Ocean princess venice to rome

[Bimmer09]

I took a peek into the garden to break up the intensity of staring at all the beauty around and above me.

 

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One of the drab rooms we were forced to walk through

 

 

 

Suddenly there was a loud scuffle downstairs as the doormen tried to bar entry to people who didn't have reservations for the gallery.

 

[Bimmer09]

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And the painter...

 

 

The great sculptor Bernini

 

 

 

By

 

[homeinboca]

Norris, loving your pictures of the Borghese. I don't have any, as I was forced to check my bag and camera before going in. I wonder if they have changed their policy or perhaps when it's quieter, it's allowed.

[Bimmer09]

Norris, loving your pictures of the Borghese. I don't have any, as I was forced to check my bag and camera before going in. I wonder if they have changed their policy or perhaps when it's quieter, it's allowed.

 

I was surprised as I was taking my camera from around my neck to put it in the case and the clerk at the coat check told me I could keep it with me as long as I didn't use flash.

 

Norris

[SpinnerCOyyy]

Here is a map of the gallery that I grabbed as I was walking out. Better late than never!

 

BorgheseMap.pdf

 

Bet you didn't see this at the gallery!

 

But I'll bet you saw this....

[SpinnerCOyyy]

I was surprised as I was taking my camera from around my neck to put it in the case and the clerk at the coat check told me I could keep it with me as long as I didn't use flash.

 

Norris

 

I believe I would have pitched a fit if they didn't allow cameras in Borghese. That was THE place I went to Rome for.

 

They didn't allow cameras at all on our crypts and catacombs tour. The tour included the crypts of St. Sebastian, no photos....the Basilica of San Clemente with it's 12th century church built on a 4th century church built upon a 1st century secret sect..... no photos. And finally the visit to the Capuchin bone rooms....no pictures. AARRRRGGGGG!!!!

[LewiLewi]

Hi Norris,

My husband and I have very much enjoyed your photo blog. We will be on the OP for 52 days beginning in March. My husband thought that you might enjoy some of his world photos taken over the past 25 years and arranged into galleries according to what part of the world we have visited. His web address is http://www.pbase.com/lewis1

Let us know if you enjoy the photos.

Marilyn

[Bimmer09]

Hi Norris,

My husband and I have very much enjoyed your photo blog. We will be on the OP for 52 days beginning in March. My husband thought that you might enjoy some of his world photos taken over the past 25 years and arranged into galleries according to what part of the world we have visited. His web address is http://www.pbase.com/lewis1

Let us know if you enjoy the photos.

Marilyn

 

Thanks Marilyn-I have visited and bookmarked it so I can find my way back again for more.

 

I started with the photos from Turkey- must be thinking of Thanksgiving dinner already!

 

Norris

[Bimmer09]

I believe I would have pitched a fit if they didn't allow cameras in Borghese. That was THE place I went to Rome for.

 

They didn't allow cameras at all on our crypts and catacombs tour. The tour included the crypts of St. Sebastian, no photos....the Basilica of San Clemente with it's 12th century church built on a 4th century church built upon a 1st century secret sect..... no photos. And finally the visit to the Capuchin bone rooms....no pictures. AARRRRGGGGG!!!!

 

Very disappointing Lori. I can understand the no-flash rule but wonder at the no photos blanket rule.

 

The Sistine Chapel I can see why no photos- no one would leave to make way until they had every ceiling panel on "film" and people would be bumping into each other or pushing each other aside to get a better shot. There would be people tripping over outstretched tripod legs. Oh, the humanity!

 

Norris

[Bimmer09]

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The above painted by

 

 

 

Painted by

 

[Bimmer09]

I didn't photograph everything I saw and of course it is too late for me to correct that. Some pieces had people gathered in front of them and I had to keep moving.

 

Like everything else in Rome I am left thinking we will have to go back and see them again when we have more than 2 days to spend. I am grateful and happy that we saw as much as we did. Great art galleries take up a lot of your time and concentration unless you go through them on a skateboard (there were no signs saying you couldn't).

