Guam - Santiago Sep. 8 - Oct. 17. Missives from The Andesite Line on Pursuit

[Fletcher]

Very pleased to see you made landfall @highplanesdrifters on Rapa Nui.  Unless you fly in (the very fact you can do that means Easter Island isn't remote) it is always a tricky prospect.  I remember we had the roughest seas ever between Ducie Island and here.  Passengers were doing cartwheels in the restaurant, outside decks were closed, coffee urns thrown to the floor, eggs self-scrambled. And when we got to Easter Island it looked unlikely but the zodiacs coped well and when you turn left into the little landing area the waters calmed down.  For disembarking and embarking passengers they loaded the zodiacs with luggage and never lost a single bag.

[highplanesdrifters]

On 10/10/2024 at 4:19 PM, Rancher Dave said:

Wish we'd been able to pull off being aboard for the current leg, just to see Easter Island. Oh well, in a week (from tomorrow) we will be aboard. 

 

Special note, smoker hooked to truck waiting for me to bring it back on Friday...3 briskets and a dozen sausages thawing to be smoked and eaten in a few days!    

 

Saw the note on requesting special meals...may see about a nice seafood platter one evening. 

 

You're killing me with the smoker list!

[highplanesdrifters]

19 hours ago, Fletcher said:

Very pleased to see you made landfall @highplanesdrifters on Rapa Nui.  Unless you fly in (the very fact you can do that means Easter Island isn't remote) it is always a tricky prospect.  I remember we had the roughest seas ever between Ducie Island and here.  Passengers were doing cartwheels in the restaurant, outside decks were closed, coffee urns thrown to the floor, eggs self-scrambled. And when we got to Easter Island it looked unlikely but the zodiacs coped well and when you turn left into the little landing area the waters calmed down.  For disembarking and embarking passengers they loaded the zodiacs with luggage and never lost a single bag.

 

Thanks @Fletcher.  Love those stories.   

 

Our seas have been a cake walk.  Swells in he harbor....not so much.

Word is, a boat going into Hanga Roa flipped while we were there.  I can just see the lost luggage claims.😅

[highplanesdrifters]

Hanga Roa it is!

 

After an hours plus time the Expedition team found a way in. Ditched the tenders, and negotiated with the locals to use the harbor. We were required to have local "guides" on the zodiacs.  It seems only two were available, local fisherman. With the giant swell and only two zodiacs running things took a bit of time. 

 

 

A other crazy ride.

 

 

We made it.

 

 

 

[highplanesdrifters]

Rano Kau

This massive crater is almost a mile across and has its own micro climate. It last erupted approximately 180,000 years ago. It's a gobsmacker.

 

 

Many locals sneak in to harvest figs, berries and other edibles that grow along the shore of the freshwater lake. Long hike down. Bet Birdman (next post) can do it!

 

 

Rapamycin, an antibiotic and immuno suppressant drug was discovered here.  

 

 

 

 

 

[highplanesdrifters]

Rapa Nui is a mystical mysterious place that captivates you. I tried to arrive with as few pre conceived notions or expectations as possible. It will take awhile to process all that we have seen and experienced.  I will carry this place in my psyche for quite awhile. 

 

No written and little oral history exists on the island, so it's impossible to be certain regarding the undocumented period.

The world is ripe with 'expert' speculation on what, when, and how events happened. Any satirical digs are meant for the 'experts'.

 

Recent DNA evidence purportedly disputes long held archeologists theories about population collapse.  Next year will bring new theories, and so on, and on.

 

Orango

TANGATA-MANU aka Birdman cult.

Over 480 birdman petroglyphs have been found on the island, mostly around Orango. A nice little welcome center greets you to the site on the windswept cliffs.

 

 

Breathtaking scenery.

 

 

 

It is not known when the cult started. It may have run concurrently with the Moai period.  This tradition/cult seems to have been quashed by the buzz kill missionaries.

