Amazon & Caribbean Adventure, February, 2023 Report with Iberostar Grand Amazon River Cruise after Viking

[TayanaLorna]

Just now, TayanaLorna said:

Manaus, Brazil March 2, 2023

 

As we neared Manaus in the morning we noticed some of the homes were much nicer, cattle farms were more numerous and there was more industry.  We also saw the first bridge across the Amazon.  We passed through the Meeting of the Waters where the muddy Amazon River met the clear water of the Rio Negro.  This water color difference phenomena can be seen from satellite. 

 

We arrived and were anchored off Manaus by Noon and shortly thereafter the excursions began.  A pontoon was pulled up alongside The Sea and all the excursions except the Included and the History of Manaus & Its People boarded their tour boats directly on the pontoon.  The shoreshide excursions boarded their local tender boat on the pontoon in order to be transfered to their waiting bus on shore.

 

We had cancelled our Manaus Rubber Museum & Indigenous Village excursion a few days beforehand.  Instead we packed, I got a massage and we relaxed.  Knowing we still had 5 days of excursions ahead of us from the Iberostar Grand Amazon as well as in Manaus, we just enjoyed our last day on Viking.  Friends who were on the same excursion that we cancelled loved it.  Only drawback was that it poured rain at some point on the 4.5 hour excursion and the land became quite muddy.  We saw numerous guests upon their return from this tour tip-toeing in their wet socks carrying their very muddy shoes to their cabin.  Other friends who joined a Viking Included said it was passable but the Zoo they were taken to was sad.  

 

Manaus is 1,000 miles upriver from the Atlantic Ocean and is the most populous city in the Amazon basin with close to 2 million residents.  Other then its historic district with its either maintained or restored buildings including the Teatro Amazonas (the Opera House) and a few well maintained buildings nearby such as the Palacio Rio Negro (Rio Negro Palace), the city is rather run down.  The saving grace for Manaus was the establishment of a Free Trade Zone.  Manaus is the main transport hub for the entire upper Amazon basin.  It imports beef from the hinterlands and exports hides and leather.  Important industries in the Port of Manaus include manufacturing soap, chemicals, electronics equipment as well as shipbuilding, brewing and petroleum refining.  There is a large concencentration of electronics, two-wheeled vehicles, optical products, and computer products.  The waterside is bustling with activity.  Passenger ferries coming and going, fishing boats off-loading their catch, all manner of goods wheeled to and from docked boats and heavy street traffic.  From the Viking Sea we could view docked boats stretching along shore in both directions.

 

Here are some photos from our sail in as well as the anchorage.

 

For those folks who plan to take the Iberostar Grand Amazon further up the Amazon, its the long white boat to the far left along the water in the final photo.  Yes it does dock.  Actually when you embark, it is located on a pier near the double tall white building to the right of the photo.  The double white building is right across the street from the entrance to the Port of Manaus Terminal.

[Ex-Airbalancer]

We were going to do Iberostar Grand Amazon back in 2004 , the first year it was going to run for our 25th, but a day before getting our shots, we got a call that ship wouldn’t be ready for the cruise and we did a  Mexico Yucatán tour, and basic forgot about Iberostar ship 

It will be interesting to follow your journey 

[TayanaLorna]

Manaus, Brazil March 3, 2023

 

I completely described our disembarkation from the Viking Sea in Post #24 as an answer to a question from a follower.  The hardest part of the process was dragging our luggage to and fro.  We are accustomed to leaving our bags outside our stateroom door and then finding them in the port terminal.  Not the case here if you are traveling independently.  It was also very crowded in the Atrium with the only place to sit on the staircase.  The Brazilian authorities were delayed in setting up the dockside inspection point for luggage and the transfers were a bit backed up because of it.  We were glad we had allowed extra time to meet our guide in the port terminal.

 

Planning our post Viking independent extension was very stressful.  There was not much current information about the port, what to expect, was it safe etc as no international ships had cruised there since before the pandemic.  The Iberostar Grand Amazon reviews on Trip Advisor were glowing even though I had to translate most of them from Portuguese.  Reviews of Tours by Locals guides also were sparse.  All the hotel reviews were in Portuguese also.  I thoroughly researched everything I could and was satisfied that I made some right choices.  I read that guests on a previous Viking cruise did not pre arrange a taxi to the airport and relied on whomever might be at the terminal.  The "taxi" at the terminal curb was a local who charged $100 for 2 people and had an beat up old Renault with the trunk tied closed.  I suggested that our departing friends engage a legitimate taxi service to their hotel.  There are Ubers in Manaus but you better speak Portuguese to use them.

 

We were delighted that the bus dropped us off right at the entrance door to the terminal.  We dragged our bags into the terminal and began looking for our excursion guide.  We had sent him a WhatsApp message as we left the Sea and he responded he was on the way.  The terminal was surprisingly nice and there was a Tourist Information desk right in the entrance.  After we could not find our guide, a gal at the desk spoke English and telephoned him to learn his location.

 

Most tour companies found on Trip Advisor do not allow any luggage on their excursions.  We did not want to part with our bags even though there may have been an Iberostar desk in the terminal.  We found our guide, Aldinei C, through Tours By Locals, described our bags in our messaging and assurred he had room in this vehicle for them.  Once Al found us, we walked to his nearby parked car and were off for our excursion to MUSA (Museu da Amazonia). 

 

MUSA is an open air museum situated within the huge Adolpho Ducke Forest Reserve just North of Manaus.  At MUSA one can find exhibitions, an orchid and bromeliad house, a lake, aquariums, dinosaur bones excavated from the area, a 42 meter high tower that provides a magnificent view of the treetops and numerous hiking trails.  Aldinei was very knowledgable pointing out many plants, inspects, trees and explaining native forest survival techniques.  We saw our first monkeys of the Amazon here way up in the trees.  Al often took us off trail to take a closer look at something.  He always told us to stay and wait on the trail while we went and thrashed about with a stick.  Then he would indicate the all clear.  He was making sure there were no snakes lurking about thank goodness.  Visitors are required to wear long pants and footwear that entirely encloses the foot.  When we first parked at the museum, I asked Al if there were any mosquitoes.  He replied millions of them.  I grabbed my long sleeved bug sprayed shirt for the hike but we did not see any mosquitoes once again.