 

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Our group was leaving now as time was up ( I thought we had been there an hour, Carol tells me it was two)

 

When we got outside we sat on a bench in the gardens for a while

 

 

There's a taxi stand just outside the gate and a cab was waiting so we took it back to the Piazza della Rotunda.

 

Once there, we thought it's "now or never" and decided to visit the Pantheon....

[Bimmer09]

It was always part of our plan to visit the Pantheon-good heavens it was right there on our doorstep and it had a steady stream of visitors all day long so it must be worth seeing.

 

Built around 19BC by Marcus Agrippa it burned down in both 80 and 110 A.D and the current building was commissioned by Hadrian and finished around 126 A.D. It's apparently Rome's best preserved building from antiquity and has been in continual use.

 

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There's no admission charge so you just walk on in.

 



 

 

[SpinnerCOyyy]

Very disappointing Lori. I can understand the no-flash rule but wonder at the no photos blanket rule.

 

The Sistine Chapel I can see why no photos- no one would leave to make way until they had every ceiling panel on "film" and people would be bumping into each other or pushing each other aside to get a better shot. There would be people tripping over outstretched tripod legs. Oh, the humanity!

 

Norris

 

The said they were trying to protect the sanctity of the "holy" sites. I understand about not being able to get a shot of everything you see. There is SO much to see, sometimes you just have to be in the moment. But thank goodness for the internet.

 

 

Surreal afternoon touring these bone rooms. Nothing could have prepared me for the site of a chandelier hanging one foot above my head, made of monk's finger bones. And then seeing this nifty clock. That was just a bonus.

[SpinnerCOyyy]

I've loved most of the food pic's you've posted. But like someone else mentioned, I draw the line at the artichoke. I have a personal policy not to eat anything with the word "choke" in it. It's a safety issue for me!

¯\_(ツ)_/¯

[HRPro]

Norris, really enjoyed your pictures of the Borghese Gallery--one of the places we have not visited in Rome and looks like a wonderful escuse to go back. We love Rome, and it's one of those places you can go back to many times and always find something new to see. Thanks for a wonderful review!

[dramirez]

Norris,

 

Thank you so much for posting the pictures of the Parthenon. In 1966 my family was in Rome for Christmas. We took a private tour of the city and my 3 1/2 year old brother got to play the organ at the Parthenon. Fortunately, it wasn't very crowded as he (my brother) was not a child prodigy! Thanks for bringing back memories.

 

Diane

[Bimmer09]

Norris, really enjoyed your pictures of the Borghese Gallery--one of the places we have not visited in Rome and looks like a wonderful escuse to go back. We love Rome, and it's one of those places you can go back to many times and always find something new to see. Thanks for a wonderful review!

 

Thank you- next time I'll photograph the things I missed this time and we'll set aside some time to walk in the gardens. It won't be part of a cruise though so it will have to go on my blog pages, which I have neglected now for 7 weeks.

I have been writing this for 5 weeks and am a couple of days away from finishing.

 

Carol didn't take photos in the Borghese.

 

Rome has too many riches to see in a paltry two days.

 

Norris

[Bimmer09]

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You don't need to set aside a lot of time for the Pantheon-it's one giant room and the ceiling is the most striking thing there. A crowd of people constantly on the move inside means there's a limit to how many detailed photos you can get. Go first thing in the morning and you could spend more time there.

 

We hadn't eaten since 9 a.m and it was now 5 pm or so. I suggested we stay local and get a snack and remembered the great looking pizza we saw when we dined out the night before.

 

We went pizza hunting in the neighborhood...

[Bimmer09]

Living in Northern Ireland as a teen pizza was unknown to me.

 

I first tried it when I was 20 and living in Nuremberg Germany for a few months.

I was in a band and got back to town late each night and the late night place to eat was an Italian restaurant called the Alpino. Wood-fired brick oven pizza made by Italians and it was dee-lishus! I also discovered spaghetti ala carbonara there.

 

Fast forward almost 20 years and I am in New Jersey and Sbarro's pizza was suggested for lunch. What the hell is this? was my reaction. Orange oil ran up my sleeve when I lifted it to bite while at the same time half of it broke off and fell splat on the paper plate. Chewy cheese that was like being caught in a gooey spider web. I steered clear of pizza for years.

