons Dzirnavu 55 & many more. In Old Town, Bradt lists Dualnet Café, 17 Peldu (next to Ainvas Hotel; Planeta at 14 Pils; & Vecais at 10 Kalku. In New Town, there is DR Cetrs, 75 Elizabetes iela & Ultra LV at 123 Caka. “Easy to find open access at coffee shops too.”

 

Language: sveiki (“sveyki”) is hello; paldies is thankyou.

 

[Look at inyourpocket.com/riga for info, maps, etc., starting with Things to Do. Look at churches section for pictures. May have been from a tab to left, not descriptions in pdf.

 

Cruise Critic local likes Elizabetes 10 in the afternoon.

 

http://www.rigathisweek.lv/ See latviatourism.lv

 

Tonight: Check for map at Destination Desk!

 

In suburbs is Motor Museum (Rigas motormuzejs, Eizensteina iela 6, costs 2 lats per web site ($3.80), 8 km east along Brivibas iela, then 2km south to Mezciems suburb). There are cars that belong to Gorky, Stalin, Khruschchev & Brezhnev – complete with life-size figures of the men. Lots of plating. Take bus 21 from Russian Orthodox Cathedral [on Brivibas?] to Pansionats stop on Smerla iela. Bradt says “easiest way is to catch trolley bus #21 from Brivalbus (Stacijas laukums?) & get off at Gailezers Hospital, 500 meters from museum.” Can also take18 trolley bus from Caka. Museum is not easy to spot – look for Audi dealer, a modern red brick & glass building. Entrance is reached via bridge from carpark. Open 10-6. Looks like cab would be best.

 

Latvian Ethnographic Open Air Museum (Latvijas etnografiskais muzeejs – one or two lats, $3-4) is on shores of Lake Jugla on city’s east edge & has lots of wooden buildings. Take bus 1 from corner of Merkela & Terbatas to Brivdabas muzejs stop. DK says you can take bus 1, 19, 28.

 

Organized tours: amber@neonoet.lv (2 hr. bus trips of city, departing from House of Blackheads (interesting architecture, museum inside) at noon, 6 lats, at least several years ago, with tix available from TI or bus driver.

[roothy123]

As a P.S., Alla Tours is quite popular as you can simply sign up for them and do not have to worry about getting enough people to get the price you want from them as is (I think) the case for DenRus, SPB and some of the other well-known companies. In researching, it helps to remember:

1. Some companies use buses; others vans. I was a little afraid that with 16 people on a van, we'd be cramped - but it was fine.

2. In general, you can't customize a tour unless you get a group together and pay more. You also pretty much have to go on whole trip unless you sit out part of it - think I explained this before but if not, and you want more info, let me know!

3. Alla recommended a 10% tip for the driver and guide combined - which we paid, plus a little more.

4. Of course everyone wants to go to the Hermitage because it is famous, but quite honestly, 2 hours of Rembrandts, Picasso's, etc. was a little more than I needed! I believe all tour groups get early entry into Cath's Palace, Hermitage, etc. but it's still crowded, and there's a bit of waiting. It got a little warm, too. Not good if you're claustrophobic, also! Cath's Palace was the worst.

5. Alla does only the outside of Peterhof (fountains - stunning) and inside of Cath's Palace. Believe me, that's completely adequate! There's only so much gilt you need before you start wishing you had sunglasses!

6. I didn't get much feedback from other people on other companies, but it's my impression that all of the major ones do similar things, and are fairly similar in pricing.

7. If you're interested in letting Alla give you tours in other cities (Berlin, Riga, etc.) she has a package that decreases the price quite a bit compared to doing shore excursions in each city she services. I hear that the quality was a bit variable from city to city (with SP the best) but the folks who did this felt the price was right, and it was certainly easier than trying to do the other ports on their own.