 

The drive to the reserve was almost an hour each way and it was not at all scenic.  The Manaus we saw was a typical commercially sprawling 2 million resident city of crowded streets and highways with motorbikes zipping in and out of traffic.  We had about 2 1/2 hours at the park and the visit was well worth it.  Al learned of my birding interest and, although we did not see many birds midday, we bird talked on the drive back to the Port.  He described the coloring and habits of many of the birds we would see further up the Amazon and really helped me to identify them later on.  He also does a guided birding tour which would be fabulous.

 

Upon arrival back at the Port, we were immediately met by a representative from Iberostar.  Boarding began at Noon but room availability and orientation was not until 3 pm.  We were very close to 3 pm by now and apparently among the last guests to arrive.  The rep had us load our bags into a wheeled cart and a short wirey older man whisked our bags down the dock expecting us to follow closely on his heels.  I literally could not keep up with this fellow while dodging other carts loaded with huge bags of onions, boxes of electronics, giant bags of oranges going both ways.  My DH kept up wi9th him and, by the time I arrived, our luggage was already being loaded on to the ship.  We were not on a floating dock and although it was the rainy season, the door to the ship was way below the level of the dock and there was a steep ramp to board.  We were surrounded by boat after boat along the dock as far as we could see.  I don't think I have ever experienced a port such as Manaus.

 

I will begin our Iberostar Grand Amazon adventure description in my next post.  For now, lets look at some MUSA photos.  The first photos are of the local boat used to ferry Viking guests to and from shore.  It was hot!!  The photo of the sign was at the port of Manaus indicating high water levels over the years.  The big water lillies can grow to 3 meters across and were named after Queen Victoria (Victoria Regina) who visited the Amazon and sat upon one very large specimen.  

 

[TayanaLorna]

Iberostar Heritage Grand Amazon

March 3, 2023

 

Once aboard the Grand Amazon we were ushered into the combination bar/theatre/lecture hall for an orientation and to receive our room assignments and keys.  We chose our floor by Cabin Type when we booked with the higher floors costing a tad more then the lower ones.  We reserved an Acara Suite on Deck 3 and when we arrived our luggage was sitting outside the door.  We were delighted with our cabin.  It looked exactly like the photos on line.  The veranda was smaller then a DV on Viking but it had 2 wooden deck chairs and a table.  There was a built in desk/shelving unit and one chair, a bench to fit an open suitcase but no seating area with coffee table like Viking.  However there was way more storage closets, drawers and shelves then in a Viking DV cabin.  The bathroom was large with a huge walk in shower but no shelves or drawers like Viking.

 

The Grand Amazon is 275 feet in length with 74 cabins housing 148 guests.  Deck 0 is the Karup Restaurant location, Deck 1 is half staterooms and the bar/theatre/lecture hall with access to the skiffs for excursions just aft of the hall.  Deck 2 contains the Reception desk, seating areas and staterooms. Deck 3 contains shops and staterooms.  Deck 4 forward contains the swimming pool, jacuzzi and lounging chairs all under the open sky.  Aft on Deck 4 is the bar, tables and chairs, the Tucano Grill and buffet area all under cover of a roof.  The floors 0-3 are served by a gorgeous grand staircase.  To get to the top deck one climbed another staircase.  One elevator serviced floors 0-4 and, as most guests were younger then me, I was about the only one to use it.  Dining whether it was at the top deck Tucano Grill or at the Karup Restaurant on Deck 0, was self service buffet.  There was also room service during certain hours which we never used.  Traveling on the Grand Amazon is all inclusive - all meals, snacks, alcoholic or soft drinks, wine, beer, excursions, lectures, entertainment were included.  There was a small gym and one could get a massage for a fee.  One could purchase bottles of wine or champagne but we were happy with what was served.

 

Unpacked, organized and showered we were ravenous not having time for lunch on our excursion.  We wandered up to the top deck and found a spread of appetizers available so we snacked on those and ordered some drinks.  Sail away was at 6 pm and most guests gathered here to watch it.  We gravitated towards the English speakers where besides the 4 people who we knew from the Viking cruise, we met a couple from South Africa.  Drinks were consumed and apparently the bartender/server liked me because he said he reserved a table for dinner especially for us.  Sunset was shortly after 6 pm and gorgeous.  We waved good bye to Manaus and the anchored Viking Sea.

 

Between 6 and 8 PM we were able to choose excursions for the next day which we did.  No excursions were full or sold out - we got exactly what we wanted.  The Captain's Welcome was at 7 PM in the bar/theatre/lecture hall.  We had a safety briefing at this time and more drinks before dinner.   The Karup Restaurant doors opened at 8 PM sharp and we were ushered to our reserved table and called our English speaking friends over to join us as it was a table for 8.  Dinner was outstanding consisting of a side table where two different hot soups were served and the U-shaped main buffet area with the fixings for a nice green salad, cheese, cold cuts, sausage and shrimps and then the hot entrees of all different meats, local river fish, vegetables, rice, potatoes.   Ice cream with toppings or choices of cakes and sweets were dessert.  Wine was freely poured - a choice of red or white.

 

I believe the evenings entertainment following dinner was a Magician but we were pooped from our long day.  After a trip to the top deck to hopefully see stars and darkness, we found that the ship was still in sight of Manaus and we could see their distant lights.   We welcomed our nice air conditioned cabin and its the comfortable bed and got a really good nights sleep.  Our AM excursion was at 8 o'clock and we neede to arrive in the hall by 7:45.

 

Some of the following photos will give you an idea of the boating chaos in the port of Manaus.  Also some pictures on the Grand Amazon as well as the Sea anchored out and in the sunset glow.

 

 

[cbob3849]

I loved your detailed reviews and pictures of the cruise and experience post cruise.  It gave so much great information for me and others planning on taking this cruise at a later,date. I am eagerly awaiting your final installments.

We will be arriving in Manaus three days before the December 8 cruise to take local tours in the Amazon region.  I had been considering  Aldinei as a guide and your account inspired  me to reach out to him.  Unfortunately, he is booked for that time.  We did book another guide from tours by locals for a trip on the Rio Negro and are asking him to plan our three days, including the most convenient hotel.  I hope he has the same knowledge of wildlife and birds.  Per you suggestion, we will pre book transport from the airport and to the cruise port. 

