Voyager to the Baltic - Vol. 5 - Seeing the Sights

[Call me Ishmael]

Contrary to the suggestion appearing as an endnote to Part 4, the morning after must wait until later.

 

 

The itinerary of this cruise was even more interesting than I had anticipated. One of the very touches from RSSC is free shuttle service in ports whenever appropriate. Sadly, there is rarely any information in advance. In the Netherlands, our first call on the way to Baltic, the ship was to dock at Ijmuiden. Yes, I felt the same way; what and where is Ijmuiden. Researching methods of getting from the land of Ij. to Amsterdam, I found a distinct lack of options. No bus, no train, too far for taxi. There was a high speed ferry that went up the river, but it did leave from the port where the ship would dock. RSSC wanted a hefty $79 per person to transfer into Amsterdam. Due to connection concerns, I finally opted for the ship excursion by bus with canal boat cruise which, oddly, cost $49. Go figure (I couldn’t). However, when I learned that RSSC would be providing a free shuttle service from the ship to the high speed ferry dock, I was mildly irked.

 

 

So it was in Copenhagen, Talinn and St. Petersburg that there were free shuttles. The ship docked near the famed Little Mermaid (and the fame is a testament to the power of Danish p.r. and not much more), but a shuttle was provided into town with the terminus near city hall. For those who walked into town and sought the bus back, there was some difficulty as the dot on RSSC’s map was somewhat vague. If you avail yourself of any one-way shuttles, be sure you are fully advised of the loading and unloading location. Sadly, do not expect a shuttle gratis at the conclusion of your cruise if you are “independent.” At our final destination of Stockholm, we were offered a series of choices ranging from $35 to $75 per person for a bus ride either into town or to the airport, respectively. Do not be tempted by the early notice delivered with your de-boating luggage tags. In Stockholm, there was a very long line of well surpervised taxis waiting for those intrepid independents. The drivers of relatively small vehicles were quite adept at loading up to four people and untotaled suitcases into said vehicles.

 

 

In Tallinn , there was a caveat that walking into town would not be feasible. There was also a note that a free shuttle would be provided, but “RSSC did not guarantee it would run nor that there would be sufficient seats, blah, blah, blah.” The excursion office said not to worry. Leaving the ship, we noted a regular stream of passengers walking from the docks towards the town. There were also buses which we took to and from the City proper. Someone was confused.

 

 

Perhaps the warnings were intended for the prior day when we were in Visby? But I get ahead of myself.

 

 

In St. Petersburg, there was also a shuttle, although this was described as a one a day schedule. There was also an advisory that if one took a cab back to the ship, one might be “dropped at the gates”. Heed this warning! The ship tied up in the large, industrial port. There are stern guards with dogs manning the gates, dubiously inspecting paperwork for each vehicle seeking entry. No wonder cabbies want nothing to do with entering this Hades, a throwback to pre-glasnost days. It was the one moment I noted some hesitancy in our otherwise utterly calm RO driver. Should you successfully pass checkpoint Vladimir (if you look closely you will see one guard who bears a striking resemblance to the former spy who now heads the country), you will still face a very looong hike (reputed to be as much as three miles) in a very long shipyard to the ship. There is at least one independent couple on the Baltic board who have never reappeared since their cruise on another line. I fear that they met some unhappy fate in the shipyard – perhaps shanghaied to serve Bligh on a Liberian freighter bound for the upper Congo. (Awkk; pieces of eight, matey!)

 

 

The real nightmare was in Visby or rather offshore at Visby. For the sake of completeness, I repeat my comments from an earlier thread.

 

 

There was a major problem in the tendering process at Visby. We were told that the ship's excursions would board first with independents added as there was space on the tenders. We were told to pick up a number in the small show lounge across from the casino.

 

We arrived in the lounge shortly after the anchoring time of 1 pm to find it filled beyond capacity with passengers spilling out into the hallway. We were told it would be about a 20 minute wait.

 

After 45 minutes I inquired if there was more than one tender being used. I was told there was but that the tendering took about 20 minutes each way. The tenders hold 100 passengers each according to their signage, so it seemed like at least 3 tenders would be needed to promptly tender everyone. However, it was apparent that a third tender was not launched until the troops became very restless.

 

Meanwhile, there were passengers without numbers or excursion tickets who were allowed to board tenders without regard to the 150 or more who were following the stated procedure.

 

Finally, at about 2:15, our number was called. We were by no means the last ones to depart the ship, yet the tender sailed without a quick check to see if there were empty seats, which they were. We reached land at 2:30 where a sign reminded us that the ship was sailing at 5:30.

 

Some acquaintances who had signed up for an excursion were also steamed as they waited until 2:00 before they were able to tender over. The first tender was called fairly soon after anchoring. After that first one, it seemed to be very, very slow going.

 

Since we only had 4 hours in port to begin with, wasting an hour and a half just to tender over one way was a major demerit in my opinion. It was not well organized, managed or implemented.

 

 

Someone asked if I raised holy hell over this incident and I confessed I had not. As I usually am inclined to “blow a gasket” when presented with organizational incompetence, I had to think back to the day to determine why the plutonium never reached critical mass. Ah yes. The day we were anchored at Visby was the very date my wife and I were wed. Although largely untrainable, I have learned that such days should be all billing and cooing and not squawking and clawing. Upon our return to the ship, we found a note from the captain, two glasses of champagne, and a delicious cake on a plate decorated with “Happy Anniversary.” Followed by a few more glasses to toast the day, dinner and wine at Signatures where another celebratory cake appeared and I was ready to forget, or had forgotten, the earlier ugly start to Visby.

