Poesia W. Mediterranean plus Barcelona Oct/Nov '19 photo journal

[mimmy52]

Five ladies had planned a Western Mediterranean cruise on the Poesia.  One was looking for a roommate, and as soon as Barcelona and Casablanca were mentioned, I didn't need to hear any more, I was ready to book.  Four of us are in our 70s, we had one youngster in her early 50s, and a birthday girl who turned 65 during the cruise.  We had the Bella experience and since I'm very much a budget traveler, that was fine with me.  My roommate-to-be had booked through a travel agent, so all it took was another call to set me up.

 

I had to call MSC only once about some excursions I'd booked.  I was on hold about ten minutes although expecting longer from what I'd read on CC about hold times.  The agent was patient with me, walking me through a process on my computer.

 

I have little experience with ocean cruising.  I was on the Grand Princess for an Alaskan cruise in 2015 and a cruise of the Greek Isles with what was then Louis Cruises in 2011, so I don't have a lot of comparison.  I spent two days prior to the cruise in Barcelona, our embarkation port.

 

Our ports were Barcelona, Casablanca, Tenerife, Funchal, Malaga, Civitavecchia (Rome), Genoa, and Marseille.

 

Now I'll cross my fingers that I did this correctly.

 

[mimmy52]

I flew from St. Louis to Philadelphia and landed in F terminal.  Took the airport shuttle to A terminal for my international flight.

On the shuttle

 

It was already 4:00 Eastern time so I had a late lunch at Chickie and Pete's.  A big bowl of clam chowder and a glass of Pinot Grigio, my favorite wine.

Chickie & Pete's

My lunch

 

Boarding for the flight to Barcelona was quick.  I had an aisle seat in the middle section (4 across) but my seat back screen wasn't working.  The flight attendant said I could move elsewhere so I moved across the aisle and had both a window seat and an aisle seat since the plane was at most 3/4 full, maybe less. The consensus seemed to be that there were a lot of cancellations due to fear of the protests in Barcelona. 

It wasn't quite as empty as it appears in this photo--boarding was still going on. 

About an hour after take off, we were served dinner.  That's a roll in the middle of my pasta.  It looks like an onion.

 

I wish I could sleep on an overnight flight such as this one.  I did try.  Before we landed, we were served a snack.  I remember the days when you were given breakfast.  We had peach yogurt, a fig bar, and granola, but I was never able to get the package of granola open.

 

[mimmy52]

We're almost there!

 

The captain said it was raining in Barcelona, and it did look stormy.

 

Although we landed early at 8:30, for some reason we were at an unfinished terminal and had to deplane down steps in the rain.  We took a bus to the customs area.  It was 10:00 when I finished with immigration and customs.  Because of potential transportation problems due to protests, I decided to go with a private driver, scheduled online with Welcome Pickups for 10:00 so it worked out perfectly.  Driver Jamal pointed out a few sites along the way to my hotel including the bullfight arena that is now a shopping mall.

 

I was staying at the Hotel Lleo near Placa Catalunya.

 

 

 

 

Within ten minutes of my arrival, my room was ready.  There's a privacy wall blocking the beds from the windows.  It was a nice large room with a good-sized bathroom and a shower so fancy I had to get special instructions in order to use it.

 

My view from the windows.

[mimmy52]

Tuesday, October 22, the day I landed in Barcelona, and the rain had stopped.  There was a lot I wanted to do and a short time to do it.  Online I had purchased the premium ticket for Gaudi's La Pedera/Casa Mila building.  It cost 7 euros more than a regular ticket, but instead of having to enter at a certain date and time, I could come any time within six months of ticket purchase.  This worked out great for me since I didn't know when I'd be able to visit.  La Pedera was Gaudi's last major work before he dedicated himself to the Sagrada Familia church.

 

I was steps away from the Universitat metro station so I bought a T10 ticket that gave me 10 rides on public transportation. 

Waiting in the subway station

 

I only went one stop to Passeig de Gracia so I don't know if I saved any steps since there is a lot of walking underground.  There are several exits from the metro station and when I came up to street level, I was somewhat disoriented.  Where am I?  It took me a few minutes plus a question asked of a shopkeeper to get on the right track.

 

It was just a few blocks to the "Block of Discord," where there are three buildings with different modernista architecture.

Casa Lleo Morera

 

Casa Amatller and Casa Batllo

 

And my destination La Pedera/Casa Mila

 

With the premium ticket, I was escorted directly to the roof.  The roof is closed if it's raining which is why I was hurrying to get there.  I had read, maybe even on CC, that the chimneys on La Pedera were George Lucas's inspiration for the storm troopers.  I could see how that would be true.

 

[mimmy52]

 

 

The next stop is the attic where the main attraction is the parabolic arches that support the roof.

 

Then down another flight to the apartment that still contains some of its original furnishings (it was built between 1906 and 1912).