[TayanaLorna]

8 hours ago, cbob3849 said:

I loved your detailed reviews and pictures of the cruise and experience post cruise.  It gave so much great information for me and others planning on taking this cruise at a later,date. I am eagerly awaiting your final installments.

We will be arriving in Manaus three days before the December 8 cruise to take local tours in the Amazon region.  I had been considering  Aldinei as a guide and your account inspired  me to reach out to him.  Unfortunately, he is booked for that time.  We did book another guide from tours by locals for a trip on the Rio Negro and are asking him to plan our three days, including the most convenient hotel.  I hope he has the same knowledge of wildlife and birds.  Per you suggestion, we will pre book transport from the airport and to the cruise port. 

Glad you enjoyed my stories and our photos.  Still have more days on the river to do and our 2 days in Manaus.  

[downsmead]

Two more pics of the lovely staircase and the dome above 

[TayanaLorna]

Iberostar Grand Amazon Day 2 March 4, 2023

 

 

We had a great night's sleep on our first night aboard this river boat.  Bed was very comfortable and the AC worked great.  The only thing I missed from our Viking stateroom was the heated floors and mirror in the bathroom.  Showering really fogged up the room so we took to leaving the door open while bathing.  The towels never dried but as soon as our room steward found a wet towel, it was replaced with dry ones.

 

So up early to ready for our 7:45 AM excursion.  The big breakfast buffet in the Karup Restaurant did not begin until 7 AM however there was an early riser Continental Breakfast ready on the top deck at the Tucano Grill by 5:30 AM.  We feasted on fruit and baked goods, the bar concocted fresh fruit smoothies, and the coffee was accompanied by a pot of warm milk which was wonderful.  By now we were already anchored in a quiet stretch of the Solimoes River.

 

Geared up with cameras and rain ponchos, wearing long pants and long sleeved shirts thoroughly sprayed with insect repellent, we arrived promptly for our excursion.  We donned Personal Flotation Devices (PFD's) and were called to our waiting skiff by language spoken.  On our first excursion we had 9 English as a first language (US, UK & So Africa) and 8 English as a second language (4 German and 4 Chinese) guests on our skiff.  The skiffs were long flat bottomed open boats which we boarded by walking down a metal staircase to the bow of the skiff and chose our seats.  There were helping hands available for those needing them. 

 

This excursion visited a Family Farm as well as cruised along the back waters or igarapes, creeks off the main Rio Somiloes, to see what we might see in the Janauaca Lake region.  Each skiff took a different track so as no two skiffs would be in the same area or at the farm at the same time.

 

We docked along a wooden pier and walked up a wooden walkway to reach the family farm perched high on a bluff.  Homes were either on high ground as this family farm, on stilts or anchored along the river.  Anchored homes you ask?  Our March visit was well into the rainy season and the river had risen enough for us to be able to motor through channels of flooded forest.  However, within the next three months, the water would rise as much as another 15 feet.  Homes were anchored so they would stay put during the floods.  Everyone whether living in a stilted, anchored or bluff top home, had a boat as that was the only means of transportation in this region.  The stilted homes would soon be waterfront.  We saw some with a dock attached that would be floating in a month or so.  

 

We were warmly greeted by the family and 3 of the 4 dogs at the farm as our guide provided interesting stories about life at the farm.  Manioc is a main staple of the peoples of the Amazon region and this farm was a major producer in the region.  Manioc is a kind of root which is harvested, roasted and ground.  It is made into a breakfast porridge, ground fine to flour for bread, and is tapioca.  Boats come from all over the area to purchase huge sacks of manioc.  Besides this industry, the family grows many fruits, vegetables and herbs as well does fishing.  We saw a small herb garden, cocoa pods, brazil nut pods, corn, acai, beautiful flowers and trees as we wandered around the expansive property.  Jefferson, our guide, did a great job.

 

Once back on the skiff we cruised around the Lake region through creeks and the flooded forests.  We saw many, many birds - more then we were able to successfully photograph, a sloth of which I will include a still shot as well as a video, Caimen, a hilltop community with a school, gas station boats, floating churches and stores, and many different homes.  Seeing the simple household task of laundry hung out to dry, dogs and children playing on the floating homes, fishing boats in the reeds and marveling at how trees would survive the flooding, was amazing.  Jefferson said the trees can survive the flooding because they originally evolved from seaweed.

 

In the ship photo below, our room is the forwardmost stateroom on the third deck - a nice location.  The school is at the top of the photo of the small community depicted below.  The children arrive in a yellow school boat but it was not at the dock.  I included a video of our motoring through a flooded forest to give you a sense of it.

 

It was a great morning excursion and we were eager for more to come.  We were lucky to have only a light shower on the water and no rain at all during our farm visit.

 

[TayanaLorna]

Iberostar Grand Amazon - still Day 2

 

Back on board and hungry but first it was time to attend a lecture on the fruits of the Amazon before lunch in the Tucano Grill.  The talk was very informative and accompanied by an excellent slide show on a large screen.  The first talk was at 11:30 am in Portuguese and the second was at Noon in English.  Jefferson, our guide and of the Expedition Team, gave the talk.  He is not only an amazing knowledgable guide but a superior linguist speaking many languages.  While on our morning expedition he conversed mostly in English but would speak in both German and Chinese for the benefit of those guests.  Of course, he also spoke Portuguese and Spanish as well.

 

Lunch was served in both the Tucano Grill on the top deck and a half hour later a buffet lunch was available in the Karup Restaurant on the bottom deck.  The top deck was delightful and our choice most meals.  We were always out of the sun and the rain as long as it was not windy.  The buffet lunch consisted of hamburgers and sausages on the grill, sandwiches, a big cauldron of a local river fish in a sauce with vegetables kind of like a stew or thick soup, ribs, meats as well as rice, salads, fruit and desserts.  Drinks flowed whenever one asked for a glass.  My go to afternoon drink became a Mojito without the rum.  The mint was so refreshing on a warm humid afternoon

 

By now the ship was on the move.  What I really liked was that the ship anchored for the night at one location and the next mornings excursions were from that spot.  Then the Grand Amazon sailed to the next location where it would anchor for the afternoon and evening excursions and the ship would stay there overnight.  When we sailed in the afternoon, we were so close to shore that we could spot birds and easily see the landscape pass by.   We were so captivated by the afternoon traveling that we forgot to sign up for the Bridge Tour which was conducted each day.