 

 

A few additional words about the ports and sights are in order, subject to some preliminary discussion (how unusual). If I say that you must not miss the origami collection in Riga, and you have already seen the more famous folds found in Kuala Lumpur, then you will be disappointed. And if you have no interest in swan shaped paper to begin with, then you will assume, rightly, that I have a fetish not shared by the average traveler.

 

 

With that preface, let me say don’t miss the Vasa Museum in Stockholm. For those who don’t know, the Vasa, a 300+ year old warship commissioned by the King, sank on its maiden voyage about 50 feet after launch. Call it a testament to government folly, government incompetence, government whitewash afterwards, or just an astounding bit of history, the Vasa deserves a visit. You may, as I did before going there, say “a wooden boat, oh well.” Wooden boat indeed. The phrase conjures up an image of a rough hewn dingy. Nothing could be more inaccurate. If you visit the Vasa and your jaw does not drop at least once, then let me know and I will send you my leftover kroner and the name of a lockjaw specialist.

 

 

We also enjoyed Stockholm’s city hall with its Nobel prize connection; the old town (Gamla Stan); the royal palace; and the changing of the guard which we just happened to stumble across. It was less crowded and more entertaining than others we have seen such as at Monte Carlo. The cruise into or out of Stockholm also deserves your attention. If you like islands, there are 24,000 or so awaiting you.

 

 

St. Petersburg was the ultimate travel pleasure. In some sense it reminded me of Venice with its opulent history, decay, and anachronistic appearance in present day. All the usual raves are deserved and incapable of doing justice to such wonders as the fountains at Peterhof, the amber room at Catherine’s Palace, the Hermitage (and not just for the art but the palaces themselves which comprise the Hermitage), numerous churches and cathedrals and just about everything else that comes into view.

 

 

Tallinn and Visby were quaint and interesting on foot, especially Tallinn with its busy squares, small passageways, and absence of autos. Tallinn is capitalism at work in a very nice way. There are stalls of linen and woolen goods overseen by women knitting more goods to sell, costumed vendors selling munchies, and widespread lasses in red t-shirts hawking Tallinn books with free postcards added, you choose! Make a stop at one of the many amber shops. Dealing with the fresh faced, sometimes bashful Estonian misses in their identical garb was something of a treat. Buy a little something. After all, your duty-free exemption upon return is now $800 per person.

 

 

Alas, Copenhagen was a disappointment for us. It was cold and rainy which is often a deal breaker. The little mermaid was indeed little. Nyhaven was indeed a waterfront. Things that should have been open were closed and the Danes were unapologetic. “Come back tomorrow!” A difficult task when plans for tomorrow are already coalesced in an altogether different part of the Baltic. The royal horses were kind enough to allow us into the royal stables, but I generally prefer my nags circling the posts with the one I have entrusted with my savings gamely trying to stave off last place. The pedestrian shopping street was uninspiring even to my shopaholic wife who once brought us to the brink of marital dissolution by forcing me to spend an entire day visiting every black pearl shop on Moorea. Since I had already presented her with an aubergine bauble of her choosing in Papeete, I -- but that’s a different tale.

 

 

Nothing was rotten in Denmark, but it lacked a certain je ne sais quoi. Please, if you are of Danish descent or if Copenhagen is your favorite city or Tivoli is your favorite place of idleness, do not vilify me. Attribute it to rain and origami. I have no doubt you and others will find the City’s charms on a different day.

 

 

And for those of you wondering why I have not mentioned Helsinki, it is because it was not on our itinerary. Our trip was planned instead with a stop at Warnemunde in northern Germany. Those that wished to enjoy six hours on a bus were able to visit Berlin. Ich nicht bin ein Berliner busrider, but we did enjoy the sunny day in Wmde and nearly picturesque Rostock. As with the wind and fate, one must go where one’s ship goes (unless you miss the bus back).

 

 

--- Could this be the end??

[poss]

Well, I hope it's not the end. In any case, bravo! (Are you a scrivner in real life?)

[abc1]

Thank you so much for your detail accounts of your trip. It helps us alot. We leave on the 19th of July for the 23rd sailing.

 

Any comments on the entertainment ( if there is time).

Thanks

[nyfeds]

Fantastic report, CMI! You've been so complete and entertainingly descriptive in your port and excursion experiences.

 

Please say it's not over and you've got more to share with us!!!

[gf]

Loved your report; you are quite the writer! Laughter is always an added bonus to any day!

 

Hope there's more; thank you!!

[Call me Ishmael]

Poss,

 

Hmm, yes Call Me Bartleby is apropos.

 

ABC,

 

Review Ch. 4 before tomorrow's pop quiz!

 

NYFeds and gf,

 

Was there something I overlooked ...?

 

Call me Ish-Mayle

[nyfeds]

You didn't overlook anything as far as I could tell. I just hate to see good reading and great humor come to an end!

[harbormaster]

Just wanted to say how much my husband and I enjoyed all 5 parts. We will be new cruisers on RSSC Voyager Nov.6 Med and B2B with the transatlantic. This really helped us "get to know the ship" and your humor made it all the more enjoyable. Thanks so much. We're getting excited.

Would love to hear any more you have to share.

[nyfeds]

CMI,

 

Was your cruise sold-out?

[Call me Ishmael]

NYf,

 

The cruise had slightly less than capacity on board: something like 670 vs. 700. If there were empty cabins, Reception didn't admit it when I first boarded; they indicated it was "virtually full" which strikes me as similar to virtually pregnant. Either you are or you aren't. I guess some of the cabins were occupied by singles.

 

CMI