8. If I didn't go into my "get in line to go off the ship early" spiel before, here it is: Just about everyone goes off the ship in SP the first day, so if you're scheduled to meet a tour group at a particular time (say, around 8:30), give yourself at least 30-45 minutes to get off the ship and get through the Russian passport control (like at an airport). At least with our ship (1250 pax), there were 4 tours scheduled to go out early (8:00) and when we went to depart the ship a little before 8, there was a long line of pax waiting to go leave the ship, which had only docked around 7:30 and gotten clearance around 7:45. It took us a half hour to get off the ship, get through passport control in the terminal, and walk a little way to meet our group. One couple was late because they left their stateroom at 8:15 for an 8:30 meet up with Alla. Alla waited a bit, but then took off with the 14 of us - but someone waited for the couple and got them caught up to us at a photo stop around 9. They were VERY embarrassed, though - so keep in mind that you cannot just stroll off the ship in Russia. In other ports it usually took 2 minutes, but other ports are not in Russia!

9. I found the subway less interesting than I thought it would be - but I suppose for everyone, it's different. However, I would NOT plan a trip around that, or choose a tour because of it. My faves were Church of Spilled Blood, Cath's Palace, & Peterhof Gardens. We had the hydrofoil ride - kind of fun, and quickest way to get back and forth, so many companies offer it, I think.

Edited August 25, 2012 by roothy123

[tropicalkerry2002]

I am going to need a 2nd suitcase for all the paperwork I am taking on this cruise! But, I rarely leave a port on a cruise feeling I should have seen/done more!

Only 17 days till we fly to Stockholm, only 11 days at work. Yippee!

[roothy123]

You'll have a fabulous, but kind of exhausting, time! If you want my copious notes, and are willing to post your email address here (might get more spam from it- not sure) I'd be happy to send my notes. It wasn't possible to post all of them here, as they're too long!!

 

Of course, keep in mind that many of my notes were compiled using info that wasn't verified, or aren't up to date. Also, I ended up doing only maybe 2/3 of what I researched, but I sure had fun planning things! The shore excursions are expensive (especially in the pricey Baltic) and DIYing saved us some money so we could take another cruise again soon (hopefully, anyway)! I'm working on pictures now - check http://www.pbase.com/roothy123 in a day or two!

Edited August 31, 2012 by roothy123

[roothy123]

I've posted photos from Baltic Treasures here: http://www.pbase.com/roothy123 if anyone's interested in viewing them.

[Paulchili]

I've posted photos from Baltic Treasures here: www.pbase.com/roothy123 if anyone's interested in viewing them.

 

Great pictures - thank you for posting!

[rheasue38]

Hi Roothy,

Loved your pictures.Brought back so many memories! We were on Baltic Treasures in July, 2012 and we also did Mayan Mystique in Jan. 2012. Do you have any other Oceania cruises booked? We sail on Sept.12, 2012 on the Marina on a 15 night cruise to Spain, Portugal, France, Belgium and Morocco out of Dover.We're also sailing next March on the Riveria in the Caribbean on a 14 night cruise.

Thanks again for sharing your photos! Noting like an Oceania cruise!

Rhea

[roothy123]

Hi Roothy,

Loved your pictures.Brought back so many memories! We were on Baltic Treasures in July, 2012 and we also did Mayan Mystique in Jan. 2012. Do you have any other Oceania cruises booked? We sail on Sept.12, 2012 on the Marina on a 15 night cruise to Spain, Portugal, France, Belgium and Morocco out of Dover.We're also sailing next March on the Riveria in the Caribbean on a 14 night cruise.

Thanks again for sharing your photos! Noting like an Oceania cruise!

Rhea

 

Sadly, we don't have anything booked at this time. However, I'm sure it won't be long until we cruise again. It's in our blood, and we're very loyal Oceania passengers, as I guess you could tell! We also like Viking River Cruises, although that's obviously a whole different type of cruising.

 

That Spain and Portugal cruise sounds wonderful. My husband is itching to see Portugal, and the few places I've been in Spain were wonderful, so I know I'd love any visit to Spain! Then again, there really aren't too many places I can think of that I would NOT like to visit - I just love to travel, and since retiring, I am doing as much of it as I can!

[tropicalkerry2002]

This morning Hubby and I sat and enjoyed your photos...great photos, and looks like you were very lucky with the weather...I'm hoping for the same. Looked at weather in St Petersburg the other day 41F at 0800...gunna pack gloves and little earmuffs! Then I expect we'll de-layer as we go through day, and layer up again!

I've just printed off all the info you so kindly posted. Again, many thanks.

Less than 2 weeks till we fly to Stockholm, and 2 weeks tomorrow we board Nautica! So exciting!