Elegant Elbe.... the adventure begins

[franski]

Hi - Just a bit about the food in Prague.

 

We had hoped to get back into Kolkovna, but couldn't get in without a reservation. So - we ended up finding an Italian restaurant on our way back towards the Old Town Square. The sign in the window said it was the 1st Italian restaurant in Prague. It seemed to be family owned - and the people spoke Italian. I had pizza - and it was delicious.

 

One thing we did notice in restaurants in the Old Town area was that they charge a "cover" charge per person. When I questioned this, it was explained that it was to "cover" the cost of cutlery, condiments etc. You have no way of knowing which restaurants charge this - but we found this twice on our bills in Prague. Also - we stopped at a restaurant a bit off the beaten track on our way to the KGB museum. The price advertised for the goulash soup seemed in line with the "going rate". So, we really didn't pay much attention when the menu didn't have prices for all the dishes. My husband ordered fish & chips - and it came with bread, and something else (can't remember - some innocuous side dish). When the bill arrived - he was charged for all of the extras - when we didn't order them. An EXPENSIVE lunch. So - no tip here, I can tell you.

 

Also, many restaurants still have smoking sections. At the Kolkovna, it was downstairs - so you had to walk through the smoking section to get to the non-smoking one. In the Italian restaurant, the non-smoking section was at the front (where the pizza oven is) but it is much smaller than the smoking section. We asked to sit in the non-smoking area - but it was full. However, right after we ordered, one of the servers came to tell us a table had opened up, and moved us.

 

The Kandelabr (up by the hotel) did not charge a cover charge. And, the non-smoking section was separated quite well.

 

For those who enjoy their Starbucks, there is one right across from the Astronomical clock. I am not a fan, but know someone who collects the mugs - so stopped in to buy one.

 

We were looking forward to having Chimney cakes again. If you have not had them before - they are easy to find. Basically, they wrap dough around a pin (similar to the rolling pin) and cook it. They then roll it in sugar. They sell them by the piece - and they are available all over the Old Town.

 

The first time we had a Chimney cake was in Prague - and it was delicious. We found them in Budapest as well - and also found them along the way when we did the Eastern European cruise. Unfortunately, the ones in Prague didn't live up the memory we had of them. In Budapest, you have lots of options for coatings.... sugar, cinnamon, nuts or a combination. You also got the entire cake - usually in a cellophane bag. In Prague, we could only find sugar - and you only got a piece - in a small paper bag. Now, the dough was different -- more like a doughnut - where the ones in Budapest were more pastry like. But - if you haven't ever had one - they are worth a try.

 

We did find a restaurant we went to the last time we were there - hidden in a side street. It was old (had been there for over a hundred years) - and looked much like an old bar in a tired part of town. We debated on going in - but there was NO ONE inside - and so figured we would pass this time. We went with 6 other people last time, so the camaraderie added to the memories.

 

Fran

Edited June 14, 2015 by franski

[franski]

At least twice along the way we were docked beside on the new ships that Viking has on the Elbe. The first time, we were docked fairly early in the evening - so we went over to have a look.

 

When we went across, we identified ourselves as coming from the Fontane - and said we just wanted to see what the new boat looked like. The staff were very gracious - and said we could sit and have a drink in the lounge if we wanted!!

 

One of the first things I noticed was the staircase to the lower level. It is on par with the stairs on the long ships - in that it had a more gentle rise. The stairs on the Fontane were quite steep - although they did have chair lifts - even up to the Sun Deck.

 

The front lounge is quite a bit smaller on the newer boats - at least it seemed that way to me. The boat was not full - but I expect the lounge would be packed if it was. Also, it did not have a dance floor - not that the one on the Fontane was used a lot.... It looked more like the long ships with the front similar to the Aquavit Terrace. Of course, the cabins are larger on the newer boats - and the space has to come from somewhere.

 

But - for those of you travelling on the newer boats - they are lovely... I am sure you will have a great trip!!

 

Fran

[franski]

Fran,

How did you like the Corinthia? We stayed there last year after our Bucharest to Budapest cruise, during our 3 day stay in Prague. Although we didn't do Viking's postcruise stay, they nicely allowed us to use the Viking shuttle unless it was full (which only happened once).

 

Becki

 

Becky -

 

We really liked the Corinthia. I wasn't impressed when I discovered how far out we were, but the shuttle made like easy.

 

Even without the shuttle, I think that travel would have been easy to the Old Town Square. The hotel is right across from the metro station - and you can buy passes for 24 hrs of travel. We had intended to do that - until we found out about the shuttle.

 

And - the Kandlabr restaurant was GREAT - and easy to get to.

 

Fran

Edited June 14, 2015 by franski

[franski]

Just a few final thoughts.

 

This was a great trip. We loved the Fontane. I had prepared DH for "high end camping" - and swore I would never travel the rivers unless we could get hotel style beds - but this was so much more than we expected.

