Antarctica & Cape to Cape on Cloud 2-21-24

[Port Power]

I’m watching “Whales with Steven Backshall”, an excellent series.  As much as we saw, and see, so many whales through Antarctica and South Georgia, this is even closer.  A reminder of my expedition.  I am enjoying following your journey.  Memories!

[highplanesdrifters]

Just now, Port Power said:

I’m watching “Whales with Steven Backshall”, an excellent series.  As much as we saw, and see, so many whales through Antarctica and South Georgia, this is even closer.  A reminder of my expedition.  I am enjoying following your journey.  Memories!

 

Thanks PP. I too enjoy reliving and traveling vicariously with others on Cruise Critic. Will check out the whales series when we return home.

 

In the meantime we had bow surfers both coming and going to Port Stanley.   The small, Commersons Dolphin, only 5 feet long.  It has a rather limited range. South Georgia, Falklands, and the very tip of South America. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[highplanesdrifters]

Suppose they gave an Orca party and everyone came. Captian stopped the ship and turned it around.  The Orcas stuck with us for 45 minutes plus. It gave the nappers plenty of time to suit up and get outside.  Approximately 10 orcas entertained us according to onboard expert Dan Olsen.  Lots of action close to the ship with the added treat of Albatros circle around them.  Very special.

 

 

 

Edited March 6 by highplanesdrifters

[highplanesdrifters]

The Expedition Team.

Quite the lineup!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[highplanesdrifters]

1 hour ago, highplanesdrifters said:

The trip reports to Devils nose from friends was a bit negative.  Some turned back halfway through. Upon arrival others found the site closed due to bird stress. I hope some had a positive experience.  If so, please share.

 

 

We've had a few reports from folks who got to Devils nose early and really enjoyed it.  The soaring of Albatros and feeding of chicks was quite a good show.

[jpalbny]

A few familiar faces! Claudia was on our first Antarctica trip in 2009 (as was Victoria). Claudia was also on board Silver Explorer a few years later, when it was hit by a rogue wave high enough to knock a window out of the bridge. Details available elsewhere (it was 2013).

[highplanesdrifters]

Port Stanley, Falklands 

 

We did the Highlights of Stanley tour.   It started out a bit slow and we regretted our decision. As the trip progressed Wendy our guide really began to shine.

 

The Charming Wendy first came to Stanley in the 80's as a Midwife. She followed her boyfriend who was a pilot.  Marriage soon followed.  It took 24 days roundtrip to travel there, so dating was a challenge. 😀 Travel here is still a challenge.  Flights are often delayed for days, a week is not uncommon. There is currently no milk in the stores, among other staples. The supply ship has been delayed for over a week.  Internet service is a monopoly, slow, and expensive.  Although Starlink covers the area it is illegal to use.  In spite of all this the people are lovely.

 

Wendy

 

This ship was the first stop, not exactly a highlight.

 

 

The totem was the second. Starting to understand our concerns?

 

 

The Peat Bogs.  Things are starting to pick up now. 😃  Until recently all houses were heated with peat. Each family was given a hundred yards and the men folk went out on Sundays to cut it, then stored it in the peat shed.

 

 

We are now moving into the 'well that's really interesting' phase.  Local Mike Butcher collected all these bones and staged them.  

 

 

Minke Whale

 

 

Sperm whale

 

 

War memorial

 

 

 

Falkland Museum

It had so much to offer.  Wish we had more time.

 

Imagine one of these guys taking a bite!

 

 

 

A stroll through the Charming town.  Hard to believe we are in the middle of the South Atlantic.

 

 

I suspect this will be the next setting for the new BBC detective show. Jimmy Perez  moved to Falklands. 

 

 

The famous Whale Bone Arch.

 

 

Although we didn't have time for the pub or fish and chips, all very enjoyable. So much history.

 

 

 

 

[WesW]

Thanks for sharing your Stanley and Wendy's backstory with us; loved visiting Stanley and other Falkland Islands last March.

 

And thanks for sharing snaps of your Expedition Team. Know Schalk Botha arrives as EL from Walvis Bay to Male, then Marieka Egan is EL (JP, believe she will be the EL for Chris and your Kimberley voyage).  Hillman Perman will also arrive in Walvis Bay as senior Expedition Program Manager--did sail with Leslin and Miguel on last year's C2C. 

 

Hope Matt and Wei (enjoyed them on last year's C2C and on to the Seychelles) are staying on once you arrive in WB.  See now you have Captain Freddie; is your Hotel Director Michelle Roberts?

 

Freddie, Schalk, and Michelle as well as Conrad (hosting WB to Port Elizabeth) are all from South Africa--so we should have first hand look at the ports we are visiting on WB to PE and then the Grand Indian Ocean voyage.

 

Edited March 6 by WesW

[highplanesdrifters]

Just now, jpalbny said:

A few familiar faces! Claudia was on our first Antarctica trip in 2009 (as was Victoria). Claudia was also on board Silver Explorer a few years later, when it was hit by a rogue wave high enough to knock a window out of the bridge. Details available elsewhere (it was 2013).

 

Claudia has been lovely.  Very responsive.  Oh my...the rogue wave.  Must get some details on that one.  

[caradara]

We traveled twice with Claudia as well.  Once to Antarctica with another line and then with SS.  She was the climatologist in those years.  Lovely lady.

[highplanesdrifters]

Just now, WesW said:

Thanks for sharing your Stanley and Wendy's backstory with us; loved visiting Stanley and other Falkland Islands last March.

 

And thanks for sharing snaps of your Expedition Team. Know Schalk Botha arrives as EL from Walvis Bay to Male, then Marieka Egan is EL (JP, believe she will be the EL for Chris and your Kimberley voyage).  Hillman Perman will also arrive in Walvis Bay as senior Expedition Program Manager--did sail with Leslin and Miguel on last year's C2C. 

 

Hope Matt and Wei (enjoyed them on last year's C2C and on to the Seychelles) are staying on once you arrive in WB.  See now you have Captain Freddie; is your Hotel Director Michelle Roberts?

 

Freddie, Schalk, and Michelle as well as Conrad (hosting WB to Port Elizabeth) are all from South Africa--so we should have first hand look at the ports we are visiting on WB to PE and then the Grand Indian Ocean voyage.

 

 

Thanks Wes!  You are too kind.

 

There is a large South African contingent on board.  Captain Freddie seems quite nice, although I don't really know him.  Michelle Roberts is the HD.  She has been fantastic to work with and get to know.

 

Wei leaves at WB. Had dinner with Matt last night, forgot to ask. I'm pretty sure he departs also.  Dan Olsen joined us.  Big fun was had.  JMartCo procured a bottle of Falkland Gin made with Scurvy plant. Oh yum.  Right up there with Blue Turtle. Hijinks ensued.

 

 

 

 

And @FauxNom EtAl is in the house!  I'm going to need a vacation. 

 

[highplanesdrifters]

Just now, caradara said:

We traveled twice with Claudia as well.  Once to Antarctica with another line and then with SS.  She was the climatologist in those years.  Lovely lady.

 

I must try and grab a dinner. 

[drron29]

You now are officially on my list of those who make me jealous. I have for many years wanted to see orcas in the wild but everywhere I go am told they were here yesterday or you get a report that they turned up the next day.

The worst was taking an Orca spotting cruise from Vancouver Island. i was told as we boarded it was a certainty that day as a pod of 30 was headed our way from the South. Get out into clear water and our driver says the orcas are headed our way and will continue to head north but there are several humpbacks just north of here so who votes for seeing the humpbacks and who wants us to head south. I was outvoted. Naturally the orcas turned south east and we never saw them.

[highplanesdrifters]

Just now, drron29 said:

You now are officially on my list of those who make me jealous. I have for many years wanted to see orcas in the wild but everywhere I go am told they were here yesterday or you get a report that they turned up the next day.

The worst was taking an Orca spotting cruise from Vancouver Island. i was told as we boarded it was a certainty that day as a pod of 30 was headed our way from the South. Get out into clear water and our driver says the orcas are headed our way and will continue to head north but there are several humpbacks just north of here so who votes for seeing the humpbacks and who wants us to head south. I was outvoted. Naturally the orcas turned south east and we never saw them.

 

 

Don't give up drron!!!  This was the first time I have seen Orcas.  Shocking given all the Polar, sea travel, and whale watching we've done. I've thought of myself as the Orca jinx. If I can break the spell, so can you!

[highplanesdrifters]

@drron29

Your day will come!

 

Ok, twist my arm, one more.  Shows you how close the were to the ship. People with proper cameras got some amazing shots.

 

 

 

 

[highplanesdrifters]

The Overcrowded Zodiac problem.

 

Before I get in to the negative, a pause for the positive.   Service Onboard has been 6* Aman quality.  Food has been excellent with rarely a miss.  No ask too small.  Hats off to Michelle HD, and Head Chef.

 

The Zodiac problem.

 

The new bladder bench in the smaller zodiacs eliminate approximately 12-24 inches of seating room.  It also forces the passengers seated toward the center of the zodiac. If there are 8 in the zodiac it's acceptable bit not ideal.  When overcrowded with 10 it is impossible to move, much less enjoy a 45-90 minute zodiac cruise. If one is in the back you find yourself uncomfortably close the the equator of the driver...if you know what I mean, wink wink.  On the other side you are banged in the head by the driver steering. It's hard for the driver to maneuver creating a safety problem.

 

FYI we had discussions about the zociac problems with previous EL Michael, HD Michelle, and sent 2 letters to Muckerman and guest relations.

 

  I've just spoken to EL Claudia and she assures me 8 passengers is her policy on the small zodiacs unless there is an special circumstance. Hopefully this will be the case on this leg of the cruise, otherwise mutineers ready at all stations.😃

 

You can see the bladder bench in the zodiac on the left.

 

 

Another view.

 

 

Equator view, and this is in a zodiac with 8.  Imagine 10!  Even Expedition team members are unhappy with these zodiacs. Perhaps that is stating the obvious.  The benches are built in, so cannot be removed. Just another thing to fix commented one.

 

 

Limited room without the driver. 

 

 

 

Zodiac with 10.  And the absolutely fabulous Victoria.

 

 

Zodiac with 8. You can even turn and take a picture!

 

 

Our group has no problem with a crowded zodiac on shore runs. It is the overcrowding on cruises that is unacceptable. 

 

So why post on Cruise Crittic?  It's a challenge when there are simple solutions and one feels you are not heard.   Communicate and raise awareness any way you can.

 

 

 

[FauxNom]

 

 

On 3/5/2024 at 3:07 AM, highplanesdrifters said:

trip reports to Devils nose from friends was a bit negative.  Some turned back halfway through. Upon arrival others found the site closed due to bird stress. I hope some had a positive experience.  If so, please shar

I very much enjoyed the hike to devils nose; felt like I was roaming the desolate moors in some British novel. It was an easy walk for about 95% of the way and those who couldn't manage it jumped on the land Rover to return.

 

Peter Harrison (the Pied Piper of birding) encouraged people to head out to the cliff to see the albatrosses at eye level as they returned from their fishing expeditions. It was amazing--though not as amazing as the morning visit to the huge colony where I benefited from Peter's narrative on albatross behavior. He's a true asset.

 

At devils nose, I think the birds got stressed by a lack of crowd control. The Apex birders group seems a bit more aggressive than typical expedition guests; many plant themselves in their preferred spot to take photos and the rest of the group has to clambor around. That makes for some chaos. The trail to get closer to the colony unfortunately was closed when I was halfway there; I can see the wisdom in that if some birds were stressed. 

 

One passenger broke her tibia on the morning walk, sadly. She's staying onboard and plans to have 

surgery when she gets home to South Africa. I've seen several other falls on the muddy, uneven and steep trails we encountered that day. It's definitely an expedition! I'm a novice but will try to add a few images of that day. My video of parent feeding chick seems to be located weirdly. Sorry!

 

[highplanesdrifters]

Oh THANK YOU @FauxNom for the excellent recap.  After talking to others  I wish I had gone there.  

[highplanesdrifters]

Shag Rocks,  South Georgia

 

We were told this was an important place for wildlife.  It did not disappoint.  I am overwhelmed by what we have seen today.

 

Shag Rocks are part of South Georgia.  A large colony of Shags reside there.  Wildlife surrounds the area due to the steep geography and upswelling that occurs.  Upswelling brings nutrients up from the deep cold waters. Chow time ensues. We had calm seas in usually violent waters.  How, how am I this lucky?

 

Shag Rocks

 

 

 

 

Part 1 

Orcas

 

As we approached Shag Rocks Orcas appeared in the distance. Lots of Orcas. Lots and lots of Orcas.The Captain slowed the ship to minimal speed.

 

The Gathering

 

The Aproach

 

 

 

 

 

Stills

 

 

 

 

Get ready 

 

 

 

Let's Ride 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited March 7 by highplanesdrifters

[Port Power]

@highplanesdrifters you are SO lucky!  What a fabulous s experience. 

[Port Power]

@highplanesdrifters you are SO lucky!  What a fabulous s experience. 

[markandjie]

That looks like the pod of Orcas we saw! Maybe they like cruise ships???

[highplanesdrifters]

Just now, markandjie said:

That looks like the pod of Orcas we saw! Maybe they like cruise ships???

 

Thay made me promise to say Hello! 😃

It is clear they enjoy surfing the bow.  There were many more Orcas than pictured. The water dance they did before the surf put Olympic synchronized swimmers to shame. Still have Goose bumps.

[highplanesdrifters]

Shag Rock - Round 2

 

Aftet the Killer Whale show, and BTW, that is how to refer to them scientifically, the show escalated.  The waters and air were full of so many species it was hard to know where to look. One gentleman was called by his wife to come to the othere side of the ship, he said " Leave me alone,  there's too much going on over here, I'm exhausted. 😅 The show went on for hours.

 

Just a few of the species we saw.

Fin whales
Penfuins, Kings & Macaroni 
Fur seals
Orcas
Albatros, Wandering & Black-browed
Prions

Pilot Whales

 

Rare Bonus Round
Tristan Albatros 

Royal Penquin
Hourglass dolphins

Blue Whales

 

The Fin Whales were interspersed with the largest animal on earth, the rare Blue Whale.  We were surrounded by them. Blows as far as they eye could see.  Unheard of calm and mirror sea conditions. 

 

Not the best videos, reflections, etc. Hopefully they will give you a sense of what we saw.
 

 

 

 

 

[highplanesdrifters]

After a few hours at Shag Rock an announcement was made that we would now resume our course to Salisbury Plain, South Georgia.  Everyone left, save for a few. The show didn't stop.  The Hourglass dolphins showed up.  This brought most of the Expedition Staff to the OL.  A first for many. The Tristan Albatros was now easy to identify without all those pesky whales distracting us.  And then a large pod of pilot whales decided to appear.  It's now 4:30 and like the gentleman earlier, I too am exhausted. Stimulation overload.

 

Just a swim by, no close up Mr. DeMile.

 

 

And like @FauxNom pointed out there is a pushy shovey lot on board.