 

 

 

 

Birdman competition story - as told by our local guide. You can read lots of other stories by experts. I like this one:

 

Each clan trained contestants to descend the 1,000-foot cliff  into the ocean, then swim to Moto Nui, procure an egg from the Frigate bird or Sooty Tern, swim back, climb the cliff and present it to his clans Chief. If the egg was unbroken that clan ruled the island for the next year.   Piece of cake!  Redbull tried to sponsor as similar event...no kidding.

 

Moto Nui, the island competitors swam too.

 

 

To the victor goes the Lilly White virgin.  A young beauty was chosen while the men folk were training.  She got to live in a small dark smelly hut for three months so her skin would be whiter.  They only had SPF 4 sunscreen back then.  The new couple lived happily ever after. I think they made a movie.

 

 

I found these structures to be a cross between Viking and Anazazi dwellings.  Perhaps the two groups met and made their way south to create this unusual place.😄

 

 

I find it hard to believe that this was a place for permanent inhabitants.  No easy access to water or food with constant wind.

 

 

 

There is a baby carved on this rock, lower left. Archeologists believe it is a birthing chair.  Ladies, care to chime in?

 

 

It is speculated that many contestants died in the contest. If the dangerous cliff and swift waters didn't get them, the sharks did.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[highplanesdrifters]

FWP - solved

 

[markandjie]

We visited Easter Island via air from Santiago shortly before we boarded the Quest back in 2015. Spent a couple of nights there, I believe, which was way more than enough. It's an incredible place to visit, but also quite small and easy to see it all in a single long day. Couple of fun stories:

 

We met a couple at the airport on arrival that was also staying at our hotel. They were also boarding the Quest, but they had 3 nights in Easter Island not two. Well, turns out there was a ground crew strike in Chile that started at midnight the night we were flying back to Santiago. Thus we (barely!) landed in time, but their flight a day later was cancelled! With only a few days until the departure of the Quest they had to go wait at the airport all day every day and try to get on the military flights that were slowly ferrying people off the island. Fortunately they made it, though if memory serves they had to catch up to the Quest at a later stop, as did many other folks.

 

While on Easter Island our son, then 7 years old and in 2nd grade, was able to facetime with his classmates in front of a Moai statue. It was quite a story around school, and an adorable photo to boot!

 

[highplanesdrifters]

8 hours ago, markandjie said:

We visited Easter Island via air from Santiago shortly before we boarded the Quest back in 2015. Spent a couple of nights there, I believe, which was way more than enough. It's an incredible place to visit, but also quite small and easy to see it all in a single long day. Couple of fun stories:

 

We met a couple at the airport on arrival that was also staying at our hotel. They were also boarding the Quest, but they had 3 nights in Easter Island not two. Well, turns out there was a ground crew strike in Chile that started at midnight the night we were flying back to Santiago. Thus we (barely!) landed in time, but their flight a day later was cancelled! With only a few days until the departure of the Quest they had to go wait at the airport all day every day and try to get on the military flights that were slowly ferrying people off the island. Fortunately they made it, though if memory serves they had to catch up to the Quest at a later stop, as did many other folks.

 

While on Easter Island our son, then 7 years old and in 2nd grade, was able to facetime with his classmates in front of a Moai statue. It was quite a story around school, and an adorable photo to boot!

 

 

All great stories. Thanks so much for sharing. 

 

Along those lines....

We had an overnight at Easter Island.  One couple chose to spend the night ON Rapa Nui.  No way I would have.  We barely made it ashore.  😅

[BioInfoLib]

4 hours ago, highplanesdrifters said:

 

All great stories. Thanks so much for sharing. 

 

Along those lines....

We had an overnight at Easter Island.  One couple chose to spend the night ON Rapa Nui.  No way I would have.  We barely made it ashore.  😅

On the Seabourn friends FB page I saw the sunrise photos from the overnight on Rapa Nui and wondered if it was you 🤣 The photos were fantastic and it seemed like a real adventure. Did they do hotel? Tent? I have no idea what facilities are like there.