 

Yes, the cabin was small. I am sure it was quite a shock for people who hadn't done their homework - or were expecting the luxurious cabins presented in the glossy Viking brochures - but they were well laid out. The closet had lots of hangers. There were 2 rods to hang clothes - as well as a number of shelves to put clothes on. There is a night table between the beds that also has 2 shelves - and a desk just inside the door that holds the charger for the VoxBoxes.

 

The bathroom had been refurbished. There was LOTS of storage in the bathroom - even an upper cabinet with a door. The shower was in the corner with a shower curtain (instead of a door) - and we found it quite generously sized. There is a clothes line in the washroom. There is a step up into the bathroom - and fully expected to stub my toes at least once - but managed to get in and out without any damage to my toes....:D

 

We had fixed windows - and they were half height. We love being at the water line. There were room darkening roller blinds - as well as curtains.

 

Being on the lower level, we had to go up to the main deck, and then back down to the dining room. Stair cases were steep - but we got used to them quickly. Our sailing wasn't full (I think they said 84 on board) so there were empty seats in the dining room.

 

The wait staff were very attentive. They take orders with i-phones, and no personal request is ever too much. They always seemed glad to see you - and welcomed you back for every meal. The food was well prepared - and the helpings were more than adequate.

 

There were fresh cookies in the lounge each day by the coffee machine - and lots of fresh fruit around. You never had to go hungry.... Bottled water in your cabin was replenished as used.

 

As mentioned before, Daniel - our CD was amazing. Extremely organized - and hard working. There were a number of people on the cruise that had mobility issues, and making arrangements for them never seemed to be a chore.

 

The Captain was very visible - often waiting by the entrance to welcome us back. And - Artur - the hotel manager - was the best we have encountered on any of our cruises to date. He was visible - and took time to interact with all the guests. He was in the dining room during meals - and would help out (not just direct the staff). We didn't use the bar that much - but the bar staff was also welcoming.

 

Perhaps it was the smaller boat - and smaller number of passengers - but this really was one of the best cruises we have taken. Even the challenges of low water (and therefore busing to Dechin instead of boarding at Melnick) didn't seem to phase the staff.

 

If I could change anything, it would have been the beds. I didn't find them all that comfortable - although I slept fairly well. The single vs double wasn't really an issue for us. It was just the mattress - but, that is personal preference.

 

If I think of anything else, I will post further. Or - if anyone has any questions - I will do my best to answer.

 

Fran

[margieh]

Fran

 

We are taking this cruise the end of July and would love to tour the VW Factory in Dresden. We contacted them and asked for a 3:00 tour, but that tour wasn't available and they offered us a noon tour. Do you remember what time you finished your morning tour with your program director? Do you think it is feasible that we can get to the VW factory by noon?

 

Thanks for your great reviews of the cruise! I enjoyed reading about all of the different ports we will be visiting!

 

Margie

[franski]

Fran

 

We are taking this cruise the end of July and would love to tour the VW Factory in Dresden. We contacted them and asked for a 3:00 tour, but that tour wasn't available and they offered us a noon tour. Do you remember what time you finished your morning tour with your program director? Do you think it is feasible that we can get to the VW factory by noon?

 

Thanks for your great reviews of the cruise! I enjoyed reading about all of the different ports we will be visiting!

 

Margie

 

Hi Margie -

 

It might be tight to get there by noon.... the morning tour finishes up around that time.

 

However, there was an optional tour to the VW factory organized by the CD. It was an extra 2 euros over what we paid - but it is "protected" time at the end of the day.

 

You don't pay until you arrive - so you could always book the noon tour, and then discuss your options with the CD after you board.

 

Fran

[hiccups]

Fran, I'd just like to say how much I appreciate your objective reviews! You have probably sailed on more of the lines than any other poster and I find your comments to be even-handed and a great source of information. Given your recent experience with Viking, it would have been easy for that to have colored your perception of your trip. So glad you had a good time!

[margieh]

Hi Margie -

 

It might be tight to get there by noon.... the morning tour finishes up around that time.

 

However, there was an optional tour to the VW factory organized by the CD. It was an extra 2 euros over what we paid - but it is "protected" time at the end of the day.

 

You don't pay until you arrive - so you could always book the noon tour, and then discuss your options with the CD after you board.

 

Fran

 

Fran

 

Thanks for for your prompt response to my question! Now for a couple more questions-- Did you receive information about the optional tour to the VW factory in your final documents or when you got on board? Do you remember the time of the tour?

 

Margie

[HDS]

Margieh,

I hoped Fran would pick up your last enquiry as her experience is more recent than ours. We "non-cruised" in July 2014, bussed direct from Prague to Viking Fontane, moored at Dresden (4 nights), then bussed to Viking Schuman moored outside Wittenburg (3 nights).

