Trip review - Celebrity Infinity Buenos Aires to Valparaiso January 5, 2014.

[herbanrenewal]

PRE-TRIP

Snow and ice were forecast for thursday and friday, with up to 12 inches expected in NYC. So we changed our flight to one leaving from DC to Miami on saturday morning. Around midnight i was awaken by a phone call telling me that our flight would have a 3 hour delay - enough to make us miss the connection to BA, so i spent several more hours getting switched to a flight that got us to Miami 40 minutes before our flight to BA...we made it!

Flight to BA was great - business class in a 777 is a wonderful experience, and got us settled into a relaxed vacation mood after the stress of trying to make it to South America.

 

Saturday january 5

We had booked a room near San Martin for the night, next morning left our bags there, and took the ColoniaExpress dot com ferry to Colonia, Uruguay. We had purchased the tickets online which saved us money.

This world heritage site is has historical buildings, and a series of small museums all museums cost a total of 5$ for both of us.

We greatly enjoyed the morning walking around town. Its such a difference from the hustle and bustle of a major city like BA...few cars, relaxed people, friendly atmosphere....but by early afternoon we were done exploring and spent several hours reading our ebooks waiting at the visitor center for time to board the ferry back to BA.

In retrospect, i think our day may have been better spent elsewhere, but again with a horrible heat wave in BA we may not have done too much more there. 100 degrees with 90% humidity is not best suited to walking around a city like BA

Returning around 8:15pm we took a taxi back to the hotel to get our bags then to the port to check in. We had a very different experience from everyone who showed up early or as scheduled to board- we heard from various people that it was a nightmare. We were the only pasengers there so it was a friendly easy checkin, though we were fingerprinted for the 4th time in 24 hours by immigration (airport, Argentina to Uruguay ferry, Uruguay to Argentona ferry, then boarding the Infinity.) I knew we would have to bring our luggage to the room ourselves with late check-in, but was a bit disappointed that the crew members told us to carry them up the long gangway steps. It wasn't easy getting to the top. When a woman said "do you need help?" at the TOP of the stairs after watching us struggle to get up.

Then we went over to security for our luggae to be scanned. There were about 6 crew members standing around. We were told to put our bags on the scanner. We did it, but I commented that the level of service was less than ideal if 6 young crew members were going to watch 2 older ladies lifting their bags themselves. After that they did lift the bags back down for us and we were on our way to the cabin, then a late dinner. Many people seemed to be dining late, it took over 30 minutes just to get a menu, and then the entire meal was well over 2 hours, and we were more than ready for some sleep.

 

Monday January 6

We were going to do a free walking tour but decided to do a self guided one instead. The downtown section of BA is easily navigated. After a shuttle ride into town we walked the pedestrian shopping street, Florida Street. The continuing heat wave made us limit our explorations, but we did see Evita's porch on the beautiful and famous Casa Rosada. The Argenitinian version of our White Housr, it is the executive mansion and office of the president. we did not opt to go into the museum. Next we saw the Metropolitan Cathedral, the mother church of the Archdiocese of BA. Its an 18th century neo-baroque building with 19th century neo-renaissance towers. The location has been occupied by a Catholic church since 1605, so lots of history.

We wanted to see the Teatro Colon, and enjoyed the exterior, and the ticket nave, but to see the interior cost as much as to see a show production. We decided to pass on the experience and the expense. By this time in early afternoon the heat was getting to us so after a quick stop in a wine store to get some Argentine malbec and a white.

We got a cab back to the ship, found out the time and place for the Elite Cocktail Hour, showered, and went to enjoy this event before dinner. We were able to carry our wine into the restaurant.

The food was excellent and the service at the early seating time is much better than the late seating was last night. We had 2 lovely couples to dine with, a young couple from Korea, and a couple from Canada. We very much enjoyed the evening. .

 

Tuesady January 7 Montevideo

This was our first Cruise Critic tour arranged with south excursions dot com. We met in the library 30 minutes before we were to meet the guide, and walked off the ship together. We had an excellent group of 10. Our guide seemed a bit new to the tour, and referred to notes frequently, but was so personable and friendly.

