Recap Review - Radiance Alaska Southbound Aug. 31, 2018

[twangster]

I love Alaska.  It's a great cruise destination and so different compared to cruising in the Bahamas or Caribbean.  

 

This will be my 3rd time cruising Alaska having done a Southbound cruise on Celebrity in 2017 and a Seattle round-trip on Explorer in June 2018. 

 

My last Southbound cruise on the Millennium had the same itinerary as this one on Radiance.

 

Itinerary:

 

Day 1 - Embark in Seward

Day 2 - Hubbard Glacier

Day 3 - Juneau

Day 4 - Skagway

Day 5 - Icy Strait Point

Day 6 - Ketchikan

Day 7 - Inside Passage

Day 8 - Debark in Vancouver 

 

That cruise on Millie last year was at the beginning of June so this cruise on Radiance will be the latest in the season that I've cruised in Alaska.  This will be the final run of the Alaska season for Radiance.  From here she makes her way back to Australia through Hawaii to spend our winter down under.

 

I've sailed Radiance class before so I had an idea what to expect from the ship but this will be my first time on Radiance.

 

I wasn't planning to do this cruise but a last minute rate appeared and I could make the airfare work so I couldn't pass the opportunity to return to Alaska. 

[twangster]

Day 0 - Flight to Anchorage, overnight stay in a hotel

 

I booked this cruise on a few weeks notice after verifying I could find decent airfare.  I could and it meant changing planes in Seattle.  My first flight was delayed due to mechanical issues so that meant missing my original connection in Seattle.  No worries, plenty of flights left to get there.  

 

Taking off out of Seattle I was able to see the coastal areas and many channels and islands in the area.  

 

 

A short time later I looked out my window and thought I could see the distinctive shape of a cruise ship.

 

 

I could see a viking crown and realized Explorer would be departing Victoria on the last night of her current sailing on her way back to Seattle.

 

 

I checked our flight path and sure enough we flew right over the water border between the U.S. and Canada just West of Victoria.

 

 

How cool is that?  Seeing my last Alaska cruise ship while heading to Alaska to board my next Alaska cruise ship!

 

I had chosen an earlier arrival into Anchorage and a window seat on the right side of the plane so I could enjoy the descent into Anchorage.  With the missed connection that wouldn't occur in the prime of the day but I was still able to see many glaciers in the final 25 minutes of the flight.

 

 

 

 

 

I lost count of the glaciers I saw despite the broken cloud cover.

 

There aren't many airports that feature a moose, but ANC airport does!

 

 

At this point it was 10pm (midnight at home) and after getting my checked bag I went to my hotel and straight to bed. 

 

I had an early start to the day in the morning.

[twangster]

Day 1 - IT'S CRUISE DAY!!!

 

But wait, first I have to get from Anchorage down to Seward where the ship is, nearly 130 miles.  Before booking my cruise I had verified the Royal transfer on the charter train was available.  It was $125 through Royal.  

 

I kept checking the Alaskan Railroad direct and one day found that Goldstar service had opened up.  I had used the regular Adventure class service before but wanted to try Goldstar service.  It includes two beverages, breakfast, a glass ceiling car and large outdoor viewing platform.  I jumped at the opportunity at $212.  

 

There are two reasons I canceled the Royal transfer train and went with a direct booking.

 

1. The Royal transfers departs around noon.  I would be awake and just hanging around killing time until noon.  With a 4 hour train ride it would arrive in Seward around 4pm.  That's plenty of time with an 8pm sail away but that was way too late to board a ship for me when I could board anytime after 10am.  The train booked direct leaves at 6:45am and arrives before noon.
2. The Royal transfer doesn't offer Goldstar service.

Here is a photo of Adventure class from 2017:

 

 

The hotel shuttle to the train station was at 5:15am.  Up early and in the lobby a few minutes later we were soon on our way to the train station.

 

Already I was noticing a big difference from June.  It was much darker at 5am than it was a few months earlier.

 

At the train station they collect luggage for regular train passengers just going to Seward like on any other day but they also have a special drop off area for cruise ship passengers.