 

 

 

 

 

 

[mimmy52]

It was about 1:00 when I left La Pedera and the peach yogurt from breakfast on the plane seemed a long time ago.  There are many little sidewalk cafes along Passeig de Gracia so I stopped at one called Il Caffe di Francisco.

 

I had a skinny Manchego on rustic bread and a Coke.

 

As I continued my walk toward Las Ramblas, there were other interesting buildings.

 

 

It had gotten rather gloomy almost as if night were falling, but it wasn't night--it was rain.  As I walked from the top of Las Ramblas toward the waterfront, it rained off and on.  Las Ramblas is bisected by a pedestrian area with kiosks and restaurants and on the street sides there are shops and more restaurants.  Some of the kiosks in the pedestrian area had succulents and flowers.

 

Just as it started to rain really hard, I was near La Boqueria Market.

[mimmy52]

The market was jam packed both with people and shops.  The candy section was near the entrance.  Halloween would soon be here.

 

There were a lot of shops selling fish and they had interesting displays.

 

 

These guys seem to be asking, "Wha' happened?"

 

The most interesting, and creepiest, was the shop selling lamb including little lamb heads with their teeth showing.  No photos were allowed there. 

There are also places you can buy cooked food including a couple of restaurants.

 

[tcmagnum]

Love your review and pictures!!

 

[mimmy52]

The rain had eased when I left the market so I was able to get some good photos of the Umbrella House.  Dating from 1858, the owner had an umbrella shop that originally took up the entire ground floor.

 

A closer look at the Chinese dragon holding a lantern on the corner of the building.

 

And one more view.  The house fascinated me and I was glad I didn't drown in the rain looking up at it.

 

There's also a Joan Miro mosaic smack dab in the middle of Las Ramblas.  Walking on art.

 

By the time I got to the Columbus statue, the weather had become chillier and it was very very windy.

 

So I decided I'd take the metro back to my hotel.

 

[mimmy52]

Thank you, tcmagnum.  It's always nice to know I'm not talking just to myself, although I do enjoy creating the journal.

[mimmy52]

It had been a long day for me so I went to a nearby restaurant early to eat and then get a good night's sleep.  Macchina was just about a block away.

 

Yes, here I am in Spain eating pasta.  At Macchina you choose your pasta type, then the sauce, then any additions such as vegetables you might want.  I was too early for most people.

 

I like simple food so my meal of spaghetti with a cream and parmesan sauce and added black olives, along with a glass of house white, was perfect for me.  It was also cheap, only 9.80 euros although then I had a second glass of house white and that added another 2.50.

 

And that was it for me.  It was bed time as soon as I returned to the hotel.  Thunderstorms woke me up around 11:30 pm and then I started hearing noises that I took to be from protests--shouts, fireworks or gun shots, but I was safe inside and went back to sleep.  The last I heard of the protest noise was around 3am.

 

Wednesday, October 23

The weather prediction is for rain all day.  Bummer.

My room cost included breakfast in the hotel on floor -1.  The lobby is on floor 0.  The restaurant, and all the hotel for that matter, was very clean.  Not too many guests around yet.

 

The buffet was more extensive than I expected.  This hotel has been a happy surprise.  There were three hot meats along with maybe five cold meats.

 

Various types of eggs of course.

 

And delicious pastries and breads.

 

And much more such as fruit and cereal.  I left fortified for the day.

 

[Oakman58]

I"m looking forward to the rest of your report.  I got chill just reading about the cool weather and rain.  I hate it when I visit an area and photos aren't allowed unless it's a religious service or something similar.  I keep entertaining the idea of buying one of the ball point pens with a hidden camera just for such places.  I would have loved to see a picture of the lamb heads with their teeth showing.

[Oakman58]

4 minutes ago, mimmy52 said:

And that was it for me.  It was bed time as soon as I returned to the hotel.  Thunderstorms woke me up around 11:30 pm and then I started hearing noises that I took to be from protests--shouts, fireworks or gun shots, but I was safe inside and went back to sleep.  The last I heard of the protest noise was around 3am.

 

 

 

 

I think that would have freaked me out.  I prefer all protests to be far far away from me.

[mimmy52]

I left the hotel about 8:15 for the Sagrada Familia, Gaudi's famous unfinished church.  My timed entry ticket that I purchased online is for 9:30 but I wanted time to walk around the outside first.  I took the metro to the Sagrada Familia stop. Construction on the church began in 1882 and they're still working on it.  They hope to have it finished by 2026, the anniversary of Gaudi's death (he was hit by a tram and killed).

My first view of Sagrada Familia after coming up from the metro station.  It looks as if it should be two separate churches.

 

This is the Nativity facade, the only one finished in Gaudi's lifetime.  It's difficult to actually see all the carvings.

 

A close up of the spires.  The tree was a surprise.