We toured the old city in the rain, stopping at monuments and the cathedral, and walkng around a bit...then we enjoyed the highlight of this tour, a trip to a local winery. It was a lovely winery, with a personable owner-vintner who explained everything from the history of the family winery (4 generations) to how to taste test wines, and to identify different characteristics of each wine.

I really enjoyed this experience, including the enpenadas we had to clear our pallet between wines. I felt kind of bad that no one bought any of the excellent wines, but all of us had either free cocktail hour or a drinks package, so wouldnt be drinking it on the cruise, and can't get it easily back home in our luggage after the cruise.

 

Wednesday January 8. Punta del Este

A had read this port reviewed as a "beach day" with not much worth seeing on tour, so I had planned to pick up a free map for a walking tour. It was a very pleasant surprise. A very beautiful beach town. I liked the fact that you could easily walk around the peninsula, and the commercial district was on the main road in the center. So exploring the beaches and enjoying the sights was beautiful, with no bars, shops, distractions.

The side where the tender docks is the calm beach, with lots of families enjoying the gentle surf. We rounded the point passing a marina with lots of nice yachts including a few from Delaware !?

On the other side of the penisula, the black rocks, millions of mussel shells, rougher waves were reminiscent of some of our Northern Atlantic beaches like in Maine. This is where the waves drew surfers. There are some nice sites along the walk including the lighthouse, the old and still active parish church, a sculpture of mermaids, a small shrine on the rocks, and the most famous one, which we missed, the hand rising from the sand.

Back on board the evening show was a hypnotist...not my favorite type of entertainment so we didnt stay til the end. Other than this we have enjoyed the entertainment, both the main show and the lounge music. A surprise to me is how good the band is. Especially the sax player in the band...terrific jazz quality sound. I wish she was playing in one of the lounges.

 

Thursday January 9 at sea

Today is both cruise critic party and captains club party. It was great to meet the faces we have been communicating with for months. It also gave us time to formalize arrangements for the rest of the port tours. The Celebrity host was the cruise director, Alejandro. He is really an animated guy, entertaining and runs things well. When i told him how much i loved the sax player's music and wished she was in one of the lounges he told me that usually she was, but the trumpet player/band leader was ill in BA and didnt make the cruise. The band has been practicing extra hours and werent able to play in the lounges. He promised to send my thanks to the talented musicians. I wrote up an Attention to Detail card for the sax player since I don't think band members get the recognition they deserve. Celebrity should know how good she is!

We spent the rest of the afternoon just swimming and relaxing. Its noticibly cooler today, so i think the Southern travels are starting to have impact on the weather.

First formal night tonight so we got ready for dinner.

Throughout the cruise we started early, then retired early..probably because we are each used to starting the day around 5am, and going to bed early, so this review will not have evening activities highlighted.

[Turtles06]

Welcome back, and thanks for the review so far, I'm looking forward to your future installments, as this is a cruise we hope to do one day. Glad you enjoyed yourself!

 

One note on the Casa Rosada in BA, which you described as the Argentinian version of the White House -- "the executive mansion and office of the president." In fact, the Casa Rosada is only the office of the president, she does not live there. This means that on the weekends, the Casa Rosada is opened for tours, and if one is lucky enough to be in BA on a Saturday or Sunday, it's a very interesting thing to do.

 

As for the Teatro Colón, I just wanted to note for folks who may be in BA in the future that my spouse and I found the interior to be absolutely spectacular.

 

Looking forward to more of your review!

[riclop]

Thanks for he review.

[drarill]

Great start!! thanks for taking the time to share your cruise with us!!:):)

[herbanrenewal]

Correction re:Punta del Este

The ship was not docked as this is a tender port.

Our experience was that there was no line for the tender when we left, fairly early. We did not need to use our priority tender tickets from Captains Club.