 

Ten years later and I am in Chicago and people at work take me out for beer and a deep-dish pizza at Pizzeria Uno. What on earth is this? Yes it does qualify as a pie but it is overloaded with ingredients which combine to make a big stodgy mess.

 

The best pizza I had eaten in 40 years was on a Princess ship, up by the pool.

Thin crispy crust, minimum of ingredients, no oil slick.

 

So we are at a pizza restaurant 30 yards from our hotel in one of those tight little alleys inspired by a sighting of very thin crust pizza the night before at an adjacent table. They used knife and fork to slice it and eat it.

 

Not surprisingly we had the kind of pizza I remembered from Nuremberg and the only one to surpass the Princess offering which I still consider very worthy.

 

I ate a whole "pie" and relished every bite. A nice Nastro Azzuro beer helped it go down and the location helped make it a memorable meal.

 

The location

 

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The pepperoni pizza

 

 

Somehow Italian food is speaking to me after all these years of disappointing, canned-sauce slathered heaping portions lika mamma usta-a- make. The reason is probably that it is being made by Italians for the Italian palette which we are finding is right up our via. Even at home our mantra is "few ingredients, well prepared". The last thing that impresses me is the phrase "the portions are enormous and we had to ask for a doggie-bag" That's usually a sign of quantity over quality.

 

We never had one meal in Italy that we didn't enjoy thoroughly from start to finish and the quality of the wines served (at about $20 a bottle) was excellent.

 

The pizza place had a handsome man standing out front trying to drum up some business-there are so many small inviting cafes to eat at in this neighborhood that I don't blame him as I am a firm believer in running your business and maximizing what you have, which in this case was a good pizza cook. He spoke to everyone who went by and was very charming and witty. People would stop to just ask him for directions and he was very helpful. Of course he could speak English.

 

Where were the surly Italian waiters I had read about in restaurant reviews on T.Advisor? We didn't come across one in Venice, Positano or Rome which were the three stops we ate in. We always started by speaking Italian to them and I really believe that helps to break the ice. Neither of us are "ugly Americans" when it come to traveling.

 

I could sit at these little cafes for hours. The only people likely to "bother" you are the African guys who peddle handbags and a quick "no grazie" sends them to the next table. I admire their entrepreneurship. Same goes for the young Indian guys who are selling the current "hot" street items- the selfie stick that you can attach your smart phone to in order to take selfie photos and the guys who sell those neon light things that they launch high into the sky at night. We saw those in Venice and Rome and I think you have seen them on some of my night videos.

 

We weren't swindled out of anything. If anyone picked my pocket all they got was a kleenex or a boiled sweet. The money belt kept every Euro in my possession and I thank Rick Steves for hammering home the message.

 

Yes, Europe was expensive compared to what a dollar can buy here. Taxis though seemed about the same for the distance traveled in Rome. In Venice you need to get a Vaparetto pass for a day or two to save money, otherwise it is 7 E ($9) per trip.

 

I could sit at these cafes for hours but our hours were now few. We had to be up at 5.30 as Rome In Limo were picking us up for the ride to the airport at 7 a.m.

 

We had at most 6 hours left in Rome.

 

I told the handsome man their pizza was fantastic as we left and he was pleased.

[Deck Chair Queen]

In my defense re no photos from the Borghese: I do not believe any photograph and certainly not my point and shoot camera can capture a work of art. Otherwise why was I schlepping all that way to see the art in person? So you will never see me taking photographs in a museum even if it were allowed. The architecture, yes. In a museum I want silence and focus. I hate the buzzing audio guides and how they choose for you which pieces are "important." One thing I loved at the Borghese was when you enter each gallery there is a stack of laminated sheets with information about each art work and a numbered map showing their placement. Silent, informative, and you don't have to lean in front of somebody to read a label. Pick it up when you enter, return it when you leave the room. Germanic in its logic and simplicity. As for timing the times are two hours apart but they start shooing you out after an hour or so to clear the place out for the next group. An hour in a museum for me is just right as beyond that I no longer absorb anything. Carol the rigid

[Bimmer09]

I have only a few photos left of this 11 day adventure and one more video, a compendium of our last day in Rome.

