Review of MSC Opera Cruise from Havana

[Donsyb]

We have just returned from an MSC cruise from Havana. Information available online was pretty limited so I’m posting this to help anyone who’s interested!

 

We arrived in Havana a few days early, and stayed at a Casa Particular (like a B&B) – Casa Vladimir in Habana Vieja. Yudy, the owner, doesn’t speak English, but with the help of a phrasebook we got by It cost 40 CUCs per night per room plus 5 CUCs per person per day for breakfast. The breakfast was excellent – fresh fruit, nice bread, eggs cooked to order, really good coffee. The room was small and basic, but had an en suite with modern toilet and shower (and the odd visit from a small lizard and a cockroach ). There was also a living room which was available to guests with a large flat screen tv, and a small terrace. It was interesting to see where and how people live – granted this family would be more affluent than the average due to the extra income from letting rooms. The appearance of the building and the street outside was dilapidated but inside was fine. We preferred this to the hotel we stayed in on our last night which cost much more.

 

We loved Havana. Reading some reviews, I think some people are put off by the fact there are some obviously neglected buildings and you will get lots of people offering you taxis, cheap cigars etc (these people will usually call after you with “Hey my friend” – we didn’t know we had so many friends in Havana!), but saying no thanks and walking away worked. The only trouble we had with someone seriously trying to scam us was the taxi back to the airport at the end. The hotel found us a taxi – a beaten up old Lada, not an official government taxi with a meter. He agreed 25 CUCs up front, then drove like a maniac and nearly killed us (he hit a pothole driving too fast, and skidded all over the wet road into the paths of oncoming trucks!). At the airport he kicked off because we didn’t pay him a tip – I’m not going to tip someone who nearly killed me We had used several non -metered taxis throughout the stay and this was the only one we had a problem with.

 

We found the food excellent – we ate at mostly paladars – Dona Eutimia, Los Mercaderes, El Chanchellero and Mama Ines. But also had lunch at a couple of state owned places that were also very good – one on the malecon I can’t remember the name of and Hanoi in Habana Vieja. Anyone who eats only on the ship is missing out on some very good food in my opinion - it was better than the food on the ship.

 

We also made it our mission to try mojitos in as many places as possible (someone’s got to do it ) – my favourite was actually in the bar at the Havana Club museum. The cheapest were in state run bars/ restaurants – they all seem to add bitters to theirs.

 

We took a tour in an old 49 Chevy – go to the end of Parque Central by the Capitolio and they are all lined up there for you to choose one you like.

We also toured the Partagas Cigar factory – get tickets from Hotel Saratoga. The Romeo y julieta shop is also round the corner from the factory. This was interesting to learn about how cigars are made and seem them in action. The other tour we found interesting is the free tour of the Hotel Nacional at 10am and 3pm every day in the lobby. We had Estelle, a fabulous 74 year lady who can talk about Cuba pre and post revolution - I think everyone fell in love with her!

 

Our last night in Havana we went to Tradicionales de los 50s, with Buena Vista Social Club style music and some of the well known old performers. This cost 30 CUCs for show and 3 drinks, or 50 with dinner. The location is a great old building, although not ideal for a show as many seats struggle to see the performers.

 

As for the cruise itself, I would rate it 3 stars. The cabin was fine, could have been cleaned a bit more thoroughly. Food was the biggest let down – often not hot enough either in the MDR or buffet. The best was pasta if you could get it fresh and hot – cooked perfectly and with really good sauces. We chose this cruiseline and ship purely for the itinerary (there isn’t a huge choice if you want to include Cuba) and from that aspect we were happy – although could have done with longer in Grand Cayman.

 

We didn’t do any ships excursions, as usual these were all way over priced. In Jamaica we used Courtney Taylor Tours to do a private tour of the Bob Marley museum followed by lunch at Scotchies. This was a really interesting day and I recommend using them. In Cozumel, we just grabbed a taxi driver to do an island tour, including San Gervasio ruins and some beach time. We paired up with another couple from the ship and paid $130 for 5 hours for 4 of us.

 

Rum is the same price all over Havana - it's no cheaper at the duty free. Cigars did vary a little in prices.

 

When you first arrive at the terminal, if you do not have an MSC transfer, you will approach from the street. You need to go through another set of the doors at the rear to drop off your luggage, and then go upstairs and check in. Only took us 15 minutes to get onboard, and that was before the official 7pm check in. We never experienced long waits to get on or off the ship.