 

From reviews read before we took this trip, travelers reported there was no Internet on board the Grand Amazon.  We were delighted to learn that the ship was experimenting with a new WiFi system.  It was only available on the top deck although occasionally I would hear the ping of an incoming message in our room on Deck 3.  Since we returned home, I read an article about how Elon Musk supplied some Amazon regions with Starlink.  For better (or worse) some remote regions are now connected for the first time.  So we caught up on some dweebing as we watched the world pass by the top deck railings.

 

I include some photos of the ship and as we sail to our next anchorage.  In choosing them, I realize some may need explanation.  The photo with the vertical flowers is actually a stateroom door.  Every stateroom had a photo on the outside of the door.  Neither of us are much for capturing the food we eat.  We pretty much devour as soon as served but I did capture a photo of the buffet in the Karup Restaurant.  The one photo with the Chef is a omlet station with all the choice of fixings.  I tried getting a photo of our room but hard to get it all.  Best photos are on the Iberostar website or guest photos on Trip Advisor.  The Iberostar is single use plastic free.  They do not give you or sell individual plastic water bottles.  They provide a really nice BPA free heavy plastic refillable bottle.  Each floor has a water station from which we can choose still or sparkling water.  Pretty cool.

 

[TayanaLorna]

Iberostar Grand Amazon - Finishing Day 2 - Manaquiri Boat Ride

 

The afternoon excursion choices were Pirhana Fishing or a boat ride through the Manaquiri region.  We chose the boat ride and it was wonderful for bird watching and scenery.  At least 6 of us were interested in birding and Jefferson, our guide, was able to name everything we pointed out.  The driver stopped or slowed considerably whenever there was a sighting.  We saw farms and domestic animals, a pile of harvested West Indian pumpkins and had a major rain storm. 

 

It poured rain and when the bolts of lightening danced vertically from cloud to the water, our launch pulled over to one of the houseboats.  Jefferson spoke with the residents and we were invited to seek shelter.  It was a combination home and store.  Some of us purchased beers and a bottle of 151 Rum was passed around.  They were very kind to allow us respite from the downpour.  We decided that ponchos were the absolute best way to go as our cameras and legs stayed dry.

 

The images I am including here are kind of mixed up with the scenery and houseboat and I cannot figure out how to get them into the order I want.  Ah well.  The one photo below shows the path we took off the main Rio Solimoes where our river boat was anchored.

 

Back on the Grand Amazon, we chose the next days excursions, joined our friends on the top deck for drinks and sunset, and proceeded to a fabulous meal at our reserved table in the Karup Restaurant.  The evenings entertainment was by Piro, an indigenous Tucano, who vocalized what sounded like bird calls, played different sized pan pipes and ended with a wonderful rendition of John Lenon's "Imagine".  On a small ship such as the Grand Amazon, the "Expedition Team" leads excursions, gives lectures, provides entertainment and is generally available to answer questions and provide information about the region.  With only 50 of us aboard, it was nice to have this personal service.

 

[Meander Ingwa]

Love your journal.  I took a small Papua New Guinea trip and one of the guests was an orchid expert.  We got to talking about the Rio Negro and she said she had a trip there during the high rainy season and was thrilled that their boat could get right in to the top of the trees where many rare and elusive orchid species grow.

[TayanaLorna]

23 minutes ago, Meander Ingwa said:

Love your journal.  I took a small Papua New Guinea trip and one of the guests was an orchid expert.  We got to talking about the Rio Negro and she said she had a trip there during the high rainy season and was thrilled that their boat could get right in to the top of the trees where many rare and elusive orchid species grow.

Thank you.  It would been amazing to be there during high water.  The river was up maybe 10-12 feet when we were there.  We were very happy to be able to motor through the magical flooded forests that visitors in their winter to fall season miss but all the Toucans and parrots were to high to see well. 

[TayanaLorna]

Iberostar Grand Amazon Day 3 - Manacapuru Region

 

This morning we had a choice of a 5:30 AM sunrise excursion and two 8:00 AM excursions - one was a hike through the Manacapuru region and the other was a boat ride through same area.  We passed on the sunrise trip and Ray chose the hike.  We had the early continental breakfast and headed down to the theatre to gear up.

 

As the groups were leaving, I had a chance to photograph the launch boats.  On the way they passed by some dog guarded anchored houses, a very nice home up on what was currently high ground (but check out the dock ready to float in front of it), caimen, birds and more birds and beautiful scenery.  The hike was truly though a dense rainforest with barely a trail.  Good thing Jefferson knew where he was going.  This was the only time when mosquitoe repellent was required as they were swarming all over those without it on.   As before, Jefferson was an excellent guide.

 

Back on board there was a lecture on The People & Culture of the Region at noon time followed by a buffet lunch at the top deck Tucano Grill or in the Karup Restaurant.  We like to dine outside watching the river go by and once again had a tasty meal.  Many of the Brazilians ate outside also pushing several tables together making a noisy bunch.  That afternoon a band played on the top deck with many of the guests dancing.  The ladies came to our table inviting us to join their dancing so Siddhia and I did.  Piro played guitar and sang in the band, Jefferson played fiddle and there was a drummer.  I can't say they were fantastic but it was certainly fun joining in with the partying.  There was one child on board - a boy of 10 years or so.  He had the pool to himself most of the time and loved it.

 

We had another excursion at 4 PM that afternoon but I will leave you with these pictures first.

 

 

 

Edited May 30, 2023 by TayanaLorna

[TayanaLorna]

Iberostar Grand Amazon - Day 2 - Janauari Lake Region

 

The afternoon's scenic cruising brought our river boat to our final anchorage in the Janauari Lake Region where we would have our next excursion.  There was only one choice of excursion at 4 pm and we were split into boats based on our language.  We would have a scenic ride through the flooded forests, a stop at a houseboat bar/restaurant selling local crafts, and have a walk to see the Victoria Regina giant lily pads.