 

Once I show you these I will attempt a "final impressions" of the whole thing including the Ocean Princess which is now up for sale by the geniuses at PCL.

Princess in the future will see bigger ships being built on the heels of the Royal and Regal (one more clone already on the shipyard's books) Bigger isn't always better. I cancelled a cruise on the Royal once I saw that the design was not for us and chose the Ocean over the Regal for the Med even though it cost an arm and a leg more (at today's exchange rate).

 

Rome. Well we are still there but with the time running out. We had done a lot of walking to Sant' Angelo and back and had the intensity of a visit to some sublime art in the Borghese, then the Pantheon. Then a nice pizza experience.

 

Once back at the hotel we knew a nap would be on the cards.

 

I did spend some time in Piazza della Rotunda, just soaking up the atmosphere and trying (successfully) to burn it into my memory. I listened to the Pink Floyd tribute band with my camcorder and there is a lengthy sequence on the video of that- I was just enjoying the song so much.

 

I had to visit the rooftop bar again as there was a sunset approaching.

 

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There are always Police cars parked in the square though never any reason for them to be there that we saw.

 

A view over the crazy jumbled rooftops

 

 

ALBERGO DEL SENATO

 

We have talked a lot about Rome since we came home 6 weeks ago. We have Househunters International shows on Rome waiting on our Tivo and also an Anthony Bourdain (great travel writer incidental to his passion for food and getting drunk) which we have yet to watch. We would I think have no hesitation in staying at the Albergo del Senato again. We went on our trip not knowing how our hotels would really be. We knew they would be pricey (Venice set a new high bar) but would they deliver on the experience? Both did and not only were the properties beautiful and elegant but it was the people that made them special and memorable. We stay in a pricey hotel in New York where they could learn from the Italian hoteliers we met. Gracious and friendly in Italy. Super efficient and with warm personalities. A smile and a laugh in Italy. They raised the bar in price but also in our expectations of what superior service is.

 

The rooftop bar was my icing on a wonderfully rich cake.

 

I would look around when each new couple came up there before sunset and hear in English or French or Italian those languages' version of "wow-this is beautiful"

 

That made me smile. We chose well. It is a bit noisy in the afternoon if you want to nap (and naps are essential when you have exhausted yourself seeing Rome )

There WILL be music but I have to say I heard most of the buskers and they were very good. On the video you will catch a moment from a girl playing guitar in the square who has a lovely voice singing an Edith Piaf classic. I wish I had heard more of her. There was a gifted accordion player too which I heard from the terrace and later when we were dining at Virginae. Warm summer nights (even if it was late summer) are surely made better and more romantic by the sound of live music wafting from somewhere down the street as you are eating out under the stars. I beats some kid banging on plastic paint buckets with drumsticks anyway.

 

As always if I have a drink and the freedom to smoke I could sit and while away the hours at this rooftop bar. The sun was sinking in the West (again!!)

 

 

At a time like this is when I take stock of how lucky I am. Here I am in Rome for the first time in my life and wondering-when will I see this again? I wondered the same when I was in Lucerne in 2009-one of the most beautiful places I have ever stayed. Five years have already passed since we were there. It's a subject for my blog, not here, as no cruising was involved. Lucerne and Salzburg- such eye candy not available on a cruise ship itinerary. Sigh.

 

We love cruise ship excursions, but then you have to get back on the ship after a few hours ( 8 at most) and sail away just as it's getting dark. I think a turnaround day in Civittavecchia with a day trip to Rome and back would be a horrible wrench.

 

I know I have beaten this drum before but overnights in a port are something I would really look forward to and maybe Azamara is calling as long as they keep those small ships. Cities (ports) really come alive at night in a warm climate and although the MDRs do a great job there is no magic to be had in the way you have in an outdoor dining experience in Rome, or Athens and Istanbul, neither of which I have yet to visit but I have a vivid imagination. People are more relaxed at night. The work is done, except for those in kitchens and waiting tables. The wine flows. Caution to the wind. You are relaxed and carefree and wish to enjoy yourself. A sound sleep will follow on the ship.

