Russia with Vantage, Aug., 2012

[Hydrokitty]

Day 1. Arrived in Kiev and met our tour manager, Irina S., who would be with us for the entire trip. I’ve never met anyone with more patience than Irina! She seemed to know where every bathroom and restaurant was in Kiev! Hotel Intercontinental is beautiful and our room is very comfortable over-looking the police station (which is pink) and St. Michael’s Square. Welcoming dinner at the hotel was delicious.

Day 2. One of the prettiest breakfast buffets I’ve ever seen, and the food was as good as it looked. Our first tour of Kiev began with a tour to Kiev-Percherska Lavra Monastery and caves and Golden Treasure Museum. WOW! Arrived to an open air Mass being sung by a male choir that took your breath away. The caves were very interesting but Vantage should have told us we would need skirts and scarves. A large number of husband’s took off their caps and loaned them to their wives! Fortunately, they didn’t make a fuss over our lack of skirts because none of us were wearing them. The walk through the caves is done by candlelight and is one of the most solemn and holy places in the country. It was very moving. After lunch we took the optional tour to Pirogovo, which is an open air museum similar to Colonial Williamsburg. We had loads of fun making our own Ukrainian Easter Eggs. I can’t believe they made it all the way back to NY in one piece! One note about Pirogovo: the bus could not go to the entrance and we had to walk about ½ mile to the entrance and then walk through the park and back to the bus. A total of about 3 miles in all with no places to stop and rest. If you have trouble walking long distances or uneven terrain seriously reconsider this optional tour. While it was very interesting, it was not a “must see” (IMHO). Dinner was on our own and we went to a restaurant next to the hotel where we had chicken Kiev and strawberry dumplings for desert. I am hooked on dumplings!

Day 3. Walking tour of St. Sophia’s Cathedral, which is stunning, followed by a bus tour of Kiev and a visit to a local cafeteria for lunch. It was fun to eat as the locals eat, but I felt badly because we were all taking time to decide what to choose while they were on their lunch hour, which resulted in much pushing, shoving and some hard feelings. After lunch a walk across the street to the Bessarabsky Market where fruits, vegetables, nuts, spices and flowers are so beautifully displayed, you just wanted to buy everything. Dinner again on our own and we went to a local restaurant dedicated to Khrushchev and the Soviet era. First thing as we approached were vodka shots and bread with slices of lard!! I’ll try anything as long as it isn’t fish and after instructions on how to drink the vodka swilled it down like a native and then ate the bread and lard, which was surprisingly good. Vodka was flavored with cranberry and tasted delicious…..then came the kick which starts at your toes and ends at your brain!! Dinner was stuffed cabbage and desert was Kiev cake, which was absolutely the best cake I have ever eaten.

Day 4. On our own, which was good because between the Kiev airport and the hotel DH’s suitcase was destroyed and we had to buy a new one. We walked down the hill to the mall, where no one spoke English and finally found a beautiful young woman who not only spoke English but insisted on walking us to the luggage store so she could practice her English on us! The walk up the hill was a killer so our next venture involved a stroll through St. Michael’s Cathedral and grounds, which is not included in the tour due to its proximity to the hotel, and a ride down the hill on the funicular. Our farewell Kiev dinner was in a converted ammunition bunker now decorated like a farmhouse. Dinner was chicken Kiev (what else) followed by folk singing and dancing.

Day 5. Nice leisurely breakfast with a late morning departure to the airport and a later afternoon arrival in Moscow. Dinner was on our own so six of us went to Chili’s. Hint: Change Ukrainian money to Russian BEFORE you get to Moscow.

Day 6: City tour of Moscow beginning with a walking tour of the New Maiden Convent, followed by a visit to the University and the tallest over-look of the city. Weather was typical Moscow, over-cast with occasional showers, so view not the best but the souvenir venders did a great business. Then on to ride the famous Moscow Metro. It’s very very deep so if you tend to vertigo, make sure you have someone tall in front of you! The stations are spotlessly clean and beautifully decorated with statues and marble.

We got off at the Arbat district, which is a pedestrian shopping area, and had lunch at MacDonald’s! We only had 45 minutes for lunch and every place was mobbed, but we all agreed it was the freshest and best big Mac we’d ever had! Welcome dinner to Moscow in the hotel…..chicken Kiev….the best of them all.