 

When we entered the narrow channel under a canopy of interlacing tree branches, it was a magical experience and a hush fell over the folks on launch.  We were mesmerized by the calm reflective waters, the colorful scattering of fallen tree blossoms and the sound of birdcalls.  Our boat would reach a point where we were positive this would be the turn around point, but we kept going through the grasses sometimes having to rock a bit to dislodge a log under the hull.  Jefferson pointed out the dark tree trunks rising out of the water telling us the darkened line was the high water mark.  Just 2 or 3 months earlier this creek was impassable and forest floor.  Two or 3 months in the future, the water would rise so high that visitors would see the birds at the tops of the trees.  When asked how the trees survived several months submerged in the water, we learned that they were evolved from seaweed.   Amazing.  We did see monkeys several times and captured a pretty good photo of a pair.  We passed a huge tree fallen in a windstorm and observed the strangler vines trailing from the trees to the water.

 

Exiting the narrow creeks, we arrived at our "land" stop at the Paraiso Verde Restaurant near Lago Janauari where we checked out the local crafts and took the raised walkway to see the lake filled with lilly pads.  I had read the suggestion that when purchasing locally made items to support the locals where they live further up the river rather then at the Manaus market.  We did just that buying several souvenirs and gifts.

 

It was nearing sunset by the time we finished our shopping and walk, and we were treated to a colorful sunset during our ride back to the Grand Amazon.   We made it back in time to have a shower and drinks on the top deck before attending the Captain's Gala Farewell Dinner at 7:30 PM. Dinner was followed by colorful dance performances in the Theatre.  We were greeted at the restaurant entrance by the captain, and the chef had prepared a special seafood appetizer which was delicious.  We had a sumptous spread of food and once again were able to sample the river fish Tambaqui and Arapaima (pirarucu) which were delicious.  Dessert consisted of the usual cake and sweets offerings plus an ice cream bar with several choices of toppings.  Yum! 

 

It was our third night on board and we couldn't believe that early the next day we would be back in Manaus.  We wished we had reserved a week long trip like our South African friends instead of the 3 nights.  Monday would be an early morning with the Grand Amazon passing through the Meeting of the Waters around 6 am and returning to dock around 8 o'clock.  Our on river adventures were not quite over as we had signed on for another excursion conducted by Piro.  Once we reached town, the ship would hold our bags while we boarded a fast boat to take us up the Rio Negro for the morning.  So stay tuned, more to come.

 

I wish we had taken more still pix of the dancers costumes as I see the videos I posted for earlier events are not playing too well.

 

[TayanaLorna]

March 6, 2023 - Manaus - Pink Dolphins

 

While on board the Iberostar, we learned that one fellow from the Expedition Team led excursions on the ship's turn around days in Manaus.  (The Grand Amazon does a 3 night trip up the Rio Solimoes and then returns to Manaus to board guests for a 4 night trip up the Rio Negro - or one could do 7 nights also.)  It was quite reasonable at $50 per person so we signed up.  Our original plan was to take a taxi to our hotel and hang out there until our room was ready.  So we changed our taxi pick up time and boarded a fast boat right next to where we were docked.  What a better way to spend the morning.

 

It took about an hour to motor up the Rio Negro passing under the only bridge we saw so far on the Amazon.  The Rio Negro is a black water river and does not have the muddy silty look of the Rio Solimoes which is the main branch of the Amazon up from Manaus.  We watched the shoreline speed by seeing some nice homes, beaches and high bluffs which looked like red sand or mud.

 

The Boto (dolphin) facility was painted really cute, had rest rooms and changing facilities and two staircases for descending into the water surrounded by an obervation deck.  The dolphins are not in captivity but trained to come into the open shelter for fish.  Being feeding opportunists, they readily came in close when the trainer threw fish out in the river.  They were free to leave whenever they wished but were accustomed to being touched by and around people.  We saw dolphins several times when we were on our launch excursions from the Grand Amazon but they only briefly surfaced.  It was a treat to see them up close and reaching up for their fish.  Two different dolphins came to visit and feed.  The dolphins are both grey and pink colored.  We learned that the pink color came from scraping their skin - not an injury but a wearing away of the a layer.

 

In the back of the facility building was a pen where one could take a stick rod with food attached to a line to entice the Tambaqui (which they referred to as cod) to the surface.  It was a huge strong fish.

 

I included a photo below of Piro's shirt advertising his tour.  He is on Instagram.  Don't know if he has a website.  Have some shots the bridge and some river scenes as well as the pink dolphins.  It was an excellent excursion and the dolphins were only half of it.

 

[TayanaLorna]

March 6, 2023 - Indigenous Tucano Village

 

We boarded our fast boat once again and motored to part two of the tour - the Indigenous Tucano Village.  We docked at a pier jutting out from the sand and walked up to their ceremonial building.  At the far end of the beach we could see a wooden staircase switching back and forth to a very high bluff where I assumed the tribe lived - a place we would not be able to visit.

 

As we reached the ceremonial building, the tribal chief and the medicine man greeted us at the entrance.  Since it was a "tourist" event, we were invited to take photos with them.  Inside the tent, we were directed to seating on low benches running along both walls. 

 

Prior to our visit, Piro explained that the Tucano tribes felt the government was doing nothing for them as far as work and education and that they were going to leave the area to return to their ancestral lands.  This particular maloca (tribal group) was asked to stay in order to provide cultural education and displays to visitors.  Once we were all seated, an elder spoke and Piro translated first for the Portuguese speaking group and then explained the same using less words to the English speakers.  We learned that the structure we were seated within was typical for inter-tribal gatherings. Members would perform traditional ceremonial and celebratory dances for us.  Each Tucano tribe owned a set of panpipe instruments that were considered sacred and used during their gatherings.  I don't recall the reason for each dance but remember that one was in celebration of a successful fishing expedition and one was for a good harverst or a successful gathering of the fruits and vegetables that they eat.  Other gathering occasions are for marriages, naming of a child, trading of goods or an initiation ceremony for young boys.  We also learned that they do not inter-marry in their tribal group as they consider themselves all brothers and sisters.  Individuals belong to their father's group but must marry partners from other groups who speak other languages.  The father's language is primary but the entire maloca learns the new woman's language as well.

 

First some of the men performed a circle dance playing the long pipes while those along the outskirts drummed a beat by pounding pipes on the ground.  Women joined in some of the skits and for other dances family groups carrying the youngest children performed.   The boys joined the elder men for one dance and even the youngest of children took a part by drumming while sitting on the sidelines.  It was very colorful and certainly enjoyable experience.  At the end we were invited to dance with the tribe and each member - man, woman & child - extended a hand to someone sitting along the benches.  I was honored to have the medicine man choose me.  He was small, wirey and strong and I barely kept up with him.