 

Now the sun was saying his last night Italian farewell to me.

 

[Solar Yellow]

I'm certain I will be suffering from Norris withdrawal very soon. I can't tell you how much I've enjoyed following along. You made a comment about visiting Istanbul and I can heartily recommend it after my first trip there last May. It is now in the top three of my favorite cities. I don't think I've heard you mention Florence but I have to believe you would fall in love with this city as well. It requires days to visit as well.

 

I agree you would enjoy Azamara since you liked OP so much. Have you considered Oceania? Their three smaller ships are also from the R ship family of eight and have recently been refurbished. Their larger ships (Marina and Riviera) are also pretty spectacular.

 

Thanks again for sharing your trip with us!

[Bimmer09]

I'm certain I will be suffering from Norris withdrawal very soon. I can't tell you how much I've enjoyed following along. You made a comment about visiting Istanbul and I can heartily recommend it after my first trip there last May. It is now in the top three of my favorite cities. I don't think I've heard you mention Florence but I have to believe you would fall in love with this city as well. It requires days to visit as well.

 

I agree you would enjoy Azamara since you liked OP so much. Have you considered Oceania? Their three smaller ships are also from the R ship family of eight and have recently been refurbished. Their larger ships (Marina and Riviera) are also pretty spectacular.

 

Thanks again for sharing your trip with us!

 

I get an e mail a day from Oceania and surf their CC board too. Great itineraries and beautifully appointed ships. They are a great option.

 

Who knows what the future holds-but it's unlikely to be ships larger than Princess Grand Class for us.

 

Have you sailed Oceania?

 

Norris, thanking you for the kind remarks.

[SpinnerCOyyy]

In my defense re no photos from the Borghese: I do not believe any photograph and certainly not my point and shoot camera can capture a work of art. Otherwise why was I schlepping all that way to see the art in person? So you will never see me taking photographs in a museum even if it were allowed. The architecture, yes. In a museum I want silence and focus. I hate the buzzing audio guides and how they choose for you which pieces are "important." One thing I loved at the Borghese was when you enter each gallery there is a stack of laminated sheets with information about each art work and a numbered map showing their placement. Silent, informative, and you don't have to lean in front of somebody to read a label. Pick it up when you enter, return it when you leave the room. Germanic in its logic and simplicity. As for timing the times are two hours apart but they start shooing you out after an hour or so to clear the place out for the next group. An hour in a museum for me is just right as beyond that I no longer absorb anything. Carol the rigid

 

I wouldn't be too hard on yourself. I had purchased a new camera for my husband to use on this trip. Half the time, I would dog him and dog him to take as many pictures as he could. The other half, I would be telling him that he was "missing it" by not living in the moment. Poor guy couldn't win for losing!

 

I could have stared at The Rape of Prospernia all day. That one section where Pluto has ahold of her thigh. I was speechless.

 

I totally agree with you about how much time is needed in a museum. I can easily be overstimulated and shut down. In Borghese, as I walked from room to room, I would focus on a particular piece and think about who created it, how it was done and try to make note of the little things. Then I would wander a little around the room and just take random shots of other stuff that I could look at later. Then I would go off and remind Steve to take a bunch of pictures but be in the moment! ٩(^‿^)۶

[silverbird]

Norris --

 

I have been enthralled, from the beginning to the latest, with the coverage of your and Carol's trip. You revived such wonderful memories. Even after three trips to Rome, I would return in a heartbeat to visit places still on my "tick list". At least you did not make any faux pas as did I. :<) Embarrassing on my part but waved off by the gracious Italians. That, I will always remember.

 

The name of the church in Piazza Navona is St. Agnes in Agony. The interior is breathtaking.

 

I am looking forward to your final thoughts on this trip and eagerly look forward to your next one. I wish you fair winds and calm seas.

 

A very grateful reader, SilverBird