[herbanrenewal]

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Friday, January 10

Nievemar Tours Puerto Madryn

 

Our tour to Peninsula Valdes from Puerto Madryn, began with a long gravel road trip, which wasn't as bumpy as I had expected. Our great guide provided a lot of information as we traveled to the Interpretative Bureau of Isthmus Ameghinus at the entrance of Peninsula. Although the vender's website did not mention a visit to penguins, our first experience with Magellan penguins was our first stop. We were walking on walkways right beside the nests, so we got some great photos...if I ever figure out how I'll post some!

 

Then we continued to the elephant seals reserve of Caleta Valdes, the town of Puerto Piramide was our lunch stop, and then on to the sea lions`colony in Puerto Piramide. During the journey we saw the natural inhabitants of the Peninsula Valdes: ñandues (American ostriches), guanacos, maras (Patagonian hares), piches (armadillos), and various sea birds.

I loved this tour, but Danny felt all the animals were too far away to enjoy. I had a telephoto lens that made the animals closer for me...I would strongly recommend use of a decent pair of binoculars to really appreciate Peninsula Valdes.

 

Sunday January 12

Cape Horn

 

Cape Horn is located at the southern end of the Tierra del Fuego archipelago at north edge of the Drake Passage, the strait between South America and Antarctica.

 

Cape Horn is known as one of the most hazardous shipping routes in the world. The winds are hazardous - rounding Cape Horn requires ships to press well into the zone of fiercest winds. These winds are exacerbated at the Horn by the funneling effect of the Andes and Antarctica.

 

The Chilean Navy maintains a station on Hoorn Island, consisting of a residence, utility building, chapel, and lighthouse. A short distance from the main station is a memorial, including a large sculpture made by Chilean sculptor Jose Balcells featuring the silhouette of an albatross, in honor of the sailors who died while attempting to "round the Horn".

 

We were blessed with good weather and a smooth trip around the Horn (then we returned to the Magellan Strait to enjoy the Chilean Fjords). Don't confuse good weather with smooth transit - the winds are an experience in and of themselves, and it is amazing to note the difference once you round into the Pacific - this is the reason the Pacific Ocean was named Pacific...the Portugese explorers noted the abrupt tranquility of the winds here.

 

Monday January 13

Uhsuaia

 

We decided to use On Board Credit that we received when booking for the Beagel Channel and National Park tour with Celebrity.

 

We cruised the Beagle Channel to Sea Wolves Island Nature Reserve onboard a catamaran on the open deck space, passing the Isla de los Pajaros (Bird Island) where many species of birds congregate, including a large colony of cormorants. Isla de los Lobos (Sea Wolves Island) and the Faro del Fin del Mundo "Les Eclaireures" - the Light House at the End of the World were highlights. Arriving at Lapataia Bay, we boarded the bus and continued through Tierra del Fuego National Park.

 

It was a great excursion, though I did find that the 40+ passengers on the bus to the Tierra del Fuego National Park, along with the multiple other excursion buses all arriving to the same points at the same time, did affect the crowdedness of the sites. However, nothing could detract from the natural beauty of the place. The main stops were sites around the lake, especially the Southernmost Post Office in South America. It is cute and a functioning post office, but could also be called the Southernmost Tourist trap. However, I collect postcards and stamps for my nephew, so this was a must for me.

 

 

At the pier you could easily have walked to where each of these tours could be independently booked. I did not price them since we were using OBC, but I think it would be easy enough to do independently if you wanted to. I did see passengers from the ship go there, and also saw them at the National Park.

 

Tuesday January 14

Punta Arenas, Chile

Punta Arenas saw our South Excursions group of ten board a minibus and head along the Strait of Magellan to Otway Sound. Finally we arrived at the penguinera, the nesting ground, of the Magellan penguin. Thousands of birds, which are disrespectfully called “jackas* penguins” due to the donkey-like braying sounds they make, come ashore in the spring to breed.

 

Having seen penguins and been able to walk beside their nests during the Puerto Madryn tour I didn’t have high expectations. Others have talked about the viewing areas that keep you from the nests. I, however, found this an enchanting encounter, watching them march along their trails to the water, and you couldn’t help but laugh at them enjoying the water!