Day 7: Optional tour to Sergiev Posad, which is a must see. Walking on flat surfaces and plenty of places to sit and rest. This is a magnificent 14th century monastery and comparable to the Vatican in its history as a holy place. The guided tour is by a seminarian and included the grave of Boris Godunov, the only Czar not buried in the Kremlin; the remains of St. Sergius in the Cathedral of the Trinity; and the Cathedral of the Assumption. After dinner on our own at a little place called the “Soviet Café” we joined the optional Moscow by Night, another not to be missed tour. Moscow becomes a fairy land at night with most every building, bridge and tower decorated in multi-colors. A stop at the lake that supposedly inspired Tchaikovsky to write Swan Lake and had a marvelous view of the New Maiden Convent, was followed by Midnight at the Kremlin, which was packed with families and children, and is spectacular.

Day 8: This morning we toured the Kremlin and the State Armory with it’s fabulous collection of Faberge eggs, coronation robes and coaches and Icons. Hint: Lunch is not included so after breakfast at 9 a.m. you have no opportunity to eat again until 7:30 dinner on the ship!! Make sure you grab a roll and some breakfast meat and cheese to slap together a quick sandwich to eat on the bus….there is no place to eat inside the Kremlin or the Armory! Arrived at the ship around 4 p.m., our bus was late and we were the last to board, we were met with musicians and traditional bread and salt . Captain’s welcome dinner was at 7:30 and was very nice. Choice of red or white wine with every dinner, but soft drinks were extra.

Day 9: Uglich: Walking tour of Uglich and the Church of St. Dmitri on the Blood. DH said it was very nice but another long walk. I confess, I bailed on the culture part and joined another couple for some serious shopping therapy! No regrets!!

Day 10: Yaroslavl: Pouring rain and I’m catching a cold, so I stayed behind again and sent DH to Rostov and Lake Nero to St. Jakob Monastery. Slept all day and have no other memories.

Day 11: Yaroslavl: Beautiful day and feeling better. Bus tour of the city of Yaroslavl including the food market where we were allowed to sample packaged spice mixtures. One of them was absolutely fantastic so I bought a box…I have no idea what is in it, except paprika, but it tastes great on chicken, fish and pork.

Day 12: Goritsky. Tour of the Monastery of St. Cyril on White Lake. Temperature dropping and fatigue starting to set in, so again I bailed on culture and stayed on board the ship.

Day 13: Kitzhi Island: One of my favorite places in Russia. This was fantastic!! Walk from ship to the Cathedral and other buildings is about ½ mile on paved boardwalk. Cathedral is mind-blowing….20+ domes and not a single nail!!!

Day 14: Mandrogi: My second favorite stop. Very easy walking distance to ship. Town is filled with colorful summer homes, including one very large one belonging to Vladimir Putin! This is where you buy stuff!!! Beautiful crafts, great prices and shop after shop. Thank you Vantage for a short orientation walk, followed by a fantastic BBQ lunch on shore and plenty of free time to walk around and leisurely shop.

Day 15: St. Petersburg: Disembark after breakfast and a bus tour of the city, including the beautiful Church on the Spilled Blood, which rivals St. Basil’s in size and beats it in beauty (again imho). A tour of Peter and Paul Fortress and some photo stops along the river with a stop for lunch (boxed lunch provided by the Tolstoy) at a very pretty park. Another beautiful hotel, Corinthia Hotel, and spectacular room looking over Nevsky Prospect, the main street. Dinner at the Soviet Café, where we indulged on more dumplings filled with cherries this time and followed by an evening at the Hermitage Theater for a full performance of SwanLake. If you like ballet, this was marvelous. If you don’t like ballet, this was very nice. If you’ve never been to the ballet, this is not to be missed.

Day 16: Another wonderful buffet breakfast and we’re off to the Hermitage Museum where we had to put on paper booties over our shoes to protect the original wood floors. Be careful, they can be slippery. This afternoon we took the optional rivers and canal tour. It was nice, but the weather was rainy, windy and cold and we really didn’t see anything that we hadn’t seen from the bus so if you really like boat rides (we do) take the tour but if you’d rather go off on your own, you haven’t missed anything.

Day 17: The day we’ve all been waiting for…Catherine’s Palace. We were met at the entrance by musicians who played and danced for us! It’s hard to look at all this gold and not understand why there was a revolution. The amber room was nothing like I expected and I won’t spoil it for anyone else, just that it was more than beautiful. Again imho, Catherine’s Palace makes Versailles look shabby! After lunch we continued on for the optional trip to Pavlovsk, Catherine built for her son as a summer getaway. Much more intimate than Catherine’s Palace and nowhere near as opulent. Dinner at the Soviet Café again where we met a young Russian couple who asked where we were from and from there we spent 3 hours talking about the US and Russia. It was a highlight of the trip for us.