Information on Dresden was given on day 4 (days 2 & 3 information was all about the regions we weren't cruising through). VW factory wasn't promoted as a Viking excursion, it was "see the concierge, to arrange a place on a tour". We did, immediately, and she said "tours are fully booked".

Information for Berlin was given the day before we arrived and again, "tours are fully booked". There's a moral in there somewhere.

My husband joined a tour of the Skoda factory near Prague and rated it as the highlight of the trip. It was a real tour of the factory floor and production line, talking to workers through an interpreter. Unlike the tour of the Meissen factory, which is not a factory tour but a video, a demonstration of pot throwing, glazing and painting followed by a long time in the factory shop.

[margieh]

Thanks for answering my questions. It sounds like it might be difficult to get a ticket for the ship's tour, so I think I will keep my 12:00 reservation for the tour until I have a ship's ticket in my hand--then I will cancel the reservation.

[franski]

Thanks for answering my questions. It sounds like it might be difficult to get a ticket for the ship's tour, so I think I will keep my 12:00 reservation for the tour until I have a ship's ticket in my hand--then I will cancel the reservation.

 

Hi Margie -

 

Sorry for the delay.

 

We found out about the VW tour option when we checked in on the first day in Prague. We only found out because we were chatting with the CD about things we had pre-booked. He mentioned it to the larger group during the port talk the night before we docked in Dresden.

 

The tour through the ship was at either 3:15 or 3:30. It is usually after the production line stops. Our tour was booked at 3:00 - which would normally be a time that the line was running, but it was a holiday that day so the line was stopped. People had to make their own way to the factory - which is walkable (if you are so inclined) or you can take a taxi.

 

I am not sure if you pay on the boat - or pay at the factory for the ships tour as we kept our own booking (it was 2 euros cheaper....)

 

BTW, there are lockers in the lobby for coats etc (we carried an umbrella as it was threatening to rain...). You need a euro coin to use one, but you get the coin back when you open the door to get your things out.

 

Fran

[franski]

Fran, I'd just like to say how much I appreciate your objective reviews! You have probably sailed on more of the lines than any other poster and I find your comments to be even-handed and a great source of information. Given your recent experience with Viking, it would have been easy for that to have colored your perception of your trip. So glad you had a good time!

 

Thank you!! I do try to be fair and objective - and hope that my reflections are of use to others.

 

We *did* have a good time... I refuse to let Viking (or any other company) ruin a vacation that I have looked forward to. We try hard to be the "make lemonade" type of travelers - sometimes our greatest adventures and memories fall out of unintended situations.

 

Fran

[inborn traveler]

Hds. Read your post about your "non cruise"! What happened to cause this - river too low, boat malfunction? I, too, try to "make lemonade" as Fran said, but I think mine would have been pretty sour if I spent the week docked and bussed everywhere. We sail July 17 from Prague. Anyone else on that trip?

Appreciate all the posts.

Lynda

[Hydrokitty]

Hi Fran: Thanks for a wonderfully detailed trip review! DH and I are thinking about this for our next Vantage trip on the Chopin and you have given us lots to think about! I especially enjoyed the warning on the life jackets! I guess they have lots of lawyers in Germany too :D...and thanks for giving a name to the "chimney cakes" that I so enjoyed in Prague....although I haven't found them elsewhere much to my disappointment. Did you try the roasted potato on a stick as well? The one that looks like Pringles on a stick....also .. I seem to recall the shop with the photo of Bill Clinton, where you bought your earrings....I bought a lovely vase there and they were very careful wrapping it in several layers of bubble wrap.

[HDS]

Fran/Franski, I have enjoyed your posts as always. Thank you.

Lynda/Inborn Traveller, low water last July left our boats high and relatively dry; we did float the second last day from Wittenburg to Magdeburg. Winter snowfalls were very light, early summer was very dry and very hot. I had been watching the river levels through the on-line sites so was disappointed but unsurprised and ready to make lemonade.

The local guides were excellent, Dresden is a stellar mooring, early morning I was the only person in the squares and gardens of the new-old city, an easy stroll from the dock. Food was delicious and focused on local products in season, the wait staff and cabin stewards were charming. We thoroughly enjoyed the company of our other passengers.

Viking attempted to provide the excursions advertised, with long bus trips to, from and between boats. We moored 4 nights in Dresden then packed and bused to the sister ship in Wittenburg.

Viking couldn't cruise us through the most attractive part of the river which we saw from above on the Bastei excursion. Ironically our walking tour of Torgau, on the bus trip between boats in Dresden and Wittenburg, had to be cancelled because of a violent thunderstorm with very little rain. Lemonade all round!

The Elbe flow appears to be controlled by Czech water authorities; there are no locks on the German side of the river to regulate the flow. Upstream from the border lock (on the Czech side) the river was a banker.

I hope you have good water levels and all the joys of river cruising.

Edited June 19, 2015 by HDS