[markandjie]

1 hour ago, BioInfoLib said:

Did they do hotel? Tent? I have no idea what facilities are like there.

 

There are some reasonably nice boutique hotels. Service was not great.

[highplanesdrifters]

9 hours ago, BioInfoLib said:

On the Seabourn friends FB page I saw the sunrise photos from the overnight on Rapa Nui and wondered if it was you 🤣 The photos were fantastic and it seemed like a real adventure. Did they do hotel? Tent? I have no idea what facilities are like there.

 

It sounds fabulous.

Not me. It would require getting up before sunrise, putting clothes on, and going out in public.  I just don't have those skill sets anymore.🤣

[highplanesdrifters]

Lots of Moai to come. I'll cover the sites that we saw. On paper it gets a little samey samey.  In person each site is worth a visit. The island is small and you can cover a lot in one or two days.  I could easily make a case for staying longer and viewing in a more relaxed manner.

 

 

Tongariki

 

 

The most impressive restoration.

It was done by a Japanese company to show off and market their cranes.  

 

 

A nice collection of Pukao (man buns) made of red scoria.  The scoria came from inside the crater.  Puako was thought to signify importance. It was a custom of high ranking men to have long hair and tie it on top.of their heads.  Just like today.😅

 

 

Lichen is eating away at many of the statues and is becoming a big problem. They have recently been treating some of the statues. A work in progress.  There is also discussion about covering or enclosing them.  Money and more research is needed.  Mostly money.

 

 

Details showing the arms with very long fingernails.  Thought to show importance because they didn't work and could grow them.

 

 

Different rocks for carving and building.

 

 

Leftover bits.

 

 

What a scene!

 

 

 

[highplanesdrifters]

Hanga Roa, Rapa Nui
Come for the Moai, stay for the ceviche!
Charming town with great food and a few fun tourist establishments. Somehow this island is not on everyone's radar although it should be.  Uncrowded and delightful. 

 

 

 

Restaurant row.

 

We dined overlooking this inlet watching the turtles bobbing about. 

 

 

A very tidy welcoming place.

 

 

 

 

In town and few blocks up from restaurants shopping was found.

 

 

Guard dogs.

 

 

Many of the "Artisan Markets" where just stalls of junk from Asia.  I did come across this delightful fellow.   And yes, bought a little painting.😁

 

 

The goods in the individual shops were mostly decent quality and very inexpensive. 

 

 

 

[shark b8]

Astounding, wonderful reporting.  We readers are in awe.

[highplanesdrifters]

13 hours ago, shark b8 said:

Astounding, wonderful reporting.  We readers are in awe.

 

You're not so shabby yourself!😄

[kej1]

I am in awe too!  What wonderful photos and reporting.  Now I’m thinking of adding this to our 2025 pursuit  trip……what a fabulous trip you are enjoying!  So happy you made it to Easter island.

[highplanesdrifters]

Awww, thanks! Remember it was your original report that helped so much with this trip!

 

Easter Island was definitely worth the time and effort.  Be warned though,  there are a lot of sea days, which I really enjoy.  The tough part was the 10 time changes from Guam. Most occurred on the second leg. Brutal.  I'll be thrilled never to see this dreaded card again. 😅

 

 

[highplanesdrifters]

Rapa Nui was packed with sensory experiences. Another 'Dinner Under the Stars' evening. Very enjoyable, but not nearly as over the top as the first.

 

Let's start with a Bellini!

Sommelier Daniel and Bar manager Anne at the ready.

 

 

The menu.

 

 

Joseph, Asst. Sommelier torturing us.

 

 

Caviar in the Clouds.

 

 

Fois Gras.

 

 

 

At this point Captain left the Hanga Roa harbor heading to the north side of the island.  This would give us a lee for the night.  So kind and thoughtful. Except he didn't warn Daniel that leaving might be a but bumpy.  😅  Decorations went flying, glasses spilling.  Daniel ran to grab the decanted Cheval and saved it.  Whew!