 

 

In this tent to the far right you can see a Royal Caribbean sign.  With my ship tags attached I simply dropped my bag here and never touched them again until they appeared outside my cabin door on the ship.  Because you never see your luggage in Seward, make sure your passports, valuables and cruise docs are with you on the train.

 

Arriving early the train station was empty and I quickly received my assigned seat ticket, a pin for Goldstar service and a route map.  

 

 

 

They have coffee and a few light snacks like muffins for purchase.

 

 

I had 45 minutes to kill so I went outside, took some photos.

 

Goldstar is the first two cars, the regular cars are Adventure class and what the Royal transfer train uses.

 

 

 

Back in the station it was getting packed:

 

 

Soon enough our conductor approached and "All Aboard" was called.

 

Today I would be in car "B".  

 

 

First one onboard I took some pictures before other passengers arrived.

 

 

 

The outdoor viewing platform:

 

Edited October 25, 2018 by twangster

[twangster]

The train is a great way to get from Anchorage to the port. 

  

 

First drink of the day, Mimosa!

 

 

 

 

 

This is all glacier silt from thousands of years of run off.  Our guide tells us they once wanted to build a bridge across this channel.  They needed to find bedrock so they started drilling into the silt.  They gave up at 2,000 feet.  

 

 

 

The announcer or guide spent most of her time in our car and it was nice to chat with her between announcements. 

 

Here we are beside the Seward Highway.

 

 

 

Our bartender on this day...

 

 

Time for a Bloody Mary.

 

 

I really enjoyed the glass ceiling.  The views were incredible.

 

 

The dining car area was on the first floor below us and they led us down in groups as it only hold 20 at a time. 

 

 

Breakfast is included with Goldstar service, including another Mimosa I discovered.  

 

 

I had the Aurora Breakfast last year so I tried the Sourdough French Toast.  It was very good.  

 

Back upstairs the conductor was punching tickets and talking with passengers.

 

 

A moose was announced on the right.  I saw it very well but by the time I raised my camera all I got was a blurry back end of a moose running away.  Can you see it?

 

 

We made a quick scheduled stop in Girdwood to pick up a few more passengers.  After that we continued into the mountains.

 

 

 

 

Glaciers were announced as we approached them.

 

  

 

 

 

 

 

More moose spotted:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The train slowed as we crossed over this stream so we could see dozens of spawning Salmon.  It was easier to see with our eyes but if you look closely you will see the deep pink fish in the river.

 

 

 

Finally our ship appeared in the distance.

 

 

 

With that we had arrived in Seward.

 

 

 

 

It's hard to capture the beauty of Alaska with a simple camera.  It really needs to be experienced first hand.

[twangster]

The pier and cruise ship terminal are both by the railroad.  They offer free motor coaches to get from the train to the ship but I prefer to walk the 1/2 mile.  

 

 

It's not too often you see this sign.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The Diamond and Diamond Plus line had 4 groups ahead of me .  The other lines were a little longer but with people arriving through out the day you don't tend to see the massive terminal crowds on boarding day you see at other cruise embarkation ports.

 

 

The gangway:

 

 

 

With that I was on board at 11:48am.

Edited October 25, 2018 by twangster

[twangster]

I headed up and checked out the pool deck and other topside areas.

 

The lifeguard informed me the outdoor pool is heated to 84° F.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The terminal as seen from the ship:

 

 

Solarium:

 

 

 

 

 

 

[twangster]

Still dragging my carry on around I went to the Concierge Lounge to wait for cabins to open:

 

 

[twangster]

Cabin tour!

 

Cabins were ready 15 minutes early at 1:15pm.

 

Interior Cabin 4519.  Starboard side, deck 4, near forward elevator lobby.

 

 

 

 

Shower curtain despite the makings of a shower door type enclosure.  It was like it used to have a door, but they had pulled all that out and put up a shower curtain.

 

 

 

[twangster]

Dinner at 6pm

 

 

Totally forgot to take food pictures.

 

Service was excellent and they honored Diamond Happy Hour drinks in the MDR.

 

Back outside a double rainbow appeared as rain appeared to be moving in with increasing cloud cover.

 

 

Time for muster approaching I dropped off my camera in the cabin and headed to muster.  U2 for me, outdoors on the covered deck 5 under the lifeboats.