 

Following the dancing, the Tucanos laid out what is their typical meal for us to sample if we wished.  It consisted of fruits, raw sugar cane, smoked fish, manioc, ants (dead) and catepillars (live).  The medicine man performed healing prayers over individual guests and there was a line waiting their turn.  Some of the women did face painting.  Then we gathered for group photos which Piro said he would post on his Instagram (which we don't use) and we were able to browse and purchase their crafts.  Ray bought a nifty blow dart gun and I bought beads and jewelry.   

 

Returning to Manaus was a much quicker trip as we were traveling with the current of the Amazon River.  Back on the Grand Amazon, we gathered our lugage and had a short wait until our taxi arrived.  We were so happy that he was able to pull right up to the door of the ship as the dock was rather commercial with trucks off and on loading goods.  We used Victor Transfer Tours and they were excellent in all aspects of reserving, confirming, timeliness and politeness.  There was a small extra fee charged for them to come into the port but was well worth it. 

 

We arrived at the Manaus Quality Hotel before the 2 pm check in time and had a short wait until our rooms were ready.  The lobby was lovely and our room was quite large with a Queen sized bed, a long desk separating the sleeping and sitting area with the sofa, a large wardrobe and shelf area with a refrigerator.  It had a nice bathroom with a glass door walk in shower.  So we unpacked, rested, caught up on some messages and Internet and showered before dinner.

 

At the hotel front desk we discussed dinner options.  A restaurant getting great reviews - Tierra Y Mar - was just diagonally across the street and there was a Korean restaurant not too far a walking distance which I wanted to try.  That is a kind of food we never get in P.R.  But reception said to get across the street to the seafood restaurant we needed to walk a couple blocks up the road to a pedestrian overpass walkway and then back down the street to the restaurant.  He also strongly advised against walking anywhere around there after dark.  So I looked at the road with 4 lanes of non-stop busy traffic all going one way with no traffic lights or crosswalks, and decided to not take the chance trying to across the street.  I couldn't see the pedestrian overpass it was that far up the road and didn't like the looks of barely a sidewalk across the street to walk back on.   Instead we waited until the hotel restaurant opened at 7 PM and had a surprisingly good dinner there.  It was very economical with a complete meal costing around $10.  As alcohol goes, however, the cost of a bottle of wine was equal to 2 dinners.  We ended eating here both nights feasting on the Tambaqui and Pirarucu fish that we would most likely never get again.  The second night there was a soup bar where we could help ourselves while we waited for our dinners and it was excellent.

 

It was another really good day in Amazonia.

 

 

 

 

Edited June 3, 2023 by TayanaLorna
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[cbob3849]

Great descriptions and great pictures.  Thanks again.   We booked the Quality inn for three nights in December ahead of the December 8 Viking tour from Manaus. Have arranged  guided tours for all three days  which will probably take up most of  our time.  Glad to hear that the hotel restaurant is good.  

[TayanaLorna]

Manaus Quality Hotel - March 6 & 7, 2023

 

Based on a reader's interest in the Quality Hotel, I will give some background and a review of our experience.  As I mentioned, we were happy with the layout, spaciousness and cleanliness of our room and the hotel staff, as well as customer service at the reception desk were great.  There was always someone who spoke very good English whether at the front desk or in the restaurant. 

 

The breakfast spread was extensive with many choices.  The coffee was served the same way as on the Grand Amazon with a warm pot of milk which I loved.  There were fruits, juices, cereals both hot and cold, sausages, meats, eggs, quiche, baked goods, pancakes and french toast.  Many items kind of had a unique Portuguese twist which was fun.   It was the only place we found manioc edible - it was made into a hot cereal.  Breakfast was included in the cost of our room.  At mid-day there was another huge spread for lunch but not included.  Dinner was served also and we enjoyed our two nights although there were probably much better restaurants in Manaus.  There was a small bar just outside the restaurant entrance which was near to reception.  It was not a dedicated bar in its own space where people would hang out.

 

Although the hotel was along a busy road, we did not notice any traffic noise.  The location was convenient for getting to the airport as well as for getting picked up for a tour.  There was a big Mall about a 5 minute walk up the road but we never went there.  It was an okay stop over for 2 nights while we went on a city tour, however, it was not really a place for self-exploration or walking around.

 

I did a lot of research prior to booking and my choice came down to the Manaus Intercity, which Viking was using for their pre or post extensions, and the Quality Hotel.  I chose the Quality for its proximity to the Tierra y Mar restaurant across the street which we never got to and for the size and layout of the room with a nice seating area.  The pricing between the two was similar.  There were many hotels on Trip Advisor in the same price range with quite a few much cheaper.  I felt that we didn't need to spend more. 

 

Where we really wanted to stay was the Villa Amazonia Hotel in an historic building and location near the Opera House square with a top rated restaurant.  However the cost per night was $250 vs $78 per night at the Quality Hotel and economics won.  Our South Africa friends who we met on the Iberostar cruise had stayed at the Juma Opera Hotel in the same area as the Villa Amazonia and loved it.  Pricing is the same.  They also said walking around the square in the evening was very safe.  Surrounding the square were several restaurants and many served at tables outdoors.  If cost is not an issue, staying in this area would be a much better cultural experience with the added bonus of self-exploration during the daytime.

 

We did, however, have an issue at the Quality Hotel during our stay.  I do not give the hotel a bad review because of it but I have a recommendation for future travelers.  Here's what happened.  The first night the toilet in our bathroom stopped flushing.  For the middle of the night use, if its yellow, let it mellow is fine.  However, for the morning...  well, you get the picture.  So at 5:30 AM, I went down to use the public rest rooms in the lobby and then found the night desk person and told him about our room issue.  He said they could not get anyone to look at the toilet until later in the day but offered to give us another room.  First he found a room on the 17th Floor but after looking further saw one available on our same 4th floor.  It would have been nice being on a higher floor but certainly much more convenient to just drag our stuff down the hall rather then having to use the elevator.  We didn't have to tightly repack everything that way.  The room was smaller but the same layout.  It had twin beds instead of a Queen which was okay for a night.  However the towels were frayed, the view out the window was dismal and things like the light next to the bed was broken and only one out of the two bathroom lights worked.  The last thing we wanted to do is have to move again.  So oh well - we were going to be out most of the day touring anyways.