 

A better look at the carvings.  The holy family--sagrada familia--is centered between the doors.  The magi are on the left and the shepherds are on the right.

 

To me, the facade gives the appearance of it melting.

 

Walking around to the side.

[mimmy52]

54 minutes ago, Oakman58 said:

 

 

I think that would have freaked me out.  I prefer all protests to be far far away from me.

 

Oakman, I think that's why our plane to Barcelona was so empty.

[mimmy52]

On this side is the Glory Facade.

 

 

Then on to the Passion Facade.  The Nativity Facade, the story of Christ's birth, is supposed to be joyful, although all that melting stuff makes it seem less so to me.  The Passion Facade is sad.  It's the story of Christ's crucifixion.

 

Next to the Passion Facade is this, I don't know if it has a name.

 

 

A closeup of one of the statues on the Passion Facade.

[mimmy52]

The crucifixion

 

Then it was my time to enter.  An audio guide was included with admission cost.  I think I gasped when I entered, and I'm disappointed that the stained glass doesn't show up as well in my photos.  I can see why people say that a good time to visit is during sunset.

 

The crucifix above the altar.

 

The supporting columns are made to resemble trunks and branches of trees.

 

Stained glass on the other side of the basilica.

 

I spent some time inside the church but I didn't go up the tower.  I wasn't certain how timing would work out.  There is a museum on the lower level with a window to the workshop and a craftsman was at work (although he isn't in the picture).

 

[2013cruiser2013]

I'm really enjoying your posts and photos. 

[mimmy52]

16 hours ago, 2013cruiser2013 said:

I'm really enjoying your posts and photos. 

 

Thanks 2013cruiser.

[mimmy52]

After the morning at Sagrada Familia, I had a timed ticket for 1:00 at another Gaudi development, Parc Guell.  But first I wanted something to eat, so I walked across the street to Friss Cafe.

 

I ordered inside, tortilla de patatas and a Coke, but ate outside under an awning. 

 

So far my umbrella hadn't been needed and I was starting to see patches of blue in the sky.  I had a nice view of the basilica from my table at Friss Cafe.

 

To get to Parc Guell, I took the metro to the Alfons X stop where there is a shuttle that takes you to the park.  When you buy a ticket in advance, the shuttle is included in the price.  All you have to do is show your ticket for the park.  I managed to find the correct exit from the metro and when I came up the stairs, the shuttle bus was parked right outside.  The bus filled up until it was a sardine can, then left for the park.

 

Gaudi had intended the park to be an upscale housing development.  It was started in 1900 but stalled during WWI and never resumed.  Now it's an interesting place to visit.  The bus drops you off at the free area.  The entrance to the timed ticket booth for the Monumental Zone was farther than I expected, and I had started thinking I'd somehow passed it when I came upon it.  Some renovations are in progress, and the tiled bench area was covered on two sides leaving only the middle section open.

 

Overlooking the Monumental Area from the benches.

 

Edited November 13, 2019 by mimmy52
addition

[mimmy52]

The tower on the building that houses a book shop.

 

I started down a stairway next to the Marketplace aka The Hall of 100 Columns.  About 75 percent of the hall is covered in netting for renovations and is out of bounds.  The part that was open was still pretty amazing.

 

Some colorful mosaics on the ceiling.

 

From the hall, I worked my way down the stairs with the fountains and the dragon.

 

He doesn't breathe fire but instead drools water, and he looks more like a lizard.  But a beautiful lizard.  It's really hard to get a picture of this guy without someone being right in front getting their picture taken.

 

This is the building that houses a museum.  I didn't go inside.

[tcmagnum]

Parc Guell...

Looks amazing!!  Somewhere I'm hoping to get to visit!!

[mimmy52]

The book shop is in this building.

 

This structure was for an automobile and a cart.

 

It was getting hot, and when I came across a little cafe that had sandwiches and snacks, I relaxed for a while with ice cream and water.

 

Continuing through the park, I took stairs up to the pathway of columns.

 

There's a washer woman on one of the columns.

 

The mosaic bench from another angle.

[mimmy52]

There is a lovely garden on the side of the terrace where the benches are.

 

And a flock of these green birds nest in the palm trees.

 

Another structure as I was leaving the park.  This is in the free area.  There are a lot of walking areas in the free area if you didn't want to pay to enter the Monumental Zone.

 

I was meeting friends for dinner, but there was still enough time for one more site, Montjuic, if I hurried.  I took the Park Guell shuttle (you need to save your ticket so you can show it to get back on the shuttle) to the Alfons X metro stop and took the metro to the Paral-lel stop.  A walk through the underground and there's the entrance to the funicular.

 

 

You don't see much going up in the funicular since it's mostly a tunnel.  At the top, I crossed the street and bought a ticket for the Teleferic to get to the top of Montjuic.

 

[xznwfd]

Wonderful review!  I'm really enjoying your photos and background stories.  Thank you!!