 

 

The other end of the double rainbow appeared.  A few minutes later the muster drill started.

 

 

Soon after it concluded we started to sail away.

 

 

The cloud cover had increased and with that there was no sunset tonight worth taking photos of. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

With that day one is complete.  I was tired from a late arrival in Anchorage and early departure the next morning so i went to bed shortly after this.

[twangster]

Day Two - Hubbard Glacier

 

Our arrival at the glacier was set for early afternoon so we had a regular sea day for the first half of the day. 

 

I discovered a letter on my cabin door informing me I had not attended the muster drill.  I had attended muster and gave my cabin number like I always do.  The letter said to attend the secondary muster at 8:30pm - the previous night. 

 

I stopped by guest services and showed the pictures on my phone of the rainbow with a timestamp two minutes before muster officially started.  They said not to worry about.  They didn't ask my cabin number or name, they just told me it's okay.  I had been in and out of my cabin several times and had gone to bed after 8:30pm yet don't recall seeing the letter on my door the night before.   Nothing more came of this. 

 

I was up early due to my body clock being several time zones earlier so I took the opportunity to take some pictures around an empty ship.

 

The Centrum

 

 

 

 

 

 

Radiance does not have a Vintages.  Instead it has the Champagne Bar with awesome sea views and seating right by the windows.

 

 

I've often thought the entrance to the Schooner Bar on Radiance class ships is a waste of space since cruise ship real estate is hard to come by but it's pretty to look at.

 

 

 

 

Radiance class does have great views of the sea from many different public venues.

 

 

 

 

Breakfast in the Windjammer.  Custom made omelet at the omelet station and fruit.  The abundance of fruit is something I always try to enjoy in the Windjammer.

 

Our progress so far:

 

 

Lunch in the Solarium, double Kümmelweck.  Noted these options as well:

 

Edited October 25, 2018 by twangster

[twangster]

Day 2 - Hubbard Glacier, continued...

 

After lunch commences with a distant view of our destination.  It's raining lightly and quite overcast.  Pretty much the same as my last visit to the Hubbard Glacier.  

 

 

The weather was clearing and our views improving.

 

 

 

 

 

Crowds were starting to build on the helipad.

 

 

With my telephoto lens I could start to see the glacier in greater detail.

 

 

 

The skies were really clearing now and it was turning into a glorious day.

 

 

 

 

Drinks were offered for purchase:

 

 

I was moving around enjoying different perspectives from around the ship.

 

 

We sailed through a group of ice that made this weird but incredible sound as we pushed through it.  It was very cool and deck 5 was the perfect place to experience it.

 

 

 

I moved up to deck 12 to try to take in more of the entire face.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We started to see some hints of calving.  It had been pretty quiet up to this point.

 

 

I switched to video and managed to catch some great calving action on video.  Here are some still frames from that video:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Here is another section giving way in the right half of the face:

 

You can see it started with a small shower of ice falling away.

 

 

To the right of this partially hidden another small shower begins:

 

 

In the hole in the glacier I could larger pieces caving in:

 

 

A larger section then broke free and fell into the water:

 

 

 

Soon after a much larger section started its slide and crash into the water:

 

 

 

The splash was immense:

 

 

 

 

A decent sized wave started coming our way:

 

 

It's much more impressive on video so I uploaded some of my footage to Youtube:

 

 

It was incredible and the pictures and videos don't do it justice.  It's something best experienced live.

[twangster]

The Captain had originally come in and placed the ship so cabins on one side could see the glacier.  By the time I took the video above the Captain had turned the ship so that cabins on the other side could see the glacier. 

 

I sensed our time was coming to an end so I ventured around the ship to get some ship photos with the glacier as a backdrop.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

With that we began our departure from Hubbard Glacier.

 

[twangster]

By now it was a blue sky kind of day and the views departing were equally magnificent.

 

 

 

 

 

Great views from the aft balconies:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Here is a video sailing away from the Hubbard Glacier:

 

 

•  

[twangster]

Key take aways from Hubbard Glacier

 

Don't just stay on your cabin balcony (if you have one).  Had you been on your balcony the whole time you might have missed all of the video I shot above, oblivious that it even occurred.  Pushing through the ice and hearing it from deck 5 then heading to the helipad, then heading to deck 12, then the Viking Crown Lounge all yielded very different experiences. 