 

The hotel was did not help us move but were quick in solving the new room problem.  We told them about the issues with the new room but chose to stay in it.  As it turned out, they did not charge us for all the beer and bottled water we drank from the room refrigerator.  Unlike the Viking and Iberostar ships, it was not included.

 

My recommendation is to get a room on a higher floor.  In reading all the Trip Advisor reviews, writers many times said get a room on a higher floor while those who had a lower floor rooms gave poor reviews.  We reserved a Standard Queen Room through hotels.com on Trip Advisor and were on the 4th floor.  We could have reserved a Superior Queen Room which were situated on Floor 7 and higher.  The rooms all looked the same other then the higher floors having better views.  The Superior Rooms cost more and I think they may get better maintenance and attention by the hotel.  So, I would recommend reserving a Superior Room and then try to get a higher floor for the city views.  I wish we had done so.

 

As far as hotels near the Airport, friends who were staying in Manaus only one night and flying out early stayed at the Ibis Airport Hotel and liked it fine.  They disembarked from the Viking Sea, had an Historic City Tour that day and then stayed overnight near the airport.

 

No Hotel photos here.  Trip Advisor displays more hotel photos then you could ever want to see.

[TayanaLorna]

15 hours ago, cbob3849 said:

Great descriptions and great pictures.  Thanks again.   We booked the Quality inn for three nights in December ahead of the December 8 Viking tour from Manaus. Have arranged  guided tours for all three days  which will probably take up most of  our time.  Glad to hear that the hotel restaurant is good.  

I did a review of the Quality Hotel if you are interested.  Recommend getting a Superior Room not a Standard Room and one on a higher floor.

[LindaS272]

@TayanaLornaOne thing that has kept us from doing this Viking Amazon itinerary is the heat. What was it like for you?

[cbob3849]

1 hour ago, TayanaLorna said:

I did a review of the Quality Hotel if you are interested.  Recommend getting a Superior Room not a Standard Room and one on a higher floor.

We took your recommendation, got superior rooms.  Thought that you might be interested, we could not use Al as our guide because he was leading a Roads Scholar group,  We will do a Lake Janauari trip, a  Negro river trip and a morning trip to the Opera House, market, shopping and other points not covered by viking before being dropped off at the ship,  Not as comprehensive as what you did, but should be fun.  We are really looking forward to it. 

[TayanaLorna]

17 hours ago, LindaS272 said:

@TayanaLornaOne thing that has kept us from doing this Viking Amazon itinerary is the heat. What was it like for you?

Linda,  For me the worst part were the days between Barbados and the mouth of the Amazon - a sea day, French Guiana, sea day.  The humidity was positively dripping - the decks were always wet, moisture was dripping down the windows, and it looked like rain was streaming down the veranda partitions.  The Caribbean islands always had a breeze so it was warm and comfortable.  Once on the Amazon, the dripping stopped.  I think the lack of salt laden air reduced the clinging moisture effect.  Humidity yes.  Temperatures were not that bad - 80's maybe - but combine that with humidity, you get the "feels like" higher temperature.  On the ship we always had the escape to AC.  Once near the equator it was not comfortable to me eating outside other then early morning breakfast.  Walking through the main pool area became so unbearably hot that we would use the forward elevators to get to the Explorers Lounge.

 

As far as excursions, French Guiana was self exploration, warm and humid but as we were on our own and could go at our own pace, it was fine.  Having a cloudy sky helped.  Santarem included tour buses were not air conditioned but a friend who is very heat intolerant said it was not bad for the city tour.  I took the Maica Lake/Pirhana Fishing boat tour and the temps were delightful.  We could get out of the sun under a canopy and there was a breeze.  My DH took the Tapajos Forest hike and said temps were not bad.  He wore long pants and sleeves in case of bugs too.  In Parintins, the tender ride and walk to convention center was short and the Boi Bumba included dance show was in AC.  In Manaus, most of the optional excursions are boat based and cooler and the city was cloudy most of the time and not bad and there was AC in buses.  I was concerned that it would be most steamy further up on the river boat we took and was delightfully surprised it was not.  The big difference between the Viking Sea and the Iberostar Grand Amazon was the Grand Amazon had a top deck that was entirely open but 3/4's of it was covered.  There was always a breeze and you could be in the shade.  We spent most days up there.  I discovered why we rarely use decks 8 and 9 on Viking ships - there is no shade and its freaking hot in the sun.  Even most of the dining on the Aquavit Terrace is in the sun.

 

I hope i haven't scared you away from the Amazon whether with Viking and/or a river boat.  The humidity was worse then I expected but the temperatures were not.  There was always AC to escape to and one can choose excursions according to ones tolerance.  And with Vikings big windows, one can watch the scenery pass by in the comfort of AC.

 

 

[TayanaLorna]

March 8, 2023 - Manaus Historic City Tour

 

We awoke to a rainy morning, the first continuous rain of the trip.  We had a great relaxing breakfast at the buffet having planned an afternoon excursion for a change.  Ray & I chose to just hang out at the hotel during the morning while our friends went to the Brazilian Army Zoo ignoring the poor reviews received from Viking guests for this portion of the Included excursion.  They wanted to see the monkeys, big cats and other Amazon animals and birds up close and take photos from which she would paint.  They loved it so guess it depends on how you feel about zoos.  The hotel arranged for a taxi to get there but, not speaking Portuguese or able to call for an Uber in the language, they did not know how to get back to the hotel.  Fortunately a woman at the entrance gate called a car to transport them.

 

We reserved our city tour on Trip Advisor through Viator before we left home.  The description indicated it was a group tour and there could be up to 12 participants.  We were delighted when our guide arrived with his personal vehicle to pick up just our group of 4.  We chose the 1 pm tour and were very happy the rain had stopped by then.  We drove by of several historic buildings - the Relogio Municipal (clock), Customs House, Cathedral of Our Lady of Conception, and down a street with colorful nicely rennovated buildings.  As there was just our group, we could ask our guide to pull over so we could get out for photos or just a quick look around. 