Before returning to the ship we had a stop at the city main square. Danny found a place to exchange for some Chilean pesos. And of course we enjoyed the photo ops at the market.

 

A visit to Punta Arenas wouldn't be complete without stopping at the Memorial to Ferdinand Magellan and rubbing the foot on the native South American indian statue, which ensures that you will visit again (sort of a local South American version of Trevi Fountain).

[herbanrenewal]

Wednesday January 15 and Thursday January 16

The Strait of Magellan and Chilean Fjords

 

The Chilean fjords and glaciers are an amazing place to view towering, blue crystal glaciers as well as magnificent waterfalls. This reminded me of Alaska's Inside Passage, but less calfing of ice, and more waterfalls. Binoculars or telephoto lens helps alot here, so it seemed to me we were not getting nearly as close as in Alaska. All shades of blues, greens and silvery ice are showcased within these amazing glacial fjords.

 

We viewed the glory of the scenery from the comfort of the Solarium, cracking the windows open when we wanted to take a photo. (We were in an oceanview cabin)

 

Friday January 17

Puerto Montt and PetrohueFalls

We were able to get one of the first tenders, even before most of the group tours. Our experienced guide started the day by suggesting we reverse the order of the scheduled events so that we would be the first to get to the falls. This strategy was great since the majority of the cruise tours didn't arrive until we were leaving. It also took us to the furthest point first, which made it easier to enjoy the day without worrying about getting back to the ship on time.

 

Along the way there were delays for road reconstruction. Our guide told us this part of Chile has two seasons - winter and road repair.

 

A lakeside drive leads to the impressive Petrohue River Falls, a gleaming succession of azure blue rapids against a back drop of mountains and the emerald green Todos los Santos Lake. We enjoyed breathtaking views of the Osorno Volcano in middle of the exuberant rain forest followed by a short walk around the Laguna Verde.

Puerto Varas, aka "City of Roses," is known for its alpine and traditional German-style architecture. We had free time to explore this attractive lakeside town as well as enjoying lunch in one of the restaurants. There was a vibrant market with native crafts, foods, and music and dancing.

 

Returning to Puerto Montt, we had a brief stop at an overview, looking down at the fishing wharfs and seafood markets.

[yayvacation!]

Thanks for the trip review!!

[herbanrenewal]

Final day Valparaiso

 

 

This is the last of four tours with South Excursions

My overall impression of each tour is very positive. some guides seemed more experienced than others. Some stuck to the published itinerary while others did not. I personally was very pleased with service, comfort of vans, friendliness of guides, language skills of guides. Especially considering our tours covered at least as much as ship excursions and usually for about half the price, and our group was a compact 10 people, I think value for $ was excellent.

 

The tour started in Valparaiso from the port passing the National Congress building and the commercial district, traveling through the hills that reminded me of San Francisco. We took the funicular then walked around the area that is covered in artistic wall art (graffiti). While this part of the tour was minimally mentioned in the South Excursions information we spent most of the morning exploring Valparaiso. The guide was very informative about what we were seeing, but could have had a bit more awareness of time control.

 

We then went to lunch in the beach resort city of Vina del Mar after a brief stop at the “Flower Clock”. We didn’t spend much time in Vina del Mar since we were in Valparaiso all morning.

 

Heading towards Santiago, we travelled through the picturesque Chilean countryside, the famous wine-producing valleys of Casablanca and Curacavi. We stopped for a wine-tasting at a beautiful winery sitting at the top of a hill. Both the scenery and the wine were great! This was a definite highlight for me.

 

We didn’t have much time left for Santiago, but as we drove down the main road in Valparaiso the guide continued to tell us what we were passing. We were the first passengers to get off at our designated hotel, at exactly the time we were supposed to, which was good since we were not actually staying at that hotel but meeting Danny’s cousin there.

 

The good news about the variance from the tour description is that Valparaiso was covered very well. The not so good – we missed most of Santiago. This worked out great for us since we were staying in Chile for another week, but I’m not sure how the others felt about this.