 

The face of the glacier is taller than the ship.  That puts into perspective the size of some of the ice chunks that were falling off and splashing into the water.

 

Still photos are great but when it comes to calving, video is best.  

 

There is plenty of railing for everyone, no need to hog one spot.  You are better to move around.

 

I had an interior cabin.  A balcony is not required to experience Alaska.  If a bucket list cruise is funded by a barrel sized bank account, go for a balcony, but don't miss this experience thinking you must save years to have a balcony in Alaska.      

 

Don't worry about the weather.  Bring rain gear, bring gloves.  Be prepared but if your day starts out wet and cold as this day did, perhaps it will turn for you as it did for me.  It's Alaska, you just never know.  

 

The calving was much better this year compared to last year.  You just never know how it will be on your day at the glacier.

 

We didn't do the circles we did on Explorer or Millennium last year.  One side had the view for a while, then the other.   Each Captain is different I guess.  No complaints, especially with the calving we saw.

 

I had to chuckle when I heard someone say exactly what I said last year as we departed Hubbard Glacier.  "If this cruise ended right now I wouldn't even complain". 

Edited October 25, 2018 by twangster

[twangster]

Day 2 - Evening.  Formal Night.

 

I had a 7pm My Time reservation but with my stomach still on home time two hours later I wasn't going to make it.  Dinner in the Windjammer!  This gave me more time to enjoy the Concierge Club and take some pictures.  A regular after dinner crowd had already bonded in the club and sitting around the bar as a solo was quite enjoyable.  Much better than alone at a table for two in the club.  

 

We continued down the coast and much like last year some very prominent mountains were floating in the sky off our port side.  

 

 

 

 

Another relatively early night for me.  I wanted to catch our arrival in Juneau in the morning.

[twangster]

Day 3 - Juneau

 

I woke early to capture our arrival in Juneau.  I had the helipad to myself.

 

At this point we are still 20 miles or so from Juneau but this is what sets an Alaskan cruise apart from the Caribbean - sailing down channels with mountains on either side of you.

 

Our progress so far:

 

 

Overnight we sailed right past Icy Strait Point.  We head back there after Skagway in two days time.

 

 

 

 

 

Pictures are great but here is a video from the moment so you can experience it better.

 

 

Approaching the pier you can see the Mt Roberts Tramway and the clouds at the top.  More on those later.

 

 

Prime pier location this morning, right off the Tramway station and bus parking area used for many excursions.

 

 

No excursion booked today, just plan on doing my own thing.  I wanted to see how weather would be and would make a game day decision on the Mt. Roberts Tramway.  The other idea I had was to visit the Mendenhall Glacier Park on my own.  

[twangster]

Juneau - Mt Roberts Tramway

 

Weather looked good so around 9am I headed off the ship and purchased an all day ticket for $34 in the tramway station.  There were no lines so I walked right to the front to wait for a descending tram to arrive.  Later in the day there would be long lines.  There were still some clouds lingering near the top but I figured they would clear while I was up there.  Soon enough a tram arrived.

 

 

The tram had been in and out of the clouds so there were drops of water on the windows but it was still quite amazing.  I secured a spot looking back as most folks ventured forward.  I knew the best views would be rear facing.

 

 

 

At the top the clouds were moving back in.

 

 

There is a raptor center that contains a bald eagle who was injured, walking trails and hiking trails.  The trails near the tram station are easy to walk while the trail to the very top of Mt Roberts is more aggressive and better suited to people used to hiking.  

 

 

 

It was clear then more clouds moved in.  You can barely make out the outline of a ship along the edge in this photo. 

 

 

 

There are viewing platforms that can easy to access for non-hikers.

 

 

Here is a short time lapse video of the clouds from that viewing platform.  I quite enjoyed watching the clouds roll through the valley.

 

I continued up the trails in the direction of the peak.

 

 

Mt Roberts is names after Father Brown, a Jesuit Priest who was an avid hiker and volunteered with a newly formed trail association in Juneau in the early 1900s.  He erected a cross, long since replaced with this more modern version.