Day 18: Our last optional and another that’s not to be missed. Peterhof is another palace that was inspired by Versailles and looks out over the Baltic Sea with the most spectacular fountains I have ever seen. The grounds are easy to walk around with plenty of places to sit and rest. Walk down to the waterfront and Monplaisir for great views of the Baltic Sea. Tonight was our farewell dinner at the hotel and those of us flying Lufthansa became aware of the strike today!

Day 19: Flight home delayed 3 hours in St. Petersburg so we missed our flight from Frankfort to New York. A bonus day in Frankfort eating and sleeping on Lufthansa’s dime, who can complain.

[H2Otstr]

Great review; thank you for posting. You were so fortunate to be able to stay in town in Moscow and St. Pete's. We spent hours getting back and forth to town from the ship. You also stopped at a few small towns that our tour missed (Grand Circle).

 

Several people from our tour got caught in the Lufthansa strike, too. Haven't heard if anyone got stranded, though. Our flight was one of the few that was not changed or canceled.

[Hydrokitty]

Thank you for the kind words! We really heard nothing about the strike until two days before departure and info was very sketchy. Our flight from St. Pete to Franfort was delayed due to the strike but when we were about an hour from landing LH announced that those of us who missed connections had already been rebooked for next day and LH had reserved rooms for us and would provide meal vouchers for dinner and breakfast. When we landed we were met by LH personnel who escorted us through passport and immigration and to our respective hotels! I've never been so well treated by an airline!

As for Moscow and St. Pete that's primary reason we chose Vantage. They are the only company that uses hotels and it saves so much time.. it took us almost an hour to go from Kremlin to dock that's why we were last bus to board! This was our sixth trip with them and we've never been disappointed.

[Talisker92]

Great review! We will be going on the same cruise next year!

[Hydrokitty]

Hi Steve and Kathy! I'm so glad you enjoyed my review. You will love Russia and I hope you can do pre-trip Kiev..it was marvelous! A couple of suggestions if I may: upgrade your cabin selection to Jr suite if at all possible you won't regret it. I hope you get Irina as your t.m.. natasha as your Kiev guide and Sergei in Moscow.

[abredt]

Was the river crowded such that the ships were docked next to each other?

 

How many days did you sleep on the ship?

cb

[Hydrokitty]

Was the river crowded such that the ships were docked next to each other?

 

How many days did you sleep on the ship?

cb

 

NO...we were usually with one other river cruisers in the locks and we did see other ships on the river and in ports and there were a couple of ports where we were docked no more than 3 deep but it never seemed crowded. It was usually in the smaller ports and the only time you knew they were there was when they were passing through. Of course you were mindful if the tandem ship was on your side but again most of the time it was when everyone was on shore and since we all left at different times we were never tied together for more then a few hours. My method of dealing with this is this: open your drapes/ door and wave at the first person who looks at you! I've met some really interesting people that way and even shared tea and cookies with a couple from England....on the Nile! We just passed stuff across our balconies and since we were going in opposite directions shared info. Ya gotta keep squeezing the lemons! :D

We were on the ship for 7 nights....sat. to sat. And slept all 7 nights. :)

[pixiegirl-loves-travel]

I enjoyed your review. I loved the river cruise I took (with another company) in late July. The rivers and canals tour in St Pete's was one of my favorite tours! I have to say though that after several days of rain, we had a gorgeous day for our canals tour, which helped make it so special. I especially loved seeing Chizhik Pyzhik~ even if one of our ship mates was nearly decapitated trying to hit it with a coin while simultaneously going under a low bridge, lol!

 

I didn't care for Mandrogi, but it was pouring rain that day and very cold. I also bear a permanent scar on the top of my foot because of being injured by flying glass at a Moscow McDonalds! My daughter and I were compensated with free meals and it was totally worth it. ;)

 

It's hard to even pick a favorite thing, because there were so many wonderful tours and options on the Russian River cruises! I'm glad you enjoyed your trip as much as I enjoyed mine! Did you visit Alexander Park outside of the Kremlin? The fountains there are exquisite and fun! :)

[Hydrokitty]

We did but not for very long....it's too bad you had bad weather in Mandrogi but I do understand how much rain can effect your impressions..we were very lucky in St Petersburg because our t.m. said they only get about 30 days of sunshine a year and we got 3 of them! The day we went on the canal ride wasn't one of the sunny ones! It

is hard to pick one favorite because each of the places were so different...I think if I had to pick one it would be Kizhi...I can't get the stave church out of my mind it was just amazing!!

[Hydrokitty]

I moved it up for you! Enjoy!:)

[4774Papa]

I moved it up for you! Enjoy!:)

Thanks, good review.

[Hydrokitty]

Thank you! :) What's on your agenda for future trips? "Talked" to you so much on cc, I'd love to meet you on a trip!!

[Gail & Marty sailing away]

Thanks for the info ..