 

There were two gala nights, the first sea night and the Grand Cayman night, I would say about 90% dressed formally for the first one, maybe 75% for the second.

 

Visas to get back into Cuba will be delivered to your cabin and 15 euros per person charged to your account (all on board billing is in euros). When you arrive back in port, there is a price list for official taxis for various locations, including the airport and Varadero etc, so no need to book in advance.

 

I would only sail MSC again if they were the only cruiseline offering that itinerary as in this case. It's not that they were really bad - just that there is so much better which I am willing to pay for. If you treat it as a 3 star hotel (think Holiday Inn) it's fine.

[tring]

That was a good read Donsyb - thank you. Estelle is the lady who did our tour of the Hotel Nacional, she was an academic at Havana University. She said she was the professer of Che Geuvara and had met him and had been to his flat.

 

You mentioned that there was a list of taxi prices at the port on disembarkation. Do you have any recollection what the price was for Hotels in Varadero, (that is further than Varadero airport), and did the taxis, or some of them, look reasonably road worthy?

Edited February 9, 2016 by tring

[Donsyb]

That was a good read Donsyb - thank you. Estelle is the lady who did our tour of the Hotel Nacional, she was an academic at Havana University. She said she was the professer of Che Geuvara and had met him and had been to his flat.

 

You mentioned that there was a list of taxi prices at the port on disembarkation. Do you have any recollection what the price was for Hotels in Varadero, (that is further than Varadero airport), and did the taxis, or some of them, look reasonably road worthy?

 

Most of the government taxis (yellow ones) were new Hyundais or Kias. The non government (but still legal) taxis have a taxi sign, but are different colours and those tended to be older and either classic cars or Ladas. Avoid the Ladas!

 

Varadero (not Varadero airport) was 88 cucs from the cruise terminal, the phone number is 7855 5555.

[tring]

Most of the government taxis (yellow ones) were new Hyundais or Kias. The non government (but still legal) taxis have a taxi sign, but are different colours and those tended to be older and either classic cars or Ladas. Avoid the Ladas!

 

Varadero (not Varadero airport) was 88 cucs from the cruise terminal, the phone number is 7855 5555.

 

Thank you very much for that very detailed reply.

 

You gave a telephone number. Does that mean it would be necessary to ring that number for a taxi to Varadero when we disembark the ship, or could we just arrange our own at the port, which would allow us to find one that looks in decent nick?

 

Sounds like you had a good time, your casa sounded great value.

 

Cheers,

 

Barbara

[Donsyb]

Thank you very much for that very detailed reply.

 

You gave a telephone number. Does that mean it would be necessary to ring that number for a taxi to Varadero when we disembark the ship, or could we just arrange our own at the port, which would allow us to find one that looks in decent nick?

 

Sounds like you had a good time, your casa sounded great value.

 

Cheers,

 

Barbara

 

I don't think you'd need to call, there was always loads of taxi drivers waiting. There was a board with prices and the phone number (i took a photo which is why I remember the detail!)

[tring]

I am extremely thankful for your help in this.

 

As it stands we are unsure if we will even be going to Cuba as my mother in law was blown over on Monday and had an operation on a broken hip today. My husband is her only child and we live more than 250 miles away. He is preparing to go down on Thursday and stay as long as possible. We are still hoping to go to Cuba on the 18th Feb if we can, but may have to return early if problems arise. Hence one less potential hassle is a really good help to us - we are really appreciative of your help - your good deed for the year.

 

Cheers,

 

Barbara

Edited February 9, 2016 by tring

[Donsyb]

I am extremely thankful for your help in this.

 

As it stands we are unsure if we will even be going to Cuba as my mother in law was blown over on Monday and had an operation on a broken hip today. My husband is her only child and we live more than 250 miles away. He is preparing to go down on Thursday and stay as long as possible. We are still hoping to go to Cuba on the 18th Feb if we can, but may have to return early if problems arise. Hence one less potential hassle is a really good help to us - we are really appreciative of your help - your good deed for the year.

 

Cheers,

 

Barbara

Hope the MIL recoers quickly - the weather has been ridiculous! If you don't get to Cuba this time, hopefully you'll get there soon!