 

 

 

 

As you climb higher the trail becomes more suited to hiking boots over sneakers.  Fortunately I had brought mine.

 

 

With the clouds clearing I spotted an old friend who has been stalking me on this cruise.  

 

 

That's the Explorer of the Seas making her scheduled noon arrival in Juneau as her first stop since leaving Seattle on the same day we left Seward.

 

 

 

 

 

After this I continued the ascent.

 

 

The trail was getting steeper.

 

 

At this point it was noon and I was getting hungry.  Plus I wanted to visit Mendenhall Glacier.  The peak was another 90 minutes up which meant about the same to get back to this spot, plus at least that much to get all the way down. 

 

Did I mention i was having Windjammer withdrawal?  

 

 

With the weather clear I was able to get a great view of the ships as I retraced my steps heading back down.

 

 

 

[twangster]

Located at the top near the tram station is a raptor center where you will find Lady Baltimore.  She was permanently injured and is non-releasable so she is in the care of the non-profit Juneau Raptor Center.

 

 

 

 

 

[twangster]

Now after 1pm it was time to head to lunch.  The tram had a 20 minute wait to return down.  During the wait we were entertained by a soaring Eagle circling the area.  It was amazing to watch.

 

 

With the water drops dried the view was spectacular.

 

 

At 1:15pm the line was very long.  It snaked around inside the tram station and then outside to this area.  It had to be at least 90 minutes from here. 

 

 

 

I suggest you go early, even if you need to wait for some clouds to clear.  That is typically around 11am in September I was told.  No doubt Explorer's 12:30pm arrival contributed to the crowds.

 

There is a trail you can take from the bottom to the tramway station.   That will save you the $34 but research it and understand what you are getting into if you plan to go up this way.

 

 With the ship right there I headed directly to the Windjammer.

[twangster]

Juneau - Mendenhall Glacier

 

With an 8:30pm departure there was lots of day left to keep exploring.  I had visited Mendenhall Glacier by helicopter and on a tour bus as part of a tour.  I didn't like the short times and must-follow-the-leader tour bus approach.  

 

I checked Lyft,.  Ride-sharing services are new to Alaska within the last 12 months.  They didn't work in Anchorage in June 2017.  Uber isn't active in Juneau yet ( it was in Anchorage).

 

 

For a solo traveler, $29 each way doesn't make a lot of sense compared to the local shuttle called the Glacier express or the "Blue Bus".  It is $45 round trip and that includes the park fee.  I walked up to the line of excursion kiosks on the pier and paid by credit card.  A bus, in the parking lot on the other side of the tram station was just about to leave.

 

 

It's a short ride through town, the Lyft app above shows the route.  It takes about 25 minutes and the driver acts as a guide and provides color commentary along the way.

 

The bus parking lot is a 4 minute walk from the visitors center.  In this map you can see it as a U shaped area on the left of the road.

 

 

At the end of the shuttle bus lot is a nature trail with a viewing platform.  From here you could see Salmon spawning in the river.

 

 

 

Here is a short video I took of them:

 

 

This nature trail continues towards the main visitor's center and is a path our bus guide took us down in June.  

It's an elevated boardwalk where sometimes you can see bears looking for food in the river.  No bears today.

 

 

Continuing along the boardwalk takes you to the main part of the park.

 

 

 

Walking past the visitor's center there are trails (in the map above) for great views of the glacier.  This is from the orange trail in the map.

 

 

Today I wanted to explore Nugget Falls to the right of the glacier.  It's a 30-45 minute walk along smooth paths, paved in areas, packed gravel in other areas.  A scooter could do this trail.

 

 

This trail is the dark blue line on the map above.

 

 

 

 

 

There is a lot of mist in the air and it's hard to keep a lens clean.

 

 

Kayak and canoe trips to the glacier face are popular and you can see them in the water here:

 

 

By this time I had spent 3 hours here so I wandered back to the fish creek to see if any bears had arrived. 

 

Unfortunately not.  

 

Tired after my morning hike up Mt Roberts and wandering around here I found the blue bus getting ready to depart (every 30 minutes).   I determined that I needed to get back to Diamond happy hour the ship.

[twangster]

Juneau - Dinner

 

My Time Dining.