 

One of our main stops was at Largo de Sao Sebastiao (St. Sebastian Plaza) surrounded by the Amazon Palace of Justice, the St. Sebastian Church and the Teatro Amazonia (Amazon Opera House Theatre).  Tickets to the Opera House were included but we had only a limited amount of time actually inside the theatre due to a private event soon to start.  This was one complaint I had of the tour - our guide should have known about the event and timed our stop at this location differently.  However, we had time to take pictures and were also able to tour the reception room, see the costumes display and get inside of one of the upper boxes.  IAfterwards we walked around the plaza for a bit.  In the center of the Plaza is a Monument dedicated to trade routes with the continents of America, Asia, Africa and Europe.  The pavement of the Plaza is very interesting and quite vertiginous with its wavy pattern representing the meeting of the waters.

 

Our next stop was the Palacio Rio Negro, a palatial 19th Century rubber barons estate featuring period decor, historical exhibits and gardens.  We had an inside tour of this gorgeous home and learned about the history of its occupants.  It was originally occupied by the family and then by different Governors.  The period furniture was a mix of both eras.  We were surprised to learn that the home was originally situated on the water with its own dock.

 

Our final stop was at the Mercado Municipal Adolpho Lisboa - the municipal market filled with all sorts of fish, fruits, vegetables, dry goods, medicinals, local goods, souvenirs and restaurants.  The building was designed by Gustave Eiffel, the French Civil Engineer who designed the Eiffel Tower.  Gorgeous ironwork.  Our guide advised us to watch our shoulder bags and cameras and kept a good eye on us and our surroundings. 

 

In one shop Ray asked if they had a product for rash and itching.  The owner recommended a certain soap that we purchased.  Our guide, Jefferson, from the Iberostar, often times discussed certain plants, trees, leaves etc with different healing powers.  One regret once home was not paying more attention to this information, writing it down and asking questions.  We loved the soap and wished we had purchased more of these home remedies when in Manaus.

 

 

We had our final dinner at the hotel once again.  Before dinner we met a fellow at the bar.  He was from Italy but had been in Brazil for ten years working in the soybean industry.  It was an interesting conversation and the only politics we heard while in Brazil.  None of our guides mentioned anything political nor breached the subject of the deforestation of the Amazon and the potential consequences.  This fellow was very pro Bolsonaro, believed in developing the Amazon and very critical of the Indigenous tribes.   He was also very critical of foreign nations "throwing" thousands of dollars to Brazil to save the rainforest.  We kept our opinions to ourselves as best to do when traveling.

 

Was Manaus as scary as I thought or were lead to believe?  No.  I was most worried about being in the Port on our own but it seemed people looked out for us.  Would I venture from the port on foot independently?  Probably not.  We felt comfortable because we pre arranged most everything.  We are in the 70 year old age range.  If I was 50 I would probably have done it differently.

 

Victor Transfer Tours did such a good job picking us up at the port that we engaged the same driver to take us to the airport the next morning.  He kept close contact with us through WhatsApp and even sent us a message that he arrived early as the traffic that morning was quite heavy.  We were done with another wonderful breakfast, packed and almost ready to go. 

 

We arrived at the airport way early about 3 hours before our flight but better then rushing.  The GOL counter was not even open yet and the airport was empty at 10 am.  Even though we purchased tickets through the American Airlines website on an AA/GOL codeshare flight, check in was with GOL as they were the operating carrier.  Luggage drop off once open was easy, got boarding passes and proceeded to Security which wasn't quite open yet either.  The gates were empty but for our flight and it was a breeze boarding.  Unable to get seat assignments until 48 hours before the flight, I was able to use the GOL website and reserved 2 seats 8D and 8F while we were at the hotel.  We were fortunate that the center seat was not booked. 

 

Our flight was delayed taking off by 30 minutes reducing our connection time in Miami from 1 hour 50 minutes to 1 hour 20 minutes.  American had already messed up our 3 hour 15 minute connection by changing the time of our flight to San Juan.  Miami Airport was insane.  The fellow at Mobile Passport took about 5 minutes with each person and then did not call the next person for 10 minutes.  They finally let us go through the TSA line.  Usually Mobile Passport for us is quick as TSA.  After we collected our baggage, we found the security line was so long that the connecting flight baggage drop off point was way way up the security line.  Needless to say we missed our flight and it was the last to SJU that evening.  American put us on the 6:30 AM flight on stand by the next day and there were only 2 people ahead of us.  So what to do?  Sleep on the floor in the airport?  Not!  We got a shared room with our friends (double/double) at the airport hotel splitting the exorbitant cost and got some food and wine at Margaritaville the only place open by the hotel.  We managed about 6 hours of sleep and a shower at the hotel.  It was easy peasy getting to our gate at 5 in the morning as the place was empty.  We all got on the flight with our friends being the last to board - whew.

 

Overall, other then the GOL delay, the flight was great.  We were served 2 meals, watched movies, the plane was a new 737 MAX 8 and economy was comfortable for us.  Took less then 6 hours from Manaus to Miami vs flying 4 hours in the opposite direction to get to Sao Paulo, Rio or Brazilia to take a 10-12 hour connecting flight to the States.  A no brainer for us.  I had been watching this GOL flight on Flightaware for months and it was always on time or early to Miami.  Ah well, at least it was on the way home and I had a contingency plan with our dog/house watcher.  So beware of connecting times if you fly into Miami.

 

The Amazon & Caribbean was truly a great adventure.  Would I have been satisfied with only the Viking portion?  Probably not.  I did a lot of reading and research prior and knew that I wanted to get into the back waters of the Amazon and that none of the Viking excursions provided that nor was there the time to do it aboard Viking.  Were the 3 stops along the Amazon on Viking worthwhile.  Yes!!

 

So if your are planning your own trip on the Amazon, thoroughly enjoy yours.

 

And now for final photographs...

 

[Messybill]

1. Thank you TayanaLorna,  MillyBess and I are very grateful for your detailed account of this trip. We like to do as much pre-planning as possible and this is a treasure trove of information for that process.

[TayanaLorna]

13 hours ago, Messybill said:

1. Thank you TayanaLorna,  MillyBess and I are very grateful for your detailed account of this trip. We like to do as much pre-planning as possible and this is a treasure trove of information for that process.

You are very welcome.  Glad my ramblings are useful to someone.  I love reading reports about places we want to travel and actually chose our next cruise based on others experiences.