 

 

Rolling ball lights safely tucked in chairs.

 

 

Back to dinner.

 

French Onion soup....real.french onion soup.   I could have stopped here.  I should have stopped here.

 

 

Lobster ravioli, open face.

 

 

The reds.

 

 

 

Sole

 

 

Nail in the Coffin time.

 

 

There was also a port. Coffin is secured.

 

 

Our living Moai. 😄

 

 

Lupi made an appearance and delighted us with this preformance. 

 

 

Time to sleep.  We have another big day on Rapa Nui tomorrow.

 

Note to self, don't sign up for a big evening before a big excursion.  Note to self, pay attention to your previous notes.

 

 

 

 

[BioInfoLib]

8 minutes ago, highplanesdrifters said:

Rapa Nui was packed with sensory experiences. Another 'Dinner Under the Stars' evening. Very enjoyable, but not nearly as over the top as the first.

 

Let's start with a Bellini!

Sommelier Daniel and Bar manager Anne at the ready.

 

 

The menu.

 

 

Joseph, Asst. Sommelier torturing us.

 

 

Caviar in the Clouds.

 

 

Fois Gras.

 

 

 

At this point Captain left the Hanga Roa harbor heading to the north side of the island.  This would give us a lee for the night.  So kind and thoughtful. Except he didn't warn Daniel that leaving might be a but bumpy.  😅  Decorations went flying, glasses spilling.  Daniel ran to grab the decanted Cheval and saved it.  Whew!

 

 

Rolling ball lights safely tucked in chairs.

 

 

Back to dinner.

 

French Onion soup....real.french onion soup.   I could have stopped here.  I should have stopped here.

 

 

Lobster ravioli, open face.

 

 

The reds.

 

 

 

Sole

 

 

Nail in the Coffin time.

 

 

There was also a port. Coffin is secured.

 

 

Our living Moai. 😄

 

 

Lupi made an appearance and delighted us with this preformance. 

 

 

Time to sleep.  We have another big day on Rapa Nui tomorrow.

 

Note to self, don't sign up for a big evening before a big excursion.  Note to self, pay attention to your previous notes.

 

 

 

 

Love Lupi and Joseph. Missing the Pursuit a lot right now ☹️

[highplanesdrifters]

2 hours ago, BioInfoLib said:

Love Lupi and Joseph. Missing the Pursuit a lot right now ☹️

 

I will be feeling your pain in a few days time.

[BioInfoLib]

26 minutes ago, highplanesdrifters said:

 

I will be feeling your pain in a few days time.

☹️☹️☹️

[kej1]

Another great dinner.  I’ve also been missing Pursuit while following along @highplanesdrifters journey!  Thank you again for bringing it to life!

[highplanesdrifters]

We are on our fourth sea day.  Oh they are heavenly.  Sun is out today and the sea is flat.  A few sightings of dolphins, whales, and Albatros.  Sightings should increase as we near Selkirk island and the Humbolt Current. 

 

There are some really lovely people on board and my face hurts from laughing.  We debark on the 17th in Santiago.  I've done a pre pack so the last day can be spent lazing about.

 

In the meantime........

 

Parties were thrown, hangovers were had.

 

Juan, Patrick, Claudio.   What a team!

 

Passing storm

 

Expedition team theatre production, big fun.  The best worst play ever.😅

 

 

Patrick the videographer picked up a fancy ukulele in Papeete. Juan jamming on bongos. They're everywhere!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Rancher Dave]

On 10/10/2024 at 3:45 PM, highplanesdrifters said:

 

You're killing me with the smoker list!

That was an all night project last night. Boy am I worn out now.  Only 2 more sleeps before heading to SCL and a couple of sleeps there before we board. 

 

Hope you are enjoying the cruise...would love to have been able to stay on from Guam on thru your cruise and the one we now are going on.