 

 

Fish of the Day was Salmon.  I'm not a huge fish fan but I know it's good for you and I went with it.

 

[twangster]

Juneau - Evening

 

A quick look outside to judge sunset potential.  Here is Explorer.  

 

The Royal Caribbean Blog Group Cruise was on Explorer in June and around this time of night in Juneau I was on that ship looking over at Radiance.

 

 

 

Up to the Concierge Club to hang out with my new friends for a few drinks.  From here I could see a sunset getting better so I ventured out through the Viking Crown Lounge to take a look.

 

 

 

 

The sun was going quickly.  This next photo was at 8:10pm.  Sail away soon after the 8:30pm all aboard.  

 

 

 

We departed first with Explorer soon to follow.  We'll meet again in Skagway on day 4 and based on my Explorer experience, Radiance goes in first and docks, then Explorer occupies the end of of the pier in front of Radiance.  

Juneau sail away scope, sailing past Explorer

 

 

 

 

Heading in deck 12 after this I looked down through the glass portal into the Centrum:

 

 

Off to the Schooner Bar, another nightly tradition where I met the same folks night after night.  If you go during the shows it's empty and we enjoyed engaging with the crew.  As soon as the show lets out the bar gets quite busy.  On another night one of the musicians was very talented on the piano.  On this night the duo on strings were very good but their soft and slow music was putting me to sleep so I went off in search of something more lively.  Not finding it I went to bed.

 

The amount of daylight and sunset is remarkably different tonight compared to June.  These were taken from Explorer in June as Radiance sailed past Explorer at the same time of day:

 

 

[twangster]

For Mendenhall Glacier, the USDA website may be helpful.  

 

https://www.fs.usda.gov/detail/tongass/about-forest/offices/?cid=stelprdb5400800

 

They have a PDF of the Park that includes the trail map above.

[twangster]

Day 4 - Skagway

 

We arrived on time and settled into our position on the pier with the sun trying to rise above the surrounding mountains.  

 

 

 

As expected Explorer was behind us.

 

 

Breakfast in the Windjammer with the type of incredible views you only get in Alaska.

 

 

The White Pass and Yukon Route train is a popular excursion so very convenient since the railroad owns the pier and drives the train right to the ship.  

 

 

I had no no excursion booked having the train last year and a different excursion in June.  I wanted to check out the Gold Rush Cemetery and with good weather it looked like this would be the day to do it. 

 

 

For anyone who didn't buy the train excursion prior to causing they have ticket booths set up just outside of the secure pier area.

 

 

You can walk to town or for $2 each way ($5 all day pass) you can take a SMART bus (Skagway Municipal and Regional Transit).  It picks up not far from the pier.

 

 

 The 20 minute walk is easy so that is what I usually do.

 

 

 

 

This connects to a small river walk or you head straight into town.

 

 

At this point with the blue sky and old train parked near town I discovered I left my phone on the ship.  I needed that as my GPS today.  Forty minutes later I picked back up from this same spot.

 

 

You can drive to Skagway from the lower 48 and Canada so there are other tourists in town.  A campground near the river above is popular in the summer.  Those folks wanting to ride the train would use the regular train station in town.

 

 

 

A large portion of the area is part of Klondike National Historic Park.

 

 

My mission was to reach the Gold Rush Cemetery just outside of town. 

 

 

After walking through town to the railroad yard and workshop:

 

 

The cemetery is on the other side another 1/2 mile up a dirt road.

 

 

The carcass of an old locomotive long out of service:

 

 

 

 

A few trains rattled past.

 

[twangster]

Skagway - Gold Rush Cemetery

 

 

A large parking lot for those who take an excursion or who drive their own car.  Toilets near the parking lot. 

 

 

 

 

"Streetcars" drove past me as I walked here on the dirt road.  

 

 

The cemetery was primarily used during the era of the 1898 gold rush but there we a few burials over the next few decades after that.

 

 

 

 

Frank Reid played a prominent role in Skagway's history.  When I first arrived the Streetcar guide was giving a talk to her tour about Frank's interaction with 'Soapy' Smith that led to both of their deaths in a shoot out.

 

 

Continuing through the small cemetery takes you to a trail to